Lochmere Midwinters Feast A Celebration of Diwali

January 27, 2018 Mistress Lisette la Roux, OP

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The inspirations for this feast were built on two concepts. The first inspiration came from the Ain I Akbari, written during the time of the Emperor Akbar in the mid to late 16th century/early 17th century during the continued rise of Mughal influence in India. The second inspiration being the concept of Ayurvedic medicine and system of “life knowledge” that was present in ancient Indian culture, even surviving in modern eastern medicine.

Ain I Akbari

The Mughal influence in India began in the late 15th century with Emperor Zahir- ud-din Muhammed Babur (otherwise referred to as Babur or Babar) conquest at Panipat in 1526 and the Battle of Khanwa. Although Babur was aloof to the found in Northern India at the time, he did have a fondness for fruits, noting that India was void of grapes, musk melons, or first-rate fruits. (Pande, n.d) His love of fruits led to the creation of the Royal Fruitery, which is mentioned in great detail in the Ain I Akbari. In contrast, his son, Humayun, who began his reign in 1530, expanded the Indian diet by introducing Mughal and Persian foods into northern India, in some cases, introducing new dishes such as kormas (braised meat in creamy sauces), pilafs or rice dishes such as biryani, and kabobs or koftas (grilled spicy meatballs). (Pandes, n.d.) Even frozen treats such as kulfi, a rich was introduced into the Indian cuisine. (Achaya, 1994) Emperor Akbar began his reign in the mid 16th century and expanded the empire beyond that of his predecessors. Akbar the Falconer

Akbar surrounded himself with his navaratnas (“Nine Jewels”). These nine jewels were men who made up his cabinet of counsel, who held important positions in his administration during his reign. His Grand Vizier, Abu’l-Fazl ibn Mubarak, was commissioned in the late 1580s to document Akbar’s administration and history in a series of books called the Akbarnama. The 3rd book in this series was the Ain I Akbari, which served as an administrative accounting and assessment of the areas of India under Emperor Akbar’s reign.

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The 3 volumes specifically used in this research were translated from the original Persian language to English in the late 19th century by several scholars within the Asiatic Society of Bengal, Colonel H.S. Jarrett and H. Blochmann, M.A in Calcutta, and published by Harvard University.

These documents contain numerous detailed references and accounts of specific foods and recipes, as well as also eating etiquette, rituals, and seasonal crops.

In the Ain I Akbari, Grand Vizier Fazl listed Akbar’s three classifications of dishes: 1) Dishes with no meat (sufiyana) which consisted of vegetarian dishes with wheat, dhals, green leafy vegetables, and halwas 2) Dishes with meat and rice (palaos, biryanis or shullas) which consisted of wheat or rice with meat 3) Dishes with meat and spices (Haleem, kabobs, qutab) which were dishes entirely of meat cooked with ghee, spices, curd and eggs (Achaya, 2003)

Abu’l-Fazl ibn Mubarak

Ayurveda

Different cultures have established a connection between the body and how matter can affect one’s overall well-being. This connection was referred to commonly as “humors” in early period and were linked heavily to the elements earth, water, air, and fire as well as the physical qualities of cold, hot, moist, and dry which affected individual’s personal qualities (NIH, NLM, 2018) Ayurvedic Medicine or Ayurveda is an ancient system of medicine that dates back 2,000 years acknowledging the connection between and medicine or physical and mental well-being. The Ayurvedic practitioners or “vaidyas” were respected throughout the continent. Rulers, including Alexander the Great, sent their own doctors to learn from them. (Sen, 2015)

Three ancient texts serve as original authoritative texts on Ayurvedic medicine. The Charaka Samhita written in Sanskrit around 400-200 BCE is considered the oldest text on the topic and is still used by modern students of 4

Ayurveda. It concentrates on the overall theory of Ayurvedic medicine and kayachikitsa or internal medicine. The Sushrtua Samhita is thought to be nearly as old and concentrates on surgical practice and theory. The third work is by Vagbhata, Ashtanga Sangraha. These are thought to have existed after the original two but are considerably larger in text, emphasizing physiological treatment and the use of metals and minerals. The minor texts on the topic are The Sharngahara Samhita (15th century), Bhana Prakasha (16th century), and Madhava Nidanam (700 AD).

Similar to the ancient Grecian theory on humors, the Ayurvedic practitioners believed that all matter falls into one of five categories: Ether (Space), Air, Fire, Water, and Earth. (Lad, 2017) The combination of these elements makes up the “doshas” or the unique blends of physical, emotional, and mental characteristics that are defined for each individual. These doshas are Vata, Pitta, and Kapha. (The Chopra Center, 2018) Conceptually, all states of mass or matter have some sort of energy. Not only the consumption of certain foods, but the way the elements or characteristics of foods are combined and how they interact can have an overall effect on the physical – mind connection and well-being of an individual.

