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Das Einstige Persien Zwischen Tradition Und Moderne Peter

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Das Einstige Persien Zwischen Tradition Und Moderne Peter Peter Kerber IRANDas einstige Persien zwischen Tradition und Moderne Mit großer Übersichtskarte 5. aktualisierte und erweiterte Auflage 2018 Trescher Verlag Reinhardtstr. 9 10117 Berlin www.trescher-verlag.de ISBN 978-3-89794-739-9 Herausgegeben von Bernd Schwenkros und Detlev von Oppeln Reihenentwurf und Gesamtgestaltung: Bernd Chill Gestaltung, Satz, Bildbearbeitung: Ulla Nickl Lektorat: Sabine Fach Stadtpläne und Karten: Johann Maria Just, Martin Kapp, Ulla Nickl Das Werk einschließlich seiner Teile ist urhe- berrechtlich geschützt. Jede Verwertung ist ohne Zustimmung des Verlages unzulässig. Dies gilt insbesondere für den Aushang, Ver- vielfältigungen, Übersetzungen, Nachahmun- gen, Mikroverfilmung und die Einspeicherung und Verarbeitung in elektronischen Systemen. Alle Angaben in diesem Reiseführer wurden sorgfältig recherchiert und überprüft. Dennoch können Entwicklungen vor Ort dazu führen, dass einzelne Informationen nicht mehr aktuell sind. Gerne nehmen wir dazu Ihre Hinweise und Anregungen entgegen. Bitte schreiben Sie an [email protected]. HINWEIS ZUR BENUTZUNG: Die Seitenzahlen im Inhaltsverzeichnis, Verweise im Text und das Register sind mit den dazu gehörigen Texten und Karten dieses Reiseführers verlinkt. Die Internetadressen öffnen sich in Ihrem Browser; die Emailadressen öffnen sich in Ihrem Emailprogramm. Bitte beachten Sie, dass bei entsprechender Nutzung im Ausland Roaminggebühren anfallen. Titelfoto: Grabmal des Dichters Hafis in Shiraz (→ S. 502) LAND UND LEUTE STADT UND PROVINZ TEHERAN DER NORDEN DIE LANDESMITTE DER OSTEN DER SÜDEN REISETIPPS VON A BIS Z ANHANG 4 KomInhalt Vorwort 13 Die schönsten Reiseziele 14 Hinweise zur Benutzung 16 Das Wichtigste in Kürze 18 Routenvorschläge und wichtige Sehenswürdigkeiten 20 LAND UND LEUTE 23 Iran im Überblick 24 Geographie 25 Landschaften 25 Binnengewässer 26 Klima und Reisezeiten 27 Bewässerung 28 Vegetation 30 Die Tierwelt 33 Umweltsituation 38 Geschichte 40 Vorgeschichte 40 Elam 42 Dynastien und wichtige Herrscher 48 Vorachämenidische Reiche 49 Das achämenidische Weltreich 50 Die Seleukiden 52 Das parthische Reich 52 Das sassanidische Reich 52 Die arabische Eroberung 54 Die Abbasiden 55 Die Seldschuken 56 Das ilkhanidische Reich 59 Die Timuriden 60 Die Safawiden 61 Das 18. und 19. Jahrhundert 63 Die Pahlavi-Dynastie 66 Die Revolution von 1979 69 Die Zeit nach Khomeini 72 Der Iran heute 75 Zeittafel 76 Der iranische Staat 77 Bevölkerung 77 Staatsform 79 Wirtschaft 82 InhaltKom 5 Religion und Gesellschaft 90 Der Islam 90 Nichtislamische Religionen 97 Bildung und Wissenschaft 99 Gesellschaftliche Lage 99 Verhaltensweisen 102 Kultur und Kunst 103 Architektur 103 Literatur 107 Kunstgewerbe 109 Film 112 Musik 113 Sport 114 Speisen und Getränke 115 STADT UND PROVINZ TEHERAN 119 Moderne Weltstadt Teheran 120 Geschichte der Stadt 120 Orientierung 123 Die Metro 123 Golestan-Palast 125 Rund um den Großen Basar 127 Nationalmuseum 131 Juwelenmuseum 134 Masoudieh-Palast 135 Museen im Park-e Laleh 136 Nördlich des Zentrums 137 Saadabad-Palastanlage 142 