The Cyprus Wine Guide

Varieties of the Cypriot Vineyard he vineyards of Cyprus Very few parts of the world continue to are among the very cultivate the European vine, apart from few vineyards of the Cyprus. These are Chile, the Greek world that were not island of Santorini and some regions of affected by the vine Portugal and South Australia. louse, known as Tphylloxera, a disease that fell upon Quick guide the greatest part of Europe’s vineyards at the beginning of the to Cyprus's grape varieties twentieth century, destroying them (Total hectares planted) almost completely. The catastrophic consequences of phylloxera led Red grapes European vine-growers to the option Mavro 5400 of trying to revive their ruined Carignan 840 vineyards by engrafting scions of Cabernet Franc 410 well-known European varieties on to Cabernet Sauvignon 324 American vine stocks which are Shiraz 270 resistant to the disease. This resulted Mataro (Mourvèdre) 225 in vine plants resistant to phylloxera, Maratheftiko 183 which, however, produced (and are Ofthalmo 162 still producing) grapes whose Grenache 155 organoleptic or sense-related characteristics – i.e. colour, aroma Alicante Bouschet 135 and flavour – are not quite identical Lefkada 122 to those of the original European Cinsaut 119 vine known as Vitis Vinifera. White grapes Cyprus, however, having escaped the phylloxera onslaught, maintained Xynisteri 2410 its vineyards free from any Muscat of Alexandria 270 intervention and, to this day, the Chardonnay 150 Cypriot vines are self-sown plants of Palomino 82 the European Vitis Vinifera retaining Sémillon 44 their classic organoleptic Sauvignon Blanc 30 characteristics as well as the Riesling 25 potential of a long life. 28 Varieties INDIGENOUS WHITE VARIETIES Xynisteri The name Xynisteri makes its first appearance in 1893 in a report entitled "Rapport sur une Mission viticole à l’ île de Chypre" by professor Mouillefert of the Grignon Agricultural College. With 2410 hectares under cultivation, Xynisteri is the most wide-spread white grape variety in the Cypriot vineyard. Vinification at low temperatures (16oC) of grapes from select regions (such as Kathikas, Akamas Laona, Vouni Panayias, Ambelitis and Pitsilia) produces fresh, light-coloured, aromatic wines with winemaking. Other indigenous white medium alcohol levels (11.5-12.5% varieties on the island (such as vol.) which are not usually amenable Promara, Spourtiko, Kanela, to ageing and must be drunk when Morokanela et al.) have not managed young and robust – one year at most to come forth, away from the after production. marginal periphery of the Cypriot Xynisteri is essentially the only vineyard where, for several decades, indigenous white variety with a they are no more than museum significant role in Cyprus items. INDIGENOUS RED VARIETIES Maratheftiko of which the tannin, fragrance, Professor Mouillefert was, again, colour and structure are extremely the first to refer to this variety by close to those of a Cabernet. Very name, in 1893, using the word promising but too rare." Marathophiko. More recently, in In the Pitsilia region this variety is 1988 to be exact, Robinson refers known by the name Bambakada or to this variety as "a local variety of Bambakina. It is a very rare variety, superior quality found among and it is estimated that only some Mavro stocks in many vineyards. It 183 hectares are under cultivation makes for a very concentrated wine in the whole of Cyprus, whereas 29 Varieties the Mavro variety – a grape with definitely less potential – covers a total area of 5400 hectares! This, of course, is due to the fact that Maratheftiko, being less productive than Mavro, was not as popular among the older generation of viticulturalists. The limited number of vine-plants of this variety that one finds interspersed within Mavro vineyards were planted for the purpose of giving a more intense dark colour to wines from the Mavro variety. That is why there are no old vineyards planted exclusively with Maratheftiko. There is, however, another reason Maratheftiko with obvious signs of for the unpopularity of flower shedding Maratheftiko. Unfortunately, the variety faces a serious viticultural have flooded the island’s vineyards. problem, for it has a propensity to This unique opportunity for Cyprus severe bud loss resulting in thinly to invest in this grape variety still clustered grape bunches. The remains unexploited. Maratheftiko reason for this is the fact that is dispersed throughout the island Maratheftiko is one of the very few but is to be found mainly in the varieties in the world which are hilly regions of Paphos (Panayia, non-hermaphroditic. Its buds are Ambelitis) and in Pitsilia. It is a physiologically female and multi-dynamic variety that can give consequently it has to be planted in a multitude of wine types – from mixed vineyards to ensure rosés and light reds to reds suitable pollination. for ageing. At its best, it produces In spite of this severe handicap high quality red wines of intense faced by what essentially is the only colour, thick fruity aroma indigenous quality red grape, the reminiscent of cherries and appropriate authorities have done blackberries and full body with nothing to solve the problem, and select tannins that render it this dynamic variety, in which the amenable to extended ageing. Cyprus wine industry could invest Wines of this variety that have for its future, is staggering along, appeared on the market quite neglected and stifled amidst the recently were aged in new oak dozens of imported varieties that casks before being bottled. 