Spectacular 2019 Niut Lakes Camp a Smashing Success by Stephen Partington

WHAT AN AMAZING SETTING for a Nature loomed large to the west and south camp! while the vast Twelve minutes or so in the heli- stretched invisibly to the east. copter was all it took to hop overtop From here, the Nature Vancouver of the imposing mountains tower- 2019 campsite ofered a stunningly ing above Bluf Lake south of Tatla gorgeous 360-degree view free from Lake and to be deposited near the any signs of humans. Nature was at treeline about 1000 m higher than our doorstep. Te quiet was delicious. the chopper launch pad. No-one needed to hike anywhere— Instant wilderness! we were already there! Helicopter delivery of all goods And there we were—on a small and personnel was key to the com- plateau forested with patches of low fortable establishment of our near- pines at about 2000 m elevation alpine occupation. Not many who and tucked among a series of small attended this camp would have been lakes and ponds. Te rugged Niut happy to make the hike to such a Range peaks of the place. Our fight was feetingly short

View of lakes, Goat Ridge, glacier and Niut Peak from Snow Patch Peak. Photo: Caroline Penn

48 Discovery at a little more than 10 km, but the level as a root embedded within the terrain that we few over was rugged, mantle of the earth. rocky, steep and trackless. Te geologic conditions changed Geology of the radically, however, about 5 million years ago when a shift in the ofshore Te Niut Range is a place where plate subduction zones resulted in the immense geological events have appearance of the Cascade Volcanic unfolded. Tectonic peregrinations of Arc. From these changes came fresh crustal fragments in ancient times subduction-induced volcanic activity brought the location of the 2019 accompanying a heating and expan- Nature Vancouver camp close to the sion of the batholith. Tese events contact edge between the ancient triggered a 2000 m uplifting of the Peri-Laurentian terrane of North batholithic mass of granite and the America and some curiously far- rebuilding of the Coast Mountains roving Arctic terranes that crashed that continues today. Te Niut Range into the continent from the west. took part in this re-elevation and, like Tis Arctic terrane complex was what the rest of the Coast Mountains, was built up most of the Coast Moun- still on the rise beneath the Nature tains of present-day B.C. Vancouver camp this past summer. Te eastern side of this Arctic Overlaid upon these incompre- terrane complex underwent a trans- hensively long geo-tectonic sculpt- formation during subduction of ings of the Earth’s crust beneath our plates colliding with North America campsite was an even more recent from the Pacifc during an interval surface etching of the landscape by 175 to 45 million years ago. Te glacial advances and retreats. Te melting rock and volcanism caused whole Niut Range terrain is currently by these tectonic events resulted in a jumble of ice age features: moraines, a huge coalescent igneous batholith cirques, tarns, kettle lakes, glacier of granite that formed a great belt lakes, hanging valleys, remnant gla- of metamorphic rock stretching ciers and broken rock-covered slopes. through the Coast Mountains north Te relative fatness of the area from Vancouver to Prince Rupert hosting the Nature Vancouver camp and beyond. Te granitic mountains may well have been due to the loca- thus formed towered high enough to tion being a glacial kame terrace—a create a rain shadow and dry condi- glacial landform usually shaped like tions eastward. an irregular hill, which is formed After the mountain-building sub- when sediment accumulates in ponds duction ceased 45 million years ago, or lakes trapped between glacier ice. these mountains were subjected to Geographic Setting weathering that reduced their height to mere hills. After 40 million years An unnamed pond that’s the of erosion, the greater mass of the headwaters is granitic Coastal Mountain batho- located fairly near the camp setting. lith resided largely beneath ground Despite all of the camp participants

