American Guides Association MOUNTAIN bulletin Fall 2009 | A Publication of the American Mountain Guides Association | amga.com

2009 AMGA Annual Meeting laughter and holding back tears. The entire crowd rose when Doug asked those willing to stand by Main Event in Memory of Craig Luebben Silvia and Giulia as they deal with their loss to stand in support. “I laughed, I cried, it was better than Cats.” I’ve personally never seen Cats, but Margaret’s reaction to Malcolm from Trango brought with him a set of Big The Main Event – Presented by W.L. Gore – at our 2009 Annual Meeting leads me to believe that we Bros with an image of Giulia, by Jeremy Collins, put on a good show. Being a first-timer, I have nothing to compare it to, but it’s safe to say, I walked etched into them. The first set in existence. His away from the nights festivities rather humbled. The guiding community is tight. Perhaps family is a intention was to auction them to the highest better description. bidder to raise a bit of money for Giulia’s College The tension that permeated the meetings leading up to The Main Event was promptly released at Education Fund. How the auction unfolded was all the door. Greeted by a running slideshow of Craig Luebben, the discussion moved from access, at once inspiring and a bit unexpected. Opening prerequisites and membership dues to stories of Craig’s exploits and whether or not Adam Fox would bid was their retail value of $500. The bidding win the tent in the raffle for a third year in a row. A large quantity of excellent beer from Upslope gradually increased a couple hundred dollars at a Brewing provided the social lubricant and grub from Pasta Jay’s helped offset the effects of the first time to $1000, $1500 then things got serious. Two “real” beer most had, had in nearly a week. Everyone mingled, purchased raffle tickets, checked out thousand dollars, $2500 all they way up to $4000! some items that Arc’Teryx, Five Ten, Gore, and Leave No Trace had on display, and made their A huge thank you and congratulations goes out to bids on all the fabulous silent auction items. John Race for his winning bid. With dinner complete and the silent auction ended and all items paid for, things started to ramp up. Jack Tackle closed out the evening with an inspiring More adult beverages were consumed, Adam Fox did not win the tent in the raffle (but he did win slideshow of some pretty amazing climbs in Alaska. one in the silent auction), Keith Garvey was schooled by Evan Stevens in a push-up competition for Amazing photography and Jack’s subtle wit kept an Arc’Teryx harness, and Betsy wowed everyone with her mad throwing skills as she hucked several everyone engaged ‘til the very last slide. items into the crowd. By all looks and appearances, a good time was had The awards presentation was the highlight of the evening. Rob Hess kicked things off introducing the by everyone. By nights end the coolers were empty Exam Graduates from 2009. Special mention must be given to Adam George, Ben Mitchell, Julia and only 1 serving of pasta was left. Nearly $5500 Niles, Jonathan Spitzer and Joe Stock for achieving their IFMGA Certification. Next up was Marc was raised for the AMGA and another $800 for the Chauvin presenting a somewhat unexpected award. Marc seems to have an opinion on everything and Craig Luebben Memorial Scholarship Fund, not a burning desire to share those opinions. In the past, Marc held a very strong opinion that certain cer- to mention $4000 for Giulia’s College Education tifications must be earned, by the book…no exceptions. So when Marc announced that Tom Hargis Fund and another $1000 for the Craig Luebben had achieved IFMGA Certification everyone understood they were witnessing a very special moment. Memorial Fund. Henry Beyer presented Alain Comeau with the Outstanding Guide of the Year Award. I think I spoke I want to personally thank everyone for attending to Alain at least 3 times in my first week at the AMGA as he called to check and re-check that he truly and look forward to seeing you all next year in was the recipient of the award. Congratulations Alain, the award was well deserved. Boulder. We had some very special guests in attendance to receive both The Presidents and The Lifetime Maintain. Achievement in Guiding Awards. Presented respectively by Margaret Wheeler and Dick Jackson, Josh Harrod Silvia and Giulia Luebben graciously accepted both awards in Memory of Craig Luebben. Silvia Membership Director thanked the community for their support and reminded everyone that sleeping in her backyard was still an option. Several of Craig’s friends shared stories about their times spent with Craig. Doug Nidever, Keith Garvey, John Race, Joey Vallone and Malcolm Daly had everyone bursting with

In this issue o President’s Corner — 3 o ED Corner — 4 o TD Corner — 5 o Program Director Corner — 6

American Mountain Guides Association AMGA Board of Directors

EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE Maragert Wheeler | President Majka Burhardt North Bend, WA Boulder, CO 206.818.7947 970.290.7822 [email protected] [email protected]

John Race | Vice President Clint Cook Leavenworth, WA Ouray, CO 509.548.5823 970.290.7822 [email protected] [email protected]

Evan Stevens | Secretary Adam Fox Garibaldi Highlands, BC Canada Hendersonville, NC 801.212.3438 888.284.8433 [email protected] [email protected]

Scott Soden | Treasurer Keith Garvey Denver, CO Boulder, CO 303.242.5758 720.221.8302 [email protected] [email protected]

Rob Hess | Technical Director Dick Jackson Jackson, WY Aspen, CO 307.733.4979 877.790.2777 [email protected] [email protected]

Peter Gould | Legal Counsel Kyle Lefkoff Denver, CO Boulder, CO 303.894.6176 303.444.6950 [email protected] [email protected]

Jim Pearson | Legal Counsel Marty Molitoris Denver, CO Rosendale, NY 303.478.1115 845-658-3094 [email protected] [email protected]

Matt Brooks | Historian Dale Remsberg San Francisco, CA Louisville, CO 510.797.7980 303.818.8009 [email protected] [email protected]

Martin Volken North Bend, WA 206-525-4425 [email protected]

John Winsor Boulder, CO 303.579.9227 [email protected] AMGA Mountain Guides Association PO Box 1739 | Boulder, CO 80306 | 303.271.1277 fax

NEWSLETTER DEADLINE READ THIS DISCLAIMER! The Mountain Bulletin is Published in February, The AMGA, its officers and employees, authors, editors, artists and volunteers assume no responsibility or May, August, November. The next newsletter will liability for accuracy, effectiveness, or safety of any technique or advice described in this publication. It is be published on February 25, 2010. Deadlines for the responsibility of the individual climber or guide to investigate technical techniques and evaluate them all submissions in 2010, including advertising are: for safety and applicability. Januray 9th (winter issue) April 10th (spring issue) July 10th (summer issue) October 9th (fall issue). NEWSLETTER CONTRIBUTORS Betsy Novak is the AMGA Executive Director NATIONAL OFFICE STAFF Henry Beyer is the AMGA Program Director and a Certified Single Instructor Executive Director | Betsy Novak Josh Harrod is the AMGA Membership Director Program Director | Henry Beyer Ed Crothers is the AMGA Accreditation Director & Instructor Program Director as well as a Certified Membership Director | Josh Harrod Rock Instructor and SPI Provider Accreditation Director | Ed Crothers Margaret Wheeler is President of the AMGA, an IFMGA Guide and an instructor for the AMGA Climbing Instructor Program Director | Ed Crothers Rob Hess serves as the Technical Director of the AMGA. He is IFMGA certified and is the senior guide/owner of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides Accountant | Asha Nagda Photo Credits: Mark Houston, Dick Jackson, Michael Silitch, Margaret Wheeler 2 AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com president’s CORNER by Margaret Wheeler

