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Self-Adjusting #32-001 A 18 pcs. RING GUARDS Get 9 YGF & 9 WGF organized & (1 of each size & width) The Ideal Solution for Large have the $50.40 Knuckles! sizes you #32-001 B 18 pcs. 18 YGF {1 of each size This Self-Adjusting Ring Guard has a need at your & width) $50.40 recessed leaf spring that assures a firm fingertips. fitting over knuckles. Works smoothly and FREE #32-001 C 27 pcs. has a comfortable "feel". No unsightly wires introductory 18 YGF (2 of each size) or springs to look at. Has a jewelry look that box included. 9 WGF (1 of each size) won't detract from the ring. $75.60 VOLUME 19 NUMBER 2 FEBRUARY 1995 Fried's 22nd TM HOROLOGICAL Horological Tour 19
Official Publication of the American Watcl::makers-Clockmakers Institute A Holder for Joe Cerullo 2 President's Message Machining Large Henry B. Fried 4 Questions & Answers Diameter Work Fred S. Burckhardt 8 Rock Quarry in the Jeweler's Marshall F. Richmond 11 Pickle Barrel Lathe Course in Jewelry Repair, Part 4 24 Fred S. Burckhardt 14 Management Part 10
J.M. Huckabee 16 As A Clockmaker Turns Fabrique Developing Techniques for the Steady Rest _, D'Ebauches Stanley McMahan 27 Affiliate Chapters Column Keep Talking 36 David Christianson 28 The Novice Watchmaker On Band Attachment Museum Henry B. Fried 30 Bonniksen's Karrusel Watches Part 1 Donations
Archie B. Perkins 32 Technically Watches 41 Antique Watch Restoration, Part CX
Leo A. J aroslaw 38 Repeater, Quarter Striker, Petite/Grande Sonnerie & Music Box Clocks, Part 5 AWi Building Update HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copy righted by the American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincin 48 nati, Ohio 45211, for $45.00 per year ($4.50 per copy) in the United States and DEPARTMENTS $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Second class postage paid at Ask Huck 10 Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL Scholastically Speaking 20 TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Association News 22 News of the Trade 42 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Classified Ads 44 Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. PHONE: (513) 661-3838, Advertisers' Index 48 AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX: (513) 661-3131. *Fellows of the Amerian Watchmakers Institute* Robert F. Bishop *Orville R. Hagans Robert A. Nelson James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman *Hamilton E. Pease George Daniels Harold J. Herman Milton C. Stevens Henry B. Fried Gerald G. Jaeger Marvin E. Whitney Josephine F. Hagans *Deceased
Executive and Editorial Offices President's Message AWI Central P.O. Box J LOI I 3700 Harrison Avenue There has been a lot of talk and trade press about the Cincinnati, OH 45211 future for watch and clockmakers. The Swiss estimate Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fax: (513) 661-3131 there will be a worldwide shortage of as many as 25,000 AWI Technical Hotline: (513) 661-4636 skilled watchmakers in the near future. This does not in clude clockmakers. Milton C. Stevens: Editor Julie Wesling Whaley: Associate Editor We at AWI, along with the remaining schools and in Diane M. DeVillez: Art & Production Director cluding the NAWCC, are committed to educate our members. We continue to do Donna Baas: Advertising Manager this in many ways. Sharon McManus: Circulation Manager However, does every watchmaker need to be trained to the highest degree? Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager Will every watchmaker in the future be making his or her living working on Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator minute repeaters and tourbillons? I don't think so. There seem to be a lot of Technical Editors varying opinions on how much and what should be taught. Today at the schools Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee we are seeing more middle aged students who are displaced from their first ca James H. Broughton John P. Kenyon Fred S. Burckhardt John A Nagle reers and who have chosen horology as their new career. We are seeing fewer David A. Christianson Archie B. Perkins young people directly from high school choosing horology as a career. Charles Cleves Robert D. Porter Joe Crooks Marshall R. Richmond In order to consider what curriculum should be taught, we first have to ask Wes Door Marvin E. Whitney ourselves the question, "What does this student need to learn to leave here and Henry B. Fried become a productive person in our field, so they can make a living and support AWI Officers their family?" In order to answer that question, I believe we need to handle each Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: President student individually, and to have more than one set curriculum. M. R. Carpenter, CMC, CMEW: First Vice President Let's also take a look at the employment picture. How many choices does the Henry Frystak, CMW: Second Vice President Fred S. Burckhard!: Secretary average graduating horologist have available? Suppose a person chooses a cur Marvin E. Whitney: CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer riculum designed to teach them "watchmaking" the way it has been taught in
AWi Directors Europe for the past one hundred years. Then, upon graduation, they can only get Robert F. Bishop, CMEW, FAWI a job in their area working for a major brand-name watch company repairing James H. Broughton, CMEW, FAWI quartz watches. It seems to me that this was not optimizing the education pro Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW Wes Door, CMW cess. Ronald Iverson, CMC Let's face it, not everyone who goes to medical school becomes a micro Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI brain surgeon. It is my opinion that the schools should be designed to teach the John A. Nagle Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAWI basics for both traditional mechanical as well as electronic quartz watches based Robert D. Porter, CMW on possible employment opportunities. Marshall F. Richmond, CMW This way a graduate can begin to be productive after graduation. At that Greg Hostetter, CC: Affiliate Chapter Director point, organizations like AWI can help give continuing education for years to Charles F. McKinney: Research & Education Council come. An individual is free to advance as far as they desire to go. Continuing Director Wes Door, CMW: Immediate Past President education is elective, and can be provided at any time in that person's future.
Milton C. Stevens, FAW!: Executive Director James Lubic: Associate Executive Director David Lafleche: Administrative Director Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical Director
Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited with· out written permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Copyright © 1995 by the American Watchmakers-Clock· ON THE FRONT: This cactus in Tuscon, Arizona was photographed by Jack makers Institute. Goldstein of Cranford, New Jersey. 2 Horological Times/February 1995 1722 Madison Avenue Will. S. McCaw Company Tel 419/243-3720 Toledo, Ohio 43624 Fax 419/243-0321 WHOLESALE JEWELRY Since 1913 GENERIC MATERIAL TO FIT: RO LEX
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Horological Times/February 1995 3 Questions & Answers
By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC
I am writing to get information on the clock in receiving pulses to actuate the stylus. This has perhaps Q • these photos (see Figures 1 and 2). The Hawley been removed. Crouse-Hinds was (and still is) a large Time Register was manufactured and sold by Crouse-Hinds manufacturer of electrical switching equipment, etc., and Co., Syracuse, New York, USA. probably someone at their main office could answer your I would like to know what it was used for, other than question. I do not know the present location of the head to tell time. Also, can you give me any information about office, or branch office in your area, but these easily can the manufacturer? be determined from Thomas 's Register in your library. Russell Allen, Independence, Missouri E. Howard & Co. made movements for special de vices. This does not have a Howard movement, but does Figure I. The beat indica exhibit a well-made, substantial mechanism. These pho tor says: The Hawley Time tos do not make clear the purpose or means of operating Register "No 319, "Manfg. the bell. and sold by Crouse-Hinds Researching patents under time devices revealed noth Co. Syracuse, NY U.S.A. ing under Crouse-Hinds Co. or Hawley. The person who patented it may have assigned it to Crouse-Hinds. With out a date or patent number, it is difficult to determine the patent. D.J. Blackwell
Figure 2. Mainspring with I am seeking information about the company that ratchet handle, barrel and produced the tall case clock in the enclosed photos slate base, beat indicator (s igure 3 and 4). On the rear frame of the clock face and daily calendar. is marked "Osborne's Manufactory-Birmingham, En gland." My only reference is from Watchmakers & Clockmakers of the World, Volume I, by G.H. Baille. It In response to your inquiry to Horological Times lists a partnership of Thomas Osborne and Jas. Wilson, A • regarding the Crouse-Hinds Co. recording instru ment, it appears a "made-to-order" drum or cylinder re cording device. A paper was wrapped about the cylinder, driven by the large mainspring on the left end of the cylin der, but controlled by the clock work. Probably one tum of the cylinder occurs in twenty-four hours, judging from where the connection with the clock train occurs. The pointer on the right end of the cylinder probably indicates the number of turns of the cylinder (as a cylinder music box indicates number of selection and changes as it makes each revolution, the pointer being advanced each revolu tion by means of a stepped cam mounted on a ratched wheel). There appear to be a couple of studs on the cylin der for locating the chart; however, the photos are insuffi ciently clear to really determine how the chart is held. The photos do not reveal what sort of stylus did the marking. Figure 4. Furthermore, there does not appear to be any device for Figure 3.
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Horological Times/February 1995 5 which dissolved in 1777. I would appreciate any help you The watch appears to be dated contemporaneously can give me in tracing the history of this clock, especially with the engraved date of 1855. There is wear on the case dating and clockmakers' names and history. to indicate that the watch was worn daily for at least sev Also, I have just completed work on an Aaron Willard eral years. There are repair numbers indicating repairs have Jr. tall case clock with swinging ship pendulum. The owner been made. The case is the Hunting type, with a swing would appreciate any articles on the history of the Willard out movement and bezel on the same hinge. The engraved clockmaker's family, as well as information on the Willard surface of the case is curved, making it difficult to photo Museum. I would also like to increase my knowledge of graph. The inscription indicates the watch was presented their workings. If possible, an article on the amount of to a J.B. Merwin in recognition of work performed on be production could be valuable as well. half of the temperance movement in Chicago. The inscrip Samuel Tipton, Maryville, Tennessee tion is reported to have been written by Abraham Lincoln. Paul J. Schmitt, Naples, Florida
I have searched through my books on such clocks I have examined the various photos of your watch. · and find that Osborne & Wilson were primarily dial A ·In my own records, I have found a James Henry makers, but there are to be found many clocks of their A Clare of London. There are other Clares of Birmingham, period with their names on the front of the dial and in the one with the"& Son" logo. archway. Your clock dates from 1785 to the first decade The watch appears to be English of the 1845-650 112 of the 19th century. period, very likely made in Prescott near Liverpool. The Mainly the books by Brian Loomes, The White Dial movement is typical of that type using what we term Clock, and the book, Grandfather Clocks, show clocks "Liverpool Windows," the large agate jewels through similar to yours, and mention Osborne in some examples. which the enmeshing of pinions and wheels can be ob As to the Willard clocks and museum, contact the Na served. Your correspondence reveals that it does have a tional Association of Watch & Clock Collectors at 514 "pallet" and thus a lever escapement, most likely of the Poplar St., Columbia PA 17512-2032. They have assumed type of that period: side pallets with pointed escape wheel the management of that museum, and can supply you with teeth. the needed information. They also have quite a library; The identification of the case and casemaker is still many of their books deal with the history and products of evading me. It is not English, as the hallmarks are quite the Willard family. The museum, which I have visited a different from mandatory markings of cases made in En few times, is a worthwhile experience. gland or those brought into England from elsewhere. I Henry B. Fried was able to discern the hallmarks of a graceful-necked horse in a horseshoe collar curved side upward. The other Due to space constrictions, this request has been hallmark has evaded me despite attempts to see it with · edited to contain pertinent information. high magnification. A search through my many books of Q hallmarks has failed to identify this horse type of head; I am seeking information for a customer about the though many countries did include a horse-type of mark, watch shown in these photos (see Figures 5 and 6). Here none are as distinctive as that in your watch case. This are a few of my observations. leads me to think that, as in many such instances, the case was made in the US. This is a possibility, since the duties on complete watches certainly allowed the burgeoning watch case industry to flourish long before our native watch factories came into being. There, too, my searches were blank. My books on American watch case compa nies had no such maker, and hallmarks are rare. Perhaps a definite identification of the other stamping at the right side of the case opposite the horse head might serve as a clue. Yet I would guess that the case is American. I wish I could do more for you, but that is as far as my resources took me. The engraving might indeed be a quote, Figure 6. if not a direct one (for the watch) made at a time when Mr. Lincoln was strongly campaigning for political acceptance. Figure 5. Henry B. Fried 0
6 Horological Times/February 1995 t
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By Fred S. Burckhardt
don't know about you, but I'm getting sick and tired of was in the place. I ordered a hamburger and chocolate I other people telling me how to live my life. It's true, shake. I even gave the girl a phony name to call when it we, as watchmakers and clockmakers, should keep in top was ready. After I picked up the order, I went and sat in physical condition in order to maintain the level of energy the darkest comer I could find. I felt a little like those needed to perform our daily tasks. What we don't need people on the Kellogg's Frosted Flakes commercials. are these ying-yangs telling us what we should eat, drink Exercise is something else. Have you noticed how and how we should exercise. exercise-crazy people are nowadays? I love these com First of all, how come when we were in grammar mercials for these exercise places. Notice how all the jok school, we were always told to eat plenty of dairy foods ers there are young and good-looking? All are those who and large helpings of meat? Now these same people are don't need to do anything to their bodies. A watchmaker telling us not to eat cheese, ice cream, drink milk-unless buddy of mine decided he was going to get into shape. there's nothing more to it but water and white coloring We're talking about a guy in his sixties who, all of a sud and whatever you do, don't even look at an egg. I won't den, realized the end wasn't too far away. So now this even mention meat because the health squad may read this! miracle of exercise was about to prolong things. Instead The funny part about all of this is that those who are of starting slowly and building as he went along, he thought on the lookout for rule breakers usually look like death that the sooner he jumped into it full force, the quicker he warmed over. The other day, I was making a cup of coffee would attain his goal. The first time he went jogging, he when this woman came into the shop. She saw what I was dropped over with a heart attack. doing and said, "I hope that is de-caf coffee. Caffeine is Now don't get me wrong. I'm a firm believer in exer bad for you, so you shouldn't drink anything that contains cise. I remember while in the service, we had to double caffeine." I was going to tell her that my grandmother lived time over to the mess hall to get a large tray of S.O.S. to be ninety-six, and she drank no fewer than ten cups of Come to think of it, even that would taste good right now. coffee a day, and that was B.C. (before caffeine). They If you want to get into the exercise thing, start slowly. found her four days after she died, and she still looked For example, we live in the middle of the block. When I better than this woman did now. started, I went as far as the next house. After a year, I now go One time I had just finished working on a real dog all the way to the end of the block. This may seem a long way and decided to slip over to the Burger King for some re to some of you, but you can do it, too, as long as you don't freshment. I looked all around to make sure nobody I knew overdo it. I still have to stop and rest several times. My favorite way to exercise is to visit a gambling Support casino. One of the best ways to limber up is to sit in front of a slot machine and pull the handle-no push The AWi-ELM TRUST ing a button like on some of the newer machines. After four or five hours, it's time for a break, so head over to SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM the restaurant and get yourself a nice bologna and choco BY SENDING YOUR OLD late syrup sandwich. WATCH BATTERIES TO THE It's getting close to lunch time. I think I'll go to the Mexican-Italian restaurant that just opened. My good friend AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS Jose Michelangelo owns the place. He makes the best spa INSTITUTE ghetti enchiladas I've ever eaten. On second thought, 3700 Harrison Avenue maybe I'll stay here in the shop and make myself a nice Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 lard sandwich. I have to watch my cholesterol. D
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Horological Times/February 1995 9 Ask Huck
Clockmaldng Bits About... Scissors, Tin Snips and Suspension Springs Mainspring Winders
By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FBHI
Question: How do you cut very thin sheet brass and steel? Answer: It's possible to do a limited amount of clock re How do you drill the same material-a suspension spring, pair without a winder. For serious clockmaking, however, for instance? a good spring winder is a necessity. Springs of the open type, an old American clock for Answer: These materials may be worked with simple example, need a spring clamp to constrain the spring in a tools. Tin snips will cut spring steel stock as thick as the near full-wind state. These clamps are frequently found mainspring of an American eight-day clock. A good pair on new springs, or may be purchased at small cost. A spring of seamstress scissors will cut suspension spring stock. winder that uses the great wheel and key from the clock These materials are usually cut in straight lines or doesn't cost much and works nicely. nearly straight cuts. The tools cannot make intricate cuts The big task is movements that have a barreled spring. of a short radius. Make no mistake, a spring in a barrel is much like a time Scissors and snips are easily sharpened with a fine stone bomb just waiting to explode! This is the "bomb" that needs about 150-200 grit-on a bench grinder. It is advisable to the expensive spring winder. dress the stone just prior to this job. This is a quick and easy In most cases, it's possible to remove and insert a bar task, and will restore the tool to like-new operation. reled spring by hand, but it is a dangerous practice to the I cut suspension spring holes with a watchmaker's workman and may damage the pieces. This is not a task staking set. Select a die hole of suitable size and a punch that I would fully endorse. that will just enter the dieplate. Holes are cut in main Now the question of the need to remove the spring for springs with a tinner's punch. This is a large plier-looking cleaning. In general terms, if it needs cleaning, it should device with interchangeable punch sizes. be removed from the barrel. Most of these springs have In making suspension springs, it is easier to punch the been neglected for many years, so removal and cleaning holes in the bulk stock and then trim to size. The reason is is necessary. that it's easier to shear near a hole than to punch a hole Yes, a spring winder is needed for serious clock very close to the material edge. work. But be advised, the new spring winder may not Scissors and snips are very useful tools for our craft. be suitable for the first job you try it on! It's like fish ing in the ocean-no one knows what is there until you Question: Spring winders are expensive tools. Is there an pull the fish in. D alternative to this expense? What type do you recommend?