The combination of the five elements: fire, earth, air, water, and ether and ten pairs of contrasting qualities heavy and light, cold and hot, oily/moist and dry, slow and intense, stable and mobile, soft and hard, clear and sticky, smooth and tough, subtle and gross, and solid and liquid create the perfect combination to keep the body healthy and balanced. (Sen, CT, 2015)

Ayurvedic nutrition involves incorporating the 6 “tastes” or Rasas should be included in each meal to find the perfect personal adjustment for your constitution. This counterbalance of energy through food helps the individual with balanced nutrition and good health, resulting in overall satisfaction. (Eisler, 2018) Along with these 6 tastes, eating a colorful diet promotes a long and healthy life. (Chopra, 2018).

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Flavor Characteristics Food examples Sweet Most grounding and , all whole grains, nourishing most meats, dairy products, sweet fruits including mangoes, peaches, apricots; dates, sweet vegetables such as cucumbers, carrots; many nuts such as , , and spices like rose, saffron, cardamom, poppy seeds and cinnamon Sour Awakenings thoughts Yogurt, cheese, all citrus and emotions and fruits especially lemon, improves the digestive vinegar, pickles and process pickled or fermented foods, tamarind, and certain wine Salty Stimulates digestion and Salt, sea salt, real salt, fish, increase absorption of olives and foods with minerals added salt such as nuts, breads and soups Pungent Improves appetite, All of the peppers, ginger, heightens senses garlic, onion, cardamom, cumin, mustard seeds, and black and green peppercorns Bitter Detoxifying All of the bitter greens and dark leafy greens are bitter including spinach, certain teas such as green, black, and most herbal teas, spices like turmeric and fenugreek Astringent Mentally purify and Green grapes, many strengthen vegetable, dry red wine, coriander (leaves and seeds), pomegranate, Split peas, lentils, turnips, bay leaf, and the white peel inside citrus fruits 6

Cooking techniques

For the purposes of feast and KASF, due to number of people being served, availability of resources, and practicality, modern cooking techniques were used in the preparation of these dishes. However, in practice, the hearth in the home was a place of purity and sanctity often with a place of worship located nearby but far away from any waste area, receiving of guests, or living areas for sleeping or sitting. (Achaya, 1998) Common cooking techniques included drying, cooking in water, steaming, frying (including deep frying), slow dry roasting, baking, and a form of grilling using a Tandoori oven for meat, fish, and poultry. (Achaya, 2002). Although using modern tools, these techniques were incorporated as much as possible during the feast. The specific technique of Baghar, or slow roasting the spices into the pan prior to incorporating the main ingredients was a common theme and also incorporated. (Achaya, 2002) Techniques also involved sautéing. (Sen, 2015)

Men and women both worked as professional cooks, with some specializing in certain dishes or the amount of food they could prepare. Cookware was made of copper, iron, stone, and clay (common for cooking of bread). Meat was spit roasted or fried in oil. (Sen, 2015)

In his book, Feasts and Fasts: A history of food in India, Sen states that the Ayurvedic text from 1550, Kshema kutuhalam, lists culinary equipment in 16th century India, including:

• Broom • Big pot • Brush • Grindstone • Bamboo vessel • Jar filled with water • Stones to produce fire • Pieces of dry wood • Sieve • Strainer • Pestle and mortar • Winnowing basket (tool used to separate grain from the chaff, or remove insects) • Clod of clay • Ladle • Square piece of cloth 7

• Two pairs of tongs • Four pieces of cloth • Tubular reed • Knife • Iron spit for roasting • Frying pan • Long ladle of iron for fire • Wood or iron for storing ghee

Map of India under Akbar’s reign until 1605 and after 8

Menu

First course Mixed Winter Vegetable Pickle (*) Ginger Coriander Chutney (*) Naan (*) Platter of Oranges, Apricots, Grapes, Dried Ber, Dates, Mango, Cucumber (*) Laddu (*) Pistachios Spiced Tea Pomegranate water

Second course Fish Amritsari (fried fish) Roasted Goat in spices Chicken Korma (creamy stewed chicken) Daal (spiced lentils) (*) Sag Paneer (Spinach and cheese) (*) Dish of peas, onions, and mint with spices (*) Rice (*) Chicken Biryani (researched and served to kitchen staff, not included in feast)

Third course Gulab Jamun (Indian Doughnut in ) (*) Gajar Halwa (sweetened carrot dish with almonds on the side) (*) Khubani Ka Meetha (dish of stewed sweetened dried apricots) (*) Mishti Doi (Sweet Cream) (*)

* Vegetarian

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Winter Vegetable Pickle

The technique of picking is an ancient method of preservation and is particularly important in a hot climate to keep foods for a long period of time. Indian pickles (Achar) can be sweet, sour, salty, cooling, hot, or very hot. (Sen, 2015). Pickles were noted in the Ain I Akbari with varieties including lemons, limes, garlic, ginger, eggplant, raisins, horseradish, cucumbers, carrots, turnips, even sugar, apples, and mangoes. (Allami & Blochmann, 1873) The Linga purana, one of the eighteen Mahapuranas and a Shavite Hindu text written in 1594, describes no fewer than fifty variations of pickles. (Achaya, 1998)

Lesson Learned: It will seem dry, too dry to “can”, however the moisture after cooling greatly increased and there was plenty moisture to can with. Do not keep it for too long as it may go bad. I would not recommend longer than 2 months at most. I chose to use orange carrots because of colors (the other vegetables being white) and I am currently doing some additional research regarding the actual origin of orange carrots as opposed to white, yellow, and purple.

