The Langhe – Barolo and Barbaresco Now We Come To

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

The Langhe – Barolo and Barbaresco Now We Come To Tom Hyland Food & Drink I write about wine (and sometimes food) from around the world. The Langhe – Barolo and Barbaresco Now we come to the most famous examples of Nebbiolo: Barolo and Barbaresco, produced exclusively from Nebbiolo in the Langhe district in southern Pied- mont. I’ll go into greater depth about these two wines in future articles, so for now, I’ll merely provide a thumbnail sketch. Barolo – known as the “King of Wines and the Wines of Kings” – is produced from a zone comprised of eleven communes south of the city of Alba in the pro- vince of Cuneo. One of these communes, Barolo, lends its name to the wine, while other important communes include La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serra- lunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba. Traditionally, producers only aged their wines in grandi botti, but some producers in the 1970s and 1980s experimented with barriques, small French oak barrels. Today, only a few producers use barri- ques exclusively, as large casks as well as mid-size barrels known as tonneaux are regularly employed for the aging process. Regardless of aging, Barolo from a great site (or sites) from an outstanding growing season (as with 2010 and 2013) can age for 30-50 years, but even in an average vintage, a Barolo will drink well for 10-15 years. Aromatics are of red cherry, orange peel and tar, as well as notes of cedar (if aged in grandi botti), which change to balsamic as the wine matures after a few years in the bottle. These are powerful wines with rich tannins, yet the best examples offer finesse and elegance and are fine matches with foods such as rabbit, veal and lighter game. There are so many great producers – too many to list here (I'll write about the best Barolo producers in a future article). I’ve recommended a few wines at the end of the article. Paolo Manzone Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba 2014 - Aromas of red cherry, tar, orange peel and cedar. Medium-full, this has outstanding varietal purity, subtle wood notes, elegant tannins and very good acidity. Quite stylish! Approachable now, but best in 7-10 years. Very good value. Excellent.
Recommended publications
  • 2019 Roero Arneis Docg
    One of the legendary winemakers of the world, Bruno Giacosa crafted the most prestigious single-vineyard Barolo and Barbaresco wines during a career that spanned nearly eight decades. He joined the family business at the age of 15, representing the third generation of his Langhe winemaking family. Giacosa’s unfailing pursuit of perfection, his unrivaled palate and his intimate knowledge of vineyards in the Langhe quickly drew recognition and helped establish Piedmont as a leading wine region. In 1980, Giacosa began to acquire prime parcels in Serralunga d’Alba, La Morra and Barbaresco to produce wines that are rightly regarded as the finest expressions of Nebbiolo. His legacy rests with daughter Bruna, who continues to uphold her father’s winemaking philosophy to respect traditional techniques while using the best of modern technology. The goal is for each distinguished site to produce articulate, unique wines. 2019 ROERO ARNEIS DOCG Grape variety: Arneis Vineyards: Select vineyards in the villages of Vezza d’Alba, Monteu Roero, Santo Stefano Roero, Canale, Montà d’Alba Age of vines: 19-26 years Yield: 70 hL/ha Vinification: Stainless steel vats Length of fermentation: 25-30 days Malolactic fermentation: not developed Refinement: 4 months in stainless steel vats + 1 month in bottle Bottling: February 2020 Alcohol: 13.5% vol. Total acidity: 5.10 g/L pH: 3.30 Total extract: 22.5 g/L Sensory analysis: Intense straw colored with greenish glints. The nose presents lemon, pineapple, peach and apricot notes with floral hints. On the palate, it is fresh, full-bodied, with mineral notes and a persistent finish.
    [Show full text]
  • Renzo Seghesio • Monforte D'alba, Barolo Nebbiolo and Barbera Run-Through Renzo Seghesio’S Veins, Just As They Did for His Father, Francesco
    Renzo Seghesio • Monforte d'Alba, Barolo Nebbiolo and Barbera run-through Renzo Seghesio’s veins, just as they did for his father, Francesco. They are natives of Monforte d’Alba, the commune in Barolo known for producing commanding expressions of Nebbiolo. The family, since 1900, owns Cascina Pajana, a smaller division of the Ginestra Cru, made famous by Barolo big boys. Renzo studied winemaking in Alba and was a follower of Piedmont’s renaissance man Giuseppe Pinot-Gallizio, an accomplished painter and chemist as well as a scholar of archaeology and botany. Inspired by Giuseppe, Renzo continued his studies at the University of Turin and received a degree in biology. Returning to Piedmont in the 1960s, Renzo's intent was to bottle wine from his family's parcels, rather than sell the fruit. He succeeded in 1968, making his first wine in his family's garage in 1968. Roero Arneis 2018 A new addition to the Seghesio collection and first-time in the United States, the Arneis is a dear project from Renzo’s sons, Federico and Raffaele (who designed the minimalist label). Relative to other Roero Arneis, the Seghesio expression is a bit racier and leaner, yet still pretty with all its white flowers, apple crunch, and spritz-y summer citrus. Directly south of Canale, in Vezza d’Alba, the family owns and farms the estate of San Bernardino. Here, the soils are sand over a calcareous base presented by extreme inclinations, facing south and southwest. Fermentation takes-place in tank for 10 days, and ages on its lees for 6 months (also in tank)..