30 DOMAINE ARGYRIDES THE WINERY AT A GLANCE Year of foundation 2000 Proprietor Pambos Argyrides Village Vasa Kilaniou Altitude Distance from 760 m Lefkosia 126 km 90 min. Lemesos 40 km 30 min. Vineyards owned Paphos 87 km 60 min. 10 ha Larnaca 107 km 90 min. Total annual production Ayia Napa 157 km 120 min. (in bottles of 750ml) Nearest Wineries 28500 Ktima KEO (Malia) 5 min. Wines produced Linos (Omodos) 5 min. 1. Chardonnay, white dry Zenon (Omodos) 10 min. 6500 btls Olympus (Omodos) 10 min. 2. Cabernet Sauvignon, Information red dry R&A Vasa Winery Ltd 5000 btls Vasa Kilaniou 4771, Lemesos 3. Saint Timon, red dry Tel.: 25945999, 25945888, Fax: 25734744 e-mail: [email protected] (Mataro) 6500 btls Visits 4. Maratheftiko, red dry By appointment 6500 btls 5. Mourvèdre, red dry 4000 btls Ktima Argyrides vineyards, among the most impressive on the island 60 n the whole of Cyprus there is only up the baton from the tired old veteran one winery that was built with absolute to continue the task and raise it to respect to the tradition of the region higher standards. where it is situated. This is the But before all this came about, before I Domaine Argyrides, owned by Pambos the Domaine Argyrides took its present Argyrides, who constructed a small but flourishing shape and form, it so model winery wholly from select local happened that the wine in one of the stone panelled with wood and traditional big earthen jars that fulfilled featuring decorative doors and the function of winemaking tanks, windows that bring to mind bygone turned sour. This prompted the times. The inspirer and creator of this winemaker to find out why. Knowledge doll-like "miniature" winery, whose came to him in various ways: he total annual production does not attended courses on wine and exceed 30000 bottles, did not build winemaking, he enriched his library this work of art in the heart of the with specialist books on the subject, he village for the purpose of making talked to wine experts, and finally he money but to give an outlet to his travelled to Bordeaux, to Rioja (Spain) passion for wine. and to Napa Valley (California). A successful businessman at the head "When I came back from these travels," of one of the most enviable companies Mr Argyrides confided to me in a on the island, which he had set up friendly conversation, "having seen with two partners in 1985, two years how far behind these people I was, I before returning to Cyprus from South said to myself that I must either give Africa where he had lived for years, up the whole project or try to get as Pambos Argyrides does not expect to close to their standards as I could." make a living out of wine anyway. Opting for the second alternative, the The fully restored old building that now winemaker does honour to his village houses the winery used to be the place which can pride itself on having the where, for years, Pambos’s father best premises housing a winery made his own wine. When the old anywhere in Cyprus, where quality man, ravaged by relentless time, had to wines are produced that can easily gradually grind to a halt, Pambos, claim to be included among the top indulging his passion for wine, picked five ranges of wine in the country. 61 DOMAINE ARGYRIDES Maratheftiko 2007 The producer's Maratheftiko 2007 is, aromatically, perhaps the most interesting red wine produced on the island. Its flowery and at the same time fruity aromas, duly enveloped within well- chosen oak cannot but be appreciated, if for no other reason, at least for their authenticity. In terms of taste, the wine continues to Best Wine be very interesting, and if the producer manages to restrain the highlighted acidity and the rather intense tannins, he will probably be in a position to bring out, some time in the future, the island's first great wine. Rating Pambos Argyrides Recommended Wines Saint Timon Cabernet Sauvignon Mourvèdre 2007 2005 The 2005 and 2006 Over the last few The winery's first Saint Timon are two years, Domaine Mourvèdre cannot of the best wines that Argyrides's Cabernet pass unnoticed: Pambos Argyrides Sauvignon has been dense, dark red has produced so far.

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