Inji Malli (Ginger Coriander Chutney)

Chutney is the European form of the Hindi word Chatni, which is a freshly ground relish of ingredients. (Achaya, 1998) It has a smoother consistency than a pickle and is usually used as a condiment. I used cilantro (coriander) and ginger as the base because cilantro was mentioned as a spring harvest in the Subah (or Province) of Allahabad and Oudh in Volume 2 of the Ain I Akbari as well as in the recipes for dishes (pg. 59 and 60, volume 1) and statistics of the price of certain articles (pg. 64 volume 1).

Lessons Learned: The consistency is very pasty, so for a thinner result, add more water and oil until you get the consistency you want without making to watery or too oily. The seeds make a big difference, and adding them in does makes for a spicy end product.

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Kobbari louz (Coconut Jaggery Laddu)

It is common in Ayurveda meals to begin with something sweet in order to activate the taste buds which in turn activates the saliva glands and begins the body’s process of digestion. (Siddiqil, 2015). Traditional laddu had special value as a good quality protein where essential nutrients can be added for children, nursing mothers, pregnant women, or even travelers. This dish dates as far back as original Ayurvedic literature. (Malgi & Darshane, 2017) Traditional laddus are made with a mixture of a sugar substance, ghee, water, dried fruits, sometimes wheat or vegetable greens to pack as much nutritional value into the serving as possible. (Achaya, 1998) Sugar appears in several recipes, in many forms including Sugar Cane, , , and Sugar . It was grown in a variety of Subhas as not only a Spring and Autumn harvest, but also in the royal household.

I chose coconut and jaggery in this laddu. Coconut, as a tree and a fruit, is described in the first two volumes of the Ain I Akbari, where it appeared as a fried fruit in the Imperial Household, and as growing in Subahs of Malwah and Behar (Allami & Blochmann, 1873) Jaggery is a brown sugar with the slightest hint of in the . It comes from either the sap of date palm trees or sugar cane and is an unrefined and non-distilled form of sugar similar to . This gives the Laddu a rich flavor.

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Fish Amritsari

Fish is a well-documented ingredient in Indian foods prepared in a variety of ways, including boiling, deep frying, and roasting in oil. (Sen, 2015) This dish is a common street vendor food prepared in the region near Amritsar in the Punjab region of North Western India, hence it’s given name. Fish in general is referenced in the Ain I Akbari in the Subah of Bengal and the Sarkars (or districts within a Subah) of Orissa, Palwah, Kashmiri in volume 2 and within the recipes for the Imperial Household in volume 1.

Lessons Learned: The paste is very difficult to keep on the fish due to the differences in textures. It was necessary to pat the paste onto the fish instead of dredging, however the result was a fabulous fried fish fillet with a golden crust.

Roasted Goat in spices

Goats were raised in the Indian region by the third millennium BCE and because they feed on natural vegetation and are smaller in size, they are better suited for areas that are not suitable for crops or dairy farming. (Sen, 2015). With the arrival of Islam from 1300-1550, the goat played a role in festivals including Edi-ul-Zuha wherein a ram or goat was sacrificed and the meat was distributed in a prescribed manner, eating the meat at every subsequent meal until the meat is gone. (Sen, 2015). Goat is a common animal listed in the Ain I Akbari, in some cases specifically the Barbary Goat. Goats are listed for both food and milk sources within the Sarkars of Kashmiri, Pakli, and Kabul in volume 1 and among the price statistics and recipes in volume 1.

Lesson Learned: I also tried this in a smoked variation, using the same spice mixture, and marinated in dry rub overnight prior to smoking with cherry wood. While the result was nice, I opted for the roasted variant since the recipe used was an adaptation of a kabob recipe. Logistically this was easier for the larger audience.

Chicken Korma

Korma is a dish consisting of meat or vegetables braised in yogurt, cream, or stock, then spiced into a thick sauce. (Chapman, 2007) Korma is less of a “dish” and more of a technique involving frying, where moisture is then added near the end and cooked out until the result is a thicker consistency, well incorporated into the dish. It is indicative of the Persian influence on food that was introduced with the 16th century Mughals. (Pande, n.d.). 12

Chicken is specifically mentioned in the Ain I Akbari within the Sarkar of Pakli in volume 2 and within the recipes of the imperial household in volume 1. The domesticated chicken is native to the Indian subcontinent but thought to originate for fighting for amusement purposes (Sen, 2015) As noted by Moorish visitors in the 14th century, chicken was being served to the gentry in various forms including kabobs, in biryanis, and on large platters alongside naan, goat, sherbets, and wine. (Achaya, 1994)

Lessons learned: I originally used boneless skinless chicken breasts and the result was a very dry chicken in a wonderful sauce, so I opted for boneless, skinless chicken thighs. This resulted in chicken pieces with a much softer texture and overall better mouth feel.

