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Home , Geneva Spur, Khumbu Icefall, Mount Everest

Climb for climate expedition

Mount Everest expedition, - Southeast ridge route Cost: US$ 37990

March 29, 2013 - June 6, 2013 Group size: 6 to 12 members

Expedition leader: Erik Ravenstijn Eastern ,

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Index

Introduction 3

About Mount Everest 4

Our Mount Everest expedition 5

Climbing route 6

Included in cost 9

Itinerary 10

Experience required 11

Leadership 12

Health 13

Personal equipment needed 14

Booking 15

More information, questions and contact 15

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Introduction

We are proud to offer a top quality expedition to the of ... the Everest. Everest is probably one of the most coveted peaks in , being the highest with 8848 meters above .

Mount Everest from Kala Pattar

Some of the benefits of our expedition:

 A private sherpa for each member on the attempt, who climbs with you from basecamp to the summit and back. All sherpas are Mount Everest summiteers.  Outstanding medical support, with doctors available in basecamp and trained and certified medical staff high on the mountain.  More than enough oxygen and spare oxygen, also spare oxygen masks and regulators.  Western expedition leader, Mount Everest summiteer, with at least 10 years of experience in organizing expeditions and alpine climbing. The expedition leader has climbed this route on Mount Everest before.

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About Mount Everest

The Mount Everest is 8848 meter high and is located in the eastern Himalaya, on the border of Nepal and . The first attempt on the mountain was from the side in 1922, but it was not until 1953 that Sir and summited. There is not total certainty that Hillary and Tenzing where the first to summit, since and Andrew Irvine never came back from their summit attempt in 1924. Until today, most climbers believe that Mallory and Irvine didn't make it to the summit given the circumstances, but nobody knows for sure. In 2006 the following statistics were known about Mount Everest: out of the 10000 summit attempts around 3000 succeeded and around 200 climbers died on the mountain. Mount Everest provides some of the coldest and windiest weather on our planet.

Source: Explorers Web

April, May, September and the beginning of October are the best months for climbing on Everest. June, July and August offer warmth and not so much wind, but the extreme snowfall due to the makes the climbing nearly impossible, although the beginning of June offers some possibilities.

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Our Mount Everest expedition

Our Mount Everest expedition begins in , capital of Nepal, on March, 30. We pick you up from the international airport of Kathmandu and bring you to the Summit hotel (3 stars).

We will stay a few nights in Kathmandu to rest from the international flight and to prepare for the expedition. After a few nights we will take a plane to (2800 meter), from where we start our trekking to Mount Everest basecamp. We will arrive in Mount Everest basecamp around April 10. After a few days of rest we start our acclimatization tours to the higher camps on the mountain. During these acclimatization tours our highest camp reached is camp 3 (7300 meter). In the beginning of May the acclimatization tours to the higher camps are finished. We will take more than a week rest in basecamp (or in the villages below basecamp), before we start looking for a weather window in which we can climb to the summit. The warmest and calmest weather is often around half May - the end of May.

Once a window of calm weather appears, we will climb from basecamp to the summit in 5 days. On the first day we climb from basecamp to camp 1, on the second day from camp 1 to camp 2, etcetera and on the fifth day from camp 4 to the summit and back to camp 3 or camp 2.

Our sherpa team will install all camps and will carry all necessary food, kitchen equipment, stoves, oxygen and gas and also each member's sleeping bag and matress to the high camps. This way you don't have to haul heavy bags up the mountain, but just some personal clothes, climbing equipment, snacks, water and other small equipment (headlamp, photocamera, etc.). You will have more energy left, you will feel more rested and will climb much faster on the summit day, which will be a contribution to your safety.

Together with the other expeditions on Mount Everest, we will fix rope on all the difficult and dangerous sections along the route.

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Climbing Route

Route from Mount Everest basecamp to the summit

Our trekking towards Mount Everest basecamp starts in the village of Lukla (2800 meter). The route from Lukla to Mount Everest basecamp (5300 meter) is a path without any technical difficulties.

Namche Bazaar, capital of the Sherpas, on the trekking route to Everest basecamp.

