HIGHLIGHTING SKIN OF COLOR

Hair Care Practices in African American Women

Chemene R. Quinn, MD; Timothy M. Quinn, MD; A. Paul Kelly, MD

Hair care in African American women is wrought Ethnic hair care is a billion dollar industry.1,3 with historical and cultural issues. Dermatolo- Unlike most other consumer markets, the hair care gists need to improve their understanding of hair market is split into general and ethnic segments.3 and disorders in their African American Most stores have a separate section for ethnic patient population by being informed about the hair care products. African American hair care is styling methods commonly used by and for these composed of products and services devoted to patients. The styling habits described in this arti- grooming excessively curly hair, which requires cle are intended to encompass the specialized handling and styling techniques, as well adapted by a wide range of African American as product formulations. women with varying hair textures. The purpose of this article is to familiarize Cutis. 2003;72:280-282, 285-289. dermatologists with the often-sensitive subject of hair care practices of their African American women espite the differences in length and type of patients. We hope to bridge the cultural gap that hair, the majority of African American causes patient frustration and physician confusion. D women use various methods to straighten Questions about hair washing frequency, water their hair. It is estimated that 80% of these women phobia, and thermal styling will be addressed. This treat their hair with chemical .1 The prac- article aims to provide physicians with a better tice of repetitive chemical relaxing may contribute understanding of the various styling methods and to the common scalp disorders seen in these cultural attitudes of this patient population and to patients.1 The desire for straight hair stems from help physicians treat their African American many factors. The most compelling may be the his- patients with hair disorders. torical value the African American community places on hair texture and length. By the early Structural Properties 1900s, both African American and white communi- African American hair is similar to straight hair in ties placed personal merit on lighter skin and long amino acid content; however, it differs in the struc- straight hair. Bundles2 writes, “Well-groomed hair ture of the hair shaft, which resembles a twisted among the black elite meant hair that was not oval rod.3 The tight curl pattern makes the hair matted or scraggly.” A trend toward more natural or particularly susceptible to breakage when manipu- Afrocentric styles began in the late 1960s and 1970s. lated. The tensile properties of excessively curly hair indicate that it has a lower strain value at breaking point compared with straight hair.3 The Accepted for publication January 17, 2003. Drs. C.R. Quinn and Kelly are from the Division of Dermatology, vast majority of the African American population Department of Internal Medicine, and Dr. T.M. Quinn is from the has a spiral hair shaft, which has a reduced diame- Department of Family Medicine, Martin Luther King Jr/Drew ter from the scalp outward. The hair of African Medical Center and Charles R. Drew University of Medicine and American people also has a long major axis, giving Science, Los Angeles, California. the hair a flattened elliptical shape. In addition, The authors report no conflict of interest. 4 Reprints: Chemene R. Quinn, MD, Division of Dermatology, Martin the scalp hair follicles are curved. As a result of Luther King Jr/Drew Medical Center, 12021 S Wilmington Ave, these factors, African American hair has more of a Los Angeles, California 90059 (e-mail: [email protected]). tendency to form knots and longitudinal fissures

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and splits along the hair shaft compared with the comb; however, she did pioneer the development hair of white and Asian populations.4,5 of hair oils and the marketing and distribution schemes used to popularize the method.2 Moisturizing the Hair and Scalp Although chemical relaxing is the predominant The water content in African American hair is method used by African slightly less than that in the hair of white people,3 American women, pressing is still used today by and the sebaceous glands in the scalp of African those who prefer not to permanently alter the American people are often less active, secreting an natural texture of their hair. inadequate amount of sebum that has difficulty An oil or cream is applied to the hair and scalp traveling down the spiral hair shaft.3 Moisturizing to prepare them for the pressing treatment. Oils the hair enables combing without the tugging or continue to be used for this process despite cau- pulling that can result in damage to the hair shaft. tions concerning scarring alopecia.7 Oil makes hair softer, prepares and conditions hair for pressing, Straightening the Hair helps prevent hair from burning or scorching, helps Curlier hair is more difficult to comb, which limits condition the hair after pressing, adds sheen to the ability to achieve many popular hairstyles. pressed hair, and helps hair stay pressed longer. Pressing and chemical relaxing (lanthionization) LoPresti et al7 described the association of petrolatum- are used to straighten hair and to achieve the widest based oils with scarring alopecia. Creams and variety of hairstyles. used today have less petrolatum and allegedly Pressing—Also known as thermal hair straight- decrease the risk of this condition. ening or hot combing, pressing is a process that The temporary nature of pressing can contribute straightens hair using high heat, oils, and metal to lifestyle changes and an increased risk of hair and implements. Pressing instruments are constructed scalp damage. A large number of African American of stainless steel or brass, and the handles are made women do not swim or exercise for fear of “sweating of wood to prevent heat absorption. The imple- out the hair” or of the hair “going back” to its nat- ments (Figure 1) are heated to temperatures of ural curl, which would ruin their often expensive about 350°F by household or marcel stoves or by (Figures 2 and 3). The alternative is for electric heat.6 The temperature of the instrument is women to press their hair at home every few days to tested on a piece of light paper that will become “hold the press,” which leads to excessive hair dam- scorched if the implement is too hot.6 Table 1 age and a risk of thermal burns. Scalp, , and neck details the various pressing methods. burns are frequently encountered. Milady’s Standard Madame C.J. Walker has been incorrectly Textbook of advocates immediate appli- credited with the invention of the straightening cation of 1% gentian violet jelly after a burn.6