Daal (Dhal)

Lentils (dhal) were a common ingredient mentioned in the Ain I Akbari as a spring and autumn harvest in many Subahs and specifically as split dhal in statistical pricing and recipes. These pulses were used in a variety of ways; as thickening agents, ground into flour, in side dishes specifically with roti or rice, or soaked and ground into flour, then formed into various shapes for deep fried vadas and wadian. (Achaya, 1998)

Lessons learned: I tried this recipe in both a pressure cooker and on the stove top. The pressure cooker was obviously quicker but also yielded a smoother texture. The stovetop variant took about an hour versus 10 minutes in pressure cooker, so for logistical purposes, the pressure cooker was used for the feast.

Saag Paneer

Saag (Spinach) by itself, is mentioned in the Ain I Akbari under vegetables in the statistics for pricing commodities and in recipes in volume 1. Well before it was known in the West, Spinach was an ancient leafy vegetable served in many ways in India. (Sen, 2015)

There is some disagreement as to whether ancient Indians made cheese in the modern sense, separating the whey from the curd with a souring agent. In Vedic literature, there is a reference to dadhanvat (or something that means an abundance of curds) which has two variants, undrained and drained (the latter being Paneer). (Achaya, 1998) Paneer, specifically, is a farmer’s type cheese and comes from the Hindi word Panir. (Sen, 2015) Although the specific origin varies in interpretation, the variant of paneer that is used today speculatively derives from the variation from the Persian and Mughal influence later in India’s 13 history. (Kumar, Rai, et al., 2014) Milk curd is specifically mentioned in the Ain I Akbari volume 1 as part of the meal served to Emperor Akbar.

Lessons Learned: Use of frozen over fresh spinach did not change the overall dish, and for a large number of servings, the frozen was easier to manage. It is important, though, to ensure all moisture is removed from the spinach before cooking, otherwise it will come out while on the plate. The paneer does not need to be fried for long, just enough to have a tan to brown appearance on the outside.

Dish of peas, onions, and mint with spices

This recipe allowed me to provide not only an additional vegetarian side dish, but also incorporate other ingredients mentioned in the Ain I Akbari. Peas are referenced as a spring crop in the Province of Hindi Asadhi, and the Subahs of Agra (the Royal residence), Allahabad, Oudh, Delhi, and Lahore. Onions were also a spring crop listed in similar regions but were also referenced in the specific classification of land in volume 1. Mint is referenced within the listing of ingredients in recipes in volume 1. While the combination of the three is not specifically documented as a recipe in the Ain I Akbari, this recipe allowed me to add additional documented ingredients into the feast.

Lesson learned: This is my recipe incorporating other ingredients found in the Ain I Akbari but also provide an additional vegetarian side item. Tried also a variation that uses green chilies instead of onion and cilantro instead of mint. While both were excellent, this variation allowed me to use mint in the feast instead of cilantro which has been used in abundance.

Chicken Biryani

Biryanis (originating from the Persian word Birinj as found in Ain I Akbari) and Pulaos (originating from the Persian word polou) were additional examples of the Mughal/Persian influence on Indian cuisine, although there are some scholars that contend that regional recipes in Bengal of semi cooked fish and rice were already present on the subcontinent. (OMICS, 2014) Although these dishes were specifically noted in the second category of recipes (meat and rice) listed in the Ain I Akbari, the book does not make a distinction between the two.

Biryani consists of aromatic spices cooked together in ghee, and after adding in meats (sometimes marinated in yogurt and spices like a korma), cooked together with rice or wheat. Different regions yield different variations on the basic theme; sometimes they focus on a main ingredient such as chicken or goat and other 14 times focus on specific spices such as mustard seeds in Benghal or chilies as found in Maharashtra. (Karan, 2009)

Lessons Learned: Use of chicken thighs instead of chicken breast yield a better flavor and texture. I experimented with the use of Greek and American yogurt variants and found that the Indian yogurt yielded the best results. This could be due to flavor profiles of the different varieties or brands used in my experiment.

Gulab Jamun

Gulab Jamun is also indicative of Persian influence on Indian cuisine. The word Gulab is from the Persian words Gul (flower) and ab (water) because of the use of rose water in the sweetened syrup. (Goswami, 2016) Jamun is the name of a similar shaped fruit. These balls of paneer (or milk based product such as milk powder) and flour are fried until dark brown and boiled in a sugar syrup. That syrup is flavored with saffron and rose water (hence the name), sometimes adding cardamom to the mix. Gulab Jamun is thought to have originated from a Persian dessert called Luqmat Al-Qadi fried dough balls of a different batter but that are also soaked in honey or rose flavored syrup, and sprinkled with sugar. (Krondl, 2014)

Lesson learned: I tried this recipe but cooked it a bit too long, so it was darker than I would have liked, but that is an easy fix. I also tried a store bought gulab jamun mix just in case the from-scratch variant failed. The store-bought mix did not hold together, but instead fell apart even before they went into the syrup and became a bowl of mush. Use this recipe, not store-bought brand. The technique of rolling the balls prior to frying took some time to figure out to ensure the perfectly round balls this dessert is known for. It is important to ensure the dough is wet and sticky and not dry otherwise the balls will crack when fried.