Hello Everyone, Greetings from sunny we are beginning to work through some of the the national implementation we cannot yet day in mid-November, the time of year when core stumbling blocks we face. The round table rely on any single energy source. We need a it is almost the end of climbing season, almost meeting was a great forum for both concerns combination. the beginning of skiing season. This November and ideas; here is a small sample of some of the questions: By analogy, access in the US is so complicated I am focused on writing about the events of last that to meet the needs of American guides that month, the amazing and intense Annual meeting we need to have more than one solution. Even we had in Moab, Utah. In this issue you’ll hear “Why not create a network of guide services to more importantly, our multiple solutions must from Betsy, Josh, Henry, Ed and Rob about develop opportunities for guest guiding?” fit together and work together as part of a larger different aspects of the meeting; I’ll focus on the plan. As a board, we have agreed that the CGF is round table and the issue of access in the US. “What other options have we looked in to a part of the solution for the short term, and as First, I’d like to say a big Thank You to everyone for the short term? Is the CGF the best such we need to support its restructure so that that made the trip to Moab – we had a great solution we have?” it can be set up for success and benefit as many turnout for the fun events, and even more certified guides as possible. At the same time, we impressively we had over 40 people attend the “We all have strong common ground – have before us the task of creating the long view, Board meeting and over 70 people attend the what are the real stumbling blocks and devoting resources towards improving access round table! I can’t say enough how much I towards working together?” in the US on a federal and state level. appreciate everyone taking the time to listen, ask The Board of Directors meeting was a long day questions, and get involved in the meetings. I “How can we create a level playing fi eld for of board work, and we had 45 people sitting in hope those of you that attended came away with credential-based guiding in the US?“ on the meeting. It was a productive session, with a better understanding of our organization and information on progress from various aspects of a better connection to the community we are “What is the fi nancial and legal the organization, a solid financial report, and the so lucky to be a part of. For those of you that landscape that we are dealing with consideration of the AMGA-CGF proposal. The missed it, I hope we can convey the core issues as guides in this country?” discussion for this proposal became an excellent and information in this newsletter and via our continuation of the round table session, and electronic correspondence. before closing we decided as a board to send the At the round table session we had 75 people To answer these and other questions, our plan proposal back to committee for revisions, and from all over the country, and we structured the is to generate a series of Frequently Asked to consider it again via conference call in late session to give an opportunity for information Questions (FAQ’s) and answers. These will be November. built as the dialog progresses, and will be posted exchange and a question-and-answer session. Stay tuned – there is so much going on at the To begin, I gave a summary of the work that on the AMGA website and sent out via email correspondence to the membership. For those AMGA, and there is so much still to do. I hope has been done by both organizations in the past you will all stay in touch, keep connected, ask 6 months. Then Scott Schell, the ED of the of you who attended the round table, thank you once again for your time and questions; for questions and seek out answers. Have a great CGF, gave an explanation of the proposal for December! the restructure of the CGF and place within the those who were not present and for those with AMGA’s work on access. We then opened the questions still remaining, I hope the FAQ’s will All the best, floor to questions. The session that followed was help to increase your understanding of the issues Margaret characterized by a wide variety of perspectives and solutions we are examining. and concerns; we heard from new guides Our work for access must happen in a entering the program, seasoned guides or guide combination of ways, service owners, and folks from all over - the especially in the short northeast, the southeast, and the west. term. As I see it, our The CGF proposal gave us an excellent starting situation is analogous point for discussion of some of the specifics of to the question of our the difficult issues on the table. At the core, we national energy policy. are framing the discussion around the following In the US we use oil, question: how should the AMGA work to gas, coal...and we are improve access in the short term, and the long adding or increasing term? Through the process of reevaluating the use of solar, wind, the AMGA-CGF relationship, it has become nuclear and alternative increasingly clear to me, to Betsy, and to the fuels. In preparing for Board that we need to create and develop a long- the long term, we may term vision and plan for access in the US. The plan to be free of fossil CGF fits in as part of this plan that deals with fuels, but until we have the issue in the short term, and in its evolution the technology and AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com 3 ince the last Mountain Bulletin will be responsible for managing the Provider Kyle and Cindy Lefkoff have committed article was published a lot of change Pool, screening provider pool applicants, $2,000 to help establish this fund. The AMGA has happened in the AMGA. We have authorizing and denying exemption from is grateful for their support and the support hired a new Accountant, Membership course requests of both the and of those who contributed at the Annual Director, and starting in 2010 we Single Pitch Instructor Programs. Meeting and asks that all members contribute Swill have a fourth full-time employee on staff, I am happy to say our numbers are back on to the fund in whatever way is attainable to a Climbing Instructor Program Director. Our track. May reports showed a 50K shortfall each party. fi nancial situation has rebounded and we are from where we were last year. Today, I I am excited to welcome Martin Volken, Marty back on track with where we were this time can proudly report only a $2K difference Molitoris, and Kyle Lefkoff to the AMGA Board last year. Our 2008 audit was completed and between 2008 and 2009. I feel this is a of Directors. I am highly confi dent that the 2010 budget prepared. Two new memorial great achievement considering the economic special qualities and skills each brings to the scholarships have been created to honor the climate. We can attribute the majority of this table will help the AMGA further its mission lives of three respected guides, and fi nally, fi nancial stabilization to a proliferation in and attain new heights. we bid farewell to a most respected board rock and alpine program enrollment. member as two new elected members and In closing, as we continue to move forward one new appointed Professional Director took Membership is on track as well. While we into 2010 it has become ever more apparent their seats during the October meeting. are still showing a $3K shortfall in Certifi ed that the AMGA must and will address the Guide membership dues, IFMGA, CWI, SPI and access issue that is at the forefront of all I would like to take a moment to welcome Associate member dues are up by 32%. our livelihoods and the profession as a Josh Harrod and Asha Nagda to the AMGA The 2008 audit is complete and shows a clean whole. After much discussion among the team. As the new Membership Director membership, the board, and professional and Accountant both Josh and Asha bring report with only a few managerial suggestions from the auditors. After thorough review advisors it seems the AMGA needs to refocus a wealth of experience and talent to our its attention and come up with a sound association. the AMGA Board of Directors has approved the 2010 budget and we are ready to start plan for addressing the short and long-term In direct response to the growth among the planning for the upcoming year. issues around access. Much headway has Single Pitch and Climbing Wall Instructor been made and insight gained thanks to the Programs I have decided to bring on a full- Two new scholarships have been created to constructive comments from our membership time employee to manage these programs in honor the lives of three professional guides, at the Annual Meeting and from the survey house. Ed Crothers has accepted this position Doug Parker, Roger Baxter-Jones and Craig results. The plan has yet to be unveiled to the and will now have two titles, Accreditation Luebben. Contributions for both scholarship membership but when the time is right the Director and Climbing Instructor Program funds will be deposited into the restricted AMGA will notify its members of its’ new and Director. Both Discipline Coordinators AMGA General Memorial Fund and ear marked well-defi ned intentions have done an exceptional job of managing accordingly to track interest. Both have curriculum development, overseeing the been set up in perpetuity with the hopes processing of course paperwork, and of building a solid enough endowment to communicating with and providing training eventually offer a full-tuition scholarship for provider pool members, but the programs from both funds. The Craig Luebben Memorial have grown to the point where it is unfair Scholarship will not be offered until 2011 and unsustainable to rely on the volunteer because we are working on growing the efforts of Joe Lentini and Adam Fox. The principle so enough interest is gained to new Climbing Instructor Program Director substantiate a partial-tuition scholarship.