Figure 1. Pressing combs and thermal irons vary in size and are used for straightening, flatironing, and curling hair.

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Table 1. Pressing Methods

Soft press Removes 50%–60% of the curl When applying thermal pressing, comb once to hair on each side of the head Medium press Removes about 60%–75% of the curl When applying thermal pressing, comb once to hair on each side of head using slightly more pressure Hard press Removes 100% of the curl When applying thermal pressing, comb twice to hair on each side of the head Double press Passing a hot curling iron through the hair prior to applying the thermal pressing comb

Figure 2. Natural hair that is unprocessed.

There is no mention in the manual of using topical When developed in the 1940s, chemical relax- antibiotics such as bacitracin, which is more likely ers were crude concoctions of sodium hydroxide or to be efficacious and recommended by a physician. potassium hydroxide (lye) mixed in potato starch.3 Complications and side effects of thermal styling In the 1950s, the relaxing formulas were placed in are listed in Table 2. a creamy base of petrolatum, fatty alcohols, and Chemical Relaxing—Many African American emulsifiers. Before relaxing the hair, a petrolatum patients describe this process as similar to perma- base was applied to the scalp to protect it. Women nent waving; however, the perming process is used were instructed not to or manipulate the to curl straight hair while chemical relaxing scalp prior to applying the to avoid burning straightens curly hair using chemicals that alter the and irritating the scalp. The popular products used hair’s natural texture. A chemical relaxer, unlike a today in salons and at home are more advanced press, prevents the hair from reverting to its natural and do not include base or lye (formulated with state when exposed to water or humidity. CONTINUED ON PAGE 285

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Table 2. Complications and Side Effects of Thermal Styling

Injury Potential Complication Scalp burns and burnt hair Can lead to temporary or cicatricial alopecia Ear and neck burns Infection, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation/hypopigmentation Vigorous and too frequent pressing Progressive breakage and shortening of hair

Table 3. Steps in Chemical Relaxing (Lanthionization)

Processing Chemical relaxer is applied to the hair, which immediately begins to soften, enabling the chemical to penetrate the hair and thus loosen and relax the natural curl

Neutralizing Once the hair has been sufficiently processed, the chemical relaxer is thoroughly rinsed out with warm water followed by either a built-in shampoo neutralizer or a combination product of prescribed shampoo and neutralizer

Conditioning Chemical relaxer opens the hair cuticle, which is unable to maintain moisture Depending on a client’s needs, the conditioner may be part of a series of hair treatments or may be applied to the hair after the relaxing treatment

Retouching Chemical relaxer is applied to the new growth of hair every 8 to 10 weeks to maintain the straight style as the hair grows