Niavaran-Palastanlage 144 Kulturzentren und Theater 144 Das moderne Teheran 146 Stätten religiöser Minderheiten 149 Teheran-Informationen 152 Die Umgebung von Teheran 165 Ausflug zum Tochal 165 Skigebiete 165 Stadtfriedhof Behesht-e Zahra 166 Rey 167 Varamin 171 Damavand-Gebirge 173 Karaj 177 6 KomInhalt DER NORDEN 179 Stadt und Provinz Qazvin 180 Geschichte der Stadt Qazvin 180 Sehenswürdigkeiten in Qazvin 180 Alamut-Tal 190 Überquerung des Elburz- Höhenkamms 193 Semiran 196 Kharaqan-Grabtürme 197 Von Qazvin nach Süden 198 Ozbaki 198 Stadt und Provinz Zanjan 199 Stadt Zanjan 199 Soltaniye 201 Ausflug nach Westen 204 West-Azerbaijan 206 Bevölkerung 206 Takht-e Soleiman 208 Umgebung von Takht-e Soleiman 212 Bukan und Mahabad 214 Hasanlu 216 Orumiyeh (Urmia) 219 Salmas und Umgebung 224 Khoy 225 Bastam 226 Thaddäuskloster 227 Maku und Bazargan 231 Tabriz und Ost-Azerbaijan 232 Geschichte der Stadt Tabriz 232 Sehenswürdigkeiten in Tabriz 234 Stephanus-Kloster 245 Kandovan 247 Östlicher Orumiyeh (Urmia)-See 247 Maragheh 248 Arasbaran-Naturschutzgebiet 254 Zwischen Tabriz und Zanjan 255 Stadt und Provinz Ardabil 258 Geschichte der Stadt Ardabil 259 Sheikh-Safi-Heiligtum 259 Weitere Sehenswürdigkeiten 262 InhaltKom 7 Das Sabalan-Gebirge 265 Talesh-Region 267 Rasht und die Provinz Gilan 269 Geschichte der Stadt Rasht 269 Sehenswürdigkeiten in Rasht 270 Die Umgebung von Rasht 276 Bandar Anzali und das Mordab 278 Die Provinz Mazanderan 283 Ramsar und Umgebung 283 Zwischen Chalus und Nur 285 Kelardasht-Hochebene 286 Amol und Babol 288 Sari und Umgebung 289 Die Provinz Golestan 294 Bandar-e Torkaman 295 Gorgan 296 Die Umgebung von Gorgan 298 Gonbad-e Kavus 300 Durch die Turkmansahra 302 Golestan-Nationalpark 305 DIE LANDESMITTE 307 Stadt und Provinz Qom 308 Qom 308 Das Heiligtum der Fatemeh Masumeh 310 Grabtürme 313 Weitere Sehenswürdigkeiten 317 Die Umgebung von Qom 319 Die Provinz Markazi 322 Arak 322 Mahallat 322 Teymareh-Felszeichnungen 322 Khomeyn 323 Saveh 324 Stadt und Provinz Isfahan 326 Isfahan 326 Geschichte der Stadt 327 Imam-Platz 330 8 KomInhalt Großer Basar 336 Chehel-Sotun-Palast 338 Chahar-Bagh-Straße 339 Die Brücken 340 Nördlich des Zentrums 342 Südlich des Flusses 348 Weitere Sehenswürdigkeiten 351 Taubentürme 352 Weiterfahrt nach Teheran 352 Isfahan-Informationen 353 Die Umgebung Isfahans 361 Zur Mündung des Zayandehrud 361 Pir Bakran 363 Shahr-e Kord und Bakhtiari- Nomaden 365 Rund um Chelgerd 365 Rund um Shahreza 367 Richtung Nain und Dasht-e Kavir 367 Westliche Dasht-e Kavir 369 Rund um Natanz 371 Kashan 373 Die Umgebung von Kashan 380 Stadt und Provinz Yazd 382 Yazd 382 Die Umgebung von Yazd 395 Die Wüste Dasht-e Kavir 399 Sehenswürdigkeiten in Hamadan 403 Die Umgebung von Hamadan 408 Die Provinz Kermanshah 411 Kangavar 411 Bisotun 412 Taq-e Bostan 415 Die Stadt Kermanshah 417 Richtung irakische Grenze 422 Die Provinz Kordestan 425 Sanandaj 425 Die Umgebung von Sanandaj 426 Die Provinz Ilam 428 Ilam 428 Über Dehloran nach Darrehshahr 429 InhaltKom 9 Die Provinz Lorestan 430 Khorramabad 430 Die Umgebung von Khorrama- bad 432 Die Eisenbahnstrecke Dorud–Andimeshk 432 Oshtoran-Gebirge 433 DER OSTEN 437 Stadt und Provinz Kerman 438 Die Stadt Kerman 438 Sehenswürdigkeiten 440 Die Umgebung von Kerman 445 Bam 449 Die Wüste Lut 451 Stadt