ED Corner by Betsy Novak

4 AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com TD corner by Rob Hess

Autumn in the desert, such a fine A Will adding a new course (MPI) of similar 3: RGC/AE time! The Annual Meeting was, as one might nature to something we already have (RIC) • Complete RIC expect of such an event scheduled in Moab, great only further confuse members and the general • Documentation of completion of RIC evalu- fun and well attended. We had quite the posse of public? ation recommendations guides hanging in Indian Creek. In particular, on B In adding this course, what will become of an • Climb and guide up to 5.10+ at the time of one day we had lots of folks testing themselves on already successful program, the RIC and Rock the course (changed from 5.10c) “Big Baby” (classic off-width in Indian Creek) in Instructor Exam (RIE)? • Since completing the RIC: honor of Craig Luebben. – 20 days of multi-pitch III or lon- C As well, what will become of the Rock ger Autumn is also a time when we have the Techni- Instructor certification and the folks who have – 10 trad routes rated 5.10+ or harder cal Committee (TC) meeting and so it is a time gone down this path? (changed 10c to 10+) in which we look at many things in the AMGA – 10 grade IV or harder on resume, 5 of training and certification program in great detail. D Is modifying the RIC, or in other words re- ducing the level of climbing expected, a good which must be between RIC and RGC/ I have a number of things to discuss and reiterate. AE IT IS ABSOLUTELY VITAL THAT YOU ALL idea? READ, UNDERSTAND AND PASS AROUND We the members of the TC have debated this With these improvements to the program the THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION! So much issue for well over a year and decided that it was AMGA office would like to announce an incen- of the misunderstandings and misinformation we time to put this issue to rest at this past TC meet- tive program for current AMGA Certified Rock become aware of at the AMGA could be avoided ing, one way or another. With 12 of 15 members Instructors that are considering pursuing Rock if folks would simply read the information put present to help the AMGA with the decision, we Guide Certification. We are pleased to announce out there for them. were able to come to a unanimous decision. The that we will be offering a 10% discount on following is where the program will proceed: AMGA Rock Guide Courses and Rock Guide I. As many of you know, we have been having Exams for current AMGA Rock Instructors discussions on where we would like certain A The standard for the Rock Instructor course through to 31st Dec 2011. This discount cannot aspects of our rock program to progress. With and exam will be modified, individuals com- be combined with other AMGA discounts i.e the Climbing Wall Instructor (CWI) program and ing to the course and exam will be expected employee discount for Accredited Programs. the Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) program, we to guide and climb on the course and exam at have seen a need to better fill the gap between solid 5.9. Folks will still be required to have The following three subjects have already the instructor and guide’s track in the rock 5.10 routes on their resume. We will not cre- been discussed multiple times in AMGA program. For many guides, living in such areas as ate a separate Multi Pitch instructor course. newsletters. I think it is important to the northeast, southeast and even in some areas B We have modified the prerequisites for the reiterate these items and to explain how of the west, the terrain they instruct and guide on RIC, RIE and RGC to reflect this change. they will work. is less demanding than the classic rock guide ter- Note that the standards and prerequisites for rain. As such, the rock guide credential is often entering the Rock Guide track are essentially II. The Aspirant Exam as a part of the advanced difficult and or unrealistic for them to achieve. the same. The changes are as follows: courses has been in operation since 2007. Most Additionally, there are many folks that found 1: RIC individuals who come to their final exams in the the climbing standard unwieldy for the type of • Climb and guide solid 5.9 at the time of various disciplines have taken an Aspirant Exam, programs they were involved in. In an effort to the course but not all. In the case of individuals who took better incorporate and or attract such guides and • 5 yrs. experience their advanced courses previous to the Aspirant instructors to become involved in the AMGA, • 50 different multi-pitch trad routes program, we have allowed such individuals to be we have been looking at ways we might alter our – 10 of which are grade III (changed tested on the Aspirant Exam items during their programs to get such individuals involved while from 5) final exam. This method of operation is set to not compromising the overall nature of our top – Grade IV expectation eliminated expire as of 2010. This means that all individuals level programs. – 10 routes 5.10a or harder on resume who took courses previous to the Aspirant Exam We have toyed with adding yet another program, 2: RIE program will now be required to take an Aspirant this was referred to as the Multi-Pitch Instructor • Documentation of completion of RIC Exam before enrolling in an exam. Those without (MPI). In thinking of this we considered dropping evaluation recommendations. an Aspirant Exam but wishing to examine should the Rock Instructor track or just adding this • Complete RIC consult the office to schedule and Aspirant Exam. program in between the Single Pitch and Rock • Since RIC III. I have discussed the merits of venue diversity Instructor programs. Other ideas included simply – Mock guide 10 grade III routes in the training and certification process. Simply, modifying the Rock Instructor Course (RIC) (Changed from 7) participants are better prepared and much bet- track as it already stands without adding the MPI – Grade IV eliminated ter guides if they train and have experience in course, to better allow for the in between stan- – On resume show 10 routes 5.10a or different mountain ranges with different snow dard. The issues we were up against in looking at harder packs, different geography and geology, different these ideas were: • Climb and guide solid 5.9 at the time of the course continued on page 14 AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com 5 Program Director Corner by Henry Beyer

Much has happened over the last ten months (RGC/AE) will remain the Rock Guide Course for both the Rock and Alpine Disciplines. as far as programs are concerned, so I will cut & Aspirant Exam. As Rob mentioned the new standards for the RIC straight to the chase. New Rock Instructor Course Standards and RIE are as follows (Rob outlines the specific Database Rob Hess, the AMGA Technical Director, has requirements in his Technical Director article): One of the biggest changes is the introduction discussed in length the changes made to the Rock • You must have 5.10a recreational climbing of my.amga.com - the AMGA’s new online Instructor Course (RIC) and Rock Instructor experience. database. This new system has many nice features Exam (RIE), so this is merely a re-cap with some • You must be comfortable leading 5.9 trad including the ability to apply for programs online. additional clarification. The RIC, with its new climbs on a variety of rock types Starting with 2010 programs, if you are planning modifications, will sit between the Climbing on registering for an AMGA course or exam, you Instructor track and the Guide track and serve • On the RIC you will be learning to guide on must register online. You also now have the ability two purposes: climbs up to 5.9 in difficulty and Grade III in length. to pay for your membership and tuition online. • It will serve as the preliminary course for The process is fairly self-explanatory and you those members interested in becoming • On the RIE you will be expected to guide two will be guided through the steps. However, if you AMGA Certified Rock Instructors (with clients on climbs up to 5.9 in difficulty and are having trouble with the online registration it’s new modifications). The SPI course Grade III in length system, please call the office and we will walk and assessment will not be required to take you through the process. • Grade IV or longer climbs will not; I repeat; the RIC, however the RIC will serve as an will not be required for the RIC or the RIE. Program Names excellent next step for those who are AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructors and wish to With these improvements to the program There has been a lot of confusion surrounding the AMGA office would like to announce an some program name changes that have taken move into multi-pitch terrain, but without the commitment of becoming a full rock guide. incentive program for current AMGA Certified place recently. This article stands as the definitive Rock Instructors that are considering pursuing statement regarding those changes. Any name • The RIC will continue to be one of two Rock Guide Certification. We are pleased to changes that have happened over the last few avenues for those members wishing to enter announce that we will be offering a 10% discount months will be revoked and the original names the Guide track; the Ski Guide Course (SGC) on AMGA Rock Guide Courses and Rock Guide will be reinstated. The Rock Instructor Course being the other point of entry. As a reminder Exams for current AMGA Rock Instructors (RIC) will remain the Rock Instructor Course the SGC is only a point of entry for the Ski and the Rock Guide Course & Aspirant Exam Discipline. The RIC is still the port of entry continued on page 14