Galar Halwa

Carrots, also called Gajar in Hindi, are an ancient vegetable in India, however the pre 10th century variety was green in color and globular in shape. (Achaya, 1998). The orange carrots known today and represented in this feast came much later and were transformed via breeding, however I am currently engaged in research regarding when orange carrots were established in Western Europe. Carrots were mentioned frequently in the Ain I Akbari as an Autumn harvest product of Hindi Asadhi, a Spring harvest in the Subahs of Allahabad, Oudh, and Multan, and Ajmere, and in the Royal residence of Agra in volume 2. In volume 1, carrots are an ingredient in recipes and listed as a vegetable in the royal 15 garden as a winter crop. Halwas, a semi sweet confection or dessert made from milk and sugar, was a common dish in Muslim communities. (Achaya, 1994)

Lesson learned: I am doing research on the use of orange carrots in SCA period based on several late period art renditions of orange carrots instead of white, purple, etc. Originally, I used white and purple carrots, however it yielded a less that appealing color for serving. I decided to use orange carrots instead, for visual appeal and cost limitations for the dish to be served in large quantities.

Khubani Ka Meetha (Stewed Apricots) with Mishti Doi (sweet cream)

Apricots were known, specifically in Kashmir, as early as 650 AD. Jahangir, born in 1569 but who ruled from 1605 to 1627 noted that the sweet cherry, pear, and apricot were grown in Kashmir and were of superior quality during Akbar’s time. (Achaya, 1994) They, along with other fruits such as poegranete, ber, and mangos, were also used as a sweetened syrup to flavor water. In Ayurvedic terms dried apricots are seen as a “cold” food. (Achaya, 1998)

Lessons Learned: I tried two variations of dried apricots, Sunkist and a generic brand that contained pits purchased from my local Indian food store. Even though the Sunkist brand did not contain any sugar, the result was sweeter in the final dish than the generic brand. Also, I noticed that the first batch of apricots I prepared (soaked) of the generic brand quickly molded when soaking.

Mishti Doi (sweet cream)

Milk and milk based products such as yogurt have been well established within the Ain I Akbari. Different varieties of were also well documented from sugar cane, to white refined sugar, to jaggery (a gritty brown sugar), to . It is even documented in images such as crushing in a Kolhu from a Jain manuscript AD 1540. (Achaya, 1994) The combination of the three ingredients is also known in Indian desserts such as Shrikhand.

Lessons Learned: Caramelizing sugar can quickly become burnt sugar if not watched closely.Although I brought the milk to luke warm temperature, I would like to try adding the caramelized sugar when it’s hot to avoid the sugar clumping once added to the milk. The clumped sugar made it very hard to incorporate into the milk. I think adding the sugar to hot milk would allow it to dissolve better.

Conclusion

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I, personally, have grown significantly in researching and preparing this feast. The new foods, spices, and techniques challenged me to move beyond what I knew in Western European cooking and forced me to move outside of my comfort zone, yielding very exciting results. Understanding the combinations of spices and learning new ways to create dishes, both sweet and savory has expanded my knowledge about cooking. The Ayurvedic nature of my research has also enlightened me to better understand the pairing of and how the combinations can affect the overall result of a meal.

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A Banquet for Babur 1590 18

References

Allami, A.F. & Blochmann, H. (1873) Ain I Akbari – Volume 1. Baptist Mission Press. Calcutta.

Allami, A.F. & Jarrett H.S. (1891) Ain I Akbari – Volume 2. Baptist Mission Press. Calcutta.

Allami, A.F. & Jarrett H.S. (1894) Ain I Akbari – Volume 3. Baptist Mission Press. Calcutta.

Achaya, K.T. (1994) Indian Food a Historical Companion. Oxford University Press. New Delhi, India.

Achaya, K.T. (1998) A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food. Oxford University Press. New Delhi, India.

Achaya, K.T. (2003) The story of our food. Oxford University Press. New Delhi, India.

Chapman, P. (2007) India: The ultimate book on Indian Cuisine Food and Cooking. New Holland Publishers. London, UK.

Chopra, D. (2018) That is Ayurveda. The Chopra Center. Retrieved from: https://chopra.com/articles/what-is-ayurveda

Eisler, M. (2018) The 6 Tastes of Ayurveda. The Chopra Center. Retrieved from: https://chopra.com/articles/the-6-tastes-of- ayurveda?_ga=2.252627850.288257846.1515881345-362230025.1515881345

Feasts and Fasts A History of Food in India. Reaktion Books. London, UK.

Goswami, S. (2016) 5 dishes you thought were Indian-origin, but weren’t. Retrieved from https://www.indiatoday.in/food-drink/food/story/dishes-you- thought-were-indian-but-are-not-rajma-dal-chawal-gulab-jamun-jalebi-samosa- biryani-lifefd-350244-2016-11-04

Indian Food Forever (2016). Gajar Ka Halmwa recipe. Retrieved from www.indianfoodforever.com

Kapoor, S. (2011) How to cook Indian. Abrams. New York, NY.

