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C. Arunachal Pradesh – Sulung 121 c. arunachal pradesh – sulung 121 SULUNG Overview Assam. We talked about local problems, like trans- port. Sulung (also known as Puroik) settlements are small, Officially there was a bus service from Seppa once with typically five to ten houses and no systematic a week, but sometimes the bus didn’t come at all. plan. They are often located on isolated spurs near Supply of diesel was also a problem because the areas where sago palms grow. Houses are simple and lorry hadn’t come, and so the generator couldn’t work of a rectangular type on a raised platform, accom- and there was no electricity. And for some time the modating a nuclear family. In case of more wives or high tension cable from Seppa had been out of action. families, each wife has her own room and hearth. Mr Doley thought the diesel wouldn’t arrive for a long Houses in interior areas, however, are said to be much time. larger, up to 5 × 24 metres. We talked about the Sulungs. He explained that The sections of the house are: front veranda with they were poor and still dependent on Bangnis and ritual space; a central room with one fireplace; a nar- Nyishis. In fact, slavery had not really disappeared. row corridor-like side room for storage and toilet; He agreed with what the Additional Deputy Com- rear veranda for storage. A notched log leads to both missioner in Seppa had told us yesterday about the verandas. Granaries are built at some distance from government project to buy the Sulungs’ liberty: the the houses. The materials used for building houses problem is the Bangnis would get richer while the are wood and bamboo, cane for joints and banana Sulungs would stay poor and keep working as their leaves or (more modern) bamboo matting for the servants. Education would be very important. roof. We started our walk to Sanchu. The four young boys, seven to twelve years old, showed us the way. Along a narrow footpath we first climbed some 300 Commentary metres, using our umbrellas against the sun. It was a steep climb as we crossed small streams, rough clay In Seppa we met Mrs Hopo, a Bangni lady from Chi- bumps and boulders. Occasionally we rested. Know- yang Tajo, who told us that she knew a Sulung village, ing that Sulungs preferred living in the mountains, called Sanchu. We drove to Chiyang Tajo, which is a we hoped the village lay on a high plateau. But reach- minor government post (Circle Headquarters) at the ing the pass, we saw the village far below us on a end of the road and 1,800 metres altitude. Sushil drove plateau halfway down the mountain slope. the 81 kilometres from Seppa in about four and a half The descent went easily, but we realised only too hours, which was fast, given the condition of the road. well that later we would have to climb back up it. The Passing by scattered small houses with metal roofs, English-speaking boy told us that he went to school we went to the Inspection Bungalow and spoke to and worked in a tea-shop. He didn’t earn money, but the watchman and the Circle Officer. ‘You are the his boss paid the school fees and bought him pen, first foreigners to come here,’ they said. From the I.B. paper and school books. we had a marvellous view over the Kameng River During the descent, now in the shadows along valley and the snow-capped Himalayas behind. steep and slippery parts, the boy told us about par- Four young boys sitting nearby looked curiously ticular plants and warned us about the poisonous, at us, and one spoke English. We asked him about thorny ones we almost touched. After one and a half Sanchu. ‘We know the Sulung village you want to hours, going up and down, we reached the plateau visit,’ he said and added that he was willing to take where the village lay. us there that afternoon. At the front of the village were a little school and An Intelligence Department officer took note of the house of the schoolteacher. The village itself con- our papers. On his advice, we spoke to the local Block sisted of ten houses on platforms, most of them with Warden, Mr Doley, a nice man from Majuli Island in the new style of flattened bamboo matting on the 122 c. arunachal pradesh – sulung roof. Just one house had the older roof cover of ba- pipe and two women each carrying a basket of fire- nana leaves. This was also the only house where wood on their back came from behind and passed people were at home at the moment and where we us. It was amazing that people made this journey could ask if we might have a look inside. The other once or twice a day, along this steep path, and they villagers were away, working for the Bangnis, as we did it so easily. had been told they would be. Descending to the Inspection Bungalow, darkness The house owner was Mr Da, the village priest, fell, and the peaks of the Himalaya contrasted with and a helpful man. The hair knot on his forehead, the coloured evening sky. The boys got tea for us from pierced with a pin, looked like that worn by Nyishis, the tea-shop and a kind of flour-balls to have some- but he also wore a special hat with tiger-skin and thing to eat. eagle feathers. It was pitch-dark in the I.B. and in the whole vil- The house was rather small, containing one room, lage: no diesel and no electricity. We lit our candles. and front and back verandas, both accessible via tree- Mr Doley came along to remind us of his invitation trunk stairs. The house was built on a light slope, with for dinner. A bit later his son and watchman came to the front veranda highest above ground. As I started take us down to his house, where, it appeared, the to make my drawing (D. 048, P. 102 and P. 104), Mr watchman had cooked for us. A few candles burned Da said, ‘We live here as one family, my wife and I to provide light. and our four children.’ Inside he offered a little bench Mr Doley asked about my impressions of the dif- and gestured for us to sit down. We sat around the ferences between Sulung and Bangni or Nyishi hous- only fireplace and looked about. es. I told him that in Sanchu there were no The fireplace lay in the middle of the living-room, longhouses like the Bangni had and that the Sulung while the passage was on the side where we sat. ‘The one-family house was much smaller than those de- other side of the fireplace is for sleeping at night,’ he scribed in R.K. Deuri’s 1982 book on the Sulungs. explained. Next to the passage was a narrow enclosed Deuri described one-family houses that were 4.5 to space used to store firewood and as as toilet. The 5 metres wide and 9 metres long, and multi-family fenced-in space under the house sheltered the pigs houses that were 24 metres long. By contrast, the one- at night. The back veranda was half used as storage family house we saw in Sanchu was only 4.2 by 7.2 for firewood, baskets, etc. Finally Mr Da took us to metres. ‘That’s because the Sulungs in this area are the front veranda and showed the ritual space with here just for work,’ said Mr Doley. ‘They live on land mithun skulls and hunting trophies. owned by Bangnis and are not allowed to use too Some men, it appeared, had come home. On the much materials. In remote areas, where they are less village road a man sat while he split and flattened dependent on Bangnis, much higher in the Himalayas bamboos (P. 105). After being dried the strips are used and several days walk from here, they have larger for floors, walls and nowadays also for roof covering. houses.’ Next to the priest’s house two men were building a When we left next morning, it was still dark. Above granary; they were just then using cane to tie the the grey silhouetted mountains rose the snow-caps bamboo matting on the roof to the frame (P. 103). of the Himalayas, contrasting with the dark sky – a After some time of looking around, we got the marvellous sight. Touched by the rays of the rising strong impression that the villagers, no matter how sun, the peaks began to shine and change colour, nice and helpful, were getting nervous or even anx- from orange to rose, from rose to yellow, from yellow ious—perhaps they expected problems with the to white. Bangnis because of our visit. Along the road, not far from a Bangni village we After saying goodbye and thanking them for their saw small houses on platforms, with front and back kindness, we went back along the narrow footpath, verandas, a bit asymmetrical because of the narrow always climbing. Now and then we had to stop; it was side space and the lower extending roof. These clear- very steep and tiring. From the pass we looked once ly were Sulung houses, which now we were able to more down to the village far below. A man with a recognize. .
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