Dr Shave’s Book of Shaving Shaving Tools

The expert guide to the world of shaving Shaving Tools

Introduction

Here Dr Shave takes you through the myriad of shaving razors, cartridge, safety, and cut throat and if you want to know what the difference is between the various grades of badger hair shaving brushes read on.

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Shaving Tools

Razors Advances in razor technology changed If you opt to try out a straight razor do shaving habits in the 20th century. ensure that you receive basic instruction Razors come in many forms and in its use and that the razor feels each have their advantages and In 1900, most men were either shaved by ‘comfortable’ in your hand. These days disadvantages. Once you have finished the local barber, or periodically at home we have the benefit of YouTube. reading this chapter you should be able when required, rather than regularly. to purchase with confidence a razor that It may take many shaves before you will be the best one for you. Straight / Cut Throat Razor Material can consider yourself a cut throat razor wizard. This is your razor. There are many like it In general, the blades of straight razors but this one is yours. are made of steel; the more recent razors Please note: A cut-throat razor must be have blades made from stainless steel. used with extreme caution. History The manufacturer’s markings are often found engraved or etched on the blades Ancient Romans and Grecians used iron which may include the model number or blades with a long handle and developed name of the razor. the shape of the cut-throat razor which was the only practical razor until the The handles of straight razors are made 19th century. from all sorts of different materials, including wood, rubber, horn, ivory, Improvements in steel manufacturing Bakelite, ivory, and metal. Inlays can enabled cut throat razor blades to be be of mother of pearl, silver, gold, made sharper and for the first time, they stainless steel, copper, ivory, wood could be re-sharpened. and tortoiseshell.

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The types of razors available include: How to Look After a Cut Throat Razor ƒƒ Straight or ‘cut throat’ razors ƒƒ Disposable blade straight razors, The cut throat or straight razor must be usually known as Shavette’s properly maintained in order to ensure ƒƒ Double edged safety razors the long life and effectiveness of this ƒƒ Mach 3 razors traditional men’s accessory. While straight ƒƒ Fusion razors razors made of stainless steel are less ƒƒ Electric razors. demanding, other straight razors have to be rinsed with water and thoroughly dried Straight or Cut Throat Razors after each use.

The straight-edge razor is also known as Make sure your razor is thoroughly dried the cut-throat razor because, if misused, and aired before storing. it is capable of cutting the throat. When not in use for longer periods, it A cut throat razor has a single straight is recommended that the blade of the blade that is attached to a handle (the straight razor be rubbed with light oil handles on cut throat razors are known as such as Muhle’s Razor Maintenance Oil. scales) by a hinge and is stored by folding it edge-first into a slot in the handle of Maintaining the Cutting Edge the razor. Experienced cut throat users know Shaving with a cut throat razor or straight Cut throat razor and strop that the facet (blade) ‘grows’, i.e. the razor is considered by many shaving microscopically fine ‘fin’ on the cutting traditionalists as the very best way edge changes during the shave but returns to shave. to its old position afterwards; it stretches and again becomes extremely fine.

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The ‘fin’ will wear away at some stage abrasive paste and - for a final polishing and a suitable strop should then be used. on a separate strop - with polishing paste, which is worked in with a clean How to strop: A strop is a strip of special soft leather cotton cloth. with a hanging loop at one end used to ƒƒ With a flat angle lay the back whet (sharpen) the blade. Usually a strop Straight razors are usually whetted in the of the razor on the strop will have two sides; one made from fine factory for use (whetting on leather by ƒƒ Draw the blade along the leather, the other from coarse leather. hand). If you ‘strop’ yourself, you must strop, away from the body Other strops may have fine leather and first ‘rest’ the razor after use. ƒƒ Turn the razor over on its either denim, linen or a fabric similar to back and draw it in towards car seat belt material. After the razor has been carefully rinsed the body and dried, it should not be used again for ƒƒ Note: Changing directions If required, the fine leather side can be at least 24 – 48 hours because the fine without turning the razor over rubbed with an extremely thin layer of fine ‘fin’ on the cutting edge straightens up makes the blade become again extremely slowly. round (crowned) so that the cutting properties are lost If the razor is stropped too soon (or ƒƒ In this case, only re-sharpening stropped incorrectly by moving it with a hone can help. backwards and forwards without turning it over), the ‘fin’ which is necessary for a close shave breaks off.

Between four and fifteen shaves are possible without stropping in between depending on your beard growth, the quality of the razor and your stropping technique.

