VOLUME 4, NUMBER 4 APRIL, 1980

®

ROLOGICAL

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute

THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Clockmakers. • • LESLIE L. SMITH 4 A Change of Scene to have AWINEWS MILTON C. STEVENS 6 New Bench Courses in Clock Restoration BENCH COURSE

SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING JOSEPH RUGOLE 14 Keeping Up with the Times

MARVIN E. WHITNEY 18 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER Don't Forget. • • Some Innovative Ideas and Design Changes in the Hamilton Chronometer To VOTE! HENRY B. FRIED 24 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS Croton R23 Chronograph

GLOSSARY OF SOLID STATE TERMS LOUIS A. ZANONI 26 A Glossary of Electronic Terms Used in We Salute ... Quartz Watches: Part II TECHNICALLY WATCHES MUSEUM DONORS! ARCHIE B. PERKINS 28 Watch Bands and Case Gaskets

FRED S. BURCKHARDT 34 THE ROCK QUARRY A Key Ingredient: Enthusiasm!

ROBERT F. BISHOP 38 AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN Profile: The Horological Society of New York BASEL FAIR ...

CLOCK CHATTER OTTO BENESH 42 Two Silent Verges and a Marriage it must be APRIL! Not Made in Heaven

CHIME AND STRIKE STEVEN G. CONOVER 44 The Seth Thomas Sonora Chime

IN THE SPOTLIGHT ORVILLE R. HAGANS 50 Lust's Astronomical Clock

PICKLE BARREL MARSHALL F · RICHMOND 54 Changing Heads, Tops, Bezels, and Replacing Sides and Shanks DEPARTMENTS Our Readers Write/ 16 JOSEPH RUGOLE 60 WATCH ADJUSTMENTS New Members/ 48 Hairspring Vibrating A WI Bench Courses / 49 Bench Tips / 58 Book Review / 59 Horological Times ISSN0145-9546 is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watch­ makers Institute, Harold J. Herman, Editor, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Reprint­ New Products / 62 ing and reproduction is prohibited without permission from the American Watchmakers Institute. News in the Trade / 62 Subscription, $30.00 per year, $4.00 per copy in the United States and $36.00 per year, $5.00 per Museum Donors/ 67 copy outside the United States. Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. Copyright©1980 by Classified Ads / 70 the American Watchmakers Institute. Advertiser's Index / 72 Dates to Remember/ 72 Executive and Editorial Offices AWi Central P.O. Box 11011 3 700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 GOLD, SILVER, Telephone: (513) 661-3838 AND MEASURES Harold J. H~rman: Editor Thomas J . Herman: Managing Editor During the past months, you probably have had and still are having Virginia C. Montgomery: Associate Editor customers approach you in your establishment wanting to sell gold and thus turning the customer-proprietor relationship 180°. Up to now, two LuAnn Martin: Art Director Sue Scott: Business Manager items not seen in every jewelry store were nitric acid and aqua regia. Today, they are necessary if you become your customer's customer. Exact deter­ Mildred Howard: Circulation Manager mination of gold content is essential if you don't want to lose your shirt. Lee Rothan: Circulation Should you presently not have a Troy ounce scale, or have one that does not Technical Editors: cover the heavier weights of some of the items brought to you (especially Otto Benesh Archie B. Perkins James H. Broughton Marshall F. Richmond silver), your mailing scale (Avoirdupois) can give you a fairly accurate Fred S. Burckhardt Joseph Rugole weight of the item. The following chart can help you in determining Steven G. Conover Leslie L. Smith Troy weights. ill:ill Joe Crooks William 0. Smith, Jr. Paul Fisk Jam es L. Tigner Henry B. Fried Marvin E. Whitney TABLE FOR CONVERTING Avoir. Troy Orville R. Hagans AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT TO Lbs. Ozs. Ewell D. Hartman Gerald G. Jaeger TROY OZS. 1 ...... 14.58 oz. Sean C. Monk 2 ...... 29.16 oz. Robert A. Nelson 3 ...... 43.75 oz. 4 ...... 58.33 oz. A WI Officers: Leslie L. Smith, CMW, CEWS: President 5 ...... 72.91 oz. Joe Crooks: 1st Vice President 6 ...... 87.50 oz. Karl Buttner, CMW: 2nd Vice President 7 ...... 102.08 oz. Charles H. Mann: Secretary Avoir- Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC: Treasurer Dupois Troy 8 ...... 116.66 oz. Ozs. Ozs. 9 ...... 131.25 oz. A WI Directors: 1 ...... 91 oz. 10 ...... 145.83 oz. Dorothy M. Aderman 2 ...... 1.82 oz. 11 ...... 160.41 oz .. Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D. James H. Broughton, CEWS 3 ...... 2.73 oz. 12 ...... 175.00 oz. Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC 4 ...... 3.64 oz. 13 ...... 189.58 oz. Ewell D. Hartman, CMW 5 ...... 4.55 oz. Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS 14 ...... 204.16oz. Donald W. Leverenz, CMW 6 ...... 5.47 oz. 15 ...... 218.75 oz. Sean C. Monk, CMW' 7 ...... 6.38 oz. 20 ...... 291.66 oz. Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS Eric R. Samuel, CMW 8 ...... 7.29 oz. 25 ...... 364.58 oz. 9 ...... 8.20 oz. 30 ...... 437.50 oz. Robert F. Bishop: Affiliate Chapter Director 10 ...... 9.11 oz. 35 ...... 510.41 oz. 11 ...... 10.02 oz. 40 ...... 583.33 oz. Joseph Rugole, CMW : Research and Education Council Chairman 12 ...... 10.93 oz. 45 ...... 656.25 oz. 13 ...... 11.85oz. 50 ...... 729.16 oz. Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director 14 ...... 12.76 oz. 75 ...... 1093.75 oz. 15 ...... 13.67 oz. 100 ...... 1458.33 oz.

2 Horological Times/April 1980 Quality Clock Movements

# 300 Transistor Quartz Insert Movement Housed in a dust free cap­ # 450Quartz # 600 sule, this reliable move­ Complete W/Dial - Hands ment represents your best value today in a transistor clock movement. Runs for over a year on a single ·c· Precise timekeeping is now cell and accurate to within • available for the clock in­ 10 seconds per day. The 75 stallation and replacement low price combined with $ 5 . In Quantity trouble free service make markets. These units are this unit an exceptional $ 4 50 . ready to install quickly and value. • In Quantity economically Comes com­ 1 or2@$6.50-3to9@$6.00-10to24@ 2 3/8" x 2 13/16" x 7/8" plete with brushed brass $5.50-25 to 49@ $5.00-50 to 99@ $4.50 finished bezel-dial & hands. 1or2@ $18,95 each each. Write for quantities over 100. Extreme accuracy is now available Available in 3"-33/a" 4" diam. 3 to 9 @ $16.95 each ALMOST AS SMALL at very moderate cost for customers AS A WATCH! # 475 that demand precise time keeping. # 650 Quartz Insert Weighing only 1 .25 Tiny Quartz Movement Only ounces. this Versatile Quality features such as high quartz Movement will carry a oscillation of 4 . 194304 MHz. sweep second hand and run for over one year on a Assures reliable time keeping as single "AA" cell-only well as accuracy. The small di­ 9/16" thick this com­ The same movement as used pact unit can be fit into mensions are ideal for all jobs. Fully in the above insert complete. any type case or paneL A Runs on AA Pen lite Cells. Can 75 warranted for one year. single center nut enables $ 5 . In Quantity be installed 3 ways, friction, the movement to be easi­ fixing screw or case screws ly fixed to a dial. The hand 1 or2@$8.75-3to Only 23/a" diameter for easy setting knob, seconds 9@$7.50-10to24 1 or 2@ $8.75-3 to 9@ $7.50-10 to 24@ 1 or 2@ $11 .95 each setter, and battery com­ @$6.75-25 to 49 $6, 75-25 to 49@ $6.00-50 to 99@ $5. 75 installation in wood, metal or 3 to 9@ $10,95 each partment are convenient­ @ $6.00-50 to 99 each. Write for quantities over 100 ~ ceramics ly located on the back. @ $5.75 each­ Accurate to (±) 10 Write for quantities seconds per month. over 100.

Electric Insert Movement # 500 Quartz # 575 # 100 Pendulum Complete with Dial-Hands-Cord Quartz Striking Pendulum 5 $ 9 . 0 In Quantity 81/4" x 55/e"

This compact unit can be fitted into any type of en­ 24.00 In Quantity closure. case or panel. The pendulum does not affect This versatile and extremely accurate q uaitz accuracy of one movement with its beautiful chime minute per year, so that tones would be a welcome addition to 3%" 4" 5Vz" various lengths of 8 to 14 any room. Can be used with or without $5.70 $5.95 $6.20 inches may be used. Noise pendulum. Comes complete with hands from movement is negli- and pendulum. A clock movement ready to incor­ gible, only ticking sound •Chimes on half hour-Counts on hour porate into •a case of your own •Accurate to ± 10 seconds per month of pendulum can be heard. design. A complete unit with dial •Runs for 2 years on ·o· alkaline cell and hands, covered by glass for de­ 1or2@ $13.95-3 to 9@ $12.75-10 to 24@ •Chimes can be silenced by pushing lever •Dependable-Fully guaranteed for one year pendability and ease of installation. $11 .75-25 to 49@ $10.50-50 to 99@ $9,50. Versatile because of a variety of Write tOr quantities over 1 OOa 1 or 2 @ $27.95-3 to 9 @ $25.95-Canon of 10 $24.00 mounting techniques. DELIVERY FROM STOCK - PRICES INCLUDE HANDS - USE COUPON BELOW PLEASE SEND MOVEMENTS AS LISTED PLUS $1.50 FOR DELIVERY. # 300 TRANSISTOR MOVEMENTS @------­ # 475 TINY QUARTZ MOVEMENTS @------­ # 450 QUARTZ MOVEMENTS @------­ # 600 # 650 @ ~~~~~~~- # 500 QUARTZ PENDULUMS @ ------­ .. # 575 QUARTZ STRIKING PENDULUMS @------­ # 100 ELECTRIC MOVEMENTS @ ~~~~~~~- We also stock numerals-markers Check here for booklet. # 300-450-500 available in Reg. Post (to 3/a" thickness} and Line Post (to %"thick}.

NAME ADDRESS CITY STATE ZIP 1

u u u• u U• • ••• m *--~~~- ~- ~J~~;t;;1·:~~~;~~~~~:,;; _~~ ---- UUU• mu u April 1980/Horological Times 3 President's Message/ Leslie L. Smith, CMW, CEWS On the front

A Change of Scene .. . And More Change of Scene!

Our April cover pays tribute his spring, for the first time in ten to Spring vacation with th is years, the Annual Board Meeting of T view of coco, or coconut, the American Watchmakers Institute will be held at a location other than Cincinnati. palms along the Kona Coast San Francisco, the "City by the Bay," of Hawaii. Though not as will be the host city this year with the common the world over as meeting scheduled for the last weekend some other varieties of palms, in June. the coconut palm is one This change came about as the of the most graceful and result of a general discussion in last photogenic as wel I as among year's Affiliate Chapter Meeting con­ cerning the possibility of A WI periodically the most useful. holding its Annual Board Meeting in a city other than Cincinnati in order to allow better exposure of its operation to the membership. The statement was made that to most members, A WI is a paper or­ ganization, remote and impersonal. By periodically holding the meeting at We realize that to some who various locations around the country have found Cincinnati a very convenient (about once every five years was sug­ location, this will result in longer travel gested), the members could observe the time and some increase in expense. official function of the organization and At the same time, many of AWi's rep­ meet with the many outstandmg people resentatives who have traveled from attending the meeting. the West Coast for years will benefit The Board of Directors of A WI, from the location. after careful deliberation, approved the All indications are that this Affiliate Chapter recommendation, re­ will be an outstanding meeting in the sulting in the selection of San Francisco beautiful bay area of San Francisco. for 1980. See you there! liCil3

DON'T TURN AWAY ORIENT WATCHES FOR REPAIR. WE CAN Join us aboard the AW! SUPPLY MOST PARTS FOR ORIENT. Horological Tour to HELP US TO PROCESS YOUR ORDER CORRECTLY THE FIRST TIME BY INCLUDING ALL OF THE FOLLOWING England and Ireland. INFORMATION: A - MOVEMENT CALIBER NUMBER. B -ALL NUMBERS FROM BACK OF CASE. C - COLOR OF CASE . "Don't be left out!" .$>~ KILB & COMPANY ~w~ 623 N. SECOND ST. Please Contact AWi Central Today at: (513) 661-3838 'lP Ml~~~~::E~~~ :;~01

4 Horological Times/April 1980 Introducing The Incredible Portescap Vibrograf M-80 Digital Quartz Analyzer!

"THE ULTIMATE TIMER FOR TESTING ELECTRONIC AND ELECTRIC WATCHES:'

The Vibrograf M-80 is an excellent investment. TESTS ALL KNOWN FREQUENCIES OF INTEGRATED SOLID STATE CIRCUITS. Its technology is so far advanced that it is at WATCHES. They insure long, trouble-free life, ease and the outer limits of the state of the art of Measures the accuracy of quartz base accuracy of ope ration. testing watches today. movements employing digital LED or LCD displays, with analog stepper motor ISMQI or TEMPERATURE COMPENSATED Its accuracy is many times greater than tuning fork. Tests the accuracy of all tuning COMPONENTS. that of the most sophisticated quartz watches fork and conventional balance wheel watches Maintains the Vibrograf "M-8 0" quartz now being made. IM-80 crystal standard as well. crystal at precise frequency. The quartz crystal oscillates over 8 million times per second to is 8.64 MHZ with a degree of accuracy of 1 give the M-80 astonishing accuracy.I 1x10- . Yet its push button efficiency and easily A SMALL UNIT FOR A BIG JOB! readable display screen make it amazingly The easy-to-care-for Vibrograf "M-80" is simple for you or any of your personnel to conveniently compact. The all-metal cabinet operate. measures only 9}'2" wide, 4" high, 8%" deep. And for viewing ease, there's a built-in tilt stand . + '7 ~ AN EXCELLENT INVESTMENT! . L - UNIQUE MICROPHONE HOLDER The "M-80" technology is so far advanced sec/day ELIMINATES SPECIAL PROBES AND that it will prove to be the only quartz timing IT'S THIS EASY! ATIACHMENTS. machine you'll ever need. Two year guarantee. Press the matching button on the "M-80" The Vibrograf "M-80" microphone for the type of watch or clock to be incorporates capacitive coupling capability for Portescap U.S. measured. Position the watch on the unique picking up radio signals of quartz crystals. Its microphone holder. Check the display screen to inductive coupling capability will monitor the VIBROGRAF MACHINE DIVISION determine the plus or minus rate in seconds magnetic field produced by the indexing of 6 Ohio Drive, Lake Success, per day. The "M-80" is capable of measuring stepper motors in analog and tuning fork New York 11040 (516) 437-8700 errors as small as 1/100th 1.011 of a second per watches. And its acoustic crystal will pick up day for all quartz watches. conventional balance wheel movements. incabloc®O

A pril 1980/Horological Times S AWi News/ Milton C. Stevens

New Bench Courses In Clock Restoration

uring the mid-year Executive Com­ ported that as of January 31, 1980, the mittee meeting, plans were outlined indebtedness on the AWI building had for a new type of AWI bench course. been reduced from $55,000.00 (the We are preparing a two-day bench course original loan) to $13,595.04. This drastic in clock restoration. The instructor is reduction in less than four years is the one of this country's leading clock re­ result of the generosity of A WI members storers, Mr. Otto Benesh. Mr. Benesh and organizations who contributed to the is well known for his popular "Clock building fund, and to Orville R. Hagans Chatter" column which appears monthly for making the rights to the Best of in the Horological Times. Mr. Benesh Colemen available to AWL Thus far, the is a graduate engineer and has been at proceeds from the Coleman book account the bench many years. His interest in for over $28,000.00 paid on the mortgage clock restoration took him to England principle. We are hoping to celebrate our where he worked in one of England's twentieth year by burning this mortgage oldest and most respected shops. Mr. at the annual Board of Directors meeting. Benesh does a great deal of work in clock The Executive Committee accepted restoration for the Smithsonian Insti­ in principle the offer of Orville R. Hagans tution, the Supreme Court, and the of another book for publication. This State Department. He is recognized as book will be entitled Information Please one of this country's top experts in the and will be based on the writings of W. H. field. Milton C. Stevens Samelius. Mr. Samelius was the dean This course is being designed to of the Elgin College of Watchmaking eventually be a series of three or four A WI will be guided on future plans which in Elgin, Illinios. This book will be more distinct programs. Each will impart are now under consideration. If the need watch oriented, just as Mr. Coleman's certain skills and philosophies which are is clear, our present plans include the book is clock oriented. More details on necessary for the successful clock re­ development of similar weekend work­ this book will be forthcoming as details storer. As Mr. Benesh explained in shops in basic clock repair. We also are finalized. his first Horological Times article, there expect to develop residence courses of Robert Nelson, Chairman of the is a distinct difference between a clock two-week duration which will be pre­ Visual Aids Committee, reported that a restoration and a clock repair. These sented two or three times a year in record number of slide/tape programs programs will be weekend courses usually advanced clock restoration and advanced will be ready by year's end for use by held on Saturday and Sunday. Class clock repair. These courses will be held watchmakers' groups at local meetings size must be restricted to insure enough in fully equipped shops. and conventions. one-on-one contact with the instructor. For several years now, certain A WI A new look in A WI workshops was We expe'.. t to limit class size to twelve members have petitioned the A WI Board explained to the Committee. This new persons. to develop these kinds of programs for look involves a "tightening-up" on work­ Individuals who take the sessions clock repairers. This is our first attempt shop procedures to insure that they are must already possess the skill and know­ to meet these requests and we are anxious conducted and promoted in a uniform ledge to successfully repair most kinds to make them available. We feel especially manner. The objective is to allow every of clocks. Those taking the course will fortunate to have Mr. Otto Benesh A WI member an equal opportunity to be required to furnish the usual hand working on this project. We applaude attend A WI workshops. tools found in most clock repair shops, Mr. Benesh for his dedication and un­ Jim Broughton, Chairman of the i.e., saws, files, cutters, pliers, etc. A WI selfishness in his willingness to share his nominating committee for A WI Board will furnish the raw materials and certain wealth of knowledge and experience with of Directors, reported a record number specialty tools. It will not be necessary to his fellow craftsmen. of approved candidates this year. There bring a lathe to the weekend workshops. Persons who are interested in at­ will be fifteen in all. Complete election Mr. Benesh is currently outlining tending one of the early sessions should details can be found elsewhere in this the course content for the various ses­ contact me at once. They will be placed issue of Horological Times. sions. We will publish details as they on a preferred list and will be sent in­ Henry B. Fried, AWI Tour Com­ become finalized. The cost of these formation on each course as it becomes mittee Chairman, reported on this year's weekend workshops has not yet been available. We also welcome inquiries tour which will be held May 2 through 20. established, but A WI will be guided by its from small groups. We will be receptive The A WI tour will visit the United present workshop policy which is merely to bringing the weekend programs any­ Kingdom and Ireland. The size of the to recover the expenses involved in where a group of twelve interested tour is definitely limited; as of this writing presenting the workshop. As in existing clock repairers might be. there were still a few openings available. A WI workshops, A WI members will be During the mid-year Executive Com­ If you are interested, contact Kuoni given preference when space is limited mittee meeting, reports from almost Travel, Inc., 11 East 44th Street, New and also preference when it comes to every AWI committee were heard. Each York, NY, 10017, (212) 687-7190 at workshop fees. We anticipate having our reported on programs and progress to once. Kuoni has been handling A WI first workshop in the very near future. date. Here are some of the highlights tours for a number of years, and I can Judging by the acceptance of this from several of these reports. personally attest that their efficiency, new workshop on clock restoration, The Building Fund Committee re- (Continued on page 12)

6 Horological Times/April 1980 Here is an overview of the teclmological competence of Ebauches SA: Golden Quartz I Golden Quartz II Golden Quartz Ill Cal. 7%"' ESA/EEM - 932.161 Cal. 7%"' ESA/EEM 932.051 Cal. ESA/EEM 939.261 17.20 mm H 4.60 mm with battery ¢ 17.20 mm H 4.60 mm with battery ¢ 28.0 x 21 mm H. 0.95 mm 1 crown 1 crown Hours-min.-sec.-date-chrono. Hours-min.-sec.-month-date. Electronic hands Hours-min.-second indicator.

12 Digits LCD 6 Digits Multifunction + Multifunction Electronic Hands Cal. 13"' ESA/EEM 931.571 Cal. 13'" ESA/EEM 931.771 ¢ 29.0 mm H 4.80 mm ¢ 29.0 mm H 4.80 mm Hours-min.-sec.-day-date-multilingual­ Hours-min.-sec.-day-date-multilingual­ alarm-timer-T2-chrono 11100. alarm-T2-chrono 1/100.

Combo Cal. 11 Y2 ESA/EEM 900.231 - 900.911 ¢ 25.60 mm H 4.30 mm Hours-min.-sec.-date-chrono or alarm.

Ebauches Electroniques SA 2074 Marin Stand No. 2.201 Basie Fair 1980 Quartz leaf-type tuning fork, 32 kHz.

The infinite complexity of a microcircuit (enlarged approx. 20x).

®ETA SA Grenchen HiE!Hi !!!HE Hi Microelectronic Marin Stand No. 51-411 ,_...__,..__,,' I " Basie Fair 1980 ./#t;r/u,"/{}/ cal. 4114'" ESA/FHF 101.001

Another new product: The 3% x 10'" calibre I "BAGUETTE" Quartz. ESA/FHF 102 001. Case ,face and hands are interchangeable with those of the mechanized calibre ® 1 of the same type Fahrique d'Horlogerie (FHF 59-21). de Fontainemelon SA Stand No. 2.212 Basie Fair 1980 0 0

H 1.98 mm, including crystal and case. cal. ESA/ETA 999.001

H 1.44 mm, including crystal and case. cal. ESA/ETA 999.301

H 1.68 mm, including crystal and case. cal. ESA/ETA 999.401

@ETA SA Grenchen Stand No. 2.211 J Basie Fair 1980 AWi NEWS this prestigious award will be presented Committee. Since I have reported in some (Continued from page 6) in a future aritcle. detail about the activities of these two The Committee accepted with en­ committees in previous columns, I will thusiasm a new Affiliate Chapter re­ not dwell on them further at this time. combined with Henry B. Fried's un­ porting form which was developed by Another all-important report which matched skill as tour leader makes for Affiliate Chapter Director, Robert Bishop. was on the positive side came from a lifetime of pleasant memories. This form is designed to speed up reports Marvin E. Whitney, A WI Treasurer. Acting on the report from the at the Affiliate Chapter meeting, thus A WI's financial picture is strong and we Honor Awards Committee, chaired by allowing more time for discussion and are well on the way to achieving the Robert Phillip, the Executive Committee deliberation. goals set forth in this fiscal year's budget. worked out details for establishing the Very positive reports were received Mr. Whitney also presented the complete highest honor award which can be ob­ from Dorothy Aderman, Chairman of the financial audit which was prepared by tained from A WI. This award will be A WI Membership Committee, and from an outside firm of public accountants. known as "Fellow American Watchmakers Marshall Richmond, Chairman of the This audit showed AWi 's financial records Institute" (FAW!). Complete details of A WI Publicity and Public Relations and practices to be in good order. UCID

CANDIDATES FOR AWi BOARD OF DIRECTORS Listed Alphabetically

Charles Barnes Otto Benesh Willard Blakley ST. JOHNS, MICHIGAN CAPE CORAL, FLORIDA CINCINNATI, OHIO

Jay M. Foreman, Jr. Or vi lie R. Hagans Ewell D. Hartman LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA DENVER, COLORADO RICHMOND, VIRGINIA

12 Horological Times/April 1980 =

Thomas H. Imai A. Gray Lawrence Robert M. Leach SPOKANE, WASHINGTON OKMULGEE, OKLAHOMA URBANA, ILLINOIS

Henry Loeser Robert A. Nelson Robert Phillip TEANECK, NEW JERSEY MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA COOKSTOWN, ONTARIO, CANADA

Marshall Richmond Walter G. Riegler Paul D. Wadsworth Ml LAN, IN DIANA EAST BRUNSWICK, NEW JERSEY HILTON, NEW YORK

April 1980/Horo/ogical Times ] 3 Scholastically Speaking/ Joseph Rugole

his is the time of the year when the The Research and Education T American Watchmakers Institute Council could do no less than become seems to be bursting at the seams with an active participant in the educational activities and preparations for the annual Keeping Up program for which it was originally meeting. The Research and Education formed. The responsibility to educate Council being part of the program oc­ With The Times the watchmaker for the future has been cupies a significant portion of the annual placed in our hands, and we all know event. If someone were to analyze all that he will have to possess knowledge the activities, the first question that and skills which are much different would come to mind would be why from those in the past. The only way are so many dedicated people doing so we can achieve our goals is by being the much work for such a small reward. first to be informed about new develop­ The answer is not easy to find. I am ments in the industry and becoming sure that each individual who has found masters of the new skills. it necessary to get involved in the or- We must also become skillful ganizational work for AWI has his or in persuading the powers that be to do her own reasons. There is, however, a their part in reconstruction and reor­ common trend discernable among all. Joseph ganization of our programs. First and Our industry is currently experiencing Rugole, CMW foremost is the need to assist us to changes unequalled in any other period in the history of become competent in new technologies. Conferences and watchmaking. If the problems created were to be left unat­ seminars such as the one organized annually by REC are tended, the damage to one of the finest crafts could be ir­ essential for our development. No less important is the need to repairable. Ordinary men and women have risen to the chal­ provide the training facilities for new technology. lenge and become extraordinary leaders of a program of At this annual meeting, we hope to present seminars education which is not only solving current problems, but is at on the latest trends in the industry and also to organize a the same time developing new standards of competence for the display of the latest shop equipment available. We hope you future. will find it necessary and worthwhile to attend. Tempus fugit!

DIGITAL WATCH FOR WATCH MATERIALS REPAIR SUPPLIES TOOLS ENTIRE BRAND MODULE PRICES \f1ATCH FINDINGS Microma 4-5-F $6.00 $7.50 * CASTING SUPPLIES Microma Stopwatch 7.00 8.50 * Microma Chronograph 9.95 12.00 * Microma Ladies 7.00 8.50 * (*Less Batteries) CALL US! New Marcel Chrono Watches ...... $ 9.95 Nationwide Toll Free Number New Chrono-Alarm Watches ...... 14.95 Other LED & LCD modules & parts available. 1-800-231-0143 Above prices for Trade only. Texas Toll Free Number Limit per order. 1-800-392-6910 Contact:

United Digital Supply Co. STANLEY DONAHUE CO. OF HOUSTON, INC.