- --HERMLE MOVEMENTS- If you have any questions, please write: from "Ask Huck." c/o Horol.ogical Times, !Jufferfunrfq @:lurks, ~nt. P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 1715 Pearlvlew • Muscatine, IA 52761 Phone & FAX: (800) 258-5418 Technical Info: (319) 263-6759 Largest selection in US - over 60 different models. 1994 INDEX FOR HT Guaranteed lowest prices. Same day shipping, two year warranty. A complete index for 1994 issues of Horol.ogical Times Most models bronze bushed, milled ratchets. appeared in the January 1995 issue pgs. 49-51. Factory fresh stock. I can custom match 21 different pendulum lengths. To read the index: The 1st number refers to the issue; the Technical help from a practicing clockmaker - Life Member second number refers to the page. of AWi. SASE free price list and Info.
10 Horological Times/February 1995 Pickle Barrel Course in Jewelry Repair, Part 4 Cleaning, Shielding, Fluxing and Annealing
By Marshall F. Richmond, CMW
ll types of soldering are used extensively when do dling-should be cleaned away thoroughly before you at A ing jewelry crafting and repair. A good understanding tempt to do any soldering. of work preparation before you apply any heat will help to Ladies engagement rings always require careful clean make good solder joints, which will result in a quality re ing because soap, detergent, body oils and other foreign mat pair or a fine, durable piece of jewelry. ter will accumulate around the stone and in the crevices of the ring. You do not always know what has been accumu Cleaning lated in these areas, and often jewelry cleaner alone will not It is necessary to clean all work materials whether you clean it out. I use a small pick to pick out as much "gunk" as are using them to manufacture a new piece of jewelry or to I can before using the jewelry cleaner. The surest way I have make a repair. Solder usually will not flow on a dirty sur found to clean the ring in one operation is to boil the ring first face, and the use of flux cannot be counted on to serve as a in pickling solution in a small copper pickle pan. Using a cleaner as well as a flux. I will discuss this more under bench torch, bring the solution to a boil, and let it boil a short fluxing. Cleaning really is more important when making a time (less than a minute). This usually is adequate to loosen repair than it is in making new jewelry, when all of the the build-up so that when the ring is cleaned with strong jew material being used is new. Whenever preparing work for elry cleaning solution in an ultrasonic tank, or by brushing, soldering, however, foreign material-such as oil from ban- the ring will be clean enough for soldering. This method of
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DEALERS OPENING ORDER PROMO: Only $100 +UPS (32/bs) 12 - 4 oz. flip cap bottles ...... resale 2.69 12 - 8 oz. flip cap bottles ...... resale 3. 99 12 - 8 oz. pump spray bottles ...... resale 4.69 12 - 16 oz. flip cap bottles ...... resale 5.99 + FREE Point of Sale Display ( ORDERS: I Total Resale ...... 208.92 11-800-887-3445 J ~·U Horological Times/February 1995 11 cleaning also removes any oxides that may have been present regardless of the material being soldered or the solder be on the piece of jewelry. ing used. According to the dictionary the word "flux" has If you are repairing settings without removing the dia several meanings. One definition that applies here states: monds, be sure that all contamination has been cleaned "A substance used to promote fusion of metal or minerals. away. If you do not adequately clean the item, the heat re To cause to flow; to make fluid; to fuse by melting; to flow." quired to flow solder may cause the residue to burn on the Fluxes such as rosin or acid solutions are used to solder, diamond and the setting. This can often be difficult or al braze or weld metals together; fluxes clean and free metals most impossible to remove. The application of this kind of from oxide to promote their union. To soft solder most metals, heat should never be attempted with stones that cannot with a flux solution of zinc chloride can be made by dissolving zinc stand heat, namely, pearls, emeralds and opals. Ultrasonics in hydrochloric acid, or it can be purchased in most hardware should never be used to clean these gemstones; they should stores as soft solder flux. A brand I have found to be good is be brushed with a soap, ammonia and detergent solution. "Ruby Liquid." Acid fluxes should not be used to solder an Not every job you do will require this rigorous clean electrical connection; a rosin paste is available for electrical ing process. If careful inspection of the piece reveals very connections. Soft solder that contains a core of either acid or little accumulation of residue, using ultrasonic cleaning on rosin is available; this makes it very handy to use. the piece will usually be adequate. This requires common Most fluxes used for hard soldering, brazing or weld sense judgment that can only be developed through experi ing use a borax base. For hard soldering nonferrous met ence and practice. When sizing rings or making other sol als-those that do not contain iron-a flux consisting of der repairs where the heat can be shielded from the residue powdered borax mixed with water to form a thin paste can around the stones, cleaning is not required except in that be used. The mixture is brushed on with a flux brush, some area where the solder joint is to be made. Regardless of times called a borax brush. There are several commercially how soiled the repair piece was when it was received for prepared fluxes available both in liquid and paste form; repair, it should be returned to the customer only after it some I am familiar with are: "Battons," "Fluron," has been cleaned, polished and made to look as nearly new "Schwerters" and "Aircosil." All of these can be used for as possible. Pre-cleaning the piece before work is begun hard soldering with gold, silver or nickel solders. Aircosil makes the final cleaning and polishing much easier. is the only flux that I have found that will cause hard solder to flow on stainless steel, or allow nonferrous metals to be Shielding hard soldered to steel or stainless steel. Shielding, when applying heat, can be used for more There are many considerations when using a flux. Even though than one purpose. It can be used to protect the finish from it is said to be a cleaner, it should only be used as an oxide preven oxidizing, or it may be to protect stones, enamels or plastic tative on a pre-cleaned surface. If used on a dirty surface, it can ornamentation on the jewelry. To protect stones, enamels seal the dirt; thus when solder is applied and flowed with heat, it and other ornamentation from heat, I usually wrap wet pa may show pits even when filed and polished. This may occur even per tissue or paper toweling around the area to be protected. when the joint looks smooth and good on the surface. These pits When doing this, enough heat must be applied to flow the are actually micro-bubbles that become sealed in the molten sol solder before the heat dries the wet packing; otherwise, the der. This same situation can be created by applying too much heat paper will begin to scorch. If the packing does begin to and causing the solder to boil. scorch, it will be necessary to re-soak it and shield the work The borax in fluxes, when subjected to heat in the sol again before heat is applied. This time, use more heat so dering process, forms a hard crystal coating where it was that the solder will flow more quickly. Some use wet sand applied. When cooled, even though it has been effective in or a commercial putty-like shielding material, which works preventing oxidation, this coating is left to be removed. The quite well except that it is sometimes difficult to remove coating can be removed by soaking in pickling solution, or Boric acid and alcohol can be mixed into a solution even in water. It will be immediately removed if placed in that will do a good job of shielding The entire piece of a hot pickle solution, or if the solution is brought to a boil jewelry can be immersed into the solution. The solution in a pickle pan. If this hard crystalline film is left on the can be ignited and burned away, leaving a coating of boric article, it will be difficult to polish. Sometimes the coating acid on the jewelry. This coating will prevent oxidation will remain even when being polished with Tripoli and when the material is heated enough to make the solder flow. rouge, even while metal around it is being removed. This It will even prevent discoloring of plated finishes, except situation will show after the piece is cleaned with cleaning when the heat required to make the solder flow is too in solution and rinsed in water. tense The question is often asked, "Which do you use, the I find it works well to preheat the place to be fluxed. boric acid or the borax?" Either will do the same job; how Only heat it to the point that when the liquid or paste flux is ever, it seems to me the boric acid dissolves more com touched to it, it stays in the spot you want it and does not pletely. This boric acid or borax and alcohol burn-off is not spread or stray where unwanted. Heat it again until it turns a shield against heat; rather, it is a shield against the oxida a frosty white; this indicates it is ready for the solder to be tion that will occur around where heat is applied. applied. If the solder is in small chips, it can be applied with a flux brush. With the brush, the solder will easily Fluxing transfer and stay in place until the heat is applied to melt Fluxing is a necessary step to a successful soldering and flow it. 12 Horological Times/February 1995 Non flux brass, nickel or nickel silver, the work can become hard Non flux, or as it is sometimes referred to as "anti flux," ened while you are hammering, filing, sawing and bend can be purchased as an anti flux. Yellow ochre powder can ing. After so long, the metal will become porous and be purchased in half-pound jars for very little cost. This break when it is bent. When work seems to be getting can be mixed with water to form a thin paste or thick liq hard, it should be annealed. Plain wedding bands, after uid. It can be applied with a flux brush; however, do not being worn for a long time and needing to be sized ei use the same brush you use for applying flux. Anti flux can ther smaller or larger, should be annealed before putting be applied to other solder joints so they won't flow; it will them on a ring stretcher or shrinker. Any metal on a re also hold the solder joint you are making to the area where pair job that seems to be hard to bend can be annealed to you want it to be. make it soft and pliable. When heating to a cherry red, one caution must be taken if stones are involved: the Annealing heat required to make the metal cherry red may damage Annealing is very important in doing jewelry work, be the stones. cause most nonferrous metals get hard from handling, bend ing, hammering, or even from natural vibrations to which Experimentation and Practice these metals may be exposed. A good example of this is the One way to learn jewelry crafting and repair is to ex soft copper tubing used for piping combustible gases to ap periment with determination. To begin, much of this can be pliances. It is usually connected with a flare joint that can done with very little expense. Tools can be obtained as they be made easily on soft copper but, if you try to make this are needed, and inexpensive materials such as copper, brass, flare on the end of tubing that has been in use several years, nickel or nickel silver can be used because they work simi it will be so hard and brittle it will split or break. To make larly to gold and silver. Silver solder is relatively inexpen the copper soft and pliable again, it can be annealed by sive, and can be used in place of gold solder. heating the end back a few inches to a cherry red and then The next article will be about filing, sawing, shaping and allowing it to cool. When cool, it will be soft again, and holding. The tools needed are a jeweler's saw and 3/0 or 4/0 can be fashioned into a flange. saw blades, files, bench pin, ring clamp and a small bench In jewelry work, this situation is often called "work vise. Pliers also will be useful in holding and bending opera hardening." When working on a piece of jewelry using tions. Practice projects will be suggested, along with informa nonferrous metals such as karat gold, silver, copper, tion and instructions on how to do the projects. 0 Yes, I would like to subscribe to Clocks magazine for 1 year (12 issues) . Please commence my subscription from the ...... issue. Phone our subscription hotline on: (310) 375 6258 quoting your Visa/Access details, or complete this coupon: At $46 for 12 issues (USA only). I enclose a cheque/M.O. for $ ...... •.•. . ~de payable to Wise Owl Worldwide Publications, or debit my AccessNisa: . DD DDDDDDDDDDDDDD Signature ...... E.xpiry ...... Name ...... , ...... Address ...... ·········---······· ······················· ...... Post Code ...... Home Telepho~e Number...... •.. •.. •...... •.•...... Please post this coupon to: Wise Owl Worldwlde Publications, 4314 West 23Bth Street, Torrance. CA 90505 ~ 4509 U.S.A. Horological Times/February 1995 13 Management Part 10 Sales Process By Fred S. Burckhardt rom the time the customer first enters the store, the selling offer to a customer with the purchase of a new crystal, crown, Fprocess begins. Even the way they are greeted affects watch band or dial refinish? whether the sales presentation will be successful. For example, if they don't receive a pleasant greeting, or receive no greeting How to Close a Sale at all, this can give them a negative attitude about the business Your sales presentation is over. You've answered all the which will be difficult to overcome. If everyone happens to be customer's questions, explained all the features and spoken busy when a customer enters, be sure someone at least says at length of all the benefits. You've played the entire AIDA. "Hello, someone will be with you in just a moment." This shows Now what? the customer she has been recognized, and shows your willing Now is the time to give the customer a chance to admire ness to be of some service as soon as possible the piece, examine it, try it on. It is also the time for you to keep The selling process itself should follow certain steps. Re quiet. For some reason, many salespeople seem to think they member the acronym AIDA. should keep rattling on. A break serves two purposes. 1) It gives ATTENTION. This is the first thing you must do: get the the customer a chance to breathe and digest the points you customer's attention. This can be done by showing them a par brought out in your presentation. 2) It gives you a chance to ticular article, or maybe their attention has already been gotten think back about any questions the customer asked, or any clues by an article in the showcase or window. Once their attention he may have given you so you can prepare to review these if has been focused on an article, it's time to arouse their interest. necessary. By the time you have reached this point, you should INTEREST. Once they show an interest in the article, we know whether or not your prospect is ready to purchase. must try to change that as quickly as possible into, In some cases, the close will consist of the customer say DESIRE-a desire to own whatever it is we have to sell. ing, "I will take it." Or, he may ask about some kind of payment We must convince the customer that the advantages of owning plan or what kind of guarantee is offered on the article. What if beauty, quality, fashion, etc.-are of more value to him than his she doesn't like the piece? Can it be exchanged? We all like this money. Once we create this desire, we must proceed with, kind of close, because it shows we made an effective presenta ACTION. This is the hard part, getting the customer to swap tion. But, what if the customer just sits there and doesn't say his money for our merchandise or service. You must convince anything? After a minute or so, give a short recap of the selling him of the idea that it will benefit him more than his cash. This points, keeping in mind the questions that were asked before. is where most sales come to a screeching halt. Salespeople will No matter how insignificant the questions may have seemed to create the A-1-D, but will falter when it comes to the final A, the you, they were important to the customer or he wouldn't have action, or what is referred to as the CLOSE! asked them. If the customer has no more questions or objections, use Features and Benefits the "implied consent" close approach. Start writing a sales ticket, During the selling process, you must constantly talk about asking if it will be cash, charge or lay-away. The customer will the features and the benefits of owning the article or having the let you know in a hurry if he is not ready to make the purchase. work done. Each time you mention a feature, follow up with This is what you want him to do, because he will then give you how that feature can benefit the customer. For example: a reason or an excuse for not buying. Most times, these will not be real objections. Usually it will be the same story you heard FEATURE: This watch is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of before, such as, "Let me think it over," "I'll have to ask my 333 feet. husband/wife," "I want to look around some more," or "Let me BENEFIT: You can wear it swimming, bathing, scuba diving. sleep on it." These are cover-up statements. You must try to find the real reason why the customer is not buying, or find the FEATURE: This ring contains a very fine quality diamond. hidden objections: BENEFIT: You can wear it with pride and show it to your friends. COST. Are you sure the customer can afford the item? We You're sure to receive many compliments. tend to overlook this aspect with some customers, and they may Remember, a customer isn't interested in the features of an item be too embarrassed to admit it. or service. They're interested in how those features can benefit LACK OF INFORMATION. Can you think of any benefit them. If you are selling a repair job, what benefits can you or feature you forgot to bring out during the presentation? 