Black History Month: Mentoring Matters

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Untitled-13 1 2/16/21 3:48 PM FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 22, 2021 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM CONTENTS

30 Earth & Beyond 32 Double Take INSIDER FEATURES Why Earth Inc. is These fall ’21 waterproof helping to reintroduce shoes have both style 9 Guiding 18 Cozy Up the Tamaris label to and substance. Lights How core slipper American consumers. Why mentorship is key brands are capitalizing 33 First Look on the comfort boom for Black founders 31 Burning A new footwear brand and facing o against looking to break in. Question is tapping into the newcomers Does making wellness walking 12 NYFW Wrap sustainable product movement. It was anything but always have to cost usual, but the mostly- FN STYLE more? virtual week had some FN PICK 22 A-Pair-itif key takeways. Dressing for happy hour at home requires a 34 State of 14 FN Insights very di erent wardrobe. Emergency Could the next big Texa s continues to fashion trend be grapple with the impact completely digital? THE LIST of brutal winter weather. 29 Shoe of the Week The Original Muck Boot Company is geared up for a new adventure.

ON THE COVER Photographed by 18 JOSHUA SCOTT

“we possess an authentic heritage in slippers. it was expected that in a work-from-home capacity UGG OF we would see more business.” — UGG PRESIDENT ANDREA O’DONNELL ON THE SLIPPER BOOM COURTESY PHOTO:

3 ootwearnews.com A S N E A K P E E K AT S O M E O F O U R B E S T U P C O M I N G C O N T E N T.

STORIES GALLERIES VIDEOS

THE BEST March is Women’s History Month OF MILAN INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY: Week of Feb. 22 INSIDE RETAIL’S As Italy continues to grapple with high PROGRESS coronavirus case Week of March 8 numbers, the global This annual event aims fashion industry to celebrate women and will meet virtually track their personal and for a digital Milan professional advancement. Fashion Week. To mark the occasion, FN Follow FN for all investigates whether the the highlights from fashion industry — with its the new collections. large share of female workers — holds the key to gender parity in the workplace. Plus, Prada spring ’21 how it can help women get ready-to-wear ahead amid the global crisis, which has disproportionately hurt minorities.

HOW BOSTON- BASED BRANDS CAN OVERCOME THE CITY’S RACIST HISTORY & RECRUIT MORE PEOPLE OF COLOR Week of March 15 Amid a racial reckoning across the country, scores of shoe companies are stepping up and implementing programs to diversify

their workforce at all levels. But ADOBE OTHERS: in Boston — a mecca for footwear ﬁ rms, from Rockport to Reebok, Converse and New Balance — attracting a diverse workforce is more challenging due to the city’s history with racism. FN explores how companies are tackling these issues and whether remote work, which is gaining steam amid COVID-19, can help. ALL WWD; GIANNONI FOR GIOVANNI PRADA: PHOTOS:

Black History BHM was ﬁ rst observed during 124,004 a week in February 1926 that 48.2 Million Month: Fast Facts The number of Black-owned businesses in the encompassed the birthdays of The Black population, either alone or SOURCE: THE U.S. CENSUS BUREAU U.S. as of 2017, a number that has undoubtedly both Abraham Lincoln and in combination with one or more been impacted by the global health crisis. 1926 Frederick Douglass. races, in the United States in 2019. Untitled-7 1 1/27/21 4:27 PM POWERED BY LABS

Influencer Bethany Everett shows the Torrent is a natural fit on city streets.

Wolverine: It’s What Women Want

With over a century of experience in crafting the best in men’s work boots, Wolverine has now turned its eye to the women’s outdoor market – and discovered it’s a perfect fit.

market. While trends may come and go, brand stick, we would have to enter and win THE VOICE OF WOLVERINE’S function remains a key consideration in any CUSTOMERS in the women’s market.” footwear purchase; with Wolverine, shop- This market differs from the men’s in pers can be confident that every pair will several ways, including requiring a different perform as needed. This guarantee is born physical construction. But one of the most from years of product development, design I think this is important distinctions is the emphasis that refinement and consumer research – and the women’s market tends to place on bal- this is exactly the same approach that the way better. Love ancing function with aesthetics. Shoes can’t olverine has brand is applying to its latest launch: wom- the colors and just perform as needed; they have to also been designing work boots since 1883, mak- en’s outdoor boots. fabrics used on fulfill a style requirement, in order to be the Wing it synonymous with trusted craftsman- “We‘ve found that, considering our pick of choice. ship. The namesake brand in the Wolverine roots in work boots, our brand awareness these boots. This Worldwide portfolio has honed its reputa- among outdoor consumers is high,” said An Outdoor Adventure tion as the go-to source for comfortable work Andy Shripka, VP of Wolverine Market- is what I expected The soon-to-be launching Torrent women’s wear, with customers gravitating towards the ing. “This creates a valuable opportunity to see more of.” duck boot is new territory for Wolverine, promise of quality and performance. for us to enter the space. Women account —Shenika M., Oklahoma City, OK but the brand is well-suited to the task. The That name recognition allows Wolver- for a majority of the seasonal boot market company’s footwear experience meant that ine to command a powerful position in the and we knew that if we wanted to make our Wolverine had a solid framework to build

FNLABS_WOLVERINE.inddUntitled-1 1 2 2/18/212/17/21 12:12 4:17 PMPM on. But the team also knew that, while they THE VOICE OF WOLVERINE’S THE VOICE OF WOLVERINE’S boots,” said Shripka. “To be successful could hit the ground running in terms of CUSTOMERS CUSTOMERS we’re going to have to be relevant; to be outdoor protection and performance, win- relevant we need a following that believes ning in this category would rely on design- in and endorses our product. We are working something that resonated aesthetically ing with those who have raised their hand with the end consumer. There are I expected the because they understand us and have a pas- “Dedicating an outdoor boot to women boots to be rugged sion for the brand.” is a tall challenge for a historically men’s certainly more Available in striking ivory, olive, g rey, brand,” said Shripka. “It’s a competitive varieties than I but was pleasantly cognac and black, the Torrent wraps space with several established brands, so we surprised at Wolverine’s 138 years of innovation in wanted to make sure we got it right. To do expected! And on a fashionable package that has immedi- that, we needed a deep level of feedback balance I would say the amount of ately resonated with shoppers. And once from our core target: women. Building a variation and the brand has made that immediate aes- women’s boot that is both functional and these look slightly thetic connection, it can support that prod- stylish… That took some time and patience less industrial and variety in the boot uct appeal with the technical performance to ensure we got it right.” options. I love the and function that women still want from Consumer satisfaction has always been more fashionable their footwear. a priority for Wolverine, which is why the than I would have different colors team assembled a group of 36 women for available.” New Horizons the initial round of feedback, before speak- guessed as well.” Women’s outdoor is a new frontier for Wol- ing with another 350 women for a second —Maureen B., Saint Paul, MN —Kayleen W., Brookline, MA verine, but not one that the team takes lightly. stage of insights. The risk of expanding into Rather, it feels like the natural progression a new category is always high, even when a after decades spent developing and refin- brand is as established as Wolverine. But to Torrent’s appeal, as well as a broader theme as well as its fashionable edge, Wolver- ing their existing core collections. The brand launch a successful women’s collection, Wol- of the entire outdoor collection. The Wolver- ine chose to take a new approach with its already knew it could craft shoes that could verine needs a product line that succeeds in ine team understood immediately that these product discovery. Selecting a few special be walked in all day long, in extreme condi- an entirely new area for the brand: fash- boots would not just be used for specific out- partners, the brand shared limited release tions. But now it’s learning that it can also ion-forward style. door activities, but would need to function as product during the peak winter season so look fashionable at the same time. By speaking directly with women from well in an urban setting – albeit one expe- that these women could style and wear the “We believe the brand is a great fit in the the earliest product development stages, riencing inclement weather – as they did Torrent in its natural environment. Through outdoor space,” said Tom Kennedy, Global Wolverine was able to ensure that they on a mountainside. Women who commute this influencer campaign, potential customers Brand President at Wolverine. “There are remained aligned with what their customer through the elements and then need to hit the can see the boots in action – and see them- certainly some great competitors already in truly wanted. The Torrent features a rug- ground running need shoes that can keep up. selves in the styles. place, but we know we have the brand and ged lug outsole for superior grip, a vulca- The Torrent does just that. “We’re not interested in just paying a the know-how to succeed and will be giving nized rubber shell for elemental protection, To demonstrate this practical sensibility, group of people to take pictures with our it our best effort in the future.” and a fleece inner lining for unparalleled

coziness. A slight heel provides style value, The Torrent combines while waterproof leather ensures feet stay a rubber shell with dry while looking good. waterproof leather for total elemental protection. Based on the initial reactions of their focus groups, it seems like the brand is onto a winner. “Much, much better than I had expected!” said Melody G., a 43-year-old consumer in Selah, Washington. “I expected to see more dark leather big boots for men but I actually saw some really cute, trendy and feminine type boots that I could see myself wearing on many occasions.”