550 Mason Blvd. 600 N. Shepherd Suite 101 Jackson, Miss. 39212 Houston, Texas 77007 Phone: 601-372-3352 713-868-9311 OR 607 Carlisle Drive WRITE OR CALL FOR Herndon, VA 22070 FINDINGS AND TOOL CATALOGS Phone: 703-432-7766

14 Horological Times/April 1980 GUARTZ WATCH TIMER

Remote Probe .. Model 1050A -•0 ~"'

MODEL 1000

• Tests all digital watches. • Readout of error in seconds per month. • Fast or slow indication. • Battery tester. • Counter top usage. • Simple to use. • Full service guarantee.

Zantech's Model 1000 Digital Watch Monitor is a quartz watch (LED, LCD, Analog) tester and repair aid. It gives instantaneous readout of the watch's time base frequency without requiring electrical contact or disassembly of the watch. The Model 1000 is extremely accurate. Timing adjustments can be made quickly and easily with a minimum of effort. It is an indispensable tool for trouble shooting the oscillator circuit (quartz crystal. trimmer, etc.) of any quartz watch LED, LCD or Analog. Price $995.00 - inc. Analog Sensor. Probe - Model 1050A - $125.00 - inc. Analogue Sensor. FEATURES: Accuracy:- A 10MHz TCXO reference crystal insures :t 1 second per month reliability. Readout:- Seconds per month. Range: - ± 200 seconds per month. Frequency:- 32,768 Hz and 786, 432 Hz. Speed of Response:- Every 1/2 second the instrument senses and displays the watch accuracy. Sensitivity:- No contact is necessary, module frequencies can be sensed inches away from the sensor. EXTRA FEATURES: 1Y, and 3 volt supplementary power supply. Battery Tester withselectable high, medium and low drain load resistors. For further information regarding Model 1000, equipment, parts, training course or placing order. write or can ZANTECH, INC. Thank You

ZANTECH INC.· '13 GREENTREE ROAD. TRENTON, NEW JERSEY DB6'1B. 609 sss-soee

April 1980/Horologica/ Times IS Our Readers Write

Come On • • • Smile! In the March, 1980 issue of the Horological DIGESTING CROW UNDER WRAPS? 1Ymes, I found two letters on which I would like to comment. To: Joe Crooks I have received a number of my Horological The letter from Dick Lanings of I cannot tell you how impressed I was with Times issues in poor condition as a result of Lynden, WA, about cutting the information your article "Eating Crow" in the February the mails. forms out of the magazine found me in agree­ issue of the Horological Times; so much so, ment. While he specified Mr. Rugole's articles I felt I had to jot a few words sh.owing my The December issue which I received being on the other side (which I also find appreciation. is in really terrible condition. The last half of interesting and very helpful), I dislike cutting The fact is, the best of us make the magazine is literally tom to shreds. Would anything from my copy regardless of whether mistakes on occasion and, all too often, rather you please send me another copy? or not the article on the other side is of interest than admit a mistake we have a tendency to Also, may I suggest that you provide to me today; it may very well be the answer to let it ride or blow over, thus giving the watch­ a paper wrapper over the magazine in future a problem next month or next year. I am sure maker in the field more problems than he mailings to keep it in good condition? Thank there is a solution to this problem and maybe already has. you. someone will come up with one. We both think highly of Henry As for Rick Anderson's statement Frystak and your article not only pays tribute Joseph Tallal that the Horological 1Ymes is a trade journal, to a good technician, but lends more credibility Rio Rancho, NM this, of course, is true. As for the silly cartoons, to the informative technical data that you I read one time that smiling is contagious and yourself distribute, so urgently needed by the most cartoons do get a smile. Now if this is watch technician in the field today. true and you do catch the smiling habit, think Editor's Note-We have enclosed a copy of the what effect this could have on your customers. You have taken what could be a December issue and hope that it is in better So keep a little spot in the Horological 1Ymes ticklish situation and corrected it in a concise, condition than your original copy. for a smile, because with today's continuous expert manner, making it palatable for all. Your suggestion regarding having the cost rise, there is very little else to smile about! magazine wrapped has been under considera­ Herb Novick tion for some time here at A WI Central. Ho.pe· J.E. Brack Bulova Watch Co. fully, in the future, cost permitting, this may Houston, TX Jackson Heights, NY become a reality.

O.U.Q~TZ rI!.QTLM REPAIR CENTER DIGITAL/ANALOG OFFER YOUR CUSTOMERS: * 2 WEEKS TURN-AROUND * MODULE REPAIR/SPECIALIZING IN REBUILDING PULSARS *ALL MAKES AND MODELS

16 Horological 1Ymes/April 1980 You could spend around $3000 for a digital promotional display. display multi-function rate measuring in­ Pay $2000 or $3000 for a timer? Ridiculous. strument. Now that Citizen's CQT-101 is here. But it isn't necessary. Place your order with your material house The Citizen CQT-101 can measure not only or directly to Citizen Watch Company. For quartz watches (analog and digital) but also more information, write: Citizen Watch Co. of tuning fork and balance wheel watches with Ame:r: ica, Inc., Service Headquarters, 12140 all the accuracy you need. W. Oly~pic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90064. Its measuring range is from 0.01 second a Tel.: (213) 826-6541. day to ±399 seconds per day. To monitor various types of watches and clocks, you simply change the microphone. The CQT-101 is the only quartz timing in­ O CITIZEN We sell with you, not through you. strument you'll ever need. And even when it's not helping you build *Suggested retail. Price does not include shipping and mic­ rophone for mechanical watches. Sales tax additional in your service business, its attractive, profes­ California. sional look makes it in an effective in-store Some Innovative Ideas and Design Changes in the Hamilton Chronometer By Marvin E. Whitney rom Eli Whitney's ideas on parts interchangeability developed F modern production methods which revolutionized the manufac­ ture of fine watches. However, until 1941, ship chronometers were still largely produced abroad by the hands of skilled craftsmen. Whenever the possibility of mass producing chronometers was raised, many of the old time chronometer makers said it couldn't be done. However, Hamilton defied tradition by developing modem production equipment and designing and producing over 12,000 chronometers-and this in a hurry, for our Navy could not wait. With any production item, particularly in the watch industry, there has always been a constant striving to produce more accurate parts to permit greater and more reliable interchangeablilty and superior per­ formance. So it was with the Hamilton chronometer. Inquiries have been made by several repairmen who, in examining and comparing several Hamiltons, have noted differences in their construc­ tion. These differences are the result of various design changes that occurred during the production of this instrument. There were 43 2 design changes made during the development and production of the Hamilton. These changes covered the gamut that one would suspect in such a phenomenal effort. In some cases, the change was no more than a change in a screw thread, endshake tolerance, or a finish; In other instances, it was done to simplify a machining or assembling operation, or deemed necessary for the sake of excellence. Listed chronologically are the most significant design changes that occurred during the production of the Hamilton chronometer. It is hoped that the inclusion of this information will benefit the inquisitive repairman

!"------~· 18 Horological Times/April 1980 Oct. 10, 1944. E. W. DRESCHER 2,360,113 TIMEPIECE SETTING DEVICE War II, I asked Mr. Ernest W. Drescher, Push Filed Aug. 18, 1942 Piece who was in charge of Hamilton's Chro­ nometer Design Section, about this charge by Dr. Rawlings. His reply was that if it had not been a matter of ex­ treme expedience, Hamilton's version of the ship's chronometer would in no way resemble the so-called "modern" chronometer. It probably would have been very similar to Hamilton's Model 22 chronometer watch-possibly free sprung and having a slightly larger dial with a sweep second hand. I I Mr. Drescher was also the ,' 0 inventor of the ingenious safety setting device that was used on the Hamilton i © Model 22 chonometer watch, for which 0 he was granted a patent, No. 2,360,133, on October I 0, 1944. See Figure 1. Mr. Drescher also had two other rather novel ideas patented pertaining to the suspension and supporting system of the chronometer during transit. The first was a Cantilever _;-_Jf...c q _. _]__ Support for Gimbal Carried Instruments, patent No. 2,425,602 granted August 12, 194 7. See Figure 2. This invention provided a resilient support for a gimbaled suspended instrument which relieved the gimbal screw pivots from the weight of the instrument while it was being trans­ ported, thus protecting them from damage. Heretofore, chronometers were supplied with a bracketed gimbal latch that locked the gimbal and bowl, and thus prevented any movement of the gim bal and bowl while in transit. Yet such a latch still allowed the total weight of the chronometer to be supported by the gimbal pivots. These pivots, generally of brass, were part of the delicate gimbal Jwv.....-1<><- arrangement and were small in relation ERNE ST W.DRESCHER to the weight of the chonometer sup­ ported. During shipment, the chronom­ eter could often be damaged due to incompetent handling. A fall or sudden jar would throw the weight of the chro­ nometer against the gimbal pivots, bending the pivots and ruining the action Figure 1. Safety Setting Device, patented by E.W. Drescher, used on Hamilton's of the gimbal. Model 22 Chronometer Watch. (The various numbers shown are used to identify We found this to be very true the parts in the descriptive explanation of the patent.) in some of the instruments being returned to the Observatory for an overhaul. as well as those who, in years to come, nearly 150 years. Dr. Arthur L. Rawlings, Instruments leaving the Observatory for may wish to further pursue the develop­ a noted scientist in the British Admiralty a specific ship east of the Mississippi ment of the world's first mass produced Office of Scientific Research and an River were always hand carried, running chronometer. authority on timepieces, wrote and and set to Greenwich Mean Time. How­ However, before dealing with challenged chronometer makers by saying, ever, chronometers for ships on the the actual design changes, let me digress "It seems to be time that somebody West Coast, or those being returned to a moment and say something about introduced a new design embodying some a supply depot and/or navy yard, were the statement that was often made by of the ideas that have emerged during the corked, locked in their gim bal, placed a few horologists that other than the past 150 years, and aim at the production in their transporting cases, and crated. introduction of the Guillaume balance, of a more convenient and accurate in­ Mr. Drescher's support system little change had occurred in the con­ strument at about half the price." consisted of a pair of pivoted cantilever struction of the ship's chronometer for During the early part of World arms which swung in under the chronom-

April 1980/Horological Times 19 There Is a VIGOR® Alli'. 12, 1947. .E. W. DRESCHER 2,425,602 CANTILEVER SUPPORT FOR GIMBAL CARRIED INSTRUMENTS Polisher-Grinder-Dust Collector Pivots A and C Filed Jon. 1 ~. 1945 Right Cantilever support chronometer lever in u n I ocked position. in gimbal. B and D FIG. I To Suit Your Needs support gimbal in box. D

28

II

7

23

DOUBLE SPINDLE position. • Y2 HP - 3450 RPM The POWERHOUSE 5 • Measures: 331/4" x 21%"x103/4" 27 • Complete with spindles 25 DC-2000 $230.00

Figure 2. Cantilever Support for Gimbal Chronometer which provides a means for supporting the weight of the chronometer during shipment. • 1/3 HP - 3450 RPM The "ECONOMY MODEL" eter and locked against the chronometer bowl. See Figure 2. • Measures:201/4"x 171/4"x12" A spring arrangement provided a slight upward thrust on the • Complete with spindles supports, thus preventing any downward movement of the DC-2025 $175.00 chronometer against the gimbal pivots. Mr. Drescher's other patent, No. 2,433,509, granted December 30, 194 7, was for a Chronometer Box Securing Support which isolated the chronometer box with its gimbaled chronometer from vibrations and also protected it against shock. See Figure 3. The chronometer box with its gimbaled chronometer was secured in a resilient mounted support which was housed entirely within the carrying case. The support had no detach­ able parts, a feature which prevented the loss or misplacement SINGLE of any components but still allowed the chronometer box SPINDLE to be easily secured or released. • 1/3 HP - 3450 RPM In the past, chronometer boxes were fitted into a For "LIMITED" REQUIREMENTS padded felt-lined carrying case. This arrangement gave little • Measures:153/a"x17"x101/4" if any protection against vibrations or shock while it was • Complete with spindle being transported. DC-1050 $138.00 The carrying case- used here was of the usual construc­ B. JADOW & SONS, I NC. tion. Rigidly secured to the sides of the lower section of the New York, N.Y. case were angle brackets upon which the chronometer box Available through Jewelry/Lapidary Supply Houses shock absorbing supports were mounted. Secured to the rubber supports are felt-covered squared tubes which are connected

20 Horological Times/April 1980 ?~~ / ; : • fl • I •• ,. • - "' "' ::.';~... #. Dec. 30, 1947. E. W. DRESCHER 2,433,509

Chronometer CHRONOMETER BOX SECURING SUPPORT Box Filed l'eb. 21, 1945

' ..

Compression Knurled Spring 28

rt INVENTOR. ERNEST W. DRESCHER BY --4- A ~/ /cl~~ ATTY.

Figure 3. Chronometer Box Securing Support, which pro· vides a vibration and shock resisting mounting for the Chronom­ eter Box. to a front and rear angle brace, thus forming a hollow square to receive the chronometer box. Within the squared tubes are a pair of supporting bearings in which a slideable rod is mounted. Figure 3 shows the important components of this invention. The end of each rod is threaded, and on it is placed a cap nut which bears against a clamping bar loosely carried by the rod. The felt-covered clamping bar is held securely against the cap nut by a coil compression spring extending between the clamping bar and the rear bearing. The threaded end of the rod has a knurled nut which bears against a sleeve and through the sleeve to the stationary forward bearing. Any adjustment of the knurled nut causes the clamping bar to move back and forth with the rods. The lugs are keyed to the rods and, being square, prevent any rotation of the rods when the knurled nuts are moved. When the chronometer box is placed in the carrying case, it is held loosely within the square formed by the tubes and the front and rear angle braces. The knurled nut is then THE GOULD COMPANY turned on the rods which moves the rear clamping bar forward, 13750 Neutron Road • Dallas, Texas 75234 bringing the box in contact with the felt-covered front angle brace, and thus secures the chronometer box in the vibration­ absorbing supporting tubes. One can readily see that by re- IMlll!llUi'mfl!ttlB

April 1980/Horological Times 21 • versing the knurled nuts, the box is performance after the installation of the rate obtained during the pre and post quickly freed of the clamping action shock absorber was nearly the same as vibrating and simulator test, they showed and can be easily and readily removed. when these instruments were new. Only very little variation. However, during To my knowledge, neither of a variance of a few hundredths of a the entire test, at no time did the mean Mr. Drescher's latter two inventions second was noted in any of the eight daily rate exceed 1.55 seconds, nor did were ever accepted by the Navy. How­ performance areas tested. the mean deviation exceed 0.50 seconds­ ever, during my years at the Observa­ the Navy's tolerances for new chronom­ tory, the aforementioned problems, which The three instruments were then eters. Thus emerged additional proof Mr. Drescher's invention eliminated, mounted in their respective gimbals and of the outstanding engineering that were of great concern and often discuss­ placed on a vibrating machine for a went into the construction of this very ed. It was not until Mr. Drescher got period of one week. The machine was fine instrument. None of these three interested in the problems and put stopped only while the instruments were instruments were ever tested aboard a his creative mind to work that a solu­ being wound and their respective errors ship at sea. tion was found. tabulated. Upon the conclusion of this test, they were mounted on a machine Another innovative idea that While we are discussing some which simulated the rolling and pitching Hamilton experimented with was re­ rather innovative ideas, let me describe movements of a ship at sea. Again, the placing the fusee chain with a ribbon several other ideas on which some ex­ operation of the machine was continuous of stainless steel. They were able to roll periments were performed. As in a the ribbon of stainless steel narrow watch, the parts of a chronometer that are except during the winding of the error re­ cording operation. At the completion of enough to work within the grooves of most likely to suffer from shock are the these two tests, the three instruments the fusee, and tensile stress tests proved pivots of the balance staff. Therefore, the that it was strong enough to sustain the Observatory did some experimenting with were returned to the test chambers where again they were subjected to the same torque of the mainspring. However, they a shock-proof device. Three Hamiltons, test sequence as new instruments. encountered difficulty in adapting a hook numbers 8211, 8504, and 8575 , were or a means of attaching the ribbon to selected at ramdom and equipped with a When a comparison of the mean the barrel and fusee. modified version of the Erismann and daily rates was made, the greatest error Schinz Super Shock Resist. These three occurred while the instruments were on One can see that some rather instruments were then regulated and the vibrating machine. However, when innovative ideas were tried which, to some placed on test, following the same test the mean daily rates obtained while the degree, negate Dr. Rawling's charges. sequence to which new instruments were instruments were on the simulator were To return to the design changes subjected. The results showed that the compared with the largest mean daily that occurred during the construction of the Hamilton chronometer, if you Figure 4. Hamilton Marine Chronometer Detent. should have a problem that is difficult to analyze, the answer may be forth­ coming from the following descriptions of these design changes. I am sure we all realize that not all of these changes were incorporated in every instrument. Although the newly designed part (if that was what was entailed) may not now be at your disposal, at least you will have some idea as to what has to be done. By drawing upon your own repair experi­ ences, you can execute your own design change or the necessary alteration and/or repair.

Date: 9-22-42. Marine Chronometer De­ tent Escapement Assembly. See Figure 4. Convex Gold The design of the detent support block Stop Button was provided with a convex crown gold stop button for the detent in place of the original milled flat surfaced stop. On 11-23-42, changed from 0.0030" thick This revised design eliminated a condi­ Beryllium Copper to 0.00190" thick Hamilton tion of misalignment generally existing Elinvar. Straight Trip between the flat face of the abutment Spring and the detent assembly. The trip spring

JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL OF WATCHMAKING Quality Instruction Since 1945 b . if you 're not doing it. WATCHMAKI NG-WATCH REPAIR--BASIC ELECTRONICS .. . You Should Be ... Ideal housing, dining, recreation NATTS approved, BEOG available using your AW! casemark! 40-24 62 St., Woodside, N. Y. 11377, (212)424-2929

22 Horological Times/April 1980 1 i was redesigned as a straight flat spring Date: 11-2-4 2. Marine Chronometer Fusee allowing the pinion to sit firmly on the to eliminate the bej\d previously re­ Chain. A new part was added in the shoulder of the fusee arbor without quired. redesigning of the fusee chain. In the interference from the slight fillet at the Because of the change in the barrel-end and fusee-end hook, the thin intersection of the pinion diameter and trip spring, the angle bracket was changed portion penetrated by the link pin was shoulder face on the arbor. from an "L" to a "Z" shape so as to reduced in thickness so as to coincide On the fusee end plate, the dis­ provide a seat for the straight trip spring. with the same thickness as that of the tance between the bottom of the semi­ links. It was proven that the hook was circular groove (which receives the Date: 10-1-42. Marine Chronometer Plates sufficiently strong with this reduced thick­ wedge pin and determines the endshake and Bridges. Corner dimensions were ness, and thus it was easier to finish the of the fusee assembly) and the opposite applied to all jewel and bushing holes entire surface of the chain when the face of the plate was increased from so as to eliminate the burring difficulties extra thickness at the end of the chain .072±1 in. to .07S±l in. so as to com­ encountered when jewels or bushing was removed. pletely eliminate the possibility of were pressed fit into the holes. The link pin was increased from excessive endshake in the assembly. The engraving on the plates .040 in. to .045 in. so as to provide more See Figure SB. and bridges was changed to Gorton material for the riveting operation. copy No. 760-1 for all numerals and Date: 11-23-42; Marine Chronometer Gorton standard Gothic copy for all Date: 11-5-42. Marine Chronometer De­ Detent Trip Spring. The material for letters, instead of Gorton standard Gothic tent Support Block. The finish for the the detent trip spring was changed from for both numerals and letters. support block was changed from "No. 1 .0030 ±s in. thick beryllium copper to emery finish all over" to "No. 1 emery .00190 + S in. thick Hamilton Elinvar Date: 10-10-42. Marine Chronometer finish on all exterior surfaces except and the reduced thickness at the flexing Hole Jewels. A slight oliving of the hole the face into which the steady pins region of the spring was eliminated. This and a rounding of the bottom edge of were inserted." change was made on the basis of satis­ the hole was added. These revisions factory performance of the new type were made to eliminate marred pivots Date: 11-11-42. Marine Chronometer of spring, its superior appearance, and the in both assembly and operation of the Fusee Detail. On the wind indicator elimination of the filing previously chronometers. pm10n a .010 in. chamfer at 4SO was required to secure a soft action spring. specified for both ends of the hole. Additional design changes in the Date: 10-12-42. Marine Chronometer See Figure SA. A change was made so Hamilton Chronometer will continue Dial. The marine chronometer dial was only one end of the hole was chamfered, next month. UCIB revised with respect to the types of numerals and the finish. The orbit Figure 5 . Design change in fusee. numerals were altered from a plain Gothic type to a modern Roman style. The style of the numerals for the serial number and the year was specified as

Gorton copy No.760-1. The background Fusee finish was modified from a dull white Wheel silver plate to a vertical-brush, fine line, white silver finish. This change started around number 340. Wedge Date: 10-23-42. Marine Chronometer Pin Escape Pinion and Balance Staff. The length of the escape pinion was reduced from .870±2 in. to .866±1 in . and that of the balance staff from 1.060 + 2 in. to 1.056±1 in. On the pinion, the dimen­ sion of the height to which the escape wheel was staked was correspondingly reduced from .260 in to .256 in. and the height of the wheel was altered from Semicircular groove . 160±2 in. to .156±2 in. This revision was increased . was done in order to reduce the jobbing of pivots and confine endshake cor­ rections to machining of the endstone Wind Indicator Pi n ion. caps. Both ends were chamfered.

Do You Know SINCE 1877 WATCH/JEWELRY REPAIR & STONE SETTING BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL LOW TUITION RATES 220 West King Street, Lancaster, Pa. 17603 Offers you the most comprehensive courses in Fully Accredited - Individual Instruction Watchmaking and Repairing Clockmaking and Repairing 35 Years of Service to Industry Jewelry Repairing and Stonesetting Engraving KILGORE COLLEGE Send for free brochure 1100 Broadway, Kilgore, Tex. 75662 - Ph. (214) 984-8531 An Equal Opportunity Facility

April 1980/Horological Times 23 Questions and Answers/ Henry B. Fried

Croton R23 Chronograph Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FBHI

I have a vexing problem that I've That is it. I don't know which way contact with the heart cam cheeks, worked on until I'm ready to walk to go now or what to look for. Thank there is no reason why the seconds hand Q lp the wall. It is a Croton R23 you for any help you can give me. won't stay put and return to the exact chronograph. It was serviced over a year Bill Swanson spot every time. ago and was about perfect in timing and Buford, GA Sometimes in such cases, aftn all other functions. all this is done, the hand does return Our customer dived into some cold When a chronograph or stop watch consistently to the exact spot, but try. mountain water with a hot watch on a seconds hand fails to return to zero as you might, you can't get its initial hot arm. Later on he noticed conden­ A there can be a few reasons for the placement exactly at zero; it is a fifth or sation under the crystal so he told me. malfunction. One is that the seconds maybe a tenth of a second off In such He did not bring it right in the same day hand is not absolutely tight on the cases, the tiny configurations of the or the next day, but over a week later seconds hand post. It may appear tight, post/pivot and inside of the hand tube after it had stopped. Of course, you but be loose enough merely to shift from won't allow this. When this occurs, some know the result-some rust. one spot on the seconds hand tube a watchmakers will simply grasp the hand He did not want a complete over­ degree or less in either direction. To near its base and bend it that one degree haul job as we suggested- said he could discover this, place the seconds hand tube or less. This is imperceptible and it works. not afford it-but that if we would just in a well-fitting pin vise or lathe chuck, Best of luck! get it "dried out" and running again grasp moderately tightly so as not to he'd be most grateful. The whys and pinch the tube or pipe, and under good wherefores we'll omit as it would take magnification, move the hand manually. too long, but we reluctantly accepted Most often, not only can you see and Thank you for your prompt atten­ the job as this is an old customer and a detect the fine movement, but also you tion to my problem. I'm having pretty good one. can feel the movement as well. Qrrouble with a l 9L Landeron 26, Now the problem. We're unable The second reason this may shift 8-day, stem wind, time only, double to get the sweep hand back to an ab­ is that the pinion-post or post carrying dial clock. I can't figure out how to solute zero. I don't do these very often the hand on the wheel may be slightly take the movement down. It has a gear and must have forgotten something. loose. Examine this carefully also by train from the pillar plate side of the (Being at the bench for 38 years, I guess securing the pinion or post in a lathe movement to drive the hands on the you're bound to forget some things now chuck and, grasping the wheel in the opposite side, making it a double dial and then!) Twenty-one times I have tried fingers, shift the wheel back and forth. clock. to get that sweep hand to stop on zero Some place the seconds hand on the BESTFIT Catalog p. 348 shows when I press the return button. During wheel post rather securely while both the clock movement, bridge side. The these trials, one of the first things checked hand and wheel are out of the watch large wheel and small pinion shown was that the S.S. hand was secure on the and make both tests. in the photo to be on the right side is pipe and it is. I came to find out that A third cause of failure to return what is giving me a fit. The wheel/pinion it is erratic in its return no matter where the hand to zero is that the heart cam must be removed somehow from the the S.S. hand is secured. and its hammer or both have become shaft in order to take the movement Here are some sample tests made: out of alignment. When checking the down to remove the mainspring. I've heart cam-hammer action, remember that tried prying and twisting to no avail. both cheeks of the heart cam must I have taken this movement to two other No. of seconds run Point of return contact the hammer or vice-versa. Some­ watchmakers for help, but they can't (In relation times in a case such as yours, where figure out how to take the movement to "o•) rust has set in (you should never have down. accepted a partial repair on a rusted Any help you can give me will IS +2 sec. watch, especially a chronograph) the be appreciated. 2S +1 sec. hammer and the cam are no longer in 2S +IY.asec. alignment after these parts have had Harold L. Mason 32 -*sec. their rust spots removed. Sunnyvale, CA 46 -Y.z sec. If you have the seconds hand tight, 50 --3~ sec. the centered wheel and pinion secure on SS -4~ sec. . each other, the seconds hand tube very I think that we can solve your tight on the center arbor post or pivot, problem. In order for the (front) After adjustments: the heart cam cheeks polished smooth, A dial train to empower the rear lubricated, and positively contacted by dial train, some means must be had 20 -3'hoSee. both surfaces of the V beak of the to connect the two. In ordinary time- IS -4Y.a sec. hammer, and the hammer spring quite strong enough to have the hammer make (Continued on page 65)

24 Horological Times/April 1980 FREEi Si .JS.trel GROUP

We offer the best batteries, the best system and the best prices.

6-Watch Batteries FREE

LIMITED OFFER ORDER TODAY Just for ordering the Six-Pak System, Today!

