HER JOURNEY, HER VOICE … The Evolution of Textured Hair and Beyond
“… There are so many different types of curly hair from so many different ethnic backgrounds. I wish there were more products that were specific to not just what texture curls a person has, but the porosity of your hair, the thickness and density of your hair, and the length of your hair.” ...... SSI Monthly Category & Consumer Insights – Her Journey, Her Voice…The evolution of texture and beyond – March 2019 Table of Contents
p.3 • Executive Summary Summary & Purpose of Study p.5 • Methodology SSI Qualitative Research p.6 • Milestones A Timeline of the Evolution p.12 • A Historical Perspective A Look Back at Styles & Trends p.22 • Her Journey, Her Voice Insights into Her Opinions & Preferences p.55 • Her Journey, Her Choice Insights into Her Shopping Behavior p.66 • Impact on Buying Trends Consumer Product Choice Trends p.82 • The Journey Continues How will the Textured Hair Continue to Evolve p.85 • Respondent Profiles Demographics
...... Executive Summary
• Over the past decade the textured hair landscape has shifted dramatically. Where once it was the norm for textured hair to be chemically altered (most commonly straightened using relaxers) today the majority of African American and multi racial women are taking a more natural approach. • This shift is driven by consumers increasingly embracing and celebrating their natural textures, as well as rejecting products containing harmful chemicals and other ingredients which they have learned are damaging to their hair and harmful to their health. • “Beautiful” and “healthy” were commonly used by by women with natural hair to describe their hair, with many indicating that they would not have described their hair the same way 5-10 years ago. • While natural styles have moved in and out of fashion in the past (eg Afros in the 70’s), most consumers believe the current popularity of natural hair is more than a passing trend; textured hair is here to stay and they see it continuing to rise as more women decide to transition away from chemical processing, and the next generation grow up surrounded by the message that all textures are beautiful. • Gen Z women (born since 1996) are less likely to have ever used a relaxer or texturizer compared to their mothers and grandmothers. • However, the shift to natural textures is not a complete abandonment of straight styles; two thirds of women with natural hair said that they sometimes choose to wear straight styles (eg straightened with flat irons) and around one third said that they might consider using relaxer again in the future. For these women style versatility and convenience / ease of styling are considerations. • As natural styles have evolved, the multicultural haircare market has changed considerably, with an abundance of new brands and products aimed at helping women manage their natural hair. For many women there has been a huge learning . . . . curve. . as .they . work. . out . how . to. care. .for .their . natural. . hair,. . and . which. . products. . . are . most . .effective for them. 3 Executive Summary, cont.…
• Overall, most feel that the currently available product assortment fully addresses textured hair needs now and into the future but some identified gaps including; products containing unnatural or undesirable ingredients, addressing problem areas (eg dryness, frizz) without having to resort to a cocktail of different products, and addressing the specific needs of different textures (and ALL textures). • While brands often seek to maximize their target audience by trying to cater for multiple hair types or textures, consumers are saying that they want products that are specifically designed for their texture. • This is more important than more general claims relating to hair state (eg for natural hair), or ethnicity, particularly for younger consumers. • SSI Consumer Research discovered that Naturalistas believe there is a gap in the current market offerings of products that are customized for their specific hair type and not just “natural vs. non natural” • 2018 IRI results of SSI’s customized Hair Care database reveals that texture focused products are growing 11% in a total marketplace growing only 2%. • Merchandising based on hair care needs and characteristics seems increasingly inevitable.
...... 4 SSI Consumer Research Methodology
• SSI conducted consumer research with 600 African American and multi-racial women to gain insight consumer attitudes, perceptions and needs surrounding textured hair. Topics included: • Chemically altered and natural textures and the reasons consumers choose them • Non chemical straightening • Perceptions of beauty • Generational differences in textured hair attitudes and behavior • The evolution of natural hair styles • How texture impacts product choice
• SSI Consumer Research is supported, enhanced and complemented by quantitative IRI syndicated results.
...... Milestones in the Evolution of Textured Hair
...... 6 Evolution of Textured Hair…. EARLY PIONEERS
1909 - Garret A. Morgan invents the Relaxer 1919 - Sarah Spencer Washington 1902 - Annie Turnbo Malone Cosmetic entrepreneur, Sarah Spencer began with a salon before Garrett A. Morgan, creates the relaxer started The Apex Beauty Products Company that encompassed a The Mother of the Black Hair Care Industry and from a solution he invented to reduce st variety of products, from pressing oils, hot combs, 1 Female Millionaire founded Poro Beauty needle friction on wool in 1909. He Products. Featured Product: “The Great and pomades for hair to perfumes, beauty creams, and lipsticks. Wonderful Hair Grower” (a sage and egg rinse), immediately founded the G.A. Morgan The Apex empire included eleven Apex Beauty Colleges in the distributed through door to door sales. Hair Refining Company, United States, with schools in foreign countries training 45,000 plus students to sell her products 1900 1920
1906 - Madam CJ Walker 1917 – Annie Malone Poro College Madam CJ Walker began her career as an Annie Malone founded and opened Poro agent for Poro Beauty Products but then College in St. Louis. The first educational developed her own hair-care line, selling institution in the United States dedicated to the The Walker System door-to-door with a study and teaching of black cosmetology. The sales force of 45,000 agents. school reportedly graduated over 75,000 agents ...... world . -wide,. .including . . the .Caribbean. . Evolution of Textured Hair…. ENDURING LEGACY
1957 - The Luster’s Products Company Fred Luster Sr. Founded the company 1947 - Bronner Bros. from his profession as a hairstylist Dr. Nathaniel H. Bronner, Sr. and his and creating products for his clients. brother, Arthur E. Bronner, Sr. The ‘Luster’s Style Cream’, hair founded the Bronner Bros. Company straightening cream, was one of the and the first Bronner Bros. Trade first products. Today, Luster Products Show. is the largest Black owned hair care company in the U.S. 1940 1960
1960 - Supreme Beauty Products 1954 – The Johnson Products Company George E. Johnson Sr. founded the John H. Johnson, the founder of company with his wife Joan. Its first product was Ultra Wave, a hair relaxer for Johnson Publishing Company and men. In 1957, Ultra Sheen was introduced Ebony Magazine, also owns as a revolutionary in-home hair Supreme Beauty and uses the straightener for women along with hair magazine to introduce and and scalp maintenance . consistently promote Duke – the first greaseless men’s pomade.