    [Show full text]
  • Giacomo Conterno 120Ml
    Sparkling 3 ne Wi Wine 2 Wine 1 Still REFRESHERS $7 PIEDMONTESE WINES BY THE GLASS ❦ Massimo ❦ ❦ More Massimo ❦ DINNER MENU Piedmontese Sparkling Wine, 150mL bitter aperitivo sweet & bitter aromatized grignolino Sparkling Rosé from Pinot Nero & Nebbiolo Contratto Bitter Asti, Italy Mauro Vergano Piedmont, Italy G.D. Vajra Barolo Vino Spumante Di Qualita Extra Brut Rosé NV Napoleon $9 John Adams dry Madeira A little rosé Champagne Henriques & Henriques Seco Especial Snacks $11 Piedmontese White Wines, 150mL La Caravelle Madeira, Portugal Erbaluce di Caluso Saucisson Sec $ Frasier Crane François Truffaut Bagna Cauda w/ Crispy & Crunchy Vegetables Ferrando La Torrazza 2019 11 rich, nutty Oloroso Sherry red wine-quinine apéritif Langhe (Chardonnay+Sauv+Blanc+Riesling+Nascetta) Lustau Don Nuño Jerez, Spain Byrrh French Catalonia Duck Terrine w/ Apple Mostarda Luigi Baudana Dragon 2018 $13 M.F.K. Fisher Don Quixote Roero Arneis Vietti 2019 $15 white vermouth on the rocks red vermouth on the rocks Choice of Appetizer Contratto Bianco Asti, Italy Lustau Vermut Rouge Xérès, Spain Langhe Chardonnay Panissa w/Kale, Red Beans & Parmigiano Poderi Aldo Conterno Bussiador 2017 $24 ❦ The Best of Barolo: Giacomo Conterno 120mL ❦ Luigi Baudana Langhe Bianco Dragon 2018 Piedmontese Red Wines, 150mL Barolo Cerretta 2010 $28 Agnolotti di Bacalà w/ Razor Clams & Parsley Giacomo Conterno Vietti Roero Arneis 2019 Verduno Peleverga Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 2004 $32 Castello di Verduno Basadone 2018 $15 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 1996 $36 Vitello Tonnato w/ Radish, Celery & Crispy Capers Erbaluce di Caluso Ferrando La Torrazza 2019 Barbera d’Alba Elio Grasso Vigna Martina 2017 $16 ❦ IGHLIGHTS FROM IEDMONT ❦ Langhe Nebbiolo H P Cantina del Pino $17 ❦ White Truffles from Alba supp $35 ❦ Sparkling Bramaterra Az.
    [Show full text]
  • Marchesi Di Barolo Cellar Wine Club Notes August 2017.Pages
    WINE CLUB CHRONICLE August 2017 issue no. 88 crushak.com THIS JUST IN Piemonte!!! How can we explain just how excited we are for this month’s wine club? The elusive, enigmatic wines of CELLAR WINE CLUB Piemonte are both in short supply and high demand, and you know how the economics of that usually work out… Wine: Marchesi di Barolo ‘Servaj’ Dolcetto 2015 and it’s just not everyday that an established, top-notch, Grape variety: Dolcetto Vinification: fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks total boss producer becomes available to us. Tasting notes: Can you say ch-ch-ch-ch-cherry bomb?! And then, lo and behold, an importer friend casually mentions that they might have a line on the wines of That’s we got right away on the nose of the “Servaj” Marchesi di Barolo! For context, this was one of the first Dolcetto 2015: perfectly ripe, sweetly perfumed Bing cherry spots Matt went when he biked through Piemonte. It was a fruit, tinged with almond and dried violet flowers. The no- 1982 Barolo, made by Marchesi di Barolo, that Chad oak treatment really lets the pure fruit shine, which is what Dolcetto does so well. drank when working as a busboy in the Seattle fine dining scene that turned him onto wine in the first place…oh yes. Drink: Now through 2020 We’re exultant, agog, over the moon here folks. Look Pairing: Hey, this is Italian wine after all; we had it with pizza forward to us carrying more of this producer in the future! topped with sausage and green olives, and it was a delight! Wine: Marchesi di Barolo ‘Maraia’ Barbera del Matt, Monferratto 2014 Grape variety: Barbera a.k.a.
