buying guide september2011 Just inland from ’s rocky Adriatic shoreline— and even on some of its islands— has been produced for centuries.

2 central and 46 chile Eastern europe 51 california 18 63 washington 20 72 spirits 26 74 beer 44 new zealand WineMag.com | 1 BUYING I GUIDE

Central and Eastern Europe EXPLORING LANDS OF ANCIENT TRADITIONS hile often overshadowed by the so- garnered our Best Buy designation. called traditional wine-producing Wines from these regions are still rare finds on Wcountries of France, Germany, Italy, restaurant menus or wine store shelves, but Portugal and , throughout they’re gaining attention in some of the country’s Leonetti Cellar 2008 Central and Eastern Europe is deeply rooted, hottest restaurants and wine bars. In New York, 98 (Walla Walla Valley); $85. Dense, aromatic, stretching back centuries. Cold War geopolitics wine bars like serve Slovenian by layered and rich, this wine explodes from the glass with may prevent many Americans from being able to the glass, while the Italian restaurant Del Posto scents and flavors of concentrated berries, cassis, black identify Croatia, Slovenia or Romania on a map, offers Croatian alongside others from cherry, and more. The vines have reached a mature but just spinning a globe east with a hand placed Friuli-Venezia-Giulia. stage that amplifies the fruit and keeps the generous barrel flavors in perfect balance. The barrel notes roll on southern France makes it clear how fitting And don’t overlook Greek wines, which have on in a chorus of toasty accents, and the finish is as each of their winemaking traditions are. achieved some commercial success in the United good in the last minute as the first whiff from the glass. Located just across the Adriatic from Italy, States, but are still far from being staples. With Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Croatia and Slovenia have been producing quality such varieties as , Assyrtico and wines from both indigenous and international , the labels can be intimidating, but grape varieties at a wide range of price points. In the unique flavors are worth experiencing. Wines , where archaeologists have unearthed from all of these countries, and more, are evidence of Neolithic winemaking as far back as reviewed in this Buying Guide. 8,000 years ago, the ancient tradition of macerat- Elsewhere in this issue, Italian Editor Monica ing in clay vessels continues today. Larner looks at the 2007 Barolos, European Edi- Countries like Romania are producing quality tor Roger Voss offers a first glimpse of 2009 Bur- wines at an incredible value, even attracting the gundy and we have our usual rundown of the likes of the international négociant Cameron latest domestic releases. Hughes. In this issue alone, eight Romanian Enjoy! —ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA Rasa 2008 Creative Impulse 97 DuBrul Cabernet Sauvignon- (Yakima Valley); $95. A fine expression of the special strengths of the DuBrul vineyard. The fruit this Bordeaux-style red from Istria, but gain freshness is pure and juicy, a riot of blueberry, blackberry and CROATIA and verve from layers of bramble, menthol and fresh cassis. There is a focused thread of fresh herb and as herbs. Full bodied with exceptionally integrated tan- the nose expands the baking spices kick in beautifully. A RED WINES nins that are soft and round, it’s a big surprise at $13. wine to study and explore; it can continue to evolve for Imported by Tasty Wine Company. Best Buy. —A.I. hours, if not days. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Korta Katarina 2006 Plavac Mali (Peljeˇsac); 90 $38. For full review see page 10. Agrolaguna 2009 Castello Festigia (Istria); 87 $19. Indulgently rich on the nose and palate, Grgi´c Vina 2007 Plavac Mali (Peljeˇsac); $45. this intensely concentrated blend of Cab and is 89 A whopping 15.1% abv, this Plavac Mali (an full of ripe black fruit that melts into a coffee and ancestor of Zin) is certainly on the big and brawny side, chocolate-inflected midpalate. It’s not a dainty wine at but also reveals a complexity that evolves dramatically 13.7% abv, but velvety tannins, brisk acidity and an in the glass. Aromas of sun-dried hay and grass are earthy forest floor on the finish adds balance and prevalent through the nose and palate, adding a rustic complexity. Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. quality to the sweet and spicy red fruit, fig and toast characteristics. The long finish is marked by an assertive Istravino 2007 Donja Banda Plavac show of tannins. Imported by Vinum USA Inc. —A.I. 87 Mali (Peljeˇsac); $38. Undeniably rustic yet intriguing, this Plavac Mali is powerful on the nose and Agrolaguna 2009 Muˇskat Ruˇza (Istria); palate with aromas of overripened black fruit, freshly 88 $15. The rose petal aromas on this heady, ruby- harvested hay and alfalfa and an abundance of earthy Den Hoed 2007 Wallula Vineyards hued dessert Muˇskat Ruˇza, or Rosé wine, are so leather and mushroom notes. Significant aeration reveals 96 Andreas Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse pronounced, it’s almost overwhelming, but provide a a more feminine side with concentrated, dried black Heaven Hills); $80. Gilles Nicault, who oversees the rare and intriguing experience nonetheless. Semisweet cherry fruit, but one that’s still aggressive and tannic on Long Shadows portfolio, makes this pure Cabernet. If in style, the wine is rich and full bodied, dripping with the finish. Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. this had a Napa Valley label on it, it could sell for three rose petal jam, black cherry pie filling and a musky, times the price. The structure is full and fleshy, but dusty rose that trails from start to finish. Piliˇzota 2007 Babi´c (North Dalmatia); $22. with the vividly bright fruit that screams Washington Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. 87 Pronounced aromas of charred wood are impos- State. Juicy acidity underscores the berries, cherries ing on the nose, but intense black fruit shines through and plums; the generously applied new adds texture Istravino 2008 De Mar Cuvée Zenon on the palate, taming char into a more palatable blend and layers of caramel, coconut and chocolate. A bottle 88 (Istria); $13. Juicy red plums and cherries, that belongs with Washington’s (and California’s) best. vanilla and smoke are pleasant on the nose and palate of Continued on page 16 Editors’ Choice. —P.G.

2|WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Damilano 2007 Brunate (Barolo); $88. 94 Those with a fondness for bolder, denser expres- Marimar Estate 2007 Don Miguel Vine- sions of Barolo tend to select wines from the celebrated 95 yard Dobles Lías (Russian Brunate cru. Damilano makes one of the best wines Betz Family 2008 Père de Famille Caber- River Valley); $45. This is easily the richest, densest, from this special vineyard and the 2007 defi- 95 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $60. most complex of Marimar’s 2007 Chardonnays. Made nitely proves the point. Lingering tones of blackberry, Seductive and complex, the inviting aromas mix with extended lees contact, it has a fleshy, yeasty black olive, red rose, chopped mint and root beer build incense, blueberries, cassis, licorice and threads of herb freshness that gives the wine extra layers. The grape in intensity in the mouth. Imported by Vias Imports. and graphite. Flavors are wrapped tightly and unfold flavors show typical Green Valley long hangtime notes Cellar Selection. —M.L. gracefully through a long finish. The herbal side of of exotic tropical fruits, apricots, pears, honey, but- Cabernet is noted without being intrusive. Classic, deep tered toast, crème brûlée and sweet baking spices, and expressive. Cellar Selection. —P.G. brightened with acidity. A luxurious, splendid Chardonnay to drink now. —S.H.

Davis Family 2008 Cuvée Luke (Sierra 94 Foothills); $26. A beautiful, golden-colored Louis Latour 2009 Montrachet; $440. The blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and so lush no 95 grandest of all white Burgundy vineyards, Mon- Mark Ryan 2008 Dead Horse bottle will go unfinished. Honey and honeysuckle aro- trachet has produced a powerful, great wine, with 95 (Red Mountain); $45. This is the first wine to mas are followed by plenty of pleasing peach and apri- impressive ripe, dense fruit. There is still elegance, a be blended each year, though it is not labeled a reserve. cot and the perfect amount of minerality to hold it all sense of proportion, but the opulence of the Chardon- The new vintage has amazing depth, running down together. Yum. —V.B. nay here is impossible to resist. Imported by Louis through a litany of red and black fruits, into veins of Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. earth and tannin and graphite, and finishing with densely textured barrel notes of toast, coffee and bitter chocolate. Beautifully proportioned, deep and cellar- worthy. Cellar Selection. —P.G.

Marimar Estate 2007 Don Miguel Vine- 95 yard Cristina (Russian River Val- Den Hoed 2006 Wallula Vineyards Marie’s ley); $49. Massive, flamboyantly rich, a real treasure 94 View (Horse Heaven Hills); $80. Bright and in the mouth. Just dazzles with the intensity of cher- dense, totally packed with dark fruits and aromas, this ries, black raspberries, Dr. Pepper, plums, sweet young and brambly blend brings tart, wild berry, cassis vanilla-scented sandalwood and a wild array of savory Betz Family 2008 Clos de Betz Red Wine and smoky espresso into play full force. There’s black spices. The wine is a small-production barrel selec- 94 (Columbia Valley); $48. Tight and precise, licorice also, coffee grounds, and powerful tannins, tion from the estate vineyard, which is in the heart of with sharply defined edges, this needs hours of breath- along with the acids to age. Cellar Selection. —P.G. the Green Valley. Drink now and through 2013, at ing time. Dense black fruit, pretty herbal grace notes, least. —S.H. supple, slightly grainy tannins. Built for the long term. Cellar Selection. —P.G.

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Mark Ryan 2008 Water Witch Red Wine Envy 2008 Nord Vineyard Petite Sirah 94 (Red Mountain); $45. Great structure sup- 94 (Napa Valley); $45. Big, rich, thick, showing ports a massive, Cabernet-dominated wine, predictably all the hallmarks of a wine that means business. Very JM Cellars 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia loaded with ripe, chewy tannins. The flavors spread out great from a Petite Sirah point of view, massively con- 94 Valley); $35. Robust, lightly toasty, almost thickly over deep and brambly black cherry fruit, layer- structed in blackberries, cherries, blueberries, anise, creamy wine. It glides across the palate leaving a trail of ing in highlights of smoke and toffee. Cellar Selec- coffee, cocoa and spices, with firm, rich tannins, and whipped cream; it’s that smooth and flavorful. In a year tion. —P.G. the briary, slightly rustic mouthfeel that characterizes that produced a number of stunningly good Washington the variety. Really good now, with decanting, and Chardonnays, this belongs with the best. Editors’ should develop in the bottle for many years. —S.H. Choice. —P.G.

Negretti 2004 Bricco Ambrogio (Barolo); Joseph Drouhin 2008 Clos des Mouches 94 $60. From the successful 2004 vintage, this Fontanafredda 2007 Serralunga d’Alba 94 Premier Cru (Beaune); $100. With its famed beautifully evolved Barolo is just about ready to drink. 94 (Barolo); $45. Thanks to new ownership and medieval script label, this is classic wine from Drouhin. The tannins show a fine, silky quality and the bouquet recent dynamic changes, the historic Fontanafredda This 2008 has all the typical buttery richness while also offers tones of plump black fruit, root beer and pow- estate is poised to bring us many beautiful surprises in showing structure, texture and an impressive edge of dered licorice. Imported by Delectation Wines. —M.L. the future. This gorgeous from the opulent tension. For aging six years or more. Imported by Drey- 2007 vintage delivers delicate floral aromas of red rose fus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —R.V. and violet in front of espresso, chocolate, cola and black cherry. Drink after 2018. Imported by Palm Bay Inter- national. Cellar Selection. —M.L.

Renato Ratti 2007 Conca (Barolo); $80. Louis Latour 2009 Corton-Charlemagne; 94 Barolo Conca opens with inky dark concentra- Gloria Ferrer 2007 Pinot Noir (Carneros); 94 $129. Powerful, concentrated and intense, tion and soothing aromas of black fruit, spice, cola, 94 $22. The first of Gloria’s 2007 Pinots to be this wine rolls around the mouth in its rich opulence. plum, prune and dried lavender buds. The nose pres- released, and a promising allure to their future block The ripest of sweet apricot and pear fruits join but- ents those ethereal and delicate aromas, but in the bottlings. The wine is, in a word, superb. It has ripe tery toast just laced with acidity. Imported by Louis mouth, it delivers thicker flavors of chocolate and raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit, but also a won- Latour Inc. —R.V. mocha. Drink after 2018. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby derful earthiness of mushrooms, and the tannin-acid & Co. Cellar Selection. —M.L. balance is near perfect. A gorgeous young wine to decant and enjoy now. —S.H.

4|WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Chateau Rollat 2007 Edouard de Rollat Efest¯e 2008 Tough Guy Red (Red Moun- 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley); 93 tain); $55. This very limited offering from JM Cellars 2008 Tre Fanciulli Red (Colum- $62. At first this seems a bit attenuated; the midpalate Efesté perfectly captures theKlipsun Vineyard’s trade- 93 bia Valley); $42. This top tier blend of 53% a bit dumb. The tannins are astringent and fine, and the mark expression of deep, dark, black fruits and earthy, Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 14% Syrah has a fruit is clean and tart, and needs extended decanting. smoky, powerful tannins. A dense, complex, earthy and vein of sweet blackberry fruit that is wonderfully com- Sleek, Bordeaux-like, and quite firm, it has a strong ageworthy red. Cellar Selection. —P.G. pelling. It dives into striated layers of rock, pencil, streak of graphite and clean earth, with polished tannins earth, bark, smoke and herb––not yet comingled, but and impressive depth and length. —P.G. fascinating. Cellar Selection. —P.G.

Chateau Rollat 2007 Rollat Cabernet Elvio Cogno 2007 Ravera (Barolo); $75. Joseph Drouhin 2008 Marquis de Laguiche 93 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley); $38. This 93 From the celebrated Ravera cru, Elvio Cogno 93 Morgeot Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montra- wine is still a baby. Deep fruit flavors of boysenberry, delivers a classic and elegant expression of Nebbiolo chet); $99. A wonderful, ripe wine, full of yellow fruits, cassis and black cherry are tightly wrapped in dark bar- with tight tannins, long aging potential and nuanced textured with apple skins and a powerful edge of miner- rel flavors of graphite and baking spices; tannins are aromas of small berry fruit, cola, leather, licorice and ality. It shows power and concentration while offering still stiff with tongue-drying astringency. This wine has smoky cedar tones. Save this wine in your cellar 10 smooth, rounded fruit flavors that also pack intense texture and depth, but needs time and attention to its years or more. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. acidity and toast. For aging. Imported by Dreyfus, subtleties. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —R.V.

Fontanafredda 2007 La Rosa (Barolo); 93 $115. Barolo La Rosa delivers bold, dark con- Longoria 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot centration with sweet spice tones of almond paste and 93 Noir (Santa Maria Valley); $45. Obviously Efest¯e 2008 Big Papa Old Block Cabernet vanilla cream backed by sharply focused aromas of red from a superior terroir, this Pinot shows gorgeously ripe 93 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $49. An berry, cassis, plum and mocha. In the mouth, this beau- berry fruit and spices, brisk acidity, firm tannins and a immense wine, inky purple, packed with black and pur- tiful Nebbiolo boasts a linear but long-lasting feel. rich coating of oak. But the parts haven’t come together. ple fruits, laced with smoke and espresso, and finished Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. It’s like a team that needs practice. Should peak some- with fine-grained, substantial tannins. This Cab lives up time in 2012, and hold for a couple years. Cellar Selec- to its name––it’s a Big Muthah as well as Papa, and tion. —S.H. should be cellared for optimal expression. Cellar Selection. —P.G.

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Mark Ryan 2009 Viognier (Columbia Val- Siduri 2009 Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot Noir 93 ley); $28. Consistent with past years, this is a 93 (Sta. Rita Hills); $52. This single-vineyard Marcarini 2007 Brunate (Barolo); $54. This vivacious, lip-smacking style of Viognier, with a mix of wine tastes young and dense in youth. It shows deli- 93 Barolo from the Brunate cru shows gorgeous fruits that goes from grapefruit into papaya, and just ciously ripe and forward cherry, raspberry, bacon and characteristics of mature fruit, spice, natural rubber, about everything in between. Wonderful minerality, spice flavors, in a silky clean texture. There’s an edge of asphalt, tar and root beer. The wine’s personality is persistence, and citrus rind phenolics. Editors’ tannins, but not so much that you couldn’t enjoy it now marked by a comforting, almost familiar territory- Choice. —P.G. and over the next six years. —S.H. driven feel that recalls the greatest Nebbiolo-based wines from Piedmont. Save this bottle in your cellar for 10 years or more. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L.