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Karan, P. (2009) Biryani. Noida: Random House. India

Krondl, M (2014). The donut: History, Recipes, and Lore from Boston to Berlin. Chicago Review Press. Chicago Illinois.

Malgi, A. & Darshane, P. (2017). Development and Quality Evaluation of “Shatavari Laddu”. Department of Ayurved. International Journal of Current Medical and Pharmaceutical Research Journal.

Pande, r. (n.d.) Looking at Indian food and cuisine – in the past – a historical analysis. Powerpoint presentation.

Sarkar, P.V. (2017). Mishti Doi (Sweet Yogurt). Retrieved from https://www.thespruce.com/mishti-doi-sweet-yoghurt-1957832

Selvaraju, V. (2018) Gulab Jamun (Indian Doughnuts). Retrieved from https://www.tastemade.com/videos/gulab-jamun

Sequeria, A. (n.d.) Saag Paneer: Spinach with Indian Cheese.

Shreekkanth, S. (2017) Kobbari louz – Coconut Jaggery Ladoo. Retrieved from: https://indianhealthyrecipes.com/?s=ladoo

Siddiqil, N.M. (2015) Begin your meal with something sweet: Ayurveda. Retrieved from https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/life-style/health- fitness/diet/Begin-your-meal-with-something-sweet- Ayurveda/articleshow/45452360.cms

Vegetarian Times Editors (2107). Yellow Lentil Daal. Retrieved from https://www.vegetariantimes.com/recipes/yellow-lentil-dal

Images: Flavoring of Water 1505 AD Nimat-Nama, India Akbar the Falconer circa 1580s Exotic India Art Abu’l-Fazl ibn Mubarak A Banquet for Babur circa 1590

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Recipes

Winter Vegetable Pickle Adaptation from Punjabi style Winter Vegetable Pickle (Kapoor, p.530)

12 Tbsp Mustard Oil 6 Tbsp coarsely ground ginger ¼ cup coarsely ground garlic 1 ½ Tbsp Ground Mustard 1 ½ Tbsp Red Chili Powder 1 ½ Tbsp Garam Masala 1 cup grated cane jaggery 1 ½ - 2 Tbsp Salt 1 lb. Cauliflower separated into bite sized pieces 1 lb Carrots 1 lb Turnips 3 Tbsp Vinegar

In a large nonstick skillet on medium heat, heat the mustard oil. When small bubbles form add ginger and garlic and sauté until barely toasted.

Add ground mustard, chili powder, and garam masala. Sautee for about 15 seconds until well incorporated. Add jaggery and salt and stir.

Add cauliflower, carrot, and turnips. Stir and cook 3-4 minutes or until vegetables start to soften. Remove from heat and cool completely. Stir in vinegar.

I chose to can mine via water canning and use within a month of making. One serving makes approximately 8 – 8 oz jars.

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Inji Malli (Ginger Coriander Chutney) Adaptation from www.kamalascorner.com/chutney/ginger-coriander-leaves- chutney.html

3-4 in piece of ginger, cleaned and peeled 1 ½ bunch of fresh cilantro (coriander) 3-4 small green chilis diced small (seeds in for spicier result) A large berry size of tamarind cut into small pieces 2 tsp oil Salt to taste

Wash ginger, scrape skin off, and grind into pulp.

Wash cilantro leaves and roughly chop.

In a frying pan, heat oil and add the ginger pulp. Fry until golden brown.

Add cut up chilies and fry for a few seconds.

Add Tamarind and fry for a few seconds.

Remove from heat and add chopped cilantro.

Add salt and grind to a paste (preferably in a food processor).

As you grind, add some water and 1 tsp more oil if the consistency is not what you want. Cool and can for longer term storage or cool and serve immediately.

This recipe makes 1 8-ounce jar (about 1 ½ - 2 Tables worth)

Lessons Learned: The consistency is very pasty, so for a thinner result, add more water and oil until you get the consistency you want without making to watery or to oily. The seeds make a big difference and adding them in does makes for a spicy end product.

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Kobbari louz (Coconut Jaggery Laddu) Adaptation of Swasthia Shreekkanth Recipes 2017

1.5 cups grated fresh coconut ¾ cup grated or powdered jaggery ¼ tsp cardamom powder 2 tsp ghee (with additional for palms) ¼ cup water

Shred or grate the fresh coconut (grated gave better results). Add jaggery and water to pan and melt on low.

Add ghee to a separate nonstick pan and heat on medium. Add coconut and fry for 2-3 minutes.

Add cardamom to jaggery syrup. Add syrup to coconut mixture and cook until moisture evaporates. You will see strings in the mixture (3-4 minutes).

Cool mixture. Grease palms with ghee and squeeze (do not roll) into jack ball size.

Recipe makes about 13 balls.