6 AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com nce again, the time has come Scholarships • Jim Ratz Memorial Scholarship (IFMGA for all interested individuals to Application Process Certification) apply for AMGA Scholarships. Please e-mail the application, along with a • Julie Cheney Culberson Educational Fund: The AMGA has partnered with (Women’s scholarship) outdoor industry leaders and climbing resumé to the AMGA Membership privateO foundations to provide necessary Director, Josh Harrod ([email protected]). • Mammut Scholarship (Any Discipline) financial support for guides seeking training You must be enrolled in an AMGA program for • Marmot Scholarship (Any Discipline) and certification. The cost of pursuing your scholarship application to be accepted. • Mike Hattrup/XO Net Scholarship (Ski professional training and certification There is one general application that applies Guide Exam) can often be one of the greatest hurdles to all scholarships. However, you must submit • Mountain Hardwear Scholarship (Any for an educator and technical mountain a separate scholarship application for each Discipline) guide. Through the generous donations and program you are enrolled in. continued commitment of members, private • Osprey Scholarship (Any Discipline) donors, and the business community, the All scholarship applications are due January AMGA is able to minimize the financial 31st, 2010. • Patagonia Scholarship (Women’s Scholarship) burden of training and certification by **The exception to the above process and offering scholarships and memorial funds. deadline is the Chad VanderHam Memorial • Parker/Baxter-Jones Memorial (Rock We encourage everyone to apply and take Fund Scholarship. Applicants MUST submit Instructor, Rock Guide or Alpine Exam, or advantage of these opportunities. We will a short video (no longer than 5 minutes) Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam for IFMGA be accepting scholarship applications from describing who you are and why you love certification) November 1st, 2009 through Januay 31st, skiing. Applicants do not need to answer the • Petzl Scholarship (Any Discipline) 2010. Please note the one exception to the six questions on the application form. The • Scholarship (Alpine application deadline – Applications for The Deadline for this scholarship is January 1st, Discipline) Chad VanderHam Memorial Scholarship must 2010.** be received by January 1st, 2010. • Walker Family Foundation (Any Discipline) If you are interested in applying for any 2010 AMGA Scholarships of the scholarships offered by the AMGA, • W.L. Gore Scholarship (Any Discipline) • Arc’Teryx Scholarship (Ski Discipline) you can download the application a: www. amga.com/images/forms/scholarship_ • Backcountry Access Scholarship (Ski Guide application.pdf. Course) If you have any questions, feel free to • Black Diamond Scholarship (Any contact Josh Harrod at 303.271.0984 or Discipline) [email protected]. • Chad Vander Ham Memorial Fund (Ski Discipline) 2010 AMGA Scholarships

AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com 7 Craig Lubben Memorial S cholarship F und

honor Craig and his family, and in in Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, West Virginia, remembrance of his dedication to Canada, Mexico, Cuba, Puerto Rico, Cayman the guiding community, the AMGA Brac, Mona Island, France, China, Italy and hasTo set up a scholarship fund in his name. The Madagascar. He was the master of forbidding intent of this fund is to support candidates taking off-widths and helped revolutionize climbing by training and certification programs through the designing the Big Bro expandable tube chock. AMGA. We must thank Kyle and Cindy Lefkoff Craig authored a handful of featured articles, gear for their generous contribution of $2000 to reviews, and technique pieces. He has written help establish the fund and also those who made several instructional climbing books that have donations at this year’s Annual Meeting in Moab, helped change the lives of many aspiring and Utah. highly experienced climbers. Craig influenced American climbers in so many ways. Craig’s Craig was deeply dedicated to education. From passing is a tremendous loss to the AMGA formal guiding, instructional books, and classes community and the climbing world in general. to informal tips at the crag, countless hours teaching family and friends, and philosophizing If you would like to help pass his legacy on to over a beer, Craig spent his live expanding the guides for generations to come, please donate to perspectives of those around him. For the past the Craig Luebben Memorial Scholarship Fund 18 years Craig has been a part of the American today. Our goal is to raise enough funds to allow Mountain Guides Association starting in 1991 us to offer this scholarship in 2011. Any and all when he became an AMGA Certified Rock support is greatly appreciated. Guide. In 1998-2004 he served on the AMGA To donate you can call the AMGA office Board of Directors where he lobbied hard and (303.271.0984) or send a check to: tirelessly to raise the standards for American AMGA Mountain Guides. The AMGA was fortunate Craig Luebben Memorial Scholarship Fund to have Craig join the Instructor Pool in 2001 PO BOX 1739 where he influenced the lives hundreds of Boulder, CO aspiring guides. Craig was a climbing pioneer 80306 who achieved first ascents on rock and ice

2009 GRADUATES

2009 IFMGA: 2009 Rock Instructor Exam 2009 Rock Guide Exam Grads: --Joe Stock (IFMGA) --Adam George Grads: --Mark Allen --Chris Werner --Julia Niles --Johann Aberger --Josh Beckner --Christopher Wright --Ben Mitchell --Derek Doucet --Mike Bromberg --Jonathon Spitzer --Emilie Drinkwater --Alexis Finley 2009 Alpine Guide Exam Grads: --Joe Stock --Loren Erickson --Caroline George --Dave Ahrens --Tom Hargis --Caleb Padgett --Andrew Councell --Nate Disser --Anne Parmenter --Dustin Dearborn --Adam George (IFMGA) 2009 Ski Mountaineering Guide --Jamie Pollitte --Karsten Delap --Caroline George Exam Grads: --Brent Prough --Peter Fasoldt --Dawn Glanc --Adam George --Hiapo Emmons-Shaw --Seth Hobby --Forest McBrian --Marc Hanselman --Eli Simon --Eric Larson --Ben Mitchell (IFMGA) --Julia Niles (IFMGA) --Matt Shove --Forest McBrian --Ian Nicholson --Ben Mitchell --Massey Teel --David Merin --Patrick Ormond --Jayson Simons-Jones --Mark Vermeal --Chris Simmons --Mark Synnott --Eric Waldron --Liz Smart --Danny Uhlmann --Mark Smiley --David Vallet --Jonathon Spitzer (IFMGA) --Kurt Wedberg 8 AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com The AMGA Creates New Position to Meet Changing Needs by Josh Harrod

he AMGA is pleased to announce grown to the point where it is unfair and and Justin Yates have been those giants that due to the recent growth unsustainable to rely on the volunteer and Ed will have his work cut out for him in within the Climbing Instructor efforts of these two dedicated leaders to this new position. The goal is to have as Program we are changing the manage the SPI and CWI programs. To seamless a transition as possible. No doubt administrative structure of the address these changing needs of the there will be some bumps along the way and TClimbing Wall Instructor and Single Pitch In- organization the new Climbing Instructor we ask for your patience as Ed learns the structor Programs. A new position has been Program Director will be responsible for ropes, so to speak. The goal of the Climbing created and we are proud to announce that managing the programs including; managing Instructor Program Director position is to Ed Crothers has been hired to serve as the the Provider Pool, screening Provider grow these programs and set the standards Climbing Instructor Program Director. Ed Pool applicants, authorizing and denying for climbing instruction throughout the will continue to serve as the Accreditation exemption from programs and dealing with United States. Director in addition to his new role. the day-to-day tasks of insuring these Although the Climbing Instructor Program Both Discipline Coordinators have done an programs run smoothly and professionally. Director position will not offi cially start exceptional job of managing the Climbing With the Climbing Instructor Program until the fi rst of the year, Ed will take on Wall and Single Pitch Instructor Program. Director taking on these responsibilities the responsibilities of the position starting Much is owed to Joe Lentini and Adam the Discipline Coordinators can focus their immediately. Please direct questions Fox for all the hours they have devoted efforts on maintaining the standards, pertaining to either program that in the past to curriculum development, overseeing training future providers and working were sent to Justin Yates, Joe Lentini or the processing of course paperwork, hand in hand with the Climbing Instructor Adam Fox, directly to Ed at [email protected]. communicating with the Provider Pool and Program Director. for providing IP training to individuals As the saying goes, we see further when we all across the nation. The programs have stand on shoulders of giants. Adam, Joe

