UNITE THE UNION FOR YOU GUIDELINESGUIDELINES ROCK AND ROLL MEMORIES KLAUS TELLS ALL. Beatle - and newly qualified blue badge - guide Rick Jones meets Klaus Voormann. In August I attended a conference given by eighty-year-old Klaus Voormann, who had lived in Green Street, Mayfair with George and Ringo of the Beatles in the 1960s. He replaced John and Paul who had just moved out to be with their partners. I do not know how many guides include Green Street but it is just across Grosvenor Square from Jimi Hendrix’s flat in Brook Street. As artist and musician, Voormann designed the Revolver album cover and played bass for rival group Manfred Mann. He had met the Fab Four in his native city of Hamburg when they were playing in the red light district of the Reeperbahn in the early 60s. I asked if the Liverpudlians had influenced fashion in Hamburg. Voormann said rather Hamburg had in- fluenced the Beatles, who came as wide-eyed young men. ‘They were so young,’ he said. ‘George was only sixteen with these great sticking-out ears and singing “I’m Henery the Eighth I am!” The Beatles had an unbelievably wide repertoire.’ Voormann was in London to promote both his book, ‘Es Begann in Hamburg (It Began in Hamburg) and the City of Hamburg’s annual Reeperbahn Festival. His fascinating book is a autobiography in words and pictures, rich with anecdotes to keep your Beatles Tours lively.

THE PIANO MAN Q. Who played for the Beatles, Rolling Stones, Kinks and Who without joining any of them? A. Pianist Nicky Hopkins, who is generally regarded as the finest session player Britain has ever produced. Trained as a classical pianist, Hopkins was born in Perivale in 1944 and worked with most of the famous bands of the sixties and seventies, playing keyboards on the Revolver album and the Stones’ Beggar’s Banquet and accompanying Jagger’s vocals on the single Angie before his early death in 1994 at the The Nicky Hopkins bench supporting an admirer. age of fifty.

Hopkins suffered from Crohn’s disease which made touring difficult and led to him working mainly in studios. About a hundred people attended the unveiling of the bench in Perivale Park which was built to look like a piano as a memorial to Hopkins. This was paid for through a crowd funding campaign led by John Wood, an admirer of Hopkins. Roger Also in this issue: Daltrey, Mick Jagger and Kenney Jones of the Small faces were amongst the contributors. EL CHAIR’S LETTER – PAGE 2 WATERLOO SUNSET THE SILVER VAULTS – PAGE 3 Plans to open an ABBA-themed restaurant near Waterloo (the title of their first Eurovision winning hit COSTUME AND STYLE IN TUDOR ENGLAND – in 1974) have been shelved after Coin St residents objected. PAGES 4 AND 5 They were not happy at the thought of fans of the group singing Dancing Queen in the street after ARCHITECTURAL AWARDS – PAGE 7 closing time. The plan is now to open the restaurant in the O2 centre in the late spring of 2019. GUIDING ON THE DLR – PAGE 8