Surprise Style Considering Wolverine’s existing collections, many of the women expected to see more work-focused and monochro- matic offerings, but the feedback consis- tently highlighted the range of colorways and sleeker silhouettes available in the new outdoor collection. Hannah M. praised the balance of fashion with waterproof and tread features, while Stephanie C. could see use cases in both everyday wear and outdoor leisure. This versatility is a crucial piece of the

For more information about sponsored opportunities, please contact Sandi Mines at [email protected] 7

FNLABS_WOLVERINE.inddUntitled-1 1 3 2/18/212/17/21 12:28 4:17 PMPM www.muk-luks.com

Untitled-18 1 2/16/21 6:53 PM NYFW WRAP It was anything but normal, but this season still had some key takeaways. 12

FN INSIGHTS How the fashion industry is competing INSIDER the gaming world. 14 THE BIG STORY9 FASHION WEEK12 FN INSIGHTS14 FOOTWEAR NEWS

“While ﬁ nancial // capital is still FEBRUARY one of the big challenges, it “I’m from the projects sometimes and made a way for

overshadows myself. Now I’m trying 22, the fact that there’s to kick the door open to this huge gap in kids still in the projects to 2021 access to inﬂ uential Guiding understand how they can

relationships.” make a way for themselves.” // — Shelly Bell Lights — James Whitner FOOTWEARNEWS.COM Major retailers have pledged to stock more Black-owned brands. Consumers have vowed to buy them. But for these founders to achieve long-term success, mentoring is critical.

BY KATIE ABEL EXECUTIVES

OF “For me, “I’m not here to education is make [designers] America’s key to famous. I want them getting through our to understand racial problems.” the business.”

COURTESY PHOTOS: — Treis Hill — Bethann Hardison

9 THE BIG STORY

Salone Monet trying to break through. ers and understand what the needs are for Black got her start at She has seen every side of the businesses to be successful long term.” a shoe store in Washington, D.C. fashion industry and is well aware of the obstacles. Hardison got her start STEPPING UP working in the Garment District, was The call for action has never been clearer or a pioneering Black fashion model in louder — and this month, several major companies the 1970s and later owned her own unveiled new mentoring-centric programs to help modeling agency. Black founders build brands with longevity. “I constantly tell people, ‘Not Fast-growing digital retailer Revolve said everyone is going to make it.’ The it would dedicate a new section of its site to fashion island is only a certain size, showcasing Black-owned and designed brands — and there are so many designers. But and all of those talents would have access to the the island isn’t getting any bigger.” company’s just-launched mentorship program Through her platform, Hardison that focuses on the fundamentals of growing challenges the creatives she works and scaling a business. with to ask themselves the right “We’ve been evaluating how we can use questions as they formulate their our strengths and resources, and help make strategy: Do they have the infrastruc- a substantial and long-lasting impact to fight ture to build a direct-to-consumer inequality,” Michael Mente, Revolve’s co-CEO and platform? Is retail the right path? co-founder, told FN. “Black-owned and operated How can they effectively wholesale? brands are far too often overlooked in the fashion “I’m not here to make them famous. industry when it comes to receiving the resources I want them to understand the busi- and platform needed to build out vital parts of ness,” Hardison said. “There are so their business. We want to help change this. We many young talents out there who don’t are uniquely positioned because we’re able to have anyone to advise them.” provide our emerging brands with invaluable During Black History Month 2021, information across different aspects of their FOOTWEARNEWS.COM mentoring and education programs business that are imperative to their growth.” //

have entered the spotlight as compa- Other companies are teaming up with estab-

2021 nies take their initial commitments lished organizations that support Black founders. around equality to the next level. These efforts Nike pledged $500,000 to Black Girl Ventures, its 22 , When rising are critical as the pandemic continues to impact newest partner focused on economic empower- designer Black businesses disproportionally, due in part to ment. The athletic giant’s investment will support Salone lack of credit and access to the Paycheck Protec- Black Girl Ventures’ mission to provide Black and FEBRUARY tion Program and other government funding. (A Brown women founders with access to “commu-

// Monet was new round of PPP, worth about $284.45 billion and nity, capital and capacity-building.” developing approved last December, is specifically targeted “While the financial capital is one of the

NEWS toward minority-owned businesses, many of which biggest challenges, it sometimes overshadows her footwear collection did not qualify for the first batch of loans.) the fact that there’s still this huge gap in access — aimed at serving In the last nine months, there has been some to influential relationships. The money notable progress among corporations, as America’s actually comes from relationships,” said Shelly

FOOTWEAR women of color who racial reckoning continues. In the wake of George Bell, founder and CEO of Black Girl Ventures. couldn’t find nude styles Floyd’s murder, companies, organizations and In an effort to fuel those kinds of valuable to match their skin tones individuals moved quickly to enact new equality connections, Joor’s new mentoring program initiatives — both within their own ranks and to brings Black brands together with the wholesal- — she turned to a trusted support the broader Black community. ing platform’s network of more than 300,000 source for advice again Meanwhile, consumers rallied around #Buy- retailers in at least 40 countries. Black, and big retailers such as Nordstrom and To make it happen, Joor joined forces with and again: model, actress Macy’s stepped up their commitments to stocking RAISEfashion, a collective of seasoned industry and activist Bethann and supporting Black-owned brands. Much of the leaders formed in 2020. The group offers expertise Hardison. immediate action was a direct result of Aurora to emerging Black talent and, in partnership with James’ 15 Percent Pledge, which signed on Gap Inc. Harlem’s Fashion Row, will pick designers who will “I was getting a lot of mentorship from Bethann. this month after joining forces with Macy’s, West receive complimentary access to the Joor system She pulled together a group of people in the Elm and Sephora in 2020. and have a platform to present their collections. industry that I could email or text whenever While getting Black brands in the door is a big In addition, the labels will receive training on best I had any questions,” recalled Monet, who step, James and other leaders believe the next part practices to grow their wholesale businesses. launched the business in 2018. For the designer of the conversation is equally as important. “Black brands are at a disadvantage when it — who counts Beyoncé as a fan — being part of “It’s already tough for a new business to start comes to breaking into the retail industry,” said Hardison’s Designers Hub platform also paved if you’re anyone — to get financing, to put a team Divya Mathur, a RAISEfashion advisory board the way for some unexpected funding during together, to make sure you connect to the con- member and chief merchant at Intermix. “With a pandemic that has presented endless chal- sumer the right way — all those things,” said James partnerships like the one with Joor, RAISEfash-

lenges. Last fall, Monet was one of 10 recipients Whitner, founder and owner of The Whitaker ion is able to offer both the mentorship and

who received a grant from CFDA/Vogue Fashion Group. “But when you’re a Black business, it’s digital platform to successfully connect Black MONET Fund’s “A Common Thread” initiative, supported tough because you don’t have the same support designers with prospective retailers to improve OF by Tom Ford International. infrastructure. A big responsibility goes back to a overall representation.” For years, Hardison has been working behind lot of the publicly-traded companies and equity Sergio Hudson — whose eponymous founder the scenes to guide young Black talents who are funds and banks to lock in on their Black consum- had a breakout moment when he dressed both COURTESY PHOTO:

