Dr Shave’s Book of Shaving Shaving Tools The expert guide to the world of shaving Shaving Tools Introduction Here Dr Shave takes you through the myriad of shaving razors, cartridge, safety, and cut throat and if you want to know what the difference is between the various grades of badger hair shaving brushes read on. 2 Shaving Tools Shaving Tools Razors Advances in razor technology changed If you opt to try out a straight razor do shaving habits in the 20th century. ensure that you receive basic instruction Razors come in many forms and in its use and that the razor feels each have their advantages and In 1900, most men were either shaved by ‘comfortable’ in your hand. These days disadvantages. Once you have finished the local barber, or periodically at home we have the benefit of YouTube. reading this chapter you should be able when required, rather than regularly. to purchase with confidence a razor that It may take many shaves before you will be the best one for you. Straight / Cut Throat Razor Material can consider yourself a cut throat razor wizard. This is your razor. There are many like it In general, the blades of straight razors but this one is yours. are made of steel; the more recent razors Please note: A cut-throat razor must be have blades made from stainless steel. used with extreme caution. History The manufacturer’s markings are often found engraved or etched on the blades Ancient Romans and Grecians used iron which may include the model number or blades with a long handle and developed name of the razor. the shape of the cut-throat razor which was the only practical razor until the The handles of straight razors are made 19th century. from all sorts of different materials, including wood, rubber, horn, ivory, Improvements in steel manufacturing Bakelite, ivory, and metal. Inlays can enabled cut throat razor blades to be be of mother of pearl, silver, gold, made sharper and for the first time, they stainless steel, copper, ivory, wood could be re-sharpened. and tortoiseshell. 3 Shaving Tools The types of razors available include: How to Look After a Cut Throat Razor Straight or ‘cut throat’ razors Disposable blade straight razors, The cut throat or straight razor must be usually known as Shavette’s properly maintained in order to ensure Double edged safety razors the long life and effectiveness of this Mach 3 razors traditional men’s accessory. While straight Fusion razors razors made of stainless steel are less Electric razors. demanding, other straight razors have to be rinsed with water and thoroughly dried Straight or Cut Throat Razors after each use. The straight-edge razor is also known as Make sure your razor is thoroughly dried the cut-throat razor because, if misused, and aired before storing. it is capable of cutting the throat. When not in use for longer periods, it A cut throat razor has a single straight is recommended that the blade of the blade that is attached to a handle (the straight razor be rubbed with light oil handles on cut throat razors are known as such as Muhle’s Razor Maintenance Oil. scales) by a hinge and is stored by folding it edge-first into a slot in the handle of Maintaining the Cutting Edge the razor. Experienced cut throat users know Shaving with a cut throat razor or straight Cut throat razor and strop that the facet (blade) ‘grows’, i.e. the razor is considered by many shaving microscopically fine ‘fin’ on the cutting traditionalists as the very best way edge changes during the shave but returns to shave. to its old position afterwards; it stretches and again becomes extremely fine. 4 Shaving Tools The ‘fin’ will wear away at some stage abrasive paste and - for a final polishing and a suitable strop should then be used. on a separate strop - with polishing paste, which is worked in with a clean How to strop: A strop is a strip of special soft leather cotton cloth. with a hanging loop at one end used to With a flat angle lay the back whet (sharpen) the blade. Usually a strop Straight razors are usually whetted in the of the razor on the strop will have two sides; one made from fine factory for use (whetting on leather by Draw the blade along the leather, the other from coarse leather. hand). If you ‘strop’ yourself, you must strop, away from the body Other strops may have fine leather and first ‘rest’ the razor after use. Turn the razor over on its either denim, linen or a fabric similar to back and draw it in towards car seat belt material. After the razor has been carefully rinsed the body and dried, it should not be used again for Note: Changing directions If required, the fine leather side can be at least 24 – 48 hours because the fine without turning the razor over rubbed with an extremely thin layer of fine ‘fin’ on the cutting edge straightens up makes the blade become again extremely slowly. round (crowned) so that the cutting properties are lost If the razor is stropped too soon (or In this case, only re-sharpening stropped incorrectly by moving it with a hone can help. backwards and forwards without turning it over), the ‘fin’ which is necessary for a close shave breaks off. Between four and fifteen shaves are possible without stropping in between depending on your beard growth, the quality of the razor and your stropping technique. 5 Shaving Tools Disposable Blade Straight Razors These are razors which are similar in use Tips and appearance to straight razors but which use either a standard double edged Store straight razors in a well- dampened with either ethyl blade or specially made custom blades. ventilated, dry environment alcohol or rubbing alcohol - this Keep straight razors out of water will help to de grease the blade Many razors of this type are referred and away from liquids as much Apply a thin coat of Muhle’s to as ‘Shavette’s’ although this name as possible Razor Maintenance Oil; let it sit was originally restricted to a razor Do not clean with bleach, for a short while (10 minutes, or manufactured by Dovo in Germany. ammonia or detergents as these so) and then wipe the excess oil substances can cause damage off using a clean, dry cloth. This Disposable bladed straights have many of Metal polishes, such as Brasso, coating of oil will help prevent any the advantages of straight razors without Silvo, or Autosol should never further rusting needing the stropping and honing of be used Before you next use your razor ordinary straight razors. Many barbers If the blade is exceptionally dull or rub the blade with alcohol or at worldwide use Shavette razors for nicked, the use of a honing stone least warm soapy water to remove shaving customers. is recommended the oil and again after use to clean Use a leather razor strop to the blade maintain a keen edge - you know Use Muhle’s Razor Maintenance you’re getting close when you can Oil to re-oil the blade after use, as cleanly slice a piece of paper with well as after sharpening. your razor Be careful not to get any alcohol Clean the entire surface of or oil on the handle. the blade with a cotton cloth 6 Shaving Tools Feather Cut Throat Razors Advantages: A speedy shave. These beautiful razors are made in Japan Disadvantages: Too many to list in their using hard grade materials; they use entirety but here are a few: Feather injector blades which you replace when they dull. They don’t shave closely Expensive to buy These razors are very popular as they They tend to push the hairs into the deliver a shave comparable with a skin which can lead to ingrown hairs traditional cut throat razor but without the They pull and tug the hairs leading to need for stropping or honing. irritation They often result in razor bump and This is 21st century shaving for those razor burn who want a close yet hassle free shave Encourages ingrown hairs, razor with a cut throat razor. bumps and razor burn. Dr. Shave now recommends these razors Dr Shave is not a fan of electric razors! above traditional cut throat razors. Safety Razors Electric Razor Initially, a safety razor will cost more than Safety razors The electric razor (also known as the one of its modern Mach3 and Fusion electric dry shaver) has a rotating or type counterparts. However, in the long oscillating blade. It does not require the run a safety razor will prove itself to be a average about three times the price of a use of shaving cream, soap or water, with cheaper alternative. pack of ten safety razor blades that will the razor being battery or mains powered. last over three months! On that basis it’s A pack of four Fusion razor cartridges, not hard to see how safety razor shaving enough for about a month, costs on will benefit your pocket in the long run. 7 Shaving Tools Safety Razor Shaving These cartridges achieve their closeness skin and with fewer strokes. The huge Benefits the Environment by stretching the skin with a layer of investment in research and development rubberised ‘micro fins’, then by lifting has resulted in a razor that makes the Firstly, you’ll use three times less razor the hair and slicing it off at a point closest shave more comfortable, with less cartridges by using a safety razor; slightly below the surface of the skin.