Siduri 2009 Ewald Vineyard Pinot Noir Michele Chiarlo 2007 Reyna (Barbaresco); 93 (Russian River Valley); $44. So delicious, you 93 $40. Reyna is a top-notch Barbaresco and this want to drink it up, and that’s just fine. The wealth of vintage delivers extra soft and supple smoothness fol- raspberry, cherry, cola, pomegranate and sandalwood lowed by dark concentration and excellent intensity. flavors is vastly rewarding. Yet there’s a good balance of Marimar Estate 2007 Doña Margarita There are so many aromatic descriptors here: espresso, tannins and acidity that suggests midterm aging. Drink 93 Vineyard Mas Cavalls Pinot Noir (Russian black fruit, licorice, root beer, tar, tobacco and more. now–2015. —S.H. River Valley); $44. Stunningly delicious. A real daz- Drink from 2015–2020. Imported by Kobrand. —M.L. zler in the mouth, offering complex tiers of cherries, raspberries, sweet vanilla, rose petals, cinnamon and clove and smoky sandalwood. This richness is perfectly balanced by crisp, coastal acidity and a hint of tannin astringency. Hard to keep from drinking it now, but it should develop over the next six years. —S.H.

Simonnet-Febvre 2008 Les Clos Grand Cru 93 (Chablis); $70. A beautifully proportioned wine, from its rich yet mineral texture to its full grapefruit and gooseberry flavors. It gradually shows Seven Hills 2007 Pentad (Walla Walla Val- toast as well as wonderful acidity. For aging over 4–6 93 ley); $50. The aromas begin with a pretty violet years. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Selec- Mark Ryan 2008 Long Haul Red Wine (Red character, around plum and smoke. Flavors are tightly tion. —R.V. 93 Mountain); $45. A tight, tannic, tongue-stain- wound and balanced, with sharp acids. This slowly ing wine. It’s scented with rich loam and exotic spices, opens over many hours of breathing time to unveil and the fruit is firm and deep, with veins of black cassis smooth, soft fruit, light herbs, pretty floral highlights and coffee running side by side. Give this a lot of and great texture. Cellar Selection. —P.G. breathing time. Cellar Selection. —P.G.

6|WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Ardenvoir 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia C. Beck 2008 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley); 92 Valley); $25. A new offering from Ardenvoir, 92 $38. The grapes are from old vines in Calistoga, this Chardonnay is as Burgundian as any in Washing- and the wine shows the ripe, rich, full-bodied personal- Domaine Sigalas 2010 Assyrtico (San- ton. Fine, tart and racy fruit is married to top-notch ity of that warm area. It’s dry and tannic, yet opulent in 92 torini); $24. Sigalas sets the bar high for Assyr- French oak. The meld of vivid apple and citrus flavors sweet oak, raspberry, blackberry, plum and chocolate tiko as usual. This 2010 is a balance of rounded citrus, to mineral-soaked acidity and a frame of toasted fruit, with a long, spicy finish. Very nice now, and crisp sea salt and sparkling minerality. Delicious with coconut is marvelously seductive. Ageworthy but should develop over many years. —S.H. grilled fish, fruit or alone on a hot day, this is an elegant already delicious. —P.G. gem of a white that represents some of the best of Greek wine offered today. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.

Ardenvoir 2009 Semillon (Columbia Val- 92 ley); $22. This barrel-fermented Sémillon Chateau Rollat 2007 Sophie de Rollat deftly mixes smoky toast with rich and deep fruit flavors 92 (Columbia Valley); $29. Young and hard, with Efest¯e 2010 Feral of melon and grapefruit. Exceptionally concentrated sharp edges but excellent components. A bigger wine 92 (Columbia Valley); $18. Fermented with wild and full-bodied, it carries forward into this new vintage than the ’06 Sophie. Still a firm, tannic, rather hard- yeast in neutral French oak barrels, this Evergreen the well-established style of Ardenvoir’s unique take on edged wine, but delicious. Pepper Bridge and Seven Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc opens with a burst of pep- Washington Sémillon. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Hills fruit delivers excellent structure and depth, pol- pery citrus fruit, almost Grüner-like. That spicy note ished tannins, with cassis and blackberry fruit driven persists throughout the long, sweetly herbal flavor set, deep into the core of the wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. blending lemon and lime, pineapple and grapefruit in a harmonious, lively and palate-cleansing crescendo. Edi- tors’ Choice. —P.G.

Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Stone Tree Vine- 92 yard 1 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke Damilano 2007 Cannubi (Barolo); $90. Slope); $48. This is an outlier in the Brian Carter 92 From one of Italy’s greatest vineyard designa- Efest¯e 2008 Final-Final Cabernet-Syrah lineup of Euro-style blends, a single vineyard, pure tions, this Cannubi Barolo shows all the beauty and ele- 92 (Columbia Valley); $27. Deep purple, it Cabernet. As such, it drills down deeply into gance that makes Piedmont a wine region celebrated explodes into lush fruit flavors of tangy boysenberry, the character of Washington terroir as captured in a and envied around the world. The 2007 edition of the blackberry, black cherry and cassis, with a smoky black Cab-friendly site, the Stone Tree Vineyard in the wine is particularly soft and ripe with plush cherry and licorice streak woven through. The tannin management heart of the Wahluke Slope AVA. Dark, deep, con- pipe tobacco aromas followed by a smooth, velvety fin- is exceptional here––firm and substantial, without any centrated, smoky, with tendrils of earth and rock ish. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. bitter or green aspect. This is a supple, powerful, and reaching all the way through the tart and tannic finish. ageworthy wine with depth and muscle unusual in this Cellar Selection. —P.G. price range. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.

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Envy 2008 Vaca Mountain Petite Sirah 92 (Napa Valley); $45. Dry, hard in tannins and Brian Carter Cellars 2007 Le Coursier Red rustic in the way of some youthful Petite Sirahs. If you Marimar Estate 2009 Don Miguel Vine- 91 Wine (Columbia Valley); $30. Compact and drink it now, you’ll find plenty of sweet, flashy cherries 92 yard Acero Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian chewy, with clearly delineated Bordeaux style and char- and raspberries, but the wine will feel hard and astrin- River Valley); $29. There’s no oak on this beautiful acter. Cassis and black cherry fruit; stiff, earthy tannins, gent. Needs time. Should begin to blossom after 2014 Chardonnay, but it’s so rich, you won’t even notice. good length and fine aging potential. The acids and tan- and drink well for many years after. Cellar Selection. Enhanced with crisp acidity and minerality, it’s potent nins are in good proportion, and the fruit is not over- —S.H. in lime, citron, green apple, pear and honeysuckle fla- taken with new oak, but there is enough (40%) to frame vors, with a vanilla sweetness. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. it with some sweet spices. Cellar Selection. —P.G.

Figgins 2008 Estate Red Wine (Walla Walla 92 Valley); $85. A Bordeaux-style blend and a Alta Maria 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Brian Carter Cellars 2006 Solesce Red delicious wine, powerfully fruity, silky, spicy, and seduc- 91 Valley); $28. A lovely, sophisticated Pinot Noir, 91 Wine (Yakima Valley); $50. The extra time tive. It shows lovely balance and nice threading of anise, marked by a modest level and the transparent, has helped to unwrap what must have been an exceed- cocoa, caramel barrel flavors. —P.G. silky texture the variety should have. With crisp acidity ingly compact wine, but it still needs to be decanted and fine tannins, it shows dry, complex flavors of and/or cellared further. The black fruits are subservient berries, cola, pomegranates, sugared herb tea and dusty to the dense, tarry tannins. Everything is ripe, but ripe spices. Should develop over the next six years. Editors’ as fine Bordeaux is ripe, with earth and bark and herb Choice. —S.H. still prominent. Cellar Selection. —P.G.

JM Cellars 2008 Syrah (Columbia Valley); 92 $32. John Bigelow sources from exceptional Ardenvoir 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Colum- vineyards scattered around eastern Washington; this has 91 bia Valley); $19. Intense from the first sniff Klipsun, Lewis, Stillwater Creek and Boushey grapes in right on through the last lingering aftertaste, this seems Chateau Rollat 2008 Rollat Cabernet the blend. Carefully crafted, it pits its sharp, tangy berry far more extracted than its 13% alcohol would indicate. 91 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley); $38. Sweet fruit against flavors of cured meat, smoke, anise, Concentrated fruit flavors of citrus flesh and citrus rind, barrel flavors set off pretty fruit, a generous mix of whiskey barrel and earth––a glorious and complex med- married to the snap and sizzle of Sauvignon’s grassy cherries and berries, with juicy underlying acidity. This ley of flavors. Still young and sharp, this will benefit acidity. Amazing depth. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. wine needs quite a bit more time to unfold. For the from some further years of bottle age. Editors’ moment, all the components are right but the integra- Choice. —P.G. tion is not complete. —P.G.

8|WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Efest¯e 2010 Evergreen Riesling (Columbia Chiarito 2007 Estate Bottled Nero d’Avola 91 Valley); $16. Though this is just 12.2% alcohol 91 (Mendocino); $36. John Chiarito is the first (hence, off-dry), you’d never peg it for anything less Nautilus 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- American to petition for the right to label his wine Nero than searingly tart and bracing. Grapefruit, green berry, 91 ough); $17. Winemaker Clive Jones has been d’Avola, a variety he grows just outside of the town of green apple and lime coalesce around the lip-smacking steadily improving the wines at Nautilus, and the 2010 Ukiah in eastern Mendocino and a nod to his family’s acids. Young and primary; though already delicious, it Sauvignon Blanc may be his best yet. Leafy, capsicum Southern Italian heritage (the grape is native to ). should improve significantly with some cellaring. Edi- notes arise on the nose and persist through the finish, Here he’s made an outstandingly intriguing, rustic, big tors’ Choice. —P.G. backed with just enough grapefruit to see them fruit, high-acid red that’ll surprise you as it opens, very through. Lithe and refreshing. Imported by Negociants Old World and definitely worth a try if you can find it. USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Only 60 cases produced. —V.B.

Craggy Range 2007 Le 91 Sol Gimblett Gravels Syrah (Hawke’s Bay); $90. In its first couple of , Le Sol was almost Australian in character, but it is now taking a more perfumed and elegant tack, with this ’07 featuring hints of rhubarb and cracked pepper on the nose, and dark berry fruit matched by savory Fritz 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian notes of coffee and black olives on 91 River Valley); $50. A flamboyantly rich wine, Siduri 2009 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $29. the palate. It’s creamy in texture, elaborate in cherry, pomegranate, persimmon and cola 91 Absolutely delicious, so rich and spicy and ripe, yet without excess weight, and fin- flavors that are deep and impressive. Yet there’s good with the most delicate tannins. The raspberry and ishes long. Drink now–2020. structure, with soft acidity and a gentle coating of tan- cherry fruit sweetly explodes on the palate, but is con- Imported by Kobrand. —J.C. nins. Drink over the next four years. —S.H. trolled by minerals, and the finish is dry. Wonderful now, and a bargain compared to Siduri’s single-vine- yard Pinots. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

Maycas del Limari 2010 Reserva Especial Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Vaillons Premier Damilano 2006 Lecinquevigne (Barolo); 91 Sauvignon Blanc (Limarí Valley); $22. It 91 Cru (Chablis); $30. Very tight wine, very min- 91 $39. Made with fruit assembled from five spe- took this Concha y Toro specialty label a few years to eral, with a distinct steel and coiled spring feel to it. cific vineyard sites across the Barolo wine region, this find its footing with Sauvignon Blanc, but in 2010 they Citrus and green apples dominate. This will age well. beautiful blend of Nebbiolo grapes offers a clear win- found it. This is a subtle but chiseled wine with struc- Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. dow onto the noble Italian variety. Aromas include ture, juicy acidity and pure apple, lime and tarragon small berry fruit, spice, white peppercorn and cola. flavors. It’s consistent from nose to tail, and it’s deep There’s a tight firmness that propels a long finish. and layered, too. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.S. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 9 BUYING I GUIDE

Freestone 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Maldonado 2008 Los Olivos Vineyard 90 Coast); $55. So brisk in acidity, you can taste 90 Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $36. Very rich Alta Maria 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Maria the ocean winds that chill this coastal vineyard at night. and ripe, a modern style Chardonnay. It’s well-oaked, 90 Valley); $28. No Chardonnay in California is It’s also extraordinarily ripe. Few Pinot Noirs get this showing aromas and flavors of buttered toast and richer or riper than this. It detonates on the palate with fruity. Floods the mouth with the essence of raspberries vanilla cream, as well as fruitier notes of roasted an explosion of pineapples, green apples, tangerines, and cherries. The acidity and a firm minerality give it pineapples, pears and oranges. Drink this flamboyant apricots, honey, butterscotch and dusty cinnamon much needed structure. —S.H. wine now. —S.H. spices. Acidity is pretty and zesty. Would benefit from greater subtlety, but it sure is opulent. —S.H.

Mount Nelson 2010 Sauvignon Blanc 90 (Marlborough); $19. A joint venture between Tuscany’s Ludovico and Piero Antinori, Mount Nelson’s 2010 is a fresh, herbal rendering of Château Julien 2007 Private Reserve Mer- Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Treble notes of 90 lot (Monterey County); $42. Nice to see Jones of Washington 2010 Chardonnay tomato leaf and bell pepper predominate, with grape- such a nice Merlot from Château Julien, their best ever. 90 (Wahluke Slope); $17. Well-crafted, and built fruit providing the bass. Imported by Wilson Daniels It does what Merlot should, being dry and lush, with upon solid, ripe, estate-grown fruit. Juicy stone fruits Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. complex sour cherry, currant, herb, cocoa and spice fla- are lightly wrapped in buttery oak, filling the mouth vors wrapped into smooth tannins. A lovely wine for and holding firm and balanced through a lingering and drinking now. —S.H. very pleasant finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.

Travaglini 2004 Riserva (Gattinara); $59. Concha y Toro 2010 Terrunyo El Trián- 90 Gattinara (a pure expression of Nebbiolo) 90 gulo Vineyard Block 28 Sauvignon Blanc Korta Katarina 2006 Plavac Mali (Peljeˇsac); offers many of the aromatic characteristics one nor- (Casablanca Valley); $25. Perfumed and exotic at 90 $38. While bold and rich with a concentrated mally associates with Barbaresco and Barolo, two of first, this benchmark Chilean SB settles into familiarity black fruit character, Korta Katarina’s Plavac Mali is Italy’s greatest red wines. There are tones of small upon airing. The nose is pungent and tropical, with also wonderfully expressive with glimmers of rose petal, berry, cola, tar and licorice. The wine is tight and fresh green accents. The palate is zesty and sharp, with acid- espresso and chocolate under a spray of raspberry per- overall and cleans the palate very well. Imported by driven lemon, lime and green apple flavors. Not timid; fume. Big, ripe tannins subside with aeration to a Palm Bay International. —M.L. this is Sauvignon Blanc served up on a laser beam. smooth, finely grained texture, finishing on a delicious Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.S. black cherry and vanilla note. Imported by Katharine’s Garden LLC. —A.I.

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Nasiakos 2007 Agiorgitiko (Nemea); $20. 89 This wine knows exactly what it wants to be: Clifford Bay 2009 Pinot Noir (Marl- fresh, fruity and easy to love. With its red cherry, black 88 borough); $15. A terrific value in Pinot Noir, pepper and cedary spice aromas and flavors, it’s a bal- Clifford Bay’s 2009 offers hints of underbrush and anced, approachable red with style. It has backbone but mushroom alongside ample cherry fruit and berry tea Paul Dolan 2009 Made With Organically also a soft touch. A fun and modern expression of the shadings on the finish. The combination of moderate 88 Grown Grapes Sauvignon Blanc (Mendo- variety. Imported by Stellar Importing Company, LLC. complexity, good length and silky tannins are unusual cino County); $18. Made from organically grown —S.K. for a Pinot of this price. Drink now. Imported by Foley grapes, this Sauvignon Blanc opens up with flint and Family Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. melon, has a crisp. clean taste throughout that delves sweet and low on the finish. —V.B.

Occasio 2010 Del Arroyo Vineyard Sauvi- 89 gnon Blanc (Livermore Valley); $18. A dark gold Sauvignon Blanc with clean, fine notes of apricot Stickybeak 2009 Semillon-Sauvignon that’s dry and has complex texture. Needs time to Korta Katarina 2008 Poˇsip (Korˇcula); $24. 88 Blanc (Sonoma County); $17. Crisp, zingy develop. —V.B. 88 Waxy and floral on the nose with hints of zesty acidity and dryness make this wine instantly appealing. orange peel, this dry, full bodied white is richly con- It’s so bright and clean, but quite rich in peach, pear, centrated with tangerine, lime and fresh apple flavors. lime and lemongrass flavors. A great cocktail sipper, or It’s bold at 13.6% abv, but maintains a crisp, citrus pith with Asian food. —S.H. astringency and orange blossom elegance to the finish. Imported by Katharine’s Garden LLC. —A.I.