10 PHOTO: COURTESY OF MONET FN SPEAD SINGLETEMPLATE.indd 1 Among theinitiatives isatie-upwithPensole, the Month.forms andprograms duringBlackHistory plat- roles by2030—announcedaseriesofnew andabove of color(BIPOC)withinitsdirector representation forBlack,Indigenous andpeople andcorporate America,[thebetter].”industry college andgrowdothingsinthefootwear neighborhoods, andencouragego themto communitiesand Americans inunderdeveloped morewecaneducate African the initiative. “The of aspart ters onanHBCUhoodiescollection Treis Hill, whocollaborated withUrban Outfit- through ourracial problems,” saidAlifepartner mentoring willcontinue,thecompany said. ters team.Andoncetheinternshipisover, the one mentoringfrommembersoftheUrban Outfit- get will internship program, wherethey HBCUs. ina10-week willparticipate students The fromeachoffiveparticipating onestudent selects aprogram that ’21, launched UOSummerClass the industry. Urban Outfitters, has forexample, ing oncollege whohaven’t students entered yet at to jointheprogram. additional groupofupto25Black-ownedlabels Every sixmonths,RAISEfashion willnominate an round. forthefirst is oneofthebrands selected President KamalaHarris fortheinauguration — ladyMichelleformer first Vice Obamaandnew thebeginningoftheircareers,othersarefocus- 25% VF Corp.—whichaspirestoachieve “Education, forme,isAmerica’skey designers While somecompaniesaretargeting togetting one-on- to

get advise peoplewhowantto group’s “Free Game” educational seriestohelp In Whitner said. a way forthemselves,” Whitaker Group’s The howtomake understand intheprojects kids still myself. Now, I’m tokickthedooropenso trying While companiesbigandsmallaretakingupthe PAYING IT —BETHANN “I unique paths inbusiness. theirown tors areBlackfounderswhohave carved men- mantle ofchange, effective someofthemost the community. within theorganization, aswellindividualsin tomentoringBIPOCemployees per quarter prenticeship program. inayear-longVFap- toparticipate opportunity capable designers,theyoungtalentswillearn theminto thatmasterclass willhelpdevelop and Vans inaPensole participating brands. After toVF’sstudents North Face Timberland,The collaborationThe willintroduceBlackandBrown Edwards. design academy foundedbyD’wayne IS PEOPLE, CONSTANTLY “I’m andmadeaway fromtheprojects for VF’s GOING VPs arealsocommitting threehours HARDISON FORWARD theretail 2020,Whitnergrew EVERYONE ‘NOT TO MAKE TELL inthe started IT’” T.’ I

With contributionsfrom Peter Verry andNikara Johns. that have beentoughforme.” get neurs tohelpthem withothersmallBlackentrepre- about partnering community narrative,” hesaid.“It’s going tobe Free Game,butit’s aboutpickingupouroverall “We’re level. to thenext sneaker industry. Now, hewantstotake that idea “We his business. close friendAurora James inthefledglingdays of FNAAsvirtual inDecember, herecalledleaningon thepowerofbuildingacommunity.stands Atthe at and globalcreative director longer way togo.” yearslater,Thirty it’s gotten better, butthere’s a thanIgot into?’create amorediverseindustry outtodo— ‘DidIdothejobset to understand, Idodecidetoleavesaid. “When completely, Iwant that’sfound it.“That’s thepart drivingmenow,” he his goal wastoleave thebusinessbetter thanhe asadesigner, theindustry said that whenheleft ties,” hetoldJames. and hadplacedfacesnamespersonali- cause, youhadalreadygone throughtheyearbook ent things.AndIwaslearningalotfromyoube- pay wouldn’t able totalkaboutbusiness,whichstores brain youandI,wherewewouldbe between trust out andthat wasn’tarealityIt forus. Kerby Jean-Raymond, founderofPyerMoss Pensole’s Edwards,thequintessentialmentor, sothat wecouldavoid them,allofthose differ- saw alotofpeoplebeingbailed

oversomeofthehurdles going tocontinuepush Reebok,under- becamea

2/18/21 4:07 PM NYFW BUZZ

Vegetable-tanned leather cially considering the prolif- hub that is Paris, over the past few years it has ankle boots, part of a tight eration of slippers, slipper-like lost some of its star names (such as when Paul footwear edit from Zero + flats, heavy lug-sole boots and Andrew pressed pause on his line in March Maria Cornejo fall ’21 the usual sneakers in cur- 2019 to take on a larger role at Salvatore Fer- rent times. Johnson’s offering ragamo). Other designers like Chloe Gosselin including a mix of statement have chosen to show elsewhere or opted out boots, done in contrast stitch- of fashion weeks altogether in recent seasons. ing with tassels and a high Gosselin said this week she will switch to a see- wooden heel, balletic soft-toed now, buy-now format for fall ’21. pumps with grosgrain ankle Though it may have been missing marquee wraps and a series of hiking names — and its biggest shoe-heavy brands, styles with Diemme. such as Tory Burch, Michael Kors, Coach and All the designers were keen Tom Ford (the last of which had to resched- on getting back to the idea of ule unexpectedly for Feb. 26) — New York’s going out, even if that meant designer footwear is actually hanging on. That’s baby steps, easing into it with thanks to niche high-contemporary designers a mix of comfort pieces and like Cornejo and Gabriela Hearst, who both statement items, such as the know that customers see value in well-made, aforementioned boots. day-to-night shoes and boots that are less about “I think everyone wants a flash and more about the aesthetic codes of bit of a lift, and I tend to go intelligent women. with my gut,” said Cornejo in a There are some notable new designers, such phone interview following the as Emily Amelia Inglis, who started her brand

FOOTWEARNEWS.COM release of her fall ’21 collection, Studio Amelia with a collection of strappy san- //

which she debuted ahead of dals that quickly gained a cult following with the New York Fashion Week with a fashion set. When IMG invited her to debut her

2021 simple lookbook. “We all want first show at NYFW, the Australia-based British

22, to be dreaming a little bit.” designer jumped at the chance to showcase not The designer’s ready-to- just footwear but the second season of a sustain- wear included plenty of her able ready-to-wear collection that she launched signature easy-to-wear pieces, in 2020. FEBRUARY with a little something extra “There are six women behind Studio Amelia, // in metallic jacquard materials including myself, and we are located between and velvets. So, too, was the Sydney, New York and London, so New York acts NEWS footwear, a small but powerful edit that in- as a middle point for us all,” said Inglis, whose cluded statement knee-length and ankle boots brand is a year-and-a-half old. “Our biggest At New York done in a metallic fabric style and black and market is the U.S. and the customer has been

FOOTWEAR caramel-colored, vegetable-tanned leather with incredibly supportive from day one, so it makes a belt detailing that gave a subtle crinkle-like even further sense to showcase here,” she added. Fashion Week, quality to texture. There was also a series of Historically, some of the best NYFW shoe high-heeled sandals, done in simple black, tan moments have come from collaborations, and Footwear and a black-and-red colorway. this season is still following that tradition. “Maybe it’s stupid, because we didn’t really Johnson’s aforementioned boot offering in- sell a lot of shoes in the past year. [But] I think cluded a collab on hiking styles from Diemme. Hangs On things will lift up,” said Cornejo, who works Jason Wu tapped U.K. brand Dear Frances for a with a small factory in Italy to produce her multitude of boots for his fall ’21 collection, the The city has never been a shoe footwear collections, second season to focus mecca, but at this season’s NYFW, which focus on vegeta- on his new lower-priced footwear remains relevant with ble-tanned leather and strategy. Victor Glem- new designers, collabs and a lot local materials, adher- aud worked with Lagos of persistence. ing to her philosophy brand Shekudo on a on sustainable materi- series of pumped-up BY SHANNON ADDUCCI als. “The whole point of clogs, which the design- fashion is that we have ers are selling on The The state of fashion may seem a bit dreary to inspire and create, to RealReal. And Anna these days, but New York Fashion Week dream a little bit and Sui, New York’s resident launched its mostly-virtual showings with a take ourselves out of footwear collaborator, somewhat surprising — and much needed — the doldrums.” teamed back up with spring in its step. While New York has John Fleuvog for a few A number of key brands that showed never been the shoe groovy boots to match during the week — including Ulla Johnson, mecca that Milan is, her ’60s-inspired col- Proenza Schouler, Zero + Maria Cornejo, 3.1 or the luxury brand lection. DESIGNERS

