MARCH/2013

COVER STORY 01 26 Young Minds That 16 Feature 10 education for special Dare Self-Employ, Deconstructing the needs in bhutan Can Change Chibdrel & Marchang Their World Ceremonies

32 A Trip to Remember 38 Feature PHOTO ESSAY Love On the Sly? A 36 Fiction Brief Enquiry into Disgrace the Culture of Night 20 Still Devotion Hunting 40 The media must be “Free” 31 Happenings Bhutan gets its 44 Commentary first Law Journal INTERVIEW China takes over its Pakistani pearl

49 What’s your quirk? 64 art page Beautician/Actress Dechen Phurba, Featuring Asha Kama popularly known as Dechen Selden

54 Know your food Bhutanese Red Rice MOST DISCUSSED 56 Restaurant Review The Oriental 66 tÊtE Á tÊtE

58 Movie Review With Lama Shenphen Zangpo Lue Dang Sem

60 Book Review Beyond the Silk E-reader Vs Book Route

62 Living with Little

69 Thumbs Up & Down

The Raven March, 2013 1 letters to the editor

Sir/Madam,

I have been informed that The Raven is about the The Raven is a wonderful read because it contains some only magazine that focuses on the real issues that in-depth, well researched and well written articles covering Bhutan faces. I’d be interested to subscribe to the various issues. magazine if it delivers what it promises. Would you be able to send me an electronic sample? However, the issues are not available in Trashigang, and Samdrupjonkhar. I would appreciate if you could broaden Kind regards, your reach in order to gain further ground. Karin Meichtry (Ms.) Pema Wangda, Mongar. Email: [email protected]

My name is Kitso Wangdi, a Bhutanese student studying at Hampshire College in Amherst, MA. I have heard great reviews from most CAN & SHOULD BHUTAN Bhutanese [about The Raven] and I am dying BE FOOD-SUFFICIENT? BEING PRESENT IN TO FLY HIGH, LIVING WITH to get my hands on the magazine. A Huge THE MOMENT STAY GROUNDED ADDICTION p.16 Congrats on both the first and second [magazine] p.10 p.60 publications! Your Monthly I am writing to you to inquire about the Guardian NU 100 FEBRUARY 2013 possibility of subscribing. I tried looking online ISSUE 4 For enquiries, please contact Karjung Motors please enquiries, Karjung contact For VOLUME 1 www.ravenmag.com but it seems you can only acquire it from home +975-333333, EMAIL: [email protected] PHN: (Thimphu). Is there a way of subscribing to it online or is there any other way?

I would be most grateful if you could kindly give me [some] information on it. Naame Saame Kadinche! Kitso Wangdi PLATFORM TO THE FUTURE I am a regular reader of The Raven, and I must *Terrian Response on 4WD on Response *Terrian *Cruise Control (HDC) Control Descent *Hill (DSC) Control *Dynamic Stability (RSC) Control *Roll Stability ABS *All Terrain (EBA) Assist Brake *Emergency System Start/Stop *Intelligent (EBD) Distribution *Electric Brake-Force OR ROAD TO NOWHERE? say that the magazine is getting better with each issue. I hope it will sustain and establish a clearer identity for itself.

Having said that, I would like to add that most of the articles are Thimphu-centric. If issues from rural areas can be given more importance, it would bolster the magazine even further.

Best wishes for the team. FREELANDER 2 DURING BEFORE, THE CALM AND AFTER THE STORM. Namgay, Thimphu. Email: [email protected]

Letters to the Editor or to The Raven will be edited for clarity and space and can be published, unless specifically asked not to. letter from the editor

KUZUZANGPO!

efore we even know it, the elections will soon be upon us. But aside from DPT, the other parties have barely had time to put together their team, leave alone introduce them to Bus. Indeed there has been very little time for the people to be familiarized with the candidates, and the media has hardly had time to grill them about the issues. This makes one realize that the time given for campaigns and familiarization is too short, which is not good if we truly want good and competent people in office. There are many things flawed about the whole process; like requirements that a civil serv- ant has to resign in order to join politics, necessity of a college degree, and the time span for campaigning. Although it is too late to hope for any change to occur in the process this time, we hope to cover some of these issues as we gear up towards the big day so that it will be something to think about in the future. Post One important issue for whichever party wins this time is that of their support for a free and Letters to the Editor ‘The Raven’ independent media. Achyut Bhandhari, a former government official, has raised this concern P.O.Box:1047, in his column by highlighting the grave situation the media houses in Bhutan, including The Thimphu, Bhutan Raven, faces today. If the intent for the government is to build strong democratic institutions, it has to realize and understand that a fair media policy regarding advertising and subsidies has to be seriously considered. This is because the media – even though it is not perfect – is one area where private citizens do the work of strengthening the institutions of a free press and free speech, and if the government truly believes in that principle, whether it agrees or Mail [email protected] disagrees with what is reported, it will find ways to support it. We have a great collection of articles this month covering a range of issues – youth -unemploy- ment, an interview with one of Thimphu’s much admired social workers, events, and reviews. But our cover story on Special Education takes us to another area that has languished on the Facebook facebook.com/ back burner for a long time. It is good to know that the Education Ministry has taken im- theravenmagazine mense initiatives despite a lack of resources to initiate this program. It has a long way to go and might even be helped by wealthy private individuals in Bhutan who can take up causes and support these programs. Volunteerism and Philanthropy are picking up in our society, Twitter twitter.com/ but as Aum Chime P.Wangdi from Tarayana Foundation pointed out recently in her interview bhutanraven with BBS, we need more people to give to “people causes” rather than just to the gods. There was a great outpouring of contributions for the Wangdiphodrang Dzong when it burnt down. If only that kind of support could also be rallied for a “people cause” – disadvantaged people’s write to us cause – and if our people would be as generous, imagine how much could be done to better human lives; better our own society. We have to move past waiting for funds only from other people, from outside, especially for these causes.

Sonam Ongmo Editor-at-Large

The Raven March, 2013 3 TEAM & contributOrs

Sunny Tobgay, a freelance journalist is the former editor of Bhutan Youth.

Publisher: Dechen Ongmo Executive Director: Kesang P. Dorji Gopilal Acharya is a writer-journalist and an independent Email: [email protected] consultant based in Thimphu. He is the former editor of The Journalist and Bhutan Times. Editor at Large: Sonam Ongmo Feature Editor: Mitra Raj Dhital Email: [email protected] [email protected] Achyut Bhandari served for 30 years in the civil service Senior Reporter: Tshering Dorji before retiring as the Managing Director of Bhutan Post. He is currently the Vice President of Bhutan Nyamrup Tshogpa. Email: [email protected] Designer: Tashi Palden Email: [email protected] Photographer: Lhendup Dekey Choden Gyeltshen works in the office of the Prime Minister as a AFD: Karma Wangchuk & media attache. She is a former journalist. Tshewang Dem Email: [email protected] Intern: Sonam Yangki Phone # Office: 02-337711 Karma Singye Dorji is the author of ‘Dreaming of Prayer Flags: Stories Fax: 02-337722 & Images from Bhutan.’ For International orders contact our agent Nima Lhamo in New York Address: 42-20 Ditmars Blvd, Astoria, NY 11105 Email: [email protected] Jurmi Chhowing is a freelance journalist. He maintains a blog at iamdrukpa.blogspot.com. Printed at: Kuensel Corp. Thimphu.

K.C.Jose is a lecturer at the Samtse College of Education.

The Raven is a monthly publication ( Registration no 302000004) Content Copyright © The Raven. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form. The Raven is not responsible for statements expressed by non-staff contributors or advertising claims. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss or damage of unsolicited material. Subscription enquiries and change of address should be sent to The Raven PO Box 1047, Thimphu. For international orders outside Bhutan please contact Office Manager at # 17117574 Email [email protected].

4 The Raven March, 2013 news in brief FEB

Publisher: Dechen Ongmo Executive Director: Kesang P. Dorji Email: [email protected] haa trongsa Editor at Large: Sonam Ongmo Feature Editor: Mitra Raj Dhital Haa experienced heaviest snowfall Mangdechu electro Email: [email protected] ive western Dzongkhags recorded between 5cm and 22cm snowfall be- mechanical works [email protected] Ftween February 16-17. According to data officials from the meteorology Senior Reporter: Tshering Dorji division gathered, Haa experienced the heaviest snowfall - 22cm, followed n Indian manufacturing com- Email: [email protected] by Gasa with 20cm and Thimphu 8.5cm. Bumthang and Paro recorded Apany, Bharat Heavy Electricals 5cm of snow cover each. ltd (BHEL), has been, once again, Designer: Tashi Palden awarded the electro mechanical Email: [email protected] works for the 720MW Mangdechu thimphu Photographer: Lhendup project in Trongsa. The company Domestic violence prevention bill endorsed based in Bhopal and Bangalore AFD: Karma Wangchuk & had also installed electro mechani- Tshewang Dem ational Council members endorsed the Domestic Violence Preven- cal equipments in the hydropower Email: [email protected] Ntion bill on Febraury 18. Of the 20 members present at the session, projects in Chhukha, Kurichhu, Intern: Sonam Yangki 19 voted for the bill. The National Assembly presented the bill to the lower Tala, Punatsangchhu I and Punat- house after its adoption during the ninth session of Parliament last year. sangchhu II. Phone # Office: 02-337711 Fax: 02-337722 wangdue trashigang For International orders Truck runs over a nine-year-old boy contact our agent Nima Lhamo in New York Chorten vandels nine-year-old boy was killed at Bijitshukha on the Wangdue-Tsirang Address: 42-20 Ditmars Blvd, Ahighway when he came under the tyre of a reversing tipper truck. The apprehended Astoria, NY 11105 incident occurred at Bijitshukha under Daga geowg in Wangdue, around Email: [email protected] 26 km from Wangdue Zam. Police report said the left tyre had completely rashigang police detained two crushed the boy’s head. The 22-year-old driver from Dagana in his state- Tmen for vandalising seven Printed at: Kuensel Corp. Thimphu. ment to the police said that he did not see the boy behind the truck when chortens at Lengkhar and Chali he was reversing. in Khamdhang, Trashiyangtse, on January 17 and 18. The suspects thimphu from Khamdhang in Yangtse and Yangnyer in Trashigang were ar- Raise in perks for LG members rested in Lengkhar and Chali on January 30. Trashigang superinten- ups, mangmis and tshogpas will now get a raised annual allowance dent of police Major Dorji Khando Gequal to a month’s basic salary for official tours within the gewog. This said the suspects confessed to the was announced on February 6, at the closing of the seventh annual gup’s crime. He said they had vandalised conference in Thimphu. Local government officials are paid the allowance chortens in Mongar, Trashigang or thue instead of travel and daily allowances (TA/DA), mileage and porter and Bumthang in the past. and pony fares that are paid to civil servants.

The Raven March, 2013 5 Subscribe Today

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Email: [email protected] quotes

The confidence and stature we enjoy as a HIs majesty the king unique nation today were born from the during the Indian Republic Day State hard work of generations of Bhutanese, Banquet hosted for Him by the complemented by the extraordinary President of India. friendship we have with India. AROUND

We’ve learned the hard way that we can’t Prime Minister On NC elections Jigmi Y. Thinley be a GNH bubble in a GDP world and to the It’s a privilege for me to International share with you my intention to that we can’t build a GNH society in one Expert Group, working on the seek nomination as a candidate of corner of the Himalayas surrounded by New Development Tashigang for the NC elections. Paradigm. a world obsessed with accumulation of Dasho Sonam Kinga via twitter. material wealth at all costs. On Political Parties Bhutan can just stay quiet, stay happy and Hunter Lovins Edition Six months 1 year (12 Issues) No. of copies Total amount professor of sus- Considering political parties- re- get on with its own life, why should Bhutan tainable business member folks; the more ostenta- Hard copy Nu. 550 Nu. 1,100 management take on its shoulders the responsibility for at Bainbridge tious their plans and policies- the PDF Nu. 500 Nu. 1000 graduate institute saving the world. and Bard College, less likely its gonna be true. in an interview Jurmi chhowing on twitter. with local media.

The issue of how Bhutan builds its Ranjan Mathai Indian Foreign On disability relationship with other countries Secretary during his visit to Bhutan. We can’t ignore any section of our or the rest of the world is a matter society. There is an urgent need to for Bhutanese people to decide. address the problems faced by the disabled. PDP has plans for them. PDP via twitter.

Dorji Choden The biggest problem I see in politics, Bhutan’s first female engineer is that there are no role models. who will contest On Politics the 2013 elections as a Druk Nyamrup Learn Dzongkha in 5 years, you get Tshogpa candidate. paid too. Become an MP. Tashi Gyeltshen on twitter.

The Raven March, 2013 7 NOT JUST YOUR MONTHLY GUARDIAN... WE’RE MUCH MORE!

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NOT JUST YOUR MONTHLY GUARDIAN... Paro Tshechu MARCH 23-27 RINPUNG DZONG WE’RE MUCH MORE! The prestigious Paro Tshechu is held in honor of Guru Pad- masambhava. It was first initiated by Paro Penlop, Gragpa Gyatsho in the 17th century.

Gomkora Tshechu MARCH 20-22 GOMPHUKORA, TRASHIGANG The festival draws people from all cross section of society in eastern Bhutan. A special visit is made by the Dakpa tribe from Tawang in neighbouring Arunachal Pradesh (India). Many nomadic tribes from Merak and Sakten also come to witness the Tshechu. EDUCATION FAIR SPORTS The Great India Education Fair football MARCH 9-10 MARCH 2-7 CHANGLIMITHANG STADIUM CHANGLIMITHANG STADIUM The exhibitors - with a wide range of education and admis- Indian league football club Sikkim United will play a friendly sion related information - will aid Bhutanese students with match with Drukpol club on March 2, Zimdra FC on March hundreds of college options in India. Over 100 colleges and 5 and Yeedzin FC on March 7. Baichung Bhutia, will be rep- schools have shown their interest to participate. resenting Sikkim United. MEETING basketball MARCH 15 THIMPHU bhutan insurance shareholders meeting MARCH 8 With 12 basketball clubs registered, the first Thimphu basket- ball league is scheduled for March 15. Winners of the league TARAYANA CONFERENCE HALL, THIMPHU will get the opportunity to represent the country in the annual During the 4th Annual General Meeting of Bhutan Insurance South Asian Basketball Association (SABA) Club Champion- Limited, shareholders and board members will consider the ship. Audited Accounts and declare dividends.

The Raven March, 2013 9 cover story

education for special needs in bhutan By TSHERING DORJI

orji Phuntsho nearly had a nerv- that it is providing the basic op- Dous breakdown caring for his son portunity we can to such children who suffered from scoliosis and who otherwise do not have a a speech disorder since birth. place in our schools. Every day of the past 13 years Eight Special Schools have had been a challenge for Dorji been introduced across the and his wife who have two other country and this could eventually children. Scoliosis is a disorder change the lives of hundreds of that causes an abnormal curv- children who are disabled and de- ing of the spine. The spine runs velopmentally challenged. Right down the back, hence known as now the only place for them is the backbone, naturally curving a in hospitals, while others stay little. But people who suffer from confined at home with parents scoliosis have a spine that curves and without the medical support too much like the letter C or S. A and care that is required. few years ago, the father of three “Things are different today,” reluctantly enrolled 13-year-old Jigme’s father, Dorji Phuntsho, Jigme in Changangkha Lower said of his son. “He’s like a dif- Secondary School, Thimphu. ferent person now as he doesn’t Three years on, Jigme is have to be constantly monitored beginning to show signs of like we had to in the past.” improvement. His back may not While there are success be straight, but his speech has stories like Jigme’s and the intro- improved steadily. This has all duction of Special Education has been made possible by a little undoubtedly benefited so many known pilot project, initiated in of these children, critics (includ- to coach children with develop- the lower secondary school by ing some teachers dealing di- mental problems,” said a teacher the education ministry in 2001, rectly with these children) worry assigned the responsibility of which introduced “Special Edu- that those with severe disabilities teaching disabled children in a cation” to children with special are not getting the proper care Thimphu school. Come to think needs. they need even in these special of the challenges that teachers Though still small even after schools or in hospitals around the have ordinarily with normal a decade of its introduction, the country. children. Caring for and trying to project in Changangkha School “The project has put greater provide instruction and lessons to is helping 35 children like Jigme pressure on us because it is an children that are developmentally overlook and perhaps overcome extremely demanding job and we challenged requires an extraor- their disabilities. It is a start in don’t have the proper training dinary amount of effort to help

10 The Raven March, 2013 them make progress. to make their lives meaningful, Trashigang, in 1973. And so be- “I’m worried that in the future but also to help sustain them- gan Bhutan’s initiative to include these projects will still remain the selves in the future. disabled children to participate in way it is at present, and not move Although modern education the education process. forward,” he said, referring to the was introduced to Bhutan in the A child with Today, the Special Educa- lack of resources at the education 1950’s there was no school or in- special needs tion program is looked after by in a classroom at a committed Division under the ministry. stitution that catered to any form Changankha School The debate is about whether of disability till 1973. Department of School Education. these otherwise healthy, but disa- Under the patronage of His It was initially set up as a unit in bled, children are being provided Royal Highness Prince Namgyal 2000 but it has over the years the right kind of teachers, facili- Wangchuck a school for the visu- grown into a full-fledged division. ties and medical services, not just ally impaired came up in Khaling, Special Education in Bhutan,