That's ri9.b.!,l Borel will give a Free Six-Pak, #392 cells, to the first one hundred phone orders received for the Six-Pak Sys­ SIX-PAK WATCH BATIERY SYSTEM. tem. Your choice of trays-with order of 120 cells (20 SIX-PAKS) Borel wants you to try the System. We want you to enjoy the extra profit you can earn with the System. The Six~Pak System makes it possible for you to replace more watch batteries in less time ... at lower cost. The Six-Pak is easy to use. Slide open, remove one or more cells, slide closed, return Six-Pak to stock. Tray is open for easy inventory control. MAXI-SYSTEM holds up to 96 Six-Paks. Tray Free with 20 Six-Pak order To complete the system Borel designed two special trays for stocking the Six-Paks. You can start your system with an order for 120 cells; that's 20 Six-Paks; we'll give you the tray. Select either the Mini-System which fits yourbench drawer and will hold up to 324 cells; or, chose the Maxi-System which stocks up to 576 cells, with extra space for a battery tester, tweezers and case openers. Place your order today. We'll include a Six-Pak of #392 cells with your order, free of charge. Borel has the best System and MINI-SYSTEM holds up to 342 cells. the best prices, too! So, call our Toll-Free Order Desk, now. Be Tray Free with 20 Six-Pak order among the first to get a Free Six-Pak. - 1·800·821·5686 FREE In Missouri 1-800-892-5818

BOREL GROUP 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, Mo. 64106 .Jlnrel Seven warehouses to serve you GROUP KANSAS CITY MIAMI OAKLAND SAN FRANCISCO I Order20Six-Pakstoday, and we will give you LOS ANGELES CLEVELAND NEW YORK FREE • six #392 cells, l1m1ted to first 100 orders.

April 1980/Horologica/ Times 25 Solid State Terms/Louis A. Zanoni

[§L.[]55R~ll [Jr EL.ELT~aruir: T~~ill5 Part 11 Louis A. Zanoni

This is the second article in a series dedicated to the under­ Elastomer This is made up of a series of rubber bumps standing of electronic terms. The dotted line toward the button molded into a plastic frame. The rubber inside of the page can serve as a handy cutting line, so that connector bumps are impregnated with conductive these articles can be collected and kept in a convenient spot particals so that the bumps are conductive. near a watchmakers's bench. They are used to make electrical connec­ tion between the LC display and the substate.

Energy The capacity for action. The ability of some­ D thing to do work. Power in action. Decoder In electronic circuits, it is the circuit which Epoxy An adhesive system which requires two converts a string of single pulses at its input separate chemicals to be mixed together to a combination of pulses at its output to form a thermo-setting resin capable of which form the number 0 to 9. forming tight, cross-linked polymer structures. Diffuser Anything that causes something else to spread out or disperse. In an LCD watch, it is the reflector panel behind the display which F diffuses the ambient light so that the dis­ Field Effect Something that responds to electric fields play background will appear uniform. without requmng current flow. Certain liquid crystal materials respond to electric Digit A group of 7 or more segments which form fields without requiring a current flow. numbers or letters by activating various When this liquid is placed between two pieces combinations of segments. of conducting glass, it is known as a field effect display. Digital That pertaining to digits; that which uses numbers to perform numerical functions. Fixed Cap Fixed value capacitor, not changeable. A chip cap is a small fixed capacitor. Digit Driver Usually a transistor which controls the cur­ rent flow through an entire digit of an LED. Flux A substance applied when soldering that prevents oxide formation and aids the flow Display Something that presents visual information. of solder. In the watch, it is the dial of an analog, the light emitting diode of an LED, and the Frequency Repetition rate-in electronics it is the rate liquid crystal display of an LCD. at which a voltage charges from plus to minus. Display The energy which is consumed by the display Current only. The LED requires a very high current Frequency An electronic circuit which produces a very to light it, while the LCD requires very, standard accurate oscillating voltage which is used very little current. as a reference to compare the accuracy of other oscillators. Divider A sequential string of electronic divider Chain circuits. Frit Fused materials used in making glass. It is the cement which binds the top and bottom Divider A circuit which generates one pulse at its glass of the LC display together. Circuit output for every two pulses presented to its input. Functions Functions are the features available on the watch. For example, a 6-function watch DSM Abbreviation for Dynamic Scattering Mode. has hours, minutes, seconds, month, date, This is the type of liquid crystal material and day of week. Other features include: used in the first liquid crystal watch displays. chronograph, stop watch, alarm, extra time zone, chimes, calendar, etc. E Elastomer A synthetic substance having the elastic properties of natural rubber. Continued next month

26 Horological Times/April 1980 You could be selling Maxell batteries right now.

Some of the world's most respected makers customers with an extensive line of high quality of calculators and fine watch instruments and precision manufactured battery products. factory-install Maxell Silver Oxide Batteries. It's obvious, Maxel I shou Id be the Because they can't risk a battery failure which replacement battery line you feature for all could damage their product. And electronic applications. After all, we their reputation. have your reputation to protect Maxel I knows that the key to as well. your Battery Replacement Business Maxel I Corporation of America is personally servicing the needs of your 60 Oxford Drive, Moonachie, New Jersey 07074

••••••••••••••••••••• ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• •••••••••••••••••••••

BATTERY PRODUCTS DIVISION

April 1980/Horological Times 27 ost watch bands made in the last twenty years are de­ Msigned to be adjusted for length by removing or re­ placing links. The method used varies with the make WATCH CASES and style of band. Although a design is patented by one com­ pany, other companies develop a similar design which is ad­ justed in about the same manner. AND THEIR One band that is easy to adjust without the need of 1980 tools is the J-B multi-size expansion band. There is a section ACCESSORIES © in the band where links can be removed or replaced. Usually two or three links can be removed and any number can be Part 10 added. Note: Extra links are supplied with the new band or they can be obtained from the distributor or obtained from the company that makes the band. The adjustable links can be identified since they are the only links in the band that have the patent numbers stamped on the covers of the Watch Ban_ds bottom links. These links can also be identified by the elongated slots in the bottom of the upper links. The heads of the rivets on the lower links work in these slots. One part An_d of the slot is enlarged enough for the head of the rivet to enter the slot or to be removed from the slot. To remove or Case Gaskets replace links in this band, the following method is used. While facing the bottom side of the band, grasp the band in both hands where the links are to be removed. Now stretch the band out as in Figure 1. While the band is in this stretch­ By Archie Perkins ed position, push on one of the lower links to cause its rivet to go down the slot to the enlarged section of the slot so the head of the rivet can be removed from the slof See Figure 2. There is a snapping action when the head of the rivet goes from the slot to the enlarged portion of the slot. Now that • the head of the rivet has been removed from its connecting link, see Figure 3, the other rivet can be removed in the same manner by pushing on the other lower link until the rivet snaps into the hole in the slot and can be removed from the upper link. Other links can be removed in the same manner. To reassemble the links, use the reverse procedure. While the two parts of the band are held in the hands in a stretched position, place the head of one of the rivets into the hole of the slot in the connecting link, then pull on the two links until the rivet snaps into the slot. Now place the head of the other rivet into the hole of the other connecting link and pull on the links until the rivet snaps into its slot. Another band that is easy to adjust by removing and re­ Figure 1 placing links is the Duchess "custom size" expansion band. This band is made in both gents and ladies type. At each end of this band are some links that do not expand. These links are the ones that are removed when the band needs short­ ening. Other links can be added at this point to lengthen the band. Note: Extra links are supplied with the new band or can be obtained from the distributor or maker of the band. The links are designed in the following manner. One end of the link has two folding tabs that have a hole at the point near where they bend. These holes are used to hold the connecting link. The other nd f the link ha two pro­ jections that fit into the hot of the folding clips. This band is shown in Figures 4, 5, and 6. To remov and replace links in this band, the following proc dure is u ed. Us a screw­ driver as in Figure 4 to pry up one of the tabs, then the pro­ jections on the connecting link can be removed from the holes in the two tabs. Figure 5 shows the links separated. Figure 2 Now the desired links can be removed by using the same

28 Horological Times/April 1980 procedure. To close the band, the pro­ jections are placed into the holes in the connecting link and the tab is closed down with the screwdriver as is shown in Figure 6. A very important responsibility the watchmaker has to his customer is the proper selection and fitting of a new case gasket. Much damage can be done to the watch movement if an improper gasket has been installed and the cus­ tomer gets the watch in water. To do the proper kind of job, a complete under­ standing of the different styles of water­ resistant cases and gaskets is necessary. Opening a watch case is a very im­ portant operation. If improper methods are used, much damage can be done. First F igure3 the case must be examined for con­ Figure 6 struction to determine how it was assem­ bled and how it is to be opened. If the back of the case has notches or grooves cut into the back, it is evident that the case is a water-resistant case and a wrench is needed to open it. When there are no notches for a case wrench, then chances are the case is a snap back case. Snap back cases have a lip somewhere around the back where the back joins the body of the case. This lip is designed to accom­ modate a knife blade or case opener of similar construction used to snap the back from the body of the case. If the back looks solid without notches, then the case may be a one piece case where the movement comes out through the Figure 7 Figure 4 crystal opening after the crystal is re­ moved. This type of assembly usually has a two piece stern which is separated by pulling apart in order to release the movement from the case after the crystal is removed. This style of case assembly may not have a gasket at all. To open and close water-resist­ ant watch case backs requiring a wrench, a case vise is needed as well as a wrench that fits the notches or grooves 'in the back. Figure 7 shows a common type of case vise that holds the case securely while the back is opened or closed. A similar style vise made of wood can also be obtained which works well. Figure 8 shows an adjustable case wrench which works well for opening water-resistant cases. This wrench comes with four sets Figure 5 of jaws to fit different style case backs. Figure 8 There are times when a case back is very difficult to remove. This requires a very positive heavy duty case opener. One of these is shown in Figure 9. This case .. WATCHES by ARCHIE B. PERKINS, CMW (All rights reserved by the author)

April 1980/HoroloJ?.ical Times 29 Figure 9 Figure 10 Figure 11 opener has an adjustable vise to hold the of the case is usually all that is needed surement equals the width of the gasket. case securely. The wrench has three to order a gasket on most standard These three measurements are listed on prongs which will fit cases with three or brand watches. If the watch is not a the chart that comes with gasket assort­ six notches. There is an attachment standard brand, then the case would ments. Figure 13 shows the case being that will fit cases that have other shaped need to be measured for the new gasket measured for a new gasket when it fits backs. A close-up of the vise and case and one selected from an assortment of inside the body of the case. wrench is shown in Figure 10. Many gaskets. The first choice should be a gen­ The following illustrations show times the watch manufacturer furnishes a uine gasket made for the specific watch some of the most common water-resistant wrench made especially for each model of case. If a genuine gasket cannot be ob­ case and gasket combinations. Figure 14, case. tained, then one would have to be select­ View A, shows a screw back case which It is also important to know how to ed from an assortment. One good assort­ has a groove cut around the back side of measure the case for a new gasket and ment of gaskets is the Borel assortment. the body of the case to receive the gas­ how to order a new gasket. This assortment has 72 sizes, with outside ket (a). A ledge (b) on the back of the Case gaskets are mainly made from diameters from 15 .00 mm to 3 7 .5 5 mm case comes down on top of the gasket as one of three kinds of material: lead, rub­ and inside diameters from 13.20 mm to the back is screwed into the body of the ber, or plastic. Most gaskets have a rec­ 35.15 mm with width of bands from .50 case. This case could just as well have a tangular cross section shape, except the to 1.25 mm. These gaskets are made of circular groove and an "O" ring gasket very popular "O" ring gasket which has a plastic. fitted to it. Figure 14, View B, shows one round cross section. Some gaskets are To measure the case, see Figures 11 of the most common case and gasket plastic with an oval shaped cross section. and 12. Figure 11 shows the case being combinations. The gasket (a) is fitted to Lead gaskets always have a rectangular measured to determine the inside diam­ the back of the case and is tightened cross section. eter of the new gasket when the gasket against the body of the case as the back is Any time a gasket becomes dis­ fits on the back of the case. If the shoul­ screwed into the body of the case. The torted, damaged, or has deteriorated, it der of the case where the gasket fits threaded part of the back is undercut for must be replaced. Otherwise the case around is undercut for the gasket, then the gasket to fit into. Therefore, when cannot be made water-resistant, which the caliper jaws should go to the bottom this case is measured for a new gasket, it defeats the purpose of the gasket. If an of the groove for the correct inside is measured at the bottom of the groove improper gasket is selected that doesn't measurement. Otherwise the gasket in order to get the proper measurement fit the case, its purpose is also defeated. fits too loosely around the shoulder. Fig­ for the inside of the new gasket. Case gaskets can be obtained in assort­ ure 12 shows the case being measured to View C, Figure 14, shows a com­ ments or sometimes can be bought for determine the outside diameter of the mon style case and gasket design in which the specific watch case if it is a standard gasket. The difference between the in­ the gasket (a) fits into the body of the case make of watch. The number in the back side measurement and the outside mea- against a ledge and the back (b) screws

PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE Learn Jewelry Technology/Watch Repairing Gemology for the Jeweler/Jewelry Store Operation

•State Supported •Low Tuition Rates COURSES OFf-ERED: •Journeymen Instructors Watch Repair, Jewelry Repair, •Non-Profit Institution Stone Setting, Gemology for •No Out-Of-State Tuition Charge the Jeweler. As Certificate Courses •Quarterly Enrollment Dates 607 S. HILL ST. - SUITE 820 •Financial Aid Available to Eligible Students Horology or Jewelery Technology LOS ANGELES, CALIF. 90014 •State and Federal Approved for Handicapped can lead to an Associate Degree from Paris (213) 626-1471 •Single or Married Student Housing Available Junior College and/or to a Bachelors •Courses Approved for Veteran's Training Degree at several participating Universities, Write for More Information PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE Division of Horology, Jewelry, Technology, and Gemology Paris, Texas 75460

30 Horological Times/April 1980 A

B

Figure 12 Figure13 into the body of the case down against that fits into a radial groove milled into the gasket. the body of the case midway between Figure 15, View A shows a three two of the lugs. This prevents the back piece water-resistant case. The gasket (a) from turning as the threaded ring is fits on a ledge in the body of the case. tightened against it. This is a very good c The back of the case (b) goes down design because the gasket cannot get dis­ against the gasket. Then the screw ring (c) placed during the tightening of the back screws into the body of the case and since the back is keyed to the body of the tightens down against the back of the case and cannot turn during the tighten­ case, causing the back to compress the ing operation. gasket against the ledge. Usually the case View B, Figure 15 shows a water­ back has a tab protruding from its edge resistan t case using an "O" ring gasket. Figure14 A B

c-

b

Figure 15

Win CITY SUPPL Ge1n City College Scrvinfi the indusrry since 1921 The School with Time For You LARGE STOCK OF OLD AMERICAN AND Choose courses in watch and/or clock repairing, engraving, jew­ DISCONTINUED SWISS PARTS elry-diamond setting or jewelry store management. Great Career Opportunities FULL LINE OF GENUINE MATERIALS Be A Professional Work An_}!where Craftsman LOWEST PRICES ON BATTERY CLOCK New classes begin every Monday throughout the year. Placement service for graduates. MOVEMENTS Write for Free Bulletin lWIN CITYWATCH SUPPLYCO. GEM CITY COLLEGE KANSAS CITY SCHOOL SCHOOL OF HOROU)(;) OF W,\TCHMAKJ:>iG -l.'128 .\1ain S1rn·1 5701West36th Street St. Louis Park, MN 55416 (.luint\, lllinoi., ti'.2301 K

April 1980/Horological Times 31 A B

Figure 16

This gasket is seated into a groove which being displaced or damaged when tight­ the edge of the case back to receive the allows the gasket to be about flush or ening the back. Some water-resistant gasket. The back snaps into the body of slightly below flush with the body of the cases have gaskets under the crystal as the case. The inside corner of the body case. When the back is screwed into the well as at the back of the case. These compresses the gasket tighter into its body of the case , a ledge on the back of gaskets should be replaced any time a groove causing a water-resistant seal to the case tightens against the "O" ring new crystal is fitted or if the gasket is be created. The gasket should fit close gasket providing the seal for the case. damaged. around the groove before the back is This style of case and gasket is very Figure 16 shows two of the most snapped on. A case press may also be efficient in making the case water-resis­ common styles of snap back water­ needed to press the back into the case tant. resistant cases. View A shows a case that body. Note: This gasket must be thick Any time a case back is threaded has an undercut back which holds the enough or a good seal will not be ob­ and turns directly against the gasket as it gasket. This back snaps down around an tained. It is also suggested that these is tightened, make sure the back is flat undercut groove on the body of the snap cases be tested without the gasket and smooth and a small amount of case. To close this case, usually a case to see if they have a good snap fit. silicon grease should be applied to the press is needed. View B, Figure 16 This concludes the series of articles gasket. This prevents the gasket from shows a case that has a groove cut around on watch cases and their accessories. 'liLIB

application for membership Enroll me immediately so that I can get all the generous benefits of A.W.I. membership. Here is my $30.00 for annual dues. AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS Name (please pront l ------INSTITUTE Address City ------State ------Zip Code ------3700 Harrison Avenue Please check: Watchmaker D Watchmaker-Jeweler 0 Clockmaker 0

Other______~ Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Retail Jeweler 0 Student 0 If you are a member of a guild or association or school. please indicate: Name of Organization or school ______

If you are certified. Indicate: Type of Certificate------Number ------

32 Horological Times/April 1980 Deluxe Polisher and Dust Collector

SPECIAL HOOD DESIGN . Promotes maximum possible air movement and suc­ tion so dust, lint, and polishing powders are removed from air, protecting operator's throat and lungs.

EASY ACCESS FILTER DOOR . Makes removing and replacing fiberglass filter more convenient.

SHIELDED LIGHTS. Details of work are sharp, clear. not lost in annoying shadows.

BIG INTAKE HOLES. Directly behind arbor shaft so even the longest ring buff may be used .

/ ONE-SWITCH CONVE­ NIENCE. Controls motor, lights, blowers.

POWERFUL ENOUGH ... VERSATILE ENOUGH ... DURABLE ENOUGH For the Busy Professional Craftsman/Jeweler Cleaner air_ .. better recovery of SPECIFY PRO·CRAFT FOR precious metals ... they are more DOUBLE AXIAL FIBERGLASS FIL­ ITS ALL-AROUND VALUE FAN BLOWERS. TER . Positioned important than ever for today's For increased ahead of fan MODEL 760A-Dust Collector Only. shop. The smart thing to do now ShippingWt.491bs. __ . _.. _.$192.00 is to look into all the deluxe PRO­ MODEL 765-With '/3 hp, 3450 rpm CRAFT polisher/dust collector motor, '/,'' double-end shaft, 2 taper spindles, 5" shaft height. 115v AC. has to offer. It was designed for Shipping Wt. 66 lbs ... __ .. _. $257.50 the widely varied needs of light MODEL 770-With '/, hp, 3450 rpm jewelry manufacturing firms and motor, 5fa" double-end shaft, 2 taper repair shops. It has the powerful spindles, 41/,'' shaft height. 115v AC. Shipping Wt. 68 lbs ... _.. __ . $269.95 suction needed to keep your shop dust-free ___ protecting an See your jewelers' supply house tor information on the complete PRO­ operator's throat and lungs while \ CRAFT line, or write us for bulletin reducing expensive waste of MOTOR PAN . 50-160. 32"x8"x9". precious metals. Another big I plus forth is deluxe unit is its con­ CABINET. 16 ga. sheet metal. 32"x!O"x24". /t:J,·Z1JCRAFf!/ Mounted on rubber feet to prevent slipping. venient and simple operation. P.O. BOX 243H CARLSTADT, N .J. 07072

April 1980/Horological Times 33 A Key Ingredient: ENTHUSIASM!

By Fred S. Burckhardt

J\ccording to the dictionary, ENTHUSIASM is intense, r-\lively interest; ardor; zeal; or the devotion to or fondness for a subject or cause. This is one trait that every watchmaker should have. It is the most important characteristic one can possess; it shows you like your work, enjoy your work, and will try to do the best work you can. Have you ever noticed how disappointing it is to walk into a store and have a person serve you that has no enthusiasm for their job? They act like they couldn't care less whether or not your problem is resolved. This action doesn't leave you particularly thrilled with the service you received. Remember this the next time you wait on a customer. When you sell a repair job, keep in mind that the customer is swapping his hard-earned dollars for your service. The impression you make on him will help him to decide if it will be worth it or not. Act indifferently and it will leave him with a negative impression. Take an interest in his prob­ lem and explain how you can solve the problem for him and you'll have yourself a good customer. If you just say, "It needs a cleaning and a couple parts and it will cost x amount of dollars," the customer may not be too overwhelmed with your explanation or your charge. Some customers still think when you say "clean" it means you just dunk it in some solution and squirt some oil on it and that's that. By briefly

"The knowledge of your craft and the confidence you instill in your customers will decide whether you are considered a true professional."

by FRED S. BURCKHARDT

34 Horological Times/April 1980 explaining to customers the work and time involved, you will help to convince them that it will be worth swapping their EXTRA money. Do it with some enthusiasm and interest. Let the customer know you will take good care of their timepiece and, regardless of what you charge, GNE THEM THEIR SPECIAL MONEY'S WORTH! WAL THAM STEM/SLEEVE A good example of enthusiastic selling is probably COMBINATION what you do when trying not to sell a repair. This may sound farfetched, but think for a minute about the last time a 3 dozen assorted Genuine Waltham stems customer brought in a re;tl dog that you didn't want to work and sleeves in a wide range of sizes. A super on. Remember how you tried to talk the customer out of assortment and special priced. Regular having it repaired? How you explained the amount of work price on a stem/sleeve combination is and the time involved and how expensive it would be? Then $2.65. But you can get 36 for only $7.95. to top it off, you set an extra high price knowing for sure 029014 ...... $7.95 asst. that it would make them back off. So what happened? You convinced the customer to have the work done and they agreed to your price. All the time you were trying your best to talk them out of it, but instead you did just the oppo­ site. Why? Because whether you realized it or not, you were doing just what you're supposed to do in selling a repair job! We all like to be considered professional, yet we GENUINE WAL THAM are not willing to take the time or put forth the effort neces­ PENDANT STEMS sary to achieve this status. What have you done during this 6 dozen bulk packaged Genuine Waltham past year to increase your knowledge and skill? Would you pendant set stems. Assorted small to large. go to a doctor who hasn't kept up with the changes in medicine A great assortment at a super low price. or would you have a CPA who doesn't keep up with the new 029015 ...... $5.95 asst . tax laws? Ridiculous-right? Yet we expect customers to bring tis their business without any reservations whatever. I know one watchmaker who won't change a battery in the "new­ POCKET WATCH SLEEVES fangled" watches. Hard to believe isn't it? Yet he says he The most popular sizes are available again. makes a good living without fooling with them, and he's been 1111 SLEEVE around too long to start. Maybe so. But if you plan on being The most popular of all sizes. around for awhile you had better keep up with the changes. Fits most 12 size and 16 size chrome cases plus many Some customers get desperate trying to find someone to styles in yellow. repair their timepiece. Price becomes no object if they can 1111...... $2.50 each find the service they need. This is where you can outshine the competition-if you have the knowledge and skill to do so. 1071 SLEEVE Perfect for the 16S Railroad The knowledge of your craft and the confidence you cases. Almost as popular as instill in your customers will decide whether you are con­ 1111. sidered a true professional. This is where the money is, as­ 1071...... $2.50 each suming, of course, you are interested in being paid for your 1083 SLEEVE services. Personally, I don't care about the money part of it. A general purpose sleeve for I'm just interested in making friends! 12S Case (and some 16S). The following are some recommendations: 1083 ...... $2.50 each

I. Never use the word "cleaning" with a customer. Try 1091 SLEEVE For 12S and 16S cases n.. "overhaul" or "servicing," with a brief explanation as to requiring a longer sleeve. A

April 1980/Horological Times 35 Savings from $MARSH ALL-~WARTCHILD

Ma rshall -Swartchild explores and travels the world over seeking the best values for you. The FROM THE DESK OF many bargains we offer were located in the U.S.A., Switzerland, Japan, China, England, EDWARD ENDMAN Germany, and France. We succeed in keeping prices low and within reason by trying harder!