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Disposable Blade Straight Razors

These are razors which are similar in use Tips and appearance to straight razors but which use either a standard double edged ƒƒ Store straight razors in a well- dampened with either ethyl blade or specially made custom blades. ventilated, dry environment alcohol or rubbing alcohol - this ƒƒ Keep straight razors out of water will help to de grease the blade Many razors of this type are referred and away from liquids as much ƒƒ Apply a thin coat of Muhle’s to as ‘Shavette’s’ although this name as possible Razor Maintenance Oil; let it sit was originally restricted to a razor ƒƒ Do not clean with bleach, for a short while (10 minutes, or manufactured by Dovo in Germany. ammonia or detergents as these so) and then wipe the excess oil substances can cause damage off using a clean, dry cloth. This Disposable bladed straights have many of ƒƒ Metal polishes, such as Brasso, coating of oil will help prevent any the advantages of straight razors without Silvo, or Autosol should never further rusting needing the stropping and honing of be used ƒƒ Before you next use your razor ordinary straight razors. Many barbers ƒƒ If the blade is exceptionally dull or rub the blade with alcohol or at worldwide use Shavette razors for nicked, the use of a honing stone least warm soapy water to remove shaving customers. is recommended the oil and again after use to clean ƒƒ Use a leather razor strop to the blade maintain a keen edge - you know ƒƒ Use Muhle’s Razor Maintenance you’re getting close when you can Oil to re-oil the blade after use, as cleanly slice a piece of paper with well as after sharpening. your razor ƒƒ Be careful not to get any alcohol ƒƒ Clean the entire surface of or oil on the handle. the blade with a cotton cloth

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Feather Cut Throat Razors Advantages: A speedy shave.

These beautiful razors are made in Japan Disadvantages: Too many to list in their using hard grade materials; they use entirety but here are a few: Feather injector blades which you replace when they dull.  They don’t shave closely  Expensive to buy These razors are very popular as they  They tend to push the hairs into the deliver a shave comparable with a skin which can lead to ingrown hairs traditional cut throat razor but without the  They pull and tug the hairs leading to need for stropping or honing. irritation  They often result in razor bump and This is 21st century shaving for those razor burn who want a close yet hassle free shave  Encourages ingrown hairs, razor with a cut throat razor. bumps and razor burn.

Dr. Shave now recommends these razors Dr Shave is not a fan of electric razors! above traditional cut throat razors. Safety Razors Electric Razor Initially, a safety razor will cost more than Safety razors The electric razor (also known as the one of its modern Mach3 and Fusion electric dry shaver) has a rotating or type counterparts. However, in the long oscillating blade. It does not require the run a safety razor will prove itself to be a average about three times the price of a use of shaving cream, soap or water, with cheaper alternative. pack of ten safety razor blades that will the razor being battery or mains powered. last over three months! On that basis it’s A pack of four Fusion razor cartridges, not hard to see how safety razor shaving enough for about a month, costs on will benefit your pocket in the long run.

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Safety Razor Shaving These cartridges achieve their closeness skin and with fewer strokes. The huge Benefits the Environment by stretching the skin with a layer of investment in research and development rubberised ‘micro fins’, then by lifting has resulted in a razor that makes the Firstly, you’ll use three times less razor the hair and slicing it off at a point closest shave more comfortable, with less cartridges by using a safety razor; slightly below the surface of the skin. irritation, even when shaving against the therefore, there is less waste for you to It is this overzealous closeness that direction of hair growth. dispose of. Secondly, as safety razor causes many of today’s skin and blades are made of a single metal razor shaving problems as, if shaved too This applies to fresh blades; blades used blade, they can be easily recycled unlike closely, cut hair can grow painfully into more than 3-4 times will soon go blunt today’s modern razor cartridges that are a the upper layers of the epidermis. and not preform as Gillette claim. mixture of plastic and metal. Once the hair follicles begin to do this, Gillette Fusion Safety Razor Shaving Provides there is a high chance of causing ingrown Better, More Consistent Shaves hairs, razor bumps and razor burn. The Gillette fusion range represents the pinnacle of shaving and razor innovation Today’s modern razors and electric This problem is severely reduced and (according to Gillette). shavers are no match for a double-edged even removed altogether by shaving with safety razor. a good quality safety razor, leaving your The problem with these blades is that skin in excellent condition every time they are ridiculously expensive to buy as they cut hairs directly at the skin’s and they don’t maintain their edge surface. for more than a few shaves. One way around this problem is to extend the Gillette Mach 3 Shaving life of each blade by up to 150 shaves by using a RazorPit Blade Sharpener. The three bladed Mach 3 design was This cheap tool really does work introduced by Gillette to allow for a very and comes highly recommended by close shave with less pressure to the Executive Shaving.

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Luxury handcrafted handles can be made from fine materials such as ivory or even gold and can be designed to feel So, what are the benefits of well-balanced in the hand. The bristles using a shaving brush? are usually made of natural or synthetic materials. ƒƒ Creates a rich and extremely moist latherExfoliates the skin Why Use a Shaving Brush? ƒƒ Softens and lifts facial hair ƒƒ Allows for a closer, trouble-free Shaving brushes are used by shavers for shave a variety of reasons, but mainly for their Shaving Brushes ability to facilitate a close, comfortable Now that you’ve invested in a and enjoyable shave. shaving brush you’ll need to know Dr. Shave believes that of all the items how to look after it, to get the best associated with obtaining the perfect Fibrous bristles hold water and heat from it and keep it for several years shave, the brush is vitally important. which, when mixed with the shaving soap or shaving cream, creates a rich ƒƒ Rinse it well in clean water after Forget using your fingers to rub in and moist lather. Richer and moist each use shaving cream or soap; the only decent lather translates to better lubrication, ƒƒ Remove excess water by way of obtaining a good lather, exfoliating leading to less dragging and tugging ‘flicking’ it into the sink the skin and lifting the hairs in preparation which can lead to razor burn and ƒƒ Hang the brush, hair down, in a for the shave is by use of the brush. other skin complaints. suitable brush stand ƒƒ Avoid using HOT WATER, when The term shave brush or shaving brush Because a shaving brush is most often leathering up or cleaning your refers to an implement with bristles set used with a glycerine-based soap, this shaving brush, warm water is into a handle which is used to apply affects applying shaving cream by hand fine but never, ever hot water. shaving soap or shaving cream to the and causes the hair to matt or raises it face when shaving. unevenly, so I advise against it.