The Raven March, 2013 11 cover story

as it is elsewhere, is designed for students with special edu- cational needs, which requires additional support services in the form of trained teachers, teach- ing approaches, equipments, and special care within and outside the classrooms. But even though Special Schools have sprung up across Bhutan boasting enrollment of 343 students with various disabili- ties, a lack of funds and trained specialized teachers continues to remain a serious challenge. “My son even after a year in school finds it very difficult to cope because he often says that the teachers lose their patience with him,” said one parent on condition of anonymity. Teachers, on the other hand, feel, they are doing their best with whatever little is provided to them. One of the problems seems to be that these children with developmental disabilities are in classrooms meant for regular school children. In the west, spe- cial education costs a fortune and the teachers are specialized to teach only special needs classes. So to expect normal school teachers to cater to children with special needs is putting a little more of an onus on them. “We cannot give them or to create a separate special for that child. special care just because they are needs class. The problem with “Special Education is a different from other kids. And putting a child with special needs complex process because of the the fact is that it is very difficult in a classroom with normal chil- diverse nature of disabilities,” to teach children with special dren can have only downsides. It HER MAJESTY THE said Pema Chophel, program of- needs, especially so if you have not only holds the teacher back gYALTSUN PRESENTS ficer for Special Education. “The to multitask and teach regular from teaching the rest of the AN AWARD TO ministry is doing its best but it A CHILD WITH students at the same time,” one children if he or she gives too SPECIAL NEEDS does not have the capacity or the teacher said. much to the child, or the child resources.” So far, there has been no ef- with special needs can go ignored He maintains that the Na- fort to design a separate curricu- because the teacher doesn’t have tional curriculum should be the lum for children with develop- the patience to deal with having goal and within that there should mental disabilities in the country to spare the extra energy and time be accommodation, adaptation

12 The Raven March, 2013 The problem with putting a child with special needs in a classroom with normal children can have only downsides.

villages and homes. Others try to go to school, but make it only so far because they are physically unable to. There was a story in one of the papers several years ago in eastern Bhutan about a young disabled boy who was carried to school by his friend, everyday without fail. But after a few years as the boys got older, the friend and flexibility. That notwithstanding, there was unable to carry him anymore In Bhutan, the National pol- is a subtle but obvious discrimi- so the disabled boy had to drop icy on Special Educational needs, nation against the disabled in out. defines a child, as “having Special Bhutan. People label them as Sonam Pelden, a mother of Educational Needs if he/she has a “Shou”, lame or cripple, or “Tsha- a young girl who is mentally and tEACHERS significant difficulty in perform- gay” which could have connota- INTERACTING WITH developmentally challenged said ing any activity compared to the tions of endearment, but largely THE STUDENTS she preferred to keep her daugh- majority of children of the same mean being an idiot or lacking ter at home rather than sending age; has a barrier which prevents intelligence. People even look at her to school. “My daughter is 15, or hinders her/him from making them unpleasantly, even if it is but functions at the mental level use of educational facilities of a unintentional. As a result, only a of an 11 year old. I do not want kind generally provided for chil- few of them go to schools, while to put extra stress on her and dren of the same age in school.” many are left to their fate in their further complicate matters.”

The Raven March, 2013 13 cover story

Although there are a lot of the minister, Lyonpo Thakur S. So far, more than 400 schools catering to specific dis- Powdyel has said. teachers have been trained and abilities like the Khaling School Yet, some parents are of the sensitized through workshops for the blind, or the Drugyel opinion that a lot still needs to be conducted by Laager’s foundation School for the deaf in Paro, the done to help children with develop- in collaboration with the educa- reality is that the Special Educa- mental and physical disabilities. tion ministry. tion program in Bhutan is only “The Special Education division “We not only fund but also designed for children with mild has to expand its activities. And, it contribute knowledge to guide to moderate disabilities like should establish separate schools the program,” he said. “In Speech Disorders, Autism, Down for special children and not club the U.S. Special Education is Syndrome, Scoliosis and Blind- them together in schools with demanded by the parents. But, ness. regular kids,” said a 42-year-old here, it is encouraging to see that The Special Educational parent whose only child suffers the government has taken the needs policy was drafted in line from Autism. “Such children have first move. Having said that, a lot with the principles of educating different learning needs and indi- more needs to be done.” for Gross National Happiness, an vidual learning capacities which What may seem like a beacon initiative supported and pro- require more attention from the of hope is that the foundation moted by the Education Minis- teachers and they can’t get that in is rendering help to the Royal ter himself to promote Green regular schools.” University of Bhutan in initiat- Schools for Green Bhutan, and In 2007, the parents of chil- ing a Masters program on special to promote the Child Friendly dren with Special Needs formed education. School concept. a Parent Support Group. And “We will continue our sup- “The elements of Green although the support group fell port and we will try to establish School encompass the multiple through a few years later, they have a Special Education component dimensions of the learners’ lives once again come together to form in every school in Bhutan,” said - natural, intellectual, academic, an NGO called “Ability Bhutan Laager. social, cultural, spiritual, aes- Society”. Laager is the son-in-law of thetic and moral dimensions,” A member of the NGO said Ms. Lisina Hoch, who was a that the Special Education program classmate of the Her Highness in Bhutan has a few drawbacks, in the Royal Great Grandmother that it does not cater to those who while they were students in are severely disabled. Switzerland. He and his wife, Nevertheless, the pilot projects Alix Laager, are committed to do being carried out in all the eight all they can knowing that there some parents are schools have been possible because are many parents in Bhutan who of Rudolf J. Laager, president of Lu- have the same challenges they do. of the opinion KaDa International that has been On a cold evening in New supporting the program through York on December 17, 2012, after that a lot still the initiative of Bhutan foundation the National Day celebrations of needs to be for the past five years. Bhutan, the family got together Laager, who lives in New York, with their friends and some done to help is a father of a child with Down members of Bhutan Foundation Syndrome. But, unlike in Bhutan and toasted to Bhutan. “We have children with where there are no specialists to given all our support to the Min- developmental deal with such children, his son, istry of Education and we are very Daniel, is now in the sixth grade impressed with how much they and physical because of the state-of-the-art facili- are doing, but there are many ties in the U.S. He can watch his challenges, and initiating some- disabilities. favorite movies on You-Tube and thing like this is never easy,” he even knows how to read and write. said. “What is important is that

14 The Raven March, 2013 they have started it and everybody Wangchuck National Referral meet for the disabled in Sikkim, has to give their support to this Hospital in Thimphu said his India, last year. In the same event, initiative.” unit has recorded an increase in pALDEN WITH Bhutanese children suffering from According to a survey carried the number of pediatric cases HIS TEAMMATES disabilities did the nation proud by out by the National Statistics with neurological disorders. AT THE SPECIAL bringing home 16 medals alto- Bureau and UNICEF Bhutan in “Disabled children have dif- OLYMPICS HELD IN gether. Palden and his friends had, 2011, about 30 percent of Bhuta- ferent physical and mental needs. ATHENS, 2011 in 2011, put Bhutan in the number nese children aged between two to And while physical therapy may one spot in the Special Olympics in nine years have at least one form have somewhat come of age Athens. of disability or the other. And in Bhutan, other therapies are “Give us the chance and we more than one out of five children nonexistent,” he said. “We do not will show you what we can achieve,” in Bhutan have a mild disability. have the adequate equipment Palden said, with a smile. There is a higher prevalence of and facilities and to make mat- disabilities among those living in ters worse, there is a shortage of rural areas at 23.1 percent com- trained staff.” Special Schools No. of students pared with 14.1 percent in urban With support, guidance and Drukgyel L S S (Deaf Education 73 settings. facilities, like the one provided to Unit) The findings of the report disabled children by the Drak- Drukgyel L S S 62 states that young children can also Tsho Vocational Training Center, National institute for visually 42 exhibit developmental disabilities what heights these children can impaired, Khaling or acquire the onset of other con- reach is amazing. ditions, which can affect function- Twenty-seven year-old Palden Khaling L S S 13 ing in various domains: gross with Mild Learning Disability has Jigme Sherubling H S S 13 motor, fine motor, vision, hearing, shown that if the right teachers Changangkha M S S 54 speech, cognition, behavior and can put them on the right course, Zhemgang L S S 13 seizures. anything is achievable. Palden A doctor in the pediatric won two gold and two silver med- Mongar L S S 63 department of the Jigme Dorji als at the special state-level sports Tendu H S S, Samtse 10 Total 343 FEATURE

16 The Raven March, 2013 Deconstructing the Chibdrel & Marchang

Ceremonies By Sunny Tobgay

t’s a sight we witness at any The Zhabdrung instructed everyone such as the lotus and coral, incense, given scenario in Bhutan – the to be seated in rows and served food unworldly crops and even a duck with promotion of a high ranking items of droma (kaser), drizang (saffron), a melodious voice. Following them official, during a visit by a head of suja (butter tea), dresi (fried sweet rice), were the precious gems, expensive Istate, other ceremonial events and even doma pani (beetle nuts and leaves) and embroidery and religious instru- during the Royal Wedding. It seems like a variety of fruits, while special prayers ments. the scale of occasion doesn’t matter; a dedicated to his spiritual lineage were The other incident that marks the Chipdrel and Marchang ceremony can recited. importance of the Chibdrel was when make one small event as significant From that day onwards, the auspi- King Zugchen Nyingpo of Magada as the other with this simple, yet deep cious day of gathering became the origin brought a piece of the Buddha’s robe in content, ceremony. Many of us of what is today the Zhugdrel Phuensum back to earth from heaven. have probably stood by without even Tshogpa in Bhutan. King Zugchen Nyingpo was im- understanding why that man takes a mensely wealthy and he had a close ladle out of the pot to be blessed, what The Chibdrel Ceremony friend, King Utrayana of Dradrongna, that white flag stands for, or make head Chibdrel in simple parlance is a cer- who was equally wealthy. The two or tail of those chants. And what about emonial procession of men and horse. friends decided to use their wealth the little pieces of fruit and doma that Chib means horse and Drel means line for a good cause. A Dramze (a pious we are handed out? The staid decorum in uniformity. renunciate) requested King Nyingpo and etiquette, common as it may be, According to religious texts, when to draw an image of the Buddha. surprisingly leaves many aghast when the Buddha was imparting teachings Thus the king had to ascend to jousted about the actual significance. in heaven, earthly monks and nuns heaven to meet the Buddha with pre- Just what is the story behind the rider- wanted to invite the Buddha as people cious gems. He then requested the less horse, the wine-dipping standup had not seen him for a long time. They Buddha for a piece of cloth from his and those colorful dancers lining up an approached a man called Mougyel whose robe where he would draw the image important guest? son had mystical powers to ascend to of the Buddha. The quest for the trails leading to Heaven. The son in turn went to invite On his return to earth, King these practices leads us back in time, far the Buddha who agreed to come to earth. Zugchen Nyingpo summoned the back as the 16th Century with the arrival The son then came back and urged best artists to draw the Buddha’s of the Zhabdrung in Bhutan. It also people to make preparations to receive image. But the artists could not as has ties to events from the time of the the Buddha. they had not seen the divine one. The historical Buddha. However, the people questioned king then asked them to stretch the To delve on, under Bhutan’s unique whether the Buddha would appear magi- cloth and miraculously, the Buddha’s code of conduct and etiquette, known cally or if he would walk down the road? image was formed. So, on that image, as Driglam Namzhag is the Zhugdrel The concern was that if the Buddha the artists painted. Phuensum Tshogpa ceremony. The appeared magically, people would not The sacred image was sent to ceremony comprises the Chibdrel and be able to see him. And if he descended King Utrayana. King Utrayana, in Marchang ceremonies amongst others. walking down the stairs, the Mutigpas order to receive the image, beautified Back in 1937, the Zhabdrung’s visit (anti-buddhists) would feel that the Bud- his kingdom. He planted fragrance to Punakha was marked by great rever- dha possessed no magical powers. trees and flowers. Finally, when the ence not only from the people of Bhutan Nevertheless, for the sake of the peo- time for the reception of the image but also from India and Nepal. He was ple, the Buddha agreed to walk down. So, came, he did so with different colored so impressed with the gathering and the people built three staircases made of scarves and a Chibdrel ceremony. what was offered to him that he said the gold, pearl and glass. Coming back to Bhutan, there gathering was a good omen, and named It was in Udumvara where the Bud- are three types of Chibdrel proces- the place Punathangkha, meaning the dha descended. People came for the sions – high, medium, and lesser Mouth of the Plain of Gathering. reception with various tokens – flowers levels depending on the importance

The Raven March, 2013 17 FEATURE

of the person. The longer ceremony In the group are also people holding energy for the travelers. These days, takes over 45 different particulars with earthly objects like Thrikheb (throne after receiving the guests, only the religious items carried by monks and cover), Soelchu Jandum (water contain- chief guest pretends to taste the wine earthly items carried by ordinary peo- er), Chagsil Pangkhep (hand wash lap – a symbolic gesture on behalf of ple. An ideal Chibdrel process is carried cover), Chitala (spit pot), Doma Bathra everyone present. out with quite a number of fillers. (doma pani container). In the ceremony, the important The procession occurs on an Finally followed by the Kudrung deities invoked are Mahakala and Ma- auspicious day designated for a special (monk prefect) whipping the ground, hakali, the main guardian deities of occasion such as high-profile promo- are the chief guests, body guards and the country. The glorious teacher, the tions, marriages or major religious attendants. Processing on either side of four assemblies of deities, the Daka functions. It is led by a person, some- the Chibdrel are the Pawo dancers. and Dakinies of the three worlds, one designated by astrological findings These days, the Chibdrel procession the dwellers of carnal grounds and who represents and possesses a clean does not start all the way from the house the guardians of directions are also mind, body, luck and intelligence. He of the person being honored as it was significantly mentioned in the prayer. carries a white scarf that displays the done back in the day. He travels in a car The prayers appease the deities for emanation of Nyimo Delek (auspicious until the entrance to the venue and the good luck and the successful comple- day) and Tashi Dargye (eight auspi- procession begins from there. tion of the occasion. cious signs). However, an exemption is the pro- The ceremony is usually conducted Following him is a white stallion, motion of the monastic elites where a for inauguration of new structures, riderless. Its forehead is decorated and Chibdrel process is not necessary as they promotions, marriages, archery on its back is laid a white scarf display- reside within the Dzong. tournaments and major school or ing prints of Nyimo Delek and Tashi When the Chibdrel procession institutional functions, and therefore Tagye. On the scarf are placed three arrives at the venue, people carrying they can vary in levels. jewels. The stallion at the head of the Chogdar, Tsendar, Rudar and Darna This ceremony is also conducted procession signifies good omen as it is Nga should stand behind the official during the National Day and during believed to have powers to resist evil. who is promoted. Dancers and sing- His Majesty the King’s dzongkhag In the religious legend, Changshay ers, office people and divisional heads Balaha, a white horse manifestation should stand on the right side. On the of Chenrezig (Avalokiteshvara) is said left stands the escort team and people to have rescued many people from the carrying the official’s belongings. The underground and carried them back to promoted official will stand in the earth. Thus symbolizing auspicious- middle of the line. And so begins the ness with the power to drive away evil Marchang ceremony. spirits and install longevity. In the ceremony, Behind the white stallion, men The Marchang Ceremony the important walk dressed in red ghos beating There is a belief in Tantric Buddhism drums and ringing bells. Two men in that at the earth’s beginning, the oceans deities invoked green ghos blow small horns. Then churned so much that it led to the for- are Mahakala and there are people carrying the Chogdar mation of a black smoke, the moon and (directional flag), Tsendar (flag associ- the holy water. The gods and goddesses Mahakali, the main ated with a deity), Rudar (coy flag) then rushed to drink the holy water guardian deities of and Gyaldar (victory banner). In the which satisfied and rejuvenated their be- procession are people in armor and Pa ings. From then on the holy water was the country. The Chham dancers followed by high pro- considered an elixir by divine spirits. prayers appease file officers. Behind them are people Today, the holy spirits are invoked in carrying various religious items like the form of wine during the Marchang the deities for alter covers, Mandala (mystic circle), ceremony. good luck. Zegyed (eight lucky articles), Gyalsid In the olden days, visiting guests Naduen (the seven precious emblems), were received on half-way by the host statues, stupas and incense. with wine, serving as refreshment and