und Provinz Semnan 453 Semnan 453 Die Umgebung von Semnan 454 Damghan 457 Shahrud 461 Bastam 462 Die Provinz Khorasan 464 Sabzevar 464 Neyshabur 464 Umgebung von Neyshabur 466 Mashhad 467 Die Umgebung von Mashhad 475 Rundreise ab Mashhad in südwestliche Richtung 480 Von Mashhad Richtung Süden 483 Birjand 483 Die Provinz Sistan und Belutschestan 485 Zahedan 486 Von Zahedan nach Zabol 488 Chabahar 490 DER SÜDEN 493 Die Provinz Fars 494 Shiraz 496 Masjed-e Jame Atiq 500 10 KomInhalt Eram-Garten 502 Shiraz-Informationen 507 Persepolis 511 Naqsh-e Rostam 518 Pasargadae 520 Sarvistan und Neyriz 523 Firuzabad und Umgebung 523 Bishapur 525 Felsreliefs nördlich von Bishapur 527 Margun-Wasserfall 527 Darab-Gegend 528 Die Provinz Khuzestan 530 Ahvaz (Ahwaz) 530 Chogha Zanbil 532 Haft Tepe 533 Susa (Shush) 534 Shushtar 537 Khorramshahr 539 Abadan 540 Masjed-e Soleyman 540 Nördlich der Strecke Shiraz– Ahvaz 541 Izeh 542 Die Provinzen am Persischen Golf 544 Bushehr 544 Die Umgebung von Bushehr 546 Bandar Abbas 547 Umgebung von Bandar Abbas 551 Insel Qeshm 553 Insel Kish 558 REISETIPPS VON A BIS Z 561 Hinweise für Individualreisende 569 Sprachführer 580 Glossar 586 Der iranische Kalender 590 Literatur 594 Über den Autor 596 Register 597 Bildnachweis 606 Kartenregister 607 Karten- und Zeichenlegende 608 InhaltKom 11 EXTRAS Nationalparks und Schutzgebiete 36 Die Seidenstraße 89 Theologen, Philosophen und Mystiker 96 Rezepte 116 Zurkhaneh 141 Die kaspische Region 282 Die schiitischen Geistlichen 316 Polo 335 Apadana – Audienzpalast 516 Ausstattung und Herkunft der Delegationen 517 12 Kom Das Sheikh-Safi-Heiligtum in Ardebil Vorwort 13 Vorwort Des Lebens Karawane zieht so schnell dahin und jeder Tag ohne Freud’ ist ewiger Verlust. Omar Khayyam Der Iran oder Persien, wie das Land bis 1935 hieß, gehört zu den zentralen Län- dern an der ehemaligen Seidenstraße. Hier trafen sich viele Kulturen und brach- ten eine der ältesten Zivilisationen der Menschheit hervor. Wiederholt integrier- ten sich Angehörige der verschiedensten Völker: Griechen, Araber, Seldschuken, Turkmenen, Mongolen, Armenier und andere. Bedeutende Reisende durchquer- ten den Iran wie Marco Polo, Sven Hedin und der Wüstenforscher Alfons Gabriel. Der Iran war und ist ein Land der Gegensätze, nicht nur im politischen und sozialen Sinne. Seine teilweise grandiosen Landschaften reichen von ewigem Schnee bis zu subtropischen Küsten, von Wüsten bis zu gemäßigten Regionen mit üppiger Vegetation. Die moderne Metropole Teheran mit über acht Millionen Einwohnern, Hochhäusern und Schnellstraßen kontrastiert besonders mit Isfa- han und Yazd, deren Zentren noch einheitliche orientalische Stadtbilder bieten. Die Iraner unterscheiden sich nicht nur durch die schiitische Glaubensrich- tung von den mehrheitlich sunnitischen Arabern, sondern auch dadurch, dass Farsi zu den indogermanischen Sprachen gehört. Bei Gebildeten gibt es eine weitverbreitete Rückbesinnung auf die vorislamische Geschichte. Man ist sich bewusst, dass Persien vor 2500 Jahren eine religiös tolerante Weltmacht war und von Indien bis Ägypten herrschte. Nach der arabischen Eroberung gab es einen nachhaltigen persischen Einfluss auf islamische Kultur und Architektur. Die Religiosität
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