Buried Cane 2009 Single Leaf Riesling 88 (Columbia Valley); $14. Just barely percepti- ble residual sugar, along with plenty of acidity, keeps Stickybeak 2008 Syrah (Napa County); this on the edge of dry. A pretty, floral nose introduces a Paul Dolan 2009 Made With Organically 88 $20. This generous Syrah is reminiscent of a palate with mango, peach and cinnamon-dusted pear 88 Grown Grapes Chardonnay (Mendocino nice, rich Provençal wine. It’s soft and spicy and fruit. Nicely balanced with good concentration and County); $18. Dolan continues to produce stellar fruity, with a good grip of tannin. The black raspberry, length. —P.G. whites and reds from organically grown grapes in Men- mulberry and cherry flavors are dusted with cinna- docino County. This Chardonnay is ripe and full of min- mon and clove, and you’ll find a coating of sweet, erality, a liquid form of crisp apple with vanilla on the smoky oak. The vineyard is on Atlas Peak. Editors’ finish. —V.B. Choice. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 11 BUYING I GUIDE BEER

Silver Ridge 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali- 86 fornia); $12. Lots of sweet, ripe apricot, citrus Valley of the Moon 2010 Unoaked and honeysuckle flavors in this wine, which straddles Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery Pale Ale 88 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $14. A the line between dry and off dry. It’s brightened with 94 (English Pale Ale; Samuel Smith Old Brew- good value for the richness. Even though there’s no oak, crisp acidity. A nice, versatile for drinking ery (Tadcaster), England); 5.0% abv, $4/550 ml. the wine is opulently sweet in pineapples, green apples, with a wide range of fare. —S.H. This classic English pale ale pours a clear, light pears, bananas, mangoes, limes, honey and vanilla. mahogany hue with a small, coffee-colored head and a Drink now with roast salmon and summer corn on the nice rim of lacing. A rich toasted malt core leads the cob. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. way, with notes of caramel, raw sweet dough and baked apple adding complexity throughout. The medium- weight mouth is full and satisfying but remarkably clean thanks to assertive carbonation and a floral hop finish SPIRITS with an appropriate dryness. BESTBUYS Dewar’s 12 Years Old 92 (Scotland; Bacardi USA, Miami, FL); 40% abv, $29. At first, the scent is mild and sweet, but with time opens up to a dis- tinct caramel aroma with a tinge of orange peel. Although fairly boozy on the palate at first sip, eventu- Buried Cane 2009 Whiteline No-Oak ally this viscous, honey-colored 87 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); $14. A spirit emerges as mellow and good, clean, tart and lightly spicy all-stainless style. fruity, and faintly peated. A splash Cool climate fruit puts the accent on lime and lemon of water coaxes out more vanilla flavors, keeps the alcohol low (13.3%), and makes this tones. Good value. a fine match to shellfish, white fish and light pasta dishes. —P.G. Jones of Washington 2010 Sauvignon 91 Blanc (Columbia Valley); $15. Honeysuckle scents and ripe, fresh-fruit flavors run from grapefruit on into tropical. This was fermented in Hungarian pun- Dewar’s 18 Years Old cheons, picking up just a hint of toast along the way. 91 (Scotland; Bacardi USA, Clean and quite delicious. Best Buy. —P.G. Miami, FL); 40% abv, $80. Give this soft, smooth whisky a little time to open up. At first, it reads as fruity, oaky and a little floral, but after a while deeper caramel and almond aromas open up. Dried fruit, vanilla, and caramel flavors segue into a lin- gering smoky finish, which acceler- ates with repeated sips.

Korta Katarina 2009 Plavac Mali- 87 Rosé (Peljeˇsac); $21. While just a touch ripe Cameron Hughes 2009 Lot 240 Albariño on the nose, this rosé is wonderfully dry with a bright 90 (Clarksburg); $11. The kind of light-drinking, red plum and cherry compote palate accented by deep, balanced, crisp, clean white wine one could drink all stony minerality. Full bodied, yet pleasantly astringent day, from Clarksburg-grown grapes, another testament on the finish, it’s the perfect accompaniment to seafood. to the ’s ability to do nice things with Imported by Katharine’s Garden LLC. —A.I. Mediterranean whites. Juicy with sweet peach, lime and apple and a nose full of honeysuckle, it finishes easy. Best Buy. —V.B.

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 BESTBUYS BESTBUYS BESTBUYS

Concannon 2009 Conservancy Chardon- Lyrarakis 2010 Vilana (); $13. A nose 90 nay (Livermore Valley); $15. Jeez Louise, Viña Bisquertt 2010 La Reserve Mer- 88 of lemon, slate and rich, ripe fruit leads into bal- this is good, ripe, rich Chardonnay from a big producer 90 lot (Colchagua Valley); $11. Toasty, rich and anced, fuller-bodied flavors of citrus and tropical fruit. in the Livermore Valley, and an amazing deal. It starts spicy on the nose, with big black fruit aromas, a dusting Fresh acidity balances out the curvier side of the wine. with a Burgundian nose of slight oak and citrus, then of raw oak and smoked meat. It’s full, round and lush in Easygoing and a good everyday sip. Imported by Stellar dances with intense layers of pear, vanilla and caramel the mouth, with ripe flavors of blackberry and oak but Importing Company, LLC. Best Buy. —S.K. toffee, a healthy dose of defining minerality throughout. nothing candied, faux or cheap tasting. Smooth, full and Best Buy. —V.B. chocolaty on the finish; excellent overall for $11 Merlot. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S.

Concha y Toro 2009 Casillero del Diablo 90 Reserva Privada Cabernet Sauvignon- Guenoc 2009 Chardonnay (Lake County); Syrah (Maipo Valley); $14. Stout and compact out of 89 $14. A light-colored, lemon-zesty, cool-vintage the blocks, with ripe cassis and berry aromas and only a Chardonnay that’s fruit forward but has great balance pinch of herbal spiciness. It’s creamy, big and warm in and finish, light on the tongue and easygoing all around. Vaeni NV Makedonikos Red Semi-Dry the mouth, with a ton of mocha, chocolate, cassis and With stone fruit and a hint of vanilla, this affordable 88 Wine (); $11. This fun, fresh Xino- blackberry. Intense and dark late, with a coconut sweet- white should also be fairly easy to find (almost 4,000 mavro from Greece maintains poise between easygoing ness to the finish. Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best cases made) and a successful pairing with a range of red fruit and a more serious, spicy backbone. Red Buy. —M.S. lighter salads and seafood dishes. Best Buy. —V.B. cherry, strawberry, leather and pepper lead. A great everyday red with some exotic character. Imported by Stellar Importing Company, LLC. Best Buy. —S.K.

MontGras 2009 (Colchagua Val- 90 ley); $12. Sweet and smoky on the nose, with Viña Requingua 2009 Toro de Piedra prune, hickory and spice aromas that come together 89 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Cameron Hughes 2009 Frunza Merlot well. The palate on this four-grape blend is saturated Valley); $14. Full berry aromas blend with a light 87 (Viile Timisului); $7. Deeply concentrated on and meaty, while the flavors of blackberry, coffee and herbal whiff on the nose. In the mouth, it’s full-bodied the nose with pure black fruit and whiffs of toast and dark plum are lush and finish with toast and spice. and round, with dark blackberry and plum flavors. Turns wood, this Merlot packs a lot of bang for the buck. Full Always one of Chile’s best values; an overperformer a bit oaky and drying on the finish, but overall one can bodied and dry, it’s mellow but bright, overflowing with year after year. Imported by Palm Bay International. only praise the wine’s solidity, depth and honest flavors. cassis and black cherry flavors and a fresh, herbal finish. Best Buy. —M.S. Imported by Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. Imported by Cameron Hughes Wine. Best Buy. —A.I.

WineMag.com | 13 BUYING I GUIDE BESTBUYS BESTBUYS BESTBUYS

Morro Bay 2009 Split Oak Estates Sur Lie 87 Chardonnay (California); $12. For a 10,000- Clos du Lac 2010 Sauvignon Blanc case production out of the Central Valley, this is a pretty 87 (Amador County); $10. A modestly priced, good Chardonnay, pleasant with acidity, citrus and nicely integrated, easy-to-drink Sauvignon Blanc from vanilla that flirts with a buttery profile but demures Viña Requingua 2010 Puerto Viejo the Sierra Foothills with notes of pear and honey and before it’s too late. Grapes were grown under the Lodi 87 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley); good acidity. Best Buy. —V.B. Rules certified green program. Best Buy. —V.B. $10. Fairly neutral on the nose, but clean and easy to get into. The palate offers good acidity and vitality for Maule SB, with tropical fruit leading the flavor profile followed by pithy green notes. Overall this is a good value white. Imported by Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S.

Cono Sur 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cen- 87 tral Valley); $10. Berry aromas are clean, Redwood Creek 2008 Frei Brothers Vine- attractive and as expected. Structured and a little tannic 87 yards Zinfandel (Lodi); $8. A remarkably Backhouse 2010 Chardonnay (California); in the mouth, with spicy, lightly oaked berry flavors that juicy, berry, cherry Zin that’s fully in balance and easy to 86 $7. An incredibly fair price for a fairly low in are normal as can be. Finishes with herbs, mocha and drink, not to mention a great price. Best Buy. —V.B. alcohol (12%) Chardonnay sourced from throughout juicy acids along with a touch of tomato. Imported by California. The wine veers tropical but also exhibits Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. plenty of green apple, lemon and honey. Mellow on the finish and all-around easy to drink. Best Buy. —V.B.

François Lurton 2009 Hacienda Araucano Twin Islands 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- 87 Reserva Carmenère (Colchagua Valley); 87 borough); $11. Leafy and nettle-like upfront, $11. Dry and spicy up front, with aromas of herbed but deepening a bit on the palate to show nectarine, raspberry and sandalwood. The palate is juicy and grapefruit and tomatillo notes. The only quibble with Barefoot NV Sauvignon Blanc (California); structured, with toasty, spicy plum and berry flavors this medium-bodied white from the winemaker at Nau- 86 $7. Another Best Buy from Barefoot, which is and good zest. Finishes toasty, with a bit of chocolaty tilus is that it seems almost a little sweet on the finish (the able to turn out good wines at giveaway prices. The richness. Fresh, ripe and well oaked. Imported by stated residual sugar level is 3 g/L). Drink now. Imported wine is basically dry, very crisp in acidity and pleasant in Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. by Negociants USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. lemon, lime, melon, nectarine and honey flavors. Best Buy. —S.H.

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 THE WINE ENTHUSIAST BUYING GUIDE The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new releases and selected older wines evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Maga- zine’s editors and other qualified tasters. On a regular basis the Buying Guide includes reports on special tastings and the wines of specific producers. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Senior Editor/ Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Tasting Coordinator Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa and Contributing Editor Michael Schachner in New York, Euro- pean Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, Contributing Editor Steve Heimoff in Oak- land, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Con- tributing Reviewer Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear Cameron Hughes 2009 Frunza Pinot Noir Twisted 2010 Moscato (California); $8. following the note. When no initials appear, the wine was eval- uated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note 86 (Viile Timisului); $7. Puckery sweet morello 84 Very sweet, with honeyed flavors of tangerines reflect the input of all tasters. cherries scent this refreshing, medium-bodied Roman- and peaches. Crisp acidity provides balance. A charm- Each review contains a score, the full name of the wine, its ian Pinot Noir. On the palate, jammy red fruit is bal- ing, low-alcohol for beachside drinking. suggested national retail price, and a tasting note. If price can- anced by soft tannins and glimmers of granite, gravel Best Buy. —S.H. not be confirmed, $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. and sun-dried hay. Not too shabby at $7. Imported by Cameron Hughes Wine. Best Buy. —A.I. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS Tastings are conducted individually or in a group setting and performed blind or in accordance with accepted industry prac- tices. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, wines considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular wine. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompany- ing tasting note to learn about a wine’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Coastal Ridge 2010 Moscato (California); Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 86 $8. With distinctly sweet flavors that cross over critical circumstances. beyond off dry, this pleasantly tart Moscato is best Wines receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed. thought of as a dessert wine. It has savory flavors of oranges, honey and vanilla. Best Buy. —S.H. SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS Editors’ Choice wines are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designa- tion does not mean that a wine must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bot- tle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are wines that offer a high level of quality in rela- tion to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but they are generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING WINES FOR REVIEW Wines should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing loca- tion as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to Tast- ing Coordinator Anna Lee C. Iijima at 914.345.9463 or email [email protected]. There is no charge for sub- mitting wines. We make every effort to taste all wines submit- Barefoot NV Refreshingly Sweet Riesling ted for review, but there is no guarantee that all wines submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the (California); $7. 85 Kudos to Gallo for letting magazine. All wines must be accompanied by a submission people know this wine is sweet. That avoids a lot of form, which may be downloaded from our Web site. confusion. The honey, tangerine and peach flavors are LABELS balanced with lots of zesty acidity. Delightful, and a Labels are paid promotions. and great bargain. Best Buy. —S.H. representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 15 BUYING I GUIDE of rich blackberry preserves, smoke and barnyard. The Bura NV Galerija Art & Wine (Peljeˇsac); dry, full-bodied are quite pleasant. At a long finish ends with supple tannins and a touch of 83 $14. Attractive on the nose with sweet black bold 13.8% abv, the finish is indeed a bit hot. Imported vanilla and mocha-kissed fruit. Imported by Vinum fruit accented with black pepper and herbs, this light- by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. USA Inc. —A.I. bodied Plavac Mali is a deviation from its big, brooding peers. While vibrant with brisk acidity and an alcohol Dingaˇc Winery 2009 Plavac Mali (Peljeˇsac); level that’s under 12%, hints of green and underripe ROMANIA 86 $12. Soft and sweet on the nose with scents of fruit detract from its pleasant sour cherry palate. cherry pie, vanilla and spice, this unusually light-bodied Imported by Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I. RED WINES Plavac Mali is fresh and vibrant with a bright red fruit core and zippy acidity. There’s a tinge of green on the Cameron Hughes 2009 Frunza Merlot midpalate, but soft, furry tannins and the sour cherry ROSÉ 87 (Viile Timisului); $7. For full review see page finish are pleasant. Imported by Blue Danube Wine 13. Best Buy. Korta Katarina 2009 Plavac Mali-Zinfandel Co. Best Buy. —A.I. 87 Rosé (Peljeˇsac); $21. For full review see page Cameron Hughes 2009 Frunza Pinot Noir (Viile Timisului); $7. Iloˇcki Podrumi 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon- 12. 86 For full review see page 15. Best Buy. 85 Blaufränkisch (Podunavlje); $13. Notes of sweet blueberry and blackberry jam entice on the nose WHITE WINES Cramele Halewood 2009 Single Vineyard and palate of this light to medium-bodied blend of Cab Selection Adrian Vineyard Shiraz (Dealu and Blaufränkisch. Soft on the palate with a core of 85 Grgi´c Vina 2009 Poˇsip (Korˇcula); $25. Mare); $9. Sweet and spicy on the nose with ripe, juicy sweet black fruit, it’s balanced by smooth tannins, bright 90 Intriguing on the nose with aromas of hazelnuts black fruit peppered with exotic spice notes. The black acidity and just a hint of bramble and wood. Surpris- and smoke veiled in orange flowers, citrus rind and plum and cassis flavors on the palate could use a boost ingly long on the finish. Imported by Tasty Wine Com- resin, this full-bodied white from the Poˇsip grape is of intensity, but the bright, sour cherry finish is pleas- pany. —A.I. deliciously multifaceted. Dry and savory on the palate, ant. Imported by Halewood International, USA. Best it’s flecked with hints of fruit and spice—spiced Buy. —A.I. Istravino 2008 De Mar Teran (Istria); $13. poached pears and dried orange peels—and a lingering 85 Aromas of black currant jam, plum compote and finish that ends on a rich nut skin and nut oil note. Zestrea Murfatlar 2008 Sweet Red menthol entice on the nose of this Teran (Refosco in Imported by Vinum USA Inc. —A.I. 83 Feteasca (Murfatlar); $8. For red wine Italy) from Istria, but there’s a dense, broad feel to this drinkers seeking an easygoing dessert tipple, this semi- wine that detracts from the deep black fruit and supple Korta Katarina 2008 Poˇsip (Korˇcula); $24. sweet Feteasca is a cheerful candidate with sour cherry tannins that are otherwise quite pleasant. Imported by 88 For full review see page 11. fruit flavors darkened by just a hint of bramble. Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. Medium bodied with bright acidity that keeps the Iloˇcki Podrumi 2008 Traminer (Podunavlje); palate fresh. Imported by Bozic’s Imports. —A.I. Iloˇcki Podrumi 2009 Blaufränkisch 87 $13. While softly smokey on the nose and 84 (Podunavlje); $13. Grapey on the nose with palate, this honey-kissed Traminer is gorgeously per- veins of bramble and black tea leaves, this Blaufränkish fumed with notes of orange blossoms and waxy white WHITE WINES (Lemberger in Germany) is fairly tannic on entry but florals. Lusciously mouth quenching with a pithy, citrus- softens considerably with aeration. Give it some time, flavored mid-palate, it finishes on a tasty lime juice and Cramele Halewood 2010 Single Vineyard and it reveals a far more elegant profile with fresh black white pepper note. Imported by Tasty Wine Company. 87 Selection Sebes Alba Transylvania Sauvi- cherry fruit laced with a rustic, autumn leaf note and —A.I. gnon Blanc (Sebes); $9. Surprisingly multifaceted, lively acidity. Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. this lovely Sauvignon Blanc counters sweet, ripe stone- Istravino 2009 De Mar Malvasia (Istria); fruit and gooseberry on the nose and palate with ele- Istravino 2008 De Mar Plavac Plavac Mali 87 $13. Yellow freesias, fresh apples and quince gant hints of fresh tarragon and bergamot. Dry and 84 (Peljeˇsac); $13. Both the nose and palate of preserves perfume this lovely, medium -bodied Malva- medium bodied in style, it’s a refreshing wine with brisk this medium-bodied Plavac Mali are soft and pulpy with sia from Istria. Dry on the palate yet elegantly fruity, it acidity and balanced alcohol. Imported by Halewood overripe red fruit accented by the scent of golden hay. balances bright, fresh apple and tangerine flavors with International, USA. Best Buy. —A.I. nervy acidity and a lemon pith astringency on the finish. Bright acidity in the midpalate adds freshness, and Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. Cramele Recas 2010 Alb Demisec Feteasca moderate tannins are mouthcoating with a soft, pow- Regala (Recas); $7. Flirtatious on the nose dery grain. Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. 87 Podrumi Belje 2009 Graˇsevina Welschries- with heady white blossoms, peach and sweet citrus ling (Podunavlje); $15. Savory in style with scents, this medium-bodied Feteasca Regala is crisp Lirica 2008 Plavac Mali (Peljeˇsac); $16. 85 notes of smoke and black tea leaves on the nose, this and vivacious on the palate with an abundance of white Earthy on the nose with aromas of sun-dried 84 full-bodied dry Welschriesling is vibrant on the palate peach and apricot flavors balanced by lime zest and a hay, foliage and a high toned black cherry note. Signifi- with fresh apples and herbs. Strikingly high in acidity fresh, zippy acidity. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. cant aeration softens grassy aromas to reveal a red berry but finishes on a pleasantly tart apple skin note. Best Buy. —A.I. palate marked with bright acidity, but the finish is Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. aggressive with rough, gripping tannins. Imported by Cramele Recas 2009 Chardonnay (Recas); Vinum USA Inc. —A.I. Enjingi 2009 Graˇsevina Welschriesling 87 $7. Fragrant on the nose with fresh orange, 84 (Kutjevo); $13. Floral and fruity up front with lemon and honeysuckle aromas, this full bodied Chard Podrumi Belje 2008 Pinot Noir sweet lychee, stonefruit and jasmine flower notes, this is is deliciously quaffable with a concentrated apple palate 84 (Podunavlje); $13. High-toned, red cherry a refreshing wine with zesty acidity and a clean, grassy and just a hint of buttered toast. Another well-made fruit aromas on this bold, full-bodied Croatian Pinot midpalate that’s just a bit short on concentration. Romanian at an unbeatable bargain price. Imported by transition nicely to a deeply concentrated black fruit Imported by Vinum USA Inc. —A.I. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. Best Buy. —A.I. palate sprinkled with cocoa and vanilla notes. The tex- ture is lush overall, but grape tannins feel harsh and Iloˇcki Podrumi 2009 Graˇsevina Welschries- Cramele Recas 2009 Dreambird Pinot Gri- grippy on the finish. Imported by Tasty Wine Company. 84 ling (Podunavlje); $15. While lacking in con- 86 gio (Viile Timisului); $7. Appley and fresh —A.I. centration, honeyed apple and black tea notes on this with hints of white peach and blossoms on the nose and