ASSOCIATION OF PROFESSIONAL TOURIST GUIDES www.guidelondon.org.uk September 2018 Union news BRANCH COUNCIL Nick Hancock (Chair) Ruth Polling (Secretary) LETTER FROM Alfie Talman (Treasurer) Steve Szymanski (Vice Chair) Angela Morgan (Marketing) THE CHAIR The Chair on his bike Danny Parlour (Site Liaison) Google “ I need a London Guide”: it is what you would do if you were looking. Of the million Ruth Rossington (Website) + results our APTG website comes up third. And fourth - just in case you needed another hint. Alex Hetherington (CPD) This is great news for English speaking guides. There are thousands of site visitors every month, and a hefty number of those enquiries turn into jobs - paying jobs going straight into the Sue Hadley (CPD) pocket of the APTG guide. Dominic Burris-North (Events) This is all good news - but not if you are French or German. Search in those languages and we Liz Rubenstein (Fees) do not even hit the first page of results. And since half of all APTG members guide in languages Anne Marie Walker (Membership) other than English this does not help them and is not good news at all. Edwin Lerner (Guidelines) So we have committed to making the next generation of our web site far more French and German friendly. Spanish too – in fact any language which is popular and generates work. Sadly the intrepid Faroese traveller will still struggle but we will follow the money . We want Alex to raise the profile of our portal for those seeking non-English guides. We want to offer more to APTG guides speaking other languages but this will take time, effort and involvement. Hetherington There are new vacant places on Branch Council for guides whose first language is not English Alex works in the team because we need your experience, insight and involvement to make this work. Speak up - we which produce APTG’s want to hear your voice. Be part of things and make a difference. And our Branch Council popular Continuing Professional lunches are legendary. Say hello - we want you to be part of the future . Development programme and has taken Last October Branch Council gathered to create our first strategy document . We showcased over as our representative on FEG this at our AGM, and published it in Guidelines. We wanted to decide what we thought was important and to devote our time and effort there. This October we are reviewing that document and planning for the future. We are pleased with lots that has happened. We now DATES FOR YOUR have 579 members - the largest number that we have ever had. More members attend our open meetings and we now invite a guest speaker to make it a worthwhile investment of your DIARY THIS WINTER time. Our CPDs are relevant and innovative but also are refreshers for the staples of our QUIZ NIGHT profession - the major sites that we keep coming back to. We have achieved more work opportunities for APTG members. Did you see Guides on the DLR? That is down to us Date: Monday 29 October. Venue: (see page 8) and we have supported colleagues chasing bad debts. We would like to hear Prince of Wales Pub, Covent Garden what you think on our progress this year and where we should focus on next year. Please ITG AGM email me on [email protected] We want to know what you think. Date: Thursday 15 November 2pm Lastly a warm welcome to the latest group of guiding trainees under the experienced care of Venue: Kensington Town Hall Ann Bunnis and Karen Sharpe as Course Directors and Administrator Fernando Garcia. There are thirty two beginning their guiding career and the focus is on the practicalities of guiding as The meeting will be preceded by walks well as knowledge. They have written a new syllabus which reflects the changing market and and followed by an evening of food, drinks demands and expectations of our clients. We wish everyone well and look forward to and quiz. welcoming them all into the APTG once they have qualified. Nick Hancock APTG AGM Time: 11:00 am Monday 10 December NEXT MEETING This will be an all-day meeting at the Diskus The next Members’ Open Meeting will be at 6:30 pm on Suite in the Unite Office… to be followed by: Tuesday 9 October at Unite Office. GUIDES’ CAROL SERVICE PRE MEETING TALK Time: 7:00 pm Monday 10 December Before the next meeting there will be a surgery advising members on the best ways of generating Venue: St Giles in the Fields Church, 60 St work from the GuideLondon website. This session will start at 5:45 and there will be a short Giles High St, WC2H BLG interval before the meeting starts. Please arrive promptly if you wish to attend.

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GUIDE LONDON REPORT There were 19,906 unique visitors in August, the first time since February 2018, that unique visitors has dropped below 20,000. 298 leads were generated with most via individual tour pages, the first time since December 2017 that website has generated less than 300 leads. This drop in leads is not surprising, as we have seen it in years past. Essentially we are transitioning from a busy season to a quieter period though, with increase in traffic from previous years, we hope to keep leads volume at a decent level. The top five tours requested via GuideMatch: 1. Tower of London Tour - 37 leads 2. Westminster Abbey Tour - 15 leads 3. Classic London Tour - 11 leads 4. London Architecture Tour - Modern & Contemporary - 7 leads 5. British Museum Tour - 5 leads 5. Windsor Castle Tour - 5 leads Essentially, the top three tours remain the same with changes in the 4th and 5th positions. There was one new blog post on the Bloomberg Building and London Mithraeum Museum and one revised Blog Post on the Notting Hill Carnival. We are off the pace set for new blog posts in 2017 and so hoping that, with season slowing down, we can begin to add some new content to support the various tours. That said, work continues on Pinterest account to build up traffic from this source, which is second only to Google for search volume.