14 Horological Times/February 1995 OBJECTIONS. If the customer hasn't offered any, come right out and ask if there is some reason for his hesitancy in making the purchase. NEW DESIGN! SATISFACTION. Have you made it clear that you are in terested in the customer's enjoyment and pleasure in owning the article, and that you will see to it that he is completely satis fied? ENEMY. This may sound ridiculous, but many sales are lost because the customer may see the salesperson as an enemy who is trying to take away his hard-earned dollars. There could also be a personality conflict between the customer and sales clerk. Iffor any reason you don't feel comfortable, or you don't "hit it off' with a customer, tum the sale over to someone else. And now for the final checklist. COMPLIMENTS. "This piece of jewelry will bring you many compliments from your friends," or "Your husband/wife will compliment you on your good taste when you present this to him/her." THE STEAM DRAGON LOVE. More jewelry is purchased for this reason than any /:IJways ready to fire up! New atmospheric steam cleaning other. "He/she will love this gift and will love you more for technology. The Steam Dragon is not a boiler, it does not store steam under pressure, but produces 60-90 pounds of buying it for him/her." steam on demand and is entirely safe to the atmosphere. OBLIGATION. Your firm stands behind any guarantee that Requires 115 volts/ 15amps/ 1200 watts. Compact design may be involved. If the watch has to be sent to the service cen measures only 12" x 15" x 11" high and weighs only 30 ter, you will take care of it. The customer's only obligation is to pounds. No filling - distilled water pumped from an outside pay for the article, while yours continues after the sale (for a container on demand. Additional features: Automatic burst control, solid state electronics, all 18 gauge stainless steel reasonable length of time-don't overdue it!). cabinet, easily repaired to last a lifetime, stores heat not live SATISFACTION. Large department stores have built their steam, and one year warranty on complete unit. empires on these two words- satisfaction guaranteed. You can 063095 ...... $749.95 do the same, but spell out exactly what you mean: refund, ex change, whatever. Don't make promises you won't or can't keep ------just to make a sale. EXAMPLE. Sometimes a third-party influence can be ef fective. For example, "I've had customers tell me this is the best watch they've ever owned." "Watches like this have been passed down in families for generations." If none of the foregoing works, simply tell the customer to buy the article. Some people need a little shove to help them make up their mind. Do it in such a way that they will feel they have made the decision. Some like to feel they bought some WEBSTER~~--- DEPTHING TOOL thing rather than feeling they were sold something. Compact style depthing tool with multiple uses from If you still can't close the sale, you must decide whether or alarm clocks to large clock movements. It can readily not to spend more time trying. If you decide to stop, be sure to handle gears and pinion, or escapement set-up thank the customer for coming in, and ask her to come back problems. The maximum size wheel it can handle is soon. Don't upset yourself or the customer because you weren't 4 1/2" diameter. Included with the tool are: main tool frame with 4 runners (2 3/4" between runners - 3 7/8" between successful this time around. You won't close every transaction. runner supports), 2 cone pieces for jobs that require large Try harder next time. The idea is to increase your ratio of closes center - such as mainspring barrels, 2 trumpet pieces, per number of contacts. and an overhung runner adapter - for crutch assemblies. The difference between an average salesperson and a star 063043 ••••.•.•••••••••••••••••••••.••••••••••••••••••••••••••• $152.55 salesperson is the number of sales each one clocks a day. Strive to be a star; after all, it's to be able to order prime rib instead of hamburger! 0 S. ,~rlJ!~Inc. Worftf'IJlitU 1Jistrl6utors to !Jlorofogists '~;\ WATCHMAKER'S/JEWELERS LA THE I ,t?z';;/' PRAZI Designed for Super Prec:t.ion Wort!. 3223 Yanceyville St., P.O. Box 21208 Greensboro, N.C., 27420,USA .a~M°"'TALoonoa . / ~Q.... 800-872-6500 Phone: (910) 621-1936 Fax Number: 1-800-537-4513 l:T• •'I• I Horological Times/February 1995 15 As a Clockmaker Turns JI Developing Techniques for Use with the Steady Rest By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FBHI Objective ther job without some unusual holding method. I've de The most recent article introduced the lathe steady rest veloped a method. and some of its most basic uses. This article will continue I use the soft sub-collet and soft bearing technique. If the same subject and center on application techniques. this method is in common use, it has never come to my I frequently see examples of repivoting of clock wheels attention. It is an excellent, efficient technique. Two at that are far from excellent, even less-than-good workman tendant advantages are that the technique places very little ship. For that reason, this article will continue with tech demand on your collet resources, or the quality of your niques to aid those who are troubled with inserted pivots. lathe; indeed, nice for everyone. An overview of available literature directed to our craft Begin with a study of Figure 2. This is a hardwood shows abstract instruction on repivoting. However, most dowel in a #32 collet. The dowel is 1/8" in diameter. Other writers avoid the pitfalls of the job. It is the purpose of size dowels are equally good. Locate center, drill a quar this article to lead the reader through the trouble areas with ter-inch deep and cut off as in Figure 3. The drill bit should techniques that are efficient and produce excellent work be smaller than the arbor by one- to two-thousandths of manship. an inch. This is your soft bearing. The First Problem A study of Figure 1 will send grief into any clockmaker's heart! Why? A less-than-excellent job will spoil the escapement involved. A closer look shows that the pinion cutter run-out has scored the arbor tip, and the broken pivot left a ragged end on the arbor. There is no support place for the steady rest, and a half-length of small arbor is as close as we can get a lathe collet. Figure 2. Making a soft sub-collet to support the escape wheel arbor. Figure I. A steady rest is needed to repair the broken pivot on this escape wheel. Imagine for a moment that the opposite pivot is bro ken. How can you hold the pinion end in the lathe suitably Figure 3. Making a soft bearing to support the escape to repivot the other end? There is no good way out of ei- wheel arbor. 16 Horological Times/February 1995 Locate the dowel center again, and drill a quarter-inch your lathe chuck on true center, yet with some compli deep. This time use a bit size equal to the arbor tip indi ance for alignment error. The soft bearing will be tolerant cated in Figure 1. to convergence error of the steady rest support rods, and Examine the drilling method in Figure 2. Rest the bit your arbor will run perfectly true. on your fingertip so that you can feel the activity. This Add another minute or so, and you will have worked will be very important when you drill the arbor. your way up through Figure 5. Place a drop of oil on the In less than five minutes, you should progress to the soft bearing and admire how true this setup really is! work stage in Figure 4-the soft bearing should be skin tight on the arbor. Where Do You Go From Here? Here are the conditions: You have the arbor held in Continue one more step with this imaginary job, and Figure 4. A wheel arbor supported in a soft sub-collet, Figure 5. The setup as it will be used to replace a broken and a soft bearing for the steady rest. pivot. TIME FOR ACCURACY WITSCHII " 's waterproof tester '-"' - the ALC 2000 Tested in Europe and found to be the most accurate! • user-friendly fully automatic measurement programs • flexible- tests vacuum and pressure vacuum (up to -0.8 bar) and pressure (up to 10 bar), separately or combined • programmable 10 customer specific test programs • multi-lingual 9 language choices: Eng., Fr., Ger., It., Sp., and the 4 Scandinavian languages • practical automatic locking and release of the pressure chamber • fast automatic or manual from 10 to 300 sec. • future-orientated assured by a 16-bit processor • able to print results WITSCHI printer (Citizen) or printer with serial interface I~ WITSCHI ELECTRONICS USA Ltd. WITSCHI 34 E. Henry St., P.O. Box 2, Palmyra, NJ 08065-0002 ~ WISS BASED FIRM Tel.: 1-800-882-7977 Fax: 1-609-829-2266 Horological Times/February 1995 17 then I'll return to the real broken pivot. Note the arbor Here you can make a couple of choices. The best overhang beyond the soft bearing in Figures 4 and 5. This choice will vary from job to job. Figure 8 shows a choice was done to aid the photographic view. The overhang that will require a few extra minutes, but yields an excel should be held to a minimum for the most accurate re lent result. This is a piece of quarter-inch brass rod stock sults. bored to a close fit on the pinion. Workmen who have a Cutting stress from a graver while cleaning up the stock of large clock bushings may modify one of them in rough arbor end could present a problem. I find this much less time than drilling a solid piece. Save these pieces; easier to manage by grinding the arbor tip flat, and also they can be enlarged for later use. You will be pleasantly touching the shoulder cone lightly. The tool is a cordless surprised how nice a pinion will run in this bearing. hand-held motor tool. The smallest size tool is most suit If you find the arbor tip with cutter run-out to be quite able. Cut the grinding disc from a piece of abrasive paper burr-free, then use a smaller pivot bushing and support in the 400 grit range. Run the grinder at top speed and the that area. Again grind away the ragged end of the broken pivot, and touch down on the shoulder cone. Figure 6. A small motor tool grinds away the remains of a broken pivot. Figure 8. Solve the problem by boring a large bushing wheel arbor at a few hundred RPM. After a few trials, the that will just slip over the pinion. whole job through the step in Figure 6 will require about five minutes. Now let's return to the real problem. Figure 7 shows Summary the wheel arbor in a soft sub-collet, and the indicator shows I have shown the most basic steps known to the ma no place to support the arbor. There's a broken pivot, a chine tool industry; namely, make each step simple and pinion, and the arbor tip has pinion cutter tracks. Yet you such that no error accumulates from the previous step. must support this area for your work! Choose your work procedures so that the job is easy on your bad days, and just pure fun on the good ones. Also, select job methods that are not dependent on perfect tools and a perfect operator. That's the secret to efficient workmanship! Forward The third and final article will deal with drilling and fit ting the new pivot. This will feature use of a pre-finished pivot material, which is a great time saver. 0 Figure 7. There is no place to support this piece with a steady rest. 18 Horological Times/February 1995 Henry Fried's 22nd Horological Tour For AWi, NAWCC, andAHS Members To Scandinavia and The Netherlands, May 29 - June 14, 1995 In 1985, members of theAWI and friends of horology toured Scandinavia, leaving with happy memories of meeting their trade WATCH STRAP NOTCHING and vocational counterparts, the surprising collections of watches PLIERS and clocks, excellent horological schools and unforgettable scen ery during those long hours of daylight Great for notching Gucci-style watch bands. I thought it was time to return to Scandinavia This year our Helps reduce inventory by converting ordi group will enjoy a relaxed tour starting with Finland with one of nary leather bands into Gucci-style bands. the world's finest horological colleges-a four-year, live-in, tax Made of high quality steel. 3mmwidth. supported institution-its museum, and other Finish sights and antique marts. #461.330 By overnight sea-going vessel, we will travel from Finland to Stockholm; we will be able to view the northern lights and $8.95 brilliant skies. The Swedish Horological Society convention will coincide with our stay in Stockholm, and we will be honored guests. HOLE PUNCHING PLIER From Sweden, a picturesque land-based tour into neighbor ing Norway is scheduled. The horological society, led by Mrs. Punch holes in leather or plastic watch Inger Johanne-Mola will meet with us in Oslo, the capital. We bands. Great for sizing bands. will visit the Museum of Applied Arts, which contains a good collection of timepieces. #461.350 A calm sea voyage to Holland tops off this tour. We will headquarter in Amsterdam, which will allow us to visit various attractions including a tour of the Dutch Company's Clock and $8.95 Watch Collection in Schoohaven. From Holland we return back to the US in plenty of time for those who plan to attend the national conventions to take place at the end of June. Let's hope that we will see old friends again and We Stock make life-long new ones. For details and a tour brochure, contact Advantage Tours International, Inc., 1230 East Lakeside Drive, Highland Lakes, NJ 07422, (800) 262-4284. 0 Horologically your Genuine ~B~:i:J ijV @D t ROLEX rQT, S / If you have any ideas to share with the Horo logical Tzmes staff, send your letters to: AWi Central 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 \ Horological Times/February 1995 19 Scholastically Speaking By Wit Jarochowski have a chance to make a difference. ample, now requires about 2,000 clock hours for an associate I Along with educators from eleven watchmaking schools degree, but about 500 of those hours are general education and colleges throughout the world, I have the rare opportunity courses in math, communications and business principles. If to perpetuate and strengthen the fine art and craftsmanship of we focus solely on the technical courses, we now offer about watchmaking. It's the type of legacy I want to leave to this pro 1,500 clock hours of instruction that parallel portions of the fession. WOSTEP curriculum. To fully implement the WOSTEP pro Like you, I have read about the worldwide lack of skilled gram, OSU-Okmulgee will need to add another 1,200 clock watchmakers to meet industry's projected demand. The aging hours to its technical curriculum. watchmaking work force, coupled with a lack of young people In addition, OSU-Okmulgee will need more faculty, new entering this profession, contribute to the problem. labs and classrooms, thousands of dollars more in teaching aids, I am enthusiastic about a worldwide partnership venture and an extensive marketing strategy to attract new students. directed by the Watchmakers of Switzerland Technical Educa Obviously, meeting this criteria will be a costly proposition, tion Program; WOSTEP's Antoine Simion is championing an and realistically will not be fully implemented for several years. international effort to upgrade and standardize the education My fellow educators from the other schools say they face much and skill training of watchmakers. His objective is to maintain the same dilemma. and ensure a quality work force to service and repair quality If the cost is extreme and the likelihood of full implemen watch pieces for the future. tation is years away, why am I still enthusiastic about proceed WOSTEP's vision will become reality only if individual ing? Because the WOSTEP program is appropriate, offering watchmakers worldwide, educators in watchmaking schools and our industry the only practical solution to attracting more men colleges, as well as manufacturers and distributors of watches and women into the watchmaking profession. join the cause. While some may see the road ahead full of obstacles, I in Last June, I traveled to Switzerland, joining the other edu stead perceive opportunities. The task will be more gratifying cators from schools selected to participate in this pioneering if educators, manufacturers, distributors and watchmakers from effort. Our primary mission was to review, discuss and make around the world agree to support this project. recommendations for the adoption of a standardized watchmak Establishing a unified, international watchmaker's curricu ing curriculum authored by WOSTEP faculty and several lead lum is crucial because it provides a measure of accountability ing Swiss watchmakers. I cannot imagine a more difficult task to future employers. At OSU-Okmulgee, each of our graduates writing a watchmaking curriculum that spans international also earns a graduate performance guarantee in addition to a boundaries, addresses a multitude of educational competencies, college diploma. The guarantee warrants to employers that the and yet is able to remain focused upon quality. Simion man graduate has learned a specified list of competencies specific to aged the task admirably! the watchmaking field. The WOSTEP curriculum also will func The discussion was intense. Suggestions and recommen tion in much the same fashion. dations were considered by all parties before the final docu As educators, we face several tasks: convincing our educational ment was adopted. and legislative leaders of the potential economic benefits to be WOSTEP also planned visits for us to area watchmaking gained by participating in this worldwide venture; securing fund schools and manufacturing facilities as part of our five-week ing to support new faculty, labs and equipment; and implement visit. Each school and manufacturer we toured went out of their ing the WOSTEP curriculum where and when appropriate. way to be gracious to us. The WOSTEP experience was exhila WOSTEP has laid the foundation to provide us instruc rating! tional models and some technical assistance. They have agreed WOSTEP's curriculum details 2,700 clock hours of instruc to supply colleges and schools utilizing their curriculum with tion, ranging from skill development with basic tools to ad technical assistance to evaluate quality of craftsmanship and vanced craftsmanship techniques involving complicated move service of our graduating students. ments. Manufacturers already have demonstrated a sincere inter Educators agreed the WOSTEP curriculum is essentially a est in this program. They hosted us on our educational journey guideline we will try to assimilate into our own schools. Our to Switzerland. Many have aided development of the WO STEP program at Oklahoma State University in Okmulgee, for ex- curriculum with technical assistance. They also have agreed 20 Horological Times/February 1995 to sell us contemporary watch movements for educational zerland Training and Education Program. WOSTEP is devel purposes at one-fourth of retail. oping a partnership with the watch repair program at OSU One expected outcome of this WOSTEP effort is, Okmulgee. hopefully, an enhanced image of watchmaking as a pro Swiss watch industry executives estimate a critical need for 25,000 skilled watchmakers within the next 10 years. fession. That image upgrade will benefit us all! WOSTEP has launched a program to help meet this worldwide WOSTEP has challenged us with a proposal for a win need. Each year, 12 people are hand selected to participate in win-win scenario for the entire watch industry. Now, it's the extensive training course. time for us to team together to make it so! 0 Horton is a full-time student with previous education in civil engineering and business administration. He owned and Wit Jarochowski is an instructor; Watch and Instrument Re operated watch trade shops in Oregon and Hawaii before de pair Technology, Oklahoma State University in Okmulgee. ciding to attend OSU-Okmulgee. According to Wit Jarochowski, OSU-Okmulgee's watch and microinstrument repair instructor, receiving the distinction of Student Earns CMW certified master watchmaker is usually a goal set by watch stu dents only after graduation and several years of field experi ence. "Jon's certification was hard-earned and well-deserved. We are thrilled that he has achieved this status while still a student at OSU-Okmulgee," said Jarochowski. Horton chose OSU-Okmulgee over 23 other U.S. watch programs he researched because of Jarochowski. "When I began to investigate watch repair programs," said Horton, "it was Mr. Jarochowski's zealous dedication to watch making and definitive experience in the field that convinced me that OSU-Okmulgee's program was the best in the nation." Jarochowski quickly recognized Horton's advanced stand ing in watchmaking and arranged for the certification prepara tion as a special project elective course last semester. He also served as official proctor for the certification testing. Jon Horton, who recently earned the distinction of Certified Master Watchmaker; repairs a pocket watch in the watch and microinstrument repair laboratory at OSU-Okmulgee where he TECHNICAL ARTICLES is a student. From time to time we accumulate articles which may appeal to Jon Horton has been certified as a Master Watchmaker even a limited number of readers. The articles are offered to mem though he is still a watchmaking student at Oklahoma State Uni bers upon request. Make request to SPECIAL ARTICLES, versity in Okmulgee. AWi Central. "That feat is analogous to an accounting student passing the CPA exam or a law student passing the bar before graduat To Find The Relationship Between The Mass And Timekeeping ing from college," according to Jerry Wilson, head of the OfThe Atmos Clock by Mark Headrick. 