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 palate, this is a straightforward yet well-made Pinot Gri- textured yet full and forward with a rich, layered com- gio that’s hard to resist for under $10. Snappy and clean RED WINE plexity. Imported by Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. with brisk acidity and a pretty green floral finish. Imported by Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. Pullus 2009 Modri Pinot (Stajerska);ˇ $15. Château Musar 2009 Musar Jeune Red 82 While dark and dusty on the nose with hints of 90 (Bekaa Valley); $20. Gorgeous on the nose Cramele Recas 2010 Dreamfish Sauvignon mushroom and barnyard funk, there’s a core of black with a blast of fresh red fruit, violets and smoke, 86 Blanc (Viile Timisului); $7. While floral and cherry fruit and spice that reveals itself with extended Musar’s Jeune is unabashed in its youth and verve com- fruity on the nose with juicy white peach, lemon and aeration. Medium bodied with a lush, smooth texture, it pared to the more austere Gaston Hochar line. The orange blossom notes, the palate is all Sauvignon Blanc, finishes with a mouthful of coarse, grippy tannins. palate boasts the same deeply concentrated fruit, but full of ripe gooseberries and a green, grassy backdrop. Imported by Vinum USA Inc. —A.I. with a freshness and acidity that lingers to a smoky, Refreshingly high in acid, yet ends on a soft peach leather-accented finish. Imported by Broadbent Selec- candy note. Pretty remarkable for $7. Imported by Tri- tions, Inc. —A.I. Vin Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. OTHER EUROPE BULGARIA Château Musar 2002 Gaston Hochar Red 88 (Bekaa Valley); $50. Sweet on the nose with aromas of cherry and strawberry preserves, the 2002 SLOVENIA Vini 2009 Veni Vidi Vici Cabernet Sauvi- Gaston Hochar is softer and jammier on the palate than gnon (Thracian Valley); $8. Nicely concen- WHITE WINES 87 the 2000 vintage. Prolonged aeration reveals a smoke, trated with a core of ripe red fruit and menthol, this is a vanilla, and toast notes and lush, smooth tannins that fresh, forward Cab that’s a bargain at $8. Bright and Sanctum 2009 Chardonnay (Maribor); $17. clean from start to finish, the finish lingers on smooth, linger elegantly. Imported by Broadbent Selections, Alluring on the nose with hints of apple blos- 88 velvety tannins and a fresh, herbaceous mint note. Inc. —A.I. soms, sweet pears and lemons against a backdrop of Imported by Bulgarian Master Vintners. Best Buy. — Château Musar 2003 Hochar Père et Fils toast and smoke, this Slovenian Chard is effortlessly A.I. drinkable despite a hefty alcohol content. Luscious and 87 Red (Bekaa Valley); $26. Ripe red fruit shines full on the palate with rich apple flavors and an elegant Vini 2009 Veni Vidi Vici Merlot (Thracian brightly amidst darker notes of damp foliage and astringency on the finish. Imported by Vinum USA Inc. 87 Valley); $8. Harmonious on the nose and leather that add complexity and depth to this fleshy red —A.I. palate with ripe black plums and cassis enveloped by a blend. Soft and fresh on the palate with a restrained layer of char and smoke. Medium to full bodied with acidity, it’s a rustic, yet elegant wine. Imported by Pullus 2009 Pinot Grigio (Stajerska);ˇ $15. structured acidity, it’s a straightforward but sound Mer- Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. 87 Pale salmon in color, this Pinot Grigio is almost lot with powdery, soft tannins and a tasty black cherry rosé-like. Bursting with sweet red strawberries, cherries and graham cracker finish. Imported by Bulgarian Mas- Château Musar 2009 Musar Jeune Rosé and watermelon on the nose and palate, it’s wonder- ter Vintners. Best Buy. —A.I. 86 (Bekaa Valley); $20. A shower of rose petals fully refreshing with just a hint of soft tannins on the brightens subdued strawberry and cherry flavors on this finish. Imported by Vinum USA Inc. —A.I. Vini 2009 Veni Vidi Vici Pinot Noir elegant dry rosé made from Cinsault. Full bodied on 87 (Danube River Plains); $9. Packed with the palate with a clean, stony minerality on the finish. Pullus 2009 g-Pullus Sauvignon (Stajer-ˇ bright red cherries, strawberries and a spray of violet Imported by Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. 86 ska); $20. The nose and palate of this dry, full perfume, this medium bodied Bulgarian Pinot is bodied Sauvignon bursts with freshly squeezed limes straightforward yet surprisingly well structured with Château Musar 2004 Gaston Hochar and herbacious grass and lemon verbena notes. Dry zesty acidity and soft, integrated tannins. A fresh, tasty 86 White (Bekaa Valley); $46. Curious on the and full bodied in style, it’s enlivened by zesty acidity, pick that’s a steal at $9. Imported by Bulgarian Master nose with hints of orange peels, resin and a dusty, floral but with a 14% alcohol content, finishes with some Vintners. Best Buy. —A.I. aroma, the 2004 Gaston Horchar shows a subdued fruit heat. Imported by Vinum USA Inc. —A.I. and floral quality that’s faded from the 2003. Flickers of orange and fresh apple brighten a palate that’s yeasty Pullus 2009 Laˇski Rizling Dry Welschries- GEORGIA and warm like fino . Round and rich with an ling (Stajerska);ˇ $15. Smelling sweetly of umami-laden finish. Imported by Broadbent Selections, 86 Telavi 2008 Marani Kondoli Vineyards freesias and fresh apples, this full bodied dry Inc. —A.I. Mtsvane-Kisi (Kakheti); $14. Pristine on the Welschriesling counters soft, juicy white peach flavors 87 nose and palate with soft white peach, Meyer lemon with a bracing lime juice acidity that tingles briskly on Château Musar 2009 Musar Jeune White and green floral notes, this crisp white is the perfect the finish. Imported by Vinum USA Inc. —A.I. (Bekaa Valley); $20. Smoky and rich with a apéritif or seafood pairing. While fairly full in body, its 86 swirl of petrol, dried apple and smoked nut skin flavors puckery lemon and tangerine flavors and clean, miner- Pullus 2009 Sauvignon (Stajerska);ˇ $15. on the nose and palate, this is a dry, full-bodied white ally finish make this an elegant pick. Imported by Corus Honeyed on the nose with bursts of ripe yellow blend that’s intentionally savory in style. Pleasantly pithy 86 LLC. —A.I. peach and apricot, this dry, full bodied Sauvignon is in the midpalate with hints of sun-dried hay and orange similarly soft and fruity on the palate. Fresh green floral peel. Imported by Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. and herb notes add vibrance to a moderately long fin- ASIA ish. Imported by Vinum USA Inc. —A.I. Château Musar 2003 Gaston Hochar LEBANON 85 White (Bekaa Valley); $48. Rich with roasted Pullus 2008 g-Pullus Traminer (Stajerska);ˇ hazelnuts and a high-toned citrus aroma, this Lebanese 85 $20. Ebulliently perfumed with heady white Château Musar 2000 Gaston Hochar Red white is deliberately oxidized to produce a dry, savory florals that blow off to reveal a luscious, white peach 91 (Bekaa Valley); $63. Exceptional concentra- wine that’s intriguing on the nose and palate. While nose, this dry, full-bodied Traminer is a bit high in alco- tion, structure and balance mark this 11-year old blend glimmers of poached pear and lemon peek through, hol, but plush and pleasant on the palate with yellow of Cab, Cinsault and that’s ripe with cassis and fruit is clearly secondary to the layers of nutty, yeasty, peach, tangerine and waxy lanolin notes. Imported by plums and a plume of smoke, earth and barnyard funk. oily flavors that dominate the palate. Imported by Vinum USA Inc. —A.I. Tannins subdued into a powdery softness, it’s elegantly Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I.

WineMag.com | 17 BUYING I GUIDE

pair it with grilled lamb. Imported by Trireme Imports. elegant and integrated, with flavors and aromas of INDIA —S.K. chocolate-covered cherry, raspberry and black pepper. A dry, minerally spin gives it focus, but overall it has an Good Earth Wine 2008 Concerto Collec- Vaeni 2005 Damascenos Red Wine Fumé alluring, fruity character. The finish is long, with pepper 82 tion Basso Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 84 Xinomavro (Naoussa); $25. Earthy notes of and anise throughout. Imported by Stellar Importing (Nashik); $20. Charred wood and smoke dominate the cedar, tobacco and leather mix with tart cherry and - Company, LLC. —S.K. nose and palate of this Indian Cab, smoldering over a let on the nose and palate of this indigenous red. A core of plush black fruit that hides within. It’s a pleas- crisp, focused style that will pair well with spiced meat Domaine Foivos 2004 Methyse (Mavro- antly textured wine with soft, fine-grained tannins, but and burgers, and is ready to drink now. Imported by 88 daphne de Cephalonie); $30/500 ml. An overwhelmed by smoke and a stalky, green finish. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. upright burst of cedar, menthol and molasses on the Imported by Good Earth Winery. —A.I. nose gives this dessert wine a serious edge. On the palate, cinnamon, cigarbox and cedar offer spicy, mas- MERLOT culine character. Toasted nut adds to the mix. An GREEK REDS intriguing sip. Imported by Stellar Importing Company, Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2008 Château LLC. —S.K. AGIORGITIKO 88 Julia Merlot (Drama); $26. The nose on this layered Merlot offers dark cherry, cocoa and spice aro- Hatzimichalis 2007 Estate Hatzimichalis Nasiakos 2007 Agiorgitiko (Nemea); $20. mas. Cedar, cigarbox, cherry and chocolate on the 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Atalanti Valley); $20. 89 For full review see page 11. palate are balanced with a clean, chalky mouthfeel. The Currants, cherry and cocoa aromas give this Cabernet a wine can age but has appeal now, and a serious focus. luscious start. On the palate, a smoky wave of cherry, Tetramythos 2009 Agiorgitiko (Pelopon- Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K. blackberry and cedar is both exotic and likeable. This is nese); $12. 88 Blackberry, black cherry and cinna- a tight wine but has appealing fruit accents. Imported Hatzimichalis 2005 Domaine Hatzimichalis mon aromas start this balanced, smooth wine. The by Athenee Importers. —S.K. palate follows with mellow flavors of vanilla, cherry and 86 Merlot (Atalanti Valley); $50. This wine has spicebox. An affordable red with versatile appeal. a floral tone in the aroma that is quite lovely, along with Lyrarakis 2005 Symbolo Grand Cuvee Imported by Trireme Imports. Best Buy. —S.K. strawberry, spice and pepper tones. On the palate, Unfiltered Red (Crete); $55. Strong, savory savory waves of spiced meat, balsamic and spice are 88 and a hint of wild on the palate, this red starts soft with Palivou 2006 Agiorgitiko (Nemea); $25. rounded out by plum and cherry fruit. Basic but blackberry, cedar, and raspberry aromas, but unfolds Slightly eccentric but overall appealing, this friendly. Imported by Athenee Importers. —S.K. 87 into spiced meat, pepper and leather on the palate. This bohemian wine offers blackberry, forest fruit and pep- wine has a diverse character, and is really appealing. per character and a clean, fresh finish. It’s an elegant, Hatzimichalis 2007 Estate Hatzimichalis Pair with grilled meats, Mediterranean cuisine. food-friendly red with a distinctive, expressive flair. Merlot-Merlot (Atalanti Valley); $20. Plum 86 Imported by Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. Imported by Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. and black cherry on the nose and mocha, vanilla and spice on the palate give this Merlot wide appeal. Vaeni NV Makedonikos Red Semi-Dry Palivou 2004 Ammos Terra Leone Single Medium-bodied, easy-drinking and modern, the red is Wine (Macedonia); $11. For full review see Vineyard Selection Agiorgitiko (Nemea); a solid, if somewhat straightforward, selection. Pair with 88 87 page 13. Best Buy. $45. A darker, denser red that offers chocolate, black game, poultry. Imported by Athenee Importers. —S.K. fruit and spice on the nose and palate. A spin of nutty Hatzimichalis 2006 Domaine Hatzimichalis spice and dried fruit punctuates the cherry and raisin Kapnias (Atalanti Valley); $37. Allspice, fruit. Slightly Port-like and heavier, this wine will soften OTHER RED WINES 86 pepper and violet on the nose is followed by sweet with time in the bottle. Imported by Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. Boutari 2008 Filiria (Goumenissa); $35. cedar, cigar box and cherry. The wine has an ageable 89 Black cherry, violet and pepper on the nose lead character and a serious bent. Pair with grilled meat, Nasiakos 2008 Agiorgitiko (); into a spirited red blend of spicy pepper, leather and stews. Imported by Athenee Importers. —S.K. $14. Pretty aromas of vanilla, blackberry and red fruit. Ageable and elegant, this wine balances 86 Hatzimichalis 2007 Estate Hatzimichalis currant are followed by rounded black fruit flavors. indigenous character with accessible style. Imported by Hints of violet and spiced nuts add character. A wine Terlato Wines International. —S.K. 85 Syrah (Atalanti Valley); $25. The nose stands with a delicate touch, it can be enjoyed alone or paired out on this Greek Syrah, with its elegant waves of anise, with lighter dishes like fish or pork. Imported by Stellar Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2008 Amethystos blackberry and cinnamon. Flavors of blueberry, cedar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. 89 (Drama); $25. Red berry fruits and blackberry and pepper are fresh and focused. Easy-drinking and a aromas give this red blend from Drama a lively start. good solo sipper. Imported by Athenee Importers. — On the palate, red currant, cedar, tobacco and fresh S.K. XINOMAVRO acidity are balanced and clean. An elegant wine with a spin of punchy spice, it will pair well with game, grilled Konstantinos Winery 2008 Ampelou gis Vaeni 2006 Xinomavro (Naoussa); $15. meat and aged cheeses. Imported by Nestor Imports. 85 (Messinia); $15. Soft waves of cherry, plum, 87 Pleasing from the start, this wine starts with —S.K. clove and tobacco on the nose and tongue highlight this bright notes of cherry and dried fruit, followed by a red blend from Greece. Not overly complicated, it medium-bodied, firm blend of pepper, strawberry and Lyrarakis 2007 Oak Aged Cabernet-Mer- offers a friendly entrée into Greek reds. Pair with black cherry. Restrained and fresh, it can age or be 89 lot (Crete); $30. Blackberry, violet and cherry grilled chicken, burgers, pizza. Imported by Trireme drunk now. Imported by Stellar Importing Company, on the nose leads into smooth flavors of spice, black Imports. —S.K. LLC. —S.K. fruit and raspberry on the palate. This wine is elegant with a clean finish. A hint of violet gives it added class. Domaine Foivos 2010 Myesis Initiation Dalamara 2005 Paliokalias Xinomavro An impressive go-to red. Imported by Stellar Importing 84 (); $20. Black cherry, cigarbox and 86 (Naoussa); $24. An appealing nose of cinna- Company, LLC. —S.K. balsamic on the nose is followed by red currant, leather mon, cedar and allspice is followed by masculine, and cherry on the palate. A touch of lean minerality focused flavors of leather, tobacco leaf, cherry and spice Lyrarakis 2007 Plakoura Vineyard Oak and lots of acidity give the wine a plucky kick. If you on this plucky red. Give it some time in the glass and 89 Aged Mandilari (Crete); $30. This wine is like leaner-style reds with an exotic flair, this wine is for