BENCH ES- CHAIRS­ SA VE $120 SAVE $32 PRECISION Model MS-200 EACH Walnut Finish WORK Over-all height: Model MSA· CENTERS 39" . Over-all 110. Avoid w idth: 39". strain and stress Over-al I depth : -use the Perfect for Jeweler, 19-3/4 " POSTURE/ Watchmaker, electronic Height to COMFORT worker, industrial worker, working sur­ BENCH hobbyist, photographer, face: 38-1/4" CHAIR engraver, dentist, labora­ Working su r­ Enjoy full­ tory, instrumentation, face: 19-1 /4" size, fully­ micro-precision, air· x 38". Trim cushioned craft worker . . . Re­ 3 /4 ". Leg seat ... adjust­ designed to better suit room 32". able he ight, 17 to 20" .. . spring-action your working needs ... Minimum padded back rest ... complete 360° swivel Retains the sturdy, ass em bl y re­ ... removabl e rest arms .. . smooth-rolling high qualitY construction quired. Prices ball-bearing casters. Regularly $79.50 each required in al I work and specifications subject to change. Reg­ . .. NOW $47.50 EACH- 2 for ONLY centers. ularl y $360. Now $240, f .o .b. Ch icago . $70.50 ... prices f .o.b. Chicago.STOCK ORDER NOW FOR JULY 1980 DELIVERY ON HAND-DELIVERY NOW. 0 Send __ MS-200 BENCHES 0 Ship_MSA-110 BENCH CHAIRS

MARSHALL-SWARTCHILD LOOK WHAT WE'VE GOT! LOW, LOW PRICES! SALE ON POCKET CASES CATALOG NEW FOR 1980 -ALL NEW, HARD TO GET-LIMITED QUANTITIES O Hca1 FF2124 RGP Screw Butler, 19L •• . . D Hca23 16L Key RGP Snap Butler ... • . 8.65 25.50 D Hca24 Gruen 385 G F Snap Butler . • • 20.00 D Hca2 Elg 657 RGP Screw Butler, 18L. 25.50 D Hca25 17LChrome Eta953Bui17AH 17AE . O Hca3 FMF 60 Chrome Screw Lock, 19L . • . 7.50 10.75 0 Hca26 18Y,L Gruen 395 Chrome Screw . 8.75 D Hca4 UT431 Swiss Snap Chrome, 19L , 7.35 0 Hca27 18L Chrome Hinged Back • . •• . 8.75 D Hca5 12s Key G F Snap Engraved ... 15.50 D Hca6 12s Star GF Snap Butler ... • . 15.00 COLLECTOR POCKET WATCHES­ Hca7 Colonial Walt G F Snap .... •• 20.00 D BARGAINS-ELGIN POCKET WATCHES D Hca8 1 2s Key G F Snap . . • .... •• 15.00 D Hca9 12s 111 G F Snap Butler ••••• 15.00 O 8X.J7 Elg 16s 17J glass back chrome , . • 45,00/ D Hca10 12s 111 G F Snap Engraved . • . • 15.00 40.00 D Hca11 12s Elg Streamline Steel . , •• . 12.50 D 8X-38 Elg 16s 7J OF wh base metal, nickel case D Hca12 17L Omega GF . . .. •• . • . • 15.00 45.50/42.50 LJ Hca1 3 12s Key Chrome Screw Butler. • . 8.75 0 8X-39 Elg 16s 7J 3 o'clock wind, yel Keystone D Hca14 Sangamo Steel Snap Butler ••• 12.50 case . • • • • • . . • • . • • . • • • • 50.00/45.00 D Hca15 12x6 Star Chrome Screw Eng ... 6.50 D SX-56 Elg 12s 16J wh nickel round engraved D Hca16 Key 111 Marc Auto RGP Snap • 12.50 case .. •• . • , • • • , • , • , • 40.00/36.00 D Hca17 17L Key GF Snap Butler.. • •• 15.00 D 8X-63 Elg 12s 7J OF 20 yr YGF case; needs D Hca18 17L Thick GF Key Snap .... • 15.00 staff . • . •• . . . ••.• . ••••• 27.50/22.50 D Hca19 17L Thin RGP Star Snap • . •.. . 8.65 0 8X-64 Elg 12s 7J Silverode case . • 35.00/32.00 D Hca20 17L Key RGP Snap Butler .••• . 8.65 D 1-621 Elg 18s 7J OF in heavy Silverode case D Hca21 17L Swiss Chrome Snap Butler • . 5.60 55.00 D Hca22 16L Key GF Snap Butler. • . • . 15.00 D 8-114 18s Wa lt 7J OF nickel silver case • 55.00

Name-brand wrist watches, ladies', men's, com­ plete w /original bands-can't tell from new. Order on memo-no gamble to you. Hundreds JtilARSH ALL-~WARTCHILD of bargains in SO-page book listing tools, clock supplies, findings, etc. Must see-please do! SEND MAIL TO P.O. BOX 726, CHICAGO, IL 60690 2040 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago IL 60647 0 SEND CATALOG 180-0NLY $1.00 312/278-2300

TOLL-FRE E PHO N E ORDERS (except-sorry ) A laska and Haw aii-9-4C. T . WEEKDAYS : I LL- DALLAS, TX HOUSTON, T X SAN FRANCISCO, CA SEATTLE, WA 1NOIS 800-972-3776, OTHER STATES 800- 621-4767 1512 Commerce St. P.O. Bo x 759 657 Mission St. 1425 Fourth Ave. Zip 75201 Zip 77001 Zip 94105 Zip 98101 MONEY 8ACK OR FULL CREDIT 214/741-1454 71317 59-9009 415/421-2153 206/682-6158 IF YOU'RE NOT SATISFIED DIGITALS e DIGITALS e DIGITALS LIMITED TIME OFFER L.E.D. WATCHES

* PULSAR-LADIES' RUNNING * CASIO-RUNNERS & STOPPERS * NAME BRANDS-BULOVA, ELGIN, SEIKO & OTHERS SELLING NEW FOR $100-$350 EACH, ALL REPOSSESSED. L.E.D. WATCHES Push-button ruby-red screen time/date display . Running, but need minor repairs. Runners, for parts and practice work. All complete YOUR COST ONLY $34.50 EACH- with case, band, buttons, module. Opportunity YOU MAY ORDER ON APPROVAL. to obtain d igital parts at a fraction of regular cost. Priced to clear-any quantity- Name your brand and your second choice. Lots of 1-4, $6 each. 5-9, $5 each, 10-99, $4 each Order NO. NBD1-NAME-BRAND DIGITALS D EX77R__ L.E.D. runners at $ __ each o Send at $34.50 each 0 EX77 1 RUNNING L.E.D. + 12 STOPPERS 1st choice all 13 for only $19.95 2nd choice ______STOPPERS IN ABOVE BRANDS, to be used for practice and for parts. SPECIAL OFFER Complete watches-all at one low 3 FULL POUNDS OF ASSORTED PARTS price: $18.50each FOR DIGITAL WATCHES-GUARANTEED Order NO. NBDS-DIGITAL STOPPERS TO INCLUDE ONE COMPLETE, RUNNING D Send ___ _ _ at $18.50 each L.E.D. WATCH-ALL 3 LBS. FOR ONLY $9.95 D Send 3 Ibs. assorted digital parts, including complete L.E.D. watch at $9.95 Lower prices for larger quantities: D Send 10 lbs. asstd. digital parts, including 3 complete watches at $29.95 D Send 50 lbs. asstd. digital parts, including 12 complete watches at $145.00 EBAUCHES SA LATEST CATALOG-identifies range of Ebauches movements, each shown actual size. Assures accuracy in ordering replacement parts. Indispensable tool, printed in English, French, and German. NOW-BOTH VOLUMES OF "REPAIRING QUARTZ O Send NO. BSW-1 at $15.00 each LED-LCD AND ANALOG WATCHES"-$60.00. WATCHMAKERS' DICTIONARY-Ove1 2,500 watch­ INDIVIDUAL VOLUMES-$31 .50. makers' terms. Illustrated. Printed in English, French, D Send ___ sets, Volumes 1 & 2 at $60.00 German, Italian, Japanese, Portuguese , Russian , and D Send copies Volume 1 at $31.50 Spanish . D Send copies Volume 2 at $31.50 D Send NO. BSW-2 at $24.00 each

Quick credit to accounts well-rated by Dun & Bradstreet or Jewelers Board of Trade f!lARSHALL-~WARTCHILD TOL~FREE PHONE ORDERS (except -sorry'-Alaska and 2040 Milwaukee Ave .. Chicago. IL 60647 - 312/278-2300 Hawa111-9-4 CDT WEEKDAYS Firm ______ILLINOIS --8001972-3776 1512 Commerce St.. Dallas. TX 75201 - 214/7 41 -1454 OTH EA STATES 8001621-4767 P.O. Box 759. Houston. TX 77001 - 713/759-9009 OR MAIL ORDER TO P 0 BOX 726 CHICAGO IL 60690 Address 657 Mission St .. San Francisco . CA 94105 - 415/421-2153 City/ State/Zip------1425 Fourth Ave .. Seattle. WA 98101 - 206/682-6158 Affiliate Chapter Column/ Robert F. Bishop

Profile: The Horological Society of Ne"W" York

its own members, and industry. The execu­ As described in my January article, 1-\ 1973 was an important year for tive committee consists of the officers and the Arizona Horological Guild. One seven executive committeemen. They hundred and seven years earlier, 1866, meet after each regular meeting. The was an important year for watchmakers constitution and bylaws are constantly in the New York City area. In that year reviewed and changed whenever necessary. the Horological Society of New York HSNY has always had a policy was born. I think that it is important of working with other organizations. Its to learn how the oldest watchmakers members were instrumental in founding organization in this country has managed both HIA and AWI. HSNY considers to survive, grow, and serve its members itself an active part of AWi, not just a continuously for one hundred and member. In 1963, it became the first fourteen years. outside watch organization to affiliate The Horological Society of New with AWi. York (HSNY) began life in March of HSNY has a fine record in edu­ 1866 as the Deutscher Urmacher Verein. cation. It helped found the first free watch­ Its first members were newly immigrated making course in the public school system. / It has members on the faculty of the German watchmakers who left their Robert Bishop homeland because of oppressive condi­ George Washington Vocational School tions. They arrived with little more than their talent and and the Bulova School of Watchmaking. Awards consisting of experience. Guilds and associations had been an important free one-year memberships are given to honor students of part of their lives in Germany and there were none in their both schools. Association leaders have taught watchmaking new homeland. They realized that they had to band together to hobbyists at the Adult Center of Sheepshead High School. to better themselves. 1l1eir first constitution provided the Leading members of industry have been active in foundations for continuing education through seminars and the organization, and HSNY has been instrumental in bridging technical data, obtaining necessary tools and equipment, and the gap between the watchmaker and industry. H~NY provides securing jobs for the unemployed members. Financial help an employment service to both the watchmaker and the was also provided for members in cases of illness or death. employer, and is second only to AWI in the size of its technical Each member was not only expected, but required to work to­ library. A "Technical Corner" is held prior to each meeting, ward the betterment of his fellow members and his craft, and to which members are invited to bring problem watches for considered it a duty to attend all association social functions. analysis. It would be futile to attempt to mention all those Many of the foremost Swiss, English, French, and who have given their time and talent to HSNY over the years. American horologists were attracted to the Verein, and the Its leaders are skilled and dedicated people who realize the ethnic character of the association gradually changed. By value of sharing their talent with the members. The names the turn of the century, the meetings were conducted in of Henry Fried, Al Rudnick, Arthur Rawlings, B. Mellenhoff, English and the name was changed to the Watchmakers Society J. I. Roehrich, Andrew Park, James O'Shaughnessy, Morris of New York. Klein, Jean Pierre Savary, Ralph Kalichman, Jack Klass, The Society continued in this form until 1931 Henry Loeser, Irving Albert, Julius Grenetz, Jack Schecter, when it was reorganized as the Horological Society of New and Ben Matz are but a few of those who have contributed York with a new constitution and affiliation with HIA. For much to the rich history of HSNY. Howard Levy is the cur­ the celebration of its lOOth anniversary, Mayor John Lindsay rent president. proclaimed February 26, 1966 to be Horological Society of The accomplishments of HS fY can provjde a goal New York Day. for many watchmakers associations. ln time your association From these beginnings, the HSNY has continued can have this rich history. All it requires is the sense of pur­ to grow. It presently has 225 members. It meets monthly, pose and dedication shown by the Horological Society of September through June, at the Sheraton Hotel in Manhattan. New York. The programs are planned by the executive committee at A special thanks is due Ben Matz who provided much the beginning of the year, using the talents and services of AWI, of the background for this report. 'Ul::::I:B

38 Horological Times/April 1980 .. .from all around the ASSOCIATION ...

PENNSYLVANIA The members of the board of directors from the Pittsburgh and Philadelphia areas met on February 3, 1980 and agreed on plans and committees for the State Convention. In his address to the members of the state organization, Past President Robert Taylor for treasurer. All nominees Bob Bishop wrote, " .. . you will have were elected unanimously to their re­ a new President after this convention. spective positions. They are Thomas Give him your support and your help, Murray, President; J. Louis Dich ter, Victor Griffen of T.J. Supply showed and your association and you cannot Vice President; Al Peters, Secretary; and demonstrated the newest testing help but grow." he also said, " ... you and Robert Taylor, Treasurer. and cleaning equipment now available must become involved with your as­ There was a bench course from Portescap. sociation. We in Pennsylvania have conducted on March 9, 1980, by WOSIC Mr. Degan demonstrated the new far to go compared with other state on a combination quartz analog and timing machine, the B200A Vibrograf, watchmakers associations. Their conven­ LED movement. There were two sessions; the Portescap ATB-FK 1 Electronic tions draw hundreds of watchmakers. one in the morning and one in the after­ water-resistance tester for watches for So can we-with your support." noon. These sessions were restricted to general use, and several other pieces of Volunteers from the ranks will a small number for each session. At­ equipment. be needed to serve on the committees tendance was on a first come, first The first meeting of the 1980 and help bring plans to fruition. serve basis. Provincial Advisory Committee to the The January meeting of the trade of watch repairer was held on Delaware Valley Watchmakers Guild ONTARIO Thursday, January 17, 1980. This was a was well attended with 35 members The last meeting of The Ontario Watch­ well attended meeting. The discussion present. Nominations were held and makers Association was held on Wednes­ covered training, testing, and the study one name was nominated for each po­ day, February 27, 1980. of apprenticeships acceptance into the sition, one of which was Jack Glussman Mr. Remy Degan of Portescap, trade. The possibility of financial support for treasurer, who declined and nominated Switzerland and New York, and Mr. from the Federal Government and the

Disc Removal Tool

cac~ail DISC REMOVAL TOOL

Borel has available a set of tools for easy removal and adjustment of the discs on Cocktail Watches, com­ plete with instructions.

Replacement discs are available for ladies' and men's Cocktails.

Cocktail Disc Tool - Set $6.75

U.S. DISTRIBUTION CENTER

1008 Walnut Kansas City, Missouri 64106 816 I 421-2562

April 1980/Horological Times 39 study of the trade now and five years scrupulous bandit." Members viewed taking temperature into consideration. down the road were also discussed. slides and listened to well qualified He also introduced a new line of timing The next bench session will speakers on the pros and cons of safety, machines. be conducted by Mr. Bill Biederman, who held everyone's attention. staff instructor of AWI. This will be a four-hour course on the new Swiss VIRGINIA ESA Digital/Analog. The tentative date IOWA The January, 1980 meeting of the Tri­ for this course is Sunday, June 1st, It was suggested at a recent Board meeting City Watchmaker & Jewelers Guild was 1980 at George Brown College. that a "Film Library" could be another held on January 15, 1980. benefit the Association could offer all Bob Draucker presented a pro­ Iowa Jewelers and Watchmakers As­ gram on "English Fusee Driven Clocks." MASSACHUSETTS sociation members, on a loan basis, This was a most interesting program. The last regular meeting of the Massa­ with postage being the only cost. Jewelers chusetts Watchmakers Association o­ are being called upon to give programs pened at 8:20 P.M. with 43 members to Service Clubs, Ladies' Groups, and present. Secretary's and Treasurer's re­ schools. This would prove advantageous ILLINOIS The first 1980 meeting of the Central ports were read and accepted. and less costly for the Jeweler if the Illinois Watchmakers Association was Accepted as new members were organization had a library. the following persons: Helen Hudson Plans are under way for the held on January 1 7, 1980. of Dracut, Arthur Moorisal of Roslindale, Fall Convention and Trade Show which The program, said President Don Bilyeu· was "an open discussion and Linda Morin of Northampton, will be held September 6 and 7, 1980 li recent graduate from the Joseph Bulova at the Airport Inn in Des Moines, Iowa. of anything and everything; Zantech, School of Watchmaking. industrial opportunities for the watch­ The meeting was then turned maker, fix the clock or junk it, tools, over to Detectives Edward Loder and NEW JERSEY prices, new products, and more." Rudy Carbone, two experienced persons Last month, Ed Pedzy from Zenith The annual CIW A watch and from the Cambridge Police Department. Chemical Company demonstrated new clock repair survey has been prepared. Detective Loder took the audience cleaning equipment and a new timing Members have been asked to fill out into the realm of security, emphasizing machine. It was a very enjoyable evening questionnaires. Results will be announced many important tidbits such as the to start off the ne~ year. later. danger of wearing a side arm in a busy On February 12, 1980, the The officers of CIWA for 1980 jewelry store. He said that it can easily guest speaker was Mr. Tom Lange of the are President Don Bilyeu of Monticello, lead to the loss of your business and L&R Manufacturing Company. Mr. Lange Vice President Gary Sockel of Decatur, even death. Detective Loder also added, discussed in detail the correct method of Treasurer Earl Lipp of Normal, Secre­ "You will be the first target of an un- calibrating "quartz crystal watches," tary Bill Eaton of Normal. Board Members

Whoosh! In only seconds, Steamaster has all your jewelry trays sparkling clean for greater sales appeal. Introducing the most Whoosh! With easy Steamaster cleaning there's no drying, no wiping, no lint residue. Whoosh! Steamaster high pressure steam will advanced Steam Cleaner remove all .deeply embedded dirt, grime, and grease. for the modern jeweler. For Retail Jewelers and Smaller Repair Shops-Model HPJ-2S. Complete with electric foot actuated control switch, automatic steam release valve and "Manual f:ta - Reset" l_ow water cut-off control, 2 gallon water capacity (approximate). Steam pressure 60/70 lbs. No installation lf..._ ~. · .. required. Plug into any 110 or 220 volt outlet. A space saver-cabinet measures only 65/e" wide x 163/4" ~- - _."2 long x 17" high. Model HPJ-2. Similar to above except equipped with mechanical chain activated steam release valve, foot pedal control, and low water cut-off.

HPJ-2 915 Olive St.. St. Louis, Mo. 63101 $575 Mo. Watts Line: 800-392-7741 All Others: 800-325-7090-91

40 Horological Times/April 1980 are Ben Smith of Decatur, Gerald Hough loupe, bench lamp, indirect sweep wheel The Cape Fear Guild set July 20, of Champaign, Gordon Robinson of remover, hand remover, two sewing 1980 as the date for their annual auction Springfield, Delmar Hancock of Dwight, machine needles, Accutron Test Set, and pig-picking. A report of the Board Fred Schroeder of Morton. or Volt-Ohm meter, and a six foot of Directors business meeting was given Gold is very much in the news extension cord. The course was presented and a discussion followed. these days, and gold was the subject of by AWL The Land of the Sky Guild part of the Central Illinois Watchmakers There was also a question and elected officers and had a slide program Association meeting February 21 , 1980. answer session on reading meters, testing from AWI on "Rust Removal." Along with the seminar on gold, the and understanding watch components with The Triangle Guild held a discussion on the report of the Board of meeting featured a new 20-minute the meters, and making tools for testing. Directors business meeting, and members film from A WI. The next course in scheduled In the seminar on gold testing, for June 26, 1980. took up a collection to help send the three experts demonstrated how to state Technical Director to the A WI Convention. The meeting ended with determine whether material is base metal, NORTH CAROLINA a general discussion on watch repair. silver, platinum, or gold, and how to At the quarterly NCWA board meeting, determine the karat of gold content. The Piedmont-Crescent Guild one of the topics discussed was the fact elected officers and appointed Joe They also had some tips on quicker that the amount in the budget to send Crooks as Technical Chairman. Joe methods. Members brought items they the two delegates and the Technical presented a schedule of eleven techni­ wanted to have tested. Director to the AWI Convention would cal programs for the coming year. Mem­ The next Illinois Watchmakers only cover the cost of one delegate this bers voted to increase guild dues from Convention will be October 18 and 19, year. It was decided to ask the guilds to $10.00 to $15.00, and to send their 1980, at the Regency Hotel in Peoria, send their old batteries to NCW A this Illinois. President Don Bilyeu and the old batteries to NCWA this year to raise year to meet the expenses of the other money to send delegates to the A WI convention committee are planning excit­ delegate. ing things. Convention. A committee was appoint"ed The Golden Triad Guild elected to nominate the recipient of the C.E. officers and had a "doubleheader" Kneeburg award this year. IDAHO program. Ben Webster gave a report on The Coastal Plain Guild elected Gem State Watchmakers Guild had a batteries, their prices, and why, as well as officers and the watchmaker of the year. seminar on the ESA LCD Chronograph the new lithium battery that Eveready The program was a comparison of watch and Bulova's SMQ on February 17 in is working on. Charles Weavil reported repair and gold work prices in the area. Boise. that Bell Laboratories had applied for a The guild voted to take some money It was recommended that mem­ patent on a liquid crystal display they from the treasury to help send the bers bring the following: several screw­ have been working on that will run state Technical Director to the A WI drivers, pegwood, tweezers(Nonmagnetic), longer because of a lower power drain. Convention. IB:ID

Now a complete CZ Cartier Style Assortment USE PRECISION MADE CRYSTALS TO FIT is MOST BEZELS FOR TODA Y'S MOST the POPULAR FASHION WATCH. •"CARTIER STYLE"• "TANK" Hottest • "ERMEX •"GENEVA"• BLUE SAPPHIRE CROWNED WATCHES, ETC. mover 8 POPULAR SIZES AVAILABLE-REFILLS, in ONLY$J.20 the PER DOZEN industry Order This Set sue FANCY CYLINDER ASSORTMENT CAS-KER has 2mm-1 Omm NO. TC-24 2 DOZEN ASSORTED SIZES IN A CONTAINER WITH INDEX CARDS $ ,7S round brilliant cuts in stock 14 PER SET Immediate delivery The BEST a-ROUND THE sue ROCKET INSERTER & REMOVER TOOL NO. 1395 0 Removes and inserts Round Crys­ tals from 12.0m/ m to size 53~- ""' (46.3m/m) Only $,21 ~5 Cas-~&rr Co. - ~~..-~ ...... -\ P.O. BOX 2347 Drawer A ORDER FROM YOUR SUPPLY HOUSE- - ~ Cincinnati, Ohio 45201 • Phone: (513) 241-7075 Mfg. Standard Unbreakable Watch Crystal Co. 123 East 144th St., Bronx, N.Y. 10451

April 1980/Horological Times 41 TWO SILENT VERGES STOP THAT VERGE If you have ever tried to sleep in a room next to a clock with a verge escapement, AND A MARRIAGE you know what noisy is. People say that the drapes on old poster beds were to keep the cold drafts out in the days NOT MADE IN HEAVEN before central heating, but I sometimes wonder if they were not also to deaden the noise of clicking verges. It was not long before our ingenious clockmakers of old turned their attention to this problem and came By up with several solutions. We will take Otto a look at two of them. While various ways of deadening the noise of the verge Benesh were devised, for some unknown reason the schemes never became very popular and they are not found in great numbers. The anchor escapement came along shortly and that was the end of the verge escapement. It was obvious that one possible solution to the problem of verge noise was to find a way to eliminate or minimize the impact of the verge pallet on the crown wheel tooth. One way in which this was accomplished in many clocks was to make deep pallets and string a piece of gut across the opening as shown in Figure 1. The escape wheel teeth strike the gut and much of the clatter is eliminated. This arrangement has a couple of disadvantages in that the gut is subject to wear and must be replaced at frequent intervals. Also, there is much more recoil of the escape wheel as the resiliency of the gut is added to the normal recoil of the verge and may cause butting of the other pallet unless the adjustment is nicely done. It may be added that tying the knot in gut lines in order to provide the proper tension and avoid later slippage and the resulting slackness of line is also a problem. Present day gut is not of the quality that was produced in bygone times, but luckily, monofilament nylon is an excellent substitute and is available in many diameters. The only difficulty is again in tying knots. Be careful, as nylon has a nasty habit of coming undone. It is also good practice to seal the end of the line by melting with heat; a match or lighter will do the job. This should be done with both gut and nylon. Another method used to silence the verge involved the use of springs as shown in Figure 2. In this case, the crown wheel teeth strike the steel springs and the resiliency of the springs provides the sound-deadening effect desired. Figures 3 and 4 show the pallets in greater detail. The first thing one notices is the long extensions to the pallet faces. They are needed to provide enough length for the spring so that it will be sufficiently flexible to slow down

42 Horological Times/April 1980 the crown wheel tooth as it approaches the solid part of the pallet face. Upon contact, this provides the impulse for the pendulum to move and allow the next tooth to drop on the opposite pallet face. Too short an extension will require a stronger spring, and as a result, the dampening action is often reduced; the spring acts as a pallet face and may be the cause of the clock running erratically. Constant running over a period of many years often causes metal fatigue and the result is a spring that has either lost its temper or is broken at the screw end. However, replacement is relatively easy as new pieces may be made from watch mainsprings or spring stock. I only caution you to make sure that a blue temper is maintained and that the spring is bent at the screw end to receive the wheel tooth. Then ease it back to Figure 3 the pallet face while absorbing a minimum of power from the time train. Should you be required to make the entire set of pallets, it is not necessary to cut the extensions and the arbor from a single piece of metal; they may be made separately and soldered or welded to the basic pallets.

THE MARRIAGE

They say that marriages are made in heaven, but here is one that was made in some unscrupulous shop and un­ doubtedly the sole motive was greed. Clients of mine had purchased a long case clock and asked if I would set it up and check it out. When I arrived Figure 4 at their residence, they told me that the \ :__ ._..; clock had been represented as being in Figure 5 excellent order and all original. The case was a rather nicely proportioned mahagony long case with dial, and one was found that had a for three posts and the replacement dial a round dial openi.ng. It was typical of chapter ring approximately the same had four. Therefore, the upper two were many produced in England and Scotland diameter as the opening on the hood of removed and the bottom ones cut shorter. in the early l 800's and was in good the case. It did present some problems. There is another set of holes, and I suspect condition. however, and the solutions are shown in this is not the first time the dial had been The problems started with the Figure 6. First, the spandrels were re· married. Note that the two lower brackets fact that the movement and dial were moved (if they were on the dial) to allow were not bolted on- merely placed over missing or in such shape that they could a closer fit of the dial and case. The next the old cut-off posts and fixed with wire not be repaired. Another movement problem presented was that the dial posts circles. had to be supplied, but rather than did not fit the corresponding holes in the Another problem was that the locating a contemporary one with a dial front plate. What to do? Simple; make calendar month wheel and its stud were designed to fit the dial opening, the non-clocklike brackets that could be missing; Figure 7 shows the replacement movement shown in Figure 5 was used. turned around to fit the holes in the which is quite unbelievable! A wheel The next item required was a plate. Notice that the movement provided (Continued on page 67)

''111\l~Cti ~tif1TTE~ ',©,980

hi· Otto Benesh, CMC · (All rights reserved by the author)

April 1980/Horological Times 43 Chime and Strike Work:

n this segment of the series, I will cover the operation and adjustment The I of the Seth Thomas Sonora Chime. Most collectors and repairers know of this• Seth curious dual movement design. Each clock has two movements in the case, one for the time and hour strike and the Thomas other for the quarter hour chimes.

Son.ora Various models were made dur­ ing the second decade of this century, all Chime* with the same basic movements. There were many different cases offered, in­ cluding round top, Gothic, tambour, and the black mantel type. Figure 1 shows three of the clocks from the 191 7 Cat­ By alog. By 1924, Seth Thomas dropped the Sonora line and introduced the more Chime Clock No. 64. Mahogany, Shaded Marqueterie. 6-inch Convex Silvered Steven G. compact No. 124 Chime Movement in Dial. Height, 14 inches. Conover different cases. Seth Thomas used the No. 89 Movement for the Sonora time and strike. The No. 89 is a common count wheel style clock movement found in many other Seth Thomas clocks of the period. The factory modified it for the Sonora application. Every quarter hour, the No. 89 releases the separate chime movement to run. As the hour chimes finish play­ ing, the chime movement then "returns the favor" by unlocking the No. 89 to strike the hour. Chime Clock No. 57. Magogany Fine­ Figured Pattern. 6-inch Convex Silvered Dial. Brass Sash with Convex Beveled This article is mostly devoted to the Glass. Height, 11 inches. Base, 17Y, chime movement, not to the No. 89 Time inches. and Strike. After all, it is the separate chime mechanism that is the unique part of the Seth Thomas Sonora Chime. I'll cover assembly and adjustment proce­ dures, including the relationship between the chime movement and the No. 89.

Within the clock case, the chime movement is located behind and toward the time side of the No. 89. It is powered by a heavy mainspring in a barrel. Chime winding is at the dial near the 3 o'clock position. Most models have a silencer lever at the side of the case. Counting of Figure 1 the chime notes is controlled by a count

Chime Clock No. 7. Mahogany Ada­ mantine Finish. 5-inch Silvered Dial. Brass Sash, Mat and Feet; Convex Glass. Height, 13 inches. Chime andl Strike by STEVEN G. CONOVER

Photographs provided by Seth Thomas.