18 The Raven March, 2013 While taking the Darshing to the chief guest the lower part of the Darshing should not be raised high but placed in the right hand of the chief guest who tours. The ceremonies are always con- draws up fresh wine and passes in to the ducted outside in the open. middle person, who then walks outside then says a prayer. During the ceremony, a mat is and throws it away. While coming back, spread in front of the chief guest’s the person makes a sign of tasting the seat, on which a Chogdrom (low carved freshly drawn wine and indicates and wooden table is placed and covered with offering to the chief guest. Then he goes Changthro and throws it outside. He a clean cloth, never black). The Changth- outside to throw it away. Returning, he then draws wine again and offers it in ro (wine bowl) placed on the right end carries a ceremonial flag which is of- front of the chief guest and walks out, of the Chogdrom and the Chemar (floor fered to the chief guest. He then leaves turning from the right side. butter) on the left, with Phuechog (wine from the right side of the Chogdrom, After handing over the ladle to offering) on the middle. while the other two servers pick up the the person holding the Thugmon The wine bowl is filled with freshly Chogdrom and the bowl, and follow. Darshing at the backyard, he stands fermented grain with a bamboo-knit near the Changthro with the Darsh- filter in it. Fixed on the rim of the bowl The Details ing’s lower part resting on the out- are three horns made of ivory or wood The person serving Marchang stands stretched left hand and the upper part called Yangdrons. With one facing the near the Changthro, lowering and open- resting on the right shoulder. server, the other two take on the server’s ing the left palm, while the right hand While taking the Darshing to right and left positions. The Yangdrons holds the ladle. As the wine grace “Om the chief guest the lower part of the never face the chief guest. The Kuchu Ah Hung” is recited three times, he Darshing should not be raised high (ladle) is placed into the Changthro with simultaneously offers the wine, lifting but placed in the right hand of the the handle on the server’s right. up the ladle and pouring the wine into chief guest who then says a prayer. At a level where the King is present, the Changthro at every recitation of “Om After the prayer is finished, the the offering of the Chemar is made Ah Hung”. bottom of the Darshing is lowered by an astrologer (Tsilop), Phuechog by As the grace reaches “Choedo Phued and the server should leave the the Gyalzin and the Marchang by the Thamched Kyi Ngadag…” the Marchang place turning from the right side of Dzongda. Standing in order of the offer- server offers the wine, lifting up both the Chogdrom. After the Marchang ings, as soon as the Gyalzin picks up the hands to shoulder level. Then at every sever leaves the place, the Chagep is Phuechog from the table, the Tsilop and recitation of “Zhaldu Pantsa Amrita distributed, followed by the prayer of Dzongda offer the Chemar and March- Pauza Khahi” he pours the wine into the auspiciousness (Phuensum Tshogpai ang at the same time. Changthro. Zhaldon). As the grace recites “Zhenyang At the end of the fourth offering, Yulchog”, the Phuechog and the ladle as the grace recites “Zhan Yang Yulchog The writer is a freelance journalist. He of the Chemar are put back in their Di Nyid La Neypa La Sog Lhama Sin was the former editor of Bhutan Youth. respective places. The Marchang server Degyed…” he draws fresh wine from the

The Raven March, 2013 19 photo essay

Still Devotion

20 The Raven March, 2013 Prayer flags at Bhonte La pass (4,890m), enroute to Jumolhari.

A devotee with prayer beads renews her faith in the Buddhist Azha Keza, a freelance dharma. photojournalist and travel guide, provides a glimpse of Vajrayana Buddhism, also known as Tantric Buddhism, practiced in Bhutan

The Raven March, 2013 21 ahayana Buddhism is the supports the state religion through and in everyday living – in thought, state religion of Bhutan. annual subsidies to monasteries, speech and action and performing Although originating shrines, monks, and nuns. Both monks sacred acts like visiting a monastery, in Tibet, the type of and nuns keep their heads shaven and sponsoring prayer recitations and MBuddhism practiced in Bhutan has wear maroon robes. Their secluded lighting butter lamps. Annual developed into its own unique forms days are spent in study and meditation. pilgrimages on holy dates (8, 10, 15, 25, with different traditions and practices Then there are lay practitioners and 28 and 30) every month to sacred sites, in its rituals, liturgy, and monastic common people who practice the erecting prayer flags on mountain tops organization. Practiced by two thirds religion in their own way. For everyday are some other ways of displaying their of the total population, the government folk it is more in the approach to life faith.

22 The Raven March, 2013 The 169ft tall Buddha Shakyamuni sits on a Vajra Throne, called the Buddha Dordenma at Changri Kunsel Phodrang, Thimphu, giving the capital city its first standing landmark.

The tradition of circumambulation continues even as more than 50% of the country’s lhakhangs and chhortens have been vandalized and its relics stolen.

The Kangyur or Translated Words, consists of works supposed to have been said by the Buddha. Tengyur or Translated Treatises, is the section to which were assigned commentaries and Abhidharma works (both Mahayana and Theravada). The Tengyur contains 200 Volumes and the Kangyur, 100 Volumes.

It is common to see the elderly doing the rounds of a temple or a monastery, prayer wheels and mani (counting beads) in hand. photo essay

Before the introduction of Bud- ing Tibet for other parts in the there was a renaissance, and Bön- dhism, Bön – a more shamanistic region. Buddhism flourished and ism resurfaced in a transformed practice that existed in Tibet – Bön went underground. It was A nun religious practice very similar to with folded hands was also prevalent in Bhutan. It is a practice looked down upon by circumambulating Buddhism while maintaining its believed that the persecutions of Buddhists who did not believe what is known as own special traditions. It now no Bön practitioners by Buddhists, in animal sacrifice and other Guru Rinpoche’s longer incorporated animal sacrifice. when Buddhism made its advent practices that came with it. By paradise. Its founder Toenpa Shenrab was to Tibet, led many of them flee- the eleventh century, however, depicted like the Buddha himself.

24 The Raven March, 2013 Food for Thought It’s not the clothes you wear, the ceremonies you perform, or the number of times you sit on your mat silently in meditation. It’s not what you eat, what you drink, or what you wear. It’s whether Brothers in robes An older monk helping you agree with the four fundamental discover- a younger one. ies the Buddha made under the Bodhi tree, and in so doing conduct your life accordingly to renounce the five poisons – desire, anger, ignorance, jealousy, and envy – then you can call yourself as following the Buddhist path. One is well onto that path if he or she accepts the following four truths: But the renaissance may not have edict prohibiting animal sacri- 1. All compounded things are impermanent. touched practitioners in many fice in the villages that practiced 2. All emotions are pain/suffering. far-flung places where the earlier it. The majority of Buddhists 3. All things have no inherent existence. Bönpas had escaped to, because in Bhutan are adherents of the 4. Nirvana is beyond concepts. pockets of Bhutan still practiced Kargyupa School (whispered line- But that is just the beginning.... this animistic religion with ani- age or oral transmission) one of mal sacrifice. Decades ago the Je the four major schools of Tibetan An excerpt from What Makes You Not a Khenpo, Chief Abbot, issued an Buddhism. Buddhist - By Dzongsar Jamyang Khyentse.

The Raven March, 2013 25 article

Young Minds That Dare Self-Employ, Can Change Themselves, Their Societies &

Even The World. By K.C. JOSE

Global growth starts with local expertise - Rabobank Netherlands

outhfulness is selves, but also mankind. Well a cardinal concern in social brimfulness – of developed and mobilized ideas engineering. energy, of intensity of the youth can become realistic In the construction of a of ideas, ideals, and possibilities, not just something Graduates healthy society, social engineers Ypassion. When these feelings to dream about. Left unattended, attending the plan youth projects and youth and sensitivities are properly however, youthfulness deviates Orientation employments as prime priorities. program in tapped and carefully channelized, and vitiates into frustration and In order that we build a stronger thimphu, 2012 it can become a dam of energy potential evil. Put differently, and more responsible society the generating power for a group of the youth unemployed, or youth should be given an oppor- people, for a generation and for underemployed is equivalent tunity to partake in building it; humanity. The volume of ideas to youth gone astray and youth they should be given basic educa- initiates snowballing projects that turned into social misfits. Thus, tion in not just academic skills, can benefit and touch not just our youth employment should be but more importantly in life

26 The Raven March, 2013 skills. Most world communities the degree of saturation of the Creativity doesn’t are beginning to see the impor- same in the job market and vice flow when tance of investing in their youth. versa – inadequate skilled man- Sadly, mot grapple with and are power in certain sectors in contrast imagination, ideals confronted with this issue: Are to the surplus in others. the educated youth gainfully and ideas are employed? If not, what are the Youth self-employment is a bound by rules and stakes in this fatal scenario called centripetal force to nation-building ‘educated unemployment’? Here is a partial solution to the limitations set by a Thus there emerges a plethora above scenario – let the qualified of social issues in relation to unemployed self - employ. Self-em- society that looks youth and employment – can ployment is the mantra of ‘centrip- upon the youth as and should any government etal’ nation-building – the initiative ensure employment for its young is to be from the grassroots to the trouble-makers. citizens? Can the citizens self- centre, not necessarily vice versa. employ? Is the system of ‘unem- The great message of being pro- it is easy to be looked upon with ployment wages’ a commendable active in getting employed is ech- suspicion and hard to get the practice? Are the youth wings of oed in John F Kennedy’s inaugural permission to operate. the political parties a desirable speech of 1961: ‘Ask not what your The history of successful and effective means of employing country can do for you; ask what entrepreneurship, to name a few, the unemployed youth? Let us you can do for your country.’ has such self-employing exam- explore this a bit: But the environment for such ples in Bill Gates (Microsoft), engagement and interaction and Steve Jobs (Apple Computers), ‘Government, the job-provider’ – self-employment has to be made Mark Zuckerberg (facebook) and too ideal to be real conducive by the government, by N R Narayana Murthy (Infosys) Generally, the graduates being authorities and by society. Creativ- etc., who did not wait for their pumped out from the training ity doesn’t flow when imagination, governments to offer them jobs. centers, both government and ideals and ideas are bound by rules But then again, these people private, outnumber the demand and limitations set by a society that operated in envrionments that al- in the job market. The result looks upon the youth as trouble- lowed free flow of ideas, pushing is evidently unemployment. makers. By nature of being who boundaries, and being allowed to In fact, it is too ideal for social they are - young people are rebel- dabble with their curious nature engineers to have a one-on-one lious, they can be anarchic, and – even if it meant breaking some correspondence between the anti-authoritarian. This shouldn’t laws. Steve jobs discovered his number of graduates and that of be looked upon as harmful to business acumen as a teenager the employment slots available. society. If these emotions are not when he first made money by Such an ideal situation, if it ever allowed to be unleashed creatively, selling “blue boxes” that allowed exists, begets maladies such as: i) they will be done so in more harm- its buyer to make long distance youths getting more dependent ful ways – vandalism, drug abuse, phone calls for free. The free on the government ii) Creation of violence and crime. This then phone calls were a possibility rigid rules governing professional brings to question, how much of because he and his friend Steve training facilities. unleashing should be permitted. Wozniak had hacked lines of On the other side of the coin Right now, private sector is bound legitimate phone companies. is the total, and apparent, delink by rules and regulations that make “At the age of approximately between professional training it extremely difficult for new ideas fourteen, it was a technical chal- and job market requirements. to flow. Anything that is seen as lenge, not a challenge to be able A case in point could be the un- rebellious, or that doesn’t fit the to break the law,” Jobs wrote in a monitored production of trained norm; the cookie-cutter busi- document filled out for a back- manpower without considering ness, or non-profit organization, ground check to give top security

The Raven March, 2013 27 article

clearance by the FBI. Had jobs been third world countries continued and employed. Women too penalized and never allowed to run a to be dependent on the capitalist should be the beneficiaries of business, this world would never be countries. This begot a malaise such trainings and job opportuni- the same. called “learned helplessness” or ties. An LFS (Labour Force Sur- Likewise, a young man named “acquired dependence”. A similar vey) indicates that unemployed N R Narayana Murthy believed in “acquired dependence” operates women in Bhutan are double the what he could do and cofounded the at the international, national, number of unemployed men. indomitable corporate giant in India, corporate and individual levels. In order to empower our young the Infosys Technologies Limited. The Parents’ looking at the white collar women, the Kerala model could founding capital was started with a jobs as the only employment worth be a good example. meager Rs. 10,000/- from pawning the while in their children’s lives, In Kerala, the unemployed his wife’s jewellery. is a product of such an ‘acquired women are put together at the vil- Our examples at home may not be dependence’ attitude. People have lage level under ‘Neighbourhood big as Steve Jobs or Mr. Murthy, but long been locked up in that ste- Groups’ (NHG). The NHG’s form a young man who didn’t qualify for reotypical thinking – only govern- the higher ADS (Area Develop- college built a business in Bumthang ments employ and only a govern- ment Society) and CDS (Commu- by recycling garbage. He went around ment job can provide the security nity Development Society). These the valley collecting everyone’s un- and good life. And, the learned groups form co-operatives, self- wanted scrap and took it to Jaigaon, helplessness is the inability to dare help collaborations with regular where he made about Nu.30,000 a think – “I can employ myself” mini-deposits of money so as to month. documentary on this young even if it is a struggle. form an informal banking sys- man made by Dechen Roder. Proactive governments and tem. Loans are given to enterpris- forward-looking administrations ing women to start short projects Advantages of self-employment: encourage such daring thinkers such as: Cow/Goat rearing and cessation of corporate dependence. and entrepreneurs. One may cite Dairy, small restaurants, Basic Following the “dependencia some examples of the youth- Health Centres, Internet Cafes, theory” of the Neo-Marxist school of empowering efforts initiated by Clean Village Task Force, Early the 1960s, parochial capitalism was the Ministry of Labour. A result of Learning Centres, Orphanges and once so tailored and operated that the these is that most of the employ- so on. The NHG approach for the ments then happen in the villages young women has been a huge and the village youth are gainfully success such that it is one of the employed. As a result, this has biggest womens movements in some bearing on slowing down Asia with membership to the rural to urban migration. The tune of 3600,000. People have long NRTI trains the youth in manning been locked up in piggery, mushroom and fish cul- Self-employment is not the same tivation etc. Local electricians and as, but better than autarky that stereotypical plumbers, who are trained at vil- As a spin-off of the cold war of lage levels, are gainfully employed 1945-’63, the US and the USSR thinking – only and in fact are of great service to blocs espoused political ploys governments the rural settlements. The only such as isolationism and autarky bigger benefit to making these (a nation or entity that is self-suf- employ and only a jobs more respectable and profit- ficient). Shut cosily behind their able is to privatize them. For the iron curtains, they designed and government job government to hold on to skilled developed their policies solo and can provide the workers with government electri- moved more or less in an “anti- cians, plumbers etc. limits their globalisation” direction. Though security and good performance and scope for growth self-employment is autarky in a in the private sector. sense, where you are your own life. It is not only men who get trained boss, total isolationism is not

28 The Raven March, 2013 engineering move. First, the government pools in village/ area wise, as reflected in the ‘unemployment registers’, all the unemployed youth. Then, village- level development activities such as road making, dairy running, old age/non-formal education, cottage industries such as weav- ing and soap manufacturing etc. are set up by the local govern- ment bodies for which these youth – preferably one adult per family - are engaged and paid. In the event of the government failing to provide the youth these jobs – which are short term ones – it gives the youth unemploy- ment wages. The philosophy is that the potential youth ready to do jobs should be recognised at least through some incentives. However, such moves should be very carefully planned and possible here. Instead, one needs high self-esteem. orchestrated. others ideas, advice, cooperation Social engineering to respect and reciprocal engagement in Unemployment wages and recognise the youth may, business. This self-employment Commendable as it is, self-em- however, better discourage the autarky is open and receptive, ployment may receive unexpected trend of involving the unem- and above all highly “globalised”. setbacks. Despite the fact that the ployed youth in active political ac- most motivated youth can be self- tivities. Youth in politics is a great Self-employment is self-discovery employed, failure factors strike potential; but politics should not and personal growth his/her business unawares. As a be viewed as a career option for The biggest advantage of self- safety net to such setbacks is the students the unemployed. As it happens employment is that one conducts scheme called ‘unemployment attending the job elsewhere, such employments of fair in Thimphu one’s business in full concentra- wages’. This is the giving away the youth may lead to Shellyean tion as if it were meditation. It of nominal amounts of money ideas being desperately experi- is a rare venture in which the to such enterprising youth in an mented with or the youth being employer and the employee interim period between the loss misused for muscle power and merge and gradually one discov- of job and the discovery of a fresh money – mix in the corridors of ers oneself – the biggest dis- job. This way, the beneficiary power politics. Both desecrate the covery comes in experience and does not lose the entrepreneurial sanctity of democracy, whereas in learning. Such a meditative, spark and is inspired to explore the brimful youth should be con- mindful business is sure to suc- new avenues. When administered tributing to nation-building along ceed. And, nothing succeeds like wisely, unemployment wages is the lines of ‘What I can do for my success; that is if you don’t define a ploy of salvaging the sagging country…” success just by profit alone. Thus, talent. the country develops at a quicker On the other side of the The writer is a lecturer at the Samtse College of Education. pace with self-discovered, and coin, unemployment wages highly experienced persons with are disbursed in another social

The Raven March, 2013 29 happenings

Blossoming friendship

fter a devastating earthquake and Tsunami left Japan shaken to its Taki-Sakura core, the little town of cherry tree, AMiharu saw an outpouring of support believed to be from around the world. Amidst the over one mil- many who sympathized with the lennium old, is people of Japan, this little town was located in Miharu particularly moved by the gestures of Town, Fukushima their Majesties, the King and Queen Prefecture. of Bhutan, who paid a personal visit eight months after the tragedy to what was left of the decimated town. Mayor Yoshinoru Suzuki, a farmer turned politician, said that scenes of their friendship to the people of Bhutan, Taki-Sakura committee has been dis- Their Majesties praying with the peo- the mayor led a delegation of six to cussing the matter with a number of ple of Miharu was broadcast on Televi- Thimphu recently and brought with actors in the field, both in Fukushima sion during their visit there, many them a special gift - a dozen saplings of and Tokyo, who overwhelmingly residents and viewers were moved to the Taki-Sakura (waterfall cherry). With supported the idea. Discussions and tears. “Every time I remember the the collective goodwill of Miharu, which research is also under way to locate scene of the prayers by the Ocean, [I] lies within the Fukushima Prefecture, a and identify a company and/or coop- have difficulty containing my tears,” Fukushima Taki-Sakura Bhutan Project erative in the field of food processing said Mr. Yuge who was present at the has been launched. Although still in its in Fukushima. The rich and under- occasion of Their Majesties visit in very early stages the project is explor- utilized resources in Bhutan, such as November 2011. ing ideas of farming cooperatives or buckwheat, would encourage them As a gesture of their gratitude for private farming business management to locate a simple, low cost plant near the Royal visit and an extension of relations with Bhutan. Apparently the the cultivation areas in Bhutan, where they can train the local people and process products for export markets near Bhutan, as well as Japan. We have potential names already, and will continue talks with them in the com- ing weeks. “In the near future, we expect a number of cooperation projects will be launched, such as pursuing trans- planting high value-added Fukushima fruits to Bhutan, coupled with training of Bhutanese farmers and farm man- agers in Fukushima. These will be mutually benefitting in many ways,” said a press statement released to The Raven. The tradition of extending cherry saplings/blossoms to explore and Taki-Sakura stands 12 meters high, sitting on the main trunk which measures 3 meters establish lasting friendships is neither in diameter. It spreads 22 meters east-west, and 18 meters north-south, with the heavy, new, nor uncommon for the Japanese. stretched-out branches being supported by a number of wooden pillars.