Phillip Lim, Jonathan Simkhai and Veronica At this New York OF Beard — offered a kind of wardrobe that sug- Jason Wu teamed Fashion Week, it’s tak- up with U.K. brand gested an easing back into public life come fall. ing a village. But the Dear Frances for The footwear, which was heavy on boots, a collection of fashion — and the shoes

was also surprisingly focused on heels, espe- statement boots — are still there. COURTESY PHOTOS:

12 POWERED BY LABS

Spyder Footwear consists of 3 product ranges, for all activity levels A New Partnership, Unlimited Opportunity Combining the shoe knowledge of Footwear Unlimited with the stylish mountain aesthetic of Spyder, this new footwear collection is unlocking a new level of outdoor excellence.

and product design team ensured that we “We are excited on being able to expand were staying true to the Spyder’s outdoor and offer Spyder’s lifestyle assortment all American brand heritage: ‘Authentically year-round,” said Wesley Chu, SVP of Spyder,’” said Angel Ilagan, GM and EVP sports, street and active at ABG. “The new of Spyder Footwear and CMO at Footwear collection fuses elements of performance, The ability of this line Unlimited. “And it also made sure that we function and fashion with key models, to merge outdoor hen it comes to were developing product that the Spyder including outdoor, hike, trail, Après Ski, performance and tech, designing,W manufacturing and distributing outdoor lifestyle consumer was looking for and lifestyle – all in fresh, trend-setting col- with product that footwear, Footwear Unlimited is the nat- – and demanded.” orways with technical details for ultimate ural choice, counting 48 years of indus- The collaboration of these two compa- performance and comfort.” looks amazing on the try experience. Known for its Baretraps nies has enabled the resulting footwear line The timing of the launch will enable Spy- foot, is really where line, Footwear Unlimited has a history to draw on both sets of strengths. For Spy- der and Footwear Unlimited to capitalize on Spyder shines. Our of producing quality fashion shoes and it der, this means utilizing color and moder- the booming sneaker and outdoor trends. quality, unique designs was this shoe knowledge that made them nity in a trend-forward way that particularly The past year has seen more consumers the perfect partner for a new venture at resonates with younger shoppers; the millen- invest in their health, opt for casual styles will resonate in the Spyder, a brand in the Authentic Brands nial demographic accounts for nearly half over formalwear, and explore the outdoors outdoor channel where Group portfolio. of the brand’s retail sales. When customers – all of which has inspired a boom for the consumers continue As a leading sportswear and outdoor purchase from the Spyder brand, they know athletic market. But these newer novice con- to be on the lookout brand, the Spyder name carries an expec- they are getting the latest in performance sumers are also looking for fun designs that tation for excellence. But despite the com- and design. they can wear throughout the d ay, as well as for what’s coming pany’s leading product across the ski and For Footwear Unlimited, it is the compa- for any outdoor excursions. next, as the pace of outdoor categories, footwear has remained ny’s experience in developing footwear that This makes Spyder’s footwear line a per- changing consumer unknown territory – until now. Through a ensures that the inaugural Spyder shoe line fect fit. The collection, which includes ded- tastes continues to new partnership with Footwear Unlimited, is rooted in function and quality. Its back- icated men’s and women’s lines, focuses as this year will see the release of Spyder’s ground in lifestyle fashion has also opened much on style as it does on function. And accelerate.” first footwear collection, which harnesses the door to greater variety in the collection: the price point, ranging from $100-$200, —ANDY DUEMLING the bold aesthetics and quality craftsman- Spyder’s first line includes a Mountain Sport means that the product is more accessible VP OF SPYDER ship of each party. range, an Everyday Active range and a ded- than some of the more performance-driven FOOTWEAR SALES “Working closely with the Spyder brand icated Lifestyle range. styles on the market.

Untitled-8FN_LABS_FOOTWEAR 1 UNLIMITED.indd 2 2/17/212/17/21 12:55 1:05 PMPM 1 Fabricant.house The at “Ifyoulook head ofcommunicationsat is longoverdue,” saidMichaela Larosse, to embrace digitization, andthechange seem counterintuitive.Orperhapsnot. worldmight towardthevirtual industry’s shift comes intoplay. Which iswhy thefashion leather smell goods andaccessories,even “Fashion creative isthelast industry when worn—andfor as howtheitemlooks can beasmeaningful the way feels aproduct and consumersalike, Forexperience. creators also amultisensory butitis to aesthetics, Fashion may betied helping thefashion industr compete inthegaming world. Digitiation reimagined how VIRTUAL digitalfashion INSIGHTS e ﬁ lm,

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OTOS COURTESY OF BRANDS Then there are the brand partnerships, which allow companies to create a narrative around individual styles they want to highlight. Drest will launch styling challenges around a particular product or campaign theme, inviting users to spend time engaging with this one

item and styling it for real-life use. FOOTWEAR “It’s so targeted because you can’t enter the challenge unless you play with that very VIRTUAL product,” said Yeomans. “It is di erent from HIGHLIGHTS an ad campaign, where you might look at NEWS it but be distracted by the model or by the These top luxury brands location. You actually have to go in and use // have made memorable this product.” FEBRUARY online appearances. With Drest, the focus is on play over product acquisition. But for The Fabricant BURBERRY and digital retailer Dress-X, virtual products 22, Buffalo Before Animal Crossing swept are a commodity to be bought and used the world in 2020, Burberry was ondon’s across the online ecosystem. And they don’t 2021 digital-onl capitalizing on the potential of

cute online games. Beginning need to have any roots in reality at all. sneaker // with B Bounce in October 2019, Unconstrained by the requirements of FOOTWEARNEWS.COM Burberry has designed a number the physical world, designers can use digital e-commerce executive Lucy Yeomans, the virtual products of short video games, hosted on its products to explore fantastical interpretations e-commerce site, which each feature are the stars. Real fashion products are rendered in digital characters dressed in signature of a brand’s identity. This allows them to form for use in the app. Users can create outfi ts around a brand looks. disregard the cost and logistics of certain specifi c product or for a specifi c event, enabling them to materials — or even ditch realistic materials see how di erent pieces might work together — both in the LOUIS VUITTON altogether. For instance, Bu alo London digital and the real world. Through a collaboration with leading partnered with The Fabricant to produce a pair video game producer Riot Games, “What I’ve tried to do with Drest is take all the elements Louis Vuitton created several of sneakers made from fl ames. of the real world — whether it’s a hairstyle by Sam Knight themed items for the 2019 League “From a consumer perspective, the digital or a dress by Gucci — and replicate them in this beautiful of Legends World Championship fashion environment is this vast, untapped, virtual space,” said Yeomans. “People can come and still Finals. Products included a bespoke creative terrain where all things are possible, be with the product, but it can be done at scale, it can be travel case for the league’s trophy, without limits or boundaries. It’s an open as well as a number of digital skins done very sustainably, and they can really engage with the (virtual outfi ts) designed by Nicolas goal for the imagination,” said Larosse. storytelling in a far more immersive environment.” Ghesquière to be worn within “When you’re digitally dressed, you can wear For Yeomans, the duality of the physical and virtual the game. materials that are impossible in real life, like product is critical. Fashion, especially luxury fashion, waterfalls or clouds.” has always possessed an aspirational element; digital BALENCIAGA Digital products might seem to the To announce his fall ’21 collection, products enable a democratization of discovery, even Balenciaga’s creative director, uninitiated like a fun gimmick, but they if only in a virtual realm. For the brands, it provides a Demna Gvasalia, released a video represent a growing business. Dress-X sells new way to share their designs with a greater audience, game called “Afterworld: The Age of digital-only products, which they will render without diluting the exclusivity of the products Tomorrow.” Available to any visitor to onto a chosen image once purchased. For social themselves. the brand website, players began in a media users, this makes it possible to style and dystopian Balenciaga store and then It’s this expanded exposure that turns Drest from explored ascending levels of utopia, post a greater volume of outfi ts for a fraction of pure entertainment into a potential brand revenue surrounded by 3D avatars wearing the cost of a physical outfi t and without any of source. Younger consumers, or anyone not currently in looks from the new collection. the associated waste. Sustainability is a growing concern for brands and consumers alike, and digital products o er an appealing compromise. And as technology develops, connecting di erent virtual platforms into a unifi ed Metaverse, the merchandise will be able to travel across video games and other digital worlds. Blockchain technology makes it possible to tokenize these assets, for resale or donation as needed, much like physical product. “From our perspective, as 3D specialists working at the intersection of fashion and technology, we envision a world where digital garments replace physical inventory when BRANDS

