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Textiles: Stop the chemical overdose! The concern about chemicals in textiles 1 瑞旭技术-希科检测 www.cirs-group.com/test/ 咨询热线：4006-721-723 邮箱：[email protected] Textiles: Stop the chemical overdose! The concern about chemicals in textiles WECF Copyright, october 2013 Copying parts of this report is allowed on the condition that the source is mentioned Textiles: Stop the chemical overdose! Towards more coherent and transparent rules in the EU and beyond for a better protection of workers, consumers and the global environment Authors: Madeleine Cobbing, Chapter I Elisabeth Ruffinengo, Chapter II WECF would like to thank the Steering committee members of this textiles project for their valuable contributions to this report: Marie-France Corre, Sustainable Consumption consultant, France Weronika Rehnby, Product manager Bra Miljöval Textiles (Good Environmental Choice Textiles), Swedish Society for Nature Conservation Kevin M. Brigden, Greenpeace Greenpeace research Laboratories, Exeter, UK Kristina Saarinen, Air Emissions, Team Leader Centre for Sustainable Consumption and Production, Finnish Environment Institute Laurence Vaton, Consultant, France WECF would like to thank the European Environment and Health Initiative (EEHI) and Oak Foundation, the French Ministry of the Environment, and Foundation Lea Nature for their support. 2 瑞旭技术-希科检测 www.cirs-group.com/test/ 咨询热线：4006-721-723 邮箱：[email protected] Textiles: Stop the chemical overdose! The concern about chemicals in textiles Table of Contents CHAPTER I 1. The impacts of hazardous chemicals on children’s health ..................................... 7 1.1 Vulnerability of the unborn child, infants and children to hazardous chemicals ............. 7 1.2 Hazardous chemicals - setting the scene ....................................................................... 8 1.3 Endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs) ....................................................................... 10 2. Sources of chemicals in textiles - raw materials .................................................... 12 2.1 Textile raw materials .................................................................................................... 13 2.1.1 Natural fibres ........................................................................................................................... 13 2.1.2 Synthetic fibres ........................................................................................................................ 15 2.1.3 Cellulose – man-made/artificial fibres (viscose) ...................................................................... 16 3. Sources of chemicals in textiles - textiles manufacturing ....................................... 17 3.1 Summary of the main chemicals of concern used in some textile industry processes (spinning, pre-treatment, wet processing) .......................................................................... 17 3.2 Environmental and health impacts in supply chain countries ....................................... 23 3.2.1 The role of the textiles industry and its contribution to water pollution .................................... 23 3.2.2 Where and how chemicals are released from textiles manufacturing ..................................... 25 3.2.3. Occupational exposure from fumigation and treatments for storage and shipment ............... 28 3.3 Further details on selected hazardous chemicals ........................................................ 29 4. Chemical residues in garments on the market ....................................................... 39 4.1 Some examples of hazardous substances found in children’s garments ..................... 43 4.1.1 Perfluorinated chemicals - PFCs (also see BOX 11) ............................................................... 43 4.1.2 Heavy metals in EURO 2012 football shirts ............................................................................ 43 4.1.3 Children’s jeans ....................................................................................................................... 44 4.1.4 The European rapid alert system for non-food dangerous products (RAPEX) ........................ 44 4.1.6 Garments worn close to the skin ............................................................................................. 45 4.2 Releases of chemicals from garments during use and washing – NPEs and anti- bacterials ............................................................................................................................ 51 4.2.1 Nonylphenol ethoxylates (See BOX 6) .................................................................................... 51 4.2.2 Antibacterial chemicals – triclosan, triclocarban and nanosilver ............................................. 53 5. Children’s and maternity wear brands and their chemicals policies ...................... 55 5.1 Childrenswear .............................................................................................................. 55 5.2 Maternitywear ............................................................................................................... 60 5.3 Brand policies – or lack of ............................................................................................ 60 6. Useful labels to limit hazardous chemicals in textile products ............................... 63 3 瑞旭技术-希科检测 www.cirs-group.com/test/ 咨询热线：4006-721-723 邮箱：[email protected] Textiles: Stop the chemical overdose! The concern about chemicals in textiles CHAPTER I 1. Overview and evolution of European legislation on chemicals of concern in textiles .............................................................................................. 68 1.1 A new Regulation for naming textile fibres, labelling and marking of fibre composition ....................................................................................... 68 1.2 A variety of legislative instruments for regulating a range of chemicals and mixtures in a range of products and uses .............................................. 68 2. How complex EU legislation applicable to hazardous chemicals in textiles triggers confusion ................................................................. 70 2.1 REACH Candidate list substances: consumer right to know about Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC) contained in articles .................... 70 2.2 Restriction in REACH: dealing with hazardous chemicals in consumer products but no right to know for the consumer ................................................ 71 2.3 From A to Z: illustrations of hazardous chemicals regulated in textiles to a greater or lesser extent ............................................................................... 72 3. The human, social and environmental factor ......................................................... 77 3.2 Occupational exposures through the textile supply chain ............................................ 79 3.3 Exposure of final consumers ........................................................................................ 80 4. 9 Recommendations to address 9 facts about textiles in the EU .......................... 82 Glossary of terms ............................................................................................................................. 92 Bibliography ...................................................................................................................................... 92 4 瑞旭技术-希科检测 www.cirs-group.com/test/ 咨询热线：4006-721-723 邮箱：[email protected] Textiles: Stop the chemical overdose! The concern about chemicals in textiles Textiles: Stop the chemical overdose! Towards more coherent and transparent rules in the EU and beyond for a better protection of workers, consumers and the global environment A report by WECF, October 2013 Authors: Madeleine Cobbing, Chapter I Elisabeth Ruffinengo, Chapter II 5 瑞旭技术-希科检测 www.cirs-group.com/test/ 咨询热线：4006-721-723 邮箱：[email protected] Textiles: Stop the chemical overdose! The concern about chemicals in textiles Introduction: Why is WECF concerned about hazardous chemicals in textiles? In this report WECF explores whether textile products containing potential or known chemicals of concern, manufactured within or outside the EU and then placed on the EU market, are adequately regulated to ensure proper consumer information and protection from exposure to hazardous compounds. Indeed, textiles manufacturing is associated with huge consumption of chemicals, some of which are hazardous or potentially hazardous. Some estimate that 4 kg of chemicals are needed to produce 1 kg of t-shirts1. One of the challenges is: how to provide an adequate and easily understandable legislative framework for products that are inherently complex while at the same time ensuring a high level of protection of the European consumer? The first Chapter of this report will examine how textile products go through a wide range of processes, which result in a multitude of potential sources of contamination with hazardous chemicals through the whole textiles supply chain, which can also remain in the final consumer product. Chapter II will examine the question of whether current EU regulations are sufficient to protect consumers and the environment from the hazardous chemicals in textile products. In April 2013, the Swedish Chemical Agency (KEMI) released a report entitled “Hazardous chemicals in textiles”2. The authors examine the need to further adapt existing EU regulation to provide for a better consumer protection from hazardous chemicals