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Shaving Brush Bristles Many travel shaving brushes use  It has a higher water retention synthetic hair as synthetic hair dries capacity than synthetic bristles A shaving brush’s value is determined almost immediately.  But has a tendency to break more more by its bristle type and density than readily than synthetic bristle. any other factors. Prices for synthetic Synthetic bristles are generally cheaper bristle brushes are the cheapest whilst and tougher than natural bristles, The Badger hair bristles are the finest and most top-of-the-range brushes made of ‘New Generation’ of synthetic brushes luxurious material possible for shaving the finest badger hair are much more produced by Vulfix / Simpson and Muhle brushes. Among their advantages are: expensive. in particular are extremely soft on the face and do retain heat and water in much  An ideal water retention capacity Historically, well-to-do men would the same way a badger hair brush does.  They hold heat better than other types generally shave with a badger hair However, earlier versions and cheap of bristles brush, while commoners concerned import versions:  They create a superb lather with colloquially proper aesthetics would  Badger hair feels smooth on the face resort to cheaper versions made of boar  Hold less water than natural bristle  Durability has not been matched by or horse hair. brushes any other synthetic or natural material.  Take longer to work up a lather A shaving brush was known in Europe  And can feel rougher on the skin. Whilst some companies insist on using as something of a status symbol, an other terminology, these four grades expensive or eccentric brush was a way of Synthetic/natural bristles combine are commonly accepted among wet asserting one’s personality and affluence. boar’s hair with synthetic bristles in an shavers to best describe the quality attempt to improve the quality of the pure of badger hair: These days modern materials mean synthetic brush but this: that some synthetic brushes actually ƒƒ Pure Badger - Pure badger is the outperform badger brushes in many  Does not greatly affect the quality of term used to describe badger hair respects. lather produced brushes using the most common hair  And is often as stiff and ‘prickly’ as a from the underbelly of a badger. This synthetic bristle hair varies greatly in softness, pliability

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and colour. The hair is usually dark ƒƒ Silvertip Badger - Silvertip grade hair Nowadays, shaving brushes are very in colour, but fluctuates from a light comes from the back of the neck of similar in appearance, composition tan to near-black or silvery sheen. the badger. The hair is finer than other and function to their centuries-old It is generally coarser than ‘best’ or grades and it holds heat and water predecessors. ‘silvertip’ hair due to its larger shaft. better than all other grades. One way Brushes made exclusively with pure to determine if a brush bears a ‘super’ Although a variety of different materials badger hair cost significantly less than or ‘silvertip’ badger hair load is to look are still used to fashion shave brush ‘best’ and ‘super’ badger hair brushes. at the colour of the bristle tips. A true handles, synthetic handles of nylon, ‘silvertip’ brush has tips that are off- urethane or plastic are the most common ƒƒ Best Badger - Best badger brushes white. A ‘super’ brush on the other even amongst the most expensive are made with the fine and pliable hairs hand has bristle tips that are a more shaving brush manufacturers. of the badger’s body. It is longer in sterile, slightly greyed white. The light length and lighter in colour than ‘pure’ colour of the tips does not extend as The advantages of synthetic handles badger hair. A ‘best’ badger brush is far down the shaft of the hair. Silvertip include: more densely filled with hair than the hair is very soft on the face yet very ‘pure’ badger brush and will produce a durable too.  A lesser chance of breakage if dropped correspondingly greater lather.  More resistant to damage by moisture. Shaving Brush Handles ƒƒ Super Badger Hair - This grade of Some people still prefer natural materials hair is lighter in colour than Pure and The modern shaving brush may be such as wood or exotic materials such Best grades as it’s taken from the traced back to France in the 1750s. The as tortoise shell, but these articles are back of the badger where the hair is quality of these brushes differed greatly, more difficult to obtain and will be priced lighter compared to the head and belly. as materials used to fashion the handles accordingly. Usually Super grade hair has a black varied from the common to the exotic. coloured band midsection and whiter, The handle is modelled ergonomically, softer tips compared to Pure and Historically, it was not uncommon for allowing for a proper grip on the brush Best grades. handles to be made of ivory, gold, silver, and is designed to feel well-balanced in tortoise shell, crystal or porcelain. the hand.

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