44 Horological Times/April 1980 * © Stephen G. Conover 1980 ®

©· --~~-12'. ©· -® 0 0~ CD~,_ 1 STRIKE LIFT PIN 2 COUNT WHEEL 3 CAM 4 COUNT LEVER 5 LOCKING LEVER 6 WARNING PIN 7 FLY 8 CHIME WARNING LEVER 9 STRIKE LIFT LEVER 10 WINDING ARBOR J'TE/IEN G. CONOVE,R 1.380 11 CLICKWHEEL 12 CHIME DRUM 13 COUNT WHEEL DRIVE GEAR

Figure 2 wheel (or locking plate). We'll call it a the chime warning lever (8), and lifts it. from happening. The count lever rides count wheel in this movement. There is In turn, the warning lever raises the lock­ along on the rim of the rotating count no automatic chime correction feature, ing lever (5) out of the slot in the cam (3) wheel, and is held high enough so the so if the chime sequence is upset for any releasing the gear train. locking lever is kept out of the slot in the reason it will not correct itself. Warning is achieved as the warning cam. pin (6), mounted on the same arbor with At the end of the chime sequence, Figure 2 is a front view of the basic the fly (7), hits the warning lever and one of the four slots in the count wheel chime movement, without the hammer stops the train. The fly has turned only comes into position under the count assembly. Several versions of the move­ about Y2 to 34 revolution. The count lever lever. Rotating in synchronization, the ment were made for rod and bell chimes, (4) has come up out of the slot in the cam appears with its slot under the lock­ with different hammer configurations. In count wheel (2). In addition, the cam has ing lever, at the same instant. Both levers making the drawing, I worked from a No. turned counterclockwise a few degrees fall into their respective slots, and locking 119 Chime Movement designed to chime with the fifth arbor, upon which it is occurs. the Westminster melody on four rods and mounted. Counting of the chime notes is by to strike the hour on three of the same means of the intervals between the slots rods. The movement is shown in the Exactly at the quarter hour, the in the count wheel. There are four pro­ locked position as it appears after chime lift lever on the No. 89 snaps back gressively longer intervals corresponding the third quarter. It is important to note down to its pre-warning position. The to the 4, 8, 12, and 16 notes played at that locking is accomplished by the lock­ warning lever then drops downward, re­ the quarter hours. The hammers them­ ing lever (5), held in the slot of the cam leasing the warning pin and the entire selves are lifted by pins driven into the (3). There is no locking pin on any of the gear train. Chiming begins. As the cam chime drum (12), which is made up of train wheels. turns, the locking lever remains just above brass discs fitted on the third arbor. the edge of the cam. It does not, how­ The chime cycle begins a few min­ ever, fall into the cam slot during chim­ Just before the end of the 16-note utes before each quarter hour. The chime ing. If it did, the gear train would be hour sequence, the chime movement un­ lift lever from the back of the No. 89 stopped in the midst of a note sequence. locks the strike train on the No. 89 move­ movement contacts the pin at the top of It is the count wheel that prevents this ment. The strike lift pin (1) on the count

April 1980/Horological Times 45 wheel pushes the strike lift lever (9) to the side. The lever in turn moves the strike warning lever on the back of the No. 89. The strike train goes to warning, but stays at this posi­ tion only for a few seconds, until the end of thehourchime sequence. After the last chime note, the strike lift pin moves past the strike lift lever, dropping it. The strike warning lever on the No. 89 is released, and striking begins. Follow­ ing the hour count, the strike train locks itself. Our chime and strike cycles are completed.

Adjusting the Sonora Chime Movement is best accom­ plished by taking care to assemble the movement correctly first. Random assembly means that you may have to take the movement apart again to remedy some error. With this in mind, I'll go through the assembly procedure. After the movement is adjusted, it must be installed in the case behind the No. 89, where further adjustments may be required be­ tween the two movements. WIDE BOTTOM Let's assume you have taken apart the chime movement, STEP-TURNED WALL then cleaned and repaired it. The movement pillars can now be Step-turned wall for easy fitting in one-piece water­ screwed to the rear plate. Install the second wheel, then the proof or regular cases. Wide bottom holds down barrel, followed by the rest of the gears, into the rear plate. movement securely. Sizes LT 18}2 to 32}2 Don't forget that the complete hammer assembly must be ORDER FROM YOUR WHOLESALER put in now (along with the bottom case brackets on our No. 119 movement). Make sure you add all the original spacers Set LT-6 and washers within the hammer assembly on your move­ 6 doz. LT LOK-TITE ment. Hopefully, you drew yourself a diagram before dis­ Crystals, sizes 18}2 to assembly, showing the number and sequence of the hammer 32}2, in drawer with parts! index cards, to fit G-S crystal cabinet. Before installing the front movement plate, you can put on the count lever and locking lever first, then the chime KEEP YOUR CRYSTAL INVENTORY warning lever. These go on the same post. Having these parts Trade in your old obsolete UPTO DATE in place now will help you to begin adjusting the movement crystal cabinet on the latest even as you fit the plates together. Bring the cam around so complete G-5 crystal sys- tem. (Your old set is prob- ,i:--::;.""fF~~ the locking lever goes into the slot. This puts the train in the ably worth more than you 1 locked position. Set the fly pinion in mesh with the fifth paid.) You can do it with '1l~~ l ~--"~­ no down payment or carry­ wheel, with the warning pin about Yz turn away from the ing charges-just very small monthly payments. Your warning lever. This establishes the proper run of the pin at wholesaler will then see warning. Now finish fitting the movement plates together. that you receive the latest assortments as issued and Leave the screws finger-tight, and set the remaining case you 'II always be ready to brackets aside for later. fill your customers needs. r ------, Install the count wheel in a trial position, without ' Germanow-Simon Machine Co., Inc. 1 pinning it. Add the count wheel drive gear (13), and fasten : 420 St. Paul St. Rochester, N.Y. 14605 I it with a taper pin. Your movement may have index marks I I I Please send me: 1 showing which of the two possible ways to put on the drive I L T-6 (6 doz. 18Y2 - 32Y2) gear, and also where it is to mesh with the count wheel gear. 1 D rn drawer Naturally, you still must check the adjustment, to assure the D G-S Catalog correct chime note sequences. D Info on latest G-S Crystal systems and assortments I suggest the following method for establishing the note sequences. Turn the gears manually, by touching the third wheel. The fly should turn clockwise as you face the front of the movement. Watch the hammers rise and fall. 1 Name Phone ______: Address ______Having determined beforehand which bell or rod sequence produces the four descending notes from the Westminster : City State ___ Zip ___ chime, look for that pattern in the hammer action. The point I I Wholesaler's Name I to be careful about is that the rods or bells may not be L------~ physically located in descending note order within the clock

46 Horological Times/April 1980 case. After observing the hammer pattern you have been looking for, stop the gears at that point. Pull off the count wheel, then remesh it with the drive gear so that the count Time for the Best in Time ... lever will rest in the % hour count wheel slot. This slot is the one that is reached following the rotation through the short­ BATTERY OPERATED est arc on the count wheel. . KI . QUARTZ ACCURATE I E N Z LE I Further checks are required. Turn the gears manually again and look for proper warning and locking. You may find CLOCK MOVEMENTS that the cam is slightly out of position at the end of the chime For Wall, Mantle and Desk Clocks sequences, and the gear train sometimes fails to lock. For locking to occur, the slot in the cam must be directly under KIENZLE the locking lever at the instant the count lever falls into the CHRONOQUARTZ count wheel slot. If an adjustment is necessary, you'll have to separate the plates slightly to accomplish it. Always make Accurate self-starting movement operates on a single "C" battery. 4, 194,300 vibra­ sure there is no mainspring power on. Then, separate the plates tions per second. Has metal sweep hand, enough to ease out the front pivot of the fifth arbor, which backhand setting, removable metal hanger. Furnished with all fittings, including rub­ carries the cam. Move the wheel and cam around to the lock­ ber washer, metal washer, brass centertix ing position under the locking lever. Check for proper run nut or hex nut and brass minute hand nut. Has standard Ameri­ can shaft available in W ', %", :V.." and W' lengths. Available also of the warning pin, also. Reassemble and test. as 24 hour movement; as day/date movement with 5Ya'' day/ date disk; also with bell on top, one strike on the hour, no You are now ready to finish the assembly of the rest of sweep, 314 " shaft. Size of movements: 2:i.ii" x 2%" x 1 Ya". the movement. Pin the count wheel on its post. Install the clickwheel (11) with the large washer and pin. Add the wind­ Complete Fit-Up Movements ing arbor (10) and curved cover plate. Insert the pin to hold Ready-to-insert round movements, the count lever, locking lever, and chime warning lever in 23/s" movement diameter and 15/s" deep, complete with brass bezel, place. Add the strike lift lever. The silencer lever is installed brass dial, hands and glass crystal. on the rear of the movement. Install case brackets on the Available in 3", 33/s" and 4" dial diame­ movement, then tighten the pillar screws. Wind the main­ ters. Movements spring and check operation. Oil the movement. only, 23/s" diam­ eter, 15/s" deep, available with 7/15" and 5/s" shafts. Putting the chime movement back in the case is the next step. The No. 89 goes into the case first, of course. It must be in good working order too, including the strike train. Care­ KIENZLE fully put the chime movement in place and fasten it down. PENDULUM Notice the two levers coming out of the left side of the rear plate on the No. 89. The upper one is the strike warning MOVEMENTS With or without bell; no sweep; 3/4" or 7/s" lever, and the strike lift lever on the chime movement must be shaft. Size: 43/, s" x 2'l's" x 1112''. Pendulums placed to the left of it. The lower lever is the chime lift lever. available in 8" 9" 1O" 12" 14" 16" 18" and 21" lengths meas'ured' fro~ shaft of movement to pendulum tip. Pendulum Turn the minute hand to the next quarter hour. Check bob is 23/4" diameter (8" pendulum bob is 21/s'') . Mini-pendulum available adjustable for chime movement unlocking, warning, and locking. Adjust from 2W' to 3112'' with 3/4" bob. All fittings the chime lift lever for more or less lift if necessary. The warn­ furnished. ing pin may need to be bent slightly, to assure that it will hit , Half hour and full hour strike move­ ments (Variostrike) with volume control the warning lever at warning, yet remain safely clear during of sound to silence. Available with or with­ chiming. out pendulum, chains and weights. Movements furnished with all fittings. At the hour, make sure the strike lift lever moves the strike warning lever on the No. 89 far enough to the right to ALARM CLOCK MOVEMENTS unlock the strike train. You may need to bend the strike 11 Sizes: 2Ya" x 2Ya" x 3/4 and 2%" x 29/1s" x 1". warning lever to the left, so it will receive more of a push from Kienzle also stocks barometers, hygrometers, ther­ the strike lift lever. mometers and a wide selection of dials, clock hands and This should complete the assembly and adjustment of numerals. See our complete line of mini, mini-mini and repeater alarm clocks. Immediate delivery on all items. the Seth Thomas Sonora Chime Movement. Start the clock running and observe its performance. Any problems in the For technical information and catalogs, call or write chime movement will soon become evident, because the KIENZLE TIME CORP., INC. chimes will be out of sequence. An example of this would be 3334 Commercial Avenue, Northbrook, IL 60062 the hour chimes and strike playing the half hour. On the other Phones: 312/564-1707 Telex: 72-4461 hand, a week of trouble-free operation indicates a job well KIENZLE-Associated with Time Since 1822 done. UDil

April 1980/Horological Times 47 We Salute These New Members!!!

GAYDOS, John H.-Michigan PHILLIPS, Robert G.-Washington GOLFETTO, Paul-New York PRICE, Donald M., Jr.-North Carolina GAVLICK, Donald A.-New York PROCTOR, Phil M.-Washington GEIGER, Ralph E.-Michigan RADMILOVIC, Roy-Ontario, Canada REEVES, Gene-Nevada BAHR, Bruce H.-Michigan GRIFFITH, Ronald-New York RIENZO, David A.-New Hampshire BENNETT, Gary-New York GROSS, Jay A.-Michigan RIVERS, James C.-Georgia BIERETZ, Robert L.-Pennsylvania GUENTERT, Andrew-Indiana BINGHAM, Neil A.-lllinois GUERIN, Mark-New Mexico SANDLIN, Terri-Texas BLISSETT, Everard-New York GUNDACKER, Bonnie-New York SHELTON, Bruce-New York BOOMER, G.-Oregon GUYOT, Claude E.-Maine SLADE, Stephen A.-Washington HANSEN, Robert-Michigan BOYNTON, George R.-New York SNOW, Richard W.-New York BRADLEY, Marcia L.-Michigan HARR IS, Michael-Texas STIBER, Jerry-Pennsylvania BROCKMAN, Donna-Texas HARTMANN, Bruce L.-Ohio STILES, Brian-Ontario, Canada BROOKS, John-New York HEVER LING, Jay D.-Pennsylvania STONE, Pete-Texas BROWN, Sandra-Virgin Islands HOLT, Donald-Wisconsin SUTH, Norm-Utah BRYANT, Barry N.-Louisiana HOPPMANN, Marvin D.-North Carolina SWEETEN, Eugene-Tennessee CARLYLE, Cornelia-New York IRWIN, Bruce-Florida JONES, Clifford E.-Utah THAYER, Robert-New York CARRERO, Evelyn-New York JORGENSEN, Craig M.-Michigan THOMPSON, Ron-Ontario, Canada CASTRO, Jose-Florida JUDY, Michael W.-lllinois TIPTON, Everett M.-Kentucky CHOP, Stanley T.-Connecticut Louis R.-Michigan TODD, Charles R.-Kentucky COMSTOCK, Hugh-Ohio ~AWAM, KENDALL, George 0.-Pennsylvania TODHUNTER, Davis L.-California CORWIN, Thomas G.,Jr.-New York TOPPING, Harold J.-New York CRONISTER, Joyce N.-Washington KNEECE, Lowell D.-Texas KUTSCH ERA, Charles M.-Maryland TURNER, Gregory $.-Michigan CROWE, John-New York TURTZO, John-Pennsylvania CURETON, Pilar-New York LALANI, Pyarali-Alberta, Canada LUTH, Vernon W.-Oregon VITTUR, Janet-Texas DASSAU, Charles, Jr.-New York WALKER, Frank A.-Texas DeHUES, Lyle E.-Missouri McLEOD, Peter-New York MAG IE, James-Texas WARDLAW, Stephen-Connecticut DiVIRGILIO, Larry-Florida WA YTENA, Robert-Ontario, Canada DUBOIS, Patricia A.-Maryland MARKS, Carol-Massachusetts WEI LBAKER, Karl-Illinois METHENY, Robert L., Ill-Rhode Island DUCK, Hubert-Tennessee WEINRAUB, Jack-Pennsylvania DU FORE, Mark J.-Pennsylvania MICHAEL, Philippe W.-Washington WHITE, Karen-Wisconsin EASON, Tony-North Carolina MITCHELL, Tamra C.-Michigan WILLIAMS, Roy V.-North Carolina MITCHELL, Thomas R.-Tennessee EISENBARTH, Anthony-New York WILLOUGHBY, Curtis G.-Ohio EMERSON, Donald W.-Florida MUXEN, Merle D.-Washington WILSON, James F.-Michigan FLEARY, Neil-Virgin Islands NIEVES, Elliot-New York WIMBERLEY, John-Texas FREEMAN, Peggy Sue-Texas PAIGE, Howard-Florida WRIGHT, Donald E.-California GASTIGER, Walter R.-New York PAWLUCZKOWZCZ, Walter-Florida WUNDER, Larry-Pennsylvania A DOUBLE OPPORTUNITY FROM AMERICAN PERFIT QUALITY= MINERAL GLASS WATCH CRYSTALS FROM BB & PRICE =A $5.00 REBATE CHECK FOR ANY LCB ASS'T PURCHASED The LCB-TB line of scratch-resistant, round, flat top crystals will enhance today's LCD or Quartz Analog watches. 0 ------Gentlemen: ------Please drop ship the following assortment plus your check for $5.00. Name I will pay my watch material supplier for the assortment. I ASSORTMENTS: Address I LCB-24 1 ea. 24 rd. flat top/bottom crystals ...... $40.00 City /State/Zip I __ LCB-40 1 ea. 40 rd. flat top/bottom crystals ...... $68.50 I I __ LCB-61 1 ea. 61 crystals, including 2 DoXA crystals ...... $102.50 Return to: I I Refills ...... $20.00/dz. each assortment labeled in a container. AMERICAN PER FIT CRYSTAL CORP. I I_ Of!:_~~':::!!.°!.!!:.!.C::,°------65.: El:~~~v~~ew_Yo~-~.. ~~~~3~---_J

48 Horological Times/April 1980 AWi Bench Courses/1980

8 C (a & b) Baltimore, MD Broughton Programs Instructors 8 D (a & b) Kansas City, MO Smith A Basic Electricity & Use of Meters Jeager 8 E Denver, CO Nelson B Citizen LCD Alarm Carpenter 26 A Boise, ID Jaeger C (a) Citizen LCD Multi-Alarm Broughton 30 A San Francisco, CA Jaeger C (b) ESA/ETA Quartz Analog Broughton JULY , 1980 D (a) Seiko 4300 Ladies' Quartz Analog Smith D (bl Seiko LCD Chronograph/Alarm Smith 1 A San Francisco, CA Jaeger D (c) Seiko 0903A Men's Quartz Analog Smith 2 A Sacramento, CA Jaeger E Intro. to Solid State Watch Repair Nelson 6 A Los Angeles, CA Jaeger F (a) Bulova Quartz Analog (SMQ) Opp 7 A Los Angeles, CA Jaeger F (b) ESA LCD Chronograph Opp 9 A Fresno , CA Jaeger G ESA Digital/Analog Biederman SEPTEMBER , 1980 14 A Birmingham, AL Jaeger APRIL, 1980 OCTOBER, 1980 8 A Daytona Beach FL Jaeger 10 A Tampa, FL Jaeger 19 G Richmond, VA Biederman

13 C (a & b) Newark, NJ Broughton 1------~------~--~- 13 G Pittsburgh, PA Biederman 13 A ?, IA Jaeger I Fl LL OUT THE INFORMATION FORM AND 18 D (b) ?,WI Smith I MAIL IT TODAY! 19 D (a) ?,WI Smith I 20 B Knoxville, TN Carpenter I 20 E Cincinnati, 0 H Nelson I I AM INTERESTED IN YOUR BENCH COURSE TO BE 20 F Minneapolis, MN Opp I PRESENTED ON AT I MAY, 1980 J .PLEASE

4 B Merrillville, IN Carpenter SEND ME MORE INFORMATION. 4 C (a & b) Salt Lake City, UT Broughton 4 F (a & b) Rochester, NY Opp 4 E Okmulgee, 0 K Nelson 17 D (a & b) Seattle, WA Smith 18 A Boston, MA Jaeger 18 G Findlay, OH Biederman ADDRESS: ______18 D (a & b) Spokane. WA Smith

JUNE, 1980 CITY, STATE, ZIP : ______B Detriot, MI Carpenter Please return this form to: F (a & b) Omaha, NE Opp AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211 G Ontario, Canada Beiderman

COMPLETE WATCH MATERIAL PARTS HOUSE YOU GENUINE REPLACEMENT PARTS FOR ALL FAMOUS and UN FAMOUS BRANDS (Including Current Japanese Imports) WANT COMPLETE LINE OF FINDINGS & TOOLS FOR WATCH REPAIRMEN AND ALL JEWELERS IT? Orders Are Shipped the Same Day They Are Received WE HAVE IT! 5 S. Wabash Ave. Chicago, Ill. 60603 TRY US TODAY Charles DVORKIN & Co. 312/726-8678

April 1980 /Horological Times 49 LUST'S ASTRONOMICAL

By Orville R. Hagans

ack in 1924, U. B. Lust, who owned a jewelry store in Fremont, Ohio, beganB construction of an unusual as­ tronomical clock with an eight ruby jeweled movement and a Graham dead beat escapement. It took Mr. Lust ap­ Figure 1 proximately eight years to construct his clock. Mr. Lust's meticulous craftsman­ ship is revealed in the illustrations­ one showing the entire clock in its handsome eight-foot tall, 29-inch wide, and 20-inch deep black walnut case finished in a rich semi-gloss to bring out the beauty of the wood (See Figure 1); the other showing a close-up of the dials and a partial view of the movement and weight assemblies. See Figure 2. Exacting specifications in the clock designed by Mr. Lust included ruby pallets and ruby train jewels; an adjusted mercury pendulum, and main­ taining power springs. The pinions were cut from crucible bar steel. Plates and wheels were cut from hard rolled sheet brass which was gold and nickel ph,ited. The astronomical dial is heavy silver plated and was cut as a skeleton to expose jewels, escapement, and train wheels to view. This clock was designed to carry the weight at the side of the case-as far removed from the pendulum as pos­ sible. This was to improve timekeeping qualities of the clock by eliminating the attraction that exists between masses which would be operative if the swinging pendulum and the hanging weight were to come in close proximity. Figure 2

SO Horological Times/April 1980 THECOSMOCHRONOTROPE (Formerly in the James Arthur Col­ lection, maker unknown.)

This instrument has three pairs of ver­ tical dials. The large dials in front nor­ mally show Eastern Standard Time (75th Meridian), but are set to Daylight Saving Time in summer. The right-hand pair of small dials at the back show the sun's Right Ascension in hours, minutes and seconds. The left-hand pair of dials at the back similarly show Side­ real Time of the 75th Meridian. At standard noon each day, Sidereal Time is the same as the sun's Right Ascension. The large horizontal dial or ring at the top above the globe indicates, under a horizontal arm which carries the sun, the date and the position of the sun in the Zodiac. The sloping dial or ring sur­ rounding the equator of the globe shows the local time at a place on any meridian. For instance, New York is practically on the 75th West Meridian. Follow this meridian line down to the equator (where it is distinguished by a red pointer) and New York time can be read against it on the sloping dial. Greenwich (England) is on Meridian 0, which is marked on the globe by an extra thick line showing Greenwich time on the same sloping dial. Greenwich time is five hours ahead of New York. The vertical crescent surrounding the globe marks the boundary between day and night. Looking at it from the sunny side, the left-hand edge covers all parts of the earth where it is just dawn; the right-hand edge covers places where the sun is setting. Seasons of the year are also correctly illustrated on this clock, al­ though the model is not to scale (be­ Figure 3 cause the model sun is comparatively too small and too close to the earth). The In winter, these places have continuous Watchmakers and Jewelers Assn. pub­ model sun goes right around the earth in night. The length of the day at any lished in 19 5 6 this fascinating article an easterly direction once a year and given place is the time taken by the on a surprise discovery by an eminent carries the crescent with it. The model corresponding point on the globe map university professor.) earth turns once in a sidereal day round a in passing across the sunlit side of the fixed inclined axis passing through the crescent. A new page in the history of clocks poles. In summer the north pole and was turned at London's Science Museum places near it are perpetually on the THE CHINESE HAD CLOCKS in January (1956) when it was revealed sunny side of the crescent, so at such 1,000 YEARS AGO that the Chinese had invented clocks places the sun shines for 24 hours a day. (The Diamond News and South Africa of a surprising degree of complexity

April 1980/Horological Times 51 over 1,000 years ago and hundreds of All this was now irrelevant armillary sphere. The last-named was years before the first recorded clocks because he had discovered and been at the top and of the same type as those of Western civilization. studying with his collaborators a Chinese used for examining the heavens, while The discovery had been made book written in A.D. 1092 which re­ underneath was the celestial globe, both by an eminent university professor, Dr. vealed that a whole tradition of clock­ being mechanized and part of the clock. Joseph Needham, F.R.S., a Fellow making had existed at that time; a fact The jacks appeared at windows under­ of Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge, not previously suspected by modern neath each quarter of an hour, or 100 who had with other experts, been studying historians. times a day, as the Chinese used the Chinese science and history. He disclosed The author, Su Sung, revealed decimal system for dividing their twelve the amazing result of his research in a that a number of astronomical clocks double-hour periods. The method of driving this lecture given to the Antiquarian Horo­ had been constructed before his time, logical Society. He admitted that up to and by the technical terms he used, made mechanism was a vertical shaft some six months before, he had been under the possible their identification in other 20 feet in length, operated through impression that when the Jesuit mis­ books as well. The traditions of clock­ right-angle and bevel gearing from the sionaries first went to China about making seemed to go back to the 8th main waterwheel. It appeared that in 1600, the mechanical clocks which they century. These clocks were not powered substitution for this shaft, the length took with them were something en­ by weights, but were driven by water of which gave rise to trouble, a chain tirely new to East Asian civilization. falling on a waterwheel, rather like a drive was later used. This also appeared However during the previous mill wheel. to ante-date all practical devices of this three months this conception had been kind previously known. It was described completely overthrown by the evidence Dr. Needham described such a by Su Sung as a "celestial ladder." he had gathered and which he could put clock and supplemented this with slides There was an escapement on the main before the horological world. of drawings, both general and detailed, driving-wheel in the form of steel-yard. At the earlier date, he had from Su Sung's book. It appeared that This prevented the wheel from turning thought that he might have spoken to the clocks were 30 to 40 feet in height, until one of the many scoops arranged his audience about sundials or burning­ in pagoda-shaped style, and embodying around its circumference was full of incense clocks. jack-work, bells, a celestial globe and an water, which came from a tank probably

Support the AWi - ELM TRUST Scholarship Program by Sending your old

~ The First Major Improvement }{E.!J in Dust Collectors in 40 Years watch batteries POLISHER/DUST COLLECTOR to the A superbly engineered unit offering the finest in performance and the best value in price available. Available with or without motor. AMERICAN RUGGED YET LIGHTWEIGHT EFFICIENT QUIET ECONOMICAL WATCHMAKERS For a free brochure contact: Dept. HT INSTITUTE

52 Horological Times/April 1980 holding about half a ton of liquid. The astronomer and mathematician. He also in 725 there was a brilliant monk, I-Hsing, scoop then tripped a lever which checked supervised the compiling of a pharma­ who in conjunction with another civil the wheel from above. copoeia. He travelled widely throughout servant, Liang Ling-Tsan, produced what There was also an anti-recoil China and as a youth, was successful may have been the first of this type of device to prevent the wheel from turning in his studies. clock, the technical terms used betraying backwards. In effect, the whole device its similarity to Su Sung's. This also could be said to be a primitive form of The Emperor ordered him to was made of bronze and iron. the late 17th-century anchor escapement make an armillary clock in 1086 for which is still used in modern clocks. which a model was first made in wood Dr. Needham referred to the Timekeeping depended mainly on the and then tested. It was satisfactory and fact that he had found a description of speed of flow of the water, but could a full-size one was made in bronze. a 5th-century armillary sphere with the also to some extent be regulated by earth fixed in the middle. The Chinese Su Sung gave a list of the scien­ varying the weight on the steel-yard. must thus have understood the sphericity tists and technicians who were responsible The clock would not have had a con­ of the earth just as the Greeks did. for the construction, including even the tinuous movement, but would have name of the clerk of the works. The After Su Sung, and in the closing operated every quarter of an hour. materials used were also noted. Su Sung years of the 11th century, there was Although it would seem that water was asked the Emperor to bestow a technical a controversy between the reformers generally used, mercury was also employed term on this piece of machinery, as no and the conservatives of that time and to avoid the freezing of the water in word existed in the Chinese language this led to the development of two winter. specifically for "clock." It does not rival schools of clockmaking. The wars Dr. Needham went on to tell appear that the Emperor had any good against the Chin Tartars led to the destruc­ about the author of this book which ideas. tion of several clocks and others were gives such a detailed description of destroyed by the Mongols, though the clockmaking. Su Sung, he said, was This was not, indeed, the first last Mongol Emperor was himself a born about 1030 and died in 1102. clock in China. A similar clock was clockmaker and a description of a clock He was a high civil servant, tutor to the recorded as having been built in 9 7 9, this he made is still on record. This was in Princes of the Emperor, and was a skilled being a mercury-driven one. In addition, 1354. UDE

It's about tiIDe ... Your Complete Digital The Digital ~ --· Watch Material and Equipment Supplier Electronic := - Over 80 popular LED and LCD module types in stock includ­ Watch • ing some universal types . Complete line of equipment and tools for the beginner as well Tum M. Hyltin • as the expert repairperson. Formerly of Texas Instruments Components - including: quartz crystals, LCD displays, trim • capacitors, LCD backlights, batteries, LCD alarm parts, push 224 pp. illus. Ii .\ 9, S19 BO buttons, module hardware, and much, much, more!