...... Evolution of Textured Hair…. THE ERA OF AFROS & WIGS Late 1964 – Duke and Raveen Koreans Enter the Market 1973 – Sta Sof Fro Supreme Beauty Koreans got their start in the black Products successfully hair care business through wig sales Cornell McBride & promoted Duke for and manufacturing. YH Trade and Therman McKenzie, men and Raveen for Wig Manufacturing was successful registered women in Ebony & Jet between 1965-1978, in exporting pharmacists, magazine throughout more than $100 Million in wig established M&M the Afro Era. sales. The business structure Products Company helped set up many Korean and launched the entrepreneurs in the sale of wigs product they created and over the past five decades, wig to address the stores have evolved to become full natural tendency of fledged beauty supply stores where combed out Afros to hair for weaves and extensions shrink after two 1960 represent the top selling products. hours. 1975
Late 1965 – Afro Sheen
One of Johnson 1967 – The Luster Natural 5 Product’s best-known product lines, was Luster Products released in the late launches a line of 1960s, at a time when products designed to the "Afro" became a soften and give sheen popular hairstyle for to afros. One of the African Americans products lives on to become Luster’s Pink Oil Lotion...... Evolution of Textured Hair…. A NEW FOCUS
1981– Soft Sheen launched Care Free Curl Soft Sheen capitalized on the popularity of the Jheri Curl by creating a curl styling process that allowed salon owners to finish in two hours (rather than eight), increasing customer turnover and creating a need for a broad line of maintenance products. 1977 – Creation of the Jheri Curl Robert William Redding was a chemist and hairstylist. He created a permanent wave solution named The Jheri Curl. 1975 1985
Late 70’s-Early 80’s – No-Lye Relaxers Launched To address the harshness associated with Lye 1979 - Pro-line Curly Kit Launched based relaxer, No-Lye Relaxer were introduced Pro-Line, founded in 1970 by Comer Cottrell, to the marketplace by top manufacturers. launched the "Curly Kit“. The “Jheri Curl” cost $75 in salons. The Pro-Line team developed a method that allowed “Jheri Curls” to be produced at home from their $7.50 kit.
...... Evolution of Textured Hair…. MULTI-CULTURAL LEANS TO MULTI-TEXTURED
Bone Straight Relaxers In the 1990s, were choosing straight 2012 MultiCultural Endcap in Target styles more often than they are now. Target conducted a test with Multi-Cultural hair Some better hair straighteners today care brands specifically created to address have ceramic coated heating parts, texture management. This brand exposure which harm the hair less, and heat aligned with population shifts and the needs of up faster than non-ceramic coated Target guests. That test did so well that they heating parts. More expensive hair expanded the program and had become the straighteners use ionic and infra incubator for “natural hair or textured” brand red technology, which helps to keep entries into retail chains. To date, Target 1990s moisture and oils in the hair, and to remains one of the fastest growing retailers in 2018 stop static and frizz. this category due to these adjustments.
2018 Growth of Black Owned Textured Hair Care Companies 1996 – Taliah Waajid The influx of brands There were no products in the created by Black Owned market place that catered to the Companies has Black specific needs of chemical free hair Girl increased and as of Magic in the 90s, so Taliah created Black 2018 now represent Earth Products™. In 2014, she went 15% of category sales from that to starting the World but over 50% of sales Natural Hair, Health & Beauty for texutured hair care Show™. It has grown to 40,000 only. attendees from around the world...... A Historical Perspective on Styles & Trends
...... 12 Images of Evolution – 1800’s
I SSUES • Dullness • Extreme Dryness • Scalp Concerns (including dandruff, hair loss & ring worms)
T OOLS • Styled by hand • Little access to combs & brushes • Used sheep carding combs • Pressing comb introduced in 1845
P RODUCTS • Plant Oils • Butter • Animals fat – Lard or Bacon Grease DRY HAND STYLING After centuries of slavery and a lost culture, many traditional African techniques and styles including intricate braids, plaits and twists were 1800’s forgotten or simply prohibited by slave owners. Many slaves wore a scarf, masking unkempt hair or scalp disease. Freed women styled their hair in pin-ups with undefined kinky hair. Sources: https://thirstyroots.com/black-hairstyles-of-1800%E2%80%99s.html ...... https://abagond.wordpress.com/2010/02/11/black. . . . -womens-hair-a-brief-history-1400-1900/ Images of Evolution – 1920’s
I SSUES • Growth • Dullness • Extreme Dryness • Scalp Concerns (including dandruff, hair loss & ring worms)
T OOLS • Hot Pressing Comb • Iron Curlers • Metal Rollers
P RODUCTS • Pressing Hair Dress & Oils • Scalp Oils • Lye to Straighten • Hot Pressing Comb and Petrolatum STRAIGTENED HAIR Based Oils The pressing comb increases popularity. Many women 1920’s imitate popular White styles with sleek, ultra shiny, pressed curls or waves.
...... Images of Evolution – 1940’s
I SSUES • Growth • Dullness • Dryness • Scalp Concerns (including dandruff, and hair loss)
T OOLS • Hot Pressing Comb • Iron Curlers • Metal Rollers • Metal Pins
P RODUCTS • Pressing Hair Dress & Oils • Scalp Oils HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR & PIN UP GIRLS • Lye to Straighten Pressed and lye straightened styles continue to dominate among • Petrolatum Based Oils 1940’s Black women continuing to follow popular styles in the general American culture, like the “Pin-Up”. Short pressed styles also become popular...... Images of Evolution – 1960’s
I SSUES • Breakage/Growth • Dullness • Dryness • Scalp Concerns (including dandruff, hair loss
K EY T OOLS • Hot Pressing Comb • Iron Curlers • Metal Rollers • Plastic Rollers • Metal Pins
P RODUCTS VOLUMINIOUS HEAT STYLES & PIN UPS • Conditioners Black women continue to grow into the spotlight of • Pressing Hair Dress & Oils 1960’s American culture and in Black-owned publications, adapting • Scalp Oils to styles of mainstream culture. Straighten styles dominate • Lye Relaxers with but with lesser shine and combed out curls. • Petrolatum Based Oils
...... Images of Evolution – 1970’s I SSUES • Breakage/Growth • Dullness • Dryness • Scalp Disease (including dandruff, hair loss)
K EY T OOLS • P ICk • Blow Out Comb • Hot Pressing Comb • Iron Curlers • Foam Rollers • Metal Pins
P RODUCTS • Conditioners • Softeners I’M BLACK AND I’M PROUD • Oil Sheen On a mission to reclaim their cultural and African • Conditioning Spray heritage, many women wore their natural textures • Pressing Hair Dress & Oils 1970’s • picked or blown out into an afro. However, Scalp Oils • Lye Relaxers straightened styles are still very popular. • Petrolatum Based Oils ...... Images of Evolution – 1980’s
I SSUES • Breakage/Growth • Dullness • Dryness • Scalp Disease (including dandruff, hair loss)
K EY T OOLS • Pick • Blow Out Comb • Hot Pressing Comb • Hot Iron Curlers • Foam Rollers
P RODUCTS • Relaxers and Permanent Waves - Activators and Curl Moisturizers PERMANENT CURLS, CURLS, CURLS • Conditioners The Jheri Curl becomes popular with men and women • Oil Sheen • preferring a looser, more manageable curl. Voluminous, Conditioning Spray 1980’s • Pressing Hair Dress & Oils yet loose natural curls also make a debut. Straightened • Scalp Oils hair is still very popular and considered more mainstream. • No lye relaxers • Petrolatum Based Oils ...... Images of Evolution – 1990’s
I SSUES • Breakage/Growth • Dullness • Dryness • Scalp Concerns (including dandruff, hair loss)
K EY T OOLS • Electric Flat Irons • Iron Curlers