30 The Raven March, 2013 happenings bhutan gets its first law Journal

he Bhutan Law Review, provide pre and in-service continuing which was launched on legal education,” said Pema Wang- February 21, coinciding chuk, “and the publication will at- with the birth anniversary tempt to help educate the public on all Tof His Majesty the King, is perhaps issues and aspects of the law through a much-needed publication today in articles highlighting stories on legal Bhutanese society. issues and important judiciary cases. It is a journal that will help shed This is a means to pass on informa- light on many facets of the Bhutanese tion on law and it also provides a law, cases, and legal issues that Bhuta- forum for people to express their However, a team of legal experts from nese society grapples with. We are fast concerns on anything to do with it.” the Bhutan National Law Institute guides changing from a society that was used For instance in the first issue, he said, the contributors to explain, interpret, and to customary and traditional laws that there is an article on the Tobacco Act. understand legal terminologies. were not well defined or even written. “The article does not say whether this “We are not restricting this to legal But since we became a Democracy is wrong or right, but we try to weigh persons only,” the Director said, “ It is there have been new laws and acts both sides of what such a law does and open to the public to write about a case pumped out regularly, moving legisla- the social consequences of it.” in court, their experiences in the court, tions from customary to statutory. Many other countries have Law how they felt, what are their concerns. We The average Bhutanese citizen has Reviews and Law Journals. They are want to be a resource and act as a refer- hardly been able to keep up with these usually academic publications written ence for people who want information on changes resulting in a lack of under- by students of law or law profession- past cases and issues, and for research.” standing the implications of it. Conse- als. There are also publications from It might be important for citizens quently many have wound up paying the legal field that are mainly verdicts to know that since legal representation a heavy price with incarceration for rendered, and commentaries provided is allowed, there are about a 192 profes- their ignorance of these new laws and by court reporters who write summa- sional lawyers in the country, both private legislations. We have seen this with ries of cases. Judges also write their and government, and about 260 parale- the age-of-consent law, the tobacco act, opinions on some of the high-profile gals or Jabmis as they are known locally. labor laws, properties, banking and cases they’ve had to rule over. These Altogether there are about 10 legal firms many others. get filed in journals for reference. In all operated by professional lawyers and In light of that, and the fact that many cases recording such informa- some by retired magistrates. Even then, Bhutan lacks any source of informa- tion has had great advantage to the keeping oneself informed and educated tion available to the public in an area justice system and the executioners might be helpful while maneuvering the that is so important to their very of the law because lawyers, citizens paths of the justice system. freedoms and to the institution of and anyone who wants to understand The Institute has also issued pam- democracy, the advent of a Law Review the law, gets vital information on their phlets that provide crucial information on is indeed welcome news. respective cases from these archives. new legally binding laws, how to make a Pema Wangchuk who is the In the west some of these publications death will, how to file petitions to court Director of the Bhutan National date back hundreds of years. and other vital information that a citizen Legal Institute said that the “Bhutan Then there are also other publi- should be armed with. The information Law Review” was the vision of Her cations on laws that are not scholarly including the Law Review will be avail- Royal Highness Ashi Sonam Dechan (not written by academics) but general able on their website; www.bnli.bt. Wangchuck who founded the Institute commentaries and opinions on cases This is a great public service that and currently serves as President. Her written by the public and the media. comes to us for free. It can only be hoped Royal Highness has a Master’s in Law, The Bhutan Law Review seems to that with such services comes the ability majoring in constitutional law, from be a mix of both. It carries articles or for better execution of the law and more Stanford and Harvard University. reviews of laws and legal cases written citizens understanding their rights within “The Mandate of the Institute is to by both legal experts and contributors. the constitution.

The Raven March, 2013 31 TRAVEL

A Trip to Remember

e had come to no doubt, amongst many Buddhist above the ground and was origi- the last leg of sites around the world. nally built in 1692 around the our travels in Taktsang -Tigers Nest, Taktsang - the cave where the Guru originally Bhutan, and was named after Guru Padma tiger’s nest meditated. Over the centuries we were now Sambhava, also known as Guru Taktsang grew into a cluster of Wready to end it with the highlight Rimpoche, who meditated here in different tiered monasteries all of it all – a hike to Taktsang, the a cave in the 8th Century. Legend perched precariously atop the Tigers Nest. There it was, like a has it he flew (or rode) here from face of sheer cliff. crowning jewel amidst the many Khenpajong in Tibet on the back “...white specks way above great historical and architectural of a Tiger. The temple is located us that appear to hover in mid- pieces in the country, and an icon, at about 9480 feet/3000 meters air in swirls of morning mist

32 The Raven March, 2013 a time, some of us may recall, tourists perched atop ponies, siz- when a good quarter of the day es too small for some of them. If was consumed in making that ever there were legends of flying walk alone – to the foot of the ponies too! There was another hill – from the main road. Now it issue with us having our hike took a mere 15 minutes by bus. coincide with this large group - The ponies were waiting the issue of noise. Had they just and part of the group, mostly silently appeared, it might have children, mounted and rode on been less of an annoyance. ahead. I was left with Bill and There were numerous signs Mary who were both in the 70’s. along the hillside, hand painted Bill had just overcome the odds and prepared carefully, that asked of prostrate cancer, so walking to you to drop your garbage in the Taktsang was definitely a chal- respective trash bins, or to help lenge he wanted, and knew he keep the “environment clean.” I could live up to. now longed for at least one sign It was a quiet and still July that would’ve said that shouting morning; quiet enough to revel and yelling on the hillside was in the soft sound of the water- also polluting the environment, chorten bells tinging, the chirp of or that silence was equally impor- happy sparrows, and the call of a tant in making a trip to a mon- dove or two, all of which couldn’t astery. Garbage may be dirtying be taken for granted. They cre- the paths to many of our monas- ated the perfect morning against teries, but given the increasing the backdrop of a sun flitting in number of tourists every year, it and out of light clouds. It was looks like noise can also be added warm, not hot, even though it to this menacing category. It is was July, and the pine needles no joke to suggest that similar in the forest glistened as they signs on yelling and shouting shimmered with light gusts of should also go up alongside those movement in the air. for garbage and trash. After all A Trip to Remember But no sooner than we were these are places of worship where By SONAM ONGMO five minutes into the walk, the there are people and pilgrims in serenity of the peaceful morning meditation and at prayer. And so idyllically created by nature, whether Buddhist or not, noise came crashing all around us. This is disrespectful in general and so was hardly going to be a contem- it would be polite to refrain from plative walk, let alone a peaceful yelling. If garbage needs remind- one. Two groups of Chinese tour- ers, so should noise. – a hallucination rather than a ists, easily numbering to about The much-anticipated quiet destination, it looks impossible 20 or more, suddenly made their reflective walk with a discussion to reach,” a travel writer, Trish appearance. on Buddhist philosophy was now Nicholson, described Taktsang It wasn’t that they were Chi- left to the winds. Our hike was in her book, “Journey to Bhutan: nese, or that their presence was spent the entire time listening Himalayan Trek in the Kingdom bothering us. But when you have to the cacophony of a foreign of the Thunder Dragon.” walkers vying for narrow walking language spoken in volumes. The We set out early morning – a space with a constant stream of whole hillside was reverberating bus full of excited visitors – to ponies, it becomes a problem. from the din. the foot of the hill from where we We were now constantly making If Bill and Mary were crest- would start the hike. There was way for not one, but a caravan of fallen, they didn’t show signs of

The Raven March, 2013 33 TRAVEL

it, not until the point we got to effective way of communicating On our way back from the the monastery. A slow drizzle had through the guide or the person monastery, not too far from started by the time we crossed the accompanying the guest. it, someone had set up shop, waterfall and reached the bottom Last year alone Bhutan won selling handicrafts and the odd of the monastery. Taktsang has three awards for Tourism, one knick-knack. What had Taktsang been a stop for me almost every from Wanderlust, the World turned into? My first visit to this time I have guests in the country Travel and Tourism Council and monastery was in 1988 or 89. A so it was rather surprising to see another at the Korean Travel Fair. trip to Taktsang truly felt like you that a small checkpoint had gone Bhutan has also been mentioned had left the world behind, even up before entering the monastery. on the “Top 2013 hot list” by if just for the day. The 15-minute Nothing wrong with checkpoints, National Geographic, on the list bus ride to the foot of the hill but when you ask a tourist or of “Places to see and to be seen in may have cut short that trip, but visitor to leave their expensive 2013,” by Sunday Times, ranked it now made it easy for not just cameras and binoculars behind “#2 in 10 Bucket Trips for 2013” cacophonic groups to get there in in cubbies with no locks, and told by the Forbes Travel Guide, and hordes, but even the odd pedlar. rather curtly, “at your own risk,” ranked “#5 out of 46 places to go For sure a trip today couldn’t and it is unprofessional on the part in 2013 by The New York Times. shouldn’t be compared to one of responsible agents overseeing Official TCB figures show from decades ago, but is there this. The policeman gave no reas- number of tourists in 2011 a way that we can maintain the surance that he was going to be was 100,833 and in 2012 about charm? there to keep an eye on the equip- 105,414. There have been sugges- Has tourism changed us? ment, but rather waved us off tions that we aim to have at least How so? At a prayer wheel saying, “at your own risk.” Even about 200,000 in coming years. outside Chimme Lhakang, Bill though it was and it is safe, you As our popularity as a destination had attempted to take a picture of could see some of the tourists grows, and the number of tourists an old man sitting and chanting were a little flustered and hesitant grows and hard currency grows, it with prayer bead in hand. You – Monastery or camera? will be imperative for the Tourism could see Bill liked the image. But At 74, Bill’s eyesight isn’t that Council of Bhutan to see that the as soon as the old man saw his great. He doesn’t need glasses, services provided are up to mark. picture being taken he indicated but he had been hoping to take If Bhutan wants to continue be- by rubbing his forefinger and in the great view that is accorded ing a top travel destination, these from Taktsang with the aid of his are little things we have to invest small binoculars. After having his in. Training people, not only tour binoculars snatched from him, he guides, but partnering with other was even more surprised when agencies like the police to provide one of the policemen followed orientation to those who are him and abruptly stopped him in required to interact with guests/ The policeman gave front of other tourists, in the rain, tourists. This is just an example. and without saying a word patted If the tourists that day were disap- no reassurance that he him from top to bottom, just pointed by the camera cubbies to make sure he wasn’t hiding and the rude policeman, I was was going to be there another set of binoculars? It had rather embarrassed when a monk to keep an eye on the to be explained that a language at one of the monasteries de- barrier may have prevented the manded payment for the blessed equipment, but rather policeman from saying, “Excuse sunkeys (threaded talismans). It me Sir, but you are not allowed to cost a dollar each, he said. Since waved us off saying, “at take those binoculars in, and just when? At another monastery, to your own risk.” to make sure that you don’t have my relief, the caretaker handed anything else on you I need to the sunkeys for free and pointed pat you down?” But even without to a box where contributions

English, there is a polite and could be made. Photo Courtesy: google

34 The Raven March, 2013 eminent saints from Tibet came to Taktsang to meditate. Amongst them are Milarepa, Pha Dhampa Sangay and the Tibetan Yogini Machig Labdron and Dupthob Thanton Gyalpo. There is a monastery dedi- cated to Machig Labdron that is located on the opposite hill of Taktsang. In 1998 there was a fire at the Monastery that killed the caretaker monk and destroyed many ancient artifacts. However, this did not stop the Fourth Druk Gyalpo from pouring in resources to restore the monastery to its original glory. An interesting fact is also the birth of Geshe Gaduen Rinchen Bhutan’s 69th Chief Abbot in 1926 in a small cave on the way to Taktsang. As a child, he said to have been nicknamed Dragphugpa, cave man. In roles reversed the Je Khenpo was said thumb at Bill that he needed to be charging for sunkeys, policemen to have traveled as a young adult paid. When Bill turned away, the behaving rudely, or cubbies with to Lhodrak Lhalung in Southern man became upset and angry. Bill no locks. And maybe, perhaps Tibet, Drigung in Central Tibet explained to me that he did not maybe, there is also something and then onto Samye Monastery want to encourage people from we can do about noisy tourists one of Tibet’s famous universi- asking for money. descending onto one hillside in travel ties. details As a Bhutanese we are very droves? Upon returning to Bhutan proud of our country and its he became the Abbot of Tango More information on Taktsang natural beauty. We are also proud Monastery, also a University of the people, their innocence, The original temple built in for Buddhist Studies, where he and how untainted we are by 1692 by Gyalse Tenzing Rangye Accomodation wrote commentaries on Buddhist Tourism Council the outside world. We have been around the cave where Guru of Bhutan has a philosophy, sutras and tantras. fixed tariff for all showered with awards, heaped Padmasambhava meditated, is tourists: $ 250 In 1990 he was enthroned as the a day. 69th Je Khenpo. He passed away on with never ending praises. called the Guru mTshan-brgyad This covers We can, therefore, say that a Lhakang (Guru Tshen Gyay) your hotel (not in 1997. exclusive hotels few disappointments shouldn’t also known as the temple of the outside the TCB A popular festival that has list) meals, car, destroy the larger and better im- Guru with eight names). Guru gas, driver, and received much attention called age that we have, after all nothing Rimpoche is famously known guide. the Paro Tsechu is held in honor is perfect. But where things can for having established the of Guru Padmasambhava in Paro be corrected, they should. There Nyingmapa school of Mahayana in March/April. During this fes- is nothing we can do to change Buddhism in Bhutan and has tival one of the highlights is the how that old man felt about his been considered its patron saint Climate unfurling of the Guru Thongdrel, Best time to travel picture being taken, but we can or protector. (March-April the world’s largest handmade September & mural of the Guru, at dawn. change and prevent people sell- It is said that from the 11th October).

Photo Courtesy: google ing wares on the hillside, monks Century many revered and

The Raven March, 2013 35 Fiction DISGRACE

By KARMA SINGYE DORJI

he Colonel ran wild in those days before he was sent to the Federal Defense Academy. When he was barely a teen, he had already learned to befriend the torrid jungles that vexed the old man who prided himself a man of the world. He disappeared for days on end from the city center, the seat of his father’s influence, wandering into forests filled with mortal danger, carnivorous beasts, muscular climbing creepers, and the dense foliage of overwrought trees. On certain days Tit seemed to the boy that an implacable buzzing electricity emanated from the forests and hummed just beneath the surface din of the overactive insects. In his mind the primal electric buzz of the jungle mirrored the barely-contained crackling static of anger and resentment hidden just beneath the surface of his skin. Many times he had lain under the vast sheltering canopy of the giant trees whose leaves were like the ears of elephants, bitten to a delirium by red ants and an unholy host of insects. It seemed then, that as he lay there in the twilight zone of consciousness, cold, glittering snakes with thick snub heads had opened their mouths and hissed at him, revealing fangs dripping with venom. They had slithered over his body and wrapped themselves in coils around his torso, staring into his very soul with their coal-black reptilian eyes. Sometimes he thought he smelled the cat stench of a leopard, standing in outline just beyond the rim of his vision, growling a deep otherworldly growl that made his entire being vibrate to the sound. Once or twice he could have sworn, as he sat with his back supported by the trunk of a giant tree covered by foliage, that he had come face to face with a great striped beast whose head seemed to fill the very edges of the cosmos. He had also lain spent, released from the grip of whatever fever had run its course through his body like a freight train, staring up at the ink-black bowl of the night sky, dusted over with millions of silent stars. On those nights it seemed to him that he had left the physical plane and was floating high among the twinkling lights that, more often than not, turned out to be a vast sea of fireflies floating through the jungles on an ancient errand of the instinct. Once, having regained consciousness, he found himself at the very edge of a precipice far above the rocky banks of the river Mao, where the white froth of the water made swirling galaxies on the surface of the ink-black whirlpools. Under the surface, now and then, were Image courtesy: google

