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Caraïbes. Patrie Du Reg Gae – Tout Juste Classé Par L TENDANCESÉVASION Au rythme de la Jamaïque en Jamaïque. Sa mission s’appelle Golden Caraïbes. Patrie PAR ANNE-SOPHIE JAHN Eye et il tombe amoureux de cette jungle du reg gae – tout juste uel meilleur moyen d’accoster sur impénétrable et de ces superbes plages l’île que d’imiter Ian Fleming de sable blanc. A la fin de la guerre, il y classé par l’Unesco –, Q soixante-six ans plus tôt ? En y construit la villa de ses rêves, qu’il a lui- l’île a inspiré pénétrant par le nord, via la baie d’Ora- même dessinée. Installé dans sa chambre cabessa, la « tête d’or », comme l’ont nom- face à la mer des Caraïbes, un verre de les plus grands, mée les Espagnols, qui colonisèrent la rhum à la main, il y imagine le person- Jamaïque après sa découverte par nage de James Bond. Mais il ne reste pas de Gainsbourg Christophe Colomb en 1494. En 1942, le longtemps isolé dans sa retraite d’écri- aux Rolling Stones. commandant Fleming, agent du rensei- ture. Dans les années 1950 et 1960, le nord gnement naval britannique, est envoyé de l’île est le repaire de la jet-set. Errol POUR « LE POINT » (X2) LUYSSEN/RÉA JEAN LUC 110 | 13 décembre 2018 | Le Point 2415 Descente du Rio Grande en bambou rafting au nord-est de l’île. Ci-dessous, l’hôtel Strawberry Hill, qui domine la baie de Kingston. Flynn, Elizabeth Taylor et TrumanCapote y passent leurs vacances. C’est à cette époque que Chris Blackwell découvre Goldeneye. Issu d’une famille de riches Blancs jamaïcains, le playboy de 18 ans a été invité à déjeuner avec sa mère (dont elle est l’amante) par Fleming. Vingt ans plus tard, après avoir fait for- tune dans la musique (il a signé sur son label Island Records Bob Marley, U2, Cat Stevens, Jimmy Cliff, Amy Winehouse…), il rachète la propriété qui l’entoure … Le Point 2415 | 13 décembre 2018 | 111 TENDANCESÉVASION Au bout d’un sentier cheminant dans les Blue Mountains, School of Vision, un village rastafari. … pour y construire un hôtel. Johnny qu’Ursula Andress est sortie en Bikini, un Mountains dominant la baie de Kingston. Depp, Grace Jones, Naomi Campbell et couteau à la ceinture, devant un Sean Loin de la chaleur étouffante de la ville, Kate Moss y ont planté leurs arbres dans Connery ébahi, dans le fameux « James c’est le point idéal pour découvrir les le jardin et Sting y a écrit le tube « Every Bond 007 contre Dr No ». splendides plantations de café. Au terme Breath You Take ». Au bar, on déguste des cocktails au d’une ascension de deux heures dans cette En arrivant de nuit, on est accueilli par rhum Blackwell, des crevettes de sa ferme dense et mystérieuse forêt où cohabitent le chant des grenouilles (un excellent sé- biologique, des fruits et légumes du jar- en harmonie bananiers, conifères et blue datif), l’air humide et doux, le bruit des din. A 81 ans, le magnat se bat pour conser- mahoes (l’arbre national, une sorte d’hi- vagues. Au réveil, la baie se dévoile au son ver l’écosystème de l’île, ses coraux, biscus), on peut aussi visiter un village des oiseaux. Le vrai luxe ressemble à une poissons et tortues. Depuis qu’il a vendu rasta et échanger sur la manière dont ils bicoque perdue sur la plage décorée avec son label, il se consacre à l’hôtellerie. Il vivent en autonomie, leur messie Haïlé goût et tout confort. C’est de cet horizon possède un autre des plus beaux établis- Sélassié, la symbolique des dreadlocks, FEATU/REX/SIPA POUR LE POINT (X2) – IAN DICKSON/REX LUYSSEN/RÉA JEAN LUC sements de l’île : le Strawberry Hill, un En novembre, le reggae a fait son entrée au charmant ensemble de cottages construit Patrimoine mondial de l’humanité. Les Vinyl dans le style jamaïcain du XIXe siècle Thursdays sont l’occasion de découvrir cette musique. situé au sommet des brumeuses Blue 112 | 13 décembre 2018 | Le Point 2415 ÉTATS-UNIS Baie d’Oracabessa JAMAÏQUE Goldeneye Blue Mountains JAMAÏQUE Kingston Strawberry Hill Mer des Caraïbes 50 km ∞ Y ALLER Voyageurs du monde. 