P RODUCTS • Conditioners Bone-straight styles using a no-lye relaxer are center • Oil Sheen stage in Black fashion while also an increasing • Wax for locs 1990’s popularity braids, locs and Afrocentric style. Versatility • Conditioning Spray and innovations in hairstyles begin to increase as Black • Spritz women continue to carve out their own cultural • Gels identity. • No-lye relaxers • Braiding Weave • Petrolatum Based Oils ...... Images of Evolution – 2000’s I SSUES • Heat Damage • Breakage/Growth • Dullness • Dryness • Scalp Concerns (including dandruff, and traction alopecia)
K EY T OOLS • Electric Flat Irons • Iron Curlers • Wigs
P RODUCTS • Thermal Protection Spray • Edge Gel • Conditioners • Oil Sheen PROTECTIVE STYLES AND VERSATILITY • Polishers Long straight extensions become hugely popular as women • Wax for locs 2000’s continue to value their ability to be versatile, many wearing relaxed • Conditioning Spray styles and braids. The Natural movement kicks off in 2009 with • No-lye relaxer on the market more women experimenting with their natural textures. • Braiding Weave • Non-Petrolatum Based Oils ...... Images of Evolution – 2018 I SSUES • Lack of Curl Definition • Breakage/Growth • Dullness • Dryness • Edge Maintenance • Scalp Concerns (dandruff and traction alopecia)
K EY T OOLS • Hands • Wide Tooth Comb • Denman Brush • Sleep Bonnets • Edge Brushes • Natural Stylers (Puff Cuffs, Pins, Sleeves, etc…)
P RODUCTS • Multi-Cultural, Multi-Textured • Products free of Sulfates, Parabens, etc… THE NATURAL PHENOMEMON • Increase in Maintenance, Shampoo and Natural hair becomes the norm, while fewer Black women Conditioner NOW chemically straighten their hair. Black women continue to • Leave-In Conditioner 2018 innovate, creating more natural styles and experiment with • Curl Defining Cremes or Gels cuts and colors. Braids and Lace-front wigs are popular as • Edge Gels protective styles. • Braiding Weave ...... • . Non. .-Petrolatum . Based Oils Her Journey, Her Voice Insights into Her Opinions & Preferences
...... 22 Hair state: Chemical alteration
My hair texture is I have NEVER CURRENTLY chemically chemically altered my altered hair texture (i.e 18% always been natural) Of surveyed African American and 18% Multi Racial women have NEVER chemically altered their hair texture (eg by using relaxers or texturizers)
However 82% said they are currently wearing their hair natural
I have PREVIOUSLY chemically altered my hair texture, but am currently natural 64%
...... 23 Q: Is your hair texture currently, or has it ever been, chemically altered (eg relaxer, texturizer)? Base: total (n=600) Generational shift in chemical alteration
9% 18% 18% 21%
CURRENTLY chemically altered Although the shift towards natural hair textures, and away 64% from chemical alteration is PREVIOUSLY 61% apparent across all age chemically altered 67% 62% but now natural generations, young women are more likely to have never used NEVER chemically relaxer than their mothers and altered grandmothers
26% 21% 14% 17%
Gen Z Millennials Gen X Baby Boomers
...... 24 Q: Is your hair texture currently, or has it ever been, chemically altered (eg relaxer, texturizer)? Base: total (n=600) How long have women been wearing hair in current state?
56% of women who previously chemically altered their hair, but have now transitioned to natural, made the change within the past 5 years.
For many women who are still chemically altering their hair texture, this is a long held style; 47% said they have been doing so for more than 10 years. However interestingly, one quarter of women with chemically altered hair said that their hair has been in this state for less than a year.
Natural (but previously chemically altered) Chemically altered
Less than 1 year 10% Less than 1 year 25%
1-3 years 23% 1-3 years 10%
4-5 years 23% 4-5 years 6%
6-7 years 13% 6-7 years 6%
8-10 years 11% 8-10 years 7%
More than 10 years 18% More than 10 years 47%
...... 25 Q: You said “_____”. How long has your hair texture been in this current state? Base: PREVIOUSLY chemically altered but currently natural (n=383), CURRENTLY chemically altered (n=106) Texture timeline: Natural texture evolution Current survey estimate: 82% natural 90%
80%
70%
60%
50% Pre 2009 estimate: 30% natural 40% Changed from chemically altered to natural texture 30%
20%
10% Always been natural
0% Pre 2009 2009-2011 2012-2013 2014-2015 2016-2018 2018-2019
...... 26 Q: You said “I have previously chemically altered my hair texture, but am currently natural”. How long has your hair texture been in this current state? Base: total sample (n=600) Why do consumers choose their hair state?
• I love my natural • Healthier for hair and • Easy to manage hair texture for personal health • Fast / minimal • Easy to manage • Hair was damaged by styling needed chemical processing • Don’t want to • I love my hair and the • I prefer a straight damage hair natural look look • It’s “mine” • Easy to maintain / manage • Embracing ethnicity
NEVER chemically altered chemically NEVER • To let hair grow /
breathe CURRENTLY chemically altered chemically CURRENTLY PREVIOUSLY chemically altered chemically PREVIOUSLY • Less expensive ...... 27 Q: Why do you choose to wear your hair in its current state? Base: total sample (n=600) Many women with natural hair also enjoy wearing straight styles
Do you ever choose to wear temporary straight styles?
Natural women choose straight looks: • To mix up their look or when they feel like something different. • For a special event or occasion (eg going No out, job interview, formal event) 32% • Some do it often, others only occasionally • Some natural women prefer a straight look, but do not want to use chemical Yes relaxers • Weather plays a role; some women do 68% not straighten if its hot/humid. Others said they choose straight styles in hot weather as their curly hair is too hot • Wigs are sometimes used for convenience – if they do not want to “do” their hair • To get a trim or check length ...... 28 Q: As a woman with natural hair, do you ever choose to wear hair in a temporary straight style? (ie achieved without using relaxer, eg wig, heat, keratin) Base: natural hair (n=494) Non-chemical straightening
Heat straightening (ie flat irons) is the most popular method used by African American women for creating straight styles in their natural hair
Heat straightening 75%
Blow out 46%
Wig / weave 38%
Keratin treatment 8%
Other 1%
...... 29 Q: What method/s do you use to create a straight look? Base: women with natural hair who sometimes straighten hair (non-chemical) (n=336) Millennials are the most likely consumers to straighten their natural hair
74% of millennials with natural hair said that they sometimes choose to wear it straight
83% Of those who straighten use heat straightening techniques
...... 30 Most naturals won’t go back to relaxer, but some would consider it
Would you ever consider relaxing your hair in future? 65% Of women who currently have natural hair, said they would not consider using a relaxer again Yes in future 15%
No Women who would consider switching from natural hair 65% back to relaxer commonly mentioned: Maybe • Wanting to change or mix up their style • Frustration with managing natural hair 20% • Enjoy having straight hair • May go back to relaxer when their hair condition has improved
...... 31 Q: Would you ever consider relaxing your hair in future? Base: natural hair (n=494) “I wish I could get the relaxed results without the relaxed issues. If something milder would be developed, I could see using it”
“I will never relax my hair because of the chemicals and I love my natural hair the way it is.”
...... 32 Women with natural hair who temporarily straighten it, and those who have previously chemically altered their texture are most likely to consider using relaxers again in future
Would you ever consider relaxing your hair in future?
13% 15% 24% 22%
Maybe 57% 82% 74% 62% No Yes
20% 16% 11% 5% Temporarily straightens hair (non- Does not straighten Have never chemically altered texture Previously chemically altered but now chemical) natural ...... 33 Q: Would you ever consider relaxing your hair in future? Base: natural hair (n=494) Many women with chemically altered hair, have tried, or would consider, going natural
Have you, or would you, consider going natural?