From Mount Everest basecamp (5300 meter) the real climbing begins.

Basecamp - camp 1 From basecamp to camp 1 the has to be negotiated, a chaotic glacier with steep and unstable ice towers that can collapse at any moment. The is one of the most dangerous parts of . It begins just after basecamp and ends just before camp 1, at around 6100 meter.

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Camp 1 Camp 1 is situated around 6100 meter on snow and ice and in between , at the end of the Khumbu Icefall.

Camp 1

Camp 1 (6100 meter) - camp 2 (6500 meter) The route from camp 1 to camp 2 follows a gentle-angled glacier. Crevasses are the main danger here, but these are all secured with fixed ropes.

Camp 2 (6500 meter) Camp 2 is situated on a moraine next to the glacier. From camp 2 we have a good view on the Face, a 45 degree snow and ice wall that runs from a few hundred meters above camp 2 to the summit of Lhotse.

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Lhotse Face, a 45 degree steep snow and ice wall, seen from camp 2

Camp 2 (6500 meter) to camp 3 (7300 meter) From camp 2 the route goes straight towards the Lhotse Face over a gentled sloped glacier. The Lhotse Face begins at 6750 meter and camp 3 is situated right on it, at 7300 meter.

Camp 3 Camp 3 is situated right on the snow and ice of the Lhotse Face.

Camp 3 (7300 meter) to camp 4 (South Col, 7900 meter) From camp 3 the steep Lhotse Face is followed up to 7750 meter. From that point, an ascending traverse is made towards the South Col. This stage is mainly over snow and ice, but there are also two rock pitches to be climbed. The first one is the Yellow Band at 7600 meter, an approximately 30 meter high rock slab. The second one is just before South Col, at around 7850 and is called the .

Camp 4 (South Col) Camp 4 is the highest camp and is situated on the South Col, a broad saddle between Mount Everest and the Lhotse (8511 meter).

Camp 4 - summit The last stage from camp 4 to the summit is around 950 vertical meters, quite a distance at this ! From South Col the route starts with moderate snow slopes up to 40 degrees up to 'The Balcony' at approximately 8400 meter. In years with little snow, some short rock steps must be climbed on this part of the route. At 'The Balcony' the route joins the southeast ridge. The route first follows low-angled snow slopes from 'The Balcony', but soon the snow steepens up to 45 degrees and some easy, but steep rock slabs have to negotiated. This type of climbing is encountered until the South Summit at 8750 meters is reached. From here a knife-edge ridge of snow and easy rock will take you to the , a 10 meter high rock wall (grade II UIAA, YDS class 2 to 3 ). After the Hillary Step at 8870 meter, easy slopes will lead you to the highest point of .