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AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com 9 The Doug Parker & Roger Baxter-Jones Membership Update MEMORIAL SCHOLARSHIP There are a lot of things going on in the wonderful world of Membership these days but for now I would like to steer your attention We are proud to announce a new scholarship guides, climbers, and wonderful human beings towards our new online database. for 2010. The Doug Parker & Roger Baxter- and was established by Richard Parker - Doug’s Jones scholarship will be available to brother and Roger’s friend. If you have not taken the time to visit my.amga. com, do it now. You can now update your any Guide enrolled to take a Rock Richard along with other members Guide, Rock Instructor or Alpine information, renew your membership, print out from the Parker, Sage and Bostwick your membership card, sign up for programs Exam, or taking the Ski Exam for families provided a substantial, their IFMGA pin. and more, all online. We’re hoping to make initial contribution to start the the AMGA Risk Management Plan available to Doug Parker and Roger Baxter- scholarship that will provide partial members via the database in the near future; just Jones (UK) were committed tuition to future recipients. The the first of several Member benefits you’ll be able mountain guides, lost in the inaugural recipient will receive to access by visiting the site. years ago, both at a young $2000 regardless off exam tuition. age. Doug guided for the Skinner Members of the Parker, Sage and The first thing you need to do next time you visit you’re my.amga.com page is update your Brothers in Pinedale, Wyoming in his Doug Parker Bostwick families raised this money beloved Wind River Mountains and specifically to honor the first contact information. Please make sure that both was known for his quiet strength, recipient of the Parker/Baxter-Jones the Birthdate and Country fields are filled out subtle humor, and infectious love of Scholarship. completely. Doing this should help alleviate the mountain life. Roger guided in some of the random error messages several of To apply for this or any of our 2010 you have been experiencing recently. Chamonix and was an early pioneer scholarships, please visit www.amga. in Himalayan alpine style ascents of com/programs/scholarships.php. We’ve been busy working out some of the quirks 8,000-meter mountains. “All the in the system and I think we’ve found and fixed way with RBJ” was not just a funny most of them. I ask that if you notice something slogan. Roger was not only a world a little off or experience any random errors, class Himalayan climber but also a please let me know so we can get it fixed right modest, thoughtful, and jovial man away. who loved sharing the mountain experience with others. This Roger Baxter-Jones That’s all for now. Cheers.Josh scholarship honors their memory as

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SHARKTOOTH SHOVEL 10 AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com Tom Hargis Achieves

by Josh Harrod IFMGA Status

ne of the many highlights of our and is the only American to summit Annual Meeting Main Event was IV. Tom has been to Everest and Tom Hargis being called up to Gasherbrum II, guided Pik Communism, Pik receive his IFMGA pin. Though a Lenin, Pik Korzhenevskaya, and Khan Tengri bit unexpected, it should come as (Kyrgystan). He was the recipient of AMGA noO surprise. When a few senior members of Lifetime Achievement in Guiding award in the Technical Committee proposed the idea 2004. He is an examiner and instructor in of granting Tom IFMGA status, the response AMGA Rock and Alpine disciplines, an AMGA from the group was a resounding yes. Tom Certified Alpine and Rock Guide, and now an has dedicated over thirty years of his life IFMGA Certified Guide. to guiding. He played a central role in the Marc Chauvin did a great job of summing it development of the AMGA Rock Program, all up when he said, “Tom reached IFMGA helping to establish and maintain a standard status by bridging the generational gap in concurrent with the other IFMGA nations. guiding. Not only does he give his all on the Tom’s resume speaks volumes. He has courses and exams, he also incorporates new done extensive climbs in Canada and U.S., techniques and methods in his guiding that including five routes on El Capitan and he’s learning from the younger guides. Those many ascents in the southwest. He has led who have gone through the certification expeditions and guided in Peru, Ecuador, process are inspired by his skill and his Argentina, and Mount Rainier as well as willingness to continue to learn.” Uzbekistan, Aksu and Asan-Usan valleys in Congratulations Tom! Kyrgyzstan. He completed the first ascent of northwest ridge of Gasherbrum IV in

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AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com 11 AMGA Program Schedule 2010

COURSE AND AREA: Date: Ratio: # of Days: Cost:

SKI DISCIPLINE: S1: SGC - Aspen, CO 1/25-2/5 5:1 12 $2,200 S2: SGC - Cascades, WA 2/9-20 5:1 12 $2,200 S3: SGC - Salt Lake City, UT 3/17-28 5:1 12 $2,200 S4: SMGC/AE - Canada 3/29-4/7 4:1 10 $2,200 S5: SMGE - Canada 3/29-4/5 4:1 8 $1,700 S6: SMGC/AE - Valdez, AK 4/19-28 4:1 10 $2,200 S7: SMGE - Valdez, AK 4/19-26 4:1 8 $1,700 S8: SGC - Jackson, WY 12/11-22 5:1 12 $2,200 AE Re-exam Aspen TBD

ROCK DISCIPLINE: R1: RGC - J Tree, CA 3/17-26 3:1 10 $2,000 R2: RIE - J Tree, CA 3/29-4/3 2:1 6 $1,600 R3: RGE - Red Rock, NV 4/5-10 2:1 6 $1,600 R4: ARGC/AE - Red Rock, NV 4/12-21 3:1 10 $2,00 R5: RIC - Smith Rock, OR 4/20-29 3:1 10 $2,000 R6: RGC - Boulder, CO 5/10-19 3:1 10 $2,000 R7: RIE - Boulder, CO 6/14-19 2:1 6 $1,600 R8: RIE - N. Conway, NH 8/29-9/3 2:1 6 $1,600 R9: ARGC/AE - Boulder, CO 9/6-15 3:1 10 $2,000 R10: RIC - N. Conway, NH 9/7-16 3:1 10 $2,000 R11: RIC - North Carolina 10/4-13 3:1 6 $2,000 R12: RGE - Red Rock, NV 10/6-11 2:1 6 $1,600 R13: RGC/AE - Red Rock, NV 10/13-22 3:1 10 $2,000 R14: RGE - Red Rock, NV 10/13-18 2:1 6 $1,600 R15: RIC – N. Conway, NH 7/19-28 3:1 10 $2,000 AE Re-exam 4/1-3 RR, 9/2-4 Bldr, 9/21-23 RR