11 pgs. including draw college's small business occupations department. ing, formulas and graph. No Chg. "To earn Master Watchmaker Certification while still a stu dent is highly unusual," according to Milton Stevens, executive Alternate Methods To Determine The Correct Pendulum Length director of the American Watchmakers Institute, Cincinnati. "It For A Clock by Mark Headrick. Examples of methods com is both an indicator of the quality instructional program at OSU plete with formulas. No Chg. Okmulgee and of Horton's determination and his persistence of excellence." Constructing A Quartz Watch Power by Louie A. Murphree, What began at age 11 as a project to earn a Boy Scout merit PE. 12 pages of instructions to construct a quartz watch power badge, Horton's interest in watches expanded first into a hobby, module. No Chg. then a career. Today, at 37, Horton is a Certified Master Watch maker. Requirements for the master watchmaker certification Double Fusee Cuckoo Clock by David Carlson. Originally include an intensive 668-question written exam covering watch published in September 1994 Horological Times, the printing making theory, technical discipline and mathematical calcula did not do justice to the fine color photos. 6 pages of text, 1 tions, a skill examination requiring satisfactory repair of two schematic and 10 full color photos, spiral bound. This is a rare, purposely maladjusted watches, and a requirement to fabricate beautifully carved, wall hanging cuckoo clock. The clock had a watch stem and balance staff to exact tolerances. a myriad of problems. The information on the clock and the Horton is one of 12 people, selected on a world-wide, an repair strategies should be of interest to those who enjoy cuckoo nual basis, to participate in an 11-month advanced watchmak clocks. $5 to cover cost of color photo duplication. ing course in Switzerland hosted by the Watchmakers of Swit- Horological Times/February 1995 21 Association News COLORADO NORTH CAROLINA The Escapement, the fine newsletter published by Wes Emillo Aponte Jr, publicity director for the North Caro Van Every for the Colorado Clock & Watchmakers Guild, lina Watchmakers Association, sent the following notice, reports that a blast of winter weather caused the Novem dated December 13, 1994: ber meeting to be cancelled at the last minute. The pro North Carolina Watchmakers Association gram, a presentation by Bill Tapp about Waltham Pocket ANNUAL CONVENTION, June 2-4, 1995 Watches, was rescheduled for the January 10th meeting. The Hawthorne, Winston-Salem, N.C. We will learn more about the program from the next For detailed information, call Alice Carpenter at (919) 823- CC&WG Newsletter. 2944. Van Every frequently includes some interesting tid bits in his newsletters, and the November issue didn't dis OHIO appoint us. You may have heard one or more of these be One of Ohio's distinguished watch/clockmakers was fore but they are worth repeating. recently honored for another accomplishment that many In 1964, a two-inch cube of steel was worth $300. who have taken his AWI classes probably were not aware How could that possibly be, you ask? When it was made of. Ohio State University recently announced that John P. into watch hairsprings. "Jack" Kenyon was a 1994 Distinguished Service Award Before standard time zones were established, each Winner for his work at Ohio State University. section of the United States established its own time sched ule. It was possible for a train to leave a city in Ohio and arrive in Minnesota all in the same hour. In another sec tion, it required "six hours" to travel thirty miles by rail. MINNESOTA Kern Schwartz, Secretary of the Minnesota Clockmakers Guild, reported on the Guild's activities in a December 12 news release. The MCG met December 8, 1994 and elected the fol lowing officers for 1995: Mike Mishou, President John P. "Jack" Kenyon Kern Schwartz, Vice President and Program Chairman The award was presented at the Homecoming of the Jeff Pomeroy, Secretary and Treasurer College of Food, Agriculture, and Environmental Sciences During the December meeting, a discussion was held of Ohio State University. In 1965, Jack Kenyon left a on next year's number and format of meetings and sym manager's position with the Borden Company in New posiums. The membership felt that the past year was very York, and joined the faculty of Ohio State University as successful, with membership growing to sixty-eight, of an instructor and manager of the department's dairy plant. whom forty-eight are members of AWi. Therefore they In 1973, he was promoted to assistant professor; his ac concluded that, "If it isn't broke, don't fix it," i.e., keep tivities of service to the university and its students are more everything the same. numerous than we can mention. It is because of these ac The program for December consisted of several tivities that Kenyon received this distinguished award. clockmakers talking about the care and maintenance of Since retirement from Ohio State, Kenyon has ad their lathes, plus tooling they have made or modified to vanced his hobby of collecting and repairing unusual and make the clockmaker's life easier. The presentations in valuable clocks. He is an AWi Certified Master cluded: Clockmaker, and developed and taught short courses in Jetf Pomeroy and Richard Zielike-Watchmaker Lathe advanced clock repair throughout the U.S. for AWi. Pres Bruce Robins-Unimat SL ently Kenyon authors the bi-monthly series "Apprentice Bob Prazak-Unimat 3 Clockmaker" for the Horological Times. Last month he Pete Peterson-Sherline & Huckabee Wheel Fixture completed taping an instructional video on clock repair at Milo Bresley-Hand Tool Modification the AWI studio. Once editing is complete, the tape will be Mike Mishou-Tools Suggested by John Wilding available for distribution. 22 Horological Times/February 1995 Another interesting activity that demonstrates Kenyon's concern for his fellow man: he serves as a hot ,~------, line volunteer at the Franklin County (Ohio) Suicide Pre l*ROLEX WATCH MATERIAL* vention Service where he has logged more than 220 hours FOR GREAT SERVICE on the line. Kenyon's many friends around the country and his associates at AWI Central congratulate him on his ON ALL CROWNS, accomplishments. We look forward to working with him SAPPHIRE & PLASTIC for many years to come. CRYSTALS, TUBES, GASKETS, WISCONSIN MOVEMENT PARTS, ETC. The Wisconsin Horological Society is planning for its 60th Annual Convention, April 21-23, 1995 at the Paper CALL: S&G INDUSTRIES Valley Convention Center in Appleton, Wisconsin. Since TOLL FREE 1-800-942-0047 this is a very popular meeting facility, it is not too early to FAX- 1-800-423-4256 make room reservations now. We expect to be able to pub lish the exact convention line-up in the next issue. Still better, contact Glenn Gardner, WHS secretary, 2 West Spy ''WE STOCK WHAT WE SELL" Glass Ct., Madison, WI 53717 to receive the complete details and registration information directly from the as sociation. Those who have attended recent conventions will be pleased to know that the swimming pool doesn't ~ea= close-it's open twenty-four hours. WE GIVE QUICK AND EFFICIENT The Wisconsin Horological Society hosted a very suc SERVICE 24 HOURS A DAY! cessful hairspring seminar the weekend of November 12- 7 DAYS A WEEK! 13, 1994 at the Mid-Way Motor Lodge near the Milwau kee airport. AWi president, Joe Cerullo, was the instruc tor. This seminar provided practice and practical instruc NJ: 1-908-469-7200 tion in dealing with damaged and replacement hairsprings. ~------J RM-90 MARK'V ACS-900 Automatic infrasonic watch cleaner. Ultrasonic watch cleaner. Automatic and programmable. Affordably priced, dependable to Economical to operate. Vibrasonic watch cleaner. operate.solidly built. Perfect for the small shop. Deluxe - top of the line. For more intormation~or VIBROGRAF U.S.A. CORP. the name of your local 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001 distributor contact: Tel: (516) 437-8700 Fax: (516) 437-8708 Horological Times/February 1995 23 A Holder for Machining Large Diameter Work in the Jeweler's Lathe By David J. Carlson achining large diameter pieces in a jeweler's lathe M can be frustrating. I had limited success using ar bors machined from soft blank collets. (One source of 8mm soft blank collets is the Starret Tool Company. Several vendors carry them.) Soft collets easily can be machined in the jeweler's lathe, and tapped to create a range of ar bor sizes. Arbors of this type were useful for work up to a diameter of 25mm, but became increasingly more diffi cult to use with larger work. The accuracy and stability of holding work in a jeweler's lathe is dependent on several factors: •Tension of the collet drawbar • Fit between the slot in the collet and the reference pin in the headstock • The way the work is held down. With increasing work size, the key factor proved to be the Figure 2. Holder in use. tension of the collet drawbar. The tension required could not be obtained without risking damage to the drawbar locking the holder onto this "nosepiece," and combining and the collet threads. it with an arbor, a very stable setup is obtained. A solution to the problem is the work holder shown The components of the holder are shown in Figure 3. separately in Figure 1 and mounted on a Boley lathe as Starting at the left they may be described as follows: part of a gear cutting setup in Figure 2. The improved ac 8mm Collet. The 8mm collet is machined from a soft curacy of the holder is obtained by using the rotating por blank collet. The collet is turned to the same outside di tion of the collet holder that protrudes from the lathe head mension as the nosepiece of the Boley lathe, 0.652". The stock to provide additional support for the workpiece. By thickness is 0.25". The collet is center-drilled and tapped for a 10-24 screwthread. Holder Outside Shell. The holder shell is detailed in Figure 4. The material can be brass or soft steel. The in side dimension of the shell was bored to be a sliding fit over the 8mm collet and the lathe nosepiece. The shell is fastened to the nosepiece of the lathe by three 6-32 hard Figure 3. Holder components Figure 1. Large diameter work holder. 24 Horological Times/February 1995 ··- "· ...... ~SE P1 E"C~ SI-I 011-lG. F1i ~,..... o ....15/Lll r Figure 4. Holder shell detail. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• • • • • • Where can you find the very best? • • • • • • • • Call TWIN CITY for ~ GENUINE ROLEX® WATCH PARTS including: Spring Bars - Crystals - Gaskets - Crowns - Tubes Dear Jeweler, Did you know that using generic Rolex® parts voids the Rolex® warranty? • Twin City is your distributor for Genuine Rolex® parts. • • • iii~ TWIN CITY SUPPLY • ~1 6150 Wayzata Blvd., Minneapolis, MN 55416-1239 • 1~ (612) 545-2725 • T w I N c 0 USA: 800-328-6009 FAX: 800-328-6001 • •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Horological Times/February 1995 25 erred cap screws that have been ground to a point to pro Washer & Screw. The 22mm x 3mm washer is made from vide some "bite." Hardened set screws may be substituted. mild steel. The underside of the washer is undercut in the Caution: Nosepieces vary among different lathes. center to assure good pressure at its diameter. The screw is a The internal dimensions of the holder shell and the l" 10-32 hardened cap screw with a lock washer. outside diameter of the 8mm collet must be adjusted to Figure 5A. Boley nosepiece. Figure 6. Rough cut setup. suit the particular lathe selected. For example, Figure SA is the nosepiece of the Boley used in this article, To machine larger wheels of thin material, it is de and Figure SB is a Levin. Note that the Boley has a step sirable to have two larger washers, one on each side of in the nosepiece and the Levin is smooth. The diam the work. A few sets of washers will handle a wide eters are also different. range of work. As shown in Figure 6, the holder may be used in a larger lathe to rough in work. The work is first mounted in the holder, and then the holder is held in the 3 jaw chuck of the larger lathe. I have used this method very successfully when roughing in gear blanks. This leaves only the finishing cuts to be done in the jeweler's lathe. The use of the nosepiece of the lathe can be advanta geous in other applications. One in particular is to improve the mounting of multi-jaw chucks and faceplates on the jeweler's lathe. The reference slot in the mounting collets of multi-jaw chucks can really take a beating, particularly those without auxiliary tightening levers. The holder cover in Figure 3 can be modified to accommodate the collet used to hold the chuck, and then fitted to the nosepiece of the lathe to provide additional support and strength. Working with the holder has continued to justify the investment in time required to design and build it. A re Figure 5B. Levin nosepiece. cent project using the holder enabled the simultaneous machining of two 80-tooth fusee gears. Any questions, comments, or suggestions are welcome. They can be sub mitted through AWI Central. 0 26 Horological Times/February 1995 Affiliate Chapters Column Keep Talking By Stanley McMahan h, isn't technology wonderful? The world is commu with uncanny accuracy. The Omega part number is 6107. In the A nicating at a more sophisticated level than at any time in Bestfit system, the part number is MIS/167 L These bushings its history. Predictably, the watch and clock repair community come in a package of five. is beginning to use the techniques once reserved for graphics Following is the procedure for replacing the center post artists and wordsmiths to produce effective tools of communi bushing: cation, namely, the newsletter. 