6 The Sunday Times. of Malta • OCTOBER21, 2018 OCTOBER 21, 2018 • The Sunday Times of Malta 7 memortes Once upon a.time in·Marsalforn Alan Vella recounts fond memories of his childhood years in Gozo.

Otters! It was waterpolo time on against two/three ball slinging read. Blyton's books were very much the local sports programme I was game in shallow water. Other times, in demand as the children's watching on Tv, and the journalist we used to play cama cama at Il­ favourites, at a time when Harry Pot­ announced the day's results. Otters Paletta, still a popular bathing spot ter had yet to be conceived. were playing. nowadays although it has broadly Before catching the bus back to It was enough to ignite flash­ lost its tennis racket-like shape. Marsalforn, I always left enough time backs. My mind switched back to Another favourite spot was Ghar for an ice-cream at Lola's behind the Gozo I grew up in, when I used Qawqla with its endless possibili­ Pjazza San Gorg. Lola was a house­ to practically spend the entire sum­ ties focused around what we hold name in Victoria with her home­ mer months at our family apart­ called Il-Gebla, the partly sub­ made ice cream, at a time when ment in Marsalforn. It is not an merged rocky structure just off Italian brands had yet to'be imported. children should participate on a daily basis chant of a seasoned oenologist, she would al­ but we also spent countless time playing bil­ easy task to pin the subsequent the mainland, that facilitated div­ Fishing was another of my in the 6pm mass, as the parish priest had de­ ways give her opinion on the quality of the liards at the only Marsalforn spot offering nostalgic flashbacks to a specific ing but that was also particularly favourite pastimes, but I was ad­ cided that this mass should be for children. particular chip she chose, and to ask for an­ such a possibility (at Il-Menqa). At a later period, but I would say my attractive for adventurous games mittedly never that good at it. I It was never easy leaving the beach and other one to gauge whether it would taste stage, evening activity of course shifted to­ thoughts spanned from the early to in rougher seas. used to try my luck Wara l-Menqa, going back home in time to have a quick better than the first. One day it was too much wards The Rook at Il-Qbajjar, better known mid-1970s to the mid- and late Swimming time was usually in on the curved, narrow rocky ledge shower and change, so occasionally I pre­ salt, the other too little pepper, anoth~r day in Marsalforn circles as It-Torri, which 1980s, when Marsalforn was the afternoon, since mornings were (iC-Cinta) leading from il-Menqa to tended not to hear the dominant church bells she complained about the ketchup and fur­ quickly established itself as Gozo's most pop­ broadly still a seaside village rather usually dedicated to other activities il-Paletta. I did manage to catch an reminding all that mass would commence in ther still the vinegar. What I did not realise ular hangout. than a fully-fledged resort. Let's say and errands. I was not a big errand gharusa or two, but my nightmare alongside the rubble walls, sepa­ 15 minutes. Of course, that would mean at the time was that she was pulling my leg At night, the extended family regrouped in 30 to just over 40 years ago. fan but I did run plenty of them for was always the thought of catch­ rated the fields from the rugged being late for the 6pm mass, and invariably and enjoying my not-too-amused reactions! front of Grandpa Ganni's house, grabbing Otters were actually our rivals. mum and Nanna Nozzi at the local ing and having to handle a skorfna. lane that lead to the inner part of being gently chided by the parish priest for Eventually, I did figure out a way to avoid her any available chair or cushion to sit down The waterpolo scene in Gozo was grocer. Dad also asked me to buy I always fared better when accom­ the valley (still predominantly turning up for the 7pm mass, which he more by taking a longer walk back home through and enjoy the evening breeze along the pave­ busy at the time, and a Gozitan the newspaper, but at times it ar­ panying Uncle Joe on his fishing rough terrain at the time). We or less preferred billing as 'tal-kbar biss' (for the other side of the valley. The problem was ment. Jokes and group chats abounded, until league was formed. Around the sec­ rived rather late in Marsalforn es­ boat. His favourite method was to played numerous soldier games adults only). that the fries' smell was irresistible and only grandpa decided that it was time to say the ond part of the 1970s, Otters had to pecially if the morning ferry from throw out various sufri for in­ and hide and seek around what we The children's mass was quite animated the bag, and no chips, ended up on my dinner rosary. Nanna Nozzi would be there, tucked fight it off against Sharks, Penguins Malta was delayed or cancelled be­ stance off il-Menqa towards Ghar referred to as massive "bamboo and enjoyable. Cousin Stephen produced plate by the time I reached home. away behind il-boxxla on her favourite arm­ and Dolphins, but I also vaguely re­ cause of bad weather. These were Qawqla, keep a bit of distance, and sticks", occasionally stopping to ad­ heroics in mastering the foot pumping, age­ Evenings at Marsalforn were a hub of ac­ chair, with a warm cover on her lap, which member a couple of trial appear­ the days when the JyUand was the wait patiently Ul.ltil