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Machine Learning (Ml) for Tracking the Geo-Temporality of a Trend: Documenting the Frequency of the Baseball-Trucker Hat on Social Media and the Runway
MACHINE LEARNING (ML) FOR TRACKING THE GEO-TEMPORALITY OF A TREND: DOCUMENTING THE FREQUENCY OF THE BASEBALL-TRUCKER HAT ON SOCIAL MEDIA AND THE RUNWAY A Thesis Presented to the Faculty of the Graduate School of Cornell University In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts by Rachel Rose Getman May 2019 © 2019 Rachel Rose Getman ABSTRACT This study applied fine-grained Machine Learning (ML) to document the frequency of baseball-trucker hats on social media with images populated from the Matzen et al. (2017) StreetStyle-27k Instagram dataset (2013-2016) and as produced in runway shows for the luxury market with images populated from the Vogue Runway database (2000-2018). The results show a low frequency of baseball-trucker hats on social media from 2013-2016 with little annual fluctuation. The Vogue Runway plots showed that baseball-hats appeared on the runway before 2008 with a slow but steady annual increase from 2008 through 2018 with a spike in 2016 to 2017. The trend is discussed within the context of social, cultural, and economic factors. Although ML requires refinement, its use as a tool to document and analyze increasingly complex trends is promising for scholars. The study shows one implementation of high-level concept recognition to map the geo-temporality of a fashion trend. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH Rachel R. Getman holds a bachelor’s degree in Anthropology from the University of California at Los Angeles (UCLA). Her interests lie in the intersection of arts and sciences through interdisciplinary collaboration. The diversification of her professional experience from the service industry, education, wardrobe styling, apparel production, commercial vocals, and organic agriculture influence her advocacy for holistic thinking and non-linear problem solving. -
MPC MAJOR RESEARCH PAPER Why My Dad Is Not Dangerously
MPC MAJOR RESEARCH PAPER Why My Dad Is Not Dangerously Regular: Normcore and The Communication of Identity Brittney Brightman Professor Jessica Mudry The Major Research Paper is submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Professional Communication Ryerson University Toronto, Ontario, Canada August 2015 AUTHOR'S DECLARATION I hereby declare that I am the sole author of this Major Research Paper and the accompanying Research Poster. This is a true copy of the MRP and the research poster, including any required final revisions, as accepted by my examiners. I authorize Ryerson University to lend this major research paper and/or poster to other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I further authorize Ryerson University to reproduce this MRP and/or poster by photocopying or by other means, in total or in part, at the request of other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I understand that my MRP and/or my MRP research poster may be made electronically available to the public. ii ABSTRACT Background: Using descriptors such as “dangerously regular”, K-Hole’s style movement has been making waves in the fashion industry for its unique, yet familiar Jerry Seinfeld-esque style. This de rigueur ensemble of the 90’s has been revamped into today’s Normcore. A Normcore enthusiast is someone who has mastered the coolness and individuality of fashion and is now interested in blending in. Purpose: The goal of this research was to understand the cultural relevance of the fashion trend Normcore, its subsequent relationship to fashion and identity, as well as what it reveals about contemporary Western culture and the communicative abilities of fashion. -
I D I O S Y N C R a T I C U N I F O
IDIOSYNCRATIC UNIFORM IDIOSYNCRATIC UNIFORM ERICA EFSTRATOUDAKIS IDIOSYNCRATIC UNIFORM ERICA EFSTRATOUDAKIS IDIOSYNCRATIC UNIFORM A thesis presented in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree Master of Industrial Design the Department of Industrial Design of the Rhode Island School of Design, Providence, Rhode Island. By Erica Efstratoudakis RISD MID 2018 Approved by Master’s Examination Committee: Catherine Andreozzi Professor, Department of Apparel, RISD Hannah Carlson Professor, History of Art and Visual Culture, RISD Pamela Sense-Cooke Director Materials Development and Innovation, Reebok Text copyright © 2018 by Erica Efstratoudakis Images copyright © 2018 by Erica Efstratoudakis, except where otherwise noted. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the author. Designed by Erica Efstratoudakis This book is dedicated to the strong women in my life. I wouldn’t be me without you. “Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman.” — Coco Chanel CONTENTS 12 Abstract 15 Introduction 17 Story 18 Users 25 What should I wear today? 29 She wore that yesterday 33 Uniforms: blend in to stand out 36 Experiments 38 Baseline black 44 Prototype: white collar 58 Prototype: chemise 74 Final looks: idiosyncratic uniforms 94 A fashionista’s critique 95 Fashion as a design problem 98 Conclusion 108 Acknowledgments 110 Bibliography ABSTRACT Clothing mediates between the individual and the social. It creates a dialogue between our inner selves and our environments, a dialogue that becomes especially fraught for women at work. Focusing on women’s workwear in male-dominated fields, this thesis calls attention to the existing cultural norms in work environments that solidify dated gender expectations and biases. -
Show Notes 1 Louis Vuitton Men’S Collection by Virgil Abloh Fall-Winter 2021
Louis Vuitton Men’s collection by Virgil Abloh Fall-Winter 2021 Index “Within my practice, I contribute to a Black canon of culture and art and its preservation. This is why, to preserve my own output, I record it at length.” –Virgil Abloh, A manifesto according to Virgil Abloh, 2020. P.3 Notes on the collection P.8 Notes on the performance art piece P.10 Notes on the soundtrack P.12 Paper dolls P.19 An anthology for a collection P.19 What do you want to be when you grow up? P.20 Who wants to look normal? P.21 Are you a tourist or a purist? P.22 What is art and who is it for? P.23 Who did it first? P.24 Go fish? P.26 Upcycling Ideology P.29 The vocabulary according to Virgil Abloh P.56 Look descriptions P.70 Model map Show notes 1 Louis Vuitton Men’s collection by Virgil Abloh Fall-Winter 2021. ‘Ebonics / Snake Oil / The Black Box / Mirror, Mirror’ Paris, January 2021. What do you want to be when you grow up? As children, our dreams and aspirations are personified by archetypes: the Artist, the Salesman, the Architect, the Drifter. Familiar characters in ev- eryday society, they are inseparably defined by their uniforms: the dress codes we associate with professions, lifestyles and knowledge. From head to toe, our minds are inherently trained to outline an archetypical wardrobe to help us identify the character of an individual. Often, these characters are tied to societal presumptions of cultural background, gender, and sexuality. -
Dress Practices As Embodied Multimodal Rhetorics
The Journal of Multimodal Rhetorics Volume 3, Issue 2 Dress Practices as Embodied Multimodal Rhetorics 1 2 Volume 3, Issue 2: Special Issue Dress Practices as Embodied Multimodal Rhetorics Essays Editors’ Essay: “Dress Practices as Embodied Multimodal Rhetoric: Special Issue of the Journal of Multimodal Rhetoric,” by Katie Manthey..……....p. 4 “Dressed but Not Tryin’ to Impress: Black Women Deconstructing ‘Professional’ Dress,” by Brittany Hull, Cecilia D. Shelton, and Temptaous Mckoy……………………………………………………………………………………………p. 7 “Postpartum Fit: Making Space for Feminist Mothering and Mom Bodies in Academic Spaces,” by Marilee Brooks-Gillies and Jessica Jorgenson Borchert……………………………………………………………………………………....p. 21 “Thanks, I Made It: Handmade Clothing as an Embodied Rhetoric of Possibility,” by Anna Hensley………………...……………………………………...p. 45 “‘But You Look So Well!’ (Un)Professionalizing Chronic Pain through Academic Dress” (site “transcript”), by Vyshali Manivannan.............…p. 61 “Weaponizing Wardrobes: Reckoning with History, Blackness, and Embodiment,” by T.J. Tallie…………………………………………………………...p. 78 “Exposing the Seams: Professional Dress & the Disciplining of Nonbinary Trans Bodies,” by GPat Patterson and V. Jo Hsu...……………………………p. 90 “Age, Ability, and Self-Expression: The Question of Purpose and the Intersections of Comfort in the Classroom,” by Mariel Krupansky, Amy Latawiec, and Hillary Weiss ………………………………………………………..p. 112 “Dress Your Professor: Embodied Rhetoric as Pedagogy,” by Stevi Costa..p. 127 “Negotiating Crip Comfort: Dispatches from -
The Entanglement of Resistance and the Luxury Fashion Industry