OF the position to purchase luxury product, can still explore Brands can partner possible,” said Larosse. “The non-physical collections and build a relationship with these labels, with Drest to launch world has become our primary tool for human which might prompt purchases in the future. For those stling challenges connection and self-expression. With this COURTESY who are able to buy now, Drest provides the ability to do around a single product backdrop, it’s inevitable that screenwear has

OTOS so through its partnership with luxury e-tailer Farfetch. become the new streetwear.”

2415 POWERED BY LABS

The Creative Recreation Bolt is new for 2021 A Bolt of Sneaker Inspiration After nearly two decades as a mainstay of the LA streetwear culture, Creative Recreation is back with a new energy, a new silhouette and a dynamic design duo.

Recreation is looking to infuse its brand with the next generation of creative leaders. the original brand DNA. It starts from the a bolt of energy, embodied in the brand new Rich Cofinco: We created a new side logo concept design process; from there every- Zeus silhouette. that enables the brand to expand its identity thing goes through brand filters to ensure we FN spoke with Cofinco and Jones about and adapt a new look as we transition and stay true to ourselves and the brand vision. their creative partnership, the evolution of transform for the next wave of CR fans. Yet, the brand and what consumers can expect the identity of Creative Recreation remains FN: How has Creative Recreation devel- oday, athleisure is every- in spring 2021. unique, quality product for free spirits and oped as a brand since it first launched whereT but the evolution of sneakers, from creative fashion leaders. in 2002? athletic accessory to fashion staple, has been Brand Direction RC: In 2002, we didn’t have a core estab- building since the early 2000s. One brand FN: How has the brand’s identity FN: How does the team balance Creative lished. Nobody knew us. Today, Creative was at the heart of this transition: Creative evolved as we’ve entered a new year Recreation’s distinctive DNA, while still Recreation can make anything. We aren’t a Recreation. Quickly earning a reputation and a new decade? embracing innovation and growth? brand that sticks to any certain lifestyle – we amongst the creative trailblazers of Los Ange- Jason Jones: I think the biggest shift is posi- RC: Trends come and go so it’s important are a lifestyle. If we make tap dancing shoes, les, the Creative Recreation brand has built tioning the brand to be more accessible to a for us to stay true to our DNA – and we they’ll be the coolest tap shoes in the market. itself a legacy as the leader in streetwear. diverse range of consumers. In the early days will. Our innovation and process remains We follow inspiration wherever it leads and Now, the brand is embracing a new audi- the brand garnered attention through the LA the same: No rules, creative freedom, stay let the market follow. Our family of retailers ence of consumers with its latest collection club scene, back when pure athletic shoes true to the original idea of the brand. When and customers have an emotional attach- for spring 2021. Behind this reinvention is were not accepted as proper dress code for you wear Creative Recreation products, it’s ment to Creative Recreation; And we are the combined talents of Jason Jones and the better clubs. Creative Recreation became recognizable. driven to keep them satisfied. original Creative Recreation co-founder, integrated with the LA streetwear culture and JJ: Bringing Rich back to his CR roots as JJ: Undoubtedly, the introduction of the Rich Cofinco. With these two design minds we want to tap back into that core, embracing one of the original founders was the first iconic “Cesario” style in the early days behind the upcoming product line, Creative our heritage while introducing the brand to step in identifying those key elements of was a tipping point for the brand. As Rich

FN_LABS_CREATIVEUntitled-5 1 RECREATION.indd 2 2/17/21 10:5111:55 AM both understand what Creative Recreation is about. So, working with the original founder and design developer of CR – a Trends brand that has captured the imagination of so many loyal fans – is exciting, enjoyable come and and rewarding. go so it’s FN: As a design partnership, how does the development process play out? important RC: As long as the partnership is in sync, the possibilities are endless. Our team is enthusi- for us to astic about the creative process; it never feels like work for any of us. Generally, I create the stay true to idea and we all discuss and kick around ways to improve the product. Jason is a genius at our DNA – recognizing lines and shapes. He can tell if something on paper will execute in an instant. and we will.” JJ: To me, the ingredients must work together to bring an idea to market. Rich — RICH COFINCO, CO-FOUNDER OF and I complement each other and lead all CREATIVE RECREATION design and development for the brand. If Rich needs to design 10 new patterns, he referenced, the Cesario created a reliable can knock that out before lunch. He’s got core customer. This is still the style that limitless ideas in his head. So that means the majority of old school CR fans will we must recognize the best of the best and remember most fondly and it has become perfect it, as part of the design equation. one of those rare timeless classics that remains relevant today. We will always Spring Collection The brand is update and make unique versions of the FN: The upcoming collection introduces synonymous with Cesario but our next development, the a brand new silhouette, the Zeus. What LA streetwear Zeus, launches in spring 2021. was the inspiration behind this style and and culture how does it reflect the future direction FN: Tell us more about what long-time of the brand? The Bolt logo fans of the brand can expect in 2021? RC: We integrated the concept of ancient represents the RC: Unique styles with creative color combi- Zeus and his lightning bolt and adapted it to fresh energy of CR nations. There’s an energy to our new the shoe. Positive, powerful energy is the fuel products that will catch the eye. We learned of creation and so this idea of energy plays that the Cesario was an evergreen pattern into the “Bolt” logo. We’re looking to focus that could be reimagined forever; now again on fresh new looks that inspire a creative, with the Zeus, our big introduction for 2021, young, entrepreneurial lifestyle. That’s we have a design that can be reimagined with why the Bolt fits the idea of the brand: An endless iterations that are easily recognizable. entrepreneurial lifestyle is one that takes JJ: Customers should expect a nod to our boundless energy and optimism. heritage products, along with some explo- JJ: The new collection embraces our heri- ration of new design inspirations from tage but also pushes us forward to explore Rich. These really push the brand in some new directions. CR speaks to consumers who fresh directions. Fans will start to notice covet creativity in all aspects of their lives and the transformation through our consumer who possess an entrepreneurial spirit to create direct touchpoints in a narrative format their own individual paths to success. this spring, as we begin to launch new product introductions. FN: What are you most excited for with this new collection launch? Designer Collaboration RC: Looking forward to the reaction. FN: What is it like to work together on I’m anxious to watch it g row. Creative this brand? Recreation, as a brand, is back! The chem- RC: Jason is multitalented and even better, istry and the enthusiasm is real; the product he gets the Creative Recreation DNA and we have created represents a lot of collabo- mission. For us to collab and create together ration among talented people. The hardest makes our products have more meaning part is waiting for the launch. because of the passion and understanding JJ: Introducing a new generation to Creative put into building the brand. Recreation and continuing to drive the brand JJ: We all share a common passion for evolution. Like Rich said, waiting to see the creative people, places, and things. We shoes on our customers is the hardest part.