I have been natural before but I would NOT consider going went back to chemically altering I would consider going natural natural my hair 36% 31% 33%
WHY? Natural hair was too difficult Healthier and fewer chemicals, but Don’t like the look, and seems too to manage or maintain need education, reassurance, and difficult to care for tools to manage
...... 34 Q: Have you ever, or would you, consider going natural? Base: currently have chemically altered hair texture (n=106) How do women describe their hair? Surveyed African American and multi racial women predominantly used positive language when describing their hair
Beautiful 43% Healthy 40% Beautiful Manageable 37% Healthy & Dry 32% Manageable Strong 30% Were the most commonly chosen descriptors. However Reflects my personality 26% common problem areas (dry, frizzy) were also mentioned Frizzy 23% Stylish 19% Hard to manage 17% Nappy 17% Damaged 17% Problematic edges 12% Wild 11% In transition 9% ...... 35 Q: How would you describe your hair? ((Please select up to 5) . Base: total sample (n=600) Hair state impacts on how women perceive their hair
Women who have always worn their hair in its natural texture were the most likely to describe it as “beautiful” (52%), “healthy” (50%), and “stylish” (25%) and less likely to use terms like “dry” (16%), “nappy” (8%), “damaged” (6%) or “problematic edges” (3%).
Women with chemically altered texture were the most likely to describe their hair as “manageable” (43%), but also “damaged” (26%).
Those who are now natural but have previously chemically altered their hair were the most likely group to suggest that their hair reflects their personality (29%) but also more commonly described it as “frizzy” (26%) or “nappy” (19%)
52% NEVER chemically altered PREVIOUSLY chemically altered but now natural CURRENTLY chemically altered 50%
43% 43% 41% 38% 36% 35% 35% 31% 31% 29% 29% 27% 26% 26% 25% 24% 22% 22% 20% 19% 18% 19%18% 18% 16% 16% 17% 14% 14% 13% 13% 12% 12% 10% 9% 8% 8% 6% 3% 5%
...... 36 Q: How would you describe your hair? ((Please select up to 5) . Base: total sample (n=600) Hair perceptions by hair state
NEVER PREVIOUSLY CURRENTLY chemically chemically chemically altered altered altered
Beautiful, 52% Beautiful, 43% Manageable, 43%
Healthy, 50% Healthy, 41% Dry, 38% Top 5 descriptors Manageable, 35% Manageable, 36% Beautiful, 31%
Strong, 29% Dry, 35% Strong, 27%
Stylish, 25% Strong, 31% Damaged, 26%
Would they have said the Yes Yes same 5-10 Yes 56% 63% years ago? 79% ...... 37 Q: How would you describe your hair? ((Please select up to 5) / Q: You described your hair as “ __, __, __, __, __, ” Would you have described it the same way 5-10 years ago? Base: total sample (n=600) How has their perception changed over the past 5-10 years?
NEVER PREVIOUSLY CURRENTLY chemically chemically chemically altered altered altered
• Only 21% would have described • 44% would have described their hair • 37% would have described their hair their hair differently 5-10 years ago differently 5-10 years ago differently 5-10 years ago • Changes include: • Changes include: • Changes include: • Changing attitudes to natural • Hair is now healthier and less • More damaged now because hair in society damaged as no longer using of chemical use (relaxer and • Wearing hair in a different relaxer dye / bleach) style to to 5-10 years ago (eg • Have learnt to take better care of • Improved condition because of locs, big chop) hair using better products • Better products or more • Greater comfort, acceptance and • Health and age related knowledge know about how to love for their natural hair changes care for natural hair • Health and age related changes • Health and age related changes “I have learned to love my natural hair. “I would have never called it With the time, patience and the right “Relaxing it has made it dryer over beautiful in its natural state years natural products to properly take care of it, time” ago” it is easy to manage” ...... 38 Q: You described your hair as “ __, __, __, __, __, ” Would you have described it the same way 5-10 years ago? If no, what has changed? Base: total sample (n=600) Gen Z women tended to express more negative perceptions of their hair Although many Gen Z women described their hair as “beautiful” (47%) and are more likely to see it as a personality expression (32%) compared to older generations, they were also more likely to choose less positive terms such as “frizzy” (32%), “hard to manage” (32%), and “wild” (23%).
Older women (Gen X and Baby Boomers)more commonly described their hair as “healthy” and “manageable” compared to younger women.
Gen Z Millennials Gen X Baby Boomers 47% 45% 46% 43% 42% 41% 40% 38% 38% 35% 34% 34% 34% 33% 32% 32% 32% 32% 30% 30% 29% 30% 28% 26% 25% 24% 24% 23% 23% 21% 21% 20% 19% 20% 19% 17% 18% 15% 15% 15% 15% 15% 14% 15% 13%
8% 7% 5%
Beautiful Dry Healthy Strong Reflects my Frizzy Hard to Manageable Wild Nappy Stylish Damaged personality manage ...... 39 Q: How would you describe your hair? ((Please select up to 5) . Base: total sample (n=600) Natural is considered the most beautiful style However personal preference varies, and other styles are also considered beautiful
In your opinion, what is the most beautiful hair style on women of color?
Updo 6% Those who said “other” Short / cropped commonly expressed a view 6% that any, or all, styles are Other beautiful, and it depends on 8% the individual and how she feels comfortable Natural curls (eg wash & go, Straightened styles twist out, 'fro ) 14% 49%
Braids or locs 17%
...... 40 Q In your opinion, what is the most beautiful hair style on women of color?. Base: total sample (n=600) Natural curls are considered most beautiful even by some women who chemically alter their texture
NEVER PREVIOUSLY CURRENTLY chemically altered chemically altered chemically altered
In your opinion, what is the most beautiful hair style on women of color?
Updo Updo Updo 7% 4% 9% Short / cropped Short / cropped 5% Other 6% Short / cropped Natural curls 6% Other 9% (eg wash & go, 11% twist out, 'fro ) Straightened 28% Natural curls styles Other Natural curls (eg wash & go, 11% 13% Straightened twist out, 'fro ) (eg wash & go, styles 51% twist out, 'fro ) 13% 55% Braids or locs Braids or locs 14% 18% Straightened Braids or locs styles 14% 26%
...... 41 Q In your opinion, what is the most beautiful hair style on women of color?. Base: total sample (n=600) Generational differences in beauty perceptions
In your opinion, what is the most beautiful hair style on women of color? Natural curls Braids / locs Straight styles
Gen Z 53% 23% 4%
Millennials 51% 20% 10%
Gen X 51% 13% 17%
Baby 43% 15% 21% Boomers ...... 42 Q In your opinion, what is the most beautiful hair style on women of color?. Base: total sample (n=600) “Good” and “Bad” hair
Despite greater acceptance and embracing of natural hair textures, many multicultural consumers still use the terms “good” (typically depicting looser curls) and “bad” (typically tightly coiled or kinky) when describing textured hair.
Do you use the terms “good hair” or “bad hair” when describing textured hair?
Yes No 44% 56%
...... Q: Do you use the terms "good hair" or "bad hair" when describing textured hair? Base: total sample (n=600) 43 Women who chemically alter their texture are significantly more likely to think of textured hair as either “good” or bad”
% who use “good hair” or “bad hair” to describe textured hair
NEVER chemically altered 41%
This says a lot about the mindset of these women – PREVIOUSLY chemically 40% although many said that they choose to relax their hair altered but now natural because of convenience factors, they may also still be holding onto deep seated cultural beliefs about the desirability of Afro-centric hair textures
CURRENTLY chemically altered 62%
...... 44 Q: Do you use the terms "good hair" or "bad hair" when describing textured hair? Base: total sample (n=600) Natural hair: cultural shift or fashion trend?