    [Show full text]
  • Barbera D'alba
    BAROLO BARBERA D’ALBA DENOMINAZIONE DI ORIGINE CONTROLLATA SUPERIORE 2016 Selezioni di Vigneto ‘A Barbera that behaves like a Barolo’ is the expression used by old farmers to describe some special Barbera after an adequate aging. This is what we ask of our Superiore: to express her thousand profound emotions. Aldo Vaira DESCRIPTION: An outstanding example of Barbera from old vines, some dating back to 1949. Strained, deeply rooted plants produce the most tasteful berries. Vajra Barbera Superiore is a wine of intense aromatics, structure and longevity. VARIETY: 100% Barbera. VINEYARD AND TERROIR: Bricco delle Viole (Barolo), Bricco Bertone (Sinio). VINTAGE: 2016 was a beautiful, classic vintage. Locals called it “a farmer’s year” for what is a very rare combination of high quality, purity of aromatics and generous crop. After a mild winter, temperatures dropped in March with a lot of rain that enriched the water reserves. Flowering was abundant thanks to the gentle weather conditions, shaping the vintage into one of lift and energy over concentration. Night temperatures remained low throughout the Spring, and phenological ripening was delayed until the very end of the summer. It will be reminded as one of the longest-lasting vintages of recent days, with picking starting in September and well into late October, similarly to 2004, 2008 and 2013. HARVEST AND WINEMAKING: Fruit for Barbera d’Alba Superiore grows slower and with amazing thick skins. Thus, this is usually the last Barbera fruit picked at Vajra, sometimes overlapping the beginning of Nebbiolo harvest as well. Vinification lasts usually between 30 and 40 days, and is one of the longest active fermentations as well at the winery.
    [Show full text]
  • Barolo Barbaresco and Nebbiolo Wine Tasting Special Food Pairing
    From: Debbie [email protected] Subject: Barolo, Barbaresco and Nebbiolo wine tasting special food pairing Chicken Marsala Date: February 15, 2018 at 7:15 PM To: [email protected] Good evening fellow wine enthusiasts, Friday night we are having a taste of Italy with reds from northwestern Italy's Piedmont region where the Nebbiolo is the grape and Barolo DOCG is the king~ Join us if you can! Dinner Special: Chicken Marsala on angel hair pasta served with Caesar Salad When: Friday, February 16th Time: 4-8 PM Reservations call 503-589-0775 Tasting Cost: Full $36 Half Pour $20 2013 Pio Cesare Barbaresco $80 The 2013 Barbaresco is a gorgeous wine. Bright and translucent, with tons of Nebbiolo character, the 2013 exudes class. Sweet red cherry, tobacco, mint, anise and white pepper give the wine its bright, chiseled personality. Readers should expect a mid-weight, gracious Barbaresco built on perfume, acidity and structure. I would prefer to drink it over the next decade. 92 Points Vinous 2013 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis $72 Cavallotto is on a roll with some very impressive new releases. The 2013 Barolo Bricco Boschis is a tremendous effort that has an edge on the excellent 2010 vintage in my view. The wine shows a beautifully exuberant but elegant bouquet with the ethereal and undertone fruit and spice aromas you get with Nebbiolo. Although the wine is never overdone, it does show silky persistence and a long finish that comes from the noble nature of the tannins and the wine's textural finesse. Yet, it is playfully deceiving in a way because behind that polished grace, it delivers impressive depth and power.96 + Points Robert Parker 2013 Bruno Grimaldi Barolo “Camilla” $38 "Very perfumed with floral and honey character highlighting the ripe fruit.