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 282 level 4.5–6.0) brings the hair back to a pH balance guanidine hydroxide) relaxers but do include non- of 4.0 to 6.0. base, texturing, and conditioning relaxers. The Blow-drying—Blow-drying is the process of repet- steps involved in the chemical relaxing process are itive combing in the presence of moderate heat. A discussed in Table 3.6 comb or brush is used to style the hair as heat from Chemical relaxing changes one third of the cys- the blow-dryer follows the combing or brushing teine contents of the hair to lanthionine and motion from the scalp to the hair ends. In African hydrolyzes peptide bonds.3 The solution penetrates American women, it is used as a means to straighten into the cortical layer and the cross bonds (sulfur hair, to prepare hair for optimal pressing, and to and hydrogen) are broken. The chemicals are highly style hair after chemical relaxing. alkaline and can leave the hair with a pH level as Permanent Waving—This process is similar to high as 12.0. If left on the hair too long, the solution perming straight hair except that curly hair is will digest the hair. The length of time it should straightened. Permanent waving (, curly remain on the hair depends on hair thickness. ) consists of applying ammonium thioglycolate A neutralizer stops the chemical reaction of the to the hair, re-treating the hair with a con- relaxer. It re-forms cysteine (sulfur) cross bonds in taining ammonium thioglycolate, and wrapping the their new position and rehardens the hair. It has hair on rollers.3 The style is maintained with a been proposed that a neutralizing shampoo (pH glycerin-based spray or lotion applied daily. A

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Figure 3. Hair after being straightened with a pressing comb. Some African American women do not exercise or swim for fear of “sweating out the hair” or the hair “going back” to its natural curl, which will ruin their Figure 4. Individual braided extensions with blonde expensive hairstyle. highlights, mimicking long wavy hair.

decline in the use of perming is due to problems such ing with hair extensions serves to create a desired as excessive hair breakage, chemical stains on collars style, as well as to give an appearance of length and pillows, and lack of styling versatility. (Figure 4). The are intended to swing, hang, and move similar to straight hair. Extensions can be Styling the Hair made from either human hair or synthetic hair. Setting—Various molding techniques (finger wav- Braiding has been showcased with blonde high- ing, freeze, wrapping) are used to attain hairstyles lights, beads, or weaved threads in a kaleidoscope of ranging from a light hold to a freeze hold. Many colors.8 Braids are frequently used to “grow out” hair popular hairstyles are achieved by molding or or to “give hair a break” from relaxers and thermal curling the hair with rollers and then applying set- styling. The ancient style of braiding can transform ting lotions and styling gels. Theses fixatives are an African American woman’s lifestyle. Many balanced with plasticizers such as propylene glycol women adopt a style when implementing an or glycerin. We have found that such styles can be exercise program to avoid styling dilemmas. difficult to manipulate and prohibit adequate clini- Plaits, single braids, and microbraids are individ- cal examination of the scalp. ually sectioned braids. Because the hair is in small Braiding and Cornrowing—The coiffures of sports sections, the braids can be gathered, moved, and stars Allen Iverson and Venus and Serena Williams easily manipulated. The style is popular because it are examples of the growing popularity of braiding can mimic long straight hair (Figure 4). and cornrowing. Braiding has its roots in Africa but The term cornrow is derived from the resem- has been transformed by the African American blance of the braids to planted rows of corn.8 A influence and by style trends. Braids are styled by cornrow is a stationary braid that lays flat on the interlocking 3 or more pieces of hair to create a scalp. The parting of the hair is fundamental to the 3-dimensional section that extends from the head.6 accuracy and beauty of the style. Many of the popular braids, including individual Weaving—Hair weaves are done for fashion, braids, mimic the hairstyles of white women. Braid- therapeutic, and prosthetic reasons. Many women

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Figure 5. A partial hair weave that has been sewn onto the scalp.