1) The old bushing must be pushed out of the tube. Use either a five-sided broach to twist and remove the worn bush The Project ing or, better yet, insert an old #80 drill through the back of the In fact, so many good newsletters are being produced by center post and push the old bushing out. the affiliate chapters, that the AWi Affiliate Chapter Commit 2) Carefully remove a new bushing from the package and tee has decided to begin a newsletter consolidation project. The press it into place. goal is to produce a newsletter that incorporates many of the features and articles of the various publications, plus original articles and bench tips. The resulting redistribution of informa Example #2: tion will provide the individual chapters with new material to For those brave and hard-working souls in charge of con reprint in their newsletters, and also contribute new ideas for vention arrangements, the following will be of interest in plan projects, fund-raising, programs, speakers, etc. ning your next convention booklet, As costs increase, all av enues of generating income should be explored. Because The The Plan New York State Watchmakers' Association so kindly mailed The plan is to produce between four and six newsletters a this tip to the editor, it can now be shared with all the other year containing information gleaned from guild publications. affiliate chapters via the Affiliate Chapter Newsletter. The Affiliate Chapter Newsletter will subsequently be mailed The New York State Watchmakers' Association, Inc. dedi to all the AW! affiliate chapters. The hope is that the guilds that cates a special page of their convention booklet to well-wish are producing newsletters will benefit from the additional in ers. The names of individuals and businesses who make a do formation, and that the guilds not currently producing a news nation to the club to help offset convention costs are printed on letter will be inspired to do so. Guilds that now publish a news this page. From the donation, the guild gets much-needed addi letter know that it can be a powerful tool to increase member tional revenue, and the contributor gets fame and fortune by ship and hold onto current members. being acknowledged in the convention booklet As you can see, the samples above would be useful to the Interested Yet? local guilds' general membership, as well as the officers. Infor Maybe an example or two of the material in the new Affili mation exchange on this level is becoming an essential ingredi ate Chapter Newsletter would be in order. After all, there should ent in running a dynamic organization. The progressive guild be some reward for those who have read this far. The first ex \Vill use this information to increase and hold onto membership ample is a bench technique recently published in the Bulletin of by implementing the more successful projects from other guilds, the South Carolina Watch1naker 's Association newsletter. From and by reprinting useful information in their own newsletters. an individual member's viewpoint, bench tips are one of the more compelling reasons to read a newsletter. Want To Help? The most difficult hurdle to overcome as an editor is a Example #1: scarcity of material. Nothing grinds a newsletter to a screech Many Bulova Accutron 218 movements that have a worn ing halt faster than a lack of information to publish. For this bushing in the center tube assembly (part #106) are beginning project to be a success, please be sure to include the editor to cross the bench. The hole becomes enlarged due to wear. of the Affiliate Chapter Newsletter in your club's mailing This causes problems with second hand clearance, and also list. This will ensure a continual stream of quality articles causes improper depthing between the third wheel assembly and information from which to choose. In turn, this will help and the second wheel as the steel second hand is attracted by all our affiliated organizations produce continually improved the magnets in the fork. This can become an endless source of newsletters with which to attract new members to both the frustration if the problem isn't noted and corrected. local guild and to the AWL 0 Unfortunately, neither the bushing nor the center post is available. However, an uncharacteristically simple solution is Address: Editor -Affiliate Chapter Newsletter at hand. Stanley McMahan The Omega caliber 550 also has a center post bushing that POB 31047 is still available, and this fits in the Accutron 218 center post Greenville, SC 29608-1047 Horological Times/February 1995 27 The Novice Watchmaker On Band Attachment By David Christianson, CMW, FBHI ne of the simplest, and yet often challenging, tasks they readily flex and pop out during use. You'll often find Owe can have as watch repairmen is attaching the these packaged with replacement bands that are sold di watch band to the case. The band usually attaches by means rectly to the consumer in retail outlets other than jewelry of a spring bar (push pin) where the ends collapse inward stores. If you encounter them, throw them away and insert under pressure, and then extend when released into the a properly fitting spring bar. holes of the watch case lugs (the two metal or plastic legs that protrude from the case). Replacing the Spring Bar When the holes become filled with dirt and grime, To replace a spring bar, insert one end into one of the they can be cleaned out by rotating a screwdriver blade in lugs, and retract the other end with a knife blade while the hole. Select a screwdriver that is slightly smaller in holding the end of the retracted pin next to the other lug. diameter than the hole. The holes need to be deep enough With a free finger, slide the end of the pin from the knife to accept the end of the spring bar, preferably to the first blade to the inside of the lug, and then continue sliding shoulder of the spring bar. If it's not deep enough to hold until its end extends into the hole in the lug. Sometimes the pin end securely, usually you can drill the holes deeper with close tolerances or snugly fitting band ends, you will by rotating a sharp screwdriver blade in the hole, bearing have to guide the end of the spring bar into position by down on the blade as you rotate it. pushing on the end of the spring bar with the sharp edge Spring bars come in a variety of styles (see Figure 1). In of your knife blade. general, selection depends simply upon choosing the longest spring bar that will fit between the lugs and the largest diam Removing the Spring Bar eter that will fit through the end of the band. Generally the Removal of the spring bar can be a challenge at times, heavier the watch, the heavier spring bar you'll need. If you too. Usually you can grab near the end of the spring bar choose one that's too thin, it will break during use. If you with the sharp edge of your knife blade or screwdriver, choose one that's too short, it will pop out during use. and retract the end enough to push the spring bar away from the lug (sometimes having to push with a free finger on the end of the band while retracting the spring bar end). If all else fails-and I wouldn't spend a lot of time trying to remove the spring bar-saw the end of the offending spring bar off, and the spring bar will fall out. Many times if the ends of the watch band retract, you can also just cut the spring bar end off with a pair of nippers. But don't try cutting the spring bar if the watch band has solid ends. You're likely to break off the lug in the process. Which Spring Bar to Use No matter how complete an assortment of lengths, Figure I. Spring bar examples (left to right): double shoul diameters and styles of spring bars you have, at times you'll der, extra thin double shoulder, single flange, ultra thin not seem to have enough. The cheaper watch cases do not double flange, buckle single flange. seem to adhere to any kind of standard width between the lugs. Cases made to English (inch) measure do not accept The only caution in choosing spring bar types is this: metric measure spring bars very readily, and vice versa. avoid the telescopic variety. These spring bars are sold as If the longest spring bar that you can get between the "adjustable" spring bars that will fit a variety of band lugs seems to be just a tad too long to fit, you can take a widths. In actual practice, the spring bars are too weak; couple of swipes on its end with a file or stone. 28 Horological Times/February 1995 There is one cardinal rule in attaching watch bands to Installing the Spring Bar watch cases: The end of the band, whether metal or leather, Normally when installing a spring bar, you insert the must be as wide as the opening between the lugs. If the spring bar into the end of the band, insert one end of the end of a metal band is narrower than the lug opening, the bar into a lug, press the other end against the other lug wearer will be constantly breaking spring bars as he wears with one hand, and retract the end of the free end with a his watch (see Drawing A). As the band end shifts to one knife blade while pushing inward toward the lug hole with side of the spring bar during use and the wrist is flexed, both the blade and the supporting hand. If the recess is the end will form a lever, anchored on one end of the spring narrow, you may use a screwdriver blade instead of a knife. bar and leverage against the exposed end of the bar. Many times you'll get the end of the spring bar close to going into the receiving lug hole, but not quite. At this point, you'll need to hold the pin as close to the hole as possible by grasping the band near its end and holding finger pressure on it to hold the spring bar in position. Then, using a screwdriver blade, push against the end of the spring bar toward the hole firmly and steadily until it is forced into the hole. This is not easily done. Figure 2 shows a watch with its difficult-to-fit spring bars that com monly require this technique (because the recess in the case end is just not deep enough for easy installation of a spring bar). Drawing A. If the end of a leather band is narrower than the lug opening, a different situation occurs. As the end of the leather strap shifts to one side of the spring bar during use, the pliable leather will grab the spring bar and pull it toward the end that the leather band is pulling, and pop the end of the spring bar out of the lug. The same thing will happen if you try to use too short a spring bar with a properly fitting leather band. Even though the leather end fits neatly between the lugs, as a lateral twist is applied to the strap, the pliable leather will grab onto the spring bar and try to pull it to one side. If the spring bar is too short, it will pop out. This is exactly the test that should be used when re Figure 2. placing spring bars in a leather band. Grab the watch case in one hand, and pull the strap toward one lug to see if the spring bar will stay or pop out. (See Drawing B.) Figure 3. One of the two spring bars shown works the best in this instance, because the one end is a bit flexible and al lows the spring bar to flex a bit when forced into position Drawing B. with a blade (see Figure 3). D Horological Times/February 1995 29 Bonniksen's Karrusel Watches Part 1 By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC nowledgeable collectors and the new group of billon cage, with its balance and escape wheel and pallet K artisans are concentrating their attention and skills bridges, be as perfectly poised as possible. If not, its entire on Breguet's tourbillon system. Breguet produced his purpose would be negated. This, then, required the greatest tourbillon in the last years of the 18th century. His aim skill and delicacy, time and expense. Each successful prod was to provide a construction that would neutralize the uct was a tour de force of its maker. Thus there were com errors in the vertical positions. To a great extent, it did. paratively few who could undertake the construction of these (See Figure 1.) rare and expensive types of watches. About Bahne Bonniksen, Inventor of the Karrusel Bahne Bonniksen was born in Bov on October 25, 1859, as he put it, a subject of King Christian IX of Den mark (see Figure 2). He served an apprenticeship with a highly regarded watchmaker, N.P. Thorsmark, inApenrade in the Duchy of Schleswig. Later he spent two years in Copenhagen before going to London. He became a Brit ish citizen in 1910, and settled in London with visions of making his own version of the tourbillon system. To this end, he prepared to further improve his knowledge and skills. During a four-year study, he obtained a Full First Class City and Guilds of London Certificate in Applied Mechanics and in Theoretical Mechanics in the Advanced Grades. He also was awarded The City and Guilds Bronze Medal, as well as the Bronze Medal of the Horological Institute. He died in Warwickshire on March 5, 1935. Figure 1. All through the 19th century and into the decade of electronic watches, those incorporating this escapement mounting have been consistent observatory winners. The tourbillon carriage with its balance and escapement, mounted on a revolving platform, assuming every edge wise position in one minute, averaged out these inherent errors in poise. Thus these portable timepieces needed only \ to be regulated for temperature, the flat positions and iso chronism. Its dynamic action made it more appealing to Figure 2. Bahne Bonniksen. the eye. The production of the tourbillon, though, required that With his credentials, Bonniksen became horological the tourbillon cage be made as light as possible to overcome instructor in the Coventry Technical Institute. With this inertia every fifth of a second. Furthermore, despite the bal previous training and current experience, he felt capable ance being centered on this platform, its balance bridge on of attaining his goal of modifying the tourbillon into a one side and the escapement off-center, required that the tour- quantity product that would accomplish much that the tour- 30 Horological Times/February 1995 billon did. Bonniksen termed his version a "karrusel." He described his search and solution as follows: Watches with revolving escapement, known as tour billons, "Breguet's system," were deposited for trial at the Kew Observatory about 1890, and gave re markable results as regards their timekeeping prop erties. This is what led me to consider if it was pos sible to make a really sound, serviceable watch on the revolving escapement principle (The tourbillon being too delicate, as its escapement frame revolves once a minute, making it also more costly to make), the result of my labours being the invention of the karrusel watch, a watch as strong as any ordinary English lever watch, which can be relied upon to keep Photo 3. Close up of movement. Note the position of the time almost as well as an astronomical regulator or a balance bridge. marine chronometer; a watch which may be used upon scientific expeditions or used on any ship or yacht, to determine the longitude at sea; a watch strong enough to stand all the heavy usage of the hunting field; a watch of construction as strong that any ordinary watchmaker of average ability can clean it and handle it as readily as he can the ordinary sorts. Bonniksen further described his invention: The effects of the revolving escapement being that it is absolutely unable to show variations of timekeeping in all the vertical positions .. .in other watches, differ much from each other. That is, a karrusel watch with a gaining rate of one second daily with the 12 o'clock upwards must give the same gain ing rate of one second daily with the 3,6 or the 9 upwards, whereas a watch with a fixed escapement with a gaining rate of one second with the 12 o'clock up may, and usually does, gain or lose any number Photo 1. Smith & Son pin-set, stem-wind, 52 112-minute of seconds or even minutes with the 3, 6 or 9 up karrusel movement No. 188-9174. wards. (See Photos 1, 2 and 3.) These were made with stem winding, pin setting in 14 size; open-face, hunting, demi-hunter and likewise in 16 size; and a deck watch in 18 size. The US government ordered quite a number, but with up and down indicators. Also, a chronograph with fly-back action and a sixty-minute register is listed in Bonniksen's catalog. Another was a center sec onds, 18 size, stem wound, pin set, said to have been made to order from the US government. This latter revolved in thirty four minutes. These were made in hunting and open-faced, and were "guaranteed to well within the limits of a Kew Ob servatory class '/!\requirements." Karrusels were made with faster revolving carriages, some making a complete circuit in six minutes, while the chronograph model made its circuit in about forty minutes. Despite the excellence of performance, and the com parative economical method of manufacture, no other country produced as many as did Great Britain. Occasional Photo 2. Dial side of watch in Figure 3, showing the ad excellent examples did appear by individuals in Glashutte, miralty marks that denoted precision testing. Dresden and Switzerland. 0 Horological Times/February 1995 31 Technically Watches Antique Watch Restoration, Part CX Making Roller Jewels By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, MBHI ©1995 (All rights reserved by the author) The reason for learning how to make roller jewels is Making a Round Roller Jewel .l that many of the antique watches with lever escapements Figure 1 shows how a round roller jewel is ground and pol have roller jewels that are not obtainable ready-made. About ished to shape. The roughed-out jewel material is cemented into a the only roller jewels available are the ones with a D-shape. centered hole in the end of a brass rod. Square-shaped jewel mate When there is a need for a round, oval, square, or a triangular rial can be ground to an octagon shape prior to grinding it round by shaped roller jewel, it must be made special for the particular cementing the square material into a groove in the end of a pivot job. In some cases, the proper size D-shaped jewel must be made for the job, or at least the flat face of a D-shaped jewel may need to be given a curved shape to match the old jewel. Selecting the Material for Making Roller Jewels Roller jewels have been made from sapphire, ruby, and garnet. Sapphire and ruby, however, are the best materials for jewels because of the hardness and other characteristics of the material. The material used for jewels in early watches was natu ral ruby and sapphire. The jewels made after 1930 are made from synthetic ruby and sapphire. Synthetic ruby and sapphire are more uniform than the genuine stones. Synthetic ruby and synthetic sapphire are both corundum, which is an oxide of alu minum or crystallized alumina Al 0 • Corundum has a hard 2 3 ness of 9 on the mobs scale, and 2000 on the knoop scale. The difference in the color of ruby and sapphire is achieved with additives to the aluminum oxide. Clear sapphire is made from pure alumina. Pink ruby is made from alumina and less than 2% of oxide of chromium. Dark red ruby is made from alumina and more than 2% of oxide of chromium. Blue sapphire is made from alu Figure I . mina plus oxide of iron and dioxide of titanium. Ruby and sapphire material for making jewels can usually be obtained from a lapidary shop. Making Jewels from the Jewel Material To shape the jewel material during the manufacturing of jewels, diamond powder or diamond paste is used. This is used A because of the hardness of the ruby and sapphire material. The diamond powder or diamond paste is rolled into the surfaces of laps with a hard steel roller. The laps are usually made of cop per and boxwood. A copper lap is usually used for grinding and shaping the material, and boxwood laps are used for polishing. When the jewel material needs to be sawed to divide it into workable pieces, this is done with a diamond-charged saw. A saw can be made from a thin disk of copper or soft steel. A thin circle saw blade makes a good diamond saw by first removing the teeth from the edge of the saw, and then rolling diamond compound into the edge of the disk. B The diamond compound can be obtained from a lapidary shop. It comes in different grits in tubes or syringes. The grits are in mesh sizes. A 3,000 mesh is for grinding, an 8,000 mesh is for fine grinding, and a 14,000 mesh is for polishing. Each mesh is used on a different lap. Figure 2. 