% who believe natural is here to stay Natural hair is just a trend / fad NEVER chemically altered 86% 13% PREVIOUSLY chemically altered but now natural 91% CURRENTLY chemically altered 77%
1 / 2A / 2B / 2C 80%
Natural hair is 3A / 3B / 3C 88%
here to stay 4A / 4B 90% 87% 4C 92%
Gen Z 81%
Millennials Across hair state, curl pattern, and generational segments, more than three quarters of 91% respondents believe that the natural hair movement is a permanent shift, not just a trend. Gen X 86%
New naturals, 4Cs and Millennials expressed the strongest belief that natural styles are Baby Boomers 86% here to stay (all more than 90%)...... 45 Q: Do you believe that multicultural women (i.e. Black women, Bi-racial, etc) wearing their hair in its natural texture is a trend/fad, or are natural styles here to stay? Base: total sample (n=600) “I think people are truly beginning to embrace their natural selves and getting rid of the weaves and wigs. Inner beauty is being displayed by multicultural women at an all time high. Definitely here to stay”
...... 46 How do consumers see natural styles evolving?
• More and more multicultural women will continue to embrace natural hair textures as cultural norms change both in the ethnic and wider communities • Women no longer feel the need to alter their hair texture to fit in or be deemed acceptable. Many see embracing natural hair as a form of self love • Natural styling and haircare will evolve as women learn how to take care of their natural texture • More and better products will become available for managing natural hair • Women will always continue to wear natural hair, but the way there will be more creative and innovative styling trends. • Women will continue to learn about helpful and harmful ingredients, and demand products that do not pose a risk to their hair or health ...... 47 Q: How do you think natural styles will change or evolve over the next 5 years? Base: respondents who believe natural styles are here to stay (n=525)
Comments on texture evolution
Gen X Gen
Gen Z Gen
Baby Boomers Baby Millennials
“Hair and fashion are always “More women might wear their “More women are realizing that it’s “Anything goes now days there is no changing. I love my natural hair, so hair more naturally, as it is both better for hair and over all health. ethnic hair style; it's whatever you it will not change, it will be trendy, and less expensive to There will be some who’ll go back want to wear and what makes you different” manage.” to relaxed but I think most women feel good as a person.” will continue to wear their natural hair” “[Natural styles will stay] at least “If it was just a trend, it would've for a while anyway. It took forever faded already. Plus, black/bi-racial for natural hair to be recognized “My mom’s generation in the 60s women are becoming more “Natural hair has been here forever and appreciated” wore their hair naturally and I wore accepting of themselves” we just now have a name for it, my hair naturally in the 70s and now I women will continue to be natural am wearing my hair natural again in because it's a state of mind not a 2019. Wearing a natural hair texture “Your natural hair is not a trend it’s “I'm almost 50 and have seen the never fades or goes out of style” what you are born with” fad.” natural look wax and wane” ...... 48 Q: How do you think natural styles will change or evolve over the next 5 years? Base: respondents who believe natural styles are here to stay (n=525) Generation
Gen Z Millennials 9% (Between 18– 25) 38% Born after 1996 (Currently Between 24 – 42) Born 1977 - 1995
Baby Boomers 20% (Between 55 – 73)
Born 1946 – 1964* Born 1965 - 1976
Gen X 34% (Currently Between 43 – 54)
* A very small number of respondents (n=6) born between 1941 and 1945 have also been categorised as baby . . . boomers. . for. analysis . purposes ...... 49 Base: Total sample (n=600) If natural is just a trend, what comes next?
“I think it is a trend right now...and another trend will take its place and some people will follow that...”
Women who said they think natural styles are just a trend were often unsure what the next trend will be. Some suggestions included: • Wigs/weave • Return to straight hair • Braids
Manageability, individuality, and celebrity influence could be factors in ...... changing . . . trends ...... 50 Q: What do you think the next big trend will be? Base: respondents who believe natural styles are a trend (n=75) Textured hair & society
28% 43% 52% 34%
Believe they have been Consider their hair Have changed their Have changed their discriminated against style or state to be a hair to feel more hair at the request of because of their hair political choice professional at work a partner or spouse texture or style
...... 51 Q:Please answer “yes” or “no” for each question. Base: total sample (n=600) Although just over half said they have previously changed their hair to feel more professional at work, workplace attitudes are changing
“Women like me aren't forced to straighten our hair anymore because we don't care what society says and it is no longer required by corporate America.”
“I think that the choice to wear natural hair will be protected by state laws and women won't be fired for wearing their hair the way they were created without fear of losing jobs”
...... 52 Textured hair & society: Generational differences
Young women more frequently reported discrimination on the basis of their hair, and more commonly consider the way they choose to wear their hair as a political choice
Believe they have been Consider their hair Have changed their discriminated against Have changed their style or state to be a hair at the request of because of their hair hair to feel more political choice a partner or spouse texture or style professional at work
Gen Z 55% 49% 55% 36%
Millennials 54% 29% 58% 36%
Gen X 32% 23% 50% 37%
Baby 33% 22% 44% 25% Boomers ...... 53 Q:Please answer “yes” or “no” for each question. Base: total sample (n=600) Hair choice is more political for lifelong Naturalistas
% who consider the way they wear their hair to be a political choice
NEVER chemically altered 40%
Women who have never chemically altered their hair are significantly more likely to view their hair choice as a political PREVIOUSLY chemically altered but now natural 23% statement (40%) compared to women who have previously altered their texture but are now choosing to wear their hair natural (23%). For many newer naturals the choice is driven by fashion trends, and health or hair needs.
CURRENTLY chemically altered 33%
...... 54 Q:Please answer “yes” or “no” for each question. Base: total sample (n=600) Her Journey, Her Choice… Insights into Her Shopping Behavior
...... 55 Multicultural consumers look for product claims relating to texture
When choosing haircare products, do you look for products that claim to suit your specific hair texture?
No / not really 10% 76% Sometimes 15% Yes, always Said that they always, or usually, 42% seek haircare products that claim to suit their specific texture
Most of the time 34%
...... 56 Q: When choosing haircare products, do you look for products that claim to suit your specific hair texture?. Base: total sample (n=600) Seeking products to suit hair texture Women who have always been natural were less likely to report seeking products that claim to be suitable for their hair texture than those who have previously, or are currently, chemically altering their hair texture.
Women with straight or wavy hair are slightly less concerned with whether or not products claim to be suitable for their texture, and there is little generational difference in the frequency of texture driven purchase.
% who always or mostly look for products that claim to suit their specific hair texture
80% 78% 78% 78% 75% 77% 76% 74% 76% 71% 67%
NEVER PREVIOUSLY CURRENTLY 1 / 2A / 2B / 3A / 3B / 3C 4A / 4B 4C Gen Z Millennials Gen X Baby Boomers chemically chemically chemically 2C altered altered but altered ...... now . natural ...... 57 Q: When choosing haircare products, do you look for products that claim to suit your specific hair texture?. Base: total sample (n=600) Texture claims are more important to product choice than hair state and ethnicity
Which of these factors is MOST important to you when selecting haircare products?