believe that a weave style will help them grow out results in dryness. Thus, shampooing is limited to their hair, cover a balding area, add thickness once every one or 2 weeks. Many old wives tales sug- to their hair, or create style.8 Hair weaves can be gest that frequent hair washing increases the risk of partial or full (Figure 5). A weave can take several colds or pneumonia.2 African American women with hours to perform, and the style lasts at least hair styled by weaves, relaxers, perms, and braids may 2 months. Usually the natural hair is cornrowed shampoo even less frequently so their hair will not go and then the hair to be added is sewn, braided, or back to its natural condition. The hair care products glued onto the cornrow or exposed scalp.8 targeted to this population contain mild amphoteric Twists—Twisting helps to minimize the bulk of detergents, detanglers, silicone-based materials, qua- thick hair, redefines the hair’s natural curl, and ternary ammonium compounds, and cationic poly- makes the hair manageable from day to day.8 A twist mers that will not aggravate the scalp.3,9 requires regular styling or biweekly visits to the salon. In African American women, conditioners func- Locks—Wearing locks is a long-time commit- tion to ease both wet and dry combing; to smooth, ment. Locks are formed when uncombed hair tan- seal, and realign damaged areas; to provide protec- gles and mats into clusters. Once the hair starts to tion against damaging thermal and mechanical pro- “lock” there is no reversing the style other than to cedures; and to impart sheen and a silky feel.3 cut the hair. The hair cannot be combed out or The conditioning agents formulated for African loosened apart. The 2 forms of locks are free-form American hair are rich quaternary ammonium com- and guided. Free-form locks are grown without ever pounds that facilitate ease of wet combing and min- combing, twisting, shaping, or brushing the hair. In imize hair damage.9 Emollients (eg, mineral oils) or Africa, hair is towel dried in circular motions so esters (eg, isopropyl myristate) are added to these that the hair forms into tightly separated curls.8 conditioners to reduce hair dryness.3 The actions of Guided locks have shapes that are predetermined these formulations are enhanced when a plastic cap with twist, braids, or hand rolls. The guided locks is placed on the head and the head is then placed require regular grooming, twisting, and separating under a warm dryer for 20 to 30 minutes.3 of new growth to maintain a neat appearance of the Copious amounts of oil-based are used hair (Figure 6). There are several lock styles includ- in African American hair. A practice commonly ing free-form, 2-stranded twist, braided, hand rolls, referred to as “greasing the scalp” is used to relieve beading, wrapping, and Sisterlocks™.8 dryness and dandruff. The hair is parted in sections and is applied directly to the scalp. Greas- Cleansing, Conditioning, and Daily Grooming ing of the scalp can possibly promote or exacerbate African American hair does not become coated with seborrheic dermatitis and pomade . Pomades sebum secretion as naturally as straight hair, which enhance hair manageability and provide sheen

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while alleviating scalp dryness. Lighter emulsions of creams and lotions are replacing pomades, which are heavier, may contain lanolin, may be petrola- tum based, and contain no water.3

Comment Ethnic hair care is a billion dollar industry.1,3 The industry is devoted to the African American mar- ket, as well as to an international market that includes hair textures found in African, African Caribbean, and segments of South America and Middle Eastern populations. African American hair styling encompasses a mixture of aesthetic, borrowed, adapted, and reconfigured fashions from both African American and white cultures. The phenomenal growth in the market has been largely due to 2 factors: scientific innovations and hairstyle trends in African American women. These factors continue to spur the birth of new product categories.3 Madame C.J. Walker developed hair creams and preparations to induce hair growth and aid in hair straightening. Although she was not the first to conceive of the idea of hair straightening, she was responsible for catapulting the idea to Figure 6. Locks require regular grooming, twisting, 6 unprecedented horizons. Approximately 80% of and separating of new growth. Once hair has locked, African American women use chemicals to relax it cannot be reversed other than by cutting the hair. their hair.1 Many salons overbook appointments and handle multiple clients simultaneously, often resulting in relaxing chemicals remaining on the hair longer than recommended. Side effects of these chemicals include scalp irritation, chemical and severe anxiety.10 Patients presenting to our burns, postinflammatory hypopigmentation/ clinic with have reported multiple episodes hyperpigmentation, hair breakage, trichoptilosis of scalp irritation and burns after application of (split ends), and tangling (distal-acquired trichor- chemical relaxers. These patients rarely present ini- rhexis nodosa). Cosmetologists are cautioned tially to the dermatologist. The repetitive treat- against using thermal irons on hair that is chemi- ments and frequent scalp insults may contribute to cally straightened to avoid the resultant hair hair and scalp disorders and ultimately alopecia breakage.6 However, thermal irons are commonly including cicatricial alopecia.1 used on chemically straightened hair in salons and The resulting chemical and thermal damage to at home. Many African American women admit to the hair of African American women has caused a applying thermal irons to the roots of the hair surge in natural hairstyles such as braids, which daily to reverse the effects of humidity and wetness became popular in the late 1960s and 1970s. from showering and bathing. This practice may Recently, , weaves, and braids with exten- result in hair breakage and alopecia in the bitem- sions have become popular hairstyles of African poral areas, which can cause the appearance of a American entertainers. The natural or low-upkeep receding hairline or mimic . It also styles are encouraged by many because they allow a may cause the hair to acquire a coarse dry texture, maintenance period during which daily trauma to which decreases styling ability and leads to exces- the hair is minimal.11 If not done properly, however, sive breakage. these styles can induce traction alopecia, traumatic Swee et al10 described an outbreak of alopecia alopecia, , and hair breakage. We have from a highly acidic hair relaxing product. Patients observed that many women with weaved hairstyles from this outbreak experienced hair loss of up to cleanse their hair less frequently than their coun- 40% and other side effects including hair breakage, terparts. Some patients go 3 to 4 months without dry coarse hair, green hair, burning irritated scalp, shampooing their hair.