For more information about sponsored opportunities, please contact Sandi Mines at [email protected] 17

FN_LABS_CREATIVEUntitled-5 1 RECREATION.indd 3 2/17/21 10:5111:58 AM Slippers have helped drive Ugg sales gains

COZY As the comfort market continues to boom, established slipper brands are finding ways to UP maintain momentum, while new players look to capitalize on the growing category. By Nikara Johns PHOTO:: COURTESY OF UGG UGG OF COURTESY PHOTO:: INFINITY FD WORK BOOT SERIES

Designed for performance and comfort that lasts all day, the Infinity Series work boots will keep you on your feet, wherever the site and whatever the job. Get the protection your job needs, with waterproof full-grain leather, a composite shank, and composite safety toe, as well as the multi-traction, self-cleaning, Infinity FD FLEX-DRIVE outsole. And you’ll be ready to bounce back with our proprietary anti-fatigue high rebound sole that returns energy with every step! With all of the energy you put into your day, don’t you deserve something back? These work boots don’t sacrifice comfort for performance, giving peace of mind, comfort, and confidence so you can focus on a job well done.

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T H O R O G O O D U S A . C O M 0221

Untitled-2 1 2/12/21 11:38 AM Minnetonka is putting a bigger emphasis on slippers And comfort overall will remain important, even in non- slipper footwear, Goldstein added. In September, 70% of consumers surveyed told NPD that once they can return to work and normal activities, they plan to dress just as or more casually than they did prior to the pandemic. This consumer shift has caused established slipper brands to up their game, by expanding their selection of indoor-outdoor styles or hard-soled shoes. At the same time, many newcomers have materialized as they look to capitalize on the boom, bringing fresh excitement and competition to a normally TOPS niche market. TO TOES e Establishment Footwear is not the only place Traditional comfort brands found people are looking for comfort these themselves in strong standing days. Leisure is in demand from last year as consumers looked to head to toe, and traditional shoe prioritize ease. According to The brands are looking to connect with consumers through apparel lines. Lyst Index’s quarterly ranking, Last year, Allbirds expanded searches for casual items such as into clothing with wool jumpers and slippers skyrocketed a whopping cardigans, and it has since added 242% in Q4, compared with the new styles including a men’s hoodie same period in 2019. and a long cardigan for women. Leading the pack was Ugg. In fall ’20, Ugg also took the plunge into the ready-to-wear Searches for Ugg shoes surged category, featuring a mix of in the last quarter of 2020, loungewear, such as fl eecy hoodies, ou knew times resonating with both men and women. For track pants and shorts. were changing example, the Ugg Scu Deco slippers made an “Ugg is a brand known for how early last year appearance on the men’s hottest product list, it makes people ‘feel,’” said brand when high heels while its Classic Ultra Mini boots topped the president Andrea O’Donnell in a statement at the time. “Our new started collecting women’s list. apparel collection was inspired by dust in closets Ugg was also a driving factor for Deckers the emotional relationship we have and Instagram Outdoor Corp.’s record Q3 performance, with with our customers.” feeds fi lled up sales for the brand jumping 12.2% to $876.8 Now, L.L. Bean has expanded its with infl uencers in million, fueled by major growth for non-classic product line to refl ect the pandemic wardrobe. This month, the company sweatpants with big balls of fl u on their feet. footwear, including slippers and the now- launched an athleisure collection YSince the coronavirus pandemic began ubiquitous Flu franchise. for all comfort-wear needs, from upending norms last year, “at-home” leisurewear According to Deckers CEO and president Dave joggers and jackets to hoodies (and has gained major momentum, and with that has Powers, the Flu series has been a compelling sport shoes and scu s, too). come a surge in slipper sales — a trend that is acquisition vehicle for driving repurchase not likely to slow down any time soon, according decisions and helped increase the brand’s 18- to to experts. 34-year-old demographic. While the comfort footwear category was Ugg president Andrea O’Donnell said the already accelerating prior to COVID-19, it saw increased consumer attention makes sense: and reach a diverse audience. “We’ve already an inevitable boost last year, with slipper sales, “We possess an authentic heritage in the slipper established that most of our [slipper] styles specifi cally, increasing 21% compared to 2019, category. So it was expected that in a work-from- have indoor/outdoor versatility and serve many according to The NPD Group Inc. Meanwhile, home capacity we would see more business.” purposes in our consumer’s life,” said O’Donnell. sales of fashion footwear, including heels, sandals, For 2021, Ugg continues to focus on “Our upcoming ‘Feel You’ campaign is all about and boots, declined 27% for the year. introducing new styles and updating its icons. style and individuality and features creatives who Beth Goldstein, fashion footwear and This spring, the brand added more Flu Yeahs all wear key styles in di erent ways.” accessories analyst at NPD predicted further to its assortment, featuring new colorways, Meanwhile, Dearfoams has been expanding its gains for slippers in the early part of 2021, durable outsoles and strappy silhouettes for product o erings to compete in an increasingly followed by a gradual leveling out later in the warmer months. crowded market. For more than 70 years, the year. However, she noted the slipper trend could Execs noted the key goal this year is creating heritage brand has been an BRANDS

be here to stay: “Continued innovation in the comfort looks that are accessible mainstay for consumers OF category and a lasting focus on the at-home multifunctional looking for slippers, but now wardrobe — even as we start shifting back to it’s entering the everyday o¥ ce life and social events — could allow for Olivia Morris At Home footwear category with

sales of the category to remain elevated.” mules are made in Spain The Original Dearfoams COURTESY PHOTOS:

20 Comfort collection, which launched in early “When COVID came on we started to get For British designer Olivia Morris — who February and o ers the feeling of a house slipper calls from our retailers asking if we had slippers. had her own namesake line in the 2000s and in a slip-on sneaker silhouette. They were canceling our dress shoes,” explained worked for well-known brands such as Hobbs “Consumer behavior and needs have president Kevin Schi . “We really went to work. and Lulu Guinness in recent years — launching fundamentally changed over the past year and We found that work-from-home was just a small an eponymous label in today’s market required are not going back,” said Angela Kenney, VP of part of the lifestyle change that was happening. a unique viewpoint — and it wasn’t going to be merchandising and design at Dearfoams. “As So we looked at it like, ‘What are we building for? heels. Instead she’s betting big on slippers after we look forward, we will take our lead from the How are we living our life di erently?’” seeing a gap in the market for stylish options. consumer, who is clearly leading the brand to Enter the Short Commute Collection, which “It’s absolutely about a woman wanting all things comfy in the home and beyond. The launches this spring. The shoes are designed to get dressed at home, wanting to feel chic casualization and ‘buy now, wear now’ trends with slip-resistant, non-marking outsoles, water- and fashionable. The fact [that the shoes] are have allowed us to excel given how readily resistant uppers and are o ered in clog and moc comfortable is the added bonus,” she said about accessible our brand and products are.” silhouettes. her glamorous, made-in-Spain house mules. Bob Mullaney, CEO of Dearfoams parent Even without seeing samples fi rsthand, “Olivia Morris At Home is designed as beautifully company RG Barry Brands, added that savvy Florsheim’s wholesale partners, from Zappos to as any high heel, with vibrant and feminine print moves ahead of the pandemic set the stage Macy’s, jumped on board. “We sold more of these and color and trims. It’s a nod to nostalgia, but for these new opportunities. “The investment than any other item that we have in our line,” for a modern-day client with modern-day needs,” in new products and entering the shearling added Schi . said Morris. That idea appears to be resonating: segment with 100% genuine Australian shearling Leading slipper brands say they are unphased The line has been picked up by Shopbop, has enabled RG Barry to be ready when the by this increase in competition, but it’s clear they Hampden Boutique and Capitol & Canary, and consumer trends accelerated,” he said. aren’t staying complacent. Beyond the steps taken also sells on her e-commerce site. Similarly, Minnetonka also found itself well- by Ugg, Dearfoams and Minnetonka, Lamo last For luxury label Zyne, known for its traditional Moroccan-made, babouche styles, the pandemic changed the fashion landscape, prompting the founders to enter the home category in 2021 with CONSUMER a variety of slippers. “With the lockdown in place, a majority of people were not going out, so their shoes BEHAVIOR AND remained unused in their closet. We decided to launch our home line because we understood that NEEDS HAVE investing in a pair of slippers was more valuable than [investing] in a pair of slides or heels that you were not realistically able to use at the FUNDAMENTALLY moment,” said co-founder Zineb Britel. Now, with this entry into comfort, Zyne is able CHANGED OVER to target a di erent audience through the new styles, as well as by signifi cantly reducing its price THE PAST YEAR. points. (The at-home collection starts at $150, compared with $290 to $440 for its core pieces.) Angela Kenney, Dearfoams Said co-founder Laura Pujol, “This was a turning point for our brand. We never imagined positioned during the height of COVID, thanks to fall introduced Lamolite, a line of everyday casual launching a home line collection, but we came an earlier decision to focus on slippers. President footwear for men and women. And this month, to the realization that looking great for others Jori Miller Sherer said the category has been part Birdies, the 6-year-old slipper startup, unveiled should be equally as important as looking good of Minnetonka’s assortment since its inception its fi rst sneaker silhouette, The Swift. for yourself.” 75 years ago, but in 2019, the brand launched a new line called Home & Away that o ered e Luxe POV comfortable indoor-outdoor styles. Then in 2020, As the high fashion and The fi rst Dearfoams slipper debuted in 1948 Minnetonka introduced slipper slides, which have comfort markets intersect been a success. like never before, it’s no “We actually did that as a test and it kept surprise that luxury brands selling out. Now this year, it’s going to be a large are also looking to cash in category for us,” said Miller Sherer. “We think the on the slipper craze. On the cozy vibe is going to be here for quite a while. runways this season, high-end We’re doing releases every month for our 75th menswear labels, including anniversary, and we’re doing extra releases all the Fendi, Dries Van Noten, JW time on our website.” Anderson and Alyx, showcased Even though the consumer shift to slippers comfort-driven designs ranging has proved benefi cial for industry power players, from cozy socks to shearling it has opened the door for others to take a piece scu s. And almost every brand of the pie. — including Gucci, Louis One unexpected newcomer is men’s dress Vuitton and Coach — now BRANDS