Repair service at reasonable prices on all quartz types includ­ It 's about time someone wrote a complete, non­ • ing LED, LCD, and quartz analog. technical guide to help you keep up with the digital watch revolution. Here, in this one book, you'll find all Custom Watch Service - Want your own digital watch line you need to know about how they work, how they're • that you back up with your own parts and service? We can help you get started. designed, and how to repair them. You really can't afford to be without this handbook, wiitten by one of the DIGITAL WATCH REPAIR HOTLINE! - Starting April original developers of electronic watches. 15, 1980, Mon. thru Fri. 9 AM - Noon. Do you have a ques­ tion about a digital watch you are repairing? Horolo~ical TimeH • Call - (215) 565-7611. P.O llox 11011 , Cincinnali, Ohio 4S211 Yl's. µkasc rush me " The Dig.ital E:lect.ronic Wateh." I am enclosing CALL OR WRITE FOR OUR FREE CATALOGUE $ i I .4 5 (cost $I 9 .9 5 plus SI .5 U for postag,e) U. S. funds only - !'lease allow approximately 4 weeks for delivery. Price subiPct to change. DIGITAL WATCH REPAIR ;\;~1mr: PARTS AND EOUIPMENT Address 1 STATE RD, MEDIA, PA 19063 C11.v ------Siale ----ZIP----- D<•pt. BK-1 1215) 565-7610

April 1980/Horological Times 53 ith the cost of gold soaring to all-time highs, the cost W of ring mountings has gone completely out of sight. Changing Heads, Mountings that a few years ago retailed for $30.00 now retail for well over $100 .00. It makes sense to re build or repair old mountings as this can be done for less than the cost Tops, Bezels, of re-mounting but requires more labor, putting more dollars in the repair department till. These repairs require more skill than basic jewelry repair as the metal work is more intricate And Replacing and diamonds and other stones have to be set. I will start with explaining how to change heads. As always, we start by analyzing the repair to be made and Sides And Shanks deciding if the repair can be made by replacing prongs or tips. If so, then the price of the head or top can be saved with a very small expenditure for material. Assuming the ring is a solitaire with a box or miracle head, the first step is to remove the stone as it will have to be set in the new head. As no stone is involved in the heating process, it will not be necessary to use the borax and alcohol burn off. Check the By Marshall F. Richmond solder joints where the shank joins the head (See Figure 1-A) and flux around them. Grasp the bottom of the shank op­ posite the head with the heavy duty tweezers and place on the asbestos pad with the head up. Weight the tweezers with the steel block anvil. Apply heat until the head and adjoining shank turn red, and with an old pair of 3-C or 5 watchmakers' tweezers, grasp the head and continue to apply heat until the solder starts to flow. With a little lift pressure, the head should easily lift out leaving the shank in the heavy duty tweezers. See Figure 1-B. The new head can be checked for angle to see if it will fit snugly in the shank. If not, the ends of the shank can be bent or filed until a good fit is made. Place the new head stone-side down on the asbestos pad and put the shank in the tweezers in the third hand tool. Adjust so the shank ends align against the sides of the head. After fluxing, place a small piece of gold solder on one side of the head where the shank is to be attached and apply heat until the solder flows, pulling it until it makes a good bond. If the other side is in perfect alignment, repeat the soldering operation. If the second side is not in perfect alignment, cool the ring and bend the shank until it is. Then solder, making sure the solder joint is like the first. While the ring is still hot, quench in the pickling solution and while still wet after rinsing, remove all oxides with the bronze wire brush on the polishing motor. Put the ring on the ring mandrel and with the rawhide mallot, tap it until round. If the head protrudes on the inside of the shank, put this protrusion in the groove on the mandrel while the rounding is being done. Then with a half-round file, remove this excess on the inside of the ring and then again round the ring on the mandrel. With a small needle file, file away any excess solder from the joints where the head joins the shank and polish the ring completely. Then the ring is ready for the stone to be set. I will not explain

Richmond, CMW

54 Horological Times/April 1980 stone setting at this time, but a future article will be devoted to consider before deciding to change a prong head. Many to stone setting. times by replacing prongs and/or tips, a ring can be made Changing the top only can be done by removing the even better and stronger than it was when new, or than it top if the base of the head is in good condition. This can be would be after a new head were installed. This should be done in two ways: either by sawing it off using a 6/0 saw considered. Also, if the prongs are long enough, they can be blade in the jewelers saw and sawing off the top where it is ftled down to the stone seat. By cutting a new seat lower in soldered to the base of the head, or by setting it up the same the prongs, the stone can be set lower which will make the ring as for head removal and heating only the top and with the as strong in the setting as when it was new. This procedure old 3-C or 5 watchmakers tweezers, lifting it off as the solder should be explained to the customer for approval as some starts to flow. Tops can be obtained without the complete customers object to the stone being set lower, but most really head from your material distributor in sizes suitable for any prefer it. Setting the stone lower is the fastest way to complete size stone or head. Caution must be used when removing a the job and can be done at a lesser cost with no material, thus top with heat so the heat does not penetrate down enough to yielding a good profit for the repairman. flow the solder between the head and shank, causing the Many gent's and ladies' colored stone rings with complete head to come out. Select the proper top for the head square, rectangular, oval, and even round stones are bezel and stone and see that it will be a proper fit. If it is slightly set. Occasionally, diamonds are also, so repair or replacement larger than the head, it will be acceptable as excess can be filed of bezels is a repair that we encounter often. A bezel is a rim away. Place the selected top stone-side down on the asbestos of thin metal burnished tightly around the edges of the stone pad and flux the corners. Then place a small piece of gold to hold it securely in place. This type of setting is so secure solder on each and heat until it flows. See Figure 1-B, Point A. that a hard knock will often break the stone rather than loosen Do not heat long enough to flow it away from the corners. it in the setting. Pre-fabricated bezels can be purchased from With the ring in the heavy duty tweezers weighted down with your findings supplier to fit most standard-size stones or you the steel block anvil, the head up, and the four corners level, can purchase bezel wire of different sizes from them to form place the top on and align. Apply heat, moving it around the your own bezels. See Figure 2, G and F. Although I stock top until the solder flows on all four corners and the head some bezels, I usually make them up by rolling a piece of gold settles tightly in place. See Figure 1-B, Point C. Inspect stock to about 0.4 to 0.5 mm thick and cutting a strip about to see that all four corners have good solder joints with no 2 to 3 mm wide, depending on the size necessary to fit the crevices or pits, and then quench in the pickling solution job. See Figure 2-C. After removing the stone and filing the and rinse. File away any excess metal on the edges until the old bezel away to leave a flat surface, I shape it around the top is smooth with the four prongs of the base. Completely stone with the various pliers necessary and cut the excess polish the ring. It is then ready for the ~tone to be set. length off midway on the side of the stone. The butt ends The same procedure is used in changing prong heads are hard soldered into a butt joint. See Figure 2, D and E. as in changing box or miracle heads. There are alternatives When this is done, the stone should fit freely in the bezel.

Figure 1

Beads holding stone / Point A (top)

April 1980/Horological Times SS Solder Joint

RINGA RING B

(Cl Metal Strip for Bezel

Butt Solder Joint ~ (E) End ....-- =------. View of Bezel Strip "' ' ,.,"·~:, (0) Formed \I L, Bezel Manufactured (F) Manufactured Bezel Bezel Wire LI Figure 2 To attach it to the ring, set the ring up by grasping the bottom first with tripoli and then rouge. Polish and clean the ring and of the shank with the heavy duty tweezers. Then place it on the job is complete. As there are many types and shapes of the asbestos pad and weight the tweezers with the steel block bezels, it takes a great amount of ingenuity and common anvil with the base for the bezel up and level. Flux both the sense to make and install all of them, but with practice and base and the bezel, and place the bezel in position on the ring experience, they become routine repair jobs. aligning it perfectly in place. Flux and place a small piece of Many engagement, wedding bands, and rings of all gold solder inside the bezel on the opposite side from the butt types show excessive wear on the sides under the stone. joint. Heat the ring and bezel from the outside, and when the In wedding and engagement rings worn together, this is usually solder flows enough to hold this point of the bezel securely, caused by rubbing against each other. These can be repaired cool and check again for alignment. Try the stone to see if it by putting new sides on them. As ladies' engagement and is a snug but free fit. When this is done, again flux the inside wedding rings with side stones are the most common to show and outside of the bezel and base and place several small up with this wear, we will use this type of ring to explain how pieces of gold solder insid.e the bezel where it joins the base. the new side or sides can be installed. The wear is usually Apply the heat starting where it is already soldered, and as the greatest just under the head and often extends to both the solder flows, move the heat around the bezel toward the sides where the shank connects to the side stone settings. other side where the butt joint holds the bezel together. In See Figure 3-A. Use a piece of gold sheet 0.4 to 0.5 mm thick applying heat, direct it more to the base than the bezel as it and cut out a curved piece to fit over the worn area as shown will take more to get the heavy base hot than the thin bezel in Figure 3-A. A good source for this metal is the back of a and will reduce the chance of melting a place in the new solid gold watch case that has been discarded in the old gold bezel. When the bezel and base both become red hot and the as it is of about the right thickness, or a piece can be thinned solder has been pulled through all around the bezel, quench by rolling out in the rolling mill. Use the ring as a pattern and in pickle and rinse in water. While still wet, use the bronze scribe an arc from the inside. Then scribe a larger arc to the wire wheel on the polishing motor to clean away any residues. width necessary to cover the area that is worn and long enough Inspect the solder joint for flaws and if there are none, again to reach from one end where the shank joins the side settings try the stone for fit. See Figure 2-A. It should set in the bezel to the other. The usual width of this piece is from 2 to 3 mm. level and free enough to fall out when truned over. If the Cut the piece out with a jewelers saw and try it for fit. Its bezel is too high over the stone, file away the excess, leaving being a little large will not matter as excess can be easily filed enough metal above the edge of the stone to burnish tightly away to achieve the desired shape when finished. Lay this over it. If the stone does not sit well or is too tight, a flat piece on the asbestos pad and flux. Then place several small bottom graver can be used to cut off any high spots inside squares of fluxed solder and heat until the solder flows com­ the bezel to obtain a proper seat. When the stone is seated pletely, covering the surface. Flux the worn area of the ring properly and the height of the bezel is satisfactory, burnish laying flat on the asbestos pad and place the plate in position, the edges tightly to the stone with a hand burnishing tool. aligning it perfectly on the ring. It is wise to weight the shank See Figure 2-B. These tools are shown in most tool catalogs of the ring so that if the plate shifts slightly it can be re­ and can be purchased from your material supplier at a small aligned with the pick while the solder is in a fluid state. While cost. After the bezel is tight all around the stone, any excess applying heat to flow the solder from the plate to the ring, metal over the edge of the stone can be filed away and the it must be moved and brought to the temperature. Flow the bezel polished with a hard felt buff on the polishing motor (Continued on page 66)

56 Horological Times/April 1980 Figure 3

Need high temperatures in tiny places? STOP AND THINK The amazing little Torch is so tiny hydrogen, propane, natural gas or it can throw a flame of 6300"F. Mapp. It's available with five tips through the eye of a needle. It sol· ranging in size from one large ARE YOU HAPPY WTil-1 YOUR PRESENT SUPPLIER? ders, brazes, welds and heats with enough to weld 16 ga. steel to one exacting precision in the smallest small enough to weld .002' copper places; uses oxygen and acetylene, wire. For free brochure write to: IF YOU COULD AND A NEW SUPPLIER TIIAT WOULD CATER

TO YOU-THE WATCH AND WATCH MATERIAL FINDINGS JEWELRY REPAIRMAN-EXCLU­ SIVELY, THAT WILL TRY TO Instrument STOCK ANYTHING YOU USE, - TIIAT WILL PROVIDE TOLL-FREE ORDER PHONES AND POSTAGE­

PAID ORDER CARDS, TIIAT WILL CRYSTALS TRULY APPRECIATE YOUR BUSI­ TOO LS NESS, TIIAT WILL GIVE YOU FAN­ EQUIPMENT TASTIC SERVICE AND SAVE YOU

SUPPLIES MONEY IN THE PROCESS, WOULD YOU BUY FROM THEM? BATTERIES

IF SO, PLEASE CAU.. FOR YOUR NEXT ORDER YOU WONT BE DISAPPOINIED

D Please phone me with more information. IN TENNESSEE 800-342-1482 o Please send free illustrated "Little Torch" Brochure. D Please send free Findings Booklet. NATIONWIDE 800-251-1406 NAME

IF OUR CUSTOMERS ARENT HAPPY, WE DONT DESERVE THEIR BUSINESS ADDRESS CITY ------STATE --ZIP----

TENNESSEE dEWELERS SUPPLY, INC. . Cb P.O. BOX 43561 ST. PAUL. MN 55164 Ess inr & . TOLL FREE 800·328-0205 401 CHURCH STREET - NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE 37219 -- 1ll 'Q'-' MINNESOTA 800-392-0334

April 1980/Horological Times 57 Bench Tips/ Joe Crooks

Square-Headed, Off Set Hammer

By Wilson L. Suggs, 206 Bayshore St., Fort Walton Beach, FL 32548

I have found a square-headed hammer to be very useful when replacing glass A in the sides of old Vienna Regulators where there is not much room to work. A round-headed hammer allows B you very little margin for error in trying to avoid glancing off the nail or brad and breaking the glass. The shaft on this hammer is set at a 45° angle to the square. The c hammer head is 5/16 in. square and 1 7 /8 in. long. When you set a flat side of the hammer on the clock glass to be molded or bradded in the frame, you will note that the handle is at a very com­ fortable angle to safely slide the hammer across the glass to drive in the small nails or brads without any danger of breaking the glass. See Figure 1.

I had a nice, old OG with a beautiful, hand-painted picture on the glass that had to be remolded in the frame. I was Figure2 frightened half to death that I would break the glass and there was no way always known that the slot in the frame it could be replaced. where the pendulum suspension spring After cutting a piece of card­ passed through had to be close, but board to place over the painted glass had never run into the upper suspension so it wouldn't be scratched, I tried your arm rocking enough to stop the clock. hammer. It worked so smoothly and Of course, it only rocked when the safely I couldn't believe it! pendulum was in place. Thanks for the hammer. I will Figure 1 think of you every time fuse it. Cy, this problem has stumped many the key on the square on the face of the clockmakers and not only on clocks clock. Then it would run a short time where the length of the suspension spring and stop. I carefully checked the beat is used to regulate the time. Often the and restarted it several times. It repeatedly suspension spring support is loose on CLOCKS REGULATED stopped in a short time. clock movements that are regulated by WITH KEY IN DIAL I removed it from the case and the pendulum bob nut, and this can also again installed it on a test jig. Without cause irregular timekeeping or stoppage. By Cy Felheimer, 524 Fern Avenue, the bob, it ran great and seemed to have It is good practice to check the Westmont, NJ 08108 plenty of power. I then looked it over suspension post for tightening when the carefully and found a small gap (point clock is disassembled for service. With On an old, 8-day, T and S, common C in Figure 2). Believe me, this gap was American clocks, most of these posts American movement, I did all the ap­ small and hard to see. However, it allowed are bradded from inside the plate. proved things to make it run, i.e., cleaned the upper suspension arm (B) to rock Make sure the post is perpen­ the movement, lubricated the springs, slightly from side to side, thereby dis­ dicular to the plate after tightening so oiled the pivots, bushed a couple of sipating part of the power that should that the swing of the suspension unit holes, etc. have gone to keep the pendulum swinging. won't fight the impulse arc of the verge I installed the movement in the Somehow the frame (A) had become saddle. If they do not swing on the same case after testing it for running on a jig. distorted slightly, allowing the small plane, the pendulum bob will wobble I put on the hands and watched it for gap between A and B. and the loss of power could make the regulation. The clock ran fine until I Upon reshaping the frame to clock stop, the same as with a twisted adjusted the pendulum suspension using close the gap, the clock ran fine. I have suspension spring. 'i.1Lill

58 Horological Times/April 1980 Book Review/Henry B. Fried

"Horological Dialogues"

Horological Dialogues, Journal of the American Section, Antiquarian Horologi­ cal Society, Volume I, 1979. 56 pages, 9% x m. fully illustrated at $5. 00.

This publication is the first annual edition of notable papers delivered during 1979 at meetings of the American section of the (British) Antiquarian Horological Society. It is also the official publication "This initial volume is a noteworthy of this American organization. Its title, Horological Dialogues, was taken to honor the first book on horology in the effort and its contents reveal some English language, originally published in 16 7 5. This initial effort of this select unusual information and instruction." group of scholarly collectors contains four major contributions. The first is by William Andrewes, current curator of the Time Museum at Rockford, IL. Mr. Andrewes was formerly assistant to George Daniels, the world's foremost reconstruction of this movement is fully Peter S. Honig is a young man maker of the finest, hand-made, inno­ documented with many illustrations and who has made a study of pocket and vative complicated watches. The con­ photographs of the highest quality. The portable sundials, astrolabes, and other tribution made by Mr. Andrewes is author gives the reader an insight into ancient timetelling instruments. As a "John Harrison: A Study of His Early the remarkable and successful techniques craftsman in the shops of the Williamsburg Work." and devices used by Harrison, a man who restoration in Virginia, employing ancient was originally trained as a carpenter and tools and methods in the manner of George C. Kenney, President of who lived in provincial surroundings, yet early craftsmen, he "learned that many the American Section of the Antiquarian was nevertheless able to succeed in one of complex operations can be accomplished Horological Society and a collector of the most difficult and demanding of without the use of electricity," substi­ Quare's products, has authored "Daniel fields. tuting patience and much time. A personal Quare Key hole Clocks." examination of Peter Honig's work and detailed photographs of his products The reconstruction of the grass­ in various stages of disassembly show the An unsigned, short, but illustra­ hopper escapement, wheelwork, and quality of his craftsmanship. This article ted report entitled "A Striking (Salomon) pivoting is profusely illustrated. In terms is a detailed report on how he accom­ Coster Clock," and "The Construction of illustrations, this twenty-seven page of An Astrolabe" by Peter S. Honig, expostion is one of the best of its kind. plishes the tasks, as well as the tools make up the remainder of this first and methods he uses. It helps one appre­ ciate and understand these charming, volume. George C. Kenney reports on his older devices. research on the work and designs of Daniel The general format follows that Quare (1649-1724), one of England's A few interesting advertisements of its British parent publication, Anti­ finest makers and inventors. Quare's of antique horological items, together quarian Horology. clocks with ornamented, keyholed false with spot reproductions of some pages backplates are the subject of the Kenney of John Smith's seventeenth-century This initial volume is a note­ study. Here the author's ten page re­ Horological Dialogues and a full page worthy effort and its contents reveal search paper recounts his studies of reproduction of the engraving by Phillip some unusual information and instruc­ a Quare bracket with exceedingly plain Galle of a drawing by Jan Van der Straet tion. Mr. Andrewes' article on John backplate except for four curious key (Stradanus) showing a contemporary Harrison, the "discoverer of longitude," holes. These, his later searches revealed, clockmakers workshop, complete this concerns Harrison's work up to 1 730. were for the positioning of an ornamented notable first edition which should be­ The author, Mr. Andrewes, became false back plate. come a collector's item. involved in this area of study when he started to restore and complete, under Mr. Kenney later shows eighteen George Daniel's guidance, Harrison's photographs of other clocks by Daniel Copies may be had from Robert unfinished regulator movement, now on Quare employing this feature. These Stenard, business editor of the organiza­ display at the Museum of the Worshipful photos show details of the case finish tion, at $ 5 .00 each. Address requests Company of Clockmakers at The Guildhall and general clock styles, some of which to R. K. Stenard, 60 1st Street, Garden Library in London. The restoration and had ebony as the case material. City, NY 11530. liDB

April 1980/Horological Times 59 t is sometimes necessary to replace a hairspring in a watch I and the watchmaker must be competent in quickly selecting and vibrating the right kind of hairspring. Although HAIRSPRING it seems much more profitable to send this kind of job to businesses which specialize in it, it is often to our advantage to do it on the premises. On a number of occasions, I have VIBRATING had to correct errors made by the springers. If I were unable to do so, the repair would have been less than satisfactory to the customer. By It is my firm belief that a watchmaker must be able to competently perform all aspects of hairspring manipulations. Joseph The ability or inablilty to do so is the dividing line between mediocrity and excellence. The road to hairspring mastery Rugole is difficult. It can only be travelled with countless hours of practice combined with substantial theoretical knowledge. I will admit that it is difficult to develop enthusiasm among older watchmakers for this kind of work. Economic consi­ derations seem to prevail every time we resolve to spend some extra time on the job .that we have little chance of getting paid for. The younger watchmakers and the students, however, should have no excuse. They will benefit many times from acquiring the needed skills while still in training. A watchmaker who decides to engage in hairspring replacement must first determine what kind of hairsprings to stock. Modern watches use alloy mainsprings in which elasticity is not affected by changes in: temperature. Most watches made before 1925 or so used steel hairsprings although alloy types were developed around the turn of the century. A watch which has a bi-metallic split balance wheel must be fitted with a steel hairspring. To do otherwise would mean to introduce a large temperature error in the system. More will be said about this at a later time. Since using steel springs means servicing older types of watches, let us leave this area and concern ourselves with the more modem types. The alloy hairsprings come in many varieties, but basically they have one conunon characteristic. The elasticity of alloy hairsprings is not appreciably affected by changes in temperature. The quality of hairsprings also varies consi­ derably depending on the type of alloy, various tolerances, and quality control. It is best to use the No . 1 grade for all purposes; the difference in price is not worth considering when buying a stock for repair purposes. Since the hairspring collets come in many sizes and the hairsprings in many strengths, one would need a selection of colleted harisprings too large to be economical for a smaller shop. It is better to buy hairsprings uncolleted and learn how to coll et them quickly and effectively. Selecting a harispring for a given balance wheel has also become a little more complex in the last twenty or thirty years. The problem is the large number of watches with so­ called fast beats. Before 1940, the standard beat of the balance was 18,000 vib/h or 300 per minute. Many watchmakers developed some very specific techniques for preselection of . ~ hairsprings. These only work for the standard beat of 18,000 I vib/h. Following are two of them: First, with the balance I --,-- wheel suspended from a hairspring in such a way that the bottom pivot just touches the surface of the bench, the hairspring should stretch for exactly ~ in. to be suitable for vibrating to that balance wheel. It is also necessary for it to Figure 1. Modern hairspring with double bend. The radius of have between 12 and 15 coils, and for its diameter to slightly the spring is two to three pitches smaller than the radius of the exceed the radius of the balance. Another way to quickly regulator pins. determine a suitable hairspring for vibration is to suspend the

60 Horological Times/April 1980 balance wheel from it and count the number of spaces between the collet and the tweezers through which one can see light pass. If nine such spaces are visible, the hairspring is suitable for vibrating. The method of suspending the hairspring has also changed slightly. While beeswax is still used as a temporary adhesive, art gum or Rodico work equally well. Preselection is achieved in the following manner: A small piece of beeswax is placed between the fingers and gently rolled until formed into a uniform ball shape. It is important to keep the wax warm and soft between the fingers. When the ball is properly formed, it should be quickly placed ...... on the bench top and the balance wheel pivot should be ...... pushed into its center. The wax which will stay on the balance b ...... staff should now be transferred to the center of the hairspring ,. and gently pressed down. If the wax is still warm, the coils JO of the hairspring will penetrate it without cracking it. When _I ___ _ a handled carefully, the hairspring can be vibrated to a close - approximation without attaching the collet to it. Art gum - - - or Rodico can be used in a similar manner. They have the advantage of being equally pliable even when cold and hold the hairspring well enough for preliminary vibrating. The only way to preselect the fast beat hairsprings is to vibrate them to a watch or stop watch. Before we can Figure 2. The difference in the length of arc at the coll et and do that, we must determine the beat of the watch. The beats at the outside coil for the same angle of 30 degrees. of some modem watches are listed in technical bulletins or in special charts supplied by distributors of timing machines. Once the number of oscillations is established, the When such listings are not available, the beat can be calculated approximate strength of the hairspring can be determined by the formula CTFE x 2=N. The CTFE represent the Center, by previbrating as described above. Although previbrating tfe does not have to be very exact, it must be close enough to Third, Fourth, and Escape wheel teeth. The t, f, and e are be able to tell within 72 coil what the diameter of the hair­ third, fourth, and escape wheel pinions. Dividing N gives spring will be. 60 Before we decide to collet the hairspring for accurate us the number of vibrations per minute, and since it is too vibrating, we must first check if the radius of the spring is difficult to count vibrations, we divide this number by 2 and suitable for the balance. To do that we measure the diameter obtain oscillations per minute. The table below gives some of the spring to the vibrating point and divide by two to get examples of various beats per hour and the corresponding the radius. This radius of the spring may be too large or too number of oscillations per minute. small for the space available between balance hole jewel and the regulator pins. If such is the case, we can find out the correct hairspring number mathematically. Beats per hour Oscillations per minute Modern watch hairsprings are identified by the CGS number. The CGS is the unit of force which will give the mass 18,000 150 of one gram an acceleration of one centimeter per second. The basic units of the system are C=centimeter for length, 19,800 165 G=gram for mass, and S=second for time. This system follows 21,600 180 certain rules for classifying hairsprings according to their 23,400 195 elastic strength and the radius. When the radius of a spring 25,200 210 which vibrates correctly is known but not correct for the 27,000 225 movement in question, the correct strength of the hairspring 28,800 240 with the proper radius can be calculated by this formula: 36,000 300 K=Ki ( ~)2 where K=the CGS number of the desired RI fContinued on page 65)

l\~A.lr1Clti A\l()JIUilrM~~T~ by JOSEPH RUGOLE, CMW .