THE SILVER VAULTS. Daisy Woodman from the Silver vaults introduces us to her treasure trove in Chancery Lane Five levels below ground, behind a multi-ton steel door in Chancery Lane, lie the London Silver Vaults, the largest retail selection of silver in the world. The Vaults has over thirty specialist shops selling silver dating from the early 1600s to the present day. The story of the Vaults dates back to 1876 when The Chancery Lane Safe Deposit Company first opened its doors, its contents protected by guards armed with cudgels, cutlasses and shotguns. Used as a secure storage place for London’s silver dealers during the Second World War, it was re-built as retail units at the silver dealers, opening in coronation year 1953.. Reproduced by permission The Vaults became a ‘must-visit’ for British and international travellers who flocked there to buy quality silverware at competitive prices. In the 1950s, many American servicemen stationed in the UK came there to buy silver to take home to their wives and mothers; and English diplomats were required to buy their silver service there prior to an overseas posting. Twiggy and Anthony Hopkins shop at the Vaults, as did the late Earl of Snowdon and Gregory Peck. They also supply props for Downton Abbey and Pirates of The Caribbean. All vault owners are independent retailers, many third generation family businesses, with a fount of expert knowledge. With London recognised as the centre of the global silver market, the Silver Vaults want to encourage us to rediscover one of the capital’s best kept secrets. Daisy Woodman (email: [email protected])

THE WIDER EARTH A new theatre in the Jerwood Gallery of the Natural History Museum will be opened for the European premiere of The Wider Earth, a play about the young Charles Darwin and his journey on HMS Beagle. The play, which features seven actors, cinematic animation and puppets and will run until 30 December. Tickets are priced between £17.50 and £79.50. Further details at nhm.ac.uk

ASSOCIATION OF PROFESSIONAL TOURIST GUIDES www.guidelondon.org.uk 3 guiding news

FOOD AND FASHION From Tudor to Victorian times

The Royal Prerogative Henry VIII was well known as ‘a consumer of food and of women’ with a waistline that expanded by over twenty inches during his adulthood. A server, known as the ‘sewer’ would wash the royal hands in specially heated and scented water and dry them on a linen towel.

Then, on bended knee, the gentlemen and ushers of his Privy chamber would serve the prepared food and dishes, from which the king would sample whatever his appetite fancied. They might include venison, game pie, pheasant, swan, heron, conger eel, lamprey, salmon, artichoke, custards, fritters and jellies, followed by roast game, cream of almonds, fruit tarts, with many newly introduced and exotic foods for the king to taste such as porpoise.

Meat, veg and salt The salt cellar (salt salt) was a medieval symbol of both status and wealth. Salt was both the most important method of food preservation (smoking, drying etc.) and a necessary seasoning. The average daily consumption of salt was twenty grams, over three times the current recommended intake. A Tudor courtier’s daily diet was of around 4500-5000 calories and included a kilo of meat per person (one to three quarters of the daily diet). In contrast, the lower classes received mostly vegetables and pulses boiled up as stews.

Kitchens and Cooks When Henry took over Hampton Court Palace the kitchens were rebuilt first. Six hundred people were fed twice a day with two sittings at 10am and 4pm. Only men were employed in the kitchens with a spit-turner paid four pence a day. Roasting was an expensive way to cook as it required a large amount of fuel and a spit-turner. Other methods used were baking or boiling. In an age before ovenware pastry cases were cookpots. Six large fires in Hampton Court’s eighteen kitchens each burnt a ton of wood a day – roughly 1.3 million logs a year.

Sources of Food Food came from gardens, farms, fruit orchards, fish ponds and herb gardens with hunting – which Henry VIII enjoyed until his leg was damaged in a jousting tournament – a major source of meat such deer and wild boar with hares, squirrels, and rabbits also caught. Feathered game included pheasant, partridge, grouse, duck, goose, woodcock and snipe. The potato, indigenous to the Andes, is said to have been introduced by Francis Drake in 1586.

