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2011-05 Kootenay Mountaineer

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2011-05 Kootenay Mountaineer %567*)%8%9'/%0344% Kootenay :;;."%<%% Mountaineering Club The Newsletter for people with year-round pursuits. !"#$%&"'()*+",%-.)/%01$2%0344%%%%%%%) Find inside ! ! !KMC Mountain School tech!Tips !+0')) ! )) Evaluating Terrain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Loki conditions and steep terrain below, however, meant that getting a good edge in was mandatory, and it was worth taking the time to de-skin. Once at the col at GR962410 (NAD27) all difficulties were over and we put our skins April 24, 2011 back on and cruised to peak 2163 metres for lunch. Climbing Loki in the summer a couple of years ago, I saw an entry in the summit register of a party who made the ascent and ski down in Hikers will recall the summer route climbs up from the winter. This put the idea in my head, what an amazing winter objective saddle, then wraps around to the right where a short slab is it would be! Then, after checking out Google Earth, maps, bivouac.com, negotiated with hands, before coming out into a wide shale and talking to people (special thanks to Jeff Hammerich!), it started to slope. We stuck to the ridge instead, and zig-zagged up to look like it might be possible. It all came together late Saturday night, gain the ridge proper, thereby avoiding the steep exposed with an out-of-town visit from friends and former KMC members slope. Up on the ridge we climbed over wind waves of Megan Long and Luke Jansma, the loan of a snowmobile from Luke’s snow and avoided the huge cornices on the left (north) side. dad, Leo, a good weather forecast, and good snow stability. We didn’t We boot packed and punched through the largest wind wave bother changing our Saturday night party plans, though, and that made it for about 10 feet, then continued skiing up the ridge to a nice a bit hard to get up for our early Easter Sunday start! flat break spot just below the first false summit by 3:30pm. Feeling fast on our skis (inappropriately, as it turned out), we met at the From there we could see our hopes of skiing the south side Jansma compound in Queen’s Bay at 7:00am to load the sled, gas it up, were not to be. The hot weather had caused numerous slides and get to the ferry for the 8:10 sailing. On the East Shore, we found the down that face, and we watched as one wet-cement, lava- Portman Creek logging road clear up to km 8.5, where there was also a like mass moved down to fill the lower bench with debris. downed tree. We unloaded the snowmobile and towed 3 skiers behind in Then another one across the valley to the north thundered a clever quick-release system with bicycle inner tubes used as harnesses. down sounding like a plane passing overhead. We discussed Very comfortable! We had to walk across a few dirt patches, but the tow our planned turn around time of 4:30, and decided to was easy, and we were at the approximate area of the trailhead and ready continue on a bit to gain experience and route-planning to ski at 10:45am. We were quite lucky there were no more downed information for next time. We again skied one at a time up trees, as we did not think to bring a chainsaw. The trail signs and blazes the 1st false summit’s steep approach, then left our skis at a must have been under the snow, and we quickly dug more than 6 ft to protected spot in the rocks, and continued up on foot with ground by one tree. No worries, though, we all recalled the general ice axes. summer route, and set out gently contouring up the slope on our skis, wrapping around to the right. There is quite a bit of flagging tape in that lower section of woods, but it doesn’t seem to mean much to the hiker, The shallowly-covered rocks proved a bit treacherous, as it’s likely cut block flagging. We came out into the bowl below the did the cornices on top, but we were able to see the route we Portman notch on the left flank of the slope, higher than where the would take next time around the second false summit and up summer trail comes out. That was a great vantage point to assess the to the top. We could see it would require some mandatory conditions in the bowl. exposure, and thus more stable snow conditions, colder weather, and an earlier start (oh, and stronger legs, too!) (not you, Luke!). At 4:25pm we were all standing on the first It was a very sunny, hot, spring day, and recent slides filled the bowl on false summit, and were a little disappointed but a little the south facing side. The cliffs above likely had melted off chunks that relieved to be turning around! became triggers, and nearly the entire south side was filled with debris. The north side still had huge hanging cornices, so, even though the snow was better over there, we decided to sprint across the debris field one at a We plunge-stepped and slid back down to our skis, then a time. Well, sprinting across debris is difficult, and there was much few of us embarrassed ourselves survival skiing the swearing, falling, bleeding, and slow-going.
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