the sufrun mire the colourful butterflies, ing, non-electric black wooden organ, and tivity. In my younger days, I used to hang out she particularly cherished. ances of teams formed from best ferry in inclement weather, ducked. I always felt a thrill, know­ grasshoppers or dragonflies that did manage to keep it in tune. One day, with my cousins around Il-Wied, playing all Having passed my formative schooling Xaghra and Xewkija. The league and I vividly remember dad telling ing that it was the right time to buzzed close by especially if there The Rabat-Marsalfom-Rabat bus; Stephen was not around, but dad happened sorts of games but also watching the weekly years in Malta, I was quite surprised to was played at Marsalforn's Il-Blokki, me that the ferry was a much-im­ grab the sufrun (and many a time was a puddle or two in the vicinity. witJ:l.The Teens Bar (in green) in to be there, so the parish priest asked him Giochi Senza Frontiere on Italian TV. If mum learn in my younger days that the Gozitan since the area occupied by Otters' proved offer when compared to the a shiny, silvery kahli or sargu) with Other times, Uncle Gorg would the background. whether he would take over the role himself. and dad were in Malta (Auntie Lelina often meaning for 'boxxla' was not a 'compass' as existing pitch next to the Spring­ days when he used to board the Im­ the extended net. Of course, the ask all children whether they would Of course, dad obliged, and the parish priest offered hospitality), I used to phone them in Malta, but rather a door knob or the board (between Il-Banju tal-Isqof perial Eagle (nowadays one of number of leisure boats poking accompany him to Spain. All quickly jotted down the list of hymns to be from the only public phone booth available inner door. and Il-Ponta ta' Santa Marija) was Malta's main diving attractions) in into Marsalforn Bay at the time obliged - this was his characteristic sung during mass. Looking at the list, dad in Marsalforn at the time. This was located With time, I also discovered other Gozitan only popular with bathers in those his first forays crossing over to were a rarity, so fishing activities way of leading all children for a grawnd tal - futbol~ (football ground). Around August, iz-Ziju Nen and Auntie had difficulty remembering the tune of a close to the dedicated bus lane just off IC­ variances, the likes of 'qed itini 1-mejt' which days. Malta. The Imperial Eagle, which I of such a nature were facilitated. short walk into the valley, which he There were no formal recreational Anne would usually fly over from the United particular hymn chosen. Luckily, he was with Caghaq, and consisted of a metal black and meant dizziness, 'hajz', which was widely My cousins were all playing for also remember berthed at Mgarr Il-Wied (valley) was another pop­ humorously referred to as the facilities in those days, and I vividly States to visit the rest of the family in Marsal­ a chummy of his, and asked his friend to qui­ grey box which required the caller to press used by Gozitans to emphasise something Sharks, and it was only natural that (but not as a passenger/car ferry), ular area with us youngsters. We exotic destination Spain. He would remember treating the (still exist­ forn. Their visit was a big summer event etly sing it to him. On the basis of his friend's lever 'N to be able to speak and lever 'B' tore­ they disliked or even the expression 'bhal as the youngest, I would join the could take less than 10 cars on played headers close to Aunt naturally adorn the visit to Spain ing) concrete angled platform to­ since Iz-Ziju Nen was an affable character vocal talents, dad figured out the tune and cover one's money in case the call never went xejn', which was broadly used whenever a team myself. Sharks soon estab­ board, but there were no queues or Kekin's house next to the formal with his lively stories, invented or wards one side of the steps leading who arrived with a never-ending bagful of was able to meet il-kappillan's request in full. through. Of course, lever 'B' was subject to Gozitan expressed surprise. lished themselves as the only cred­ demand- supply issues at the time. open space currently located oppo­ not, which kept all us children on from Marsalforn church to the jokes and colourful episodes, and who was Thereafter, it was time for dinner. Mum many frustrating moments as pressing, Thereafter, everyone went back home for ible rivals to Otters, prompting Once a week, I used to catch the site Marsalforn's only pharmacy. wide-eyed. police station as a slide. Otherwise, dearly loved by all. For us kids, he was a sort would always prepare an evening meal, but pushing, shaking or banging on the phone a good night's sleep. I however always spent many derbies with separate sets of bus to Victoria (it cost two Malta This open space was at the time re­ The building envelope at Triq il­ the swings concept was nowhere to of midsummer's Father Christmas who the temptation to top that up with a bag of box did not always bring one's money back. some time on our apartment's balcony, sip­ boisterous supporters crowding Il­ cents) to pay a visit to the Gozitan plete with bushes and shrubs, be­ Wied leading on towards the valley be seen in Marsalforn. Another no­ would bring plenty of different gifts that we chips at times proved to be irresistible. As years passed by, we traded Il-Wied with ping through a thirst quenching glass of