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Included in cost

Included in cost Excluded Private sherpa on summit attempt for each member. Flight from your home country Our experience is that this will increase your safety. If to Kathmandu and from other members go down on their summit attempt, you Kathmandu back to your home can still go up with your sherpa. country. A better than 1:1 ratio sherpas:members Personal insurances. Western expedtion leader (Mount Everest summiteer), Items of a personal nature, who has a minimum of 10 years experience in such as: laundry, drinks in organising expeditions and who is trained in medical Kathmandu, souvenirs. emergency situations. Doctors in basecamp, all necessary medicines (except All meals and drinks in from special personal medicines, if you have any), Kathmandu ($20 a day). emergency oxygen and a gammow bag. All meals and drinks on the Cook in basecamp, who prepares all food and drinks in trekking from Lukla to basecamp. basecamp ($20 a day). Airport pick up and drop off. Visa for Nepal. All wages, insurances and bonusses for all personnel. Vaccinations Transportation of all personal (maximum: 40 kilo) and Personal gear (sleeping bag, group equipment Kathmandu - basecamp - Kathmandu. matress, , ice axe, Transportation of all group gear, all oxygen, all food and harness, helmet, clothes, all sleeping bags and matresses from basecamp to the headlamp, sunglasses, etc.). high camps by our expedition sherpas. Transportation of your personal Permit for climbing Mount Everest. Liaison officer for the gear to Kathmandu and from expedition. Kathmandu back to your home country after the expedition. All necessary transportation costs for all members and personnel to from Kathmandu to basecamp and Vaccinations. back. Snacks for in basecamp and on the mountain (although Nights in a hotel after the 4 it is advised to bring some of your personal favourite included nights in the Summit snacks). hotel in Kathmandu. Food and drinks for in basecamp: 3 meals a day prepared by our basecamp cook and an unlimited amount of drinks. Food and drinks in the high camps: 3 meals a day (if you have the appetite for it at high altitude) and an unlimited amount of drinks. Toilet tent, kitchen tent, dining tent, tables, chairs and shower tent for in basecamp. Toilet tent in camp 1 (6100 meter) and camp 2 (6500 meter), sherpa cook and kitchen in camp 2. Seven 4-liter oxygen cilinders of the brand Summit Oxygen. We usually only use five 4-litre cilinders on the summit attempt, but we will take some extra for reserve . Weather forecast, provided by Meteo Exploration. Oxygen masks and oxygen regulators, plus reserves. Oxygen, oxygen masks and regulators for our sherpas. Internet in basecamp. Group laptop in basecamp. Satellite telephone for communication and emergencies. Walkie talkies for each member, for communication and emergencies. 4 nights in Kathmandy in a 3-star hotel (Summit hotel): 2 nights before the expedition and 2 nights after. All accomodation costs on the trekking from Lukla to Mount Everest basecamp and back to Lukla. All necessary tents, kitchen equipment, gas, stoves, ropes, ice srews, snow pickets, rock anchers, carabiners, slings, emergency oxygen and other group equipment for in the high camps.

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Itinerary

March Arrival in Kathmandu, we pick you up at the airport, welcome dinner. 29

March Day in Kathmandu for preparation and resting from the international flight. 30

March Flight Kathmandu - Lukla (2800 meter). Hike from Lukla to Monjo (2800 meter). 31

April 1 Monjo (2800 meter) - (3400 meter).

April 2 Rest day in Namche Bazaar.

April 3 Namche Bazaar - (3800 meter).

April 4 Tengboche - Pheriche (4200 meter).

April 5 Pheriche - (4400 meter).

April 6 Rest day in Dingboche

April 7 Dingboche - Lobuche (4900 meter).

Lobuche - Kala Pattar (5550 meter, amazing views towards Mount Everest from here) - Gorak Shep April 8 (5180 meter)

April 9 Gorak Shep - Mount Everest basecamp (5350 meter).

April 11 - Climbing period Mount Everest. June 1

June 2 Basecamp - Pangboche (3900 meter).

June 3 Pangboche - Namche Bazaar.

June 4 Namche Bazaar - Lukla.

June 5 Flight Lukla - Kathmandu.

June 6 Celebration lunch in Kathmandu.

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Experience required

Technical demands You should be able to climb moderate snow slopes (up to around 40 degrees), without a rope. You should be able to climb ice, steep snow and moderate rock (rock up to grade II UIAA or YDS scrambling class 2 to 3) with fixed ropes. Some years there can be some very steep snow or ice in the Khumbu Icefall or on the Lhotse face, so you should have a good cramponing and ice axe technique for these difficulties.

Altitude experience You should have experience above 6000 meters, preferably above 7000 meters.

Physical condition Your physical condition should be superb. What is a superb physical condition? This cannot be explained in hard numbers. For the one running a marathon in 3 hours is sufficient, for the other riding the bike for 200 kilometers a couple of times per week works. If you have any doubts about your physical condition, please contact us and we can discuss the matter.

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Leadership

The expedition leader is a western guide and has a minimum of 10 years experience with organizing expeditions and alpine climbing, is a Mount Everest summiteer and is trained in medical emegency situations.

The expedition leader is intensively trained in emergency situations like:

 reanimation  hypothermia  overheating  large and life threatening cuts  poisoning  burns  bruises and bone fractures  seizures  damage to eyes  choking, swallowing of a non food object

The expedition leader of the Mount Everest expedition 2013 is Erik Ravenstijn.