Style and Symbolism in Clothing Male dress was more extravagant than female during Henry VIII’s reign and consisted of five layers: gown, jerkin, doublet, hose and shirt. The look was one of masculine swagger and bulk Henry’s love of splendour and luxury, his lavish entertainments and his patronage of education and the arts established the English court as the foremost in Western Europe. Costume was used to show status, power, politics and wealth, conspicuous consumption being the most important ingredient. A man’s trade or profession could also dictate his costume. Royal fashion inspired common fashion while today street fashion inspires couture.

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Through Catherine of Aragon and her daughter Mary’s marriage to Philip of Spain Spanish styles became the height of fashion at court. “Spanish black” and a muted palette, expressions of sober luxury, replaced the jewel-like colours of Henry VIII’s time. Then Elizabeth I’s reign brought a love of bright, fresh colours and a passion for embroidery, an essential part of every woman’s education. Motifs applied to every garment were loaded with symbolism, which have to be decoded in order to understand dress at this time. Knotwork, flowers, animals, insects and natural phenomena, allegorical emblems, personal devices and colours carried specific meanings or references. All of these would have been familiar to contemporary observers, but to untrained eyes much of their significance is lost.

Make-up and Children Lead-based makeup was worn to lighten the skin and veins on the neck and bosom were painted in blue to heighten the effect. Babies were swaddled and then put into ‘frocks’ with hanging sleeves. From the age of six or seven boys were ‘breeched’, put into a scaled down version of adult dress. Girls wore adult styles from the age of five. Children did not wear specialised clothing until the late 1700’s.

Foppish Fashion Arrives From 1600-1625 an increasingly foppish and effeminate style was fashionable as worn by James I and his male favourites. During the reign of Charles I and Henrietta-Maria the fashion for embroidery declined and coloured silks and satins became fashionable with sheen of their fabrics replacing the surface decoration of embroidery. Lace was increasingly worn. By the early 1630’s the stiff neck ruffs gave way to falling lace collars. Men’s boots of this era often had butterfly straps for the attachment of spurs. By the mid 1600’s women’s hairstyles favoured tight buns, trailing curls and pearls. In the eighteenth century the mantua dress was in fashion and would be worn at events such as court birthdays with a plain lace cap. The 1770’s saw the fashion for very high hairstyles pinned with flowers and feathers. In the 1780’s neoclassicism was in fashion, hair styles became more natural and the empire line, chemise dress of muslin or chiffon was popular.

The Nineteenth Century By the early 1800’s Manchester’s cotton and linen mills, Nottingham’s lace factories, ribbons and silk manufacturing in Macclesfield and the woollen mills of Norwich and Paisley were busy as the mechanisation of the textile industry became one of the driving forces of the Industrial Revolution. There was less reliance on imported fabrics and, unlike imported silks, homespun clothing could be washed resulting in an improvement in standards of hygiene, The early 1800’s saw a new male silhouette: an hourglass coat, cinched in at the wait with puffed sleeve shoulders. In the 1870’s the fashion was for the bustle and pastel colours were predominantly worn, punctuated by black velvet chokers and ribbons.

Mourning Dress In the 1870’s a woman had to wear deep morning for a year, second mourning for nine months, ordinary mourning for three months and half mourning for six months, during which she could wear grey, white or mauve. Jewellery was not allowed until the second stage. Jet was very popular as wee memorial pieces containing a lock of the loved one’s hair. Augusta Harris

ASSOCIATION OF PROFESSIONAL TOURIST GUIDES www.guidelondon.org.uk 5 guiding news

DISSENT ON DISPLAY Private Eye editor Ian Hislop is the curator of a new exhibition I Object on the theme of dissent at the British Museum. One of the objects on display will be known to guides, the bronze head of Augustus, which lay buried for nineteen centuries in Sudan after it was cut off the statue of the emperor. Other objects include a pink ‘pussy hat’ worn on an anti-Trump march in Washington DC and a Banksy imitation cave drawing showing a hunter-gatherer from the ‘post-Catatonic era’ pushing a supermarket trolley. This was surreptitiously added to the BM’s display and stood unnoticed for three days before an alert from Banksy’s website. It was retained, classified as lost property by the BM and is now sold in replica at the gift shop. I Object exhibition at the British Museum until 20 January, admission £12 for adults. Wall art by ‘Banksymus Maximus’