City University of New York (CUNY) CUNY Academic Works Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects CUNY Graduate Center 2-2021 Own Your Politics: The Entanglement of Resistance and the Luxury Fashion Industry Brent A. Van Horne The Graduate Center, City University of New York How does access to this work benefit ou?y Let us know! More information about this work at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu/gc_etds/4147 Discover additional works at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu This work is made publicly available by the City University of New York (CUNY). Contact: [email protected] OWN YOUR POLITICS: THE ENTANGLEMENT OF RESISTANCE AND THE LUXURY FASHION INDUSTRY by BRENT VAN HORNE A master’s thesis submitted to the Graduate Faculty in Liberal Studies in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts, The City University of New York 2021 i © 2021 BRENT VAN HORNE All Rights Reserved ii Own Your Politics: The Entanglement of Resistance and the Luxury Fashion Industry by Brent Van Horne This manuscript has been read and accepted for the Graduate Faculty in Liberal Studies in satisfaction of the thesis requirement for the degree of Master of Arts. Date [Eugenia Paulicelli] Thesis Advisor Date [Elizabeth Macaulay-Lewis] Executive Officer THE CITY UNIVERSITY OF NEW YORK iii ABSTRACT Own Your Politics: The Entanglement of Resistance and the Luxury Fashion Industry by Brent Van Horne Advisor: Eugenia Paulicelli This thesis takes as its subject the increasing instrumentalization of social and political content by the fashion industry in recent years. Such content raises questions about the relationship between notions of political resistance and market capitalism. -
New Fashion Minimalism in an Affluent Society: – a Paradigm Shift?
NEW FASHION MINIMALISM IN AN AFFLUENT SOCIETY: – A PARADIGM SHIFT? Thesis – One Year Master Textile Managment Corinna Karg Date: 2015-06-08 Thesis Number: 2015.11.07 Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. Leonardo Da Vinci English title: New Fashion Minimalism in an Affluent Society: A Paradigm Shift? Year of publication: 2015 Author: Corinna Karg Supervisor: David Goldsmith Abstract During the last several years, a fast growing interest in minimalist chic has been observed among fashion bloggers around the world. Many of them mention being tired of trends, a shift to inner values and a desire for more simplicity as a moving cause. Buying behaviour that is assumed to be sustainable requires a paradigm shift away from unbridled consumerism towards more mindful consumption. Understanding the current minimalist trend is a key to determining if in fact a paradigm shift is taking place, since that would have direct relevance for future fashion business models. This research aims to research and identify the motivations behind the changed way of dressing. It is discussed whether the new aesthetic is an indicator of an actual cultural shift. Finally, real minimalism is differentiated from the phenomenon of “faux-minimalism”. Specific attention is paid to the question whether a more simplistic wardrobe can lead to emotional liberation and increased happiness. 30 fashion blogs associated with minimalist style were observed to gather data that can give insights into the motivating causes for the phenomenon. To answer further questions, eight bloggers were interviewed. The gathered data from both observations and interviews was analysed and showed that the main reasons for minimalist style are both practical as well as emotional. -
TAUBA AUERBACH Millennial Mathematician
8 TAUBA AUERBACH Millennial mathematician Essentials Glossy brown hair; lean model’s frame; white T-shirt; dark jeans; hands in pockets. Accessorize with A necklace of suspended cylinders, made by the artist herself. Meaning of look The work of multimedia artist Tauba Auerbach explores the facts of life; more explicitly, the fundamental forms, energy and equations that underpin it. Her Fold and Weave paintings challenge the rigid conception of space described by the famous French philosopher René Descartes, proposing a middle way between the second and third dimensions. Sartorially, Auerbach’s look varies from the casual yet cool combination of a T-shirt and jeans that evokes her Californian roots, to more experimental pieces – often in futuristic bright tones – that are as pioneering as her art. Auerbach is also a fan of the egg shape, whether in the form of a gauzy skirt or a top with dropped shoulders and billowing sleeves – fitting for a woman who hatches out new visions of time and space. Sartorial fact In 2008 Auerbach designed a T-shirt for the radical fashion brand Comme de Garçons. In the same year, the brand also used one of her screen-static graphics in an ad campaign. 12 BANKSY If only we knew … Essentials Hoodie; streetwear; chimpanzee mask. Accessorize with A blast of spray paint. Meaning of look Banksy is a rare phenomenon: a prolific street artist and activist who remains persistently anonymous and defies the media’s attempts to identify him. His graffiti, although ironically iconic, is cast as ephemeral and makes social commentary through its combination of text and image, often reversing the expectations of the viewer.