Total sample Based on how often they look for texture claims
For my hair texture 42% 47% 42% 29 30 % % For my hair state
(eg natural vs Always 23% 21% relaxed) 29% 6% of time the Most 1%
For my ethnicity 36% 16% 23% 30 46 % % Consumers who don’t usually seek
products claiming to suit their specific 18% 18% Sometimes Other texture are more concerned with finding really Not 6% products for their hair state and “other” 16 21 factors including ingredients and price. % %
...... 58 Q: Which of these factors is MOST important to you when selecting haircare products? Base: total sample (n=600) Younger consumers place more importance on hair texture product claims than older women
Gen Z Millennials Gen X Baby Boomers
For my hair 55% 45% 42% 33% texture Which of these factors is MOST For my important to 21% 25% 32% 36% you when hair state selecting haircare products? For my ethnicity 15% 28% 20% 23% X
6% 9% Other 9% 3%
...... 59 Q: Which of these factors is MOST important to you when selecting haircare products? Base: total sample (n=600) How do consumers determine which products and styles work with their texture? Experimentation is the primary way that multicultural consumers learn which products and which styles will work for their hair texture. Online research, friends and family, and brand claims also play a role
Trial and error 54%
Online research 39%
Talking to friends / family 35%
Brand / product claims 32%
Following social media accounts or YouTube videos of women with the 27% same texture
Recommendation from salon / stylist 27%
Other 3%
...... 60 Q: How do you know which products or styles will work on your hair texture? Base: total sample (n=600) Consumer evaluation of product and style suitability differs between generations
Younger women actively research products and styles online (particularly Gen X), and often get inspiration from following social media influencers, bloggers and vloggers with the same hair texture. Gen Z women are also more likely to believe brand and product claims about texture suitability. Trial and error is most common amongst Millennials and Gen X women, while Baby Boomers were more likely than younger women to mention “other” methods including sticking with the same products and styles they have used for years.
Gen Z Millennials Gen X Baby Boomers 59% 59% 55%
45% 45% 43% 42% 37% 37% 36% 36% 33% 35% 32% 31% 32% 30% 29% 26% 25% 25% 23% 19%
12% 9% 2% 1% 3%
Trial and error Online research Talking to friends / family Brand / product claims Following social media Recommendation from Other accounts or YouTube salon / stylist videos of women with the ...... same. texture. . . 61 Q: How do you know which products or styles will work on your hair texture? Base: total sample (n=600) Curl pattern impacts the way consumers seek product and style knowledge Two thirds of women with 4C hair said that they figure out which products and styles work for their hair texture through trial and error. These consumers are also more likely to research online. In contrast, women with 4A/B hair were the most likely to report following social media accounts of women with the same hair type.
Women with straight or wavy hair are more likely to trust their salon/stylist about which products or styles will work for them, compared to kinky, curly, or coily women.
66% 1 / 2A / 2B / 2C 3A / 3B / 3C 4A / 4B 4C
55% 53%
46% 41% 40% 37% 38% 37% 35% 36% 34% 35% 33% 32% 33% 32% 30% 28% 25% 25% 25% 23% 20%
3% 2% 6% 2%
Trial and error Online research Talking to friends / family Brand / product claims Following social media Recommendation from Other accounts or YouTube salon / stylist videos of women with the ...... same . texture. . . 62 Q: How do you know which products or styles will work on your hair texture? Base: total sample (n=600) Meeting current & future textured hair needs Most surveyed African American and multiracial women believe that the current assortment of available products adequately address textured hair needs, now and into the future (79%).
Newer naturals, and women with 4C and 3A/B/C hair were the most likely to suggest that there are need gaps.
% “no” Do currently available haircare products and brands fully address textured hair needs (now and into the future)? NEVER chemically altered 15%
PREVIOUSLY chemically altered but now natural 24%
CURRENTLY chemically altered 18%
Yes No 79% 21% 1 / 2A / 2B / 2C 12%
3A / 3B / 3C 26%
4A / 4B 19%
4C 28%
...... 63 Q: Do you think that currently available haircare products and brands fully address textured hair needs (now and into the future)? Base: total sample (n=600) What is missing/needed in textured haircare?
Ingredients Addressing all hair Targeted solutions Addressing problem Greater variety / types areas choice
• “They keep on adding • “We need more products • “I think they should put • “Something that can • “They aren’t available in silicon and sulphate or specifically for types of the specific hair type such condition but not weigh most stores and it is not paraben or dyes, like lord!, hair. For example, in the as 4c on the products.” down, mousse/gel without available in abundance. take it off.” Shea Moisture brand they • “They need to focus on being sticky. I'm always There are small sections in have more high porosity combining products.” which natural hair care • “The products need to be women with a curlier hair products that for low texture and not worry • “Some products claim to products are located.” SULFATE FREE and NOT porosity. We need more about trying to have a do something and they • “Variety, there are only a cost more because of it natural products are each either” universal product that will deliver on that yet they few companies.” type of hair” work on all women.” lack something else critical • “More natural products • “There are different • “The specific types of for natural hair which is (without chemicals) that textures within ethnic hair moisture.” do not contain nut oils.” hairs are not fully and right now most addressed. It's mainly • “I think frizz needs to be Other suggestions: • “More herbs and natural products treat them all as meant for one type but addressed more often ingredients because there the same” claims to be for all types products aren't really • More black owned brands is still a lot of harmful • “More diversity in of naturals” controlling the frizz like • Healthy/non-damaging chemicals in ethnic textures, to match every they should.” products.” relaxers type of hair.” • “Better detangling” • “More organic/vegan • Continued research and • “I could never find • “Hard to find a product improvement brands, especially for products for me because urban consumers.” that truly moisturizes my my hair was neither hair and stays "white" nor "black”” moisturized.” ...... 64 Q: What do you think is missing? Base: consumers who indicated that current products do not fully address textured hair needs (n=127) “I have noticed that there are more products but they tend to be geared to one dominant ethnicity. Many companies assume that people with very curly hair are dominantly African American. There are so many different types of curly hair from so many different ethnic backgrounds. I wish there were more products that were specific to not just what texture curls a person has, but the porosity of your hair, the thickness and density of ...... your. .hair, . and. the. length. . of. your . hair.”. . . 65 The Texture Evolution Impact on Buying Trends
...... 66 Texture Evolution
Dollar Share of MCHC Category 120%
100% 6% 12% 19% 27% 80% 35% 39% 47% 50% 60%
40%
20%
0% 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 All Other MCHC Natural
The “Natural” Segment represents 50% of the Multicultural Haircare Market
...... 67 Source: SSI Multicultural Haircare Reports 2011-2018 Texture Evolution: Manufacturer Impact
MANUFACTURERS 1 SOFTSHEEN-CARSON /L'OREAL 1 SUNDIAL BRANDS / UNILEVER 2 LUSTER PRODS INC. 2 PDC BEAUTY / CVC CAPITAL 3 UNILEVER 3 L'OREAL USA - MCB 4 MEMPHIS CONTRACT PACKAGING 4 STRENGTH OF NATURE / GODREJ 5 NAMASTE LABORATORIES 5 NAMASTE LABORATORIES / DABUR 6 STRENGTH OF NATURE 6 MEMPHIS CONTRACT PACKAGING 7 CHEATHAM CHEMICAL CO. 7 REVLON USA 8 SCHWARZKOPF & HENKEL 8 CHEATHAM CHEMICAL CO.