36 The Raven March, 2013 the looming shapes of fishes grown to monstrous size, rising up from the unseen depths. He saw emerald flocks of fast-flying squawking parrots streaking by, saw black and white striped hornbills taking to the air from trees on the opposite bank, the branches still waving long after the birds had taken flight and spread their wings like prehistoric sovereigns of the air. Each time he emerged from one of these these visionary trances, he felt stronger and less fearful in the overpowering presence of his father. It was as if each time he walked unharmed out of the ferocious unforgiving jungles that his father feared and hated, he was more able to keep the cruelties of his father at bay. He was still not in open rebellion then, but the growing confidence of the strapping young man was becoming apparent. After all he had finally mastered something that the old man feared and abhorred. It made him something of a freak to his father who, it seemed, was beginning to transfer all his fears By KARMA SINGYE DORJI about the jungle on to his son. The woman The governor, his father, had seen something of the world, and tasted its delightful fruits before an indelicacy on his part resulted in his transfer to the distant border outpost with whom he now ruled with an iron hand. The woman with whom he had been caught el flagrante was the wife of the Auditor General of the Colonies, a vindictive man, as the governor was he had been to discover, a man who sat closer to the fiery blaze of political power than even himself. caught el As was his custom, he had charmed himself into the bed of the beautiful young socialite with intense bursts of focused flattery, delivered whenever he was able to catch her alone flagrante was during the capital’s annual soiree for leaders in the government. With his thick head of hair, coal-black lashes, wide, prominent cheekbones and the serious attentive manner, he could the wife of be attractive when he wanted to. He could also, when raising himself to his full height, the Auditor stand head and shoulders above the crowd like a giraffe gazing across the veldt. After weeks of furtively snatched conversations, a tryst was arranged. The husband would be gone all General of the week to attend important matters of the palace. She would let him in. Unfortunately, after frolicking all night, they were still in bed when the auditor returned inexplicably and began Colonies, a banging on the door. With no way out, he leaped out the window, barely escaping grievous vinditive man. injury, but not before the angry husband broke down the door, tore across the room, and coming to the open window, got a good look at the interloper. Eventually, a truce was bro- kered, the result of which was that he would be removed as far away as possible from the “injured party” who, in this case, was identified as the Auditor General. One of the first people to greet the governor when he arrived in that distant forgotten corner of the colonies was the flamboyant owner of the local sugarcane plantation. The old plantation owner was a former army general who had been gifted vast swathes of what were initially believed to be worthless jungle. The canny old man had clear-cut all the hardwood trees on his heavily forested estate and sold the valuable lumber across the border where they were snapped up at a premium to fuel the construction of newly burgeoning cities. With the sizeable profits from that first venture, the old General proceeded to build a large distillery that employed over 500 workers. They produced the best whiskey, rum and brandy for thousands of miles around. The workers were kept in line by an army of his former subalterns, junior officers and the non-commissioned soldiers he had lured to the region with promises of great riches. He quickly discerned the religious fervor with which the peo- ple across the border drank their sticky sweet afternoon tea and thus were born his second and third investments: the sugar plantation, and the first mechanical sugar mill the border regions had seen. The old plantation owner had once been a “Birdwatcher,” one of the undercover agents of the royal guards. He would, in time, play a crucial role in changing the direction of the Colonel’s life. Image courtesy: google

The Raven March, 2013 37 feature

Love On the Sly? A Brief Enquiry into the Culture of Night Hunting

By Dekey Choden Gyeltshen

“…Look for me by moonlight, Watch for me by moon- light, I’ll come to thee by moonlight, Though hell should bar the way”

These lovelorn words from the Highwayman to Bess, the landlord’s “black-eyed” daughter, in Alfred Noyes’ Tfamous poem: “The Highway Man.” Sure he came to her by moonlight, but instead of the honorable Highwayman with his smart spurs, rapier, velvet and bunched up lace at this throat, it was a honey-tongued cement agent from Trongsa. Yet to Tshomo* he may as years, until the village headman eyes as she speaks of a broken well have been the romantic finally told me about his wife and heart and shattered dreams. The Highwayman, or some local two children in another district.” embarrassment, parental expecta- incarnation at least. Until she Tshomo was just 16, discovering tions and community gossip discovered the truth. her charms with men when the weighs on her mind, making her “I feel such a fool for not dashing and sophisticated (in her seem older than her 20 years. seeing through his smooth talk!” eyes) cement agent swept her off It is a well-known fact that for she says, staring at her feet. “He her feet in Yangkhar village. centuries young Bhutanese men shared my bed by night and Today, unlike Bess of the High- and women have found love by 3 promised me the world for two wayman, she stares with sad the dark of the moon. Photo Courtesy: google

38 The Raven March, 2013 Fortunately or unfortunately, An earthy rite of passage for not alone. That there are other depending on which adolescents with raging hor- people like me in other villages side of the haystack mones, these nighttime trysts too.” often cemented lasting relations Chemo herself admits that you may be laying resulting in marriage. she will not entirely blame the on, the traditional Whether it ended in domestic- man who fathered her child. She ity or simply the pleasure or pain admits she was an equal partner practice of night of a one night stand it became in the nightly trysts that con- hunting is becoming a way of life, sometimes euphe- ceived her son. And, in the end, mistically and often salaciously she decided to raise him alone, a relic of the past. referred to as “night-hunting”. rejecting the offer from the man’s Men usually perceive it as a family to abort the unborn child. fact of life, a safety valve in a so- And what of true love? he laughs. “But I did it my way, ciety where sexuality is expressed Here are two stories Shake- by speaking to her younger broth- in the most pragmatic terms. An speare of Romeo and Juliet would er and asking him to intercede on increasing number of young ur- have loved. my behalf.” ban women tend to see women as “The first few times we just made The young couple met clan- the sufferers, silenced by a shame shy and awkward conversation,” destinely near the village Chorten and guilt they did not choose. Choki Wangmo reminisces. “I until Lhamu’s parents found out My own admittedly quick had faith in him because he and a marriage was promptly survey shows there are no easy walked four hours every night, arranged. “It was my fate,” smiles conclusions for feminists, sexists simply to speak to me.” Finally, the now happily married man. or traditionalists alike. What I after their passion was consum- Fortunately or unfortunately, did find was a bittersweet trail of mated and a protective father depending on which side of the betrayal, the unwanted, and per- emerged on the scene, Choki and haystack you may be laying on, haps unexpected responsibility of her lover were married. the traditional practice of night children and, yes, even true love. Tragically, her husband died hunting is becoming a relic of the At 17, Kuenga Wangchuk is in an accident after only eight past. an angry young man, himself years of what Choki describes as There are modern laws the age when young men would a “happy and successful” phase of to complicate matters and an be out nights, prospecting. “My her life, leaving her the beautiful unwanted pregnancy can easily father must be a shameless legacy of two lovely daughters. result in an ugly legal suit or, creature to leave us like this,” he Kinley, an automobile driver worse, imprisonment for sexual says. “My mother said my father by trade, practically glows when assault. died when I was a young boy. he describes his first meeting So, for all you aspiring Yet I always wanted to know and with his wife several years ago. Highwaymen and Romeos, here’s pestered her with questions, until “She was young and beautiful a friendly word of advice. The some friends told me the truth.” and fragile, and I was utterly phrase “night hunting” no longer The words Kuenga’s mother, lost,” he says. “I never thought means you can pick your cherry Chemo, chose to console him about night hunting or even as you choose. You may be lucky with tell us of the courage many wanted to try until the day I saw if you come back with just an of these women have in letting Lhamu.” injured head! their children confront the harsh Having found his motivation reality. It is truly revealing. “My Kinley finally decided to join his The writer works in the office of the Prime Minister as a media attache. She is a mother told me not to let my friends on one of their nightly former journalist. father’s treachery embarrass me,” jaunts. “My friends were always 4

Photo Courtesy: google Kuenga says. “She says that I am getting drunk and chasing girls,”

The Raven March, 2013 39 Achyut Bhandari served for 30 years in the civil service in various capacities before retiring as the Managing Director of Bhutan Post. He is currently the Vice President of Bhutan Nyamrup Tshogpa. The media must be “Free”

he purpose of mass media or all forms of communications is to inform, educate and to entertain. While this is done through various kinds of reports, articles and news through print, TV and now through the Internet, the government keeps the people informed of its activities through public announcements, advertising and marketing. In Bhutan the term media is generally understood to be largely the print media, Tbroadcasting (radio and TV) and public and commercial advertising. Up until the 70’s the media in Bhutan was synonymous with “Kuensel,” the one and only publication in the country. Thereafter, radio NYAB (National Youth Association of Bhutan) was introduced. This eventually became the Bhutan Broadcasting Service (BBS). TV was added in 1999. Then in 2006, just before Democratic elections took place in 2008, it was announced that there would be freedom of press and speech allowing for the spawning of several independent newspapers. The media has the responsibility to provide unbiased information to the people so that a fair and just public opinion can be shaped. And a well-informed public opinion is extremely vital in choosing a government to lead a given term in office. There is thus a close relationship between the government, the media and the electorate. In a way, the media forms the bridge between the people and the ruling government. The role of the government is to provide a level playing field for all media agencies, laying down rules and regulations that promote the freedom of speech and opinion for the effective functioning of a society. It is imperative for the government to do this because this is how the Democratic Institution of Free Speech and a Free Press is built. Democratic governments must honor the principles of transparency and accountability in their work and the media must objectively report on government operations so that the people are informed correctly. In this sense, just as the government can be irresponsible at times, so can the media. But it is the elected government that bears the larger onus of exercising utmost caution in ensuring that they do not curb, through whatever means, a citizen, journalist, or media’s right to say what it wants. Once we claim to have a free press or freedom of speech, it means just that. It is not free, if there are restrictions to what can or cannot be said. Sure the responsibility of how it is said, how much of the truth is said lies with the citizen, the journalist or that particular media outlet, but it is not the government’s. While misinformation and biased reporting can be harmful to a govern- ment, individual or to certain sections of the society, it is one of the dangers or hurdles that we will confront in trying to build a free society. But what we can learn from this is that society is eventually very good at discerning the truth and although some may get swayed by certain false information, in the end nothing can outdo the truth and the credibility of media outlets are quickly established. Sometimes it can take longer for the truth to emerge, but to bring7 it to light sooner – whether it

40 The Raven March, 2013 be from the government’s side or the media’s – it has to be through making all aspects of information available to the public. Occasionally, the DPT government has been critical of the way some events have been reported by the media. The media has, in turn, complained of lack of transparency in govern- ment and difficulties in obtaining information. Here, we need to distinguish between transparencies of the executive government from that of the bureaucracy. The Prime Minister has been trying to share information through its monthly press conferences, but it might be more helpful if all ministries had spokespeople who could field questions and clarify policies relating to their specific ministries. At the same time, the government must direct the bureaucracy to be more cooperative and forthcoming with information. The mere designation of information officers in the ministries is inadequate. They must be made to generate information on a regular basis. In a way, such a situation may not be uncommon in a new democracy where both the elected government and the media are learning and adapting to the changed political system. The Bhutanese media has come a long way. Though it is not fully matured, it is playing a con- structive role in informing the public. However, Just as the there is a serious problem with regards to their sus- government can tainability due to a small market. While it is easy to say this is not the responsibility of the government, be irresponsible Bhutan’s situation is unique. at times, so can The playing field is not level when the private publications have to compete with a heavily subsi- the media. dized semi-government newspaper “Kuensel.” It not only has a monopoly over the printing press, but they are given much of the governments ad- vertising revenue. If it is a subsidized paper then Kuensel should not get any government advertising. Why? Because the government is taking away competition for other newspapers to exist and by doing that the government is indirectly suffocating the fledgling free press. It may not be a perfect free press, but if the government believes in strengthening democratic institutions it must help the free press by developing policies that will help sustain it. Bhutanese generally do not have good reading habits. The 2008 Media Survey finds that 48% of the respondents could not read, and the gap is higher in rural areas. Accordingly, newspapers are the least important source of information and entertainment - the radio and TV, BBS in particular, being on the top. Circulation of newspapers is costly due to high cost of transportation. Income from advertising is extremely limited as the government is the only major source. Though our printing industry has come of age, a lot of printing works are still done outside the country to ensure quality and timeliness. These are some of the reasons why the newcomers in the market are critical of Kuensel, which is thought to have undue advan- tage over other newspapers in getting advertising business from government agencies. While circulation is one of the main criterias for an advertisement to reach as wide an audience as possible, how much of that is in operation can be questionable. There is no clear-cut central agency of the government from which the advertisements are handed out. It still seems to be that Ministries and Departments are individually responsible for placing their announce- ments and advertisements. If that is the case, then it seems personal relationships between a particular newspaper and the specific ministries will be an advantage and that would mean corruption. If advertisements and notices are based on circulation, Kuensel will always be on top. Kuensel being a semi-government agency shouldn’t even be in the playing field with all the other subsidies they receive. That said new entrants must also be innovative in increasing their circulation and expanding their readership.

The Raven March, 2013 41 There is an element of dichotomy between the objective of making profit and ensuring objectivity in reporting. There is a thin balance between public responsibility and generating profits. This is per- haps one reason why most newspapers run allied businesses like printing presses to cushion their low returns from circulation. If the government wants to avoid an independent media from deteriorating from a lack of resources and desperation for revenue; if they want to support objective reporting, they have to re-think the media policy, especially on distribution of advertising revenue. The media survey cautions the media on over sensationalism, commercialism and credibility. Some degree of sensationalizing the news can and should be expected as the media has to deliver information in an interesting manner to its readers and stir the public to act on change when it comes to certain behavior. However, excessive sensationalism can be counterproductive to that particular media outlet itself. But then again, in a free press it should not be up to the government to determine how the news or information is delivered, otherwise we don’t call it “free.” Commercialism is also a part of the media industry for it has to make profits to stay in business. It has to work to achieve a delicate balance to remain credible and fulfill its social responsibility. These issues can best be tackled by developing pro- fessionalism in the industry, an area in which the government can provide greater support. People make news. They hold public opinion as they are interested in governance and democracy. The extent and ability of shaping public opinion depends on the reach of the media and literacy rate. Media literacy is itself a subject requiring pro- motion among our people at all levels. Political awareness is relatively low in Bhutan and, as such, the government can take advantage of Political this situation. It is thus necessary to educate awareness is the people on the positive role of the media as a watchdog in furthering democracy in an ac- relatively low countable and transparent manner. The govern- in Bhutan and, ment alone cannot assume this responsibility. Nor has the government taken notable initia- as such, the tives in this area excepting a legislation and government can policy statement. Civil society organizations and NGOs have to complement those efforts take advantage and take a lead role in this regard. We will have of this situation. to wait for some time for such organizations to come up for which the government should fa- cilitate their growth through easier registration process. The role of an informed electorate and civil society is central in nurturing our new democratic system, a point articulated so passionately by His Majesty the King in the last National Day address. Another issue of concern is the concentration of media in the hands of a few which can distort the news coverage to serve the interest of the owner. There is a risk of collusion between media own- ers and the government especially if a media house becomes powerful. So, media ownership must be as diverse as possible. It is time that one or two private TV stations come up in Bhutan to give healthy competition to BBS TV. Mergers and acquisitions can also be damaging, as democratic power can be lost in the process. Fortunately, apart from TV, the media is quite dispersed in Bhutan and there is no fear for the present on its concentration. However, the government must remain vigilant on this matter and prevent such developments for the sake of objectivity in media reporting. For the media to be effective, the government must ensure freedom of press and right to informa- tion, which are provided as our fundamental rights by our Constitution. On the other hand as a body influencing public opinion, the media must uphold a high level of credibility, integrity and honesty. It must not only be responsible, but also accountable like any other branches of government as the prime minister reminded us recently. This is an interesting period for the development of media in Bhutan. Appropriate policies and strategies can transform media and make it a dynamic force in democratization of polity and society. But ultimately, it is the people who can make a difference in the way the media and government func- tion and strengthen our nascent democracy.