    [Show full text]
  • A Beginner's Guide to Nebbiolo, One of Italy's Great Grapes
    A Beginner’s Guide to Nebbiolo, One of Italy's Great Grapes PJPhoto69/iStock A Beginner’s Guide to Nebbiolo, One of Italy's Great Grapes Mar 28, 2018 | 10:16 am By Stacy Slinkard , Staff Writer There's more to this varietal than barolo and barbaresco Northern Italy’s most renowned red-wine grape is the classic nebbiolo, which produces wines that are full-bodied and wildly age-worthy. Most know this grape from the two famous regions of Barolo and Barbaresco, both hill towns in the Piedmont region. (As with many Old World wines, the place name and not the grape name appears on the label.) Despite the aging potential and remarkable complexity of barbaresco and barolo, nebbiolo can be a tricky grape to grow. It has comparatively thin skins (making it prone to disease and pests) and is a late-ripening grape (typically harvested in mid-October), so it can be challenging to bring it to full maturity in northerly climes, especially in cooler years. The very name of the grape suggests this: It derives from nebbia, Italian for “fog” — appropriate because fog blankets Piedmont’s vineyards much of the year, often extending the ripening time for this finicky grape. Those thin skins mean that the wines it produces are usually considerably lighter in color than many anticipate. The aromas can also be surprisingly subdued, with bright red berry fruit, florals that lean heavily to crushed rose petals, and sometimes warm cinnamon spice. First impressions can be an illusion. Once you sip good examples of nebbiolo-based wine, though, you are introduced to tannins that never let go, zippy acidity, and bright cherry fruit flavors that are only amplified by notes of leather and earth.
    [Show full text]
  • 2020 VINTAGE CHART Bottles to Save for Later and Which to Enjoy 1949, 1947, 1945 a GENERAL RATINGS MATURITY P Right Now
    GREAT OLDER VINTAGES FRANCE opping open a bottle of wine shouldn’t be a shot Pomerol/ in the dark. To aid in your vinous adventures, Saint-Émilion: Wine Enthusiast is here with advice on which 1989, 1985, 1982, 1978, 1970, 1964, 1961, 1959, 1955, 1953, 2020 VINTAGE CHART bottles to save for later and which to enjoy 1949, 1947, 1945 A GENERAL RATINGS MATURITY P right now. Just check our latest vintage chart Médoc: 1986, 1982, 1978, GUIDE TO THE 98–100 Classic to get an idea of what to expect. But remember, while our 1970, 1966, 1961, 1959, 1955, Hold QUALITY & 94–97 Superb expert reviewers base these ratings and maturity estimates 1953, 1949, 1947, 1945 90–93 Excellent Can drink, not yet at peak DRINKABILITY on their vast tasting experience and interviews with local Graves: 1982, 1978, 1970, OF THE 87–89 Very Good Ready, at peak maturity 1964, 1959, 1955, 1953, 1949, 83–86 Good winemakers, we can’t absolutely guarantee every bottle will 1947, 1945 WORLD’S Can drink, may be past peak live up or down to generalizations—in the world of wine, WINES 80–82 Acceptable Sauternes: 1988, In decline, may be undrinkable NV Not Vintage Year there are exceptions to every rule. Maturity estimates also 1986, 1983, 1976, 1975, 1967 NR Not Rated Not a declared vintage/no data assume proper storage conditions over the life of the wine. Red Burgundy: 1985, 1978, 1976, 1971, 1969, United States 1959, 1952, 1949, 1947, 1945 Region Wine Variety 2018 2017 2016 2015 2014 2013 2012 2011 2010 2009 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2001 2000 1999 1998 1997 1996
    [Show full text]
  • Piedmont (Piemonte)
    Piedmont (Piemonte) growing occurs south of the Po Valley, in the provinces of Asti, Alessandria, and Cuneo. Within these provinces, the Monferrato and Langhe hills are planted with vineyards. Soils are predominantly calcareous marl and sandstone with varying percentages of clay and sand, Piedmont has a continental climate and the Alps to the north produce effect, In the Langhe and Monferrato hills, many of the best south facing vineyards planted with Nebbiolo are known as in the Piedmontese dialect,. Varietals Nebbiolo, is thin-skinned & produces wines of high acidity and tannin. The late-ripening Nebbiolo, together with Dolcetto and Barbera are the principal Piedmontese red grapes. Dolcetto, is the earliest to ripen and produces tannic, fruity wines, lower in acid and are suited to producing wines suitable for youthful consumption. Barbera is widely planted red grape. It has high acidity but low tannin. Other lesser indigenous red grapes of Piedmont include Brachetto, Grignolino, Ruchè, Croatina, Vespolina, and Freisa. varietal and is used in the production of the sparkling wines of Asti. Cortese, Arneis, Erbaluce and Favorita (Vermentino) are the other white grapes of the region,( in diminishing order of importance.) International grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, have been planted since the 1980s, although usage of such non-traditional grapes is limited to the less-specific DOCs and IGP wines. Piedmont has more DOC zones than any other wine region in Italy at the close of 2010, there were 16 DOCGs and over The most prestigious DOCGs in Piedmont are Barolo & Barbaresco, which are located along the Tanaro River, an area surrounded by the larger Langhe DOC.