ALPINE DISCIPLINE: A1: AGC - RMNP, CO 6/2-11 3:1 10 $2,000 A2: AGC - Jackson, Wy 6/14-23 3:1 10 $2,000 A3: AAGC/AE - Cascades, WA 8/2-13 3:1 12 $2,200 A4: AGE - Cascades, WA 8/16-25 2:1 10 $2,000 A5: AAGC/AE - Cascades, WA 9/13-24 3:1 12 $2,200 A6: AGE - Cascades, WA 9/13-22 2:1 10 $2,000 AE Re-exam 5/27-29 Bldr, 9/9-11 Cascades

ICE CLIMBING MODULE: I1:ICTC -- N. Conway, NH 2/4-8 3:1 5 $1,000

SGC= ski guide course RGE= rock guide exam. SMGC/AE= ski mountaineering guide course and aspirant exam. AGC= alpine guide course. SMGE= ski mountaineering guide exam. AAGC/AE= advanced alpine course and aspirant exam. RGC= rock guide course. AGE= alpine guide exam. ARGC/AE= advanced rock guide course and aspirant exam. ICTC= training course

12 AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com Climbing Instructor Program Director Brave New World by Ed Crothers

has been rocked. In AMGA was asking too much of these dedicated attention, here are some program updates: My world early October Betsy volunteers. Both of these guys will maintain a • Hardcopy of course materials will no longer informed me that the administrative structure leadership position with these programs - Adam be accepted. Using my.amga.com to put of the Single Pitch Instructor and Climbing Wall as Discipline Coordinator for the SPI and Joe your information directly into the database is Instructor Programs was being overhauled and as Discipline Coordinator for the CWI. My huge. It makes managing an incredible amount new position, Climbing Instructor Program responsibilities are to attend to the myriad of data more efficient and it is the green Director, was going to be established. The of administrative tasks required to keep both thing to do. Some of you have experienced intent was to have a person in the AMGA programs running smoothly. These tasks include, technical challenges; just goes with learning office attending to all the administrative needs but are not limited to, scheduling trainings, and working with a new system. Contact the of both these programs. Betsy offered me the processing applications, tracking the finances, office and we will help you work through the job. It took me a lot of soul searching. Was I answering email and phone inquiries, and glitches. willing to give up time in the field for a desk reporting to the Executive Director and Board of and computer? A number of threads in my life Directors. Questions or requests for information • In the near future, you will be able to pay for were coming together and it became clear to me you have directed to Adam or Joe should now be courses and assessments online. that this was an outstanding opportunity and an directed to me. Also, along with Rob Hess, I will • While on the subject of payments, a opportune time. I accepted. Suddenly my plate be working with Adam and Joe developing course new office policy has been implemented has become full to overflowing. Along with my and training curricula. that requires that we destroy credit card responsibilities as Accreditation Director, this Combined with managing a growing information once the payment has been new position comes with a steep learning curve, Accreditation Program, life in my corner of the processed. Less than ideal, but it is viewed but I knew that when I signed on. AMGA is busy. No complaints. I work with as a way to protect your confidential (RIE), so this is merely a re-cap with some So, a dedicated, dynamic, and talented group of information. So, I will send an invoice and why was this position created? For 2 years the people. Issues that will shape the organization request that you call in with your credit card Board of Directors has wanted to take a good far into the future are being debated and information. This should be a short-lived deal of the burden off the two individuals running implemented. The AMGA is an exciting place inconvenience that will be resolved when the both of these programs. As volunteers, Adam to be right now and I am psyched to have the online payment option is available. Fox and Joe Lentini have donated countless hours opportunity to make a contribution. • 2010 Provider Contracts should be sent to administering the Single Pitch Instructor out within the next month. Please read the To SPI and CWI Providers and Climbing Wall Instructor programs, contract carefully; there will be changes from respectively. Under their guidance both of these Thanks to all of you for your support and past contracts. programs have experienced enormous growth encouragement. I will do my best to keep things over the past few years. The point had been from slipping through the cracks, but inevitably reached, some would say exceeded, where the glitches will surface. Bear with me as I work That’s it for now. Have a great winter. to get a handle on this job. While I have your

2009 Annual Meeting Was a Success! MOAB, UTAH

AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com 13 Acknowledgment of Outgoing Board Member ANGELA HAWSE

Angela Hawse has been a full-time guide for 20 years. She is an AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide and has a diverse background in teaching and guiding throughout the US, Alaska, South America and Asia. Her tireless dedication and commitment to the AMGA has been revealed over the past six-years while serv- ing on the Board of Directors. She is greatly responsible for helping the AMGA raise the standard and quality of the educational methodology of our programs and is re- sponsible for strengthening the nominations process used to attract potential upstand- ing board nominees. Not only that but Angela did an incredible job representing the interest of guides while serving as the Vice President of the AMGA and as Chair of both the Membership and Nominations Committees. After serving two terms Angela has invested many hours into making the AMGA a better organization and no doubt has she left her mark. The AMGA is grateful for all of An- gela’s hard work. A huge thanks is in order and although Angela received a resounding applause of appreciation from the attendees at the AMGA Annual Meeting Main Event, I encourage us all to take a moment to thank our past and present board members for all that they do for our organization. Thank you Angela- you will be dearly missed.

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See our Guide & Client Discount Program for details at www.bradleyalpinist.com 14 AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com Ice Climbing Strength: AN IN-DEPTH ANALYSIS by J. Marc Beverly, BS-EMS, M-PAS, Certified Rock and Alpine Guide Stephen W. Attaway, PhD