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 you. Imported by Stellar Importing Company, LLC. — Greek Wine Cellars 2010 Assyrtico (San- Domaine Foivos 2010 Robola (Cephalo- S.K. 85 torini); $14. A pretty, expressive nose of fresh 87 nia); $18. Tropical fruit, vanilla and flowers on flowers, citrus and kiwi gives this added the nose give this Robola a unique start. The wine Achaia Clauss NV Demestica Red (Greece); appeal. On the palate, slightly sweet tropical fruit and offers fresh yet lush flavors of apricot, citrus and tropi- $10. 83 Rich waves of red berries and cinnamon flowers will appeal to fans of a less bracing style of cal fruit on the palate, finishing ripe and rich. A luscious spice lead this soft, dry red. On the palate, it’s slightly white. Pair with poultry, fruit. Imported by Nestor wine with refined character. Imported by Stellar aimless with quiet berry fruit flavors and a spin of min- Imports. —S.K. Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. erals. This is an easy-drinking red that’s nice with cheese and tomato-based dishes. Imported by Stellar Domaine Sigalas 2010 Asirtiko- (San- Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. RODITIS 87 torini); $18. This fuller-bodied white blend Tetramythos 2009 Roditis (Patras); $13. offers pineapple, kiwi and citrus on the nose, and a ROSÉ WINES blend of full fruit and acidity on the palate. A balanced, 89 This wine is a real find, with its crisp green apple, floral and citrus aromas and blend of curvy trop- easygoing white that is perfect for everyday poultry, Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2009 Amethystos ical fruit and crisp acidity on the palate. Distinctive, vegetable and fish meals. Imported by Diamond Rosé (Drama); $19. Vanilla, strawberry and 89 lush but refreshing, it’s both balanced and complex. A Importers Inc. —S.K. cherry on the nose leads into a spicy but balanced blend delicious white with Greek character. Imported by of fresh and fruity flavors. The wine offers ample min- Trireme Imports. Best Buy. —S.K. Hatzimichalis 2010 Domaine Hatzimichalis erality so it’s clean on the tongue. Delightful and flirty, 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Atalanti Valley); $30. and good with fruit desserts. Imported by Nestor Kouros 2010 Rhoditis Roditis (Nemea); Bright, lively and full of aromatic, floral flair, this bal- Imports. —S.K. 86 $13. The floral, lush nose of this white is fol- anced Sauv Blanc offers bright acidity with curvy fruit, Vaeni NV Makedonikos Semi-Dry Wine lowed by waves of orange, lemon and kiwi. The wine is giving it versatility with fish, poultry and salads. Flirty 84 Rosé (Macedonia); $11. This semi-dry rosé focused and simple, with an everyday appeal. Imported and easygoing. Imported by Athenee Importers. —S.K. offers strawberry, rhubarb and a touch of medicinal by Nestor Imports. —S.K. spice on the nose, followed by strawberry and sweet Lyrarakis 2010 Plyto (Crete); $20. The soft cherry on the palate. A hint of spice livens things. Oenoforos 2010 Asprolithi Roditis 87 but exotic nose of tropical fruit and citrus leads Imported by Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. 86 (Patras); $15. This Roditis starts with a lovely, into an elegant array of mouthwatering citrus and trop- aromatic nose of tropical fruit and lemon, followed by a ical fruit on this wine. Rich but lively on the finish, it’s a fuller bodied wave of pineapple, citrus and spice. Finish classy sip for a warm-weather patio party. Imported by GREEK WHITES is lingering and fresh. An approachable expression of a Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. fine, ancient grape. Imported by Nestor Imports. — ASSYRTICO S.K. Dimitra 2010 Geromilos Farms (Messinia); $14. Toasty aromas are followed by flavors of Domaine Sigalas 2010 Assyrtico (San- 86 fresh white fruit and nuts on the palate. The wine has a 92 torini); $24. For full review see page 7. CHARDONNAY leaner character than one might expect from the nose Domaine Sigalas 2009 Barrel Assyrtico Hatzimichalis 2009 Estate Hatzimichalis but is fresh, clean and appealing. A nice everyday white. 90 (); $28. Flavorful and balanced, this 86 Chardonnay (Atalanti Valley); $22. Buttery Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K. refreshing white offers lemon and orange on the nose spice and fresh citrus aromas lead this likeable white. and palate, lifted by a salty spin. Great acid and fruit Sea salt, graphite and ripe organs on the palate offer Hatzimichalis 2009 Estate Hatzimichalis combination with a crisp, spirited finish. A delicious, crisp yet rounded flavors. A spicy finish seals the deal. 86 Veriki (Atalanti Valley); $26. This white versatile wine that is best with grilled fish and poultry. Pair with fresh fish, fruit. Imported by Athenee blend offers bright aromas and flavors of grapefruit, Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Importers. —S.K. pear and green apple. There’s also an interesting floral note here as well which balances the leaner fruits. The Boutari 2010 Assyrtico (Santorini); $20. Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2010 Château wine finishes crisp with a minerally lime spin. Pair with This modern white starts with aromas of peach, 88 Julia Chardonnay (Drama); $15. Fresh raw oysters, grilled fish or chicken. Imported by Athe- lemon zest and tropical fruit, with a rich and rounded 85 lemon and banana aromas lead this curvy white from fruit palate. Crisp acidity finishes the wine cleanly. A nee Importers. —S.K. Greece. Pineapple and citrus flavors are balanced by a versatile wine with wide appeal. Imported by Terlato touch of spice. Overall the wine is a commercial, Wines International. —S.K. Lyrarakis 2010 Dafni (Crete); $20. This friendly-style Chardonnay for fans of easy-drinking 85 ancient variety marches to the of its own Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2009 Château whites. Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K. drum, with aromas of spearmint, citrus and sea salt and 87 Julia Assyrtico (Drama); $20. The nose on flavors of mint, dried herb and lemon. Balanced acidity this white is soft and creamy, with a burst of fresh fruit. OTHER DRY WHITES and an overall rounded fruit character means it goes Flavors of tropical fruit and melon on the palate are well with a variety of dishes, from grilled sardines to integrated and fresh. A white with poise and everyday Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2010 Amethystos creamy poultry dishes. Imported by Stellar Importing appeal, to be paired with grilled fish and chicken Company, LLC. —S.K. Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K. 90 (Drama); $20. This assertive blend of Sauvi- gnon Blanc, Assyrtiko and Sémillon offers an appealing Lyrarakis 2010 Okto Dry White Wine Domaine Sigalas 2009 Kavalieros Single nose of melon, lemon and peach, with a rounded blend 85 (Crete); $18. This wine has a feminine touch, 87 Vineyard Assyrtico (Santorini); $35. This of melon and citrus flavors. Fresh acidity and spice give single-vineyard white is dominated by the lemon spice it . Delightful and versatile, this is a delicious go-to with its floral, aromatic nose and delicate flavors of and salt that pronounces a Santorini white. Lean and wine for summer. Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K. flowers, citrus and melon. Pretty and quiet, it will pair zesty, it’s a focused white with a slate finish. Good for well with more subdued fare such a fruit, salads and grilled fish, and extremely refreshing on a hot day. Lyrarakis 2010 Vilana (Crete); $13. For full mild cheeses. Imported by Stellar Importing Company, Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. 88 review see page 13. Best Buy. —S.K. LLC. —S.K.

WineMag.com | 19 BUYING I GUIDE

Imported by Terlato Wines International. Cellar calm down for the wine to be at its best. Imported by SWEET WHITES Selection. —R.V. Terlato Wines International. —R.V.

Domaine Sigalas 2004 VinSanto (San- Louis Latour 2009 Corton-Charlemagne; Joseph Drouhin 2008 Marquis de Laguiche 91 torini); $49/500 ml. Exotic aromas of coconut, 94 $129. For full review see page 4. 93 Morgeot Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montra- honey and spice start this unique wine from Sigalas. chet); $99. For full review see page 5. Cellar Selec- On the palate, waves of lemon, coconut and vanilla are Louis Latour 2009 Les Demoiselles (Cheva- tion. balanced by acidity and spice. Delicious, and unfolding 94 lier-Montrachet); $320. Intensely ripe wine, on the tongue, it has its own distinct personality, with a with melon and pear flavors, spiced with just the right Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Perrières faraway flair. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. amount of wood and structured fruit skin tannins. So 92 Premier Cru (Meursault); $234. A precise Editors’ Choice. —S.K. classy, this is a beautiful wine, boasting the richness of wine, with a structure of great acidit and fresh fruit, 2009 while still keeping a sense of nervy texture. which has a fine balance between yellow fruits and Domaine Foivos 2003 Stalactite (Muscat Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. pointed pink grapefruit. Its texture is such that it will 87 of Kefallonian); $30/500 ml. This Muscat age well over several years. Imported by Frederick offers luscious honey, lemon and tropical fruit on the Louis Latour 2009 Criots-Bâtard-Montra- Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. nose, with viscous waves of lemon, pineapple and 93 chet; $240. So elegant, soft, ripe and gener- warming spice on the palate. Not overly complex but ous. The initial take is that it is open in character. Then Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Les Com- certainly appealing. Pair with creamy cheeses and fruit. the more taut, nervy, apple skin and toast flavors come 92 bettes Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet); Imported by Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. into the balance to give a wine with considerable aging $166. This is delicious already, with ripe yellow fruit potential. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. flavors and layers of wood. There is a good tension Lyrarakis NV Malvasia of Crete Naturally between the sweet ripe fruit and the very textured acid- 85 Sweet Wine Malvasia (Crete); $45/500 ml. Louis Latour 2009 Bâtard-Montrachet; ity. For aging, but drinkable soon. Imported by Freder- Pineapple, pear and honey on the nose are followed by 93 $299. Very mineral, textured wine, its acidity ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. tropical fruit and melon on the palate. Sweet and fruity and taut green fruit flavors firmly in evidence. It has with a honeyed finish, it’s not the most sophisticated some of the richness and opulence of the vintage, with Joseph Drouhin 2008 Les Folatières Pre- wine in the world, but will please fans of sweeter styles. great swathes of ripe yellow fruits developing. For long- 92 mier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet); $89. A Imported by Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. term aging. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. warm, rich wine, with cream and butter flavors lying over the more textured acidity. The wood is just notice- able, adding its smoky character to the yellow fruits and CYPRUS PREMIERS CRUS citrus. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.

WHITE WINE Joseph Drouhin 2008 Clos des Mouches Louis Latour 2009 Les Folatières Premier 94 Premier Cru (Beaune); $100. With its famed 92 Cru (Puligny-Montrachet); $85. This wonder- K&K Vasilikon 2010 Xynisteri (Pafos); $16. medieval script label, this is classic wine from Drouhin. ful, mineral wine boasts the ripe apricot and peach fruits 85 This Cypriot white has a rich, lemony nose and This 2008 has all the typical buttery richness while also of the year combined with a taut texture, well-integrated on the palate, a delicate array of white and yellow fruit. showing structure, texture and an impressive edge of wood and a great waft of citrus to close. Imported by The finish is crisp and clean, but overall, the wine has tension. For aging six years or more. Imported by Drey- Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. some weight. A good everyday white made from an fus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ancient grape. Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K. Louis Latour 2009 La Maltroie Premier Cru Alex Gambal 2009 La Maltroie Premier Cru 92 (Chassagne-Montrachet); $70. An attractive 93 (Chassagne-Montrachet); $75. A beautifully wine, with open, generous fruit and a structure that WHITE BURGUNDY structured wine, with a great zingy, tangy edge to the exhibits mineral texture through which green fruits citrus and toast flavors. It’s ripe, packed with melon and emerge. At this stage, there is still a youthful tightness. GRANDS CRUS pear flavors. Impressive. Imported by Ruby Wines Inc. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. —R.V. Louis Latour 2009 Montrachet; $440. For Roux Père et Fils 2008 Les Macherelles Pre- 95 full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. Camille Giroud 2008 Le Champ Gain Pre- 92 mier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet); $NA. 93 mier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet); $100. Richly structured and intense wine, its white fruits Alex Gambal 2009 Corton-Charlemagne; Offering both richness and absolute freshness, the wine locked into a tight texture, powered by acidity as well as 94 $150. Typically powerful, very rich in the 2009 layers ripe white and yellow fruits aromas, citrus and a chalky, tangy character. The wine has long-term aging vintage, the structure buried in ripe, sweet fruit. Tropi- creamed apple flavors and a great line of mineral tex- potential. Imported by Misa Imports. Cellar Selec- cal fruits—pineapple and mango—and smoky toast all ture. Give this six years in the cellar. Imported by Veri- tion. —R.V. lead to a finish that is fresh and bright. Imported by tas Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. Camille Giroud 2008 Les Vergers Premier Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Les Folatières 91 Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet); $92. Very Camille Giroud 2008 Corton-Charlemagne; 93 Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet); $120. mineral in character, the wine has grapefruit and orange 94 $166. Ripe, concentrated wine that doesn’t lose Great mineral wine, with wonderful lemon and pineap- peel characters. It’s taut, linear in style, with a lively sight of the tight, fresh fruit of the vintage. So there ple flavors. The texture is light, balancing wood, acidity acidity that cuts through the citrus and green apple are powerful yellow fruits, pink grapefruit and intense and crisp fresh fruit. The wine has all the elements for fruits. Imported by Veritas Imports. —R.V. acidity seguing to a pure, crisp finish. Imported by Ver- aging. Imported by Terlato Wines International. Cellar itas Imports. —R.V. Selection. —R.V. Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Clos des 91 Mouches Premier Cru (Beaune); $110. Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Corton Ver- Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Les Chenevottes Ripe, soft wine, the acidity integrated into sweet white 94 gennes; $150. A rich and opulent wine from 93 Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet); fruit and cantaloupe melon flavors. It does have a tang the neighbor of Corton-Charlemagne. Its weight and $100. An enticing mix of toast and white fruit aromas of structure, toast and wonderful final freshness. For balancing texture gives the wine considerable power follows through to rich apricot and ripe pear flavors, aging over 3–4 years. Imported by Terlato Wines Inter- and density of fruit, toast and a structure for aging. spiced with the creamy toast. The wood does need to national. —R.V.