    [Show full text]
  • Barolo Del Comune Di La Morra DOCG
    Barolo Del Comune di La Morra DOCG Marcarini is located in the heart of La Morra, a quaint hilltop village with a population of 2,758, surrounded on all sides by perfectly manicured hillside vineyards. The building goes back to the 1700s and is connected to a medieval tower. The winery’s historic cool, underground cellars are ideal for classic élevage. The exquisite Marcarini range features an embracing style, outstanding longevity and that blockbuster structure Piedmont is famous for. Marcarini, founded in the 1850s, was among the very first in the Langhe area to designate single vineyards on its labels – as early as the 1950s. In fact, Boschi di Berri Pre-Fillossera, one of its historic crus, is over 150 years old and planted with rare, pre-Phylloxera Dolcetto vines. All their vineyards are estate-owned in some of the most sought-after areas of the region known for winemaking excellence. These wonderful locations, the steepness of the slopes, the nature of the terrain, sun exposure and exceptional microclimate are not only conducive to top wines, but to non-aggressive, natural vineyard management. Vineyard surface covers 42 of the estate’s total 62 acres (17 and 25 hectares respectively). In 2015, Marcarini decided to make a new Barolo that best represented the unique terroir of the La Morra area and its Tortonian soils. The goal was to maintain their traditional style, but to make an elegant wine that reaches its peak in a shorter amount of time. The result is a Barolo wine that is more approachable and enjoyable at a young age.
    [Show full text]
  • 2014 Barolo and Barbaresco - Celebrating an Underrated Year in Piedmont
    https://www.forbes.com/sites/tomhyland/2019/02/25/2014‐barolo‐and‐barbaresco‐celebrating‐an‐ underrated‐year‐in‐piedmont/?fbclid=IwAR01G13yQhXB9M‐ ET2XGy1VkY_0lvJZWuUz5BD8FZN0XHpijPeX2k4hfqGM#6b2d09626c36 2014 Barolo and Barbaresco - Celebrating An Underrated Year In Piedmont Tom Hyland Contributor Food & DrinkI write about wine (and sometimes food) from around the world. Vineyards in the commune of Serralunga d'Alba in the Barolo zone.PHOTO ©TOM HYLAND There have been so many successful vintages in Italy's Piedmont region over the past 15‐20 years, so a less‐than‐great year every now and then may not be that surprising. Consider 2014 for example, a vintage that has been less than enthusiastically praised by many mainstream wine publications. The thinking here is that the offerings of Barolo and Barbaresco from 2014 are not as powerful as the examples from recent years such as 2013 and 2010. But does that mean that the 2014 vintage was not a success? I disagree quite strongly. The word was out early on 2014, given the cool temperatures and rainy conditions of that particular growing season; add to that the fact that there were hailstorms in both Barolo and Barbaresco that caused notable damage in some vineyards, and you have a recipe for ordinary wines. But anyone writing about wine should understand that you don't judge a wine ‐ or vintage ‐ until you taste; when you base your opinion on the weather report, you're often wrong. Having tasted dozens of these wines, I can state that not only is 2014 a successful year for Barolo and Barbaresco, it is an excellent year, with wines of admirable structure and complexity.
    [Show full text]
  • Barolo-I-Am-Not-Ready-Wait BAROLO: I AM NOT READY
    https://grapecollective.com/articles/barolo-i-am-not-ready-wait BAROLO: I AM NOT READY. WAIT! BY JOSHUA ARANDA PUBLISHED ON: 4/30/2016 If you are a lover of traditional wine, an aged Barolo is on your short list of wines to experience in your lifetime, on par with Grand Cru Burgundy, top growth Bordeaux and old-school Napa Valley (It’s all about Heitz). So what is the problem with this sleeping giant of northern Italy? Well, Barolo can intimidate upon release; it is a beast on the loose. And this can pose a problem. An experienced Barolo drinker understands that the wine is best enjoyed after some aging, but how does one impress on an earnest, casual drinker that Barolo will be great in a few years, so he/she should wait? In the current age of fast consumerism, order-now-and-get-tomorrow and binge Netflix show-watching, can consumers be expected to wait and spend more for a certain wine in a sea of alternatives? Barolo is located in the southern part of Piedmont in the north of Italy. Piedmont is the second largest of Italy's 20 regions and borders with France, Switzerland and the Italian regions of Lombardy, Liguria, Aosta Valley and Emilia Romagna. Like most of central and southern Piedmont, the climate in Barolo is continental and influenced by the Tanaro River. The eastern part of Barolo, which includes Serralunga d’Alba, Castigline Falletto and Monforte d’Alba, have soils higher in sand, limestone, iron, phosphorus, and potassium, which render very powerful and austere wines.
    [Show full text]