2019 49 having traveled up the killed during a series of events often watershed to get to the staging area referred to as the . No at Bluf Lake, the Niut Range drain- town was subsequently built on the age fows westward through the surveyed plot and very little of the Coast Mountains to enter the Pacifc road lasted long afterward because Ocean at the head of ford. of the erosive power stemming from Te Niut Range nestles in the heavy coastal precipitation. angle between the two arms of a Next came the prospect, in the “Y” confguration delineated by the 1890s, of running the frst Canadian Homathko River and , transcontinental railway by way of its major tributary. Tese two valleys the Homathko River drainage to link are the primary lowland corridors the Pacifc seaboard of B.C. with the between the Pacifc Ocean and rest of the country that the crown Chilcotin Plateau. Tese routes have colony had been induced to join. Te facilitated the passage of wildlife and Canadian Pacifc Railway did some people between the coast and the preliminary surveys, but these were interior since the last ice age waned. abandoned when was Although, by map, the Homathko selected as the logical destination for can be traced up through Tatlayoko the rail link. Lake and the Mosley up through Te most comprehensive and Bluf Lake to origins apparently very compromising plan for industrial close to , which drains use of the Homathko and Mosley into the Fraser River, there is, in corridors came as grandiose hydro- fact, a clear watershed and no shared electric ventures frst proposed in the source between the Homathko and mid-20th Century that would have Fraser watersheds. seen a series of dams built on the Industrial Development Homathko and its tributaries. Diver- sion via of the waters Great industrial schemes to utilize of the and Chilco Lake the Homathko-Mosley corridors from the Fraser River drainage was for transportation or hydroelectric suggested in order to enhance the generation have been foated or turbine spinning potential of the actually launched since the waterhead above these dams. Gold Rush. Protection of the Niut Range Area Te frst venture began in 1861 when Alfred Waddington set about Te hydroelectric development building a road to access the gold scheme described above was stopped felds. A townsite was surveyed at in the 1990s for a variety of reasons the head of Bute Inlet and 50 km after much review and consider- of crude road was built nearly to able controversy. Te Cariboo Land the confuence of Homathko River Use Plan process as well as the suc- with Mosley Creek. At this point, cessful implementation of several in 1864, the construction came to long-standing park proposals starting an abrupt halt when people were in the 1990s established a basis for

50 Discovery My favourite Niut view. Photo: Phil Edgell protection against regional indus- other nearby lakes appear blue due trial development. In 1994, Ts’il?os to the refraction of light. Our local Provincial Park that encompassed watershed was without a glacier in Chilco Lake at the head of Nemiah its cirque and therefore had been Valley was established. Bishop Creek fushed clean of this fne silt. Despite Provincial Park was added to the the rocky substrate, the bifes proved south side of Ts’il?os in 1995. Te diggable, and everyone managed same year, Big Creek Provincial Park to secure their tents sufciently to was created east of Taseko Lakes. weather the ferce winds and pelting Tis holding was expanded by the rain that, at times, challenged our southern addition of South Chilcotin security and comfort. Mountains Provincial Park in 2001. Exciting frst impressions Te Homathko River-Tatlayoko included fnding an abundance of Protected Area was proclaimed on inky gentian and roseroot around February 14, 1996. the campsite and the discovery of a Nature Vancouver Campsite family of Spotted Sandpipers nearby, which entertained campers for and Nearby Hiking several days. Our actual camp setting contained Tere were no trails visibly scattered scrubby pine trees but was radiating from camp despite there relatively fat with lakeside views being an active fre pit and depos- and very easy access to an endless its of horse dung nearly adjacent water supply. Tis water was clear to the cook tent. Terefore, one of the glacial four that makes some task of Week One campers was to

2019 51 bushwhack and fag hiking routes access into the cirque area with its through the patchy low forest of complex of little lakes. lodgepole and whitebark pines. For hikers who wanted more eleva- Easy trails were soon established tion gain, there were two challenging near the camp. Tese led to a number but readily accessible peaks north of small lakes and bogs scattered of camp. Tese provided rigorous among the moraines and glacial scrambles across tricky slopes covered churnings on the level terrace. Inter- with broken rock. Te rewards for mediate trails were also established enduring the somewhat treacherous in short order to provide upstream passage were the stellar views from

Hiking in the clouds. Photo: Kris Andrews

The crossing. Photo: Caroline Penn

52 Discovery the heights of what became known turned out to be a sloping plateau as Ridge Peak and Snow Patch Peak. or terrace. Lovely views of the From these vantages, hikers could camp from the top of the clifs were spot Tatla Lake and the hills of Itcha enjoyed triumphantly that day. Te Ilgachuz Provincial Park to the north vegetation on the terrace was a mix and gaze east across the seemingly of sod and patches of scrubby willow endless Chilcotin Plateau. Westward, and birch that appeared to have been the 180-degree Coast Mountain pan- uniformly browsed to about waist orama featured the readily identifable height. Ungulate droppings were peaks of Niut Mountain (2,153 m) in abundance. One strange human and Razorback Mountain (3,183 m). feature that day was the discovery Hikers who made it to Snow Patch of what we thought was a hunting Peak (2,600 m) had a chance to view blind. Tis was constructed by exca- the absolutely monstrous Mount vating stones on the hillside to form Waddington (4,019 m), B.C.’s tallest a pit with a rock-wall screen. It was peak, 40 km to the southwest. later learned that this blind was actu- Looking south and east from ally constructed by an expedition Snow Patch Peak, the mountains member during the Atlas of the Breed- beyond Tatlayoko Lake marked an ing Birds of project arc over Chilco Lake in the Nemiah some years ago. Valley, the Taseko Lakes to the South On the far western side of the Chilcotin Range peaks of Ts’il?os, plateau, a view of a small glacier and the South Chilcotin Mountains along with its subtending blue lake Provincial Parks. was awesome. Te problem of the Slightly Further Afeld scree, however, remained outstanding and the descent was uncomfortable Another challenge for the adven- down the horrible broken rock. turous hiker was the ridge of high Te next ascent of Goat Ridge clifs south of camp. Tis feature was masochistically traversed the broken dubbed Goat Ridge when a moving rocks once again. After a good white dot was spotted on it from a ramble about on the plateau, during great distance. Te clifs were obvi- which three small inukshuks were ously unassailable no matter how found and all the fne views were hard we stared at them, so it was reviewed, it was decided to try and decided to skirt around the eastern follow the wildlife access trail for the toe of the ridge and take a run up descent. Tis way the entire scree was from there. avoided and the hikers found them- Te frst attempt to do this led to selves below the rocks on a fairly a rather large group of hikers turning clear trail with tiny rock cairns. Tis back after encountering steep screes Reference of unstable broken rock. A second try by a smaller group Sydney Cannings, et al. 2011. Geology of led to successfully fagging a route British Columbia. Greystone Books. across the broken rock up to what Vancouver. 144 pp.

2019 53 Elly Brok shows her painting. Photo: Sabina Harpe series of cairns led along the contour Hello Highway 3 towards camp and merged with our We think we’re gonna cry own fagged route exactly at the point Bye bye dear camp goodbye at which we had turned to ascend the scree slope three times. Bingo! Our We’ve cleaned the bifes, new, safer route to the top of Goat we’ve cleaned the pots Ridge had been found. We’ve walked in meadows, Camp Entertainment we’ve walked on rocks We’ve made great friendships Aside from the usual after-supper and lived our dreams hike reports, during Week One we As we jumped over enjoyed a couple of social nights, a the babbling streams talent show and an evening of games. Janet Rozanski played ukulele for We love our Nigel and Elly too sing-alongs and organized the Niut Paul, Janet, Sally, the wonderful crew NightinGals, who sang an admirable We stretched our muscles and rendition of Joni Mitchell’s “Circle trimmed our thighs Game”. We all sang the chorus of Challenged the mountains the following, which was written by with many sighs the Dohan sisters to the tune of the Everly Brothers’ “Bye Bye Love”: We also enjoyed a lovely series of readings by Jane Srivastava of excerpts Bye bye Camp Niut from Chris Czajkowski’s book, A Bye bye Nature V Mountain Year—Nature Diary of a

54 Discovery Nightingals sing Circle Game. Photo: Denis Laplante

Wilderness Dweller. It describes the “Don’t do this, I’m able area surrounding her ecotourism site, I know it’s unsafe, what the heck?” Nuk Tesli, northwest of the Nature Vancouver camp near Tweedsmuir Now Nigel is one who is trusted Provincial Park. Selections coincided His camping skills have not rusted with the dates in 2019 when we were He works and he works at camp. Jane also recited “I Go Down Despite having no perks to the Shore”, a poem by Mary Oliver. And he fxes all things Denis Laplante sang “Tere’s a that are busted Wild Boar in Tese Woods”; Teresa Gagné recited “Te Cremation of So to Nigel we show our gratitude Sam McGee”; and Stephen Parting- For his always positive attitude ton read “Portrait From Memory” Our camp is such fun from Beyond the Fringe. It’s not yet all done Margaret Dohan fnished us of Our Nigel is one really great dude with her “Limerick for Nigel”: Stephen has been a member of VHNS/ Tere was a camp manager Peck Nature Vancouver since 1987 and has Whose job it was to recheck attended a smattering of Nature Van- A stepladder on table couver camps.

2019 55 Species Lists—Niut Lakes Camp July 21 to August 4, 2019 and Insect Lists compiled by Teresa Gagné, Judith Holm and Denis Laplante TREES Labrador tea Vaccinium caespitosum, Family PINACEAE, (pine family) dwarf huckleberry Abies lasiocarpa, subalpine fr Vaccinium membranaceum, Picea englemannii, Englemann spruce black huckleberry Pinus contorta var. latifolia, Vaccinium scoparium, grouseberry lodgepole pine Vaccinium uliginosum, bog blueberry Pinus albicaulis, whitebark pine Family SALICACEAE, SHRUBS (willow family) Salix arctica, arctic willow Family BETULACEAE, (birch family) Salix barclayi, Barclay’s willow Betula glandulosa, scrub birch Salix brachycarpa, short-fruited willow Salix commutata, under-green willow Family CUPRESSACEAE, Salix nivalis, dwarf snow willow (cedar family) Salix stolonifera, creeping willow Juniperus communis, common juniper Family SANTALACEAE, Family ELAEAGNACEAE, (sandalwood family) (oleaster family) Arceuthobium americanum, Shepherdia canadensis, American dwarf mistletoe soopolallie/soapberry Family ERICACEAE, (heath family) HERBACEOUS Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, bearberry/kinnikinnik Family ASTERACEAE, (aster family) Cassiope mertensiana, Achillea millefolium, yarrow white mountain-heather Agoseris aurantiaca (var. Chimophyla umbellata, pipsissewa aurantiaca?), orange false-dandelion Empetrum nigrum, crowberry Agoseris glauca var. dasycephala, Kalmia microphylla (syn. polifolia), short-beaked agoseris small bog-laurel Antennaria alpina, alpine pussytoes Phyllodoce empetriformis, Antennaria microphylla (rosea), pink mountain-heather rosy pussytoes Phyllodoce glandulifora, Antennaria pulcherrima, yellow mountain-heather showy pussytoes Phyllodoce x media, hybrid pink/ Antennaria racemosa, yellow mountain heather racemose pussytoes Rhododendron albiforum, Antennaria umbrinella, white rhododendron umber pussytoes Rhododendron groenlandicum, Arnica angustifolia ssp. tomentosa,

56 Discovery Whitebark pine and lodgepole pine scrub. Photo: Caroline Penn

alpine arnica Petasites frigidus var nivalis, Arnica cordifolia, heart-leaved arnica arctic sweet coltsfoot Arnica lanceolata ssp prima, Senecio triangularis, clasping arnica arrow-leaved groundsel Arnica mollis, hairy arnica Solidago multiradiata, Arnica rydbergii, Rydberg’s arnica mountain goldenrod Artemisia norvegica, Tonestus lyallii, Lyall’s serpentweed mountain sagewort Family BORAGINACEAE, Crepis nana, alpine hawksbeard (borage family) Erigeron aureus, golden feabane Myosotis alpestris ssp. asiatica, Erigeron compositus var. glabrus, mountain forget-me-not cut-leaved feabane Erigeron glacialis var. glacialis, Family BRASSICACEAE, subalpine feabane (mustard family) Erigeron humilis, arctic daisy Boechera stricta, uptight suncress Erigeron peregrinus, subalpine feabane Draba aurea, golden draba Hieracium albiforum, white hawkweed Draba novolympica, leeward draba Hieracium gracile, slender hawkweed Family CAMPANULACEAE, Hieracium triste, wooly hawkweed (harebell family) Packera cana, wooly packera Campanula lasiocarpa, Packera paucifora, mountain harebell alpine rayless butterweed

2019 57 Raindrops on lodgepole pine (Pinus Contorta). Photo: Gail Newell

Family CAPRIFOLIACEAE, Family , (valerian family) (stonecrop family) Linnaea borealis, twinfower Rhodiola integrifolia ssp. integrifolia, Valeriana sitchensis, Sitka valerian western roseroot divergens, spreading stonecrop Family CARYOPHYLLACEAE, Sedum lanceolatum var. lanceolatum, (pink family) lance-leaved stonecrop Eremogone capillaris, Sedum lanceolatum var. nesioticum, thread-leaved sandwort lance-leaved stonecrop Silene douglasii, Douglas’ campion Silene noctifora, Family CYPERACEAE, night-fowering catchfy (sedge family) Silene parryii, Parry’s campion Carex aquatilis, water sedge Silene acaulis, moss campion Carex lenticularis var. dolia, Stellaria longipes, tarn sedge long-stalked starwort Carex nigricans, black alpine sedge Carex phaeocephala, dunhead sedge Family CELASTRACEAE, Eriophorum angustifolium, (bittersweet family) narrow-leaved cotton-grass Parnassia fmbriata, fringed grass-of-Parnassus Family ERICACEAE, (heath family) Orthilia secunda, Family CORNACEAE, one-sided wintergreen (dogwood family) Pyrola asarifolia, Cornus unalaschkensis, pink-fowered wintergreen dwarf dogwood

58 Discovery Family FABACEAE, (pea family) Lupinus arcticus, arctic lupine Family GENTIANACEAE, (gentian family) Gentiana glauca, inky gentian Gentianella amarella, northern gentian Gentianella propinqua, four-part gentian Family HYDROPHYLLACEAE, (waterleaf family) Phacelia sericea, silky phacelia Family JUNCACEAE, (rush family) Juncus drummondi, Drummond’s rush Juncus mertensianus, Merten’s rush Luzula parvifora, small-fowered woodrush Family MELIANTHIACEAE, (false hellebore family) ex Liliaceae Veratrum viride, false hellebore Family ONOGRACEAE, (evening primrose family) Bird’s beak lousewort (Pedicularis orni- Chamerion (Epilobium) thorhyncha). Photo: Gail Newell angustifolium, common freweed Pedicularis ornithorhyncha, Chamerion latifolium, river beauty bird’s beak lousewort Family ORCHIDACEAE, Family PLANTAGINACEAE, (plan- (orchid family) tain family) ex Scrophularaceae Platanthera dilatata, Penstemon procerus, fragrant white bog orchid small-fowered penstemon Family OROBANCHACEAE, Veronica beccabunga (syn. (broomrape family) americana), American brooklime Castilleja miniata, Veronica wormskjoldii (syn. alpina), common red paintbrush alpine speedwell Castilleja rhexifolia, Family POACEAE, (grass family) alpine/rosy paintbrush Elymus trachycaulus, Castilleja parvifora var. albida, slender wheatgrass white small-fowered paintbrush Festuca brachyphylla, alpine fescue Pedicularis bracteosa, Festuca saximontana, bracted lousewort Rocky Mountain fescue Pedicularis langsdorfi ssp. arctica, Phleum alpinum, alpine timothy Langsdorf’s lousewort

2019 59 Poa arctica, Arctic bluegrass Luetkea pectinata, partridge-foot Tricetum spicatum, spike tricetum Potentilla glaucophylla, vari-leaved cinquefoil Family POLEMONIACEAE, Potentilla fabellifolia, (phlox family) fan-leaved cinquefoil Phlox difusa, spreading phlox Potentilla gracilis, graceful cinquefoil Polemonium pulcherrimum, Potentilla nivea, snow cinquefoil showy Jacob’s-ladder Potentilla palustris, marsh cinquefoil Family POLYGONACEAE, Potentilla unifora group, (buckwheat family) one-fowered cinquefoil Bistorta vivipara, alpine bistort Rosa acicularis, prickly rose Oxyria digyna, mountain sorrel Rubus arcticus ssp. acaulis, Rumex acetosella, sheep sorrel dwarf nagoonberry Rumex lapponicus, Sanguisorba stipulata, Sitka burnet Lapland mountain sorrel Sibbaldia procumbens, Rumex paucifolius, alpine sorrel creeping Sibbaldia Family PORTULACACEAE, Family SAXIFRAGACEAE, (purslane family) (saxifrage family) Claytonia lanceolata, Leptarrhena pyrolifolia, western spring-beauty leatherleaf saxifrage Saxifraga bronchialis ssp Family RANUNCULACEAE, austromontane, spotted saxifrage (buttercup family) Saxifraga tricuspidata, Anemone drummondii, three toothed saxifrage Drummond’s anemone Micranthes lyallii, Lyall’s saxifrage Anemone multifda, cut-leaved anemone Family TOFIELDIACEAE, (false- Anemone occidentalis, asphodel family) ex Liliaceae western anemone Tofeldia pusilla, Aquilegia formosa, red columbine common false asphodel Caltha leptosepala, Triantha (Tofeldia) glutinosa, white marsh-marigold sticky false-asphodel Ranunculus escholtzii, Family VIOLACEAE, (violet family) mountain buttercup Viola adunca, early blue violet Ranunculus fammula, lesser spearwort Ranunculus pygmaeus, FERNS pygmy buttercup Family WOODSIACEAE, (clif ferns) Thalictrum occidentale, Cystopteris fragilis, fragile fern western meadow-rue Trollius albiforus, globefower HORSETAILS Family ROSACEAE, (rose family) Dryas octopetala, Family EQUISETACEA (horsetails) white mountain-avens Equisetum arvense, common horsetail

60 Discovery CLUBMOSSES FUNGI Family LYCOPODIACEAE Family BOLETACEAE Diaphasiastrum sitchense, Leccinum scabrum Sitka clubmoss (brown birch-bolete) Selaginella wallacei, Family CORTINARIACEAE Wallace’s spikemoss Cortinarius sp. BRYOPHYTES Family SUILLACEAE Leccinium sp., slippery jacks Family Polytrichaceae, (haircap mosses) BUTTERFLIES Polytrichum juniperinum, juniper haircap moss Family LYCAENIDAE (gossamer-winged butterfies) Family Sphagnaceae, (peatmoss) Plebejus idas, northern blue Sphagnum magellanicum, Callophrys polios ssp. obscura, Magellan’s peatmoss hoary elfn LICHENS Family NYMPHALIDAE (brush-footed butterfies) Family CLADONIACEAE Chlosyne whitneyi, rockslide Cladina sp., reindeer lichen sp. checkerspot Cladonia spp., club lichen species Erebia vidleri, Vidler’s alpine Family LECANORALES Family PAPILONIDAE (swallowtails Lepraria neglecta, grey dust lichen and parnassians) Family PARMELIACEAE , Letharia vulpina, common wolf lichen Rocky Mtn parnassian

Family PELTIGERACEAE OTHER INSECTS Peltigera sp., pelt lichen Order Orthoptera Family RHIZOCARPACEAE Caelifera sp., grasshopper Rhizocarpon geographicum, map lichen Family CHRYSOMELIDAE (leaf beetles) Family ICMADOPHILACEAE Chrysomela sp., leaf beetle Thamnolia sp., whiteworm lichen Family PROPHALANGOSIDAE Family UMBILICAIACEAE (grigs) Umbilicaria hyperborea, Cyphoderris monstrosa, great grig blistered rocktripe Umbilicaria torrefacta, Family TENTHREDINIDAE punctured rocktripe (common sawfies) Pontania sp., willow gall sawfy Family TELOSCHISTACEAE Xanthoria sp., orange leaf lichen

2019 61 BIRDS Family Scolopacidae Actitis macularius, Spotted Sandpiper Compiled by Gail Kenner Tringa melanoleuca, Greater Yellowlegs Taxonomic order and nomenclature follow the American Ornithologists’ Family Laridae Union Checklist of North American Larus sp., Gull sp. Birds, 7th edition. Family Gaviidae Family Anatidae Gavia immer, Common Loon Bucephala islandica, Barrow’s Goldeneye Family Accipitridae Family Phasianidae Aquila chrysaetos, Golden Eagle Falcipennis canadensis, Spruce Grouse Circus hudsonicus, Northern Harrier Lagopus leucura, Haliaeetus leucocephalus, Bald Eagle White-tailed Ptarmigan Buteo swainsoni, Swainson’s Hawk Dendragapus obscurus, Dusky Grouse Family Tyrannidae Family Trochilidae Contopus cooperi, Selasphorus rufus, Rufous Hummingbird Olive-sided Flycatcher Selasphorus calliope, Family Corvidae Calliope Hummingbird Perisoreus canadensis, Jay

Spruce Grouse, female. Photo: Kris Andrews

62 Discovery Nucifraga Columbiana, Passerculus sandwichensis, Clark’s Nutcracker Savannah Sparrow Corvus corax, Common Raven Melospiza lincolnii, Lincoln’s Sparrow Family Alaudidae Family Parulidae Eremophila alpestris, Horned Lark Parkesia noveboracensis, Northern Waterthrush Family Hirundinidae Geothlypis tolmiei, Tachycineta thalassina, MacGillivray’s Warbler Violet-green Swallow Setophaga petechia, Yellow Warbler Family Paridae Setophaga coronata, Poecile gambeli, Mountain Chickadee Yellow-rumped Warbler Cardellina pusilla, Wilson’s Warbler Family Sittidae Sitta canadensis, Red-breasted Nuthatch MAMMALS Family Regulidae Compiled by Gail Kenner Regulus calendula, Taxonomic order and nomenclature Ruby-crowned Kinglet follow E-Fauna BC. Family Turdidae Family Bovidae Myadestes townsendi, Oreamnos americanus, Mountain Goat Townsend’s Solitaire Family Cervidae Catharus guttatus, Hermit Thrush Odocoileus hemionus, Mule Deer Turdus migratorius, American Robin Oreamnos americanus, Family Motacillidae mountain goat Anthus rubescens, American Pipit Family Mustelidae Family Fringillidae Mustela frenata, Long-tailed Weasel Leucosticte tephrocotis, Neovison vison, American Mink Gray-crowned Rosy-Finch Family Ochotonidae Family Passerellidae Ochotona princeps, American Pika Spizella passerine, Chipping Sparrow Family Sciuridae Junco hyemalis, Dark-eyed Junco Marmota caligata, Hoary Marmot heard Zonotrichia leucophrys, Neotamias amoenus, White-crowned Sparrow Yellow-pine Chipmunk Zonotrichia atricapilla, Tamiasciurus hudsonicus, Red squirrel Golden-crowned Sparrow Zonotrichia albicollis, White-throated Family ZAPODIDAE Sparrow (rare for this area) Zapus princeps, western jumping-mouse

2019 63 Birdwatcher as Landscape Don’t mind me I’m just part of the furniture by Gail Kenner

THERE IS MUCH to be said for sitting juncos bumbled around me, trying quietly beside a stretch of stream and out their wings and following adults becoming “landscape”. in a largely futile attempt to get fed. At Niut Lakes camp this summer, Rufous Hummingbirds buzzed the short rife connecting the Swim through occasionally. Yellow-rumped and Water lakes was ideal—I could Warblers of all ages and plumages sit on the edge with sun and wind at were constantly fy-catching. my back and a panoply of life spread Te highlight of the streamside before me. site was the family of Spotted Sand- Once I settled in, it took, at most, pipers — one vigilant adult and a half-hour for me to be accepted by three fufy/scrufy chicks sporting the birds as and generally ignored. spiky dark crown feathers like punk Mammals also lost any concern for me hairdos. At times, they fed quite close as a yellow-pine chipmunk scampered by. During Week One Camp sand- just in front of me and across the piper chicks morphed into two sleek stream, bouncing from rock to rock. fedglings; the third chick fedged, Spotted Sandpipers, Ameri- and all four birds were gone before can Pipits, Mountain Chickadees, the end of Week Two Camp. Yellow-rumped Warblers (predomi- Other notable streamside encoun- nantly Audubon’s), Savannah Spar- ters: a Northern Waterthrush, a rows and Dark-eyed Juncos were all Hermit Trush, a Greater Yellowlegs, breeding in the camp area, with the a White-throated Sparrow (unusual), last two species especially abundant. a few Lincoln’s Sparrows and a fock Just-fedged chickadees, warblers and of Chipping Sparrows.

Niut lakes Spotted Sandpiper. Photo: Melanie Marchand

64 Discovery After Supper at Camp: Meet the Kafers by Cathy Walker

WEEK TWO SUMMER CAMPERS in the the Camel Mountains. Tey climbed Niut Range were privileged to hear the main peak and the very difcult Esther Kafer describe her moun- “Camel Tower”. taineering expeditions with her Another goal was Royal Peak but husband, Martin. it proved to be too difcult to reach Martin and Esther helped to on this trip. On the way, wading over organize three climbing trips in the Five Finger Creek the team took area of our summer camp, the Niut their pants of to keep them dry as Range, in August 1967, July 1972 it was hip deep, fast and cold. One and July–August, 1980. Each time climber was from New Zealand and their goal was to fnd the best routes this was evidently their normal tech- and get to the top of mountains, nique. On the return there was a big most of which were frst ascents. rain storm overnight which made Martin organized the logistics the planned route over a steep glacier and approaches and Esther orga- too dangerous because of the falling nized the food for the groups. She rocks loosened by the downpour. Te described going around the wonder- New Zealander put in a piton and ful food foor at Woodward’s with the they rappelled down using a (thank- manager to choose the food which fully former) rappelling technique was then put into special boxes to with a rope over the shoulder and be sent north. Te boxes had to ft between the legs, called “Duelfer through the drop hole in the Beaver Sitz” (no harnesses back then). airplane to be dropped onto glaciers Esther, already soaking wet, wound for pickup by the mountaineers. up upside down, swinging back and Te frst trip in 1967 was with forth over swirling water. Fortunately, nine people, two of whom were a she lived to tell us this account. local couple from the Chilcotin, In 1972, this time a group of only whose canoe was used to cross three, they made another attempt to Mosley Creek. After a two-day climb Royal Peak. Te daring Wil- bush-whack they fnally got up to derness Airlines pilot few them from the Rusty Glacier where they found Horn Lake and, after the airdrop, the food boxes had landed safely. managed to land them on Mosley Esther would later use a rock-walled Creek, while the plane was tied to a cooking area to prepare their meals. tree, and then successfully took of Tey climbed the 10,000-foot peaks again. Using a compass and a lot of of Mt. Rusty and Trident and the hard efort, the group found the air east peak of Pagoda, which at that drop of the food boxes on the glacier. time was the highest unclimbed peak Unfortunately, there was a big snow in the Coast Range and was later storm that lasted three days so the named “Plummer Peak”. Another group holed up. Esther managed part of the trip was the exploration of to read a 700-page book. Tey then

2019 65 Esther and Martin Kafer at Niut Camp. Photo: Kris Andrews walked in extremely deep snow and down into the slot. Using his fash- fnally managed the frst ascent of light he roped up, climbed down and Royal Peak (9,500 ft). Moving camp retrieved it. down, they found beautiful meadows Getting back from climbing these full of wild fowers and then climbed peaks was extremely taxing as the Success Mountain. Tat wasn’t hike out took three long days (no enough, of course, so their next chal- plane to pick them up of course). lenge was Hanging Peak, a long way For both trips, the people of the from their air drop camp. Walking Chilcotin were very helpful and across deep snow on glaciers full of friendly, letting the climbers park crevasses they reached the summit their cars on their properties, unlock- over some rocks, the last frst ascent ing gates for them, repairing bridges, of this trip. At three am after a putting them up in their houses, 21-hour hike they were fnally back letting them shower and feeding at their tents. them dinner. On the long walk-out they had to Te third trip in 1980 was orga- lower the heavy packs by rope over a nized by the camp committee of crevasse and the pack of their fellow the BC Mountaineering Club. Tis climber came loose and fell deep was a similar set-up to the Nature

66 Discovery Niut Camp Week One participants. Photo: Phil Edgell

Vancouver summer camp, fying in Full reports of the frst two expedi- from Tatlayoko Lake using White tions are available in the Canadian Saddle, 37 climbers, 2 cooks, a cook Alpine Club Journal and the third tent and a dining tent. Going in on trip is reported in the BC Moun- the frst fight, Martin found a beau- taineering Club Report. Te Kafers tiful spot to be used as base camp. brought with them these reports and Martin and Esther did three more a number of fascinating photographs frst ascents. from these expeditions, including A grizzly bear was spotted on one of the climbers crossing a raging a glacier, having a grand old time, Mosley Creek with their backpacks sliding down the glacier on his on and in their underpants. behind and jumping over small Oh, did Martin and Esther ever crevasses. When confronted with a climb Niut Mountain which we saw crevasse too wide to jump across, the from near our summer camp? “No,” grizzly did what any sensible moun- they said, “it was too far from our taineer would do, he thought about it, base and had already been climbed”. turned aside and found a way around. In December Esther and Martin In addition to seeing much snow, gave their son, Tom, and their daugh- ice and rock and beautiful meadows ter, Kathy, a nice Christmas present with fowers on their trips, the Kafers of the trip with them to this sum- saw many mountain goats on these mer’s Nature Vancouver summer three trips. Sadly, during our Week camp. It was a pleasure meeting them Two summer camp with Nature Van- as well. couver we saw none, though evidence was found in the form of hoof prints (More information on the achieve- and hair. ments of Esther and Martin Kafer is Over the three expeditions, the available through website search by Kafers did thirteen frst ascents. their names.)

2019 67 Ode to Parnassus by Sabina Harpe

Ode to Parnassus Queen of the high, unobtrusive and radiant lining rivulets and flling mossy dips.

Named after sacred mountain in Greece So distant from this new world mountain path.

Fringed grass of Parnassus Proudly ofering gifts From a bowl of heart shaped leaves Each stem straight and strong, Shooting fve petals Laced, and delicate Around an oval mound.

Ode to you, Queen of the heights I tower above with giant foot Pausing, I am touched by your wild and beauty-flled being.

Fringed grass of Parnassus (Parnassia fmbriata). Photo: Gail Newell

68 Discovery