42 The Raven March, 2013 leisure

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The Raven March, 2013 43 COMMENTARY

China takes over its Pakistani pearl

In a move seen by the US and India as a critical tactic in the dominance of the waters of the Indian Ocean, Bhutan’s northern neighbor happily takes over a coveted pearl, and the move comes in the wake of China pushing for a greater influence in South Asia. By GOPILAL ACHARYA

big South Asia at Gwadar in the volatile Balu- The agreement for handing geostrategic story chistan province of Pakistan. It’s over the operations of the Port this month has a veritable gateway to South Asia, to China Overseas Port Holding been China’s Central Asia and the Middle East. Authority (COPH) was ratified ultimate grab of Its close location to the Straits of at Aiwan-e-Sadr (Presidency). Aone the pearls in its so-called Hormuz makes it a vital energy The Port, owned by the state-run “string-of-pearls” strategy. and trade corridor connecting Gwadar Port Authority, was until As Pakistan formally handed over the oil-rich Gulf across Pakistan now operated by Singapore’s Port the operation of the Gwadar Port to western China. About 20% Authority International (PSA) to China on 18 February 2013, of world’s (and 60% of China’s) Pte. Ltd. The PSA had signed a one of Indian government’s worst oil passes through the Straits of 40-year agreement with the Pa- geostrategic nightmares finally Hormuz. kistani government in February came true. While there were emergency meetings within the military and intelligence circles in New Delhi, the Indian defence minister, A.K. Antony, publicly expressed concern over China’s takeover of the Port. The concern is that China might now build a state-of-the-art naval base at the Port. Reports say the Chinese takeover of the Port has not only unsettled India but also the US, given that the Port in western Pakistan is one of the most strategic areas in the world. The Gwadar Port is one of the pearls in China’s so-called “string-of-pearls” strategy. The ports in the string that the Chi- nese state-owned corporations have financed are Hambantota and Colombo ports in Sri Lanka, the Chittagong Port in Bangla- desh and the Sittwe and Kyauk- pyu ports in Myanmar. The Gwadar Port is a deep-sea port located on the Arabian Sea

44 The Raven March, 2013 Photo Courtesy: Google ment ingroundlogisticalinfra - agree thatwithoutfurtherinvest - Many Gwadar watchers ing revoltsintherecenttimes. area thathasoften seensimmer- western provinceofXinjiang,an transport fromGwadar tofar Highway, facilitatingoverland with Pakistan’s north-southIndus a roadthatwouldlinkthePort China’s otheragendaistobuild idly boominginthepastdecade. whose economyhasbeenrap- high onagendaforacountry ruled either. Energysecurity is energy interestscannotbeover- However, otherssayChina’s purposes. value andnotforcommercial security risksduetoitsstrategic take overtheGwadar Port despite as sayingthatChinaagreedto Research atXiamenUniversity, na Centre forEnergyEconomics Lin Boqiang,directoroftheChi- Chinesemediahavequoted Gwadar. Pakistan wantsanavalbaseat have anavalbaseonmind.And Bhutan’s northern neighbordoes understood today, wouldmean “string-of-pearls” strategy, as base atthePort, althoughthe it hasplanstobuildanaval over thequestionofwhether Chinahassofarkeptsilent pease theUS. initial dealwithSingapore toap- Pervez Musharraf, chosethe The formerPakistani president, for theconstructionofPort. initial US$250millionfunding it hadprovidedabout75%ofthe over thePort toChinagiventhat of timebeforePakistan handed However, itwasjustamatter trade zone. ate thetax-freeportandduty-free 2007 tofurtherdevelopandoper- pointed outthatGwadar’s close Chinesescholarshave would beamilitaryone. immediate interestforChina rest ofthecountry. Thus,theonly it promisedtolinkthePort tothe failed tobuildtheroadnetwork dream. Moreover, Pakistan has the Port wouldremainadistant structure, thecommercialuseof THE GWAD AR PORT has dismissedspeculationthat ambassador toPakistan, Liu Jian, Nevertheless, theChinese ments inthearea.” tor U.S.andIndiannavalmove - maritime listeningposttomoni- location forChinatodevelopa means “itprovidestheperfect busiest shippinglanesalso proximity tooneoftheworld’s The Raven

March, 2013 45 COMMENTARY

consist of an upgraded airstrip deep-sea port at Kyaukpyu in on Woody Island in the Paracel Myanmar, which includes a crude archipelago, a container shipping oil storage facility. In Septem- facility in Chittagong in Bang- ber 2010, following a meeting ladesh, the deep water ports in between Burma’s General Than Sittwe and Kyaukpyu in Myan- Shwe and Chinese Premier The primary mar, the Gwadar Port in Pakistan, Wen Jiabao in Beijing, the two function of these an intelligence gathering facilities countries declared that they will on islands in the Bay of Bengal build two crude oil and natural pearls, with their near the Malacca Strait and the gas pipelines stretching from the diplomatic and Hambantota Port in Sri Lanka. coastal town of Kyaukpyu to the According to Christopher J. town of Shweli on the Chinese military shades, Pehrson, a lieutenant colonel in border in Shan State. These is to ensure the U.S. Air Force, “the string-of- pipelines will not only trans- pearls describes the manifesta- port natural gas from Burma’s perpetually secure tion of China’s rising geopolitical lucrative offshore Shwe project access to energy influence through efforts to to refineries in China, but also increase access to ports and air- the Chinese imports of crude oil resources. fields, develop special diplomatic from the Middle East, Africa and relationships, and modernize South America. This would effec- military forces that extend from tively provide China with secure the South China Sea through the access to the Indian Ocean. Strait of Malacca, across the In- Therefore, in the long run, his country would use the Port dian Ocean and on to the Persian for military purposes. Gulf.” He also rejected India’s concerns. Scholars who have studied “No third country should the strategy say China establishes have reservations about the bilat- these pearls through various eral arrangement, which is in the methods: infrastructure devel- economic interest of the peoples opment, financial assistance, Whether China’s of China and Pakistan,” he told seeking convergent interests the media. with host states and of course its “string-of-pearls” multi-pronged diplomacy whose strategy is a long- What exactly is the hallmark is non-interference in “string-of-pearls” strategy? the host country’s domestic and term tactic to The phrase was first used in international affairs. gradual military an internal US Department of The primary function of Defense classified Booz-Allen these pearls, with their diplo- domination or is Report ‘Energy Futures in Asia’ matic and military shades, is to simply a roadmap in 2005. Today, the “string-of- ensure perpetually secure access pearls” strategy is generally to energy resources. It is under- to its energy understood as China’s attempt to stood that the strategy is also a security remains establish naval bases and intelli- tool for exploring and identifying gence stations throughout littoral new markets for Chinese goods. to be seen. South Asia thereby encircling the Reports say China is working on subcontinent. This would mean at least 120 different projects in expanding Chinese navy in the the South Asian countries. Indian Ocean. Another pearl, for exam- Currently, China’s ‘pearls’ ple, is the development of the

46 The Raven March, 2013 BHUTAN YUDA TOURS & TREKS

this “encirclement” strategy not Indian policymakers are “string-of-pearls” strategy is only seeks to expand China’s wary of this string of strategically a long-term tactic to gradual sphere of influence in South located ports built by Chinese military domination or is simply Asia, but also challenge India’s companies in its neighborhood. a roadmap to its energy security predominance in the region. Indian security advisers have PIPELINES remains to be seen. Only time Traditionally, India looks at South said that China’s strategy is to THAT TRANSPORT will tell whether China’s long- Asia as its sphere of influence, “counterbalance and undermine” NATURAL GAS term imperialist scheme or its while China more or less sees India’s natural influence in the FROM BURMA TO addiction to imported oil is at the Southeast Asia as its sphere of region. Thus, India has also REFINERIES IN heart of this incredible strategy. CHINA influence. However, both have started seeking and expanding its tried to test the uncharted waters military clout in the region. For and spread their spheres of influ- example, China recently appeared ence further. Therefore, China, provoked as the military dimen- The writer is an independent con- in the recent times, has been sion of the ‘Look East Policy’ sultant based in Thimphu. He is the former editor of The Journalist and spreading its feelers across South became more pronounced with Bhutan Times. Asia mostly through economic India seeking closer military ties investments and infrastructure with Vietnam and Japan. development. Nevertheless, whether China’s Photo Courtesy: “http://abhijit-suryawanshi.blogspot.com/ farm4.staticflickr.com key Brand Where to buy Contact what’s new Trends

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48 The Raven March, 2013 what ‘S your quirk

Beautician/Actress Dechen Phurba, popularly known as Dechen Selden

Age. I’m 21. Where are you from? I’m from Wangduephodrang but I live in Thimphu. How do you define life? It’s like a pendulum, swinging between joy and sorrow. What are you eating now? Mostly Bhutanese food. I just relish anything Bhutanese. What do you hope to achieve? I want to earn a good name for myself along with fame. Entertainment to you. I love dancing and going out with guys. What is love? When a person understands how deeply you feel for him, I guess it’s called love. Your interests? Hanging out with boys. Your profession? I’m a beautician. But, because I am passionate about acting I want to pursue it seriously. So far I’ve acted in two films - Lhazin & Chemla. One thing you’d like to change about yourself? I talk too much. I want to change that. Your role model? My mum. Your favorite celebrity? Tshokye Tshomo. Simply because she’s got a good sense of style. Like? Boys. Dislike? Cleaning customers’ nails. Quirk? I am proud to be a transvestite and I hate people talking about us in a demeaning manner.

The Raven March, 2013 49 A critical look at the Amoch- hu Reservoir Hydroelectric Project and what its opera- IN THIS FRAME tion will entail) this makes it (sound too much like a report.) Once Upon a King

By JURMI CHHOWING

nce upon a time is such a pleasant beginning. It fills in receptive ears and welcoming hearts that are warm and willing Oto receive. It evokes timelessness and stories that have endured the ravages and consequences of time, bringing us melancholic memoirs and nostalgic reflections. But time itself is nothing but a marker in a calendar reminding us of the passage of things, and in time, all things must pass. Having said that, it is that very reason that makes life what it is; tragic, celebrated, and bittersweet. At once touching, and forever endearing. It’s an epitaph that makes us pause and ponder awhile and almost always gives us the strength to move on in the face of adversity as well as in triumph. The passage of that time in space is like the shooting star; a celestial brief that makes us smile and wonder. A rainbow that makes us forget the vagaries of life and the ruins of time. And no matter how brief and fleeting, it stills and calms our flash-floods. As George Carlin, that genius of a comic with a sharp insight for life’s absurdi- ties put it so succinctly: “Life is not the amount of breaths you take it’s the mo- ments that take your breath away.” Without that sense of bewilderment, happiness becomes just another shallow entity we might spell without ever tast- like all the Buddhas of the past, still stories being told; around ing its true essence. present and the future, he sought warm hearths, out in the breezy “Decay is inherent in all compo- and realized enlightenment and dusk-lights on hot summer nent things! Work out your salvation passed away on the Full Moon of days, around a bukhari in cold with diligence!” So said a boy named the Fourth Lunar Month at the winters, or to the sound of rains Siddhartha when he became The Bud- ripe old age of eighty one. drumming the roof and the

dha at the tender age of thirty five and I do not know if there are ground during monsoon days; on Image Courtesy: VAST

50 The Raven March, 2013 renewed spring blossoms while going yal Wangchuck turns thirty three and Armed Forces - silver (Drakpoi Norbu out on a stroll or hand in hand during the festivity in honor of a monarch of Yoedsel) medal. This included 218 gold-leafed autumn days. the masses, for the masses and by the officers and personnel of other ranks In the end we are all stories, and the masses is indeed an event every Bhu- from the armed forces including passage of every being is both natural tanese is proud to partake in. The fact three posthumous awards. Nine De and sad, but happiness and joy abounds that His Majesty chose to spend this Suups were also awarded the medal when stories are told of times gone by. day with those that matter the most along with two civilians. The medals The beautiful branch is that when again reinforces the ceaseless care he were awarded in recognition of the we tell stories, there are no such things always seem to carry with such great meritorious and distinguished service as sinister villains, conniving communi- mindfulness and naturalness. The fol- to the Tsa Wa Sum and exemplary acts ties or deplorable countries. All of that lowing two stories illustrate that point of patriotism and sacrifice in service vanishes and what remains and surfaces simply yet embedded with a profound of the Nation. buoyantly are memories of beings that sense of care and foresight towards His Majesty the King expressed lived and strived to be happy in their own his people that His Majesty loves and his appreciation to the recipients for way; no matter in what way, shape or serves with such care and attention. having served the nation with unwa- form the choices were made the pursuit Here are some beautiful excerpts vering loyalty. His Majesty also said for happiness in the best sense of the from the event’s news coverage: that they should continue serving the word was always on, as it still is. “On the occasion of His Majesty’s country with the same dedication. The bird may be caged to the skies, 33rd birthday, His Majesty the King, And then this feeble attempt of a but it still flies above fences, walls, accompanied by Her Majesty the haiku struck me: boundaries and borders. It transcends Gyaltsuen, visited Dechenphodrang “The Tathagatha, the delusional divisions and the rem- Monastic School and offered Nyendar And the Eight-Fold Noble Path- nants are purified. The residue is thus a and prayers for the continued peace What else do you need?” fond memoir. and prosperity of the nation. His A rhetorical question of an at- On occasions such as these, we all Majesty met the monks and granted tempted haiku I’d put out to bedazzle become a little more aware of the pre- soelra at the school. The monks of- myself! There are no definitives to cious boons we have been granted and fered prayers for His Majesty. anything but having said that, to some been endowed with. It makes our hearts Later, Their Majesties visited things, there are certain definitives; that much more open, and appreciative, the Paediatric Ward at the Jigme such as a monarch and a monarch wherein a sense of gratitude arises as Dorji Wangchuck National Referral with the qualities of a Dharma King spontaneously. Hospital and spent time with the is indeed a precious blessing for both At the time of writing, the day is children there. They shared a cake people and country. indeed a special day- February 21, and and presented them with toys and Such a monarch is a blessing be- it is indeed an occasion to celebrate the other gifts.” “Their Majesties also yond words in times of hard realities beloved birthday of a beloved monarch. visited the Patient’s Guest House and ever-increasing uncertainties but Today His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namg- and met with the patients and their in our Druk Gyalpo, the Bhutanese relatives staying there. The Patient’s people were blessed. Guest House accommodates long- Now I’ve not been able to sleep as term patients who do not have a much as I’d have liked, on account of place to stay in Thimphu and also being rather too acquainted with the those patients who have no one to nocturnal life but this night, which The beautiful branch take care of them.” “His Majesty the slowly dawns outside the windows, King awarded gallantry and service keeps me awake for reasons other is that when we tell medals to 239 Royal Bhutan Army, than my usual wanderings. The attic stories, there are no Royal Bhutan Police, and Royal Body I’ve lived in since I returned back Guards personnel, Desuups and to my roots during the Wangchuck such things as sinister civilians. The 10 senior most officers Dynasty’s Centennial Celebrations villains, conniving of the Armed Forces were awarded in 2008 has been my window to this the Crown Jewel of the Armed Forces kingdom of the thunder dragon and communities or – gold (Drakpoi Rinchen Tshuktor) the dragon kings that have been more deplorable countries. medal. Two hundred twenty nine oth- like our benevolent protectors rather ers received the Light Treasure of the than kings, and that is why every Image Courtesy: VAST

The Raven March, 2013 51 in this frame

ning, it’s a process in itself- rooted and embedded through many Karmic ties without being blinded but rather freed and strengthened. May Your Majesty always remain as pure and as flawless as the lotus that sprouts without a speck of dust yet stays wisely rooted in the complex- ities of life and in doing that, epito- mizing the meaning of simplicity as Siddhartha did. The sun now beams its rays through the windows in the attic I live in, providing me with light and a chance to live another day as best as I possibly can... May Your Majesty be like the light that shines in, through the cracks of life, provid- ing vision where there is darkness, wisdom where there is ignorance, optimism where there is hopeless- His majesty the king and her majesty the gyaltsun talk to a child in the Paediatric Ward ness, courage where there is failure, and love where there is none. Bhutanese loves and cherishes the kings Anything that comes from the heart and And may Your Majesty become that have served them for more than 100 is fed with a sense of gratitude cannot the very beacon that tells lost souls years. Not to partake in such a joyous be mulled over too much. It takes away “This Is Home and You Have Ar- occasion would have been a personal from the sacredness of the occasion we rived...” And may Your Majesty always disaster. I’m excited this day and apart will be absorbing and celebrating. I’d not arrive there safely, even as we are from my son’s birthday, I do not get all realized that I’d already celebrated the guided by that light... with Her Maj- excited as I do this day every year. It’s an proceedings even as I was logged and esty by your side, and the Protector opportunity for us to show our gratitude, jammed in a myriad maze of thoughts Deities of Our Beloved Kingdom and and in writing this, I hope to show a little ad infinitum. its folks, who celebrate this beauti- token of my own appreciation to a dearly You see, something happens every ful day of your birth, and give thanks beloved king who has all but given his February on His Majesty’s birthday. I that we have in our midst a caring being to the kingdom he calls home and believe it’s a result of becoming really and compassionate monarch we will the citizens he calls fathers, mothers, affected in a positive way and getting the always love and who will reciprocate brothers and sisters. Coming back, this shivers as to how best can one live and that back a hundred fold. attic has a square transparent sheet on express this day. This is a story I’m telling my the roof; a see-through with a view to the The pictures of His Majesty accom- son, and a story someday he’ll pass sky. There are pigeons and now they coo. panied by Her Majesty spending time on to his son.... a story that will be Now they stir from their nests. I hear with the sick and those at the vanguard told manifold; around a warm hearth, the chirps of other winged feathers and of our nation’s defense makes one swell out in cool meadows on hot summer the odd wee-hour sounds of vehicles rev- with pride, of the right kind, as well as evenings and around campfires in ving up their engines for another day’s the bursts of emotions that erupt to re- cold wintry months and to the music chores. But there is an air of festivity, and mind you of the meaning of selflessness of the monsoon raindrops, the renew- the pigeons’ coos’ rings of joie de vivre. and duty. Anyhow I grinned and smiled ing spring and in gold-laden autumn But I have been lost for words the as I gazed quiet and contemplative. I days. last couple of weeks and days leading began thinking that if ever a bond was “Once upon a time; up to this day and what it really means. forged without bondage, it is every time Is such a beautiful line- Sometimes thanking a being you owe so we are fortunate enough to partake in May it never end!” much leaves you speechless, and often, the evolving birthdays of a monarch who A Heart Felt Happy Birthday Your wordless. There was a jam in my head. is every bit the People’s King and more. Majesty. Now I see how I was trying too hard. Once upon a time isn’t just a begin-

52 The Raven March, 2013 An Ode to My King

Your Majesty, I cannot paint. If I could, I’d portray your glorious being; since I cannot, I draw inspiration, in the many wise manifestations of your com- passionate and skillful ways and means… with the reminder, above all else, of the importance of being a good human being.

I cannot sing Your Majesty. If I could, I’d chant the virtues you so naturally embody; since I cannot, I attempt to sing my songs of gratitude and homage in worded paeans… with the reminder, above all else, of the importance of being a good human being.

Your Majesty, I am not an artiste. If I were, I’d act out your persona; since I cannot enact your persona, I try and perform upon the guidance and confidence Your Majesty displays and endows upon us… with the reminder, above all else, of the importance of being a good human being.

I’m not an architect Your Majesty. If I were, I’d construct avatars of the qualities you display and the counsel you provide; hence I try and imbibe them in sto- ries… with the reminder, above all else, of the importance of being a good human being.

