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Haircutting Learning Objectives

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Haircutting Learning Objectives Chapter 16 Haircutting Learning Objectives • Identify the reference points on the head and understand their role in haircutting. • Define lines, sections, elevations, and guidelines. • List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. • Explain the uses of the various tools of haircutting. • Name three things you can do to ensure good posture and body position while cutting hair. (continues) Learning Objectives (continued) • Perform the four basic haircuts. • List the multiple ways to section and cut the bang (fringe) area. • Discuss and explain three different texturizing techniques performed with shears. • Explain a clipper cut. • Identify the uses of a trimmer. Introduction • Foundational skills start with being educated in the principles of haircutting and precision haircutting methods. • Precision haircutting is about the application of a systematic plan when cutting hair • When it is combined with the principles of haircutting, you will have a better understanding of how to approach any haircut. • However, first you must know the rules before you break them. You will need to have an understanding of the techniques and tools of cutting. Understand the Basic Principles of Haircutting • Reference points – Parietal ridge – Occipital bone (continues) Understand the Basic Principles of Haircutting (continued) • Apex • Four corners Areas of the Head • Top • Front • Sides • Crown • Nape • Back • Bang area Lines, Sections, and Angles • Lines • Types of Straight Lines (continues) • Straight Lines Straight – – – Diagonal Vertical Horizontal Lines, Sections, and Angles Lines,Sections, and Used with the permission of the authors, Martin Gannon and Richard Thompson, as featured in their book Mahogany: Steps to Cutting, Colouring and Finishing hair. © Martin Gannon and Richard Thompson 1997. (continued) © Flora Borsi/Shutterstock.com © EvaStory/Shutterstock.com (continues) Lines, Sections, and Angles (continued) • Sectioning – Horseshoe section – Pivoting section – Profile section – Radial section Elevation • Elevation – angle at which hair is held from head • Graduation – layers described in degrees • Shrinkage – hair contracts as it dries Cutting Line • Cutting line – angle at which fingers are held when cutting Guidelines • Stationary guideline – does not move • Traveling guideline – moves as haircut progresses Overdirection • Comb the hair away from its natural falling position. • Used mostly in graduated and layered haircuts. Conduct an Effective Client Consultation for Haircutting • What does client want? • Does she have time available for maintenance? • What is his or her lifestyle? • Is classic or trendy preferred? The Face Shape • Pull hair back or wrap with towel. • Note length and width of face. • Note balance of features. • Weight and volume. • Profiles. • Determine parting. Hair Analysis • Hairlines and growth patterns • Hair density – hairs per square inch • Hair texture – diameter of a hair strand • Wave pattern – amount of movement in the hair strand Show Proper use of Haircutting Tools • Haircutting and • Straight razor texturizing shears (continues) Show Proper Use of Haircutting Tools (continued) • Clippers • Trimmers • Sectioning clips • Wide-tooth comb • Tail comb • Barber comb • Styling/cutting comb All About Shears • Steel – Gauging hardness – Rockwell hardness • Cast shears • Forged shears Parts of a Shear • Cutting edge • Pivot • Adjustment knob • Finger tang • Ring-finger hole • Thumb hole Shear Maintenance • Daily cleaning and lubrication • Daily tension adjustment and balancing • Weekly cleaning and lubrication • Disinfecting shears • Sharpening shears Left-Handed vs. Right-Handed • There is a difference between a right-handed and a left-handed shear. Simply taking a right- handed shear and turning it over does not make it appropriate for a left-handed cutter, because the blades of the shear need to be reversed. Purchasing Shears • Know how the shear was manufactured. • Ask about the steel quality. • Decide on the right blade edge. • Decide on the best handle design for you. • Be sure of fit. (continues) Purchasing Shears (continued) • Hold shears in hand. • Swivel thumb shears. • Learn about service agreement. • Ask about warranty. • Analyze cost. • Determine how many needed. Fitting the Shear Correctly • Fitting ring finger • Fitting thumb • Relaxing grip • Correct finger position and alignment Holding Your Tools • Holding shears Holding the Shears and Comb Holding the Razor • Method A – Open razor so handle is higher than shank. – Place thumb on thumb grip. – Place index, middle, and ring fingers on shank. – Place little finger in tang. – Position razor on top of subsection. (continues) Holding the Razor (continued) • Method