THE CARBUNCLE CUP … AND THE This is the prize no architect wants to win. Every year Building Magazine asks its readers to vote for the new building they like the least. London has the dubious honour of providing the last three ‘winners’ of the competition: The Walkie Talkie (2015), the Lincoln Plaza block of flats in Docklands (2016) and the Nova Building in the new Victoria development (2017). This year’s winner was a £45 million leisure centre in Stockport, The Redrock Building, which has bee described as “garish, soulless” although developers claim that it has proved popular with locals since its opening last November. Other finalists were the rooftop extension to the Shankly Hotel in Liverpool; Beckley Point, a student housing block in and, from London: 20 Ambleside Avenue, a new house which has been compared to an electricity sub-station; the £375 million Gateway complex; and Haydn Tower, a thirteen acre residential development built around a Sainsbury’s superstore in . A more prestigious award is the Stirling Prize for the best British building. The shortlist consists of six buildings, two of which are in London: the Bloomberg Building (see August Guidelines) and Chadwick Hall in the University of Roehampton. The list is completed by Tate St Ives, which has already won the Museum of the Year Award, Bushey Cemetery in Hertfordshire, Storey’s Field Centre and Eddington Nursery in Cambridge and the Sultan Nazrin Shah Centre, Worcester College, Oxford. The winner will be announced Previous winner, the Walkie Talkie this month.

CROSSRAIL – THE TRAINS ARE LATE The opening of CrossRail, the £15 billion Elizabeth Line from Berkshire to Essex, has been postponed until next autumn after a series of construction delays. 200 million passengers are expected to use the line every year but its budget of £14.8 billion has been increased by £650 million, causing more financial problems for the already cash-strapped Transport for London

HARRY POTTER TRAIN Meanwhile an old steam train is turning a tidy profit for new owners. The GWR 5972 Olton Hall was built in 1937 and later sold for scrap. It was purchased by David Smith, owner of West Coat Railways and restored by an army of volunteers. When the makers of the Harry Potter films were looking for an authentic steam train they approached Smith who supplied them with Olton Hall. The steam engine has ended up at The World of Harry Potter Exhibition in Leavesdon, which attracts 6000 visitors a day.

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BELLE’S PAINTING The painting of Lord Mansfield’s mixed-race niece Dido Belle, long-attributed to Johann Zoffany, has now been re-attributed to the Scottish artist David Martin following a BBC Fake or Fortune programme. The painting shows Belle and her cousin Lady Elizabeth Murray, two young women brought up by the judge Lord Mansfield, who had made a famous anti-slavery judgement in 1772 when he ruled in the Somersett case, that a person could not be ‘owned’ by another under British law. The original painting is in Scone Palace in Scotland and a copy can be seen at Kenwood House. The 2014 film Belle told the story of this mixed-race girl brought up in white world as an equal by her uncle but not accepted as one by society.

WIND POWER INCREASES The world’s largest wind farm has opened off the Cumbrian coast. With a capacity of 693 megawatts (enough to power 590,000 homes) Walney Extension has overtaken London Array in the Thames Estuary as the world’s largest and will itself soon be overtaken by ones off the coast of East Anglia and Yorkshire. Wind farms provide 10% of the UK’s electricity.

TEA AND BEER GO DOWN Britain is falling out of love with the cuppa. The amount of tea bought last year was down 2.6 million kg – equivalent to 870 million cups, although sales of green and fruit tea rose. That other British favourite, draught beer, is also seeing a downturn with the number of pubs falling from 69,000 to 50,000 since 1980 (figures from the British Beer and Pub Association.)

ST PAUL’S BELLS In early June the bells of St Paul’s Cathedral were slowly lowered and taken to the foundry of John Taylor & Co in Loughborough, where they were cast in 1878. Here they were cleaned and fitted with new moving parts, then returned last month where they were blessed by the Dean and Bishop. They are expected to sound again on 1 November, their 140th birthday.