9 AMPRO INDUSTRIES 9 HAWTHORNE PRINTS INC.
2009 Top 10 2018 Top 10 10 PROCTER & GAMBLE 10 LUSTER PRODS INC.
Top Manufacturers of 2009 that maintained a top 10 spot in 2018 did so through mergers and/or becoming key contributors in the transition to “natural” styling trends...... Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales 68 Texture Evolution: Brand Impact
BRANDS 1 SOFTEE 1 SHEA MOISTURE 2 ORS 2 CANTU 3 PINK OIL MOISTURIZER 3 ORS 4 SMOOTH N SHINE 4 SOFTEE 5 AMPRO 5 AFRICAN PRIDE 6 AFRICA'S BEST 6 CREME OF NATURE 7 MOTIONS 7 ECO STYLE 8 DARK AND LOVELY 8 AFRICA'S BEST
9 PANTENE 9 AMPRO
2009 Top 10 2018 Top 10 10 BB 10 PALMER'S Longevity brands like Softee & ORS have conceded the top spots to natural textured leaders Shea Moisture & Cantu. Other older brands have also found a place in the top 10 with products relevant to naturals...... 69 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales Texture Evolution: Segment Impact
Over the last 10 years, chemical straightening platforms have declined Curl/Wave in relevance to this Mens (- 8.7%) Texturizers consumer (from 21% to (+ 14.3%) 1% (- 7.4%) just 5% of units sold). CH HC 2% 1% CH Rlxr (+ 5.3%) (- 13.9%) 3% 1% Hair Color (- 2.7%) 5% Adult Rlxr (- 14.%) Styling 5% Shampoo (+ 12.1%) (- 1.%) 33% 12%
Hairdress Shampoos and Conditioners units (+ 3.9%) Conditioners 13% (+ 9.4%) have DOUBLED (13% to 36%) 24% 2009 2019 ...... 70 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales Texture Evolution: Segment Impact
180
Millions 160 • The growth of
140 Multicultural Hair Care has been fueled by the 120 increased sales of 100 Styling Aids, 80 Conditioners and 60 Shampoos. 40
20 • This mirrors the
0 textured shoppers 2009 2012 2015 2018 desire for healthy hair Styling Conditioner Hairdress Shampoo Adult Relaxers Hair Color and style maintenance. Men's Hair Care Childrens Hair Care Curl/Wave Maintenance Texturizer Kits Childrens Relaxers
...... 71 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales Texture Evolution: Pricing Impact by Segment
+56%
+86% $6.38
$6.00 $5.84 $5.74 +56% $5.45 $5.28 $5.31 $5.15 $4.94 $4.99 $5.00 $4.80 $4.70 $4.61 $4.56 $4.34
$3.97 $4.00 $3.91
$3.33 $3.33 $3.29 $3.17 $3.14
$3.00 $2.77
$2.00
$1.00
$0.00 Styling Conditioner Hairdress Shampoo Adult Hair Color Men's Hair Childrens Curl/Wave Texturizer Childrens Relaxers Care Hair Care Maintenance Kits Relaxers 2009 2012 2015 2018 The average price of Multicultural Hair Care grew 31% from 2009-20018 but top segments in texture trends over indexed the market...... 72 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales Texture Evolution: Styling Aid Shifts
60 Millions
• Initially, Gels 50 declined as Styling Creams and Edge 40
Gels carved out their 30 space in the segment. 20 • Gels have rebounded 10
as all three expand 0 their importance in a 2009 2012 2015 2018 Gels Styling Creams Edge Gels texture focused Sheen Sprays Styling Lotions Polishers & Serums Mousse Non-Aerosol Sheen Sprays Wrap & Setting Curl Refreshers Spritz & Holding Braid Sprays regimen. Curl Wax Press
...... 73 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales Texture Evolution: Styling Aid Leaders
STYLING AIDS 1 Ampro Pro Style Protein Styling Gel 6 oz 1 Eco Styler Maximum Hold Gel 16 oz 2 Ampro Pro Style Protein Styling Gel 10.5 oz 2 Ampro Pro Style Protein Styling Gel 6 oz 3 Softee Extra Hold Styling Gel 8 oz 3 Cantu For Natural Hair Coconut Curling Cream 12 oz 4 ORS Olive Oil Nourishing Sheen Spray 14.7 oz 4 Cantu For Natural Hair Moisturizing Curl Activator Cream 12 oz 5 Let's Jam Shining and Conditioning Gel Extra Hold, 4.4 oz 5 Eco Styler Maximum Hold Gel Argan Oil 16 oz 6 Ampro Pro-Styl Clear Ice Styling Gel 6 oz 6 Wet Line Xtreme Extra Hold Gel 35.26 oz 7 Let's Jam Shining & Conditioning Regular Hold Gel 4.4oz 7 Creme of Nature Argan Oil Perfect Edges Control Hair Gel 2.25 oz 8 Smooth 'N Shine Polishing Curling Mousse Strong Hold 9 oz 8 Ampro Pro Style Protein Styling Gel 10 oz
9 Softee Super Freeze Styling Gel 8 oz 9 Let's Jam Extra Hold Gel 4.4 oz
2009 Top 10 2018 Top 10 10 Motions At Home Oil Sheen & Conditioning Spray 11.25 oz 10 Shea Moisture Organic Coconut & Hibiscus Smoothie 12 oz
The all important Gel maintains a strong presence in the top 10. However, Sheen Sprays & Mousse move out to make room for Styling Creams as the quest for curl definition takes the forefront...... 74 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales Texture Evolution: Conditioner Shifts • In 2009, the number of Conditioners sold 35 ranked #4 behind Millions Styling, Hairdress and 30 Adult Relaxers with an 8% share of the market. 25 • In 2018, it was the #2
20 segment behind Styling with 21% share of the market. 15 • The growth of Leave Ins 10 has contributed significantly to segment 5 expansion but Rinse Outs are growing at a
0 faster pace since 2015 2009 2012 2015 2018 (+73% vs. +50%). Rinse Out Leave In Treatment ...... 75 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales Texture Evolution: Conditioner Leaders
CONDITIONERS 1 ORS Olive Oil Replenishing Pak Deep Conditioner 1.75 oz 1 Palmer's Coconut Oil Formula Protein Pak 2.1 oz 2 Pantene Relaxed & Natural Intensive Moisturizing Conditioner 12.6 oz 2 Cantu Shea Butter Cream 16 oz 3 Mane 'n Tail Conditioner 32 oz 3 ORS Olive Oil Replenishing Pak Deep Conditioner 1.75 oz 4 Dr. Miracle's Tingling Intensive Deep Conditioning Treatment Packette 1.75 oz 4 Cantu For Natural Hair Hydrating Cream Conditioner 13.5 oz 5 Smooth 'N Shine Therapy Repair Xtreme Sixty Second Critical Repair 1.7 oz 5 Mane 'n Tail Conditioner 32 oz 6 Queen Helene Cholesterol Hot Oil Treatment 3 oz 6 African Pride Olive Miracle Leave In 15 oz 7 Smooth 'N Shine Repair Xtreme 0.625 oz 7 Creme of Nature with Argan Oil Leave-In Conditioner 8.45 oz 8 Pantene Relaxed & Natural Intensive Moisturizing Conditioner 25.4 oz 8 Cantu for Natural Hair Leave In Conditioner Repair Cream 12 oz
9 Motions Moisture Plus Conditioner 13 oz 9 Maui Moisture Heal & Hydrate Conditioner 13 oz
2009 Top 10 2018 Top 10 10 Motions Moisture Plus Leave In Conditioner 12 oz 10 Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Leave-In Conditioner 11 oz
The 2 packet leaders, both “then & now”, highlight the role ingredients like olive and coconut oil have played in the texture evolution.