cold Blokki. The Sharks and Otters sup­ Public Library. I enjoyed spending sides blossoming oleander trees was confined to fewer houses. ticeable difference was the complete would closely cherish up to the following Marsalforn did not have many take-aways at Il-Menqa,joining other groups of children as water and hearing the closest bar owners porters usually occupied the left time browsing through magazines, that also served as natural shades Roughly in the area where there is absence of a formal car park in Summer, when he would of course be back the time, so the one next to the bus station happens when youngsters taste the teenage next to the promenade drag and group their and right hand sides of the triangu­ newspapers (no internet, of course) protecting the few cars parked currently the local access road link­ Marsalforn: the current car park was with more presents and jokes. made brisk business in selling fries. I vividly years. Commercial activity alongside Marsal­ metal tables and chairs in one specific area, larly shaped Il-Blokki respectively, and looking around the library in the there from the sun. ing the car park to the main road at the time simply a continuation of This was a time when the value of a toy remember queuing up, hoping that the chips forn promenade was at the time focused as they prepared to close shop late at night. when facing the pitch. unlikely event that I manage to spot What impressed me most how­ from Victoria to Marsalforn stood the terraced fields sloping from the was much more appreciated, and when the would not be delayed unduly. I was fasci­ around Il-Menqa, except for a few bars and This was the effective indicator signalling Otters were admittedly always an Enid Blyton title that I hadn't yet ever were the huge reeds that, what we affectionately called 'il- road to Xaghra downwards. thought of a free gift with a fast food meal nated with what seemed like a high tech po­ restaurants on the Il-Banju tal-Isqof side. that it was really and truly time to go to bed. the better organised and more re­ Il-grawnd tal-futbol was nothing was completely unheard of. tato peeling and chopping machine where The modern-day row of nightspots in the Il­ sourceful team, but we fought many more than a larger than usual infor­ Word of their arrival would spread fast, the establishment owner would dump plenty Blokki area was at the time a fully residential This article is based on true childhood recollec­ David and Goliath battles under the mal open space that luckily for us and the adults simply laughed their heart out of potatoes into the machine, and happily re­ area, occupied predominantly by Victoria tions of mine, and is intended as a realistic, socio­ charismatic baton of Is-Sur Said, children had an even, gravel type of listening to iz-Ziju Nen's latest adventures in trieve them chopped on the other side, ready residents who spent their summer months cultural snapshot of the simpler and calmer and did manage to spring a couple terrain. Four stones from il-Wied to the US, or Johnny ta' Sisi's tit-for-tat with iz­ to be fried. at their seaside house. Nowadays, an increas­ (whencomparedtomoderntimes)Marsalfomin of surprises. With time, interest serve as goalposts quickly trans­ Ziju Johnny (affectionately known as 'Gugu') When my turn would finally arrive, I ing number of families reside permanently the 1970s and 80s. The article is dedicated to those however waned and after a couple formed it into Marsalforn's football on their successes or otherwise at sea. would proudly hold on to my chips and qui­ in Marsalforn. mentioned in my article who have since passed of seasons playing (alongside Ot­ ground. At the time, Juventus and After countless hours of swimming and etly head home. Invariably, Nanna Nozzi One of our favourite spots for a drink was away, particularly my own father Maestro ters) in the Maltese national league, Leeds were dominant teams in their · playing, the late afternoon was time for would be on her doorstep and call me over, The Teens - more or less a boathouse trans­ Joseph Vella who just missed celebrating my 50 Sharks were confined to the annals respective leagues, and football mass. Grandpa Ganni insisted that all grand- asking me if she could try one. With the pen- formed into a bar - next to Il-Banju tal-Isqof, years of age by a couple of months. of local waterpolo history together games usually lead to these two with other Maltese teams compet­ teams fighting it out in Marsalforn ing at the time, such as Barracudas, valley too. The games were more or Valletta St Paul's and Senglea. less an extension of the Sharks-Ot­ Apart from Il-Blokki, the bay's ters rivalry as our Juventus team configuration was rather different consisted of my extended family - at the time too. A semi-ciFcular, myself with my cousins, secqnd perched concrete platform sepa­ cousins, cousins of cousins, everyone rated the area known as Ir-Ramel became a cousin when it mattered­ from Ic-Caghaq, also serving as a against the Leeds team having the panoramic belvedere. Most people Dimechs and Tabones as their back­ chose to bathe at Ir-Rame~ because bone. Other youngsters joined the of the finer sandy beach, so my 6 ft:iH. ~i6ilhllyr:Mnoog>tb.~niWaS1P cousins and myself usually opted youngisk' Daniel Cilia who most~ for Ic-Caghaq - definitely less probably still had to discover his love crowded - to play pika, a two/three for photography at the time.