THE LADY DOCTOR’S DEBUT The thirteenth - and first female - Doctor who makes her debut in a new Sunday evening slot this month. Jodie Whittaker has been seen briefly in the role tumbling out of the Tardis (no jokes about women drivers, please) and she starts a ten episode series of the world’s longest running science fiction series on 7 October. Doctor Who was first portrayed by the late William Hartnell on the day after the assassination of President Kennedy in 1963. Meanwhile the Doctor Who Museum in Cardiff has been closed because of a lack of visitors.

CHURCH GOING Just thirteen per cent of English people now identify as Anglicans – as opposed to forty per cent in 1983. The drop has been most dramatic amongst the middle-aged while even in the over 55s only one in four identify as Anglicans (nearly half fifteen years ago). The major growth has not been from other faiths but from those who claim ‘no religious affiliation’: over half of all respondents and seventy per cent of those between eighteen and twenty four.

OLYMPIC NEWS Sadiq Khan has promised to invest £10 million a year over the next two decades to make at least half of the final 3,000 homes to be built at Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park ‘affordable’. A piece of the World Trade Center has been installed permanently in the Olympic Park near the Aquatic Centre by a charitable foundation called Since 9/11. Finally, the Erdinger Oktoberfest will be held in the Olympic Park until 28 October with live music, German food and beer in a tent big enough for 3,000 people and forty German waitresses in attendance.

ASSOCIATION OF PROFESSIONAL TOURIST GUIDES www.guidelondon.org.uk 7 RIDING THE RAILS – GUIDING ON THE DLR

In May this year an email floated into the office with a request for help from APTG in running East End discovery tours in conjunction with the DLR management team. Bravely Angela Morgan took up the challenge to show once again the professionalism of London blue badge guides. The aim of the project was to promote the DLR as an option to reach the untapped realms of the East End, to guide the route from Tower Gateway to Maritime on a special non-stop train. Following a trial run with Angela Morgan and Leo Heaton the decision was taken to add a thirty minute walking tour in Greenwich. The trial proved that it would be no mean feat to guide the twenty minute ride between the destinations. The team Angela put together proved up to the job with lively and amusing commentaries which included seventeen points that DLR wanted included. The guides worked alongside wonderful DLR support staff who made sure the day ran smoothly. The DLR Discovery Tours were scheduled to run at the weekends from 4 August – 9 September. They were advertised widely in London media including the East End advertisers and as a result the main participants were Londoners with an age range from the very young in prams to the more mature. They attracted a wide range of people a heartening number of younger people in their 20-30’s, a target group which can be hard to reach with other tours. One of the eight tours turned out to be the highlight of Dominic Burris North ‘s guiding career. A lovely lady called Betty Bush joined his tour. We learned that she is 96 and ¾ and had seen the publicity for the Discovery Tours in her local paper. To travel on the DLR was on her bucket list of things to do. It was truly an experience for her as she was talking about it a week later! We are very glad that we helped Betty achieve her dream. The Guides taking part in the initiative were: Angela Morgan, Leo Heaton, John Rasmussen, Anne-Marie Walker, Susan Pettit, Paula Cooze, Dominic Burris North, Mark Godowski and Sue Hyde. We are very grateful to Angela for her hard work in the midst of the season in getting this project off the ground and managing the process. NB: Just in case you plan to do a similar trip with your clients, the DLR trains from Tower Gateway normally run to Beckton. Change at Shadwell or Westferry for the Lewisham train. Paula Cooze

Thanks to Augusta Harris, Paula Cooze, Victoria Herriot, Rick Jones, Judy Pulley and all others for their contributions.

We love getting material from members. It's YOUR monthly magazine and Guidelines is the way we can communicate with each other through the medium of hard copy. Articles and images are always welcome.

APTG, 128 Theobald's Road, We welcome articles and photos from members, but contributions may be held over and London WC1X 8TN we reserve the right to edit them. Images should be high resolution – 300 ppi. Switchboard: 020 7611 2500 Direct line: 020 7611 2545 Please submit all copy and images by email to [email protected] by 15 October [email protected] for inclusion in the October issue. Editor: Eddie Lerner

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