HORNED [AKA PACMAN] CONCISE & PRECISE CARE SHEET KING

OVERVIEW

The rotund of the genus are popularly referred to as “Pac-Man frogs” due to their round shape and huge mouths, which are reminiscent of the iconic video game character. Although a number of are now available, various color morphs (including albino) of the Argentine Horned Frog (Ceratophrys cranwelli) and the Ornate Horned Frog (C. ornata) are most common. These frogs grow quite large and huge 4” adults are quite impressive, especially when they are eating a mouse.

ENVIRONMENT Conditions » Day Temp 78-85°F Night Temp 70-78°F Humidity 70-80%

Low wattage terrarium bulb that also provides 12-14 hours of daylight. Full spectrum lighting is Heat Source » beneficial. Any heat should be provided in manner that creates a gradient from the warmer to cooler end to the enclosure, and should be thermostat-controlled to ensure excessive heat is avoided.

A secure enclosure that maintains humidity is required. Small plastic terrariums are adequate for raising young frogs and a 10 gallon tank is sufficient for an adult. For a group of adult frogs 5 gallons should be added for each additional frog. One inch frogs can be raised in deli cups. The substrate should provide moisture. Damp HOUSING coconut coir covered with orchid or sheet moss works well. A large, shallow dish should be provided as a soaking pool. In small containers the orchid moss or other substrate should be changed out every 4 to 5 days as waste products, bacteria and other contaminants will accumulate. While changing out moss allow the frog to soak in a shallow depth of de-chlorinated lukewarm water for 10 minutes or so.

A variety of will be eagerly accepted, including crickets, roaches, kingworms, waxworms and butterworms. Horned frogs can also be raised using guppies or other feeder fish such as rosy reds (avoid goldfish). Prey items will usually be accepted if offered from forceps, and stubborn feeders are easy to tease to attack by gently tapping their snouts. Resist the temptation to hand feed as a big DIET frog can give a painful nip. Feed meals using insects or fish no greater in length than 50% of the frogs length) every day or two. Lightly dust crickets or other prey items with a quality reptile vitamin and calcium supplement once or twice a week. Large adults may accept adult mice, but these should be offered sparingly, if at all, to prevent obesity and related health problems. Only pre-killed (thawed-from- frozen) rodents should ever be used to prevent injury to the frog.

AMPHIBIAN SAFETY have moist, sensitive skins that absorb their environment. They should not be touched or exposed to chemicals. Only non-chlorinated water must be used in their care. Tap water may be treated to remove chlorine, but the purchase of ultra-purified water is recommended. Use disposable gloves when servicing their enclosures. Thoroughly wash your hands before touching any food to be offered or coming into contact with anything in the terrarium. To move frogs use a small clear cup or vial to trap them temporarily rather than touching them (even with gloved hands). If the use of mild cleaning solution or disinfectant is necessary rinse thoroughly with hot water and then rinse again. It is better to clean enclosures, water dishes or pools, etc. solely with hot water. When raising young frogs in small containers the damp moss or other substrate in contact with the frog should be changed every 4 to 5 days so the frog isn’t exposed to waste, bacteria or toxins.

This accurate care sheet is open source. The author encourages you to copy & share in the interest of the wellness of the critters. Written 2012 by Michael Andreas Jacobi. A PDF of this Concise & Precise Care Sheet may be downloaded at ExoticFauna.com.