Your Majesty, I’m not a scientist. If I were I’d invent innovations based on your visions and aspirations; hence I try and communicate those ideas and ideals… with the reminder, above all else, of the importance of being a good human being.

I’m not a spiritual mendicant, Your Majesty. If I were I’d practice meditation; and realize the paramount importance of Your Majesty’s constant reminder, above all else, of the importance of being a good human being.

These are but mere words Your Majesty, and since I’m not even a wordsmith, I cannot express what my gut feels and my heart pounds and my head contemplates; but I’m deeply aware that wherever I am, I am but a proud and humble subject of Your Majesty, and a conscious bearer of the light of Your Wisdom…

Your Majesty, I’m no philosopher. And philosophy leaves me confounded; but when I hear Your Majesty’s words, I begin to understand that the most compli- cated things can easily become the simplest of actions.

Deep is the bond that Your Majesty has planted, nurtured and rooted, and given loving care and attention. Fortunate are we to call ourselves your subjects, and in being the kind of king you are, blessed indeed is this realm, and the borders beyond.

If I were to offer a prayer and a wish, the list is an inspired subject’s attempts to grasp some of your gems and try to pry open their open and deep revelations.

May your reign be an inspiration for others. May your being be a mirror for self-reflection. May your personification of the Dharma King be an example for the ages; now and forever. May the natural elements in Your Majesty keep expanding from strength to strength; giving life to all it touches, bringing light upon darkness, strength upon weakness, confidence upon doubts, assurance upon insecurity, simplicity upon complex- ity and love upon hate.

In conclusion, may Your Majesty always remain, the moral compass when we are lost; as constant as the Northern Star, as solid as our mountains, as spacious as the skies, as deep and absorbing as the oceans, and come back in as many infinite lifetimes, as our beloved Druk Gyalpo! And may your subjects rise to, if not above your altruistic expectations. Long Live Your Majesty! Tashi Delek Gakey Phuensum Tshogpa! story

know your FOOD Bhutanese Red Rice

Because of its high iron and zinc content Red Rice can boost your blood-forming iron and strengthen ones immunity.

energy nutritional information Great source of energy as it contains carbohydrates and fiber which prolongs the digestion

Nutritional value per serving 1/4 cup (48g) fat Calories 150 It does not contain any fats Calories from fat -0 Minerals Total Fat 0g (0%) Contains angiotension II, which lowers blood pressure Saturated Fat 0g (0%) and helps declog fat- coated arteries. It has five times more Cholesterol 0mg (0%) iron, three times more zinc and twice as much fiber than white basmati rice. It is also said to contain manganese, Sodium 0mg (0%) magnesium, phosphorus, and molybdenum. Total Carbohydrate 36g (12%) Dietary Fiber 2g (8%) Sugars 0g

Protein 3g Photo Courtesy: Google

54 The Raven March, 2013 Bhutanese Red Rice

hutanese Red Rice has and proanthocyanidins, plant pig- viding a prolonged sense of full- been grown for thousands ments, which gives some plants ness. A diet rich in dietary fiber of years at high altitudes a red or puplish color. These pig- also promotes a healthy digestive Birrigated with glacial wa- ments are said to be rich in an- system and lowers your risk of ter, rich in mineral content. By re- tioxidants. Studies published in heart disease and other obesity- taining its outer bran layer it will publications dedicated to Alter- related conditions. entice you with its complex, rich, native Medicine from research of The rice does not contain nutty and earthy flavor. proanthocyanidins on diabetic rats fat or cholesterol, which makes it It has been the staple diet revealed that this compound reduc- a heart-healthy addition to your The high fiber of the Bhutanese people, particu- es cholesterol and hyperglycemia plate. Nutritionists says diets low content in red larly those residing in western in type-1 and type-2 diabetics. The rice is said to in fat help prevent clogged arter- Bhutan, where it is abundantly high fiber content in red rice is also help regulate ies and aid in weight maintenance. grown. Sometimes known as the said to help regulate weight, clean weight With each serving of Bhutanese Himalayan rice or the red Japonica the colon of toxins, soak up choles- rice, you consume two percent of rice, it became available in United terol and feed the good bacteria in your recommended daily allotment States in mid-1990s when Lotus the intestines. for iron, 80 percent for manga- foods, a California based company, Because of its high iron and nese, 20 percent for magnesium, began importing it from Bhutan. zinc content Red Rice can boost 20 percent for phosphorus, 35 After discovering its many health your blood-forming iron and percent for molybdenum and six benefits, it has become a much strengthen ones immunity. The percent for zinc. sought after grain by Delicatessans iron contributes to the production It is also a good food source and other Fine Food chains in the of myoglobin and hemoglobin. for people with Celiac disease who west that cater to consumers who Myoglobin and hemoglobin deliv- are allergic to wheat. are realizing its immense health er oxygen to muscles and tissues, Natives usually eat red rice benefits. keeping your energy levels high. daily with vegetables or meat Because it can be expensive, You also need iron to boost cell cooked as curries. They sometimes about $5 for a quarter pound, peo- growth. also make a porridge called Thuep ple often cook it by mixing it with Bhutanese red rice is rich made from the red rice by adding white rice. in carbohydrates and dietary fiber, meat, or chunks of dried cheese Red Rice gets its color from which can take more than two in it. the high content of anthocyanin hours for your body to digest, pro- Photo Courtesy: Google By TSHERING DORJI

The Raven March, 2013 55 REVIEW restaurant The Oriental

t was christmas Eve when I visited The Oriental, a colorful, casual and contemporary restaurant located in the heart of Thimphu town. It was a good time to wander in as ***** The Oriental is said to observe all special occasions with I50 percent off the whiskey and free snacks with your wine. Where There was a set buffet dinner, free fruit punch and cocktails at Etho Metho Plaza an affordable rate. If you drank two beers you got a third free. There are house games on these occasions and that evening special Karaoke they even gifted winners with hampers. Diners seemed to dig the fun and excitement these raffles provided. TIMING 9 am – 10:00 pm Although the name sounds grand, The Oriental’s un- derstated decor makes for an ideal place for a casual hang out CONTACT on normal days. The menu is delectable so it’s best to come # 17665116 after working up an appetite. extra There is a semi-luxurious, contemporary dining room, Latest movies inside a private room with expansive floor-to-ceiling windows. Overall, the interiors

56 The Raven March, 2013 the dining at The Oriental

also make for a pleasant experience 130 per person. and this, I am told, is to be cred- I would recommend their biry- The Oriental’s understated ited to an Indian interior designer. ani which I really liked and I will I liked the design of the bar and say they make a good butter naan. decor makes for an ideal the lightings particularly because If you are fond of Indian dishes, place for a casual hang it was not over the top, but simple. this is a place worth visiting. The menu offers both traditional The portions are a good size, out on normal days. The and experimental flavors from not too small and not too large to menu is delectable so India, China and Thailand. The be wasted. The service was also lunch menu has a mix of tasty good, although I did have to wait it’s best to come after South-East Asian noodles and a little longer than I had hoped to. working up an appetite. spaghetti, and some Indian dishes. You can also watch the latest mov- And of course how could they forgo ies inside a private room for an Bhutanese Dishes? There is a set extra Nu.100. menu consisting of one non-veg, two veg items, rice and dal for Nu By TSHERING DORJI

The Raven March, 2013 57 RREeviewVIEW moviemovie

et another commercially successful movie by award winning director Tshering Wangyel, ‘Say You Love Me’ has been screening for more than a month in theaters and is still running - creating a record of Ysorts in the Bhutanese movie industry. The plot of the movie fluctuates from the modern era to olden times and then back again. The movie is just right for the Bhutanese audience, in that it contains all the right ingredients a moviegoer here would want in a feature film - romance, suspense, humor, action, and some good dance numbers mingled with peppy songs.

say You love The movie is just right for the Bhutanese Me audience, in that ***** it contains all the haki Dolma gives an im- the movie is about a passionate DIRECTOR pressiveright comeback ingredients in Lue Journalist played a by Lhaki herself, Lhaki Dolma Dangmoviegoer Sem, a movie dedi- who here is thriving would in her career and CdirecAST TOr cated to journalists. Her who has a lot to be content about. LhakiTshering Dolma, Wangyel Tshering Phuntsho, Karma Choechong, Ltalents in thiswant movie are writ in large a featureBut as everyone knows,film. journalism Gem Tshering as writer of the script, lyricist, di- is not the most smooth-sailing ca- casT STandinynopsis Sonam, Tandin Bidha, Phurba Thinley rector and as actress. reer option and it is just a matter of The plot revolves around the life of a journalist who time when one can learn how men- syNOpsis Lue Dang Sem portrays pas- wants to make a difference in society. The story takes tally challenging such a profession Say You Love Me is a romantic drama with multiple themes conveying variedsion, deception, regret and venge- can turn out to be, especially if the amessages. twist when The storyher passionrevolves aroundfor the the job life backfires of a young onman her and his love forance. A little simplistic in its plot, personala beautiful life lady. environment is not conducive for

58 The Raven March, 2013 54 The Raven january, 2013 the cast - taking a break from shooting

protecting free speech. And it is no when the son of a wealthy contrac- different for the journalist when her tor (who gets sentenced to prison) Lue Dang Sem portrays zest for uncovering truth and cor- deceives her and even dis-owns ruption takes its toll. the child she conceives with him. passion, deception, The journalist’s investigative The movie has a happy ending and regret and vengeance. stories winds up putting quite a few justice prevails when the law takes people behind bars including some its course. A little simplistic in its influential ones. As a result, some- Amongst the other charac- plot, the movie is about a times she is threatened and people ters in the film, Karma Choechong, try to bribe her to conceal the facts. gives a great performance in nega- passionate Journalist. But she keeps moving forward with- tive role and Tshering Phuntsho out compromising her ethics. But as Managing Director of the news as fate will have it, she pays a heavy agency Druk Neytshuel. price while the victims of her publi- cations seek revenge on her. She is then shattered, completely broken By TSHERING DORJI

The Raven March, 2013 59 REVIEW book

The book is enjoyable in that it takes the reader with the prince, every leg of the journey, through the various landscapes.

eyond the Silk Route – Travels of a Bhu- The long and arduous journeys charm and grace which never fails to tanese Prince, may be one of Bhutan’s undertaken by His Royal Highness win the hearts and minds of all those first travel books. Afroze Bukht, the through different continents by rail who come in contact with him. author, has managed to provide the and road over 30,000 kilometers Beyond the Silk Route is an account Breader with a curious mixture of frivolous ba- with historical backdrops, anec- of one of His Royal Highness’ many nality and historic events that are interwoven, dotes and encounters has been travels abroad, where the affable Prince or carefully constructed revealing the man- brilliantly captured by the author is seen as a keen and observant trave- dala of a life of His Royal Highness Prince with erudition and humor. ler, taking in the sights and absorbing Namgyal Wangchuck. The book transports Perhaps the rumors that His the culture and traditions of the people the reader in quick succession, sometimes Royal Highness dislikes air-travel with more than just a curious eye of a into the ancient days of Alexander the Great so much that he never flew are true casual tourist. The book is enjoyable in and Constantinople, and sometimes, into the after all. And for this traveller, a that it takes the reader with the prince, medieval era of Genghis Khan and his Golden great dislike for one thing surely every leg of the journey, through the Hordes. boded well for something else, a various landscapes. And, with every rich collection of ever-changing change, one begins to see the world in ***** sights, sounds, smells and even a different light, never once leaving the temperatures that only overland delightful company of His Royal High- price Nu. 1,600 travel can render. ness Prince Namgyal Wangchuck. What makes this book a great Available at collectible is the narration that is Junction Book Store, Thimphu spiced with His Royal Highness’ By MITRA RAJ

60 The Raven March, 2013 QUICK CROSSWORD

1 2 3 4 5

6 7

8 9

10 11 Last Month’s Solution

3 4 5 1 P E 2 W S S P I T E 6 F U 7 L 12 L A 8 E A I A I 10 9 A T F A U L T D E N S E 13 14 Y E R E A A S 11 B O R N E 12R E L A T E 13 A K F I P 15 15 16 14 L A C K A D A I S I C A L L R M T E 17 18 19 20 16 17 B O N S A I R I O J A 21 P Q A L I W S 22 23 18 U S U A L I N F A N T A M E O A E E N 24 25 A S T O N I S H W R I T 19 20

21 25

Solution Next Month

Across Down

1 One bringing a lawsuit (9) 1 Designed to be carried (8) 8 More pleasant (5) 2 Fleet of ships (6) 9 Citizen army (7) 3 Invalid — not binding (4) 10 South Australia’s capital (8) 4 Eventually (2,3,4,3) 11 Perfunctory kiss (4) 5 One of the gifts of the Magi (12) 13 Hang loosely (6) 6 Glowing with heat (12) 14 Celebrity (6) 7 Film script author (12) 16 Indian dress (4) 12 Scottish or Irish singing or dancing parties (8) 17 Opposite of digital (8) 15 Sternutation (6) 19 Weave — interlace (7) 18 The South of France (4) 20 Narcotics (5) 21 Habit of being late (9) Courtesy: Guardian UK Guardian Courtesy:

The Raven March, 2013 61 LIVING WITH LITTLE

We have heard of and read about newspaper delivery boys; jobs that little boys take on the side to make a little pocket money. But when it is the bread-earning job of a 75 year-old man, it begs a story to be told.

By TSHERING DORJI

s dawn breaks and the Harkadan grew up appreciating first morning light hard work, and the people who trickles through his had those ethics. To work hard, one-room makeshift no matter what the job, to provide Aapartment, it’s time for the old for themselves and their children. man to wake up. He appreciated honesty, a quality Harkadan rai No time to waste. His first that made him just like his par- priority is to reach the Kuensel of- ents. He has laboriously crushed fice in Changbangdo. He quickly the stones that lay the foundation gets into his clothes, worn out to the smooth blacktopped roads from so much use, washes his that our cars glide on and while weather beaten face, ties his blue some can be embittered by that scarf around his head and downs fact, Harkadan admits this with his cup of morning tea. He pride. When I came of age I was maintains the same routine come able to help my parents make winter or summer. No weather ends meet, he said. conditions are reason enough for “The work of a laborer may him to stop getting his wrinkled not be something most people hands on the newspapers that aspire to but, for me, it was have to be delivered on time. something my family did. And “I am a devoted newspaper although there is not much of a delivery man,” the 75-year-old choice I did what I had to do with said, “and my profession is my sincerity and I worked hard at it,” passion.” he said. Harkadan Rai, son of road As an illiterate who never had laborers Run Bahadur and Gan the opportunity to go to school, Maya of Samtse, grew up on or even the childhood pleasures the roads, in a chain of shifting that other children may have, labor camps. Forget sending Harkadan spent much of his life him to school, his parents could like his parents. But then when barely get someone to look after he hit 70, there was only so much him and so his childhood was physical hardship that his de- confined to the roadsides while crepit old body could take. There his parents worked day in and was also no one to look after him out. There was no way out and so he had to find an alternative. so it was only natural that he too Fortunately there was a nephew, would end up as a road laborer. Krishna, with whom Harkadan

62 The Raven March, 2013 now lives, who recommended the another town. And, sadly, he hasn’t job of deliveryman. been able to visit her for four years. Although a step up in some He cries when he talks about it. respects, and without a doubt, Krishna is the son he never had. No doubt the age physically much easier than break- He is the one who takes care of him. factor sometimes ing stones, there comes the chal- Together they make about Nu 7,000 lenge of stepping up and taking on a month ($104) a sum that can proves troublesome a job that is unfamiliar in everyway barely get you anywhere in Thim- but the determination to you. And at 75, it may not be phu. But like Bajay, there are many breaking stones, but it is still a job who live within this income bracket. he has enables him to that needs to be done. “Hard work is what we need to work like a youngster. Very soon, however, he was achieve our goals,” said Bajay. “This familiar with his route and the is my philosophy and I put my heart people around him. Familiar in whatever work I do.” better than laborers in India, Nepal enough to be called “Bajay” by the He says delivering newspapers or other countries in the region, shopkeepers of Thimphu who dealt is tiring work for an old man like because they are paid a regular salary, with him. him. He has been doing this for provided with accommodation and Harkadan aka Bajay is ener- seven years now. He begins his even get a monthly food ration like getic as ever and takes his job very day at seven in the morning. After rice and oil. But it is still hard to see seriously. His sense of responsibil- getting ready he heads to Kuensel that they and their children’s lives are ity when it comes to work – even and carries over a hundred papers doomed to the road, a vicious cycle of though it is just delivering papers in his tattered green army bag and poverty. Luckily for Bajay he got out, – is strong. No doubt the age factor begins walking to the bus terminal although a little too late. On the other sometimes proves troublesome to at Lungtenzampa. After most of the hand, this is also the story of many of work but the determination he has buses have departed and nobody is our old people who have little or no enables him to work like a young- interested in buying papers any- means to support themselves. Lack- ster. more, he moves to apartment build- ing a social security network, many It pains Harkadan to talk about ings. He then goes down to the taxi have to toil away into their old age his life after growing up on the stand and the vegetable market. He either on roads, farms, or other forms roads and before he retired from it is out all day and this can be tiring of labor, or rely on the goodwill of to delivering papers. He was once for an elderly man. “Sometimes I their children and relatives. happily married and was a “dutiful am too exhausted to walk back home Perhaps this is something to think and reliable” husband who led a so I simply lie down on the streets about for the future of the country. poor, but peaceful and content life. and sleep there. Quite often, well- What happens to our old people – But this was all short-lived when meaning folks offer me a drink or especially those who do not have a his wife Gan Maya, died from two, and I don’t refuse,” he said. family, relatives or someone kind stomach cancer. That was about 33 At the end of the day the pro- enough to care for them? Should years ago. “She left me a souvenir, ceeds are all dropped off to the Kue- there be some form of social security a beautiful daughter,” he said. nsel office. He earns one ngultrum benefit for them? Raising a child as a single for every copy sold. On a good day, Meanwhile, oblivious to the fact parent working the roads was when he manages to sell all he car- that these are social obligations a na- not easy and, he says, he tried his ries, he earns about Nu 150 in total. tion has to its people, our old people best to give his daughter a decent The story of Bajay is probably toil away at whatever it is that will life. School was also something the story of many children like sustain them. Amongst them, you he couldn’t afford, so once again, himself who grew up on the roads may just see that familiar old man another generation went without of Bhutan, never having had the while you are out on the streets next the opportunity. opportunity to go to school or even time. He will be ever ready to serve His daughter married and see the inside of a classroom. Road you the nations news fresh of the moved away with her husband to workers in Bhutan may fare far press, right out of his bag.