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Confounding the problem of infrequent sham- dations and improve patient compliance with pooing is the difficulty in obtaining a thorough therapeutic interventions. cleansing of the scalp while the braids are in place.12 This can result in a higher incidence of REFERENCES seborrheic dermatitis, bacterial folliculitis, and 1. Callender V. African-American scalp disorders and treat- fungal infections of the scalp. Silverberg et al13 ment considerations. Skin Aging. 2002;10(suppl):12-14. described a high incidence of African American 2. Bundles A. On Her Own Ground: The Life and Times of women with carrier-state tinea capitis and sug- Madame C.J. Walker. New York, NY: Scribner; 2001. gested that the decrease in shampooing inhibits 3. Syed AN. Ethnic hair care products. In: Johnson DH, ed. spore removal. Emollients, pomades, and creams Hair and Hair Care. Vol 17. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker are used daily by African American women to Inc; 1997:235-259. combat hair dryness and damage from various 4. Taylor SC. Skin of color: biology, structure, function, and straightening methods. Ingredients such as petro- implications for dermatologic disease. J Am Acad Dermatol. latum, lanolin, and isopropyl myristate are highly 2002;46(suppl):S41-S62. implicated in pomade acne and can aggravate seb- 5. Khumalo NP, Doe PT, Dawber PR, et al. What is orrheic dermatitis.8,13 normal black African hair? a light and scanning We assert that there are historical and cultural electron-microscopic study. J Am Acad Dermatol. ramifications of hair care in African American 2000;43:814-820. women that affect their self-image and their place 6. Roche R, Alpert A, Brunetti M, et al. Milady’s Standard in society. The rise in popularity of hair extensions Textbook of Cosmetology. Albany, NY: Thomson and weaved styles among African American enter- Learning; 2000. tainers is a by-product of both a means of assimila- 7. LoPresti P, Papa CM, Kligman AM. alopecia. tion and a need to camouflage damage to the hair Arch Dermatol. 1968;98:234-238. and scalp caused by straightening methods. This 8. Ferrel P. Let’s Talk Black Hair. Vol 1. Washington, DC: trend most likely will result in more cases of alope- Cornrows & Co; 1996. cia and in patients presenting with hair loss at ear- 9. Miller JJ, Heymann WR. African-American Hair Care lier ages. [audiotape]. Schaumburg, Ill: American Academy of Hair density in the African American popula- Dermatology; 2001;48(5). Stone SP, ed; Dialogues tion is significantly lower than in the white popu- in Dermatology. lation.14 African American hair has been 10. Swee W, Klontz KC, Lambert LA. A nationwide outbreak described as tightly curled, dry, and highly suscep- of alopecia associated with the use of a hair-relaxing tible to breakage5; however, defining “normal” formulation. Arch Dermatol. 2000;136:1104-1108. African American hair is more complex. Because 11. Grimes PE. Skin and hair cosmetic issues in women of the African American population is a heteroge- color. Dermatol Clin. 2000;18:659-665. neous group, its hair can be straight, curly, or a 12. Draelos ZD. Understanding African-American hair. mixture of both.1 This variability will increase Dermatol Nursing. 1997;9:227-231. with the rise of interracial marriages.4 By intro- 13. Silverberg NB, Weinberg JM, DeLeo VA. Tinea capitis: ducing physicians to common hair care practices focus on African American women. J Am Acad Dermatol. in African American women, we can promote an 2002;46(suppl):S120-S124. understanding of the culture of these women. This 14. Sperling LC. Hair density in African Americans. Arch understanding can enhance treatment recommen- Dermatol. 1999;135:656-658.

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