Fish Amritsari

1 pound Tilapia 1 cup gram flour 1 Tsp red chili powder ½ tsp salt 1 tsp carom seeds (Ajwain) 1 Tbsp. ginger paste 1 Tbsp. garlic paste 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 eggs 1 tsp. chaat masala Vegetable oil for frying

Mix all ingredients except chaat masala, gram flour, and egg. Combine flour and egg to make paste. Apply paste to fish and fry. Sprinkle with Chaat Masala and serve.

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Roasted Goat in spices Adaptation of kabob recipe

1 ½ pound goat loin or shank, bone in 1 Tbsp. Coriander 1 Tbsp. ginger paste 1 Tbsp. garlic paste 1 tsp red chili powder 1 tsp mango powder 1 tsp black pepper 1 tsp garam masala ½ tsp salt Ghee enough to cover for searing

Cover goat in ghee and sear on all sides. Mix together all spices. Cover seared meat in spice mixture. Roast at 375 degrees F turning every 15 minutes until internal temperature reaches 145-150 degrees.

Chicken Korma

2 pounds boneless/skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite sized pieces 16-ounce yogurt 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 ½ medium onion, chopped 1 tsp. black pepper 1 tsp salt 2 tsp fresh ginger, chopped 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 tsp. ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin ¼ tsp ground cardamom 1 tsp poppy seeds 1 tsp turmeric powder 1 bay leaf 2 Tbsp. fresh coriander/cilantro (1/2 bundle) for garnish on the side

Marinate cut up chicken in a mixture of yogurt, 1 clove of garlic, ginger, half the chopped onion, salt and pepper. Leave for at least 3 hours in refrigerator.

Heat oil in a large stew pot and sauté the rest of the onion and garlic. Add ground coriander, cumin, cardamom, poppy seeds, turmeric, bay leaf and fry for 24 a minute. Add chicken and marinade. Cook for 45 minutes until done. Serve with chopped coriander/cilantro on the side for garnish.

Daal (Dhal) Adaptation of recipe from Vegetarian Times, 2017

2 Tbsp. Canola or Vegetable Oil 3 tsp cumin seeds 2 tsp red pepper flakes 1 medium onion (1 ½ cups) 3 cloves garlic minced (3 tsp) 1 tsp salt 1 ½ cups yellow lentils, sorted and rinsed 2 cups vegetable broth 1 tsp ground turmeric Dash of Chaat Masala for garnish

Prep the lentils in accordance with manufacturer guidance but make sure they are rinsed and sorted to ensure there are no rocks, etc.

Heat oil in sauce pan over medium-high heat. Stir in cumin and red pepper flakes and sauté 1 minute. Add onion, garlic, and salt and sauté for another minute.

Add lentils, cooked spice mixture, 2 cups of water, 2 cups of broth and turmeric to the pressure cooker. Set to lentil setting and cook until done. If not soft enough, set for additional time if needed, but ensure there is enough moisture (broth) to support additional cooking. Sprinkle with chaat masala and serve hot.

Saag Paneer Adaptation of recipe from Aarti Sequerra

1 tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp red chili powder kosher salt 3 Tbsp + 1 ½ Tbsp vegetable oil 12-14-ounce paneer cut into small cubes 16 ounces frozen chopped spinach 1 medium yellow or white onion finely chopped 1 – 1in thumb of ginger peeled and minced (1 Tbsp) 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 large green chili finely chopped (variant of chili depends on flavor you want) 25

½ tsp garam masala 2 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin ½ cup yogurt

Thaw spinach, drain, and chop finely.

In medium bowl, whisk in 3 Tbsps. oil, turmeric, red chili powder, salt. Add cubed paneer into mixture and fold in the mixture gently until paneer is completely coated and set aside. Start warming a large pan to medium and add paneer during the heating process. Brown cheese slightly and remove to a plate. Add into the same pan, onion, garlic, ginger, and green chili and sauté for 15 minutes until thoroughly cooked (add 2 Tbsp water halfway through if it starts to seem like it’s drying out). Add garam masala, cumin, and coriander with 2 Tbsp water. Sauté 2-3 minutes. Add spinach and 1/4 cup water. Cook 5 minutes until incorporated. Remove from heat. Add yogurt a little at a time to prevent curdling. When yogurt is completely incorporated, add Paneer and gently fold into the spinach. Serve hot.

Dish of peas, onions, and mint with spices

3 cups of frozen peas, thawed 1 ½ Tbsp oil ¾ tsp cumin seeds 2 tsp ginger ½ white onion 1 tsp salt ¼ tsp black pepper 2 Tbsp mint Chopped (about 1 -.66-ounce container) 2 tsp. lemon juice

Ensure peas are thawed and drained (pat dry).

Heat oil, adding cumin seeds, onion and ginger. Cook until onion is soft. Add in peas and salt and cook 4-5 minutes or until peas are tender. Add pepper and chopped mint and mix well, being careful not to break the peas.

Turn off heat, add lemon juice, stir and serve hot.