Besides our western guide, also sherpas will come along to assist. Our sherpas are all Mount Everest summiteers. We will have a sherpa : member ratio better than 1:1. During the summit attempt, every member will have a private sherpa to climb with.

We don't only assist you on the mountain, we also like to give you advise for your training schedule, for this expedition. If you don't need this advise, that's fine with us too, of course.

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Health

We take a large medical kit with us on our expedition, you only need to bring your personal medicines, if you have any.

We have a doctor team in basecamp, which is standby 24 hours a day.

We always have a satellite telephone and walkie talkies with us, for communication and emergencies.

If you are interested in this trip, but you have doubts about your health or fitness, please contact our team and we can discuss the matter.

Everyone who books this trip, should sign a statement in which his or her medical record is written. If the Climb for climate team considers the medical situation of a member as potentially dangerous, the Climb for climate team will contact this member as soon as possible to discuss the situation.

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Personal equipment needed

 Boots for -40 degrees Fahrenheit/Celcius (Millet, La Sportiva, that kind of brands).  Down suit (better than down pants + down jacket) for -40 degrees Fahrenheit/ -40 degrees Celcius (The , Mountain Hardwear, Mountain Equipment, etcetera make these).  Waterproof gloves for -22 degrees Fahrenheit/-30 degrees Celcius (Black Diamond Guide glove is a very good one, tested on the summit of Everest by the Climb for climate team!).  Water resistant mittens for -40 degrees Fahrenheit/-40 degrees Celcius, for when the gloves get to cold.  Warm sleeping bag for in basecamp, camp 1 and camp 2, for -13 degrees Fahrenheit/-25 degrees Celcius.  A warm sleeping bag for camp 3 and 4 on the mountain is not necessary, since you already have your down suit to climb and to sleep in. This works very well (Climb for climate Everest experience) and it would be a waste of energy to haul a 2kg sleeping bag up the mountain. For survival in very cold conditions you could consider to bring a very light down sleeping bag to the highest camps.  Pee bottle (at least 1 liter!!!).  Thin liner gloves for under the large gloves and mittens (icebreaker is a very good brand for this).  Crampons - although there can be some sections of steep snow and ice, very technical crampons are not necessary - the type 'Grivel G12' will be sufficient.  Ice axe, which also works in steep snow and ice.  Climbing harness.  Jumar, combined with prusiks/slings.  2 carabiners.  One 120cm sling.  One 40cm sling.  Thermo underwear.  Headlamp running on lithium batteries.  Some fleece jerseys.  Windproof and breathable climbing pants.  Waterproof and breathable jacket with hood.  Waterproof and breathable pants.  Waterproof gloves for 14 degrees Fahrenheit/-10 degrees Celcius.  Windproof liner gloves.  Comfortable, quick-drying and warm clothes for in the basecamp.  Balaclava or warm cap: with an oxygen mask on your face and a down suit on, a warm cap is the better option.  socks: bring a lot (six pairs or so) of your favorite brand (falke, smartwool, x-socks etc.), since the expedition will last two months.  Backpack 60 liter.  Duffle bags for transportation of your gear from Kathmandu to Mount Everest basecamp(take care that these are waterproof).  Two 0,5 liter nalgene bottles for in your downsuit (the 1 liter type won't fit).  Two 1 liter thermo bottles of a brand that really works (like Shira, Sigg).  Personal hygiene kit.  Sleeping matress.  Candies for your throat (this helps preventing getting a cough).  Energy bars, power gels etc. for the climb.  1 pair of hiking shoes for the trail to basecamp.  Sunglasses that do not become steamy.  Ski goggles that fit to your oxygen mask (take a spare one with you!).  Sunblock.  Lipstick that protects against the sun.  Personal medication (if you have any).

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Booking

You can book this trip by filling in the booking form on www.climbforclimate.com, or by sending us an email or giving us a call.

More info, questions and contact

For more info, questions and contact, you can email us at: [email protected]

Or you can give us a call: Telephone number of our office in the Netherlands: 0031 – 6 – 44181032 Telephone number of our office in Kathmandu, Nepal: 00977 – 9851022394

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