Abstract: also commonly known as a “V-thread.” With it, a Ice climbing anchors are seemingly simple, yet have a climber can retreat without leaving much, if any, mystique that surrounds their use and overall strengths. Figure 1 Placing a screw gear behind, thereby being able to abseil many Not all ice climbing anchors are used in a standard into an existing hole is pitches in a row. Commonly, climbers will leave a configuration. Placing an into an already called re-boring. piece of webbing or cordage behind in the anchor existing ice screw hole is called re-boring. Re-boring so that climbing ropes do not become stuck in of ice screws is a common practice among ice climbers. the back of the Abalakov. At other times, the V- Re-boring is typically preferred when placing a screw thread is used as an anchoring point for climbing to avoid creating adjacent holes that could serve as a competitions, rescue anchors, top rope anchors, potential fracture propagation point. or other applications. Another scenario that often occurs is when We evaluated re-boring strengths for several ice screw de- an ice climber may be leading a pitch of ice at signs to determine the strength as a function of length of their difficulty threshold, finds an old hole that screw. Slow pull tests were performed, and the results were appears to be usable, and wonder if it is reason- compared with prior data from drop testing on ice screws. able to use that hole. A dull screw that doesn’t Static pull testing using lake ice was compared with drop “bite” into the ice to start a new hole is always testing on waterfall ice and found to be a good substitute problematic. Time can be of the essence when the test medium. In addition, we evaluated Abalakov anchors climber loses all strength and risks a dangerous (a.k.a. V-thread anchors), with 7mm Perlon cord as well fall. Re-boring an ice screw seems to be a quick Figure 2 shows a traditional horizontally made as 1” tubular webbing in different configurations. Their alternative to creating an entirely new hole and Abalakov ice anchor. strengths were then compared with that of the single can save the climber strength by decreasing the re-bored ice screws. The nature of ice is a continually amount of time spent to place a fresh ice screw. Anchor strength studies were first evaluated and changing medium and hard to predict in the field. How- Other legitimate scenarios exist for re-boring published in Canada by Joe Josephson. Since ever, the actual strengths shown from our testing methods an ice screw. The above are merely examples and then, many people have accepted that the Abala- in the real-world environment make a strong case for the are non-exhaustive. Much conjecture has been kov anchor as a standard rappel anchor for de- strength of re-boring. Recently, re-bored holes in a freez- created, leading to dogma, about how good these scent from ice climbs. The pendulum then swung ing environment were found to be strong enough in most placements are or are not. We now know that in public opinion that the Abalakov was stronger configurations. Abalakov ice anchors were also found to “psychological protection” (a piece of protection than an ice screw. This led to the idea that an Ab- be strong, provided that enough ice area was enclosed that the climber may think dubious) produces less alakov anchor was strong enough to belay from in by the anchor. Placing Abalakov anchors vertically ap- of an impact force on the system, even if a piece the multi-pitch climbing environment. peared to be stronger than placing them horizontally. fails, rather than just climbing quickly for the be- IV. METHODS Precautions and recommendations for use of ice climbing lay stance. “Running it out” produces larger forces anchors stem from our evaluation of the data. than a fall that pulls out a piece of protection We did slow pull tests on ice screw re-boring because of the residual fall factor after a failed configurations based on ice screws placed at a I. INTRODUCTION anchor point. We also know that air pockets (not positive angle relative to perpendicular of the Ice climbing anchors have traditionally been aerated ice) near ice screw placements are bad ice face. This positive angle is considered the shunned as not being strong anchors, especially and cause fracturing of the ice more readily. Ice is proper configuration for ,. Slow when compared to rock. Perhaps, this arises in a difficult medium to understand, and its fracture pull test in accordance with the Cordage Institute part from the fact that ice is a poorly understood mechanics can be explained to a certain degree, standard rate of pull of 0.5”-1.0” per second medium and has a mystique about it due to its but inherently, it is not possible to anticipate the powered by a hydraulic ram was used for pull perceived unpredictable nature at times. In nature of fracture, propagation, and collapse in testing of the screws and threaded anchors. Our technical ice climbing, the technique of re-boring the field as yet. Other types of ice anchors exist, drop testing was performed at the Ouray Ice Park, (Figure 1) has been utilized over the years. such as the bollard and Abalakov. The bollard Colorado. Two routes were used to perform the Several legitimate scenarios exist for re-boring is fairly passé and somewhat dangerous on ice, drop testing on, both located at the Lower Bridge: an ice screw. Finding a good placement for an ice because of decapitation and slipping, but it is used Rhythm Method WI5 (the same route that we used screw is often difficult. With the advent of more in the alpine environment. The threaded Abala- in 2005-06), and the 2008 Competition Route (on traffic on ice climbs, the usual “easy” ice screw kov, however, is used extensively. the ice section between the mixed rock climb- placements may have already been used. What ing and the diving board) that had not been used Threaded Ice Anchors: Abalakovs by any ice climbers prior to our testing. This site remains is the conundrum of choosing where (a.k.a. V-threads) to place a screw. One option is to place a screw provided a good control area. The two routes are into an already existing hole that was created Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov, a Russian, is on distinctly different aspects in the Uncompahgre by a previous ice climbing party. That hole is an credited for the innovation of drilling into the Gorge in order to get a better sampling of the ice uncontrolled factor as to what type of screw ice in two places, such that the two drilled holes at the Ouray Ice Park. would come together as far back as possible to was used initially, when it was drilled, and what Re-bored Ice Screw Results environmental conditions have occurred since the create a continuous hole. A rope or piece of cord hole was left behind. could then be threaded through and used as an A statistical comparison of drop test results and anchor, as shown in Figure 2. This technique is continued on page 12 AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com 15 Ice Climbing continued from page 11 Drop Testing Slow pulls in Lake Statistics Ice – ALL Screws slow pull testing is presented in Table 1. These re- kN kN sults indicate drop tests on waterfall ice and slow Mean 10.6 Mean 11.1 Standard Error 1.3 Standard Error 0.6 pull tests on lake ice produced similar results. Standard Deviation 4.9 Standard Deviation 3.7 A very high failure strength (22.5 kN) for a Minimum 3.9 Minimum 5.5 re-bored ice screw was achieved by leaving a Maximum 22.0 Maximum 19.7 re-bored screw overnight with a test mass of Count 15.0 Count 38.0 Con dence Level 2.7 Con dence Level 1.2 80kg hanging from it for more than ten hours. (95.0%) (95.0%) The temperatures recorded were less than -30°C in the Ice Park that night. There was no evidence Table 1 Re-bored ice screws; all results by testing type. of melt-out from the ice screw, even with a test mass hanging from it. This correlates well to Redline Failures - Re-bored Ice Screws kN Schulson’s evaluation that ice becomes stronger Beverly/Attaway 2005-06 - Drop Tests (non-re-bored) 10.14 (<25% when cooled from -5°C to -20°C). Beverly/Attaway 2007-08 - Drop Tests 10.58 We tested several different configurations of Beverly/Attaway 2007-08 - Slow pulls Lake Ice 11.09 threaded anchors. Temporal variations were Table 2 The overall averages of failure forces limited by pre-setting all the anchors and pulling each anchor to failure within a couple of minutes of each other. Test results showed that Abalakov was in the vertical configuration. This is also anchor strength was a strong function of geom- outlined in Table 3. From our testing data, 1” etry and orientation. tubular webbing tied off with a standard water knot/ring bend was measured to be the strongest Ice fails by fracture in zones of tension more on a consistent basis. easily than in compression2,6. In our testing, the failure mechanisms for Abalakovs and ice screws The good news is that all of the configurations resulted in a large segments of ice above the Figure 13 (left and middle) strongest orientation; and materials used were strong enough* to hold anchor point failing in tension. The ice located (middle) strongest orientation and material-vertical abseilers/rappellers with a significant safety mar- below the Abalakov and located below the screw 1” tubular webbing single loop; (right) weakest of the gin from a single anchor point. Testing showed are both placed in compression and actually have three, but still strong enough*. that anchors could fail at below expected climber a higher failure load due to the increased strength fall (7.5 kN) forces and should be backed up if in of ice under compression. Figure 13 displays the configuration and type of any doubt. materials used to make the threaded ice anchors. Discussion Figure 14 shows how the strongest orientation Using a re-bored ice screw as a first placement off a multi-pitch climb is a sufficient load reduction method that can aid the falling climber from placing the entire impact force on the anchor system that results from a residual fall Figure 11 Differing orientations of Abalakovs vs. total factor. strength with good grouping. (THIS ONE WAS NOT The most risk of high impact forces on IN THE NEW DOCUMENT) an anchor/anchor system in climb- ing is when a climber is starting from a hanging belay. A single ice anchor (screw or Abalakov) is unlikely to arrest Figure 14 Orientation of Abalakov vs. Strength, both a high impact force from a lead climber sets of anchors with 1” tubular webbing. in this position. In Figure 17, the leader