The Raven March, 2013 63 art

Lovingly known as ASHA KAMA, this artist is the winner of the prestigious National Order of Merit and a torch- bearer of Contemporary Art in Bhutan. Kama won a scholarship from the British Government to study western art at the Kent Institute of Art and Design, Maidstone, University of Kent in England in 1991. He has an enduring fascination for textures, movements and many symbols in Bhutanese culture and has been exploring aspects ranging from temple walls to spiritual horses that we see on prayer flags. His works are available at Terton Gallery. TERTON gallery

BY KELLY DORJI

+975 77 88 99 99 Hotel Druk [email protected] Clock Tower 5th floor, Zimchu apartments, Square Wongzin Lam, PO Box 354, Thimphu, Bhutan Wongzin Lam Bhutan Punjab Bank tÊtE Á tÊtE

Lama Shenphen Zangpo has spent more than 25 years practicing and studying Buddhism in different parts of the world. He spares a moment to talk to The Raven about the youth and substance abuse in Bhutan.

Q) We are witnessing, must exhibit these qualities natural state when purified of increasingly, a great deal of themselves. It is unreasonable defilements. Take a diamond problems with our young people to expect a child to develop in buried in mud as an example. especially in Thimphu and other a healthy way if they grow up No matter how thick the dirt, urban areas. How serious would in a household where one or or irrespective of how long the you say this problem is? both parents are having extra- diamond has been buried, it is marital affairs, abusing each never tarnished or tainted by From my experience with the other, drinking excessively, or the mud. Once the diamond youth in Thimphu, I would say spending every evening in bars has been dug out and washed, that the overwhelming majority or clubs. it appears in its natural, pristine of so called “unruly” kids are state. In this example, the just lacking good guidance and Basically, from the moment diamond represents our pure also, perhaps, a clear vision of that a couple has a child, how to move forward and make they need to understand that positive changes in their lives. they have a shared future. It With timely and appropriate is no longer about them as help and support, the majority individuals, but about them can become well-adjusted and as a family and as part of the decent adults. community. Personal wants and desires should take Q) What advice would you offer second place to the needs of to parents, and guardians, with their child. When done with regard to raising kids in an compassion, wisdom and urban environment? commitment, parenting can be one of the most rewarding and Spend time with your children. precious experiences in life. Read to them when they are young. Take them cycling or Q) You have given much off hiking when they are older. yourself, and dedicated your Also, parents need to realize time working with addicts in that children are precious Thimphu. You must find it human beings who deserve frustrating at times; do you their full attention, love ever feel like giving up? and devotion. They are not inanimate objects that can be I sometimes run out of abandoned when we tire of options, but, no, I never feel taking care of them. like giving up.

In addition, if a parent wants Q) What keeps you going? their son or daughter to become a caring, confident Well, as a Buddhist I know that and responsible adult, they everyone naturally possesses basic goodness. This is our

66 The Raven March, 2013 mind, while the mud is the masters of the Dharma who have develop through a number of ignorance that causes us to do offered countless generations causes and conditions. harmful action. a shining example of human goodness. To put it in another way, babies Now, if the mud could somehow around the world do not have a enter the diamond and So, to return to your original greater propensity to become an permanently contaminate it, question, I do not give up because I addict now than they did thirty or then there would be no point in know that even the most confused fifty years ago. What has changed washing it, but this is not the and lost person possesses basic is the environment in which case. That is why a diamond goodness. And that through they are raised. Therefore, in hunter seeks diamonds in soil guidance, that goodness can shine order to effectively address drug and mud. He knows that the dirt through. problems, it is necessary to deal is not part of the diamond and with the environment, not only can be washed away. Also, I try to see all interactions the user. Like a farmer who adds with a non-discriminating view. For fertilizer to his soil or adjusts the It is the same with addicts. example, from morning until night level of irrigation when his crop The addiction was not there at we have to do something, right? is showing signs of weakness, birth and any negative action We cannot leave the planet, and so [world] leaders need to take a long that is being committed is a if I am working with a person who hard look at their societies and to result of their addiction or other has relapsed for the tenth time or show the courage and resolve to circumstances. Consequently, like a person who got clean the first make any necessary adjustments the soil on the diamond, it can be time and is doing well my physical to counter a rising trend of anti- washed away. effort is the same. It is my mind social behaviour. that clings to a positive result and Of course, if someone is a danger rejects a negative one. And so if I Q) Are there any good models, or to themselves or others, they may am feeling frustrated and agitated programs, around the world for need to be isolated from society with the relapsed case, I need to dealing with addiction problems? or placed in a safe location, but recognize that the problem lies with we should never give up on them. my own expectations, not the person Well, there have been many In the same way that a diamond himself. Therefore, to effectively attempts to deal with the caked with thick mud might take address these feelings, I need to problem, but, no, I don’t longer to clean than a diamond lama think that there have been any Shenphen go directly to the source – my own outstanding success stories. covered with a thin layer, we Zangpo mind. Giving up on someone is not understand that a person with a an option. long history of addiction or anti- social behaviour might require Q) What do you think are the main more attention and support than causes for the increase in drug I do not give up a short term user. Yet, in both use and how can it be effectively cases, the dirt or ignorance can addressed? because I know still be cleansed away to reveal a that even the most pure and untainted essence. Well, as Buddhists, we know confused and lost that many causes and conditions For real-life examples of people are required to create a specific person possesses who did negative things but situation. We know that weeds, for basic goodness. finally became good, we need example, only develop when the And that through look no further than our own conditions, such as soil, sunlight guidance, that Buddhist tradition. Both Milerapa and moisture, are favourable to and Angulimala killed many their growth. It is the same with goodness can people, but when ‘cleansed’ of social problems. They do not arise shine through. their ignorance, they became suddenly and at random, but also

The Raven March, 2013 67 there is nothing to be ashamed of. There is not a single person in the world that has never made a wrong decision in their lives. Taking drugs was just a mistake – a wrong turning in the road. Now it is time to get back on track. Also, know that help is available. I am always personally ready to meet with anyone who is suffering with addiction problems and will do my utmost to help in any way possible. Otherwise, you can seek advice and assistance Countries that presently don’t However, once they accept that at Drop-in-Centres around the have major drug problems, such they are addicted, they should country. as Taiwan and Japan, didn’t be persuaded to meet one of the have them originally. It is not psychiatrists at the Thimphu Q) On a concluding note, would that they have been especially Referral Hospital and admitted you like to add anything? successful in dealing with them. to the psychiatric ward for a ten Please do not think of an addict However, I am aware that Taiwan day detox programme. After as just an addict. They are also does not criminalize people successful detox, they can enter lama Shenphen Zangpo teaching someone’s son or daughter caught taking drugs, but instead Serbithang Rehab - although meditation to and a precious human being. supports them to undergo rehab there may be a waiting list of children Like us, addicts have dreams treatment. In this way, the addicts around one month to six weeks and want to be free of their are considered patients and not for a bed. Alternatively, the suffering and pain. They have criminals and, as a result, receive addict can be taken directly just made a mistake in life. treatment for their underlying to a rehab in India. Sahayata That is all. In this respect, problems, not punishment for in Siliguri and Goodwill in they need and deserve our their action. Perhaps the Taiwan Darjeeling are popular options help and compassion, not our approach is worth exploring. for Bhutanese. The Drop In condemnation. Centre (above the taxi parking Q) If we have an addict friend or in Thimphu) can offer support family member, how should we and advice, as well as give If you have a relative or friend see them? information about support who has an addiction problem groups in other parts of Bhutan. As a valued and precious human you can seek help at any of these numbers: being who is in desperate need Q) What advice can you offer of help. anyone who may be suffering Drop-in-Centres: with addiction problems Thimphu: Nazhoen Pelri - (02) 333-303, Furthermore, we should themselves? Chithuen Pendhey: (02) 333-111 understand that their erratic or Jakar: (03) 631-627 anti-social behaviour is a result Seek professional help. In the Mongar: (04) 641-217 of their drug use and will stop same way that toothache or P/ing: 17680293 once they are free of addiction. any other disease cannot be Basically, if we really want to help eliminated by the power of Rehabs in India: an addict, we first need to make mind, so addiction cannot be Siliguri (Sahayata): +91 9609996661, +91 them understand that they have stopped through will power. It 7872984122, +91 9641349393 a problem. This may take time is not your fault. It is just the Darjeeling (Goodwill) +91 9800794736, +91 as most addicts are in denial. nature of the disease. Likewise, 9679198219

68 The Raven March, 2013

total of about 4,052 babies Awere born in the dragon Gelephu Dungkhag Jambay Kinley year according to records Despite it being almost three months since For three consecutive merit awards with JDWNR hospital. In the Gelephu dungkhag officials declared that from His Majesty the King. Jambay previous year, 2396 babies were different timings have to be adhered for Kinley from Dagapela MSS seized born. men and women visiting the hot spring, it the top position in the BSCE 2012 hasn’t been put to practice yet . examinations for class X. f the 8,967 students, who Oappeared for the Bhutan Higher Secondary Examination Certificate (BHSEC) in Decem- ber last year, 7,781 passed taking the overall pass percentage up by 0.73 percent, as compared with the previous years.

Bhutan Paro Residents he Jigme Dorji Wangchuck For successfully demonstrating For sneaking at dusk to dump TNational Library saw a sustainable tourism and making to their wastes in every possible decrease in membership from the top three on the list of finalists for corner as they say the mini green 2,000 in the previous year to Tomorrow’s Destination sSewardship waste bin is too small to dump 1,500 this year. Award. their wastes.

ruk Air’s one-way flight Dfrom Paro to Bathpalathang now costs Nu 4,200, taxes ex- cluded, Nu 4,980 less than the initial airfare of USD 170.

fter the Gelephu town Awas classified as a class A Police officer Lyonpo Ugyen Tshering town, it will be provided with Nu 1,100M budget for the 11th Major by rank but alleged to have Foreign Minister Ugyen Tshering for be- FYP .For the 10th plan, it was raped his 16-year old housemaid. ing honored by the People’s Republic of allocated with Nu 170M. Bangladesh. He was awarded the ‘Friends of Liberation War Honor’.

The Raven March, 2013 69 most discussed news

New parties fishing for New parties to tour constituencies candidates

With the introduction of eight more candidates on feb 19, the Druk Nyamrup Tshogpa (DNT) spokesperson said they have 40 confirmed can- didates. “the rest of the candidates will be introduced at a later date,” he said. The DNT also revealed their first first female candidate, Dorji Choden, 53, who will contest from Thrimshing-Kangpara Constituency in Trashigang. Another new party, the Druk Chirwang Tshogpa, has also identified 46 candidates. Of that, 25 candidates have been confirmed to contest from the various constituencies including sixty-year- old Dr. Chenkyo T Dorji. Bhutan Kuen-Nyam Party on the other hand has confirmed 39 candidates so far.

In a move to ensure a level playing field in the upcoming parliamen- tary elections, the Election Commission has given the green signal for political parties to make their presence felt in the constituencies. Chief Election Commissioner Dasho Kunzang Wangdi said it was necessary for the new parties to put their organization together in the dzongkhags, among others. The decision was arrived at after some parties had approached the Commission seeking permission to conduct familiarization tours. However, a notification the Commission issued stated that while there was no official policy that necessitated such a tour, it found it essential that new parties visit and hold meetings in the dzongkhags, gewogs or chiwogs with the electorate. “The parties can introduce themselves, set up the party dzongkhag of- fices, address organizational issues, register new members and consult with local members,” stated the notification. The notification also directs the parties to refrain from carrying out any activity that may generally be understood to be in the nature of conducting election campaign. As for the two old political parties - the ruling and the opposition - the Commission has advised them not to schedule any activity henceforth that could reasonably be construed as electioneering under section 300 of the Election Act. Photographs: google

70 The Raven March, 2013 most Parliament to dissolve early discussed The first democratically elected government proposed the dissolution of the National Assem- bly before its term expired on April 20, this year. The Prime Minister has submitted a proposal to His Majesty for early dissolution considering the “national interest”. 10 Nu 2M a day was the esti- The Constitution says premature dissolution of the National Assembly may take place on the mated interest paid in early recommendation of the Prime Minister to the Druk Gyalpo. 2012, when rupee borrow- At the opening ceremony of the tenth Parliament session yesterday, graced by His Majesty ings were around Rs 10B. and the Gyaltsuen, the speaker said the assembly would face some inconvenience in the next election if “the house was not dissolved before its five year term”. “Moreover, if the assembly does not dissolve earlier than its term, the next election would fall sometime in July this year, during the monsoon,” he said. The National Council will, however, complete its full term. 19 The government’s move to dissolve the assembly ahead of schedule has the new political par- Twenty percent of the GDP ties in the fray worried. was contributed by the ag- riculture sector in the past few years. It came down to 19 percent in 2010, and 18 percent in 2011. 30 30M USD will be provided by the ADB for the energy sector in Bhutan. 400 400 people were deployed for the Kingathang forest fire in Phobjikha, which carried on for two days and nights, damaging over 6,000 acres of blue pine 11 cars vandalized forest. Police are yet to arrest suspects involved in vandalizing 11 cars on February 5 at Olakha, Thimphu. Two Prados, five Santa Fes, a Tata Hilux, an i20, a Wagon R and a Swift Dzire were van- dalised. Car owners reported the incident to police around 8 am on February 6. Six contenders6 from From one Prado, the miscreants had taken a laptop, an ipad, two digital cameras and Nu Tsirang have declared to 35,000. A Santa Fe was robbed off Nu 5,000 while a camera was stolen from the Swift contest the National Dzire. Council elections The miscreants used stones to break down the glasses of the cars. Police have collected

Photographs: google fingerprints and are investigating the case.

The Raven March, 2013 71 LAST WORD

n 2008, a few days before the general election, a veteran journalist walked into Bhutan Times – the newspaper I was working for then – and was asked the obvious question: Which party did he think would win? His answer was interesting. He felt the DPT could lose because the party’s poll pitch, throughout the campaign period, had Ibeen nothing but preachy, with more or less the same sermons being delivered in all the Dzongkhags, by one man the party heavily relied on. In the aftermath of the landslide DPT victory, that observation begs the question: Why did PDP’s strategy fail so miserably while DPT’s ‘approach’ succeed so overwhelmingly? My view. The PDP did what any new political party would, assuring voters that their young new candidates would help villages and communities prosper. But, that assurance somewhat fell short. Their strategy overlooked the rural distress that had over the years been steadily on the rise. To return to the well-worn cliché of that time, city folks were prospering while those in rural pockets were left behind. DPT did things differently. Right from the onset of their campaign, they seemed more sensi- tive to the needs of the grassroots. Without mincing words, it was made clear that the party would address issues that had for long been plaguing them. In short, they provided people with a sense of belonging – more than PDP had managed to do. People, in almost all the gatherings all over the country, were convinced that being part of the ‘DPT family’ would ensure their progress and perhaps put an end to their woes. So when the elections came around, the Bhutanese countryside was, in the true sense of the word, ‘decided’. Even urban dwellers backed DPT because most have their roots in the villages.

Of course, the problems in Bhutan’s villages are far from over. And many would argue that the rural programs of the DPT government didn’t work as well as expected. But what is important is the fact that the DPT was seen as willing to help. That certainly appears to have translated into votes. PDP too had plans for the countryside. But while it mainly focused on infrastructure development, DPT targeted people. The assurance of building schools and sorting out the tiresome procedure of obtaining No Objection Certificates for instance, directly touched hundreds of people.

All this, however, doesn’t imply that rural Bhutan has progressed tremendously in the five years. The crisis of unemployment and diminishing returns from agriculture need a more comprehensive strategy and sustained injection of resources. But the DPT government made a start. Today, as the elections loom large once again, with five political parties in the fray, it will be interesting to see which party defies cries of populism to address issues that really need to be addressed. It will be interesting to see which party will reach further and connect with the common people. Be careful not to promise things that one can’t deliver, because everything is easier said than done and five years do pass quickly. If we have to learn anything from the first elections, it is that the political pundits, pollsters, and even politi- cians (aspirants et al) shouldn’t be too sure about predicted outcomes. It is easy to see things in hindsight, but not necessarily now. So play right, be truthful about what you can deliver.

Politicians and diapers should be changed frequently and all for the same reason - José Maria de Eça de Queiroz, translated from Portuguese.

Mitra Raj Dhital