...... 76 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales Texture Evolution: Hairdress Shifts
30
• The Hairdress segment Millions 25 declined as the use of
Petrolatum based 20 products were not accepted by the natural 15 hair care community. 10 • The segment began a rebound in 2018 due to 5 more Oils and growth 0 focused product 2009 2012 2015 2018 introductions. Oils Petrolatums Hairdress Lotions Hairdress Creams General Treatment/Growth Natural** ...... 77 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales Texture Evolution: Hairdress Leaders
HAIRDRESS 1 Softee Coconut Oil Hair & Scalp Conditioner 3.5 oz. 1 Hollywood Beauty Tea Tree Oil Skin & Scalp Treatment 2 oz 2 ORS Olive Oil Moisturizing Hair Lotion 12 oz 2 Africa's Best Ultimate Herbal Oil 8 oz 3 Blue Magic Conditioner Hair Dress (Blue) 12 oz. 3 ORS Olive Oil Moisturizing Hair Lotion 12 oz 4 Africa's Best Super Gro Hair & Scalp Conditioner 5 oz. 4 Blue Magic Coconut Oil Hair Conditioner 15 oz 5 BB Oil Moisturizer Hair Lotion 12 oz 5 BB Oil Moisturizer Hair Lotion 12 oz 6 BB Super Gro Double Hair & Scalp Treatment 6 oz 6 Blue Magic Conditioner Hair Dress (Blue) 12 oz. 7 Motions at Home Hair Lotion Oil Moisturizer 12 oz 7 African Pride Olive Miracle Moisturizing Lotion 12 oz 8 Softee Indian Hemp Hair & Scalp Treatment 3.5 oz 8 Africa's Best Super Gro Hair & Scalp Conditioner 5 oz
9 Softee Hair Food 3.5 oz 9 BB Super Gro Double Hair & Scalp Treatment 6 oz
2009 Top 10 2018 Top 10 10 Blue Magic Coconut Oil Hair Conditioner 15 oz 10 Cantu Shea Butter Strengthening Treatment 6.1 oz Although not fully reflected in the top 10 of 2018, new introductions of oils & oils enhanced products i.e. Jamaican Black Castor, Tea Tree, Olive, Argan drove increases in the segment...... 78 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales Texture Evolution: Shampoo Shifts
• The introduction of Sulfate-Free Shampoo Millions 14 has been a game
12 changer in the care and maintenance of 10 textured hair. 8 • Now, as the basic
6 foundation of a healthy hair regimen, most 4 product introductions of
2 the past decade has featured it. 0 2009 2012 2015 2018 Sulfate Free Conditioning Regular Co-Wash Treatment Neutralizing ...... 79 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales Texture Evolution: Shampoo Leaders
SHAMPOO 1 Pantene Relaxed & Natural Intensive Moisturizing Shampoo 12.6 oz 1 Mane 'n Tail Original Shampoo - 32oz 2 Mane 'n Tail Shampoo 32 oz 2 Cantu For Natural Hair Sulfate-Free Cleansing Cream Shampoo 13.5 oz 3 ORS Creamy Aloe Shampoo 12.5 oz 3 Maui Moisture Heal & Hydrate Shampoo 13 oz 4 Motions At Home Lavish Shampoo Medium To Coarse Hair 13 oz 4 Mane 'n Tail Deep Moisturizing Shampoo 12 oz 5 Pantene Relaxed & Natural Intensive Moisturizing Shampoo 25.4 oz 5 Shea Moisture Organic Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Control Shampoo 13 oz 6 Isoplus Neutralizing Shampoo 8 oz 6 Creme of Nature Argan Oil Moisture Shine Sulfate Free Shampoo 12 oz 7 Sulfur-8 Regular Shampoo 7.5 oz 7 Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Replenishing Shampoo 13 oz 8 Mane 'n Tail and Body Shampoo 8 oz 8 Maui Moisture Strength & Anti-Breakage Shampoo 13 oz
9 Dr. Miracle's 2-N-1 Tingling Shampoo and Conditioner 6 oz 9 As I Am Coconut Cowash Cleansing Conditioner 16 oz
2009 Top 10 2018 Top 10 10 Optimum Oil Therapy Ultimate Recovery Shampoo 13.5 oz 10 Maui Moisture Curl Quench Shampoo 13 oz
The top Shampoo items of 2018 reflect the multicultural shoppers brand diversity in crossover items like Mane ’n Tail, Maui Moisture and Shea Moisture. It is also important to note that 8 of the 10 are Sulfate Free.
...... 80 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales The Decline of Chemical Straightening
18 Millions
16
14
12
10
8 • The Chris Rock ROCKumentary “Good Hair” was released in 2009. Although sales were 6 declining prior to the movie, relaxer sales
plummeted as women began to “Rock” their 4 natural hair texture. • The 8.5M Adult Relaxers sold in 2018 is less 2 than half of what it sold a decade ago. 0 • However, our shopper survey indicates that 2009 2012 2015 2018 an innovation addressing the harshness of the current offerings could give a resurgence Full Application One Application to this segment. Multiple Applications Professional Application
...... 81 Source: IRI customized Multicultural Hair Care by Strategic Solutions Int’l *All information reflects Unit Sales The Next Phase of Texture Evolution
...... 82 The Ever Evolving Evolution Trendy Transitions
Natural Curls Cultural Awakening
Freedom to start the journey Emerging Mainstream Shifts
FULL Striving to achieve mainstream Chemically standards of beauty Curly . . . EMBRACE!...... 83 The Journey Continues… Texture Diversification
• According to the US Census, the population of people who are Two or More Races is projected to be the fastest growing racial or ethnic group over the next several decades.
• SSI Consumer Research discovered that Naturalistas believe there is a gap in the current market offerings of products that are customized for their specific hair type and not just natural vs. non natural.
• 2018 IRI results of SSI’s customized Multicultural Hair Care database reveals that texture focused products are growing 11% in a total marketplace growing only 2%.
• Merchandising based on hair care needs and characteristics seems increasingly inevitable ...... 84 Survey Respondent Profiles
...... 85 Generation
Gen Z Millennials 9% (Between 18– 25) 38% Born after 1996 (Currently Between 24 – 42) Born 1977 - 1995
Baby Boomers 20% (Between 55 – 73)
Born 1946 – 1964* Born 1965 - 1976
Gen X 34% (Currently Between 43 – 54)
* A very small number of respondents (n=6) born between 1941 and 1945 have also been categorised as baby . . . boomers. . for. analysis . purposes ...... 86 Base: Total sample (n=600) Consumer Demographics
Ethnicity Age Family Household income
60+ $75k+ 10% Multi-racial 18-29 15% 18% 25% < $25k No kids 37% 45-59 43% $50-75k 26% 17% Has kids 58%
African- American 30-44 82% $25-50k 39% 31%
...... 87 Base: Total sample (n=600) Consumer Demographic - Region
18% 16% 10%
56%
...... 88 Base: Total sample (n=600) Consumer Demographics - Hair type 24%
16%
13%
10% 8% 7% 6% 6% 5% 5%
1 2A 2B 2C 3A 3B 3C 4A 4B 4C
...... Q: Using the picture as a guide, which of the following best describes your natural hair type / curl pattern? Base: Total sample (n=600) Consumer Demographics – Current hair state
Natural texture Chemically altered texture 82% 18%
...... 90 Q: Is your hair texture currently, or has it ever been, chemically altered (eg relaxer, texturizer)?) Base: Total sample (n==600