32 Horological Times/February 1995 polisher lap as shown in View B, Figure 2. The four comers are jewel. The diamond paste on the diamond lap is self-lubri ground off to form an octagon. The rod is chucked in the headstock cating. If a dry charged diamond lap is used, the lap can be of the lathe. Then, a pivot polisher lap is used on the spindle of the lubricated with kerosene. A piece of cloth can be saturated pivot polisher to grind the material round. Next, another lap is used in kerosene and used to wipe the diamond lap occasionally. for polishing the jewel. The jewel material should tum in the same Figure 6 shows another method used to hold the round roller direction as the lap of the pivot polisher. This means that the sur jewel while making a flat face to form a D-shaped jewel. The face of the jewel should oppose the surface of the lap. Very little round roller jewel is held in a 90° angle slot in the edge of a flat pressure is applied against the jewel with the lap. The screws in the brass block. The brass block is rested on top of a saw table as rocking bar of the pivot polisher are used to adjust the pressure of shown. The block is manipulated on the saw table with the fin the lap against the roller jewel. The lap is moved back and forth on gers as the jewel is presented to the diamond lap. The surface of the jewel using a longitudinal motion of the pivot polisher spindle. the roller jewel must be held flat on the lap to assure that the The end of the jewel is ground and polished by using the end of the flat face on the jewel will be kept straight, flat, and the same lap across the end of the jewel. After the jewel has been ground width from one end of the jewel to the other end. The block and polished to size, it is broken off close to the end of the brass should be slid back and forth on the saw table to allow the face rod in which it is held. A pair of brass or bellmetal tweezers can be of the jewel to change places on the face of the lap. used for breaking off the jewel. Making a Triangular-Shaped Roller Jewel Making a D-Shaped Roller Jewel Figure 7, View A shows how a D-shaped roller jewel is A D-shaped roller jewel can be made from a round roller held in a 90° angle V-groove in the end of a pivot polisher lap jewel. Figure 3, View A shows a D-shaped roller jewel, and when making a triangular roller jewel. More than one jewel can View B shows the amount of material that is removed from a be held and worked on at the same time. This lap can take two round roller jewel to form a correct profile for a D-shaped roller jewels, and many more can be held by milling more grooves in jewel. This illustration shows that 2/5 of the round is removed, the end of the lap. and 3/5 is left for the shape of the jewel. The flat side that is formed when the material is removed is the front face of the roller jewel. To make a D-shaped roller jewel, the round roller jewel is cemented into a 90° groove in the end of a pivot polisher lap as shown in Figure 2, View A. Then, the flat face is formed on the round roller jewel as shown in Figure 4. The diamond lap is chucked true in the lathe headstock. The pivot polisher lap holding the roller jewel is set so its end is parallel to the surface of the diamond lap as shown. The pivot polisher spindle is not rotated; only the diamond lap is rotated. Enough longitudinal pressure is applied on the pivot polisher spindle to hold the jewel against the diamond lap. The jewel is moved back and forth on the surface of the diamond lap by rocking the spindle of the pivot polisher as the rocking bar of the pivot polisher is manipulated. Figure 5 shows another view of the roller jewel that is having the flat face made on its surface to form a D-shaped Figure 4. View B, Figure 7 shows the roller jewel after the second bevel has been made. Note that some of the roundness is left on the comer of the jewel joining the front face of the jewel. The same amount of roundness is left on the opposite corner when A the third bevel is made on the jewel. This roundness is neces sary to help prevent wear to the fork slot since it is these two comers of the roller jewel that contact the sides of the fork slot. Figure 8, View A shows how the jewel is positioned in the V-groove of the pivot polisher lap prior to making the third bevel on the jewel. View B shows the roller jewel after the third bevel I has been made, which completes the triangular roller jewel. I i 5 Curving the Front Face of a Roller Jewel I The roller jewel for some high-grade watches has a curved B 1------:,,·---t face. This allows the escapement to be set up to closer tolerances. \ \ ,' i The curved face is found on some D-shaped and triangular shaped ' , 5 jewels. Figure 9, View A shows how the face of a D-shaped jewel ...... ______;::"'_:-:.~'----- 1 - is curved, and View B shows how the face is curved on a triangular Figure 3. jewel. View C, Figure 9 shows that the radius of curvature on the Horological Times/February 1995 33 A Figure 5. B Figure 7. A Figure 6. face of the jewel is equal to the distance from the center of the roller table to the front of the hole for the roller jewel. Methods Used for Curving the Face of a Roller Jewel Figure 10 shows one method that can be used to curve the face of a roller jewel. This method uses a tubular lap which is shown in View A. The roller jewel is held in a 90° groove in the side of a brass rod as shown in View B, Figure 10. The diameter of the brass rod is equal to two times the roller jewel radius. The groove is cut to a depth that allows the face of the roller B jewel to extend out just enough from the edge of the rod so the face of the jewel can be curved without the lap touching the rod. The hole in the tubular lap should be of such a diameter that the lap will just clear the rod holding the jewel. Figure 8. View C, Figure 10 shows how the lap is used. The tubular lap can be chucked true in the lathe headstock while the rod holding the jewel is held in a chuck holding tailstock as shown. of the slide rest. The chuck holding device is held down with The tailstock spindle is manipulated to move the rod and jewel the fingers in the V-notch of the block while it is turned back back and forth inside the tubular lap. and forth with the other hand (while the jewel is in contact with Figure 11 shows another method that can be used to curve the diamond lap). The jewel is advanced toward or retracted the face of a roller jewel. View A shows the general setup for from the lap by turning the slide rest screw. The jewel is moved curving the roller jewel face. The diamond lap is held in the back and forth on the lap by sliding the chuck holder length lathe headstock, while the rod holding the jewel is chucked in a wise in the V-notch. View B, Figure 11 shows an enlarged end round chuck holding device. The chuck holding device is held view of the jewel on the face of the lap. The arrows show how in a V-block that is attached to the top of a slide rest by two the jewel is turned back and forth on the face of the lap to curve screws. The screws go into metal blocks that fit into the T-slot the face of the roller jewel. Note that the spindle of a milling attachment, or the spindle of a grinder, can also be used instead 34 Horological Times/February 1995 of the V-block and chuck holder to curve the face of a roller jewel. The spindle should be set in the same position as shown in Figure 11, View A. Making an Oval-Shaped Roller Jewel Figure 12 shows how the round roller jewel can be held while it is shaped to make an oval-shaped roller jewel. A verti cal V-groove is milled in a brass block for holding the jewel. The block is used on top of a saw table to present the jewel to the diamond lap. An oval shape is given one side of the jewel. Then, the jewel is turned one-half turn in the groove and recemented. Next, the oval shape is completed by grinding the same radius curve on the opposite side of the jewel. The en larged view in Figure 12 better shows the jewel being shaped. I A ---t--I,, B '\ ' \ Figure 11. \ ' ' I ' I \ \ I \ R / \ I \ \ I \ \ / ~ ·. // ',', ,, n \\/- , ...... _ c ------ Figure 9. A B Figure 12. "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next month. 0 BIBLIOGRAPHY Daniels, George. Watchmaking. London: Sotheby's Publications, 1985, pp. 175-193. Levin, Louis and Samuel. Practical Benchworkfor Horologists, Los Angeles, CA: Louis Levin and Son, Inc. 1950, pp. 307-333. Levin, Louis and Samuel. Horology Magazine. "A Triangular Jewel Pin." Los Angeles, CA, November, Figure JO. 1939 issue Horological Times/February 1995 35 ,, Fabrique D'Ebauches ETA S.A. Grenchen (Switzerland) ETA Cal. 11112" 2892-2 Intermediate Reduction Wheel AWI is publishing this information as a service to its New Concept for the Bearing members, with the permission of ETAS.A. Following various analyses and tests, and A design change in the rotor's weight has been made on the basis of the resulting conclusions, we as noted in this bulletin. have improved the position of the bearing. By moving the jewel A of the frame of the automatic mechanism 1134/12.030.07 to the in termediate reduction wheel 1490/32.032, it was 1134/12.030.07 1547/82.338 possible to stabilize the level of load at the height B-B' (see Figure 1) during the transmission of power from the reduction wheel to the ratchet wheel driving wheel. Thanks to the new concept, an occasional 8 B' inclined position that causes braking at the C C' level (see Figure 2) is avoided. Flexibility of the New Concept In order to carry out this change both in old movements and in the current series, a steel stud Fig. 1 NEW 1547/82.338 with the same diameter as the jewel is driven into the hole in this last part. The stud Figure 1. needs to be driven in in such a way that on the movement side it is flush with the frame E (see Figure 1), so that the vertical clearance of the 1134/12.030.07 intermediate reduction wheel 1490/32.032 is ad justed exactly. c Greasing the Bearing The stud of the intermediate reduction wheel C' 154 7/82.338 made of steel should be lubricated with thick Moebius 8200 oil or D5 grease. Improved rotor In order to improve the winding, the rotor's Fig.2 OLD weight has been modified by reducing the bev eling. See Figure 3. Figure 2. 36 Horological Times/February 1995 1110/1026 Cal. 111 o + 1111 n Cal. 2a92.. 2 ETA Old execution 1110/1026 SAV 1108/1143 Cal. 11 oa + 1109 n Cal. 2892-A2 ETA New execution Figure 3. The bevel of the oscillating weight has been modified that the watchmaker check the freedom of the oscillating (smaller); for certain cases, this means that an adjustment weight when changing the movement or the case. 0 of its back cover is necessary. We therefore recommend CRYSTAL INSERTING TOOLS 085028-crystal inserting set complete with 10 Your Crystal Needs tapered, 3 flat fixtures for W RA. 88503-set of 5 male plugs and 5 tapered fix tures with 1 flat aluminum plate for con C!:!W FEATURES: ventional crystals. •Heavy enough for bench use without rivet 88506-set of 2 supplementary platforms • Plier11rip extension for pressure control (32 .0 & 34.0mm) . CRYSTAL 88508-set of 8 straight wall fixtures (gents). •Convenient spring return action 88507-2 larger double sided straight wall fix •Closed c:ise backing •Deeper thrust tures to go with 88508. P R ES S • Useable for all unbreakable crystals 88509-set of 8 straight wall fixtures (ladies). 88510-set of 4 extra large double sided straight wall fixtures. 88610-combination includes 885028 plus all ------•I fixtures listed above. AMERICAN PERFIT CRYSTAL CORP. ARE YOU REPLACING BATTERIES? 653 Eleventh Ave. Use our 88505 COMBINATION New York, NY 10036 88505-88 Press, plus 88508 for closing case backs. Horological Times/February 1995 37 Repeater, Quarter Striker, Petite/Grande Sonnerie, & Music Box Clocks LEO A. JAROSLAW ©1995 All rights reserved by the author. Part 5 An Unusual Waterbury Westminster Chime Bracket Block Introduction the barrel in "chime" position. When the barrel is in "chime" In Part 4, I discussed the general operation of this position, the rear four chime operating fingers line up with clock, and some of the patents concerned. I then started to the beveled fingers. The first forward hammer is exclusively discuss chime operation and the chime control system. a strike hammer, and is not used in "chime." Now, to continue. Chime/Strike Hammers Chime Drive (See Figure 5.1 on page 39) There are five hammers. The one closest to the rear Power to drive the chime barrel comes from a large plate is strike only. The next three work in both strike and chime wheel ( 1) mounted on the rear projecting end of the chime, while the rearmost hammer works only in chime. chime third wheel arbor (2) of the chime train. This large The strike hammer is part of an assembly constructed dif chime wheel drives the intermediate chime wheel (3). The ferently than the others (see Figure 5.1. Views C and D ). intermediate chime wheel is mounted on a stud (4) attached NOTE: Views A and Dare from photos of the clock I am to the rear plate. discussing. Views B and C are taken directly from the patent. The chime barrel is comprised of a hub ( 6) that is The numbers in parentheses are keyed to Figure 5.1. mounted on a stud (5) also attached to the rear plate. A chime driving wheel (8) is a part of this hub. It is driven Strike Hammer by the intermediate chime wheel. The core of the strike hammer is the hammer sleeve (24 ), which is mounted and rotates on the hammer stud Chime Barrel Assembly (See Figure 5.1 Views E and F) (17). An eye plate (23) is attached to the sleeve. The cou As mentioned above, the chime barrel is made up of pling arm (22) is a formed extension of the eye plate, ex the hub (6), which rides on a stud. A bevel (9) is machined tending under hammers #2, 3, and 4. on the inner end of this hub. This bevel is part of the NOTE: Let me quote directly from the patent on the pur "Chime/Silent" mechanism, which will be discussed later. pose and use of the coupling arm. "The effect of the coupling Mounted just back of this bevel is the chime drive wheel arm which is operated by the power of the strike train, is to (8). The four chime wheels (10) with beveled fingers (11) lift one or more of the chime hammers concurrently with the are mounted on the rear portion of the hub with spacer hour strike hammer. The number of chime hammers so lifted washers (12) between them. The rear portion of the hub is will of course depend on the length of the coupling arm and turned down to accept the chime wheel/spacers. This re upon the character of the chord to be struck. As shown, the duced diameter provides a shoulder (13) for locating and clock is designed to sound the hour upon a chord produced securing the chime wheel/spacers. The chime wheel/spac by the concurrent action of the chime hammers and the strike ers are secured to the hub with two screws ( 14) going hammer. The action of the chime hammers in conjunction through them and threaded into the shoulder (13). The stud with the hour strike hammer in no wise interferes however, (5) upon which the chime barrel rides is slightly longer with their chiming action in which they operate independently than the length of the barrel. This is so that the barrel can of the hour strike hammer." be shifted for the beveled fingers (11) to clear the chime As you see, the clock I worked on had the coupling operating fingers (15) in the "silent" mode. arm extended under the second, third and fourth hammers, A compression spring (7) is mounted on the stud be producing a four-note chord. As mentioned, the possibil tween its head and the hub. This spring normally keeps ity exists within this design for a two-, three-, four-, or 38 Horological Times/February 1995 five-note chord. However, I do not know whether any but gathering pins come under the end of the hook on the lift the four-note was ever in production. A leather cushioning ing arm (25), rotating the whole assembly CCW. strip is attached to the outer face of the coupling arm as a Also attached to the sleeve is another eyeplate (29). In sound deadener. the patent drawings (Views Band C), the hammer bar (18) is A hooked hammer lifting arm (25, Views C and D) is an integral part of the eyeplate, as is the hammer tail (19). In also attached to the sleeve (24). This arm co-acts with the the clock under discussion, both the hammer bar(18) and the gathering pins (26) mounted on the gathering hub (27, View tail (19) are brass wire, attached to the eyeplate. B). This hub is mounted on the rear extension of the strike third wheel arbor (28). In strike mode, the arbor (28) and Chime Hammer the hub (27) rotate CCW (as viewed from the front). The The chime hammer is constructed slightly different 7 view G 33 Silent Chime CHIME/SILENT ASSY . View H 4 0 19 20 37 37 NOT TO SCALE 1. Large chime wheel 11. Beveled fingers 21. Hammer spring carrier 31. Stud 2. Chime third wheel arbor 12. Spacer washer 22. Coupling arm 32. Rubber buffer 3. Intermediate chime wheel 13. Machined shoulder 23. Eye plate 33. Operating lever 4. Intermediate chime wheel stud 14. Chime wheel screws 24. Hammer sleeve 34. Rock shaft 5. Chime barrel stud 15. Chime operating fingers 25. Hammer lifting arm 35. Crank arm 6. Chime barrel hub 16. Hammer hub 26. Gathering pins 36. Operating pin 7. Compression spring 17. Hammer stud 27. Gathering hub 37. Bell crank lever 8. Chime drive wheel 18. Hammer bar 28. Striking third wheel arbor 38. Operating finger 9. Chime hub bevel 19. Hammer tail 29. Eye plate 39. Stud 10. Chime wheels 20. Hammer springs 30.Arm 40. Timing Mark #4 Figure 5.1 Chime Drive-Chime Strike Components Horological Times/February 1995 39 than the strike hammer. Instead of the sleeve, a hub ( 16) is 4. Carefully replace the intermediate chime gear with used for each of the four hammers. They are also mounted out disturbing the position of the chime barrel. on the hammer stud ( 17). The hubs have eyeplates attached 5. Move the minute hand to the first quarter. Check as in the strike hammer. The chiming hammers are inte for the normal four-note descending scale of the first quar grated with their tails, or have the brass wire hammer bars ter of the Westminster chime. The 4 should now be in the and tails. In the patent, what was the hammer tail for the 12 o'clock position. Check that no chime hammer tail is strike hammer is called an operating arm (19) for the one hung up on a chime wheel finger. Readjust, by one tooth chime hammer or the three chime/strike hammers. at a time, as necessary. Additionally, the eyeplates of the chime and chime/ 6. Continue the check through all four quarters. Also strike hammers have an integral operating finger (15). check at each quarter that there is a short run before the first These fingers co-act with the beveled fingers ( 11) of the chime hammer tail is contacted. Readjust if necessary. four chime wheels (10). The chime hammer hubs and the 7. Check "chime/silent" in "silent" mode through all strike hammer sleeve oscillate upon the hammer stud ( 17) four quarters for clearance between hammer tails and independently of each other. chime wheel fingers. Hammer Damping and Control Chime/Silent Control and Operation (See Figure 5.1 The hammer tails co-act with the hammer springs (20). Views G and H) These springs are mounted on the arm (30) of the spring An extension operating lever (33) protrudes through carrier (21). the left side of the dial. This lever is attached to the "chime/ As shown in view B, a stud (31) is mounted on the silent" arbor (34). Mr. Wehringer calls this a rock shaft, rear plate just above the hammer tails (19). This stud lim and it extends through both plates. Attached to the rear of its the downward movement of all the hammers. The stud the rock shaft is a short link called a crank arm (35), with is encased in a rubber tube that acts as a buffer (32) or the operating pin (36) in its lower end. This pin fits into a sound deadener. This design is described in the patent. slide cutout in the upper end of the bellcrank lever (37). The design of the actual clock is as in View A. The This lever is pivoted on a stud (39) at the juncture of the stud (31) is located higher on the rear plate. The brass vertical and horizontal arms. The horizontal arm (operat wire hammer tails are extended in a sort of "S" shape, ing finger-38) extends above the chime barrel stud. It with a hook that engages the stud to limit the hammer's acts upon the chime hub bevel (9). In action, moving the downward movement. This design provides the means to extension lever from "silent" to "chime" rotates the rock adjust the "at rest" hammer head to chime bar spacing. shaft and its crank arm (35) CCW. NOTE: Remember, all directions are as viewed from the front. Chime Set Up CCW movement of the crank arm moves the vertical As we have seen in this design, the chime rods are not arm of the bell crank lever (37) to the right, and the oper set in the usual progressive change in tone. The lengths ating finger (38) down. The end of the operating finger (and resulting tones) are not progressive either. Because contacts the chime hub bevel (9) of the chime barrel, shift of this situation, the usual reference point of the lifters or ing it back on its stud (5). This compresses the chime bar pins on a chime barrel being in an even stagger is missing. rel compression spring (7). The chime wheels (10) with When reassembling, look for a #4 stamped on the outer beveled fingers ( 11-lifter cams) are now lined up with face of the chime hub (40). Upon completion of the strike, the chime hammer tails ( 19). Rotation of the chime barrel before chiming the first quarter, the 4 is at 3 o'clock. will now sound the Westminster chime. Moving the extension lever from "chime" to "silent" To Set Up works in reverse. The operating finger (38) is lifted away As there is no adjustable gear secured by a set screw, from the beveled cone. The barrel is shifted by the com as in many other chimers, a different procedure must be pressed spring back into "silent," which is the normal at used. rest position of the barrel. The chime operating fingers 1. Remove intermediate chime gear (3). (15) now miss the beveled fingers (11) on the chime 2. Move minute hand to the hour, stopping at each wheels, and the chime is silenced. quarter. Allow chime train to complete each quarter. Stop In "silent," only the chime is silenced. The strike on when strike occurs. the hour will continue. There is no provision for silencing NOTE: As you have removed the intermediate chime the strike. gear, the chime barrel does not rotate. There will be no This completes this part. In the next part, I will be action of the chime hammers. discussing strike control and operation, and the 2/16/15 3. Position the chime barrel with the 4 at 3 o'clock. patent differences. D 40 Horological Times/February 1995 Museum Donations and Wish List As a result of the trustees' appeal for the donation of Chelsea 8-day, 7j, WWI, 2 3/4 11 dial, US Army and items to display in the soon-to-be-expanded Orville R. Air Service Signal Corps Clock (similar to their Model Hagans Museum, we are pleased to report on the follow "C" auto clock) ing donations received from Forrest and Fred Crum, St. Chelsea 8-day, 7j, brass case, rectangular movement, Francis, Kansas: engine room clock-WWI One 18 size 15 jewel Mosler bank vault clock made Chelsea Ship's Bell Clock, brass, I2-hour dial, 4 1/2 11 by Illinois, case #4570364, movement #4570764 to 6 11 dial One I6 size 15 jewel Mosler bank vault clock made Chelsea Mark I Deck and Boat Clock, model I 7K by Waltham, movement #33825351 (1938-1942), chrome-plated brass case, llj movement One 18 size 15 jewel "Bankers Dust Proof Timelock Chelsea Boat, Deck, Engine Room and Radio Clock Company" bank vault clock (1942-70), model 12E, I2- and 24-hour dials with sweep One 13 jewel "Herman D. Steel Yale & Towne" Swiss second hand, black phenolic case with hinged bezel made bank vault clock Note: some of the 12E and I 7E models were fitted All gifts to the museum are tax deductible. In addition black phenolic case, which was dust- and moisture-proof, to donations, the trustees seek the loan of collections or and equipped with a cushioned bulkhead mounting plate. individual items for a specified period of time. All radio clocks were 6", I 2-hour dial with a secondary Last month our "wish list" involved American-made row of numerals 13 through 00, with a red-painted 3- watches. This month, we are featuring a wish list of cer minute silent period and four-second red alarm marking tain military time pieces. Here are some of the items we on the dial. would like to add to our display: Elgin marine chronometer Seth Thomas Clocks Hamilton marine chronometer in transporting case Any brass lever ca. 1879, engine lever ca. 1882, Navy (three-tier box with gimbals) lever ca. I889; most were 1-day, 3 1/2 11 to 4 1/2 11 to 6" dial Any other makes, American (Negus, Bond, Bliss, (porcelain) Eggert, Heinrich) or foreign (Nardin, Chas. Frodsham, Any one-day chronometer level clock: #5003, 3 1/2 11 Parkinson & Frodsham, Kullberg, A. Johannsen & Co. , porcelain dial; #5004, 4 1/2 11 dial; #5006, 4 112" dial Tobias, Earnshaw, Poole, Dent and others) Chronometer lever, 8-day, movement #22, ca. 1900, 9j; ca. 1904, llj escapement Aircraft Clocks: Type A-11, A-11-TIA, AN57A3-1A Boat clock, 8-day brass case, screw bezel, # 112 move Bulova, Elgin, Waltham ment, 7j escapement Also, Waltham's 37 size, 8-day airplane clock models Deck and engine room clocks, model 10 or lOA, 8- XA and XX; and type A13A 22 size, 8-day, 22 jewels day, 2 large barrels with conical balance pivots in jewel Le Coultre, Lemania, Wittnauer, Revue Thommen screws, or V-shaped pivots mounted in V-shaped steel bal (some with chronograph functions), Wakmann ance screws. Note: this movement was also used to oper Foreign: Seikosha, Junghans, Kienzle (used in WW2 ate weather instruments, tide gauges, etc. aircraft) Ship's bell movement, I-day, 6 11 dial, lever movement, 4B movement, ca. I883, bell and movement on a wooden Aircraft Elapse Time clocks board, bell outside movement. (some may have civil data indicator) Ship's bell, model #115, ca. I935, 7j movement, brass Elgin/Hamilton, Waltham's 8-day model ABU-43A, case. Some cases after 1942 had a black crack finish. Al3A-1, -2, and -3 Marine lever, used 6 11 deck and 10 11 engine room Breitling (type A-lOA), Wakmann, Revue Thommen clocks, ca. 1924, model #116, round 3 Il/16 11 movement Waltham's Elapse Timer (only) Aircraft Type W-I2, Model #117, rectangular movement, 8-day, 7j used in 11 11 8-day, 22s, 22j these 6 , 8 , 10" marine clocks: nos. 6-60-80, ca. 1920s 11 11 Waltham's (CD.I.A.) Civil Data Indicator Aeronauti Boat and deck clocks 6 and 8 1/2 , type A, black phe cal Clock, 37 size, 8-day, 24 hours, I5j nolic case mechanical clocks 12- and 24-hour dials, with sweep second hand, ca. 1938-55, hinged bezel. Deck, Boat, Engine Room, Radio Clocks Some of the early models (around 1939-42) were Chelsea 4 11 and 6 11 boat and deck, brass screw bezel mounted in chrome-plated brass cases, eccentric sec case, black or white, I2-hour dial, Arabic and Roman nu ond hand, set from the back and mounted on a heavy merals, 7j, 8-day movement bulkhead plate. D Horological Times/February 1995 41 News of the Trade New Line of Watches from Wittnauer International Wittnauer International has introduced a limited edi tion timepiece in celebration of the announcement of the new company name, Wittnauer International (formerly Longines-Wittnauer). The Wittnauer Lifetime Plus™ watch is presented in a rich mahogany wood-carved box, and it is accompanied by a commemorative book, Wittnauer: A History of the Man & His Legacy, written by renowned horologist Henry B. Fried and chronicling the company's rich history. Men's and women's solid gold versions feature mechanical movement, an onyx cabachon crown and sweep second hand. Each carries an exclusive Lifetime Plus™ warranty, the first transferable guarantee in the world that can be handed down from generation to generation. Figure 1. Newall's steam dragon. Movado Design Store Opens at Rockefeller Center An elegant new Movado Design Store opened its doors Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp. Introduces RM-80, RM-90 in New York City at 630 Fifth Avenue, between 50th and Watch Cleaners 51st, on Thursday, December 1, 1994. Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp. announced the introduction The ground-level shop had been designed from the of the RM-80 basic model watch cleaner, affordably priced floor up as a showroom for the complete Movado line. at $2,695, and the RM-90 automatic watch cleaner, fea- Complementing the simplicity of the Movado gold dot turing infrasonic action. Both models are of rugged de museum watch dial and its Bauhaus inspiration, sleek, sign and come with a two-year guarantee. Trade in your contemporary glass cases present an incomparable collec old inefficient cleaner toward a new Vibrograf Watch tion of Movado watches and jewelry designs. Cleaner. Contact Joseph Presti, president of Vibrograf, at Upstairs, on the second floor, a Movado watch mu (516) 437-8700 for more details. seum has been created. As the first and only dedicated watch museum in New York City, it will house a rotating exhibit of seventy to eighty highly collectible Movado timepieces from the company's corporate collection. Visi tors can learn about the history and design significance of the individual watches on display from the specially pre pared case cards and plaques accompanying each piece. Movado is also working on a book about its illustri ous history, and would like to hear from people with time pieces or information that might merit inclusion. Anyone with such material to contribute to this project is invited to contact Bernhard Stoeber, vice president of technical and after sales service at North American Watch Corpora tion: 125 Chubb Avenue, Lyndhurst, NJ 07071. (201) 460- 3850. Newall Manufacturing Inc. Introduces the Steam Dragon The steam dragon shown in Figure 1 is an advanced state-of-the-art "flash steam generator" that uses new at mospheric steam cleaning technology. It is safe to oper ate, highly reliable and economical. Contact Newall Manu facturing (800) 621-6296 for details. Figure 2. Vibrograf RM-90 watch cleaner. 42 Horological Times/February 1995 News of the Trade GIA's Publication Gems & Gemology Marks 60th Anniversary Gems & Gemology, the Gemological Institute of America's award-winning quarterly journal, has marked its 60th continuous year of publication. "American gemology was truly in its infancy when the first issue appeared," editor in-chief Richard T. Liddicoat recalled."Nevertheless, in the early days, we published much of Eduard Giibelin's pioneer ing gemstone inclusion studies, as well as articles by such other great gemologists as Basil Anderson, Robert Webster, and Robert Shipley Jr. "Through the years, the publication has endeavored to remain in the forefront of a rapidly developing science, and to seek the ideas and scientific contributions of the leaders of gemology and allied disciplines." Alice Keller, the Gems & Gemology editor who over saw the publication's 1980s metamorphosis from its mod est initial format to its present form, agreed. "We've cov ered every major gem treatment and synthetic of the cen tury, and we' ve become the journal of record on gemological research and gem localities. In recent years, we've presented a showcase for some the world's best gemstone and jewelry photography." Gems & Gemology has won the American Society of Association Executives' Gold Circle Award for the last two years. The ASAE holds the competition annually to recog CASIO WATCH nize outstanding publications produced by US associations. PARTS Filled Diamonds Article Available as Reprint Due to heavy demand in the industry, the article "An No Minimum Order Required Update on Filled Diamonds: Identification and Durabil ity" from the Fall 1994 issue of Gems & Gemology, is now available from the magazine as a journal reprint. It Kahen Enterprises can be purchased for $9.95 in the US ; $13 elsewhere. Official Casio Distributor Contact the Gems & Gemology Subscriptions Department toll-free in the US at (800) 421-7250, ext. 201. Outside + We carry ALL the parts the US, call (310) 829-2991, ext. 201. Or write Gems & for ALL Casio Products! Gemology Subscriptions, P.O. Box 2110, Santa Monica, California 90407 -2110. 0 + Prompt, Courteous Service Saving your Horological Times? + We accept MasterCard, Visa, Announcing and American Express NEW & IMPROVED HT BINDERS! We have the answer to protecting and organizing your maga zines. Our leather-look binder holds 12 issues (one vol + Overnight Shipping Available ume). End the frustration of searching for back issues or trying to remember technical details that you just know you' ve read. If you are interested in organization, send a CALL TODAY TOLL FREE check or money order in the amount of $12.00 (postpaid) to: HT Binders, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. (Please allow three weeks for handling and delivery.) (800) 418-2345 Horological Times/February 1995 43 CLASSIFIED ADS REGULATIONS AND RATES Ads are payable in advance $.75 per word, $.80 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $30.00 per column inch, 2-1/4" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $5.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. April issue closes for copy on March 1st). HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131 , ALVIN KRUTOLOW FOR CLOCK WHEEL AND RO LEX SERVICE TRADESMAN PINION CUTTING II II Master Watchmaker, 47 years experience. Awarded technical certificate from Rolex in Fast service -- Write for free Bro 1977. Service includes case & bracelet refin chure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 ishing &waterproofing of case. All watch parts Himes St .• Irving, TX75060. (214) HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR. are genuine Roi ex. We specialize in the repair 986-7698. Expert, experienced service on all Model 500 of high-grade watches & clocks. Not affiliated and 505 Electric watches. -- Want to buy with Rolex Watches, Inc. USA. Ask for Alvin or Hamilton Electric parts. Also unusual Hamilton \..Marcus, (203) 792-4539. .... watches, Hamilton advertising and memorabil SHIP'S CHRONOMETERS OVER ia. --Rene Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, Corte Madera, HAULED. Also keys, box hardware, etc. I buy CA 94976. (415) 924-6534, Fax (415) 924-8423. TIMING MACHINES -- NEW AND REFUR chronometers and partial movements. 1 year BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON guarantee on repairs. DEWEY CLARK, HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. (410) 592-3617. DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, Call (814) 692-2285. FINEST QUALITY,quantityworks welcome. WATCHREPAIRFORTRADE.Largeorsmall Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit accounts. All types of watches. 25 years experi the quartz movement. Send your works to: POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR -- Bezels, hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, ence. Casciato Watch Repair, 62 Coraopolis KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Rd. , Coraopolis, PA 15108. Phone (412) 922- Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. 4397 or(412) 331-7684. CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin PLATFORM ESCAPEMENTS. I have 40 THE ACCUTRON MAN ions. Module 0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile produc years experience in restoring and making parts L) ing traditional square bottomed teeth, 104 sizes. for platform escapements, staffs, cylinders, Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), dead A "Cracker Jack" when 1t repivoting, pinions, hairsprings, and jewels. beat (set of four sizes). Ratchets 60° and 70°. All New platforms fitted.JOHNBARRS,English comes to repairing Accutron Watches! cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High Speed Clockmaker, 3924 S.W. Holden St., Seattle, Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also WA 98136; (206) 935-0596. Let me "Spaceview It" accord.mg to cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Send for Bulova Factory Standards! Information Sheet, prices, and order forms to: P.P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Horological Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Upper r"ot anxious to spend money >') •• •• • lhen trade QUARTZCONVER~ONS in your model 214 & 218 junker watches Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, England; Tele phone 0295-680454, Fax 0295-688176. WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED? for cash credit agai os1 your repair bill! NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA Why not give me a call and..... ATMOS BY JAEGER-LECOULTRE FOR A NEW SWISS QUALITY MOVEMENT LET'S TALK ACCUTRONS! AND FIRST QUALITY JOB CONVERSION. Overhauled with a 90% SIZES POSSIBLE. George Fruge' three-year (3) warranty on all labor SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. 251 Greenwich A venue MIKE'S CLOCK CLINIC ZAMORA Greenwich. Ct. 06830 1326 Stanford Street 280 PRESIDIO PLACE Tel: 203-661-0056 Santa Monica, CA 90404-2502 BUFFALO, NY 14221-3746 Established in 1982 & AWi Trained Fax: .203-661-0703 (716)633-6138 Please Call(310) 828-6707 Fax(716)633-7686 44 Horological Times/February 1995 CLASSIFIED ADS MURPHY'S CLOCK WHEEL & PINION CUTTING FREE CROSSING OUT! CRYSTAL SERVICE 2-WEEK TURNAROUND ON MOST JOBS s~~,$;,~,%~:::;,~ i~I, 'ti FAST -- QUALITY WORK SEND FOR PRICE LIST. MC & VISA Timesavers ' I Box12700 " Ji ' • 24-hour turnaround on most jobs. Jim DuBois, 330 Rte. 101 Scottsdale, AZ 85267 ;~'! -: ·- , 602-483-3711 • • .::. • . ~ • Complete crystal fitting service Amherst, NH 03031 (603) 673-3645 L-~~~~~~-1...::~~-~-~~ ~ for new and old wrist and pocket watches. CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST FAX or PHONE (209) 576-8865 CLOCK REPAIR FOR SALE - 3 Vibrograf B200A timing 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. Quality repair or restoration of mechanical instrumentss, $750 each. Dewey Clark (410) MODESTO, CA 95355 clocks. Fast, friendly service. All work guaran 592-3617. teed. Call or send SASE for free price list, (904) 386-5498. Fax available. Jeff Hamilton, 2656 Byron Circle, Tallahassee, FL 32308. NEW FLOOR CLOCKS Howard Miller and Ridgeway floor clocks, from REPIVOTING-balance staffs, pinions, arbors 50-63% off. Howard Miller wall clocks, up to for wrist and pocket watches. Do not replace CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, 53%off. Mel Taylor,ATimetoRemember,P.O. original parts, let us repivot to manufacturer re bushing. REPAIRING: timers, aircraft clocks, Box 1007,Nashville, IN 47448.1-800-267-7756 standards.JuliuszDabrowski,J.D. Watchworks pocket watches. ROYH. NIEGEL, CMC, CMW, or (812) 988-8463. Co., 210 Post St., Suite 506, San Francisco, CA N31552 Saint Joe Drive, Spirit Lake, Idaho 94108; Phone: (415) 397-0310, Fax: (415) 397- 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330. 