April 1980/Horological Times 61 New Products

An American Debut:

SWISS TECHNOLOGY BLENDS WITH FRENCH ELEGANCE

One hundred fifty elegant French one year it became one of Britain's beauties made their debut in biggest selling line of fashion New York City as Switzerland's watches. Heuer Time & Electronics Cor­ As fashion-concious poration introduced its first line Britons began to buy Herbelin of fashion, high performance as a second watch to compli­ watches ever offered to Ameri­ ment different styles of jewelry cans in a middle price range. and fashion, Heuer predicts the The debutantes are from same buying trend will develop the Michel Herbelin line of among U.S. consumers. Paris fashion watches. Ranging Michel Herbel in watches in price from $150 to $350, are manufactured in Herbelin's the Herbelin watches were in­ plant in Chacoument, France near troduced at the Retail Jewelers the Swiss border, where they of America Spring Show. produce over 300,000 watches Michel Herbelin will a year, with sales growing at a be distributed in the United rate of 30 percent a year. States fashion boutiques, jewelry, and department stores. This line The watches displayed is designed to strengthen, and at the Retail Jewelers of Am~rica widen the established ties with Show included a model which the trade that the Heuer organi­ won the 1979 "Oscar" award John Hubacher (left), executive vice-president of Heuer Time and given by the jewelers of France Electronics Corporation, America; Jean Claude Herbelin, vice­ zation in America has built over president of Michel Herbel in Watches; and Jack Heuer (right), the past 20 years in marketing for the best watch design of president of Heuer Leonidas SA its world-famous electronic stop­ the year. watches, chronographs, and other Also represented were a high technology timing devices. line of his and her watches, petite "The association of bangle-style ladies' bracelet watch­ Heuer with Michel Herbelin is es, broad-faced men's watches a marriage of Swiss technology with classic Rom an numerals, with French chic," explained and a wide variety of dress Jack Heuer, President. "The off­ watches with color coordinated spring of this marriage is a line faces and straps of burgundy, of affordable high fashion watches grey, blue, black, brown - and that will influence Americans' silver and gold. Most of the concepts of watch-buying and watches are available with quartz watch-wearing." movements. These watches range Heuer explained that in price from $150 to about his company originally decided to $350, with 70 percent of them introduce the Michel Herbelin priced below $250. line to fill a market gap in England Although new to Ameri­ between the inexpensive, mass­ ca, Herbelin's high fashion watches marketed watches and the costly are sold widely in over 70 other Swiss name brand models. The countries, including the watch Herbelin line was introduced to conscious nations of Switzerland England in late 1976, and within and Japan.

62 Horological Times/April 1980 EXHIBITION OF marble-front regulators; "Vienna" For complete informa­ corporate office on January 14, EDWARD HOWARD style regulators; tower clocks; tion regarding specifications and 1980. TIMEPIECES watches of various models, sizes price, write to Sonicor Instrument Present San Antonio and designs; clock and watch Corporation, Dept. HT480, 1365 On May 1, 1980, the Museum of branch customers will receive movements; factory memorabilia; Marconi Blvd., Copiague, New equally fast and complete ser­ the National Association of Watch and advertising complete the York, 11726. vice from Dallas through the and Cloc_k Collectors in Columbia, exhibition which runs through WATS telephone lines already Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, October 31, 1980. available to the Dallas office, will open its second annual where stocks are kept in much summer exhibition. Products of NEW SHIP'S BELL larger quantities and variety. the various companies founded STRIKING CLOCK in the 19th century by Edward INTRODUCED BY These customers may SONICOR INTRODUCES dial 1-800-442-3092 from any­ Howard of Hingham, Massachu­ BOSTON CLOCK "POWERSON," NEW sets are this year's subject. Boston Clock, a division of the where in Texas direct to the HIGH-POWER SMALL Dallas order department. There Howard and his partner Chelsea Clock Co., is introducing ULTRASONIC CLEANER is no charge to them whatsoever. Aaron L. Denniion are credited the QS 40; a unique battery A new series of ultra-high-power Swest is most apprecia­ with being the first to introduce operated, ship's bell striking clock. small ultrasonic cleaners has just tive of the support the San factory methods, automatic ma­ No winding is necessary as a been announced by Sonicor Instru­ Antonio jewelers and watchmakers chinery, and interchangeable parts single C-cell battery powers th is ment Corporation, Copiague, New have given through the years, to American watchmaking in quartz clock for a year. York, manufacturer of a wide and sincerely hopes they allow 1850. Earlier, in 1842, Howard, The traditional ship's range of off-the-shelf and custom Swest to continue serving them David P. Davis, and Luther bell code is struck every hour built ultrasonic cleaning systems. from the Dallas headquarters. Stephenson had combined their and half-hour, while combined With the continued updating of talents to manufacture scales. with quartz accurate timekeeping. Swest Dallas operation and facili­ Stephenson was dropped from The heavy forged brass or chrome ties, including computerized in­ the partnership in 1847 as Howard case has a screw bezel and 4Y, inch ventory control and improved and Davis began to concentrate dial. telephone service, Swest hopes on producing precision timepieces The Boston Quartz to give even more efficient for railroads and jewelers. Another Shipstrike Clock is sold through and speedy service than ever venture was the manufacture of marine chandleries, jewelry, and before. bicycles. With each of these clock shops at a suggested re­ For further information various products, the name of tail p/ice of $300 in brass and contact Swest, Inc., 10803 Com­ Howard came to be synonymous $320 in chrome. A matching Designated the "Power­ potite Drive, Dallas, 75220; with high quality. barometer is also available for Tex~s. son" Series, these units are 1725 Victory Boulevard, Glendale, Included in the exhibi­ $200 in brass and $220 in chrome. produced in three stock sizes: California, 91201. tion are two complete series of For more information, 3/4, 1, and 1 1/2 gallon capacity Howard wall clocks: the six write to Chelsea Clock Co., tanks. Available options include a "banjos" derived from the Willard 284 Everett Ave., Chelsea, Mas­ AUREA JEWELRY built-in heater with preset thermo­ patent timepiece of the early sachusetts 02150. CREATIONS stat, a 0-30 minute timer, and 1800's and the five "figure­ a power control for sensitive Aurea Jewelry Creations designs eight" timepieces of the early items. The solid state power jewelry for holiday drama. Wheth­ 1860's. Astronomical regulators; generator operates at 150 W, er necklines plunge or are demure 45 kHz. Optional accessories in covered up elegance, a touch of include covers, baskets, insert diamonds and lace enhance the trays, ring racks, beakers, and fashion look to greater heights. beaker racks. Sparkling diamonds and fine gold in a scallop design trace the According to Mr. L.J. neck, while gold redefines the Principe, Sonicor V-P Sales, the ear with a sleek, faceted diamond "Powerson" is ideally suited for earring. cleaning small items such as small electronic instruments, printed circuits, machine parts, castings, optics, jewelry, dental, SWEST COMBINES and surgical instruments-in both TEXAS OFFICES manufacturing and maintenance Due to the close geographical operations. In addition to the proximity of Dallas and San "Powerson" line, Sonicor also Antonio, scarcity of experienced manufactures larger capacity ultra­ personnel, and ever increasing sonic cleaning units and custom­ inventory expense, Swest, Inc. Howard Regulator Model designed systems built to meet combined its San Antonio office No. 10. special requirements. and warehouse with its Dallas

April 1980/Horological Times 63 NEW PRODUCTS (Continued)

NEW WELDING TORCH an 1870 European Vienna Regu­ in a luxurious brown ultra-suede SAVES ON FUEL lator. gift case. CONSUMPTION Howard Clocks feature "These watches contain An oxy-acetylene torch which an exclusive 8-day brass move­ our finest precision quartz move­ offers a saving in gas consump­ ment, equal or superior to move­ ments, and the cases, dial treat­ tion of up to 80 percent over ments made since 1842, according ments, fittings, and bracelets conventional units is manufactured to the manufacturer, and only reflect the styling superiority and by an Australian company, Nitro 2,000 clocks of all types are excellence which the American Enterprises Pty. Ltd., and is produced per year. Cabinetry is consumer has come to expect handcrafted from selected wood, of Seiko products," Mort marketed by lntertrade Pty. Ltd. to be welded do not require The "Dillon Mklll" such as Honduras mahogany and Gershman, Seiko Time Corpora­ cleaning, since the flame itself welding torch is the product black walnut. Each clock is tion vice president of sales stated. removes all foreign materials from of more than ten years of re­ furnished with a signed certifi­ "As a full line watch the welded area. These features search and development. It can cate of authenticity providing company and the world leader provide greater economy, higher be used to weld most metals, serial number and date of man­ in quartz, we're thus making efficiency, and improved results. including 86 percent magnesium ufacture. Seiko's outstanding quartz tech­ Distributors are being and aluminum alloys, without nology available in fine gold sought for this new welding using additional inert gases, and unit that allows an operator to jewelry to meet increasing market it offers benefits in light and complete a variety of tasks demand for this category of heavy applications. Creative jewel­ using just three interchangeable prestige timepieces," Mr. Gershman ry, plumbing, and pipeline work tips. Most conventional torches said. in heavy industry are all fields can require up to 43 different David Strousse, vice for its use. tips. president of advertising said, The patented design of The three welding tips "Seiko will support its new the torch provides for better can handle a wide range of gold watch introduction with gas mixing, less heat loss, and materials and application. The full color ads in Newsweek, more efficient burning than con­ finest tip uses gas at about 1. 75 The New Yorker, Harper's Bazaar, ventional equipment. The low gas cu. ft. per hour. The second tip Vogue, and Town and Country, pressure used (4 psi) results uses about 3 cu. ft. and the in addition to a saturation spot in the reduced consumption of largest tip uses gas at 4 cu. ft. per T\t campaign in major markets." gas. hour. The torch maintains the Mr. Strousse further stated, "The The unit's flame is hot­ Howard Clocks are low pressure and low volume of advertising like the product it is ter, at about 3, 742 degrees C priced from $700 each, depending gas while pre-heating, welding, supporting will wed the luxury (6,800 degress F), than the on model. Literature is available and cutting. and value of gold jewelry with flame produced by conventional on request. Trade inquiries should the precision, technology, design welding torches, about 3,315 For more information be addressed to Intertrade Pty. and quality which catapulted degrees C (6,000 degrees F). contact The E. Howard Clock Ltd., P.O. Box 77, Seaton, Seiko to the number one position With its excellent operator con­ Company, William Titus, Jr., South Australia 5023. in the American better watch trol, the flame process offers National Sales Manager, 256 market during the last decade numerous opportunities for the Charles Street, Waltham, Massa­ using the theme 'Seiko makes improvement of existing welding chusets, 02154, (617) 894-0620 Gold Even More Precious'." operations. HISTORIC The theme will be car­ The design of the torch WEIGHT-DRIVEN CLOCKS ried out in not only the national makes welding aluminum, lead, SEIKO INTRODUCES REISSUED IN LIMITED advertising but also in a coordi­ and other problem materials no LARGEST SINGLE EDITIONS nated point-of-sale display pro­ more difficult than the welding Limited edition, American-made INTRODUCTION OF gram, which includes a rich and of steel. Without flux it welds replicas of classic 19th century SOLID GOLD ANALOG luxurious watch display to match cast iron, galvanized iron, mild weight-driven clocks are available QUARTZ WATCHES the elegance of the new gold steel, and copper. Copper is from The E. Howard Clock IN HISTORY watches. Retail advertising and welded without burning. Cutting Company, of Waltham, Massachu­ Seiko has announced the largest other sales promotion materials sheet steel, stainless steel, brass, sets. single introduction of 14k solid for the new gold watches will cusselman bronze, inconel, cast Howard Clocks are gold analog quartz watches in also be offered. iron, and cast steel can be carried exact, American-made reissues its history. out with little or no distortion or of classic 19th century weight-driv­ The 60 new men's and oxidation. en timepieces originally manu­ ladies' 14kgold high-quality analog The torch has a dry factured by The E. Howard quartz watches, several of which flame, with no "wet spot" in the Clock Company between 1842 have diamond studded cases, will center of the weld area, and and the turn of the century. bemarketed nationally in the U.S. does not oxidize the work. A Meticulously constructed to the this Spring. Suggested retail prices coating of anhydrous nitrite is standards set by Edward Howard of the Seiko gold line will range deposited on the surface of the (1813-1904), they include an from $4 75 to $6,250. There are welded metals to inhibit cor­ 1842 Simplified Willard-Style 19 men's models and 41 for the rosion. In most cases the materials Banjo, an 1860 Figure-Eight, and ladies. Each watch will be packaged

64 Horological Times/April 1980 QUESTIONS AND"ANSWERS through to the back, and that in turn wheel pzmon. Place the movement on (Continued from page 14) drives the large minute wheel in the a sturdy movement rest, tube-type, and correct directions. with this punch and its pivot-like end fitting into the minute wheel, lightly pieces with twin dials, the center post To remove the driving wheel that punch this part out from front to back. is the connection. However, this would enmeshes with the large minute wheel It is almost impossible to try this part entail an additional wheel to reverse the on the back, you will have to eject the out as there just isn't enough room direction on the movement side. post or minute wheel pinion (front of between that driving pinion on the back In this Landeron model, that the movement). This will free the entire and the bridges to obtain a purchase problem has been cleverly solved by dial train and, hopefully, your troubles. for any prying tool. making the minute wheel the driving To do so, you will have to have a staking If you have any further difficulty, shaft. The minute wheel shaft goes punch with a fine leading cylindrical write again. In fact, let us know how through the whole movement right post that will fit into the front minute you've made out. ur::ID

WATCH ADJUSTMENTS Only when synchronization is achieved should the stop watch (Continued from page 61) be set in motion. The count should consist of units of ten so that numbers 20, 30, 40, etc. are not pronounced, but in spring, K 1=the number of the spring which vibrates correctly their places, numbers 2, 3, 4, etc. are used. This is necessary but is of wrong radius, R=the radius of the regulator pins, and to eliminate the delay caused by pronouncing long numbers R 1=the radius of the spring Kl· It is better to measure the which can cause a problem in our synchronization and thus radius of the regulator spring slightly smaller to prevent the miss one or more counts. Another very important step is second co~ of the hairspring from hitting the regulator pin. the finishing of the count. When the last count is reached, This adjustment in measurement should be made before the one must wait for the balance arm to return to the starting CGS number is calculated. The same should hold for modern position before the stop watch is stopped. Using these tech­ hairsprings with double bend as in Figure 1 which have the niques, a new harispring can be vibrated to within or.e minute radius 2 to 3 pitches of the spring smaller than the radius of in 24 hours. the regulator pins. It is wise to previbrate the newly selected Hairsprings for fast beat watches, or any other for spring just to make sure that the calculations are correct. that matter, can be vibrated by using a watch with the same After colleting the hairspring in the manner previously frequency of the balance. The balance can be suspended over described, it must now be accurately vibrated. There are several the upper balance jewel of the watch, the balance arms lined methods of vibrating depending on the equipment one has up with those used for reference, and then both set in motion. at hand. For a standard beat watch, one can use any watch The balance amplitude must be kept small so that close ob­ with a second hand, a stop watch, or a master vibrator. The servation can be maintained over a period of at least% minute. latter is a very well-designed tool which nevertheless is be­ If the two balances keep in step, the hairspring is vibrated coming increasingly unpopular due to a large number of fast properly. If they start going out of step, one must determine beat watches. There is provision for replacing master balances which of the two balances is faster. If the reference balance with different beats, but unless one specializes in springing, is faster than the one tested, the hairspring must be shortened the tool is simply too expensive. The features of the master and vice versa. The principles of vibrating are the same as vibrator as well as its operation are adequately described in those used with the master vibrator except that it is not as many books and will not be repeated here. easy to start the balances at the same time. A watch with seconds hand can be used by placing When the vibrating point is found, it must now be the watch on the bench and suspending the balance and the compared with the point of attachment at the collet. For all spring so that the bottom pivot just touches the glass. The practical purposes, the point of attachment should be on the balance is set in motion and the seconds hand must be observed same radius as the regulator pins, although with some watches at the same time. The count is started when the seconds hand of better quality it is better to have it slightly to one side. reaches one of the clearly identifiable divisions. The first If this is not done, short amplitudes could prove to be faster few tries should be counted for only about 20 to 30 seconds than long ones. It should never be allowed to have the point to establish the proximity of the vibrating point. When the of attachment further than 90° from the radius of the regu­ count becomes close, it should be extended to one full minute. lator pins. Such a watch would be a poor timekeeper. When The difficulty with this method is the need to observe the fully wound, it would be much faster than after some hours balance wheel and the seconds hand at the same time during of running. Dial positions would also be much faster than start and finish of the count. It takes considerable experience pendant. In other words, the rate of the watch would vary to master this method. with the variation in amplitude of the balance, i.e., the watch Using a stop watch simplifies the procedure somewhat. would not be isochronous. When the count is started, the stop watch must also be started If it is necessary to move the point of attachment, at the same time. Since we need not look at the stop watch, the hairspring must be repinned at the collet. Before this is the concentration on observing the balance wheel is that much done, one must determine how much of the hairspring must better. The exact procedure should be as follows: The balance be removed. The same amount must then be added to the wheel is set in motion. It is advisable to keep the amplitude outside coil. If this is done, the vibrating point will then be less than 180° so that the balance arms can be observed with­ at the new le cation. This will again disturb the relationship out having them crossing one another. Concentrate on one between the point of attachment and the vibrating point, side of the balance arm only and start counting when the arm but not a great deal. Figure :2 shows the difference in the comes to a stop and begins to reverse itself. To get in tune length of the spring at the fir~t coil and at the outside coil with the balance, start counting a few numbers and repeat for the same angle. This is t~e reason why the adjustment them until your counting is synchronized with the motion of the point of attachment sh

April 1980/Horological Times 65 coil for this purpose, it is better to remove a little more than it was intended to be. If a little more of the spring is removed, the first measurements indicated. This is necessary because it seems at first that the pinning point will be too far on the the vibrating point will also have to be moved further toward opposite side, but when we revibrate the spring, it will be the end of the spring for the exact amount we have removed located closer to the intended location than if an exact amount at the collet, and the pinning point will not be located where of the hairspring were removed. ucrn

by precleaning and use the borax and alcohol burn off. With THE PICKLE BARREL the heavy duty tweezers, grasp the top part of the ring by the (Continued from page 56) head and place on the asbestos pad with the wedge ends up. File the "v" in each end of the shank that you have prepared solder slowly by moving the flame about, over, and around and flux both the wedge and "v." Flow a little gold solder the plate. After the solder flows, check around the edges to on the end and inside of the shank, being careful not to let make sure the solder is visible all around the plate with no it flow into the filed "v." If you have steady hands, you can holes or pits. As this ring will most likely contain stones, cool hold it in place with a second pair of tweezers while applying it slowly and then pickle in a hot solution or boil in the copper heat from the outside, flowing the solder and pulling it through pickle dipper. Remove the residues with a bronze wire brush the joint. Cool slowly until it can be handled and with pliers, wheel on the polishing motor. If both sides need replacing, align the other joint until a perfect fit is obtained. Then flux repeat the process on the other side. File to shape using the and solder it the same as the first joint. If you used the old necessary files and polish and clean. Then the ring is finished shank to obtain the length of the new one, the ring should unless it is necessary to replace the pierced pattern usually be about one half to one size too small. If this is the case, found on the sides of engagement and wedding rings. This place it on the steel ring mandrel and with the chasers hammer, pierced pattern is not necessary but is generally put in rings tap it out to size. File away any excess metal and file the to save gold and when worn, are not even noticeable. If the shank to shape. Then pickle, polish, and clean to complete pierced square and rectangular holes must be put back in the the repair. side/s, it can be done by drilling and squaring with needle Before starting any ring repair, it is important to files. This should about double the cost of the repair and check the size of the ring and write it down so that when should be understood by the customer when taking the repair. finishing the job, you can be certain that the ring is still the In many solitaire engagement rings, the wear occurs only on correct size. Even when an alteration in size is to be made, the bottom of the head where it is wider than the shank. this can come in handy in determining how much metal to Therefore, this repair requires only a small plate which is add or take out for enlarging or reducing the size. When installed in exactly the same manner as the longer curved plate. changing heads, the finger size may be changed and if so, will By using small needle files, it can be shaped to the original require sizing to complete the repair. form. You may have the impression from this and previous When the ring head and settings are in good condi­ articles that these repairs require a large investment in tools tion but the shank is worn thin, it can be replaced by re­ and materials. This is not necessarily so. Many repairs can be shanking with either a full or half shank. Half shank means made with tools that you already have as a watchmaker and exactly the bottom half of the shank while a full shank extends much of the gold stock you will use can be obtained from the from the head or end of side stone settings completely around old gold scrap which most stores accumulate to send to a to the same joint on the other side of the head. Full shanks refiner for cash. When practicing new techniques, the old on solitaires and rings with side stones are usually fit with a rings found in this source will provide the practice rings and butt joint, except for some prong heads which use a vertical metal for sizing and all you will have to provide is solder. "v" joint. Replacing a full shank is done in exactly the same When these practice rings are put back in the old gold, you manner as replacing the head, only it is done without removing have lost nothing but the difference in the scrap price and the stone providing that the stone will take heat. See Figure 1. purchase price of the solder. Experiment and practice will This job requires the pre-cleaning and borax and alcohol result in proficiency, and when practice jobs are successful, burn off with slow cooling. Half shanks can be installed by they then can be applied to customer repair which will com­ cutting the old shank off with side cutting pliers, leaving the pensate you well for your time. ends with a wedge shaped point which can easily be filed to In the next article, we will discuss soldering rings the right angle for the "v" joint. See Figure 1-C. Straighten together to reduce wear, as well as stones that either will or the removed shank and measure to obtain the correct length will not take heat and how to protect enameling while making of gold stock for the new half shank. Again prepare the ring repairs. ucrn

CLOCK CHATTER (Continued from page 43) was evidently located that had a tooth thickness compatible with the hour wheel pinion spaces. It was then cut into four pieces in order to provide the proper number of teeth as shown in Figure 8. The four pieces were then soldered to a tin disk shown in Figure 9. A pipe was added and-presto!-a new calendar wheel. One more thing was needed on the wheel and that was the lifting finger to operate the calendar date ring. A piece of Figure 6 Figure 7

66 Horological Times/April 1980 wire clothes hanger was bent around the pipe and soldered as shown in Figure 8. You might also notice that no expense was spared as far as the use of solder was concerned. The final piece needed was the stud for the calendar wheel, and as the new wheel would not operate the calendar ring in the position dictated by the stud hole in the plate, it was merely moved over and the cannon bridge screw called upon to do double duty as shown in Figure 10. Again that useful piece of material, a wire clothes hanger, was used to create the stud shown in Figure 11.