Data for Horizontal (V- Data for Vertical threads) (A-threads) kN kN Mean 11.3 Mean 14.4 Figure 12 Digital pictograph of the other orientations Standard Error 0.8 Standard Error 0.7 tested. (left) a V-thread with both holes places at +20 Median 10.3 Median 14.8 degrees and adjoining in the back; (right) A-threads (An- Standard Deviation 3.6 Standard Deviation 2.1 Sample Variance 12.7 Sample Variance 4.6 derson threads) with the tope hole 90 degrees perpendicu- Range 11.6 Range 6.6 lar and the other using the 60x60x60 degree method. Minimum 5.2 Minimum 10.9 Maximum 16.8 Maximum 17.5 Enclosed area is not the only mechanism upon Count 18.0 Count 10.0 which the strength is based. The strength is also a Largest(1) 16.8 Largest(1) 17.5 Smallest(1) 5.2 Smallest(1) 10.9 strong function of the anchor orientation. A ver- Con dence Level 1.8 Con dence Level 1.5 tical (A-thread) placement increases the overall (95.0%) (95.0%) anchor strength. Table 3 Data comparison of traditionally placed horizontal (V-threads) vs. vertically placed (A-threads). 16 AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com • A re-bored ice screw that is left in • Drop Test data on waterfall ice were weaker frozen temperatures overnight will likely than Slow Pull test data on lake ice. Rescue freeze in quite solid, even with a mass anchors for slow pulls will likely act as stron- of 80 kg suspended from it, and not ger placements than when climbers fall onto experience “melt-out,” even if placed in a ice screws. positive angle. • NEVER use a single anchor (A-thread, V- • The greater the area a threaded anchor thread, or ice screw) as the only anchor when has, the more likely it is to be a stronger high forces are expected, as seen with multi- anchor. So, save the longest screw for the pitch climbing. belay to make a threaded anchor using Note: Overdriving (red-lining) ice screws in the drop testing 60° x 60° x 60° as the best guide line for environment is dangerous. Flying ice debris, ice screw missiles, angle drilling. Figure 16 Shows peak force compared to ice anchor snapping ropes, and the general objective hazard of being in type and configuration. • A single ice screw, even a short the vertical ice environment, plus having to record data and re-bored screw, is generally about the also be aware of everything else going on, is taxing as well as expensive. Many thanks goes out to Angie Lucht for her help in would have been better off not to have clipped same in strength as a horizontal Abalakov anchor. drop testing and to Nic McKinley for his efficient help on the the anchor and thereby taking a fall factor of 2, slow pull tests performed on lake ice. as the rope would place a lesser peak force to the • The longer the ice screw is, the stronger the system than in the configuration shown. ice anchor will be, regardless of whether it is a We humbly and gratefully thank out sponsors PMI Rope, freshly placed screw or a re-bored screw. North America, Petzl, , Ltd, Conclusion and the Mountain Rescue Association. Without their help, • There is no significant difference when this research would not have been possible. Also, we thank the These tests were performed in what the authors comparing the three manufacturer’s brand ice Ouray Ice Park for the use of their facilities. consider to be “good ice1.” Lake ice appears to be screws when placed into an old hole of the a good testing medium for comparison analysis to same or different manufacturer. Beverly, M, Attaway, S. Measurement of System waterfall ice that is homogenous: • Reverse threads did not appear to make a dif- Stiffness in a Sequential Failure for Lead Climbing Falls. ITRS, ference in any regard. 2006. • Re-bored ice screws are too weak to withhold Schulson EM, Brittle Failure of Ice. Eng Fracture Mechanics 68 a UIAA fall factor all of the time. They are, • The optimum angle placement is >8° and (2001) 1839-87. <16° from our regression analysis. however, stronger than expected and compare Joe Josephson. “Ice Anchor Review”, The Canadian Alpine Journal, closely with an ice screw placed in virgin ice. • The vertical Abalakov is superior in strength 76, 1993, pp66-67. • Re-bored ice screws are nearly as strong as to the tradition horizontal or other configura- Beverly, M.; Attaway, S. Dynamic Shock Load Evaluation of Ice freshly drilled holes. It is likely that any refreez- tions tested. We call this the “A-thread”, since Screws: ing process that decreases the diameter of the discussions with Vince Anderson inspired A Real-World Look. ITRS, 2005. hole over time is of benefit for a re-bored screw. investigation into other configurations. Harmston, Chris. Climbing no 172 (Nov 97), pp106-115

AMGA Mountain Bulletin | 303.271.0984 | [email protected] | amga.com 17 Program Director Corner continued from page 6 TD Corner continued from page 5 will not be tested on the Aspirant Exam. 2 Ice skills will be tested on the final Alpine through to December 31st, 2011. This discount weather, different rock, logistics and in all just Exam to be sure participants’ keep their skill cannot be combined with other AMGA discounts different problems they must deal with in being level at the standard. i.e. employee discount for Accredited Programs. in a different location. For these reasons and others, we will be requiring that participants in 3 Courses will be scheduled in a variety of geo- New Rock Guide Course Standards the ski discipline take their courses and exams in graphical locations to facilitate the process. Two changes have been made to the requirements different locations, starting in 2010. Anyone who 4 Prerequisites for the course will be the Rock for The Rock Guide Course & Aspirant Exam has already taken the Ski Mountaineering Guide Instructor Course, avalanche education and (RGC/AE). The climbing standard has been Course and Aspirant Exam (SMGC/AE) but has ice related personal skills. changed from 5.10c to 5.10+ and the Grade yet to take the Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam IV climbs that were previously required for the (SMGE) will be required to take the SMGE in a 5 This course will be taken before the first level Rock Instructor Course have now been added to different venue from the SMGC/AE. We at the Alpine course. This will allow us to meet the requirements for the RGC/AE. That means AMGA will be sure to offer multiple affordable the needs of the Alpine program and will set to be enrolled into the RGC/AE you must have venues to facilitate this process. The long-term the structure for an ice instructor program. 10 Grade IV or longer routes on your resume at goal of the training and certification process is This structure will allow us to later add an the start of the course. Five of this routes must to require this in all disciplines though presently additional Ice Instructor certification and have occurred since completing the RIC. there is no time line for this to occur. create an Ice Instructor credential that can be completed with out taking Alpine courses. Ice Track IV. It has become increasingly more difficult So there you have it. If you have any questions or Again Rob Hess has discussed the particulars to train and assess ice related climbing skills on need any clarification, please contact myself and/ surrounding the implementation of the ice- Alpine programs. This and in consideration of the or the AMGA office. climbing component coming in 2011. In terms of fact that there are guiding centers that specialize progression through the Alpine Discipline, if you in ice guiding in the US and around the world, Thanks! Rob Hess have taken an Advanced Alpine Guide Course & we have decided to require an ice climbing com- Aspirant Exam (AAGC/AE) by December 31st, ponent in the Alpine program. In developing this 2010 you will be exempt from needing to take program, we have set ourselves up to add an ice the ice-climbing component in order to move on instructor credential akin to the Rock Instructor to the Alpine Guide Exam (AGE). (Movement certification that would be available to guides Skills will still be tested at the exam level.) without going through the Alpine program. This means the 2010 AAGC/AE will be the last This program is set to take place as of the Alpine chance to take this advanced level course under Guide training and certification season (May) in the current structure. For anyone who has not 2011. This means that there are two more full ice taken an AAGC/AE by the end of 2010, the ice- seasons to get this done. All individuals without climbing component will be required of any one Aspirant level courses signing up for Alpine looking to take an AGC or AAGC/AE in 2011. programs in 2011 must have this course before continuing. Once this has gone into effect, the So there you have it. There is a lot of information structure will be as follows: presented between Rob’s article and mine, so if you have questions don’t hesitate to contact 1 The ice climbing component will be 5-days either of us. in length. One day will be omitted from the Cheers! Henry Beyer, Program Director Advanced Alpine Guide Course and ice skills

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