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Santenots $NA. With its dry-laid stone walls that look likes a dog’s Joseph Drouhin 2008 Puligny-Montrachet; 91 Premier Cru (Meursault); $122. Opulent, teeth, this strangely named vineyard has produced an 90 $52. A rich, buttery wine, with classic mineral ripe wine, powered by richness and yellow fruit flavors. almost mineral wine, although with rounded sweet fruits and citrus characters. Very taut and tight, while layering There is also a mineral tang, with grapefruit and citrus and well-integrated acidity. It will need time to develop fresh fruit flavors. Crisp and rounded at the same time. that sits well as the core of this otherwise rich, concen- its full weight. Imported by Misa Imports. —R.V. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. trated wine. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Domaine Bertagna 2008 Les Cras Premier Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Chassagne- 88 Cru (Vougeot); $115. Ripe, tropical-fruited 89 Montrachet; $65. Aromas of ripe yellow fruits Louis Latour 2009 Les Truffières Premier wine, with apricot and peach and layers of toasty wood. announce a wine that has rich fruit flavors of apricots 91 Cru (Puligny-Montrachet); $75. Closed at The wine is fresh, finely balanced, finishing with a cit- touched by pineapple. It does have the attractive, nervy this stage, the wine has acidity, minerality and the rus hint. Imported by Palm Bay International. —R.V. texture of 2008, along with an important layer of toast. potential of ripe pear and apricot fruit flavors. The Imported by Terlato Wines International. —R.V. wood is showing strongly but will integrate, while the Louis Latour 2009 Goutte d’Or Premier Cru texture promises good aging. Imported by Louis Latour 88 (Meursault); $75. A soft wine, ripe and open. Roux Père et Fils 2009 Les Chaumes (Chas- Inc. —R.V. What it lacks in structure and longevity it makes up for 89 sagne-Montrachet); $NA. Still very closed in its already approachable, deliciously ripe fruit. up, this austere wine has distinct aging potential, with Roux Père et Fils 2009 Clos des Poruzots Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. its taut character, apple skin texture and hints of wood. 91 Premier Cru (Meursault); $NA. This nor- It will need 3–4 years to show its best. Imported by mally rich Meursault has gone into overdrive in 2009, Louis Latour 2009 Charmes Premier Cru Misa Imports. —R.V. producing a superopulent wine. It does, however, bal- 88 (Meursault); $75. Open and charming as its ance that with fine acidity and a mineral edge. It opens name suggests, the wine is ripe and soft. The acidity is Alex Gambal 2009 Fixin; $37. A rare white slowly to give its apple and peach fruits. Imported by somewhat lost in the sweet, almost tropical fruit. 88 from Fixin, in the north of the Côte de Nuits, Misa Imports. —R.V. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. this is ripe in character, very fruity and soft. There are touches of acidity as well as hints of lemon juice. The Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 2009 Le Roux Père et Fils 2009 Les Cortons Premier wine has final touches of wood spice and green pepper. Cailleret Premier Cru (Puligny-Montra- 90 Cru (Saint-Aubin); $NA. Ripe and full bodied, Imported by Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. chet); $200. Fat and textured wine, pushing towards 88 with flavors of toast and white peach. It is round, the tropical fruit end of the spectrum, with sweetness, smooth, with some buttery character and a juicy citrus Domaine Dujac 2009 Morey Saint-Denis; pineapple and ripe peach flavors. It does have a mineral flavor on the finish. Imported by Wine Warehouse $80. A rare white wine from Morey Saint- edge, with butter and toast undertones. Imported by 88 Imports. —R.V. Denis, with great acidity and freshness. The wine is North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. bright, with lemon crispness, and light hints of wood. Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Champs Imported by The Sorting Table. —R.V. Domaine Dujac 2009 Premier Cru (Morey Pimont Premier Cru (Beaune); $79. This is Saint-Denis); $100. Structured wine, packed 87 90 rounded and soft, with wood and spice flavors. There’s Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Clos de with acidity, fresh lemon fruits, layered with peach and an intriguing touch of ginger, along with a salty, mineral Mazeray (Meursault); $95. Rich in charac- pineapple. It’s a delicious wine, both ripe and tangy. 88 character. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, ter, with big citrus, pineapple and pink grapefruit fla- Imported by The Sorting Table. —R.V. Ltd. —R.V. vors. Even if it is rich, the wine also gives freshness as Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Clos de la well as acidity to balance the full-bodied texture. Louis Latour 2009 Aux Cras Premier Cru Feguine Premier Cru (Beaune); $92. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 90 (Beaune); $45. Touched by wood, the wine has fine acidity with bright 87 A rich and opulent wine, with Joseph Drouhin 2008 Meursault; $44. white fruits and hints of yellow fruits to go with the min- an attractive balancing citrus character. It has acidity, eral character as well as the delicious grapefruit edge. pineapple and dried apricot flavors. Imported by Louis 88 Drouhin has a great ability to capture a village Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Latour Inc. —R.V. style, and this Meursault, with its soft ripe fruits, is no exception. It does have some of the tang and mineral Louis Latour 2009 La Garenne Premier Cru character of 2008, while still managing to have a touch VILLAGES WINES of butter and creamed apple. Imported by Dreyfus, 90 (Puligny-Montrachet); $70. A bright, toasty wine, with the ripe fruits of the vintage and characteris- Ashby & Co. —R.V. tics from the wood giving extra richness to this finely Alex Gambal 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet; structured, mineral-textured wine. Imported by Louis 90 $62. Initially soft, this wine’s real mineral char- Louis Latour 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet; Latour Inc. —R.V. acter only comes through slowly. The wine has richness 88 $65. A soft and open wine, its acidity layered and weight. Very textured, it could age well for 3–4 between sweet pineapple, green plums and lychee. Louis Latour 2009 Morgeot Premier Cru years. Imported by Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. Intensely fruity, developing fast. Imported by Louis 90 (Puligny-Montrachet); $70. Very rich, still Latour Inc. —R.V. closed up, this is a wine that is packed with toasty wood. Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Puligny-Montra- The fruit that is developing has flavors of sweet pear 90 chet; $65. Well structured, with a strong min- Louis Latour 2009 Puligny-Montrachet; and pineapple, while the acidity comes through slowly, eral element, this wine has richness and is packed with 88 $65. An open wine, relatively light in character, softly. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. peach, apricot and crisp red apple flavors. The wood is with apple and grapefruit flavors laced with toast and already well integrated, a support to the richness of the some butter, and a taut final structure. Imported by Louis Latour 2009 Château de Blagny Pre- wine. Imported by Terlato Wines International. —R.V. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. 90 mier Cru (Meursault-Blagny); $70. There is great richness here. The wine is ripe, concentrated with Joseph Drouhin 2008 Chassagne-Montra- Roux Père et Fils 2009 La Pucelle (Saint- bright green fruits as well as a good mineral structure. 90 chet; $56. A big, ripe wine that also keeps an 88 Aubin); $NA. Rounded, with a great dash of Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. edgy character, typical of the year. It has a fine contrast acidity, this lemon- and pineapple-flavored wine has a between full apple and pear fruits and a zesty tang of fine balance of acidity and ripe fruit. It benefited from Roux Père et Fils 2009 Les Murgers des acidity and texture. It does need a few months’ aging. the cool climate of Saint-Aubin in the warm 2009 con- 90 Dents de Chien Premier Cru (Saint-Aubin); Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. ditions. Imported by Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V.

WineMag.com | 21 BUYING I GUIDE

Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Meursault; $60. Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Montmains Pre- it, without great definition or character. Ready to drink 87 Classic Meursault, big and bold with a rounded 90 mier Cru (Chablis); $35. A soft, textured wine now. Imported by Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. texture. That said, the wine does have a crisp edge of that is still developing. Pear and white currant flavors green apples to balance the spiced toast, which is very offer acidity and fruit, while there is a good chalk dust evident at this stage. Imported by Terlato Wines Inter- edge. It needs another year to develop. Imported by REGIONAL WINES national. —R.V. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Alex Gambal 2009 Chardonnay (Bour- Joseph Drouhin 2008 Rully; $20. Soft and Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Mont de Milieu 86 gogne); $27. An attractively soft wine, with 87 warm, with toast and butter adding richness to 88 Premier Cru (Chablis); $40. The 2009 warmth good acidity and a fresh citrus character. Very fresh, the white peach and green plum fruits. The acidity and shows in this rich wine, which tastes more southerly in very forward and fruity, with just a touch of toast. For texture are very evident, giving this wine a certain nerv- character. But it has the proper mineral edge to it, with drinking now. Imported by Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. ous energy. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. citrusy acids showing through on the finish. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Roux Père et Fils 2010 Les Murelles Louis Latour 2009 Meursault; $45. A warm, 85 Chardonnay (Bourgogne); $NA. A simple, 86 generous wine, full of ripe fruits. There is Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Chablis; $22. A great fruity Chardonnay, ripe with pear flavors and a lacing of weight, richness and generosity here, although not a 87 success, showing ripe fruit and smoothness, lime. It is round, warm, soft, ready to drink in a few great depth of flavor. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. laced with fine acidity. It has a creamy, toasty feel, rich months. Imported by Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. —R.V. green plums and a rounded warm texture. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Chardonnay (Bour- 85 gogne); $16. A soft wine, light and fresh with CHABLIS attractive white fruits and acidity. Ready to drink, it fin- MACONNAIS ishes with just a touch of yeastiness. Imported by Louis Simonnet-Febvre 2008 Preuses Grand Cru Latour Inc. —R.V. Domaine de la Croix Senaillet 2009 Sur la (Chablis); $70. This powerful wine reveals its 93 Carrière (Saint-Véran); $NA. style and breeding from the start. It has weight and 88 Superripe and concentration allied to great tangy fruit flavors. The rich, very creamy, buttery and with a significant amount OTHER BURGUNDY WINES nervy edge is very evident, with wood, structure from of toasty oak. The wine is open and generous, although retaining acidity and citric flavors. Imported by Kysela Simonnet-Febvre 2007 Crémant de Bour- green apple skins and aging potential. Imported by Père et Fils. —R.V. gogne; $25. Crisp sparkling Burgundy, laced Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 89 with taut acidity and hints of nuts and toast. This is a Domaine de la Croix Senaillet 2009 Les Simonnet-Febvre 2008 Blanchots Grand wine under tension, with a strong mineral element, cool Buis (Saint-Véran); $NA. Gently soft and ripe, and fresh, best with food. Imported by Louis Latour Cru (Chablis); $70. Taut and edgy, very steely in 88 93 full of creamed pear and red apple flavors. There is a Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. character, with almost an austere character in its youth. touch of structure as well to give an edge to it, leaving a Its fruits are definitely on the citrus side of the spectrum, warm glow of rich fruit on the finish. Imported by Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Sauvignon (Saint crisp yet rich as well. The acidity shoots right through the Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. Bris); $13. Richer than previous releases, this wine. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. 85 Sauvignon Blanc goes for a more tropical view of the Vins Auvigue 2009 Elisabeth Hugary La grape, very ripe and perfumed. For drinking now. Simonnet-Febvre 2008 Les Clos Grand Cru Frérie (Pouilly-Fuissé); $35. A fine, steely Screwcap. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. (Chablis); $70. For full review see page 6. Cel- 88 93 wine, with bursts of acidity cutting through the green lar Selection. apple and citrus flavors. Very textured, mineral and with a fine linear character. For aging a year. Imported by RED BURGUNDY Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Les Clos Grand Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. 92 Cru (Chablis); $85. Serious, concentrated fruit GRANDS CRUS and structure on this grand cru Chablis. White fruits, Domaine de la Croix Senaillet 2009 Saint- laced with lime and rounded with some toast, all con- 87 Véran; $NA. Ripe, smooth and creamy, this Domaine Dujac 2009 Bonnes-Mares; $344. tribute to a powerful, complex wine. Imported by Ter- wine has a rich texture to it. Tropical fruits, featuring 97 Firm, but so generous and elegant. There is an lato Wines International. —R.V. flavors of mango and pineapple, give it an exotic feel, ethereal perfumed character, along with mineral and although it is firmly held in place by acidity. Imported earth notes. The tannins are integrating well in this Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Vaillons Premier by Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. powerful, impressive, ageworthy wine. Imported by 91 Cru (Chablis); $30. For full review see page 9. The Sorting Table. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Roux Père et Fils 2009 Pouilly-Fuissé; $NA. Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Montmains Pre- 87 Attractive lemon aromas mark a wine that shows Domaine Dujac 2009 Echézeaux; $280. 90 mier Cru (Chablis); $45. Soft for a Chablis, the richness of 2009, soft and open. Flavors of ripe apri- 96 This bautifully perfumed wine shows structure, leaning more to Burgundy proper with its rich toast and cots join kiwi fruit acidity, finishing with a touch of dark tannins as well as great charm. The acidity is lay- butter character. There is some minerality to give struc- wood and butter. Imported by Wine Warehouse ered with black fruits and dry tannins. Age for 7–8 years ture, the apple fruit coming to the fore as the wine Imports. —R.V. or more. Imported by The Sorting Table. —R.V. opens up. Imported by Terlato Wines International. — R.V. Vins Auvigue 2009 Elisabeth Hugary Les Domaine Dujac 2009 Clos de la Roche; 85 Chênes (Saint-Véran); $24. A rounded wine, 96 $304. Very opulent, very rich, this is a complex, Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Montée de Ton- with acidity, an edge of lime juice and some buttery char- structured wine packed with fruit and brooding tan- 90 nerre Premier Cru (Chablis); $37. Finely tex- acter. A gentle Chardonnay, ready for drinking over the nins. It is already rich, and will develop into a beauti- tured, with great minerality as well as ripe fruit. Flavors next year. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. fully intense, concentrated and generous wine. range from peach to lime, a reflection of the warm vin- Imported by The Sorting Table. —R.V. tage and the chalk soil. Acidity is important, giving a Domaine de la Croix Senaillet 2009 contrast to the richness. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. 83 Mâcon-Davayé; $NA. Round in the mouth, Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Musigny; —R.V. soft and ripe, this wine has a warm, full-bodied feel to 96 $510. A sumptuous wine, rich in bright red

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 fruits, with a structure and depth of flavor to match. Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 2009 Corton centrated wine, with dense black fruits balanced by The wine is gorgeously ripe, opening its heart quickly. 94 Bressandes; $163. Dense, weighty and con- acidity. There is ripeness here, with a firm, ageworthy Acidity, bitter chocolate and dark cherries go with the centrated now, this wine will become opulent once the structure as well as delicious juicy Pinot Noir character. tannic core to promise long aging. Imported by Freder- surface tannins finally integrate. The wine is superrich, Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. with chocolate and licorice partnering with the intense fruit. Imported by North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. Louis Latour 2009 Cuvée Héritiers Latour Alex Gambal 2009 Chambertin; $335. A big 92 (Chambertin); $279. An elegant wine, marked 95 and structured wine, packed with firm, powerful Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 2009 Corton by fresh black fruits under the tannins. It is also gener- tannins. There is sweet fruit underneath all this density, 94 Clos du Roi; $163. A powerful wine, very ous, offering richness and structure, the acidity rounded waiting to develop as the wine ages. Smoky wood and a structured with wood, coffee notes and dark tannins. It out by all the ripe fruit. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. dark brooding character dominate this impressive wine. feels extracted, although the weight of fruit is certainly —R.V. Imported by Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. enough to handle that. It’s for the long haul, a concen- trated wine that needs at least 10 years. Imported by Louis Latour 2009 Clos Vougeot; $260. Cellar Selection. Camille Giroud 2008 Chambertin; $272. A North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. 92 Concentrated, dense, with dark tannins. There is considerable power behind the rich fruit with its fla- massive wine, firmly structured with dense and 95 Domaine Jacques Prieur 2008 Corton Bres- vors of ripe strawberries and black cherries. For aging. powerful tannins. This is a wine for long-term aging, sandes; $299. Very ripe, rich, structured wine, Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. with its dark black fruits and chunky feel. It is still just 94 exuding power and concentration. It is packed with red starting out; cellar for 10 years. Imported by Veritas fruits and damsons, creating a juicy character and tense Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. mineral acidity. A magnificent wine, for aging. PREMIERS CRUS Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Domaine Dujac 2009 Clos de Saint-Denis; Selection. —R.V. Domaine Dujac 2009 Les Beaux-Monts $304. 95 A very rich wine, showing all the opulence 94 Premier Cru (Vosne-Romanée); $236. With of 2009. Black plums, damsons and wood flavors are Camille Giroud 2008 Latricières Cham- great richness, almost opulence, great ripe red fruits already combined and integrated. The acidity in all this 93 bertin; $185. A wine that is very mineral, very are folded into a powerful dark structure. The tannins richness and power seems low, leaving the tannins to structured in its tannins, the black fruits flavors a are right up front, long-lasting and very structured. The support aging. Imported by The Sorting Table. —R.V. straight line cut through with acidity. For long-term final acidity offers freshness to a wine that will need aging over 8–10 years. Imported by Veritas Imports. — aging. Imported by The Sorting Table. —R.V. Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Chambertin; R.V. 95 $NA. A powerful, classic Chambertin, intensely Domaine Dujac 2009 Les Malconsorts Pre- structured and tannic. The sweet black fruit is poten- Camille Giroud 2008 Corton Le Rognet; 94 mier Cru (Vosne-Romanée); $276. All tan- tially enormous, still finding its place among the tan- 93 $120. An impressively powerful wine, with nins and black fruits, this is a powerful wine. It is tough, nins. Spice, with a mineral streak, gives the wine added packed acidity, sweet fruits and ripe tannins. The wine very structured, firm and closed up. The acidity domi- complexity. Very dense in texture, this will age 10 years has great density, a dusty texture, the fruit powering nates the red fruits on the finish. It has immense prom- and many more. Imported by Frederick Wildman & through while preserving the relative austerity of the ise for the long term. Imported by The Sorting Table. Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. vintage. Imported by Veritas Imports. —R.V. Cellar Selection. —R.V.

Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Echézeaux; Domaine Bertagna 2009 Clos Vougeot; Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Clos de San- 95 $370. A structured wine, with great density of 93 $250. A wine with great weight, density and 94 tenots Premier Cru (Volnay); $149. This fruit, richness of texture and at the same time acidity. structure from a well-positioned parcel of vines. The monopole (single owner vineyard) has produced a wine Its black fruit and red berry flavors are pure and very juicy plum flavors affirm the potential for opulence as of great depth and concentration, packed with black linear while also giving the wine a full-bodied character. the wine ages. Imported by Palm Bay International. — fruits, berries and a smoky wood character. It’s an Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. R.V. impressive wine, very rich and with sufficient layered acidity. Very ageworthy. Imported by Frederick Wild- Domaine Jacques Prieur 2008 Clos Alex Gambal 2009 Clos Vougeot; $190. A man & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Vougeot; $203. powerfully rich wine that shows all the open, 93 Impressively rich and dense, 94 Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 2009 Clos de la generous nature of 2009 reds. It is concentrated, dense, with dark plum and sweet fruits signalling opulence. The wine has power and intensity although it never Bousse d’Or Premier Cru (Volnay); $146. giving firm tannins as well as more fleshy, spicy charac- 93 loses the acidity of the vintage. Imported by Frederick Firmly tannic wine, with balancing ripe fruit well under ter. There is wood, but more prominent is the black- Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. the structured layers. The weight of the wine comes berry fruit and superripe fruit tannins. Imported by from the rich and generous black plum fruit and acidity. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. Louis Latour 2009 Charmes Chambertin; A wine for long-term aging. Imported by North Berke- $359. Firmly structured wine, which also boasts ley Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Camille Giroud 2008 Charmes Chambertin; 93 delicious jammy fruit, very ripe, very opulent. The tan- $168. 94 A solid structure and layers of dense fruit nins are sweet and rich, suggesting aging potential over Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 2009 En characterize this wine. Rich acidity, red cherry flavor 7–8 years and more. An impressive wine. Imported by 93 Caillerets Premier Cru (Volnay); $130. For a and a dry, dark tannic core are surrounded by juicy red Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Volnay, this is a very structured wine. It has huge rich- berry fruits and the freshest finish. Imported by Veritas ness laced with firm tannins and dark fruits. It is the Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Louis Latour 2009 Les Quatre Journaux firmness that dominates, suggesting some extra extrac- 93 (Romanée-St.-Vivant); $425. Black cherry tion, although the acidity does push right through to Domaine Bertagna 2008 Clos Saint-Denis; juice vies with a dense structure in this powerful wine. the finish. Imported by North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. 94 $250. A finely balanced wine, with acidity, a It has layers of tannins and sweetness. This is a firm, soft texture, new wood and flavors of cocoa and smoke. solid wine packed inside velvet. Age for 10 years and Domaine Dujac 2009 Les Combottes Pre- There is beautiful red cherry fruit, laced with spice and more. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. 93 mier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin); $224. All buried tannins for aging. Keep this impressive wine for the proper structure of young Gevrey-Chambertin with 6–7 years. Imported by Palm Bay International. Cellar Louis Latour 2009 Château Corton the addition of rich, generous fruit. The core is of wood Selection. —R.V. 93 Grancey (Corton); $129. An intense and con- and dry fruit tannins, the fruit of rich black plum juice.

WineMag.com | 23 BUYING I GUIDE

At this stage, the wine is firm. Give it 5–6 years to open Domaine Dujac 2009 Premier Cru (Morey soft texture. It is approachable, packed with ripe red up. Imported by The Sorting Table. Cellar Selection. 92 Saint-Denis); $96. Big, tannic and fruity, giv- fruits in an attractive juicy texture. The finish has entic- —R.V. ing an intense structure of black plums laced with sweet ing acidity. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. raspberries. It exudes richness and power, generous Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Beaune while also firm. Imported by The Sorting Table. —R.V. Camille Giroud 2008 Les Cent Vignes Pre- 93 Grèves Premier Cru (Beaune); $NA. There is 90 mier Cru (Beaune); $50. The wine is ripe for rich fruit behind the severe opening tannins, giving a Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Premier Cru the year, with some structural tannins followed by acid- sumptuous although firmly structured wine. The rasp- 92 (Gevrey-Chambertin); $128. From young ity and sweet,juicy berry fruits. It has a lightness of berry and crushed strawberry flavors are developing vines in Chambertin, this is big and generous, showing touch, the fruit floating over the structure. Imported by well, ready to balance with the tannins after another the richness of the year as well as its depth of fruit. Veritas Imports. —R.V. year. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. — Firm tannins help to give the wine shape. Imported by R.V. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Domaine Bertagna 2009 Les Murgers Pre- 90 mier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges); $100. Rich Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Champans Domaine Jacques Prieur 2008 Grèves Pre- while also structured, this is a black cherry powerhouse mier Cru (Beaune); $82. Rich, with concen- Premier Cru (Volnay); $138. Rich, opulent 92 of a wine. The wine has weight, a foursquare feel, very 93 trated dark plum and spice flavors, laced with the and spicy, with a great balance between wood and fruit. up front and solid. For aging over 5–6 years. Imported acidity of the vintage and a firm, dry character. It really The generous black plum and black currant fruit is deli- by Palm Bay International. —R.V. needs aging, but already shows impressive style. cious, balanced by taut acidity. Keep for 3-4 years. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 2009 Les Jarol- lières Premier Cru (Pommard); $134. Selection. —R.V. 90 Firmly Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Champs tannic and very ripe, with great acidity and firm dark Pimont Premier Cru (Beaune); $76. Initially Alex Gambal 2009 Les Charmes Premier 92 plum and berry fruits. The wine’s structure is domi- austere, then showing rich sweet fruit over a solid struc- 92 Cru (Chambolle-Musigny); $125. Great den- nant, promising long-term aging. Imported by North ture. The wine offers considerable aging potential with Berkeley Imports. —R.V. sity here, with firm tannins and big fruit flavors, very its strong tannic character, while it already shows a deli- generous and opulent, while also structured. The whole cious, more gentle side. Imported by Frederick Wild- Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Clos de la wine is suffused with black plum sweetness. It is also man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Feguine Premier Cru (Beaune); $82. Com- ageworthy. Imported by Ruby Wines Inc. Cellar Selec- 90 bines velvety richness with a lightness of touch and ripe tion. —R.V. Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Clos des raspberry fruits. The wine is delicious, smooth, soft and Mouches Premier Cru (Beaune); $105. Bril- 91 opulent. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Camille Giroud 2008 Les Vaucrains Premier liant red cherry aromas and flavors are allied to gentle —R.V. 92 Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges); $96. With smoky tannins and a sweet jammy character. A hint of wood is aromas and strict tannins, this is initially an austere integrating well. Imported by Terlato Wines Interna- Louis Latour 2009 Epenots Premier Cru wine. The fruit remains firm and tight, very powerful, tional. —R.V. (Pommard); $85. A powerful wine, with firm while the final acidity gives a delicious, more juicy 90 tannins and light blackberry fruit. The wine is stern, finale. Imported by Veritas Imports. —R.V. Domaine Bertagna 2008 Clos de la Per- concentrated, with dark tannins as well as fresh acidity. rière Premier Cru (Vougeot); $115. This is 91 Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Beaune Grèves seriously structured and firm, with smoky wood influ- Premier Cru (Beaune); $70. ences and red berry concentration giving a fine balance 92 Edged with min- Louis Latour 2009 Les Petits Monts Pre- erality, this structured wine has rich red plum and black between fruity acidity and the tight tannins. Imported mier Cru (Vosne-Romanée); $175. Per- by Palm Bay International. —R.V. 90 cherry fruit, acidity and a definite wood flavor at this fumed wine, very ripe as well as structured, packed stage. It is powerful and concentrated, the wood and with fresh raspberry and wild strawberry flavors. The fruit tannins important. Imported by Terlato Wines Domaine Bertagna 2008 Les Beaux-Monts Premier Cru (Vosne-Romanée); $100. tannins are balanced within this sweet, rich wine. International. —R.V. 91 Pure, generous, red cherry fruit scintillates over a structured Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. wine that has dense tannins and texture. The whole is Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Clos de Fèves Roux Père et Fils 2007 Les Petits Vougeot Premier Cru (Beaune); $95. Showing auster- pierced with the dominant acidity of 2008. Imported by 92 Palm Bay International. —R.V. 90 Premier Cru (Vougeot); $NA. This wine has ity via its tannins, this is a severe wine despite its red richness with some good, firm tannins and dark plum berry fruit. It has layers of wood and a dry core. Age for Domaine Jacques Prieur 2008 Champs skin flavors. It shows good structure with a jammy, ripe six years or more. Imported by Terlato Wines Interna- Pimont Premier Cru (Beaune); $67. A ripe, element as well as attractive juiciness. Age for 3–4 tional. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 91 pure wine of red fruit around a core of toast, domi- years. Imported by Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. nated by vital acidity and an edge of dry tannins. The Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 2009 Clos wine is linear, finely balanced, fruity and exuberant. Roux Père et Fils 2008 Les Charmes Pre- d’Audignac Premier Cru (Volnay); $146. 92 Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 90 mier Cru (Chambolle-Musigny); $NA. Very From vines around the winery of Pousse d’Or, this is ripe, although with a considerable amount of acidity as ripe and generous, with fine tannins, hints of wood and Louis Latour 2009 Les Cazetiers Premier well as rich plum and strawberry fruits. Its structure extract as well as great red cherry acidity. For midterm 91 Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin); $140. Firmly gives it some dryness while the acidity sparks its juicy aging. Imported by North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. structured, with tannins and solid, dense fruit flavors. character. For aging over 3–4 years and more. Imported At the same time, the texture is jammy, rich, with black by Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 2009 Clos des plum flavors bursting through the tannins. In five years 92 60 Ouvrées Premier Cru (Volnay); $155. A this will be rich and generous. Imported by Louis Roux Père et Fils 2007 Les Charmes Pre- delicious, soft wine, packed with ripe, almost sweet red Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 90 mier Cru (Chambolle-Musigny); $NA. Les fruits. More complexity comes from the integrated Charmes lives up to its name with this wine. It’s soft wood and acidity, although approachability is the dom- Louis Latour 2009 Les Chatelots Premier and ripe and welcoming, with juicy raspberry flavors inant character. Imported by North Berkeley Imports. 91 Cru (Chambolle-Musigny); $135. A charm- and tannins to provide balance. Imported by Wine —R.V. ing and rich wine, with tannins that nestle within the Warehouse Imports. —R.V.

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Camille Giroud 2008 Aux Cras Premier Cru ripe character. The wine is soft, open and already acces- nins. It is generous, open in character, packed with red 89 (Beaune); $56. With crushed strawberry and sible. Imported by Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. fruits. Imported by Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. caramel flavors, this is relatively light wine, though ele- gant and pierced with acidity. Milk chocolate and soft Camille Giroud 2008 La Croix aux Moines Camille Giroud 2008 Vosne-Romanée; $74. tannins complete an attractive ensemble. Imported by 87 Premier Cru (Maranges); $37. Soft, ripe 90 Very structured, dense wine, while also revel- Veritas Imports. —R.V. wine, packed with berry fruits and red cherries. The ing in its ripe red fruits and bright acidity. The tannins structure is less impressive; this is for those who want a are well integrated already into the fruit. Keep for 2–3 Louis Latour 2009 Les Damodes Premier waft of Pinot Noir juiciness. Imported by Veritas years. Imported by Veritas Imports. —R.V. 89 Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges); $115. Concen- Imports. —R.V. trated, with dark tannins to go with the ripe fruit. There Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 2009 Cham- is a tough edge to the wine, although it more accessible Roux Père et Fils 2008 Les Petits Vougeot 90 bolle-Musigny; $118. A voluptuous wine, than some Nuits-Saint-Georges at this stage. Imported 87 Premier Cru (Vougeot); $NA. Light in color, very perfumed and ripe, full of strawberry fruits and by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. the wine lacks the structure of Vougeot, instead giving sweetness, as if from crushed red berries. Delicious simple fresh fruit. The tannins are there, subdued and already, while it will age well over 5–6 years. Imported Louis Latour 2009 En Chevret Premier Cru mingling with the fresh berry fruits. Already drinkable. by North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. 89 (Volnay); $65. Soft, ripe and rich, this is very Imported by Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. easy on the palate. The wine does have good depth of Dujac Fils & Pere 2009 Morey Saint-Denis; flavor from the rounded black cherry flavors, the fruit Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 2009 Clos 90 $76. Structured and dense, with layered tan- almost sweet in its openness. It is already delicious. 86 Tavannes Premier Cru (Santenay); $88. nins and an austere edge. At the same time, the fruit Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Dark chocolate notes join acidity and ripe black fruit packs concentrated strawberry flavors, acidity and com- flavors. The wood is dominant in this relatively soft plexities from textured wood. Imported by The Sorting Roux Père et Fils 2008 Les Borniques Pre- wine, although the fruit juiciness comes through well to Table. —R.V. 89 mier Cru (Chambolle-Musigny); $NA. A finish. Imported by North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. tight, tannic wine, showing considerable acidity as well Domaine Bertagna 2009 Le Village Roux Père et Fils 2008 Les Valozières Pre- as fresh red fruits. The wine is densely packed with dry (Vougeot); $65. A rich full-bodied wine, with mier Cru (Aloxe-Corton); $NA. 89 tannins, then a fruity character develops, sparked by 86 A wine that cherry aromas and sweet fruit flavors. The tannins are feels warm, although with important layers of tannin acidity. Imported by Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. buried in this sweet, soft, velvet wine. For medium-term and structure. The red cherry fruit gives a juicy, as well aging. Imported by Palm Bay International. —R.V. Alex Gambal 2009 En Chevret Premier Cru as pepper, character to the wine. Full, ripe and with excellent acidity. Imported by Wine Warehouse (Volnay); $65. Soft fruit, with a tannic hint Dujac Fils & Pere 2009 Chambolle- 88 Imports. —R.V. underneath. The wine is supported at this stage by 89 Musigny; $76. This perfumed wine has a soft, wood, while the fruit has strawberry jam sweetness. The almost buttery texture, with red currant fruits and opu- acidity and structure really only come through at the VILLAGES WINES lent tannins. It shows great richness, yet is probably not end. Imported by Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. for long-term aging. Imported by The Sorting Table. Alex Gambal 2009 Vieilles Vignes (Vosne- —R.V. Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Savigny-Domin- Romanée); $72. Smoky aromas introduce a ode Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune); 91 Joseph Drouhin 2008 Chambolle-Musigny; 88 wine that is structured and concentrated, with intense $55. A soft wine, although there is a more austere side $62. Pure, ripe strawberry flavors are pierced fruit and acidity. Firm tannins, a subtle touch of wood 89 to it. The tannins push through the red berry fruits and with acidity. The texture is soft, with a dry side. The and fine richness all combine mellifluously. Imported cut the acidity that dominates the finish. Imported by by Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. raspberry acidity cuts right to the end. Imported by Terlato Wines International. —R.V. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. Camille Giroud 2008 Les Crais (Gevrey- Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Santenots Joseph Drouhin 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin; Chambertin); $56. For a Gevrey, this wine Premier Cru (Volnay); $128. 91 $46. 88 Produced from emphasizes softness rather than structure. It does have 89 A powerful, concentrated wine, pushing young vines, this fresh, fruity wine offers immediate good depth of flavor and is full of acidity and red berry tannins while also showing great berry fruits and fine, pleasure, with red berries and sweet fruit flavors over a fruits. The wine offers pleasure now, while having juicy acidity. It does need to age to soften the tannins. spicy layer of wood and a soft, generous texture. medium-term aging potential. Imported by Veritas Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. Joseph Drouhin 2008 Volnay; $41. For the Louis Latour 2009 Vignes Franches Pre- Domaine Dujac 2009 Morey Saint-Denis; 88 vintage, this is a rich wine, enjoying the Volnay 88 mier Cru (Beaune); $65. Soft and rich, typical 91 $96. This powerful wine packs its rich fruit and roundness and velvet textures. The fruit is of sweet of the vintage. There is an attractive sweetness of acidity into a tight structure of sweet tannins. It is raspberries with lively acidity that cuts an edge in this crushed red fruits to go with the acidity. At the same designed for aging, with its powerful texture and red cushioned wine. Age for a few months, but it is showing time, there is the structure for medium-term aging. berries layered with plum skin and damsons. Imported well now. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. by The Sorting Table. —R.V. Joseph Drouhin 2008 Pommard; $45. Finely Roux Père et Fils 2007 Les Valozières Pre- Dujac Fils & Pere 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin; 88 perfumed, with berry fruits that freshen the 88 mier Cru (Aloxe-Corton); $NA. A very struc- 91 $76. With dense, dusty tannins as well as great more severe tannins. The wine has concentrated struc- tured wine that seems ready for aging. Its tannins are bright red fruits, this is a wine that has weight and rich- ture, smokiness as well as fresh acidity. The finish is dry still firmly present, lying over the dark black fruit. Acid- ness, while still going through a severe stage. It has and firm. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. ity gives the wine a rich, juicy finish. Imported by Wine power and structure. Age for 3–4 years. Imported by Warehouse Imports. —R.V. The Sorting Table. —R.V. Chanson Père et Fils 2008 Nuits-St.- 87 Georges; $60. A chunky wine, packed with Roux Père et Fils 2009 Bearegard Premier Alex Gambal 2009 Chambolle-Musigny; tannins that fill out the dark plum and black cherry 88 Cru (Santenay); $NA. Like a freshly picked 90 $66. An elegant wine, typical of Chambolle- fruits. It’s solid, if on the dry side, with fine acidity. cherry, all juicy fruit with sweet and a jammy, Musigny—finely perfumed with red fruits and soft tan- Imported by Terlato Wines International. —R.V.