There can be no question that Figure 8 Figure 9 the solutions to the problems are in­ genious, but when this clock is repre­ sented as being original, it amounts to fraud. When the person doing this kind of work represents himself as a clockmaker, that is also fraud. It was suggested that the owners take action against the sellers and get their money back, but this was decided against and I was given the job of restoring as much of the clock to good clockmaking practice as possible. This included a proper wheel, stud, stopping unused holes, and making dial posts to fit the movement. It was an expensive job, and the owner still had an easily recognized marriage Figure 10 of case, dial, and movement. 'ULil3 Figure 11 We Salute These Museum Donors (Listed in Alphabetical Order)

Continued from December, 1979, page 32 mounted in plastic case: Ladies' stem wind folding pendulum, brass bob, ca. 1810. Chart No. 799 and No. 927; Mens' stem wind, No. 960; drive clock used at Cape Kennedy, made in self-winding, bb osc. wgt. No. 964; self-winding, Switzerland, Societe lndustrielle de SONCE cal., bb osc. wgt., No. 967;self-winding, No. 972. BOZ, S A for G. E. Co. Watch by Ball Watch JENSSEN, JR., S.T.; WASHINGTON, DC: Swiss jeweling lathe used in jeweling first Co., Cleveland, OH, 12s, 17:1, g.f. cartouche­ Given in Memory of Sigvald T. Jenssen, Sr., Elgin watches, ca. 1865~6. Seven large black shaped case, ca. 1926-27. Model of Hamilton items made by him: Jewel plate, bal. staff and white photos of tools, material, movement, 992B R.R. watch made by Robert Laswell, and bal. wheel for his HIA exam No. 81; etc., Elgin Watch Co., mounted under thick Opopha, FL, 1966. Hamilton "500" and regulator suspension block; main wheel, re­ glass. "505" electric movts., plastic display case. taining power, cable; handmade hands in glass Swiss electric watch movements: ESA 9162, frame; and bronze medal HIA 2nd prize, LEWIS, GEORGE; SEATTLE, WA: Hamilton tuning fork, ESA 9183 and ESA 9181, quartz Superior Workmanship, Class 5, 1933. Fac­ Chronometer, Model 22, 21J, movt., mhgy step motor. Rounding-up tool, brass, Swiss, tory preassembling marking tool, ca. 1930. case; Hamilton Chronometer, movt. No. 3353, on wood box with drawer, 15 arbors, 7 cutters. Hairspring vibrating tool. Counter borer with mhgy. case. Deck clock, M. Low Inc., NY, Hardinge Bros. uprighting tool for setting up Universal adjustments. Swiss, Zenith "Signal steel plates, movt. No. 0217666, mhgy. case. escapements in full plate watches, ca. 1900. Corps," 24 hour dial, wrist watch, silveroid Hub balance holder, brass hubs in 10 sizes, case. spring holding tool, wood block for hubs, LUTH, NORMAN D.; CUDAHY, CA: Framed A. F. Robbins Co., Waltham. Bezel jeweling photo UHAA Natl. Officers, Executive Board JESTER, MR . & MRS. CL YOE A.; tool in original box. Factory bench precision Members, Technical Board, 1935-36. KERNERSVILLE, NC: Miniature Gothic gauge (.001 in., 1 Div.=.0002 in.), steel and Steeple Clock, Gilvert Clock Co., ca. 1875. wood case. Plastic crystal cutter. Waltham McKNIGHT; FT. MYERS, FL: Round top Alarm clock, cast iron case, Western Clock m/spring gauge. shelf clock, Gilbert Clock Co., ca. 1875. 8-day, Mfg. Co., La Salle, IL, ca. 1910. time, strike and alarm, rosewood case. Small LILLEY, WILLIAM E.; CINCINNATI, OH : German alarm clock, metal case, button feet, KERCKHOFF, W.; AVON PARK, FL: Swing Pierce sliding weight wind watch, Swiss, 17J, ca. 1900. Bow pivot milling tool with watch tool, attachment for mandrel or lathe to parashock movt., ss case. WatchMaster, Type pendant millers. Clock depthing tool, bronze, mill-cut recesses in objects held in face plate, G-11, American Time Products, Inc., serial mint condition. ca. 1865. Shellac "chuck" facing lathe (used No. 18824. for machining or turning flat, amorphous MARGOLIS, AL; MELBOURNE, FL: Hand objects) ca. 1870. LIP, SA; BESANCON, FRANCE: Small French turns, bow activated, ca. 1850; hand turns, electronic movement only. (1972) incomplete, ca. 1870. 5 tools, ca. 1900: small LEVERENZ, DONALD W.; BOCA RATON, wheel depthing tool for watches, brass; m/spg FL: First model electric watch, Elgin Watch LITTLE, JOSEPH S.; DAYTONA BEACH, winder, brass and steel; wheel stretcher, hand Co., "Lord Elgin," movt. No. 725, g.f. case FL: French Mor bier clock, hour strike, 5 min. centers, brass; truing lathe, hand, geared, brass; end bracelet, rare . Six Elgin watch movements, repeater, brass repousee headpiece, flat wire screw remover. (To Be Continued)

April 1980/Horological Times 67 More New Products and News 1n the Trade

CHANGE IN SWIGART second to help you relax a bit and beauty features a wide short-time measuring devices, in­ MATERIAL DEPARTMENT between or after meetings. variety of nature themes like cluding electronic instruments. Harry Best, Manager of the The first is a World horticulture, agriculture, arbor­ The company has led in the art Material Department at The E.J. Trade Center Club for the pur­ iculture, medicinal plants and of time measurement since 1860. Swigart Co. in Cincinnati, went pose of facilitating international others. A 100,000 sq.m. "Water into semi-retirement January 1, transactions. Located right on the and Landscape" area, designed for 1980. Harry started with the firm premises at the European Fair­ relaxation, features footpaths, rest NEW GEM INSTRUMENTS in 1926 as messenger boy, learned on the third floor of the main zones, a brook (stocked with BROCHURE the watch material business th or­ building (Hall 49)-you'll find trout), springs and fountains. Gem Instruments Corporation, oughly during the next 20 years, the recently opened World Trade At its center is a huge lake with wholly owned subsidiary of the and was promoted to manager Center Club of Switzerland, Basie, islands accessible by foot bridges. Gemological Institute of America, in January, 1946 to head the an extension of the world or­ The exhibition can be offers a wide selection of pro­ department. ganization with headquarters in toured by monorail and a 76 m. fessional jewelers' instruments de­ the New York buildings of the high panoramic tower provides veloped expressly to merchan­ same name. Over 100 World a spectacular view of the show. dise, examine, and grade gems. Trade Centers have been opened You have a choice of nine res­ These instruments help jewelers in some 40 countries around the taurants and there's even a add a profitable new dimension world. supervised play area for children. to their business by professionally This facility will pro­ In short, Grun 80 is the perfect demonstrating diamond and col­ vide its members with various way to relax after a busy day ored stone value to customers. services including: and of course it's an ideal place A new, 20-page, fully - data on the nature and struc­ to bring your family while you're illustrated brochure featuring ture of foreign markets at the Fair. these professional jewelers' instru­ - promotional assistance through The new World Trade ments is now available. Ken a network of contacts Center Club and Grun 80-two Moore, GEM Vice-President, notes (Left to right) Elmer Fibbe, - aid in solving all sorts of ad­ more good reasons to visit the the GEM Instruments Catalog Harry Best, and Jimmy Luzietti features the most complete line of E.J. Swigart Company ministrative, customs, tax, and 1980 European Watch, Clock and financial problems Jewelry Fair. of professional jewelers' instru­ - access to public and semi­ ments available from a single Harry is pictured above source. between his two capable assis­ public bodies and authorities and to international commercial tants of the past 20 years-Elmer HEUER AND THE WORLD law and jurisprudence. Fibbe (left) and Jimmy Luzietti OF SPORTS In Basie, the Center can (right). For the past eight years, an provide climate-controlled pre­ Jim Luzietti started fit­ important part of the New York mises for business meetings and ting crystals at Swigart in 1938, Marathon has been Heuer timing entertainment and features a bar worked in the tool and supply equipment. Here, Alan Steinfeld, and a restaurant. It is open to departments before entering ser­ Coordinator for the New York Swiss and foreign W.T.C. Club vice in World War 11 as an Italian Road Runners Club, makes a Interpreter. Jim is following Harry members. Even if you aren't as Material Department Manager, a WTCC member, as a business and does an excellent job in­ person domiciled outside Swit­ terpreting watch material orders. zerland, you can make special Other personnel in the arrangements entitling you to use department are Evelyn Edgell, the Center's facilities. Full in­ Jan Martin, Virgil Mell, Kay formation is available at the The brochure describes Myers, and Jerry Woebkenberg. Center itself. in detail all the instruments The second surprise a­ offered and lists specifications. waiting you is Grun 80, an last-minute inspection of Heuer's This includes information and oasis of peace and quiet after Centigraph 305 as runners come photos on the Custom and the hustle and bustle of the up to the finish line. Deluxe Mark V Gemolites, the Fair. Grun 80 (Green '80) is The Centigraph 305, GEM Mini-lab, Diamond lite, Pro­ FLASH-1980 EUROPEAN short for the second annual which measures time up to 9 hours, portionScope, GEM Spectroscope WATCH, CLOCK AND Swiss flower and landscaping 59 minutes, 59.999 seconds with Unit, and Diamond Grader. A JEWELRY FAIR show. Cer1tered on man's rela­ an accuracy of 1/100 of a second, new Mettler Diamond Balance, If you're planning to visit Basie tions with nature, it opens in was also part of Heuer's timing which combines practical features for the 8th annual European Basie for a period of six months equipment used at the 1980 and technical possibilities through Fair, April 19 to 28, 1980, on April 12-just a few days Olympic Winter Games in Lake advanced electronics, is presented you'll find two further pleasant before the European Watch, Clock Placid. in the brochure. In addition, surprises waiting for you there. and Jewelry Fair itself. Heuer is the world's illustrations of various types of The first is designed to facili­ Spread over 460,000 largest manufacturer of quality installations of the DiamondLux tate commercial transactions; the sq.m., this oasis of peace, quiet stopwatches, chronographs, and are included.

68 Horological Times/April 1980 GEM instruments are Its sole function is to issue an consultant to leading corporations prototype approval. DEM prices precision engineered and manu­ examination certificate; a guar­ and gem trading institutions for are available on request. factured to the highest quality antee of a gem's identity and his advice and counsel. For technical informa­ specifications. Each instrument is grade based on an internationally­ tion and pricing contact Bill thoroughly tested before it is ever accepted rating system covering Bottari, (201) 348-7276. made available to the trade. size, proportion, weight, clarity, "MELODY GENERATOR GEM instruments are not avail­ color, and impurities. ON A CHIP" ANNOUl\ICED able from any other source. To provide unques­ BY PANASONIC With proper care, the tioned proof of a gem's identity, A CMOS-LSI "chip" that can be NEW LIGNAL WATCH instruments will provide a life­ IGI seals each gem in a tough mask-programmed to generate a WITH BIRMANY time of accuracy and trouble­ plastic with a micro-film copy number of melodies and/or alarm TEAK CASE free performance. Mr. Moore of the certificate clearly shown. audio outputs is now available cautioned , however, that instru­ Any substitution of the gem and from the Electronic Components ments should be unplugged before its cerfiticate would require an Division of Panasonic Company. changing lamp bulbs or attempting obvious breaking of the seal. service. With many GEM instru­ Developed in Antwerp, ments, a new, expanded, de­ certification has flourished in tailed instruction pamphlet is recent years due to the increased included which explains operation, recognition of the need for a application, care, cleaning, and standardized analysis to determine maintenance of the instrument. the worth of a precious gem, Illustrations and easily under­ especially for insurance and in­ I I ' stood instructions help jewelers vestment purposes. A difference •1: get maximum benefit from their of even one grade can mean many GEM instrument. thousands of dollars on just Except where otherwise a single carat based on today's noted in the brochure, Gem current market prices. Instruments ships all orders pre­ Perlman stated, "We This new high fashion watch paid, with prices F.O.B. des­ believe we can duplicate IG l's Designated as "MN6221," the from lignal features a case made tination in the Continental U.S. success in Antwerp here in the device consists of melody storage of polished Birmany Teak, special­ GEM offers a new ser­ United States very quickly. We'll ROM ,dual programmable counters ly treated for durability. The vice to make it easier and faster offer many significant advantages for tone generation, tempo gener­ movement is a Swiss 25 jewel for jewelers to order instruments. including our precise, consistent, ator, note time setting, input lncabloc, automatic with calendar. They may call toll-free from any scientific grading system, com­ control circuits, audio output The dial and bracelet are available state except California to place petitive prices and speed of circuit, and oscillator. It can be in red, black, white, or blue an order for GEM instruments. service; the latter being par­ used to produce desired melodies denim. The number is (800) 421-8161. ticularly important to the major in such devices as clocks, chimes, For more information wholesalers who must turn over electronic music boxes, tele­ and to secure a copy of the The many advatages of trade quickly, especially in view phones, various toys and games, wood, aside from its natural new Gem Instruments Brochure, of today's high interest rates. and others. A typical chip can be write: Gem lnstrumen.ts Corpor­ beauty, include lightness and programmed to contain up to comfort on the wrist, a great ation, P.O. Box 2147, Santa 'We am starting op­ seven different melodies. A com­ Monica, CA 90406. erations with approximately 15 capacity for shock absorption, plete melody-producing circuit and low conductivity of heat, people, at least seven of whom built around the MN6221 will will be professionally certified which eliminates condensation require a few external resistors under the crystal. Other watches INTERNATIONAL gemologists." Perlman continued, and capacitors and a suitable in this exclusive new line offer GEMOLOGICAL "The majority of our business speaker. cases made of precious woods INSTITUTE OPENS U.S. will come from the trade, both Operating on only such as Ebony of Macassar, OPERATIONS wholesale and retail, but we 1.5-volt power supply, the will also service the general Nordic Walnut, and "Macore" The International Gemological MN6221 comes in an 18-pin mahogany, and a variety of Institute (I GI), one of the most public. Being the only labora­ plastic DIP (dual-in-line package). tory on the street level should Swiss jewel lever movements in successful gemological laboratories Its user-oriented capabilities in­ either automatic or hand winding in Antwerp, Belgium, began U.S. make us especially convenient. clude two chords, four octaves, In addition, we will grade and models. Suggested retail price is operations in New York City 28 kinds of tempos, 128 musical $180. in January of 1980. This annouce­ certify all varieties of gems in notes, and easy testing. Since virtually all sizes, especially dia­ ment was marl~ by Robert Perlman the chip is mask-programmable For more information, monds. who is Presid1 t of IGI. by the user, an unlimited variety contact Bernadette Klay, Lignal IGI is an indepen­ Robert Perlman, 31, is of melodies can be chosen. Watch, 3210 Potter St., Eugene, dent laboratory expert in the a recognized gem expert who Deliveries of MN6221 Oregon, 97405. Telephone: (503) analysis and certification of gems. has been called upon as a special chips are three months after 345-8341.

April 1980/Horologi.ca/ Times 69 Class-if ied Ads

Regulations and Rates Ads are payable in advance $.35 per word, $.45 per word in bold type. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confiden­ tial ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance.

Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211, (513) 661-3838

WHEELS, Pinions, Barrels or whatever, re­ STERLING FLATWARE STOCKS-new or Tradesman . paired or made new. Repivot arbors. Parts used needed. Call us before you sell for scrap. made to order. Send sample for free estimates. Also wanted: silver, diamonds, gold scrap, On all watch parts, inquire first. Ken Leeseberg, coins and coin collections. Call or write: Ken-Way Inc. 311 Chestnut St. Addison, Mr. Neff, HT, WFN Enterprises, 2260 North­ A Oock House-Hawaii. LCD-LED-Analog Illinois 60101. lake Parkway, Suite 307, Tucker, GA 30084, Specialist. Trained by Zantech, Inc., New Ph. 404-938-0744. Jersey. Clock repivoting, retoothing, escape­ ment work. Trade prices-free estimates-(808) 487-8825, 98-751 Kuanao Pl., Pearl City, HI 96782. IMMEDIATE CASH PAID for Gold, Silver, WATCH-REPAIR FOR THE TRADE.QUARTZ Platinum, any form! Jewelry scrap, filings, (LED, LCD, STEP MOTOR), ACCUTRON, gold filled, sterling! Immediate top dollar AND MECHANICAL. Careful work & thorough­ cash offer return mail! Satisfaction guaranteed. going repairs plus ultrasonic cleaning, and Ship insured/registered mail to: American electronic diagnosis. The Watch Repair Shop. Metals Co., St. Andrews Branch, P.O. Box CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, C.K. Goshman. 1219 Mound St., Madison, 30009H, Charleston, SC 29407. repivoting, retoothing, escapement work. J. C. WI 53715. 1-608-255-3247. Van Dyke, CMW, CMC, CMBHI, 1039 Rt. 163, Oakdale, CT 06370.

Pearl and Bead Restringing. All types. Fast ser­ vice. Jean A. Gruenig, P.O. Box 12007, Colum­ bus, Ohio 43212. Help Wanted DON'f TURN DOWN ANY MORE OF THOSE OCCASIONAL LED, LCD, OR STEP-MOTOR WATCH REPAIRS. Even if you don't want to open another account, just send those re­ CLOCKMAKER or first-class clock repairman. pairs to us along with your MASTERCHARGE ELECTRONIC WATCH REPAIR SPECIAL­ Must know how to bush and pivot. All kinds or VISA number (plus expiration date) and IST. Digital (LED & LCD) and Analog Tuxedo or clockwork available for repair in well­ we'll do the rest. THE WATCH REPAIR SHOP, Electric-Quartz Watch Repair Div. P.O. Box established and respected clockshop. Top C.K. Goshman, 1219 Mound St., Madison, 561, Tuxedo, NY 10987 (914) 351-2282. prices. Can work percentage, or otherwise. WI 53715. 1-608-255-3247. Write resume, or call Sean (Pat) Monk, The Time Shop, 161 Townsend, Birmingham, MI 48011. 313-646-7377.

Clock repair material and tools. Manufacture of clock springs, dials, escape wheels, verge kits, weights, all types of brass and steel stock and PULSAR WATCH REPAIRS. Complete repairs WATCHMAKERS: We are looking for good custom made parts. Catalog postpaid $2.00; on all L.E.D. PULSARS except calculators. men to earn 20,000+ per year in our pro­ Tani Engineering, Box 338, Atwater, Ohio gressive trade shop. Benefits include life in­ Prompt Service. Leo G. Kozlowski, 55 E. 44201. Washington Street. Chicago, IL 60602, 312- surance, paid vacations, and health and acci­ 236-8052. dent insurance. Call Mr. J. Pollak at 1-216- 241-4413 or send resume to Pollak W.S., Inc., 2132 E. 9th St., Cleveland, OH 44115. Wanted To Buy

Experienced, Aggressive Watch material Person, TOP DOLLAR SPOT CASH PAID for HIGH for leading Material House, in Baltimore­ DIGITAL WATCH REPAIRS. LEDs, LCDs, GRADE American and European pocket Washington D.C. area. Capable of taking full Chronos, Alarms, Calculators, and Multifunc­ watches. Single pieces or collections. Especial­ charge of all phases of inventory control and tions. All makes including Japanese and Swiss. ly need 23, 24 (or more) jewel RRs, repeaters, expanding mail order dept. Good position with Prompt Guaranteed Service by Electronic solid golds. Cases and dials wanted also. future, to qualified person. Send resume to Timepiece Specialists. Write or call for informa­ Richard Vye (NAWCC). 2603 Centinela. Royal Tschantre Inc., 8818 Orchard Tree tion, pi:icelist, and references. Santa Monica, CA 90405, (213) 450-4243. Lane, Towson, MD 21204 (301-821-0001)

70 Horological Times/April 1980 Established Clock & Watch store. Located ESEMBL-0-GRAF LIBRARY in 28 volumes, For Sale in excellent shopping center. A.I. watch & Pittsburgh, 1955. Chronograph repairing is clock repairs. Excellent opportunity for youn­ made easy by Step-by-Step procedure. Each ger individual to expand. Service repair center small step of removing and replacing each part U. S. HEADQUARTERS f'OR ALL SCHATZ for all grandfather clock Co's. Sunny Central and making adjustments is clearly illustrated. PARTS. PARTS FOR THE NEW 400 DAY Florida. Owner retiring. Evenings 904-694- No concentrated study is necessary. Write EOG, ELECTRONICS. ALSO FOR KUNDO ELEC­ 5289. P.O Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. TRONIC. GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE, 7760 f' AY AVENUE, LA JOLLA, CA 92037.

Clock & watch repair business in Dalton, GA. For Sale-Timing Machines, Watchmaster Tim­ EVEREADY WATCH BATTERIES. Lowest 2 B.R. all remodeled stone home, shop attached but separate, wood furnace. Could be excellent ers Vibrograf Timers. Factory rebuilt. All prices guaranteed. No minimum order. No machines guaranteed. Terms available. Also freight charge. 2% cash discount. Write for if pushed. S.A.S.E. for full information or after 6 p.m. 1-404-277-1731. W.R. Rhan available Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Machines. free price schedule and cross reference guide. Write Vibrograf sales representative Robert N.B. Sales Co., 32250 Red Clover Road, Swensgard, 2630-A Jett Hill Road, New Rich­ Farmington Hills, MI 48018 (313) 553-0947. mond Ohio 45157. Or phone (513) 553-2113. Territory: Southern Indiana, Kentucky, Michi­ gan, Ohio, Tennessee, and West Virginia. 'A' QUALITY SWISS SPRING BARS, WRITE American Pocket Watches, movements, cases, FOR FREE SAMPLES, P.O. BOX 774, GREEN­ material, and tools for sale. Write for list. VILLE, MS 38701. Want to buy watchmakers tools, American pocket watches, related items. Dashto Horo­ logical Services, 5349 Basilica Circle, Va. Beach, Miscellaneous VA 23464. 804-420-2631. Metal Cutting Lathes, Bench Mills, Drillpresses, Unimats, Maximats, Catalog L, $1.00. Wood­ Digital Watch Service Training. Zantech, Inc. turning Machinery, Lathes, Planers, Band­ offers training and instruments for servicing all Boley WW Pattern lathe with Boley slide rest saws, Combination machines. Catalog W, $1.00. types of digital watches. Course includes and indexing attachment. Also t-rest, tail­ Precision Tools, Inch or Metric, Aluminum, diagnosis of watch malfunctions and repair stock, stand, motor, foot rheostat, some collets, Brass, Steel, all shapes. Miniature Screws, Taps, methods, including techniques in wire bond centers and shellac chucks. $1,650. J.C. Hoover, Drills, Saws, Collets. Catalog T, $1.00. Camp­ repairs using silver epoxy. Louis A. Zanoni, 1934 S. Aldrich No. 203, Minneapolis, MN bell Tools, 1424 Barclay, Springfield, OH Zantech, Inc., 13 Greentree Rd., Trenton, 55403. 45505. NJ 08619 (609) 586-5088.

Someone You Know The Book You've Been Waiting For, Is Missing Out THE BEST OF NEW MEMBER: J.E. COLEMAN: CLOCKMAKER City/State ______More than twenty-eight years of writing have been skillfully compiled into this first-ever book published of Jess Coleman's original work. This book is designed to aid those who are interested in solving the everyday problems confronted in School (if Student) ______practical clock repairing. This attractive hardbound, 544 page encyclopedia of horological information SUBMITTED BY: is published by the American Watchmakers Institute Press. The price is $30.00 postpaid. Since the passing of Jess Coleman, many have felt the void created AWi No. ______by not being able to write or call Coleman for help. The unique 9 Payment enclosed for: 1 yr. regular membership $30.00 page index and cross reference 1 yr. student membership $10.00 prepared by Orville R. Hagans, once again makes it possible to consult with Coleman Horological Times included in membership on almost any question Mail to: American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211 relating to horology. Send $30.00 payable to AWi Press, addressed to The Best Of Coleman, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Dates to Remember Advertisers' Index

APRIL AWi ...... 22, 32, 52, 53 8-15-United Jewelry Show; Biltmore Plaza 16-18-EXPOSA- 12th International Fair for AMERICAN PER FIT CORP. • ...... 48 Hotel; Providence, RI Watches, Costume Jewellery, and Jewel­ lery; Salzburg Exhibition Center; Salz­ 9-13-Watch Materials & Jewelry Distribu­ burg, Austria. Contact the Austrian B.B. CRYSTAL CO ...... 48 tors Association Convention; Breakers trade delegate to the US. J. BOREL GROUP ...... 25 Hotel; Palm Beach, FL BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL . . . . . 23 18-19-North Carolina-Virginia Retail Jewelers 10-11-First Annual Dallas Craft Fair; Market Association Annual Convention; Grove JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL Hall; Dallas Market Center; Dallas, TX Park Inn; Asheville, NC OF WATCHMAKING ...... 22

10-May10-AGS Gemstone Exhibit; Museum 18-20-71st Annual Meeting, New York State CAS-KER CO ..... • Inside Front Cover, 41 of Natural History; University of Utah; Retail Jewelers Association and the CITIZEN WATCH CO ...... 17 Salt Lake City, UT Consolidated Retail Jewelers Association of New York; Fallsview Resort-Hotel; 12-15-Southeastern Variety Merchandise Show; Ellenville, NY C. DVORKIN AND CO .. 49 Georgia World Congress Center; Atlanta, GA 24-27-Canadian Jewelers Association Conven­ EBAUCHES, S.A . . . 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 tion/Conference; The Algonquin Hotel; ESSLINGER & CO . .3 , 57 13-lowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Associa­ St. Andrews By The Sea, New Bruns­ t ion; Spring Technical Seminar; A irport wick Inn; Des Moines, IA GEM CITY COLLEGE ...... 31 25-30-American Jewelry Distributors Associa· GERMANOW-SIMON ...... 46 13-16-First California Jewelry, Stationery, tion Annual Convention; Colorado THE GOULD CO ...... 21 and Accessories Show; Ca lifornia Mart; Springs, CO Los Angeles, CA GREAT AMERICAN TIME CO. INC. . . 16 30-June 1-Third Towson University Antiques 13-17-lsrael Jewelry Fair; Tel Aviv Hilton Fair; Towson Center; Towson, MD B. JADOW & SONS I NC ...... 20 Hotel; Tel Aviv, Israel JEWELMONT CORP .. .. Outside Back Cover 14-23-lnternational Trade Fair; Fairgrounds; Milan, Italy KANSAS CITY SCHOOL JUNE OF WATCHMAKING . . . 31 18-20-Wisconsin Licensed Watchmakers Asso­ KIENZLE ...... 1-2-2nd Annual Convention of the Watch­ .. 47 ciation; Annual Convention; Fox Hills makers Association of Pennsylvania; KILB&CO ...... • 16 Resort; Mishicot, WI Treadway Motel Inn ; Lancaster, PA KILGORE COLLEGE . . 23 18-22-American Gem Society; Annual Con­ 1-4-Mid-Year Gift Show (formerly Mid-Year clave; Fairmont Hotel; Dallas, TX S LAROSE, INC .. ..•... . • 35 China and Glass Show); Atlantic City, NJ 19-28-European Watch, Clock, & Jewelry MARSHALL-SWARTCHILD CO . . . 36, 37 Fair; Basil, Switzerland 8-11-Second Eastern Gourmet Show; New MAXELL CORP. OF AMERICA . .. 27 York Coliseum ; New York, NY 22-24-Writing Instrument Manufacturers As­ MEDIA DIGITAL CORP .. . . 53 sociation Write Show; New York Statler MIDO BOREL. . . 39 8-13-China, Glass, & Giftwares New York Hotel; New York, NY Showrooms Show; New York, NY NEST CO ...... 25-27-Louisiana Retail Jewelers Association .. • . 40 14-21-Federation of Manufacturing Jewelers Convention; Holiday Inn North ; Lafay­ Exhibition; South Pacific Hotel; Down­ ette, LA PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE .. . . . 30 town Auckland, New Zealand 25-28-South Carolina Retail Jewelers As­ PORTESCAP U.S . . .. . 5 sociation Annual Convention; St. John's 21-23-lnternational Jewelry Trade Fair; Las PRO-CRAFT ...... 33 Inn; Myrtle Beach, SC Vegas Convention Center; Las Vegas, NV 26-28-Alabama Retail Jewelers Association SEIKO TIME CORP . . Inside Back Cover STANDARD UNBREAKABLE Annual Convention; Plaza Hotel ; Bir­ 22-25-Gift, Jewelry, & Housewares Show; WATCH CRYSTAL CO. INC . . 41 mingham, AL Merchandise Mart; Charlotte, NC STANLEY DONAHUE CO. 27-Watchmakers Association of Ohio;Quarterly 24-26-AWI REC Meeting; AMFAC, Airport OF HOUSTON, INC ...... 14 Meeting; Marriott Inn; Columbus, OH Marina; Burlingame, CA SWEST INC ...... 52 E. & J. SWIGART CO . . . Outside Back Cover 24-29-Northeast Craft Fair (Rhinebeck); Dutchess County Fairgrounds; Rhine­ MAY beck, NY TENNESSEE JEWELERS SUPPLY INC ..• 57 lWI N CITY WATCH SUPPLY CO . . . • . 31 1-4-Scandanavian Gold & Silver Days; Bella 27-AWI Affiliate Chapter Meeting; Dunfey Center; Copenhagen, Denmark Hotel; San Mateo, CA I. WI DESS & SONS . . . . 30 4-6-Hawaii Gift Show; Blaisdell Center; 28-29-AWI Annual Board Meeting; Dunfey Honolulu, Hawaii Hotel; San Mateo, CA ZANTECH INC ...... 15

72 Horological Times/April 1980

r.. .1 (_)

,<_ _J ~) ...

I~ :;;; 1I.d ~~ __; w ~· ~ j -l,_ _ <';fl CJ ·~J. i..· · ·~ .:::: a: _;:)

w I­ ::> I- I­ V)z

Call Toll Free Nationwide 1 -800-328-0614 Minnesota 800-742-0508

••• the E. & J. Swigart Company hos, since its founding in 1879, been one of the largest of pure material houses in the continental United States, offering full lines of Swiss and American watch materials and batteries, including genuine materials from such factories as Seiko, Citizens, Bulova, Girard Perregaux, Omega, Longines, Wyler, Zodiac, Rolex, Hamilton, Elgin and other popular brands. We also carry full lines of tools and supplies for the jeweler and watchmaker, as well as regular and jewelry findings, clock materials, watch glass, bands and straps, optical goods, packaging supplies, tags, job envelopes, and bags, imprinted on our own presses. -....., The majority of our sixty-six employees hove been with us for periods of twenty years or more, giving us an expertise which is unique in a complex and highly technical business. We invite you to try our stocks and service.

Catalogue Available on Request THEE. & J. SWIGART COMPANY 34 West 6th Street Cincinnati, Ohio 45202 (513) 721-1427