0601. MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed lowest prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guar antee. Large selection of hands and numerals. WATCH REPAIR - Quality, guaranteed, fast Free delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. service, on quartz, Accutrons and mechanicals. HALL CLOCKSHOP, 1512 Central Ave., Char Custom crystal fitting available, in shop. No ARJfCLES FOR SALE lotte, NC 28205. customer too small. Price list available. Contact 11 11 Charles Bunkelmann, 424 S. Silverbrook Dr., West Bend, WI 53095. Phone ( 414) 338-3770, Watchmakers tools, equipment, & supplies. Fax(414) 334-0677. Complete contents of repair shop. All modern CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD and in excellent condition. Call for details. CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL Vallejo, CA. (707) 554-1296. Save time, money, and work re-covering THE MORTICIAN bellows. Easier than replacing. For infor NO COMEBACKS mation, send business-size SASE to: Ro lex Certified Master Watchmaker and Atmos USED WATCH MOVEMENTS. H. HERB & JANDi GOGGIN Clock Service (factory recommended for over SON, 908 RIVA RIDGE DR., GREAT FALLS, Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 50 years). Watch wheel repivoting, quartz con VA 22066; (703) 549-8045. versions. Servicing all makes, antiques, high grade, etc. 2-yearwarranty. J. Small, CMW & Associates; (713) 561-5147. Schohl Machine Inc. CLOCKand MUSIC BOXparts, mainsprings, material and tools. Custom made to order or repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog COMPLETE CRYSTAL MAKING SYSTEM $3.00. TANIENGINEERING, Box 338,Atwater, OH44201; (216) 947-2268. WE'RE OFFERING A "COMBO" SPECIAL! ARE YOU SPENDING TOO MUCH FOR Both Machines CRYSTALS?? We will make any flat mineral or heavy plastic crystal. One-day turnaround. CUTTER & Call or write for price list. D & H Crystal Co., GRINDER 708-D Westchester Dr., High Point, NC 27262; Plus 100 FREE phone/fax (910) 889-0148. Crystal Blanks Shipping Free ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE We are Factory Authorized Service for: $995.00 • VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP * TICK-0-PRINT & L&R We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate WE ALSO SELL CRYSTAL BLANKS! recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. THICKNESSES: 1.3 mm 1 mm .09 mm .08 mm .07 mm 50¢ ea. JACK PHILLIPS ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE VISA & MASTERCARD ACCEPTED 757 Lincoln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901 P.O. Box 406 208 Barber Street Spring Lake, Ml 49456 For Information Call (415) 453-9266 Phone (616) 842-6025 Fax (616) 842-2198 Horological Times/February 1995 45 CLASSIFIED ADS A complete selection of ARTICLES FOR SALE spare parts for the II ii Golden Hour Clock The Golden Hour Clock Co. 7745 East Redfield Road #500 Scottsdale, AZ. 85260 TIMING MACHINES 602-483-3711 Experienced WATCH BA'ITERIES WATCHMAKERS •••• Sony- Maxell, from 25¢ each. For price list call For our expanding Dallas-Ft. Jose(619)662-2358. Worth Airport Service Center. Competitive benefit package "TIMETRAX600Wrist & PocketWatch Timer: offered; salary commensurate Measures & displays watch trains in vibrations BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! with experience. Please send per hour, calculates gain or loss in sec/day. Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC, resume or letter of interest, Over 40 preprogrammed trains: 7200-36000/ H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. including salary history, to : hr. Highly stable TCXOtimebase. Complete w/ Cartier, Inc., Box 610508, DFW watch holder & pickups ...... $595 Airport, TX 75261-0508; (214) 574-1686. *TIMETRAX 400 Clock Timer: Measures & displays clock trains in vibrations per hour. An equal opportunity Extended timing range for 400-day & Atmos Ii BUSINESSES FOR SALE II employer. clocks. Balance mode aids in setting move- ment in beat. Complete w/pickup ...... $395 *TIMETRAX 160 ClockTimer/BeatAmplifier. COMPLETE WATCH REPAIR SHOP plus all Battery powered, portable, direct train readout tools and $50,000 inventory. Call (502) 425- of beats per hour 100-19999, and new digital 9981. balance mode. Complete w/pickup ...... $159 II SITUATIG>NS WANTED II All units made in USA, 1 yr. warranty, complete with instructions & reference tables. Send 3 stamps for info & our Catalog of Horological CERTIFIED WATCHMAKER seeking employ Literature & Timing Machines. HELP WANTED ment in Southern or West Central Florida. 30 ~ Adams Brown Co., Box 1, Cranbury NJ Ii II years experience in sales and service of fine -~ 08512 (609) 655-8269 Fax 655·8102 watches. Call Dan (813) 963-5369. WATCHMAKERS for Harrisburg, PA, Balti more, MD, and Warwick, RI areas to work in large department store for rapidly expanding EQUIPMENT: 18 Drawers from GS cylinder company. Salary+ Bonus. Call Bob (510) 735- crystal cabinet, OVER 1000 CRYSTALS! $100 1128 or fax resume to (510) 735-7405. SCHOOLS +ship. Watch cleaning machines: Watchmaster Ii ii Mark V, $1195; Bulova VClO, $695; Watch master Mark ll, $695; L&R Console lfltrasonic, WATCHMAKER City College of San Francisco Watch Repair $395; Watchmaster WT, $350; Marshall 4-jar, We are seeking an experienced watchmaker Training since 1938. In order to speak with the $99.95; Vibrograf watch timing macbines: B- interested in working for a start up watch Instructor and at the same time register for the 200A, $895; B-200, $795. Bestfit 1986 micro repair center. Must be familiar with quartz class: Voice Mail (415) 731-0621. Open enroll fiche system with viewer, $300. Send SASE for watches. Person will be responsible for repair ment throughout the semester. 106 Bartlett our new 1995 equipment & hand tool list. ing watches in our Shelton Repair Center. The St., Room214, San Francisco, CA94110. When Watches Etc., 5934 NW 39th, Oklahoma City, ideal candidate will have attended school for writing for information: CCSF Watch Repair OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. watchmaking plus have applicable job experi Instructor, 2425 Yorba St., San Francisco, CA ence. We offer a competitive salary plus an 94116. excellent benefit package. Please send resume L&R Varimatic Ultrasonic watch cleaning ma and salary in confidence to: chine (2). Excellent condition. Ken Waldhorn, Director of Human Resources (810) 399-3067. The Forschner Group, Inc. JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL One Research Drive 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377 Shelton, CT 06484 Phone(718)424-2929 HAMILTON MILITARY MATERIAL.Many Equal Opportunity Employer parts availablefor992B, 4992B, M23 , M22 deck Quality Instruction Since 1945 watch, M21 marine chronometer, brass hard ware for boxes. Robert Ravel Co., Box 32, De WATCHMAKING von, PA 19333. Phone (610) 644-4272. r-MONEY- - MONEY - MONEv, (17months) I WATCH REPAIR PEOPLE I WATCH REPAIR Swiss maker of all kinds of cutters, Guye SA I Has your salary doubled in the last 3 years? I (9 and 13 months) Fleurier catalog on request. For more informa I Are you losing income? I JEWELRY DESIGN & REPAIR tion write or call: J ean Fischer, 3920 Green I Up to $52,000+ per year I Point Ave., Sunnyside, L.I.C., NY 11104; (718) Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation 729-1785. L _ _:i::s:_c! (~O~~g!~ _ .J 46 Horological Times/February 1995 I CLASSIFIED ADS WANTED TO BUY WANTED Watches Wanted II ii • Watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron, Lecoultre, IWC, Etc. Also Buying Low Grades--Gold-Filled & Gold WANTED: CHRONOGRAPH MOVE (Hamilton, Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Etc.) MENTS. Will pay: Valjoux 88 & 69, $300; 72C, • Sterling & Plated Trays, Dishes, Service $150; 72 & 23, $125; 22, $75; 7733, $40; Venus Sets, Etc. 140 & 178, $100; 150, $50; split 179, $1500; • Scrap--Gold-Filled, Gold, Silver, Platinum, Longines 13ZN & 13.33, $350; Movado 90 & 95, Watch Batteries (Silver or Mixed) $350; Universal, $100-$1000; repeater move We desperately need our retail ments, $100-$2000; Rolex movements, $100- customers' fine watches by: $500. Will pay more for complete watches. Also i~ZLL FREE 1-800-426-2344 want cases, dials, parts. Dean Sarnelle, 25 W. SPECIALTY METALS Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401; Phone and Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Fax (703) 885-6064. REFINING COMPANY Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, 1O Bay Street Gubelin, etc. Westport, CT 06880 OMEGA wristwatches & chronographs, Members: Better BusinessBureau We are paying top prices for any high Longines chronographs. Call Matt 1-800-933- Jewelers Board of Trade quality, unusual or complicated 5562. Ron Fried, President Our 11 Bth Consecutive Ad Wrist or Pocket Watches When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch WANTED: High-grade electro-mechanical We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any clocks, literature, and parts. Elliot Siegel, 930 amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, Call Us Toll Free 1-800-842-8625 Broadway, Wassapequis, NY 11758; (516) 541- silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment In Texas 1-214-902-0664 2400. return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King Always prompt immediate payment! St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. Wingate's Quality Watches WANTED: Escape wheel for a Looping Model P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 51 travel clock. Also wanted, a 19AS Longines movement. Call (704) 877-4010. WANTED: Will pay up to $500 for Rolex Easy Opener. Also need Rolex crystal press and Rolex movements, cases, dials, etc. We also buy watch ALL WATCHES WANTED!!! makers tools and equipment, pocket watches, RETIRING, RETIRED, OR OTHERWISE. Buy Breitling, Hamilton, Rolex, Movado, LeCoultre, and wristwatches. Single items or complete ing watchmaker's large or small accumulations Illinois, chronos, moonphases, asymmetricals, collections. Watches Etc., 5934 N.W. 39th, of tools, materials, etc. Will travel east of the railroads, etc. in any condition. Also buying Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. Mississippi. Ken Waldhorn, (810) 399-3067. parts from any of the above or what have you. Derek Molnor, Vintage Time of Pgh., 1100 Rear 7th St. #1, New Kensington, PA 15068; (412) 335-2320, Fax (412) 335-8096. AWi MATERIAL SEARCH NETWORK ANYTHING ILLINOIS Want to buy Illinois wristwatches, dials, move ments and cases (complete or parts) in any EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work in conjunction with the condition for avid private collector. Please call A WI Movement Bank. There is a fee of $5 .00 or the donation of a complete 800-421-1968, x5520, Fax 714-725-9787 or mail to Fred Friedberg, c/o TAMS, P.O. Box 2068, movement for this service. We prefer the donation of a complete movement. If Tustin, CA 92681-2068. you can supply any of the items listed here, please send details to the Material Search Network. Do not send the items. Members requesting these items will be advised of their availability and will contact you directly. WANTED: WATCH PARTS, MOVEMENTS & RELATED MATERIAL Material House searching for parts, movements, 2Al Universal Geneve Chronograph Case for Caliber 287 Universal etc. Small assortments to entire supply houses. Movement; stainless steel, gold or gold filled Please call Joe Griffin at Griffin Watch Co. 5 South Mast St., Goffstown, NH 03045 (603) 497-2624 2A2 Longines 350 Balance Complete 2A6 Pulsar 4300 LED needs module number 104 r.------,Having Technical Problems? 1 1 If you can supply any of these items, please contact: A WI Material Search Call the AWi Hotline I Network, A WI Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 IL------.J 513-661-4636 Horological Times/February 1995 47 IAWI BUILDING UPDATE! Ad Index By Charles Cleves, Building Committee Chairman American Perfit Crystal Corp ...... 37 Construction of AWI's new headquarters building con tinues to progress on schedule. As of December 28th, crews were literally working day and night to get the concrete Blue Ridge Machinery ...... l - slab poured. The concrete had begun to flow, so the slab would be ready for the steel shipment when it arrived in early January. Borel ...... 5 Our clock tower will be built soon as well. The foun dation has been poured. The brick has been ordered, and Butterworth Clocks ...... 10 the masons are waiting for its delivery. Because the tower is expected to be completed very quickly, I hope to give you your first look at it next month. Cas-Ker ...... inside back cover Don't forget to write to AWI Central for your pre registration packet for next year's annual meeting June 23 - 25 at the Drawbridge Estates in Cincinnati. The dedication Clocks ...... 13 and grand opening of your new world headquarters building will be on Friday, June 23. All members are welcome. If you are interested in attending this monumental celebration, please Esslinger ...... inside front cover write to AWI Central and ask for the annual meeting pre registration packet. Just send in the form on this month's Eveready ...... 7 Horological Times envelope. All who will attend, including board members and affiliate chapter delegates, are being asked to send for the pre-registration packet as soon as possible. Kaben Enterprises ...... 43 This will help the 35th Anniversary Committee plan for the weekend's events. 0 S. LaRose, Inc ...... 15 Livesay's, Inc ...... 19 McCaw ...... 3 Newall Mfg ...... 4.> The concrete floor, ready for steel beams. S&G Industries ...... 23 Twin City Supply ...... 25 United Tool and Material Co ...... 9 Vibrograf ...... 23 What-i-use ...... 11 The clock tower foundation. Witschi ...... ~ ...... 17 48 Horological Times/February 1995 " ~ GENERIC Case Tubes to fit Ro/ex GENERIC 5.3& 6.0mm GENERIC Crystal 0 Sapphire Assortment $6° ea Crystals Includes Gasket to fit Ro/ex to fit Ro/ex #CKXR12 @JD Made From Pink Sapphire Like The Original 12 Crystals GENERIC Clutch Wheel #300* fits Rolex 206C $60 to fit Ro/ex Includes generic $2995 replacements for 2130 these crystals: 1 - Tropic 12 $aoo #500* 1 - Cyclops 114 fits Rolex 295C 1 - Cyclops 116 2 - Cyclops 117 $J495 3 - Cyclops 118 GENERIC *Gaskets Available 1 - Cyclops 129 Stems 2 - Cyclops 135 GENERIC 1 - Cyclops 145 to fit Ro/ex Case Back Refills $550ea 3035 3135 Gaskets We Have MOST 1570 1210 To fit OR 325-10, Plastic Crystals 00 210-74, 214-64, 302-86 to fit Ro/ex ss ea $JOOea as- ~er Co. is independant of and is not affiliated w ith or sponsored by Rolex Watch U.S.A. Inc. olex warranty does not apply to non-genuine replacement items supplied by Cas-Ker. GROVE AVENUE PO BOX 14069 CINCINNATI OH 45259.- 1995 AWi BENCH COURSES To register for these courses, please send with your request a registration fee of $50.00 per instruction day (A WI members) to: AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the EARLIEST POSTMARKS. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, signature, and phone number. FAX (513) 661-3131 -- INFORMATION (513) 661- 3838 FEBRUARY1995 APRIL1995 10-13 Lathe Course (Phase III) Austin, TX 1-2 Basic Pocket Watch Repair Raleigh, NC 11-12 Repair of the Atmos Clock Phoenix, AZ 22-23 Cuckoo Clock Repair Raleigh, NC 12 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair San Francisco, CA 22-23 400-Day Clock Repair Savannah, GA 25-26 400-Day Clock Repair Baltimore, MD 29-30 Repair of the Atmos Clock Sault Ste. Marie, MI MARCH1995 MAY1995 4-5 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Oakland, CA 6-7 Hairspring Vibrating Philadelphia, PA 5 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair Raleigh, NC 12-14 Mechanical Watch Repair Denver, CO 10-13 Lathe Course (Phase III) Denver, CO 11-12 Basic Pocket Watch Repair Austin, TX JUNE1995 25-26 Hairspring Vibrating Springfield, IL 3-4 Cuckoo Clock Repair Minneapolis, MN 25-26 Introduction to Clock Repair Raleigh, NC * Held in conjunction with a convention COURSES & INSTRUCTORS Introduction to Clock Repair Striking Clocks Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW John Nagle Advanced Clock Repair Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair The Watch/Clockmakers Lathe Course Roland Iverson, CMC Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Roy Hovey Phase I: Basic Theory, Tools and Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Mechanical Chronographs Accessories for the Robert Bishop, CMEW James Lubic Watch/Clockmakers Lathe Phase II: Making Wheels, Function Basic Pocket Watch Mechanical Watch Repair Control Arbors and Lantern Alice Carpenter, CMW, CMEW James Lubic Pinions Phase III: Making Staffs, Jewel Settings Cuckoo Clock Repair Modem Mechanical Chronographs for Watches and Marine James Williams, CC Remy Waelchli Chronometers, Turning Between Centers, and the Jacot 400-Day Clock Repair Repair of the Atmos Clock Tool John Nagle Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FA WI Phase IV: Making Wheels/Pinions and Use of the Pivot Polishing Hairspring Vibrating Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Accessory Joseph Cerullo, CMW, CMC James Broughton, CMEW, FA WI 1995 A WI PROJECT EXTEND CLASSES Project Extend classes are held in Cincinnati, OH. To register for these courses, please send with your request a registration fee of$50.00 per instruction day (AWi members) to: AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, signature, and phone number. FAX (513) 661-3131 INFORMATION (513) 661-3838 FEBRUARY 1995 MAY1995 6-10 Beginning Horology James Lubic 1-5 Watch II (Staffing & Lever Escapement) James Lubic 13-17 Machine Shop Practices Ron DeCorte 8-12 Clock I (Beginning Clock Repair) Jim LaChapelle 15-19 Clock Case Repair Jim Williams MARCH1995 20-Apr. 1 Lathe Course (12 days) Roy Hovey JUNE1995 5-9 Quartz I (Meter Reading, etc.) Gerald Jaeger APRIL1995 12-16 Quartz II (Advanced Quartz) Bob Bishop 24-28 Watch I (American Pocket Watches) Alice Carpenter