WineMag.com | 25 BUYING I GUIDE

Domaine Jacques Prieur 2009 Clos de with zesty red fruit, sassy spice, leather and toasted 87 Mazeray (Meursault); $91. Ripe and gener- PIEDMONT espresso bean. What really sets this wine apart is the ous, with well-integrated wood and sweet fruit, layers of dense smoothness of its texture. Save this bottle in your strawberry and soft spice. Fresh acidity provides the BAROLO cellar 10 years or more. Imported by Maisons Marques balance. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. & Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. —M.L. —R.V. Cantina Bartolo Mascarello 2007 Barolo; 96 $NA. Mascarello presents an outstanding 2007 Silvio Grasso 2007 Ciabot Manzoni Alex Gambal 2009 Chorey-lès-Beaune; base Barolo (with fruit sourced from the Barolo and La 95 (Barolo); $93. This is a wine to fall immedi- Morra zones) that is packed extra tight with generosity, 86 $45. An attractive, open-fruited wine, with ately in love with. How can anyone resist this density, concentration and rich chocolate, cherry and leather fresh raspberry acidity—very Pinot in its juiciness and richness in color and concentration? Black spice and aromas. The long finish is soft and velvety, but the tan- red fruit flavors. Imported by Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. mature fruit aromas are woven around delicate touches nins and acidity guarantee a long future ahead. of red rose, cherry cola and mesquite smoke. The wine’s Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections. Cellar Louis Latour 2009 Aloxe-Corton; $45. With generous persistency can be counted in many long min- Selection. —M.L. utes. Drink after 2018. A Marc de Grazia selection; var- 86 its tannins, this is initially a firm wine, but then ious American importers. Cellar Selection. —M.L. ripe berry fruits emerge, followed by great acidity and Cordero di Montezemolo 2007 Bricco Gat- freshness. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. 96 tera (Barolo); $NA. This is an exceptional Andrea Oberto 2007 Vigneto Brunate wine that will leave a mark, and a memory, with those 94 (Barolo); $NA. Dark concentration and an inky REGIONAL WINES who drink it. It’s irresistible because of its brilliant, but black appearance characterize the appearance of this simple, philosophy. Traditional Nebbiolo tones of cola, bold and beautiful Barolo. On the nose, the wine offers licorice and pressed violets are set beautifully against an enticing bouquet peppered with notes of cola, men- Camille Giroud 2008 Côte de Beaune- modern tones of spice, chocolate and vanilla. It’s the thol, wet earth, cured beef, plum and drying minerals. Villages; $30. A fresh, juicy wine, with attrac- 88 integration of these two extremes that make this Barolo Drink after 2018. Imported by Chambers & Chambers. tive acidity, red berry flavors and a layer of well so important. Imported by Omniwines Distribution. Cellar Selection. —M.L. balanced tannins. Very perfumed, with hints of mineral Cellar Selection. —M.L. and final acidity. Imported by Veritas Imports. —R.V. Cascina Adelaide 2007 Preda (Barolo); $86. Aurelio Settimo 2007 Rocche dell’Annun- Cascina Adelaide’s wines always stand out in a ziata (Barolo); $65. Wonderful, this is a wine 94 Domaine Bertagna 2009 Les Dames 95 crowd thanks to the spicy oak elements this vintner that will blow you away. It’s magnificent on all levels, 87 Huguettes (Côte de Nuits-Villages); $30. proudly displays. Barolo Preda follows suit and opens from its complexity to its long endurance on the palate. Rich and full in the mouth, packed with red fruits and with sweet clove and cinnamon backed by red cherry, Aromas of red fruit, roasted coffee bean, smoked black cherries. The wine is sweet, while keeping a tan- cassis and prune. It’s a luscious, soft and textured wine pancetta and soft spice build in intensity and bright- nic core. Drink next year. Imported by Palm Bay Inter- that can be consumed soon (in 3–5 years) or aged longer ness the longer the wine stays in the glass. Firm, velvety national. —R.V. in your cellar. Imported by Tesori Wines. —M.L. tannins promise long aging potential. Imported by Mas- ciarelli Wine Co. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Domaine Bertagna 2008 Les Dames Cascina Ballarin 2007 Bussia (Barolo); $NA. Huguettes (Côte de Nuits-Villages); $25. 86 Ceretto 2007 Bricco Rocche Prapó (Barolo); 94 This beautifully bold and opulent Barolo opens with dark extraction and super-soft aromas of melted Soft, perfumed and ripe, piled with acidity and some $NA. One of the best wines to emerge from the 95 milk chocolate, red cherry, vanilla cream, cinnamon and sweetness. Fresh red cherries pour out of the glass, Italian peninsula, this beautiful Barolo delivers dark, sen- dark spice. The mouthfeel is rich and soft with sweet along with final crispness. Imported by Palm Bay Inter- sual concentration, a firm but silky feel and sophisticated national. —R.V. aromas of mature fruit, sandalwood, exotic spice, dried cherry flavors on the close. Imported by Ideal Wine rose petal, licorice, dried herbs and cola. It’s a solid, gor- and Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. Joseph Drouhin 2008 Côte de Beaune- geous wine with very long aging potential. Imported by Ceretto 2007 Bricco Rocche Brunate 86 Villages; $22. A perfumed wine, concentrated Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L. while soft in texture. It is the sort of wine that rolls 94 (Barolo); $NA. Blockbuster intensity is deliv- amply around the mouth. The edge of tannins is just to Eugenio Bocchino 2007 La Serra (Barolo); ered here in part thanks to the dense soils and concen- give point to the red fruits and acidity. Imported by 95 $NA. A “wow” wine that hits high marks in trated style associated with the Brunate cru, and in part due to the warmth and power of the 2007 vintage. Lin- Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. terms of intensity, complexity and overall appeal. The bouquet is colored by shadings of berry fruit, cola, gering tones of vanilla, sweet spice, red cherry and soft Alex Gambal 2009 Pinot Noir (Bourgogne); licorice, dry earth, spice, toasted nut and root beer. It’s a chocolate fuel a long, luscious finish. Imported by Wil- son Daniels Ltd. —M.L. 85 $30. Rich, sweet and soft, with a strawberry jam bright and beautiful ensemble with a long aging future ahead. Imported by Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L. character, and just the right balance of acidity. Drink Cordero di Montezemolo 2007 Enrico VI now. Imported by Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. Marchesi di Barolo 2007 Cannubi (Barolo); 94 (Barolo); $NA. Barolo Enrico VI is a gorgeous $135. wine that oozes intensity, depth and impressive aro- Roux Père et Fils 2009 Côte de Beaune- 95 Almost over the top, this beautiful Barolo from the most celebrated cru of them all—the iconic matic complexity. There is a modern twist evident here Villages; $NA. A fresh and juicy wine, full of 85 Cannubi vineyard—delivers maximum pleasure and in the form of toasted nut and spice aromas, but true to red fruits as well as striking acidity. The tannins are soft, intensity. This is a soft and velvety wine, with cherry, the Nebbiolo grape, the wine also shows nuanced layers but do offer a core of firm dryness. For aging over the cassis, leather, moist tobacco and licorice aromas over of hummus, cola and chopped mint. Drink after 2018. next two years. Imported by Wine Warehouse Imports. extracted concentration and tight tannins. The wine Imported by Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. —R.V. needs more time to age and once it does, it can be paired with beef or aged cheeses. Imported by Wine Cordero di Montezemolo 2005 Gorette Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Pinot Noir (Bour- Wave. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 94 Riserva (Barolo); $NA. Gorette Riserva is a 84 gogne); $16. This lightweight red is on the blockbuster wine with big oak tones of spice and toast herbal side, although with attractive bitter-cherry fla- Pio Cesare 2007 Barolo; $65. Pio Cesare and in the background of vibrant aromas of red cherry, vors and some fresh acidity. Imported by Louis Latour 95 the 2007 vintage marry beautifully to produce a blackberry and cassis. What really sets this wine apart, Inc. —R.V. layered, opulent, textured, rich wine that is bursting however, is the plushness and richness of its finely tex-

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 tured mouthfeel. Imported by Omniwines Distribution. La Querciola 2007 Donna Bianca (Barolo); tion. Already present, however, are tonic tones of red —M.L. 94 $55. What a wonderful surprise! Barolo Donna cherry, coffee, mocha, spice and cured meat. Imported Bianca is a beautiful wine with a long list of special by Vintage Imports, Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Damilano 2007 Brunate (Barolo); $88. For attributes. First is the wine’s complexity, which shines 94 full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. through in the many aromas, from pressed violets to Silvio Grasso 2007 Bricco Luciani (Barolo); Indian spice. Second is the wine’s natural richness and 94 $74. This is a beautiful wine that exhibits seduc- Fontanafredda 2007 Serralunga d’Alba smoothness of texture. Third is its ability to age a long tively dark concentration and bright aromas of red 94 (Barolo); $45. For full review see page 4. Cel- time in your cellar. Imported by Vignaioli. Cellar berries, cola and licorice that are characteristic of the lar Selection. Selection. —M.L. Nebbiolo grape. The tannins show a polished, silky nature and will continue to evolve over long years of Fratelli Alessandria 2007 Monvigliero Marchesi di Barolo 2007 Sarmassa cellar aging. A Marc de Grazia selection; various Amer- 94 (Barolo); $70. Barolo Monvigliero is a standout 94 (Barolo); $130. The Sarmassa cru consistently ican importers. Cellar Selection. —M.L. wine that fully encompasses the greater philosophy of delivers some of the best Barolos on the market, and the 2007 vintage. This opulent and seriously delicious this opulent expression from Marchesi di Barolo proves Vietti 2007 Brunate (Barolo); $130. Vietti’s wine opens with dark, brooding concentration and the point. The wine exhibits modern aromas of choco- 94 iconic Barolo from the Brunate cru deserves a sweet oak and berry fruit aromas followed by vanilla, late, black cherry, coffee and Spanish cedar. The special spot in your cellar collection. The wine delivers leather and tobacco. Pulpy fruit flavors help move the mouthfeel is soft, plush and rich. Imported by Wine power and heft thanks to ideal vineyard conditions in wine smoothly over the palate. Drink in 5–10 years to Wave. —M.L. 2007. It also exhibits the vintner’s unique style, in which let the tannic structure subside. Imported by Villa oak tones are set against the delicate aromas associated Italia. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Negretti 2004 Bricco Ambrogio (Barolo); with quality Nebbiolo. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery 94 $60. For full review see page 4. Direct. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Fratelli Casetta 2007 Vigna Case Nere 94 (Barolo); $NA. An impressive effort from a Pio Cesare 2007 Ornato (Barolo); $115. Vietti 2007 Lazzarito (Barolo); $130. This boutique producer, this gorgeous Barolo delivers deep 94 Ornato is an opulent, modern expression of 94 is a delicious wine on all levels. Lazzarito opens complexity in the form of forest fruit, white cherry, wet Barolo with lush oak tones that will require at least 10 in a bold, masculine style with overtones of ripe cherry earth, wild mushroom, licorice and drying mineral more years to find perfect harmony. The 2007 vintage fruit, leather and cured beef jerky. The wine then tones. The mouthfeel is tight and elegant, and you offers extra pulp and chewy cherry concentration that segues to soft, textured tannins with power and extra this wine upholds very successfully. You’ll love the length on the close. It’s impossible not to fall in love won’t find a better match to creamy risotto with porcini plumpness and overall chocolaty richness available with a wine of this caliber. Imported by Dalla Terra mushrooms. Drink in 5–10 years. Imported by Sober here. Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines Winery Direct. —M.L. LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.L. USA. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Andrea Oberto 2007 Vigneto Rocche Giacomo Grimaldi 2007 Sotto Castello di Podere Rocche dei Manzoni 2007 Vigna (Barolo); $NA. There’s a special elegance and Novello (Barolo); $NA. Barolo Sotto Castello 93 94 d’la Roul (Barolo); $NA. A wine to fall imme- finesse evident in this pretty expression of Nebbiolo. di Novello is a gorgeous wine with opulent chocolate 94 diately in love with, this vineyard-designated Barolo Fine aroma of cola, white cherry and black pepper are and cherry notes backed by rich texture and concentra- opens with dark extraction and superintense aromas of featured on the bouquet. In the mouth, this Barolo tion. This wine shows long aging potential thanks to the cola, cedar, licorice, plum and teriyaki sauce. Oak ele- delivers strength, structure and endurance. Imported brightness of its fruit, its natural complexity and the ments of spice and toast are also evident and will fall by Chambers & Chambers. —M.L. beautiful power of the mouthfeel. A Marc de Grazia into the background as the wine ages in your cellar. selection; various American importers. Cellar Selec- Save for 5–10 years. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Aurelio Settimo 2007 Barolo; $55. You’ll tion. —M.L. Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 93 love the powerful richness and natural concen- tration of this beautiful Barolo. It boasts masculine ren- Giacomo Vico 2006 Barolo; $35. Giacomo Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2007 Costa Grimaldi derings of cherry liqueur, carob pod, red rose and sassy 94 Vico presents a beautiful Barolo with gorgeous 94 (Barolo); $86. You’ll want to give this beautiful cinnamon spice. The wine shows great aging potential intensity and extremely elegant lines that characterize Barolo 5–10 more years to age in your cellar. At this (10 years or more) thanks to its firm tannins and fresh both the bouquet and mouthfeel. Aromas of cola, early stage in its life, Costa Grimaldi shows amazing acidity. