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Shake It Up, Baby!

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Shake It Up, Baby! THE RENEGADE ISSUE THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY SEPHORA AMERICAS CEO DAVID SULITEANU SHAKE IT UP, BABY! WITH MODERN BEAUTY BRITT MAREN AND HIS RETAIL DREAM TEAM, MARGARITA HOW SEPHORA IS REDEFINING ARRIAGADA, JULIE BORNSTEIN, SHARON ROTHSTEIN AND MARY HERALD. BEAUTY RETAILING THE FIREBRAND OF THE FRAGRANCE WORLD ENDURANCE TEST: INDIES FACE A NEW REALITY BBB1209-PG01-Cover.a;10.inddB1209-PG01-Cover.a;10.indd 1 88/29/12/29/12 33:15:15 PPMM MAKEUP ARTISTRY BY CHARLOTTE WILLER. ©2012 MAYBELLINE LLC. 2 WWDBEAUTY INC FEATURES 18 Forging a New Model A laser-like focus on how, when, why and where women buy beauty products has catapulted CONTENTS Sephora to the forefront of the retail ranks. 24 In Development A quantitative look at the burgeoning beauty markets in South and Central America. 26 No Bed of Roses Retailers may be bemoaning the dearth of innovative new indie brands, but as Molly Prior reports, survival for smaller brands is full of thorny issues. 30 Agent Provocateur When it comes to changing people’s perceptions about perfumery, Christophe Laudamiel is as outspoken as he is passionate. DEPARTMENTS CORNER OFFICE 6 The Drive to Thrive Superstar hairstylist Frédéric Fekkai embraces his competitive streak as he continues to build his commercial empire and empower his team. 8 Black Book: Aerin Lauder The ever chic Aerin Lauder shares her go-to places for business and pleasure. 9 Aha Moment: Vera Strubi As Thierry Mugler’s Angel celebrates its 20th anniversary, its creative force, Vera Strubi, reveals the project’s defining moments. BEAUTY BULLETIN 10 Bold Strokes Reveling in the tactile pleasures of fall makeup. 12 Launch Window Top products launching in September. CONSUMER CHRONICLES 14 Shopping in the Heart of Wal-Mart Country Mary McDonald hits her neighborhood beauty hubs in Northwest Arkansas. 16 Shopper Stalker Who’s buying what—and why— in White Plains, N.Y. MISC 32 Courting Success One-on-one with Mama Mio’s cofounder and chief executive, Sian Sutherland. ON THE COVER: Sephora’s David Suliteanu, Margarita Arriagada, Sharon Rothstein, Julie Bornstein and Mary Herald photographed exclusively for WWD Beauty Inc by Je! Riedel. Model: Britt Maren at Women Management. Hair by Kevin Woon at Modern beauty Jed Root. Makeup by Jake Bailey at The Wall Group. Britt Maren Styled by Isabel Dupré at The Wall Group. Set Design by Lisa wears Dior. Gwilliam at Jed Root. Gown by Hervé Léger by Max Azria. PHOTO BY JEFF RIEDEL BY PHOTO WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year a"er the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 204, NO. 52. SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks a"er receipt of order. Address additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630- which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, 5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive O!cer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating O!cer & Chief Financial O!cer; Jill Visit us online at www.wwd.com. 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FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post O!ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. %%3*72&DLQGG 30 ©2012 P&G HYDRATING WRINKLE REDUCTION without the drying effect of a $200 prescription retinoid.* REGENERIST INTENSIVE REPAIR TREATMENT A $200 retinoid treatment can leave your skin dry. Our retinoid formula delivers intensive hydration that reduces the look of wrinkles without the dryness. For use under your facial SPF moisturizer. *Results not equal to a retinoid prescription. OLAY. CHALLENGE WHAT’S POSSIBLE.® 4 WWDBEAUTY INC EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD EDITOR’S LETTER PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR O Pioneers! JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR avid Suliteanu is an unlikely revolutionary. A retail veteran, he FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR BELISA SILVA BEAUTY MARKET EDITOR, MASS began his career at Bullocks in Los Angeles and steadily worked JAYME CYK EDITORIAL ASSISTANT his way up the department store ranks to the position of vice LISA KELLY COPY EDITOR chairman and director of stores at Macy’s East. He then spent ART two years as group president of diversified businesses at The BARBARA SULLIVAN ART DIRECTOR DHome Depot before joining Sephora in 2000. Under his tenure as president CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), and chief executive officer, the number of stores has quintupled and sales CYNTHIA MARTENS (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), have grown by a factor of 14. Suliteanu’s strategy basically lays in forgetting MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) everything he learned as a department store retailer, making him the perfect PHOTO choice for the cover of our Renegade issue, in which we’re celebrating those CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR who have pioneered new ways to do business—and won. JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR ERIN FITZGERALD STUDIO MANAGER “The predominant language spoken by retailers was a brand language. EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR It was developed by the department store approach, which was brand- ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, centric and continues to be brand-centric today,” Suliteanu told me over THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA PHOTOGRAPHERS the course of my reporting for “Forging a New Model.” “Our approach from CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS the beginning was never brand-centric. It was always client-centric.” That RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, BEN HASSETT, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, MICHAEL NAGLE, approach has led Sephora to implement some unorthodox—and extremely JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO successful—methods for selling beauty products, be it by singling out a mere six products from thousands as the month’s must-buys or setting up in-store BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING PAUL JOWDY VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHER, WWD play stations where patrons can do anything from manicures to makeovers. PAMELA DANIELS PUBLISHER, BEAUTY INC Suliteanu’s current goal is equally audacious: to become the number-one JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR COURTNEY HAZIRJIAN WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER prestige beauty retailer in America. Find out the strategy he and his senior ODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS management team have devised to achieve just that on page 18. CHRISTOPHER SANTORELLA BEAUTY SALES ASSISTANT Sephora was instrumental in the indie-brand boom of the late Nineties. MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES JANET MENAKER EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Such brands brought energy, youth and animation to beauty counters EMILY CORTEZ DIRECTOR, CREATIVE SERVICES across the country.
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