B – Open razor so handle and shank form a straight line. – Place thumb on grip and wrap fingers around handle. Handling the Comb and Tension • Both the wide and fine teeth of the comb are regularly used when cutting hair. • The wide teeth are used for combing and parting hair, while the finer teeth comb the section before cutting. • Tension is the amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a subsection. Understand Proper Posture and Body Position • Position the client. – Sitting straight – Legs not crossed • Center your weight. – Knees slightly bent, not locked – Bend one knee to lean slightly • Stand in front of section being cut. Hand Positions for Different Cutting Angles • Cutting over fingers • Cutting below fingers • Cutting palm-to-palm Maintain Safety in Haircutting • Palm shears. • Do not cut past second knuckle. • Take care around ears. • Be careful when working with a razor. Cut Hair using Basic Haircutting Techniques Blunt haircut • Also known as a Salonand Vanis one-length haircut. for • Hair comes to a single Donnelli hanging level, forming a weight line. IN.Makeup Malone Amyby and Gretchen Wilson. Scheveville Photography by Tom Carson, Hair by Laura Laura by Photography Carson,Hair Tom by Spa,Day Graduated Haircut • Build up of weight. • Caused by cutting the hair with tension, low to , hair stylist for Above medium elevation, or Morosi overdirection. • The ends of the hair appear to be stacked. Photography by Tom Carson. Hair by Antonioby Photography Carson.Hair Tom by and Beyond Salon, Vermillion,Ohio. Laura Hall,Color for Above and Beyond Salon,Vermillion, Ohio. Hall. Laura Makeupby Layered Haircut • The hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees. • Layered haircuts generally have less weight than graduated Salon e' Spa, haircuts. Carmen • In a layered haircut, the for Carmen Charlotte, NC ends appear farther Carmen by Photography Carson,Hair Tom by Cutrona apart. Long-Layered Haircut • Gives more volume to hairstyles. • Can be combined with other basic haircuts. • The resulting shape will have shorter layers at the top and increasingly longer layers toward the perimeter. Photography by Tom Carson General Haircutting Tips • Partings • Lines and sections • Crown and neck area • Around the ears • Tension • Head position • Moisture (continues) General Haircutting Tips (continued) • Guideline • Cross check • Use the mirror • Check both sided • Stand in front of your section • Curly hair The Blunt Haircut Procedure • Precision haircut • Head position • Elevation • Tension Other Blunt Haircuts • A-line • Longer blunt haircut • Blunt haircut on curly hair Gramly /Chris iStockphoto © • Basic haircut that works with a side or middle ormiddle part. aside with works that haircut Basic Graduated Haircut © iSotckphoto/Nadeika Graduated Haircut Procedure • Versatile Haircut • Stationary and traveling guide used • Hair Texture • Neck line • Tension Uniform-Layered Haircut • Uniform layers © © Stock Avalanche/Shutterstock.com Uniform-Layered Haircut Procedure • Interior traveling guideline • Shape • Length • Vertical sections reduce weight Long-Layered Haircut • Volume • Texture and density • Traveling or stationary guideline • Length Long-Layered Haircut Procedure • Length • Length in top sections Understand other Cutting Techniques Cutting Curly Hair • Shrinks more than straight hair • Minimal tension (wide-tooth comb) • Naturally “graduates” itself • Expands more than Global Yellow by Strawberry Photography Carson,Hair Tom by Salon, Sarasota, FL. straight hair Cutting the Bangs • The bang or fringe area includes the hair that lies between the two front corners. • Be sure the hair is either damp or completely dry. • Do not use tension, allow for the natural lift of the hair. • The five basic types of fringe. Asymmetric Bang (Fringe) • Start by placing an offset triangular section of hair at each corner of the eye. • Take a 1/2-inch (1.25 centimeters) subsection at the narrowest part of the offset triangle, elevate at 90 degrees, and cut 2–3 inches (5–7.5 centimeters) (or longer) in length—this will become a stationary guide. • Continue taking 1/2-inch (1.25 centimeters) subsections, elevate to 90 degrees, and overdirect to the stationary guide or, for thick hair, overdirect to the previously cut section. • Finish by blowdrying with a flat brush or comb. Using your comb for precision and angle, cut to desired length. Side Swept Bang © dinkat/Shutterstock.com© Versatile Bang Versatile © iStock.com/impulseglamour Short Textured Bang ShortTextured © iStock.com/Ploter Square Bang © Mayer Mayer © George/Shutterstock.com Razor Cutting • Gives a softer appearance than a shear cut. • The razor is a great option when working with medium to fine hair textures. • When working with a razor, the ends are cut at an angle and the line is not blunt. • This
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