13 jours/11 nuits sur mesure, à partir de 6 000 €/pers. (base 2), vols, hébergements haut de gamme, demi- pension, véhicule avec chauffeur privé, visites et service de conciergerie francophone inclus. 01.42.86.16.39, www.voyageursdumonde.fr. ≥ SE RESTAURER Un Lagoon Cottage à l’hôtel Goldeneye. C’est ici que Devon House. Un havre de paix Ian Fleming crée le personnage de James Bond, en dans un ravissant jardin, qui propose 1953, et qu’Ursula Andress (à dr.) sort de l’eau, en les meilleures glaces de la ville (3,80 €), Bikini, dans « James Bond 007 contre Dr No », en 1962. www.devonhouseja.com. Gloria’s. Près de Tuff Gong Studios, tout cela autour d’un root wine (boisson une institution pour manger un poisson frit devant la mer (10 €), aux plantes fermentées). www.gloriasseafoodja.com. De retour à l’hôtel, le temps s’écoule en fonction des variations du coucher de ∑ DORMIR soleil. C’est ici que les Rolling Stones et Goldeneye. 49 villas et bungalows côté Marianne Faithfull venaient « jammer », mer ou côté lagon avec des salles de et que Bob Marley s’est réfugié après avoir bains extérieures. A partir de 450 € la été victime d’un attentat en 1976. En pro- nuit, www.goldeneye.com. Terra Nova. La maison d’enfance de duisant son album « Catch a Fire » quatre Chris Blackwell a été transformée en ans plus tôt, Blackwell avait donné au hôtel de 41 chambres. A partir de 175 € chanteur une dimension internationale album de reggae français, et les Rolling la nuit, www.terranovajamaica.com. en ajoutant aux rythmes jamaïcains de Stones « Goats Head Soup ». Contraire- Strawberry Hill. 13 cottages en ses chansons des éléments rock. Bob Mar- ment à ce qu’on peut imaginer, ces der- bois blanc ajouré, avec vérandas, lits ley est alors devenu une icône et la Ja- niers y ont travaillé d’arrache-pied, ne se à baldaquin et meubles d’acajou. A partir de 350 € la nuit, maïque un repaire de rock stars venues reposant que quelques heures au bord de www.strawberryhillhotel.com. retrouver l’inspiration sous les cocotiers. la piscine du Terra Nova, meilleur hôtel A Kingston, Serge Gainsbourg a enre- de la ville. C’est dans la capitale qu’on sent BRIE WILLIAMS/ISLAND OUTPOST IMAGES – MOVIESTORE COLLECTION/REX FEAT – JEAN LUC LUYSSEN/RÉA POUR « LE POINT » (X2) LUYSSEN/RÉA – JEAN LUC FEAT COLLECTION/REX – MOVIESTORE IMAGES BRIE WILLIAMS/ISLAND OUTPOST gistré « Aux armes et cætera », premier vraiment le pouls du reggae. En dehors de l’incontournable maison de Bob Mar- ley à Hope Road, on peut aujourd’hui dé- couvrir (avec un guide) le passionnant ghetto de Trenchtown, qui a engendré les plus grands musiciens, dénicher des ra- retés parmi les 300 000 vinyles de la Reg- gae Box, visiter les studios de musique de Tuff Gong (et tomber sur un des fils Mar- ] DÉCOUVRIR ley en train d’enregistrer de nouvelles chansons) et enfin boire une Red Stripe Reggae Box. Joe Spinner, un Suisse au Dub Club, temple de la musique roots, installé en Jamaïque, nous guide dans l’impressionnante collection de Kingston scintillant à ses pieds. Is this love vinyles de son mini-entrepôt situé that I’m feeling ? § au 58 Dumbarton Avenue, à Kingston. Vinyl Thursdays. Le jeudi à partir de Les mythiques studios de Tuff Gong, à Kingston. 19 h pour écouter de l’old school reggae. Créés par Bob Marley (à g.), en 1965, il y enregistra Informations sur leur page Facebook. ses chansons les plus célèbres – « No Woman No Dub Club. Le dimanche à partir de 20 h, www.kingstondubclub.com. Cry », « Could You Be Loved », « Stir It Up »… Le Point 2415 | 13 décembre 2018 | 113.
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