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Chicken Biryani

Marinade 1 pound boneless skinless chicken thighs 3.5 ounces Indian yogurt 1 tsp garam masala 1 tsp fresh ginger paste 1 tsp fresh garlic paste 1 tsp turmeric powder 1 tsp lemon juice

1 pound Basmati rice 2 Tbsp ghee ¼ tsp ground cardamom ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp cumin seeds 2 bay leaves 1 white onion, thinly sliced 1 tsp green chili paste or green chilies finely chopped 1 bundle of cilantro 1 bunch mint 1 tsp red chili powder 1-2 cups water Salt to taste

Chop chicken into bite sized pieces. Mix the marinade ingredients together, adding the chicken, fully coating. Cover and set aside in fridge to soak for at least an hour.

Soak rice in a bowl with enough water to cover by about an inch above rice line for at least 20 minutes. Drain water before adding to the dish.

Separately slice onion and chop cilantro, mint. Set aside.

In a large pot or deep skillet, or using the sauté option on your pressure cooker, heat the ghee. Add cumin seeds, cinnamon, cardamom, and bay leaves until fragrant.

To the spices, add the sliced onions, green chili paste, and cook until onions are soft.

Add to pot red chili powder and salt to taste (can add that later) and cook to incorporate. 27

Add the chicken and all marinade to the skillet and cook until chicken starts to brown (but not cook thoroughly.

Place drained rice, cooked chicken marinade and spices from pot into pressure cooker. Add chopped cilantro, mint, and 1 cup of water to start. If the rice is not cooked enough, it may need an additional cup after first cooking cycle. My pressure cooker has a “rice/risotto” setting and generally cooks at that setting for 6 minutes once it reached pressure. Original recipe calls for 2 whistles on a stove top pressure cooker. If you use only one cup of water and the rice seems underdone at the end of the cycle, you can stir mixture, add 1 more cup of water and run for another 6-min cycle (pressure cooker times may vary).

Release pressure cooker appropriately depending on model before opening completely. Fluff the mixture. Can garnish with coriander leaves as well.

Gulab Jamun Recipe from Selvaraju

1 cup milk powder 5 Tbsp all-purpose flour ¼ tsp baking powder pinch of salt 2 Tbsp of butter, melted 6 Tbsp liquid milk Ghee for hands 2 cups water 1 ½ cup sugar ½ teaspoon rose water Pinch of Saffron Vegetable oil for frying

Combine powdered milk, flour, baking powder, and salt in large bowl. Add melted butter and milk and gently incorporate, being careful not to overwork the dough. Form into a ball of dough and set aside.

Prepare syrup by adding water and sugar to medium heat and simmer until sugar dissolves. Add rose water and saffron and simmer until incorporated. Remove from heat but ensure it stays hot.

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Heat oil in frying pan to about 250 degrees F, deep enough that the balls will float in oil. Grease hands with ghee and gently form into dough balls about ½ inch big. Don’t overwork the dough. Fry dough balls in oil for about 5-7 minutes until they are dark brown. Once color is reached, remove each ball individually and drop onto paper towel to remove some oil and immediately put directly into hot syrup. Allow to soak for at least 20 minutes, but the longer the better. May be served hot or at room temperature.

Serve in the syrup.

Galar Halwa Adapted from recipe from Indian Food Forever.

2.2 pounds orange carrots .25 gallon milk 1 tsp cardamom 1 cup water 3 Tbsp ghee 1 pound sugar Raisins and slivered almonds for garnish (served separately)

Wash and grate carrots. Bring water to boil. Once boiling, add carrots. Cook 5-7 minutes and drain. Add milk. Cook on low heat for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Add sugar, mix and cook until sugar is dissolved and milk is absorbed. If the carrots are soft but there is still milk not absorbed, ok to drain off excess milk. Add ghee simmer 2-3 minutes. Add Cardamom and stir. Although can be served cold, it is better hot and fresh. Serve with Raisins and Slivered almonds for garnish.

Khubani Ka Meetha (Stewed Apricots) with Mishti Doi (sweet cream) Adapted from recipe from Sukanya and Sarkar https://www.thespruce.com/mishti- doi-sweet-yoghurt-1957832

60 dried apricots (pit if needed after soaking) 4 Tbsp sugar 2 Tsp cardamom 1 Tsp cinnamon 2 Tsp fresh lemon juice

Soak apricots overnight in water enough to cover apricots completely.

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Heat apricots and water together after soaking. Add cardamom and cinnamon and stir. Add lemon. Stir. Add sugar. Stir. Keep stirring on low heat until it reaches a stewed consistency.

Mash if there are large parts of the apricots that haven’t broken down completely. Chill and serve cold.

Mishti Doi (sweet cream)

1 liter full cream /whole milk 3-4 Tbsp. Yogurt 8 ounces sugar

Boil milk in a heavy pot on medium flame until it’s reduced to half its volume. Stir frequently to avoid scorching. Cool milk until it’s luke warm.

Put sugar in a separate pan and heat over low flame and allow to melt and caramelize until brown. Remove from heat and add reduced milk, mixing well. Once thoroughly mixed, add yogurt and mix well. Pour into desired container and keep in warm dark spot to allow to set. When set and firm, chill and serve with Apricots.