OF shoe brand Florsheim, which previously had counts at least one slipper one slipper in its lineup. But after the pandemic silhouette in their collections. halted o ce life, the brand made an aggressive But for some shoemakers, pivot and developed a new line of at-home slippers are now the way to

COURTESY PHOTOS: comfort shoes. make a splash with consumers.

21 FN STYLE

Clockwise, from top right: ALAMEDA TURQUESA Pinctada handmade shearling slipper with pearl embellishments ARIANA BOHLING Loop scuff with baby alpaca and wool loop knits and suede sole, hand-knit by women in Peru MUK LUKS Maven faux-shearling teddy slide EMU AUSTRALIA Mayberry Lava slide with lava-tipped sheepskin and a rubber sole BIRKENSTOCK Boston clog with Papilio platform and shearling upper and insole COCKTAIL HOUR THESE DAYS HAS LESS TO DO WITH BARS AND HIGH HEELS AND MORE WITH COZY SLIDES, SLIPPERS AND HOUSE SHOES. THESE COMFY OPTIONS PAIR WELL WITH THE CLASSICS. FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY

22, 2021

// FOOTWEARNEWS.COM

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOSHUA SCOTT // PROP STYLIST CAROLINE COLSTON

STYLE DIRECTOR SHANNON ADDUCCI // FASHION ASSISTANT MADELEINE CRENSHAW 23 FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 22, 2021 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM 24 Figueroa, Courtesyof half-wheel &brandied cherry Garnish withorange 1 ½ 2 WHISKEY Courtesyof 1 NEGRONI Cindy DEARFOAMS From ½ 1 Rye Orange wheelfor garnish ¾ ¾ with logo heelstrap sheepskin slipper Yeah Oh UGG memory velour liningand eggwhite oz. oz. oz. oz. oz. oz. oz. 100 Proof

gin lemonjuice top Rittenhouse furry sweet vermouth Campari richsimplesyrup orange juice spots foam insole

Los

slide with Dan Sabo, Dante,

Angeles

SOUR

New York

The Hotel

COSMOPOLITAN 1 oz. Cointreau 2 oz. Absolut Citron 1 oz. fresh lime juice 1 oz. cranberry juice Garnish with lemon peel Courtesy of The Odeon, New York

From left: OLIVIA MORRIS AT HOME Poppy Eiderdown embroidered satin slipper with grosgrain detailing and leather sole ZYNE Fluffy feather and pom pom slipper with viscose upper, lined in velvet and handmade in Morocco FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 22, 2021 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM 26 New Courtesyof Fresh SOFT GINGERED ALE Demerara sugar Lime Sparkling mineral water York

ginger Regency LE MONDEBERYL shearling lining suede upperandfaux men’s slipper with Cozzy FLORSHEIM chain motif leather slipper with Catena embellished SERENA top Clockwise, memory moccasin with men’s indoor-outdoor Douglas Ultra-Light DOCKERS slide with rubbersole velvet vegan The Phoebe BIRDIES Baltic Amber

COCKTAIL right: The NoMadBar, andfaux-fur Toe Moc

foam mulein UZIYEL

from

Tie

FN STYLE

27 Untitled-5 1 2/9/21 11:20 AM PRICE CHECK Brand execs e explain why buying green continues to cost more.

WATER AWAY ese fall shoes are triple threats, with style, comfort and protection. SHOEListOF THE WEEK CASE STUDY BURNING QUESTION WOMEN’S TREND FIRST LOOK FOOTWEAR

HO OF

H W NEWS // AT THE APEX FEBRUARY The Original Muck Boot Company is entering new territory. Rocky Brands Inc. announced 22, 2021 last month it will acquire the all-weather shoe

brand and four of its sister labels for $230 //

million, in a deal slated to close this quarter. FOOTWEARNEWS.COM Original Muck Boot is best known for pull-on styles built to handle the dirtiest jobs, though this Apex Lace Up style points to a fresh design direction for fall ’21. The waterproof women’s boot takes design cues from the outdoor world with its laced construction and lugged rubber outsole for rocky, cold or wet terrain. DANSKO OF SNEAKER: COURTESY GEOX; OF COURTESY MARIO MORETTI POLEGATO: SCOTT; JOSHUA BOOT: MUCK PHOTOS: LIST CASE STUDY

The Tamaris Green Step capsule utilizes sustainable materials

CASE STUDY

FOOTWEARNEWS.COM EARTH & //

2021 BEYOND 22, Why the storied footwear company is embarking on a venture with Tamaris and FEBRUARY rethinking its namesake label. // By Jennie Bell NEWS After 50 years in shoemaking, Earth Inc. is checking off a new first. This month, the Waltham, Mass.-

FOOTWEAR based private company announced its first licensing and distribution deal with European fashion-comfort Earth is working to strengthen its brand Tamaris, to reintroduce the “At some point that porfolio to create clear delineations line to the North American markets between the different businesses for fall ’21. [comfort-cozy] trend’s going and speak to younger consumers. Earth, best known for its While continuing to offer namesake and spin-off collections of to change and it’s going to its core Earth Origins brand to wellness-oriented footwear, sees big big-box and midtier department opportunity with the Tamaris line, become more fashion again. ” stores, the company this fall will particularly in today’s environment. launch Earth Elements, targeted “The brand is well respected — MARK PARSLEY, PRESIDENT OF EARTH INC. to premium department stores and fits into what’s happening out and independents. The line will there today at retail,” said Earth The label’s North American The Tamaris collection comprises comprise comfort styles with an president Mark Parsley, who joined operations will be overseen by a vast selection of fashion boots, eye toward fashion trends and the firm last January after top posts another industry veteran, SVP heels, sandals and flats, as well as its sustainability, with prices ranging at Creative Recreation, Marc Fisher of sales Lance DeShazo, who Fashletics series of casual sneakers from $100 to $150. Footwear and Jimlar Corp. “The big previously was with Global and the Green Step capsule of eco- Meanwhile, the namesake buzzwords right now are comfort Brands Group. friendly styles. All are equipped Earth label is being refashioned and cozy — which we benefit from He has already hit the road with key technologies, such as to fully embrace its sustainable for a lot of different reasons. But I showing the collection to retail cushioned insoles, non-slip soles connotations. do think at some point that trend’s buyers, at the Magic Pop-Up and adjustable boot shafts. “Think about what’s going on in going to change and it’s going to Orlando and the Atlanta Shoe DeShazo said that beyond the world today, with eco-friendly become more fashion again. And Market, and reported that the Tamaris’ comfort and styling and recyclable products, and Tamaris has that to offer as well.” response has been strong so far. attributes, the line also is appealing everybody wants to be part of that Tamaris is well-established in for its price point, which ranges conversation,” said Parsley. “But the overseas markets, but the from $75 to $300. “The consumer is there’s not a brand out there that can brand has struggled to gain a Booties from the Tamaris very focused on the intrinsic value talk about this more authentically Heart & Sole collection foothold in the U.S. It previously of goods at the moment,” he said. than a brand called Earth.” launched here in 2015, led by a To support the fall launch, The company took the line out of small team from Germany. DeShazo and his team will draw on the market after spring ’20 and has Parsley said this time will be established marketing programs been overhauling production and different. “You’ve got to have boots created by Wortmann Group, design to craft a fully sustainable on the ground to make an impact including a YouTube channel and collection aimed at young millennial with the business here,” he said. online and TV campaigns. and Gen Z men and women. It is COMPANIES

“We feel like we can take Tamaris to And looking ahead, Earth’s slated to launch for holiday ’21. OF the better channels of distribution, leaders believe the relationship And Parsley said footwear may build the e-commerce ourselves with Wortmann could help further be just the beginning. “We think we and position the brand in a the overseas expansion of its own could build a lifestyle brand that

different light.” brands, which are in transition. could encompass a true purpose.” COURTESY PHOTOS:

30 LIST BURNING QUESTION

ERIK BURBANK VP of Keen E ect, Keen “Developing sustainable solutions does not necessarily equate to higher prices, but it does require signiﬁ cant e ort and commitment. In 2014, Keen implemented a comprehensive program to remove the toxic chemicals commonly found in footwear supply chains. We’ve been able to remove PFCs and biocides from our supply chain and reduced the use of solvent- based glues. When sustainable practices and Sperrs SeaCcle capsule policies are adopted across the [industry], we’ll inclues stles for men an omen ﬁ nd synergies with suppliers and manufacturers that will lead to greater economies of scale.”

SEAN MCDOWELL PRASAD REDDY VP of design and product U CEO, Twisted X Global Brands development, Sperry UEST “Yes, unfortunately, all the sustainable “Sustainable materials and processes can often materials we use — for the laces, outsoles, result in products costing more for consumers. At midsoles, upper materials — they all cost more Sperry, we have been working hard to close this than conventional materials. We as a company, gap, by being more e¢ cient, partnering closely DO TANABE we decided we’re not going to pass that cost to with our factories and using economies of scale. the consumer, though. We absorb it because we Our SeaCycled collection, set to debut in spring RODT AAY HAE still want to sell as many products as we can. ’22, is anticipated to be cost neutral, meaning So pricing-wise there’s no di erence; cost-wise, customers won’t have to pay more for stylish, yes. But I think that as more and more brands more-sustainable products. Each pair in this TO OT ORE and manufacturers use these materials, maybe collection is made using plastic waste recovered the suppliers will work with us so we can get a from land and sea.” Brand executives share insights on the little more competitive price.” eco-conscious sourcing conundrum. By Jennie Bell

MARIO MORETTI POLEGATO YETZALEE MAZZA Founder and chairman, Geox Marketing director, Jambu & Co. “Sustainable materials are not always necessarily more expensive “Yes and no. Theoretically ‘vegan/PU’ styles can be considered and therefore it is not always a matter of cost. Most of the time, ‘sustainable,’ and that is a shortcut and inexpensive road to constraints are determined by technical requirements that are sustainable sourcing. True sustainably sourced materials are COMPANIES overcome by progress and experience on ﬁ eld. We have recently started expensive. When we say our materials are sustainable we don’t OF a collaboration with a company that primarily produces recycled nylon. mean we’re using PU materials; we are truly using sustainably This collaboration will debut within the spring ’21 season in the Aerantis sourced materials such as hanji paper derived from the bark of range and continue with a new product, Spherica, for fall ’21. These the mulberry tree. (Without having to cut the tree, the bark is a shoes contain regenerated nylon that can be recycled inﬁ nitely. That renewable source.) The material is organic, biodegradable and

COURTESY PHOTOS: means no waste, no new resources and endless possibilities.” environmentally friendly.”

3 LIST WOMEN’S TREND

Chooka marries a rainboot and a sneaker with the Bellevue Chelsea

FOOTWEARNEWS.COM //

2021 22, FEBRUARY //

NEWS FOOTWEAR

A DOBE TAE Consider this the next generation of weather- proof footwear. These sneakers and boots have style, but they also are deceptively tough when

it comes to repelling the elements. BRANDS OF

01 C. waterproof Axel boot with patent and wool details // 02 Dansko waterproof nubuck Leela sneaker with

Natural Arch comfort technology // 03 Vionic Sienna buckled ankle boot in toffee-colored waterproof nubuck // 04 Ecco Zipﬂ ex sneaker COURTESY with a soft Phorene midsole and Hydromax water-repellant treatment // 05 C runway-inspired waterproof Madrid boot in muted moss 06 Rieker sporty hiker featuring its proprietary water-repellant membrane PHOTOS:

3 LIST PREVIEW

Strole is wear-testing its sandals and shoes with medical professionals

FIRST LOOK

Walk is the new run. That’s STROLE the mantra for Strole, a new TARGET RETAILERS: comfort-infused fitness BETTER INDEPENDENT shoe line from a group of FOOTWEAR AND RUNNING STORES industry veterans. PRICE RANGE: $70-$120 The brand was founded MADE IN: CHINA by husband-and-wife duo Craig and Amanda Taylor, in partnership with product designer Ralf Messemer. The Taylors have a long history in product development and marketing for companies such as Nike, Clarks, Dr. Martens and most recently Ziera Shoes. But for their first solo venture, they’re getting a boost from business partner Tom Romeo, whose firm, Romeo & Juliet (parent to Bearpaw and Flip Flop Shops), is lending its sourcing and logistical expertise. “I’m really excited about the direction Craig and Amanda are taking,” said Romeo. “They want this to be a premium sit-and-fit brand. And their passion, expertise and knowledge are second to none.” Craig Taylor noted that unlike other comfort labels, Strole is focused around movement and wellness. “We talked to hundreds of doctors, and they all said the same thing: Give somebody 15 to 30 minutes of simple walking and it will change their lives for the better,” he said. “So we framed a brand around that idea of self-investment and a simple, attainable, healthy lifestyle.” The line debuts this spring with roughly 40 SKUs — mainly lightweight everyday sandals and sneakers. But for fall ’21, Strole will expand quickly, introducing occupational shoes, indoor- outdoor slippers and performance trail and fitness sneakers. The special ingredient in Strole is its unique comfort technology, based on Taylor’s experience working with foot health experts and biomechanics studies in Europe. The system consists of a corrective arch support, impact- reducing Poron air cavities and a “cradle-like”

STROLE molded footbed that promotes alignment. OF In addition to encouraging foot health, Strole also aims to benefit the planet: The goal is for all its products to be recyclable and biodegradable

COURTESY PHOTOS: by 2025. — Jennie Bell

33 P I C K S

STTE O EERE Millions of Texans continue to go without electricity or water after a historic winter storm that plummeted the Lone Star State into single-digit temperatures and knocked out the state’s power grid. While many retailers — including Neiman Marcus, Walmart and JCPenney — have been forced to close their stores and o ces, a Gallery Furniture store in Houston o ered refuge to local families last week, opening as a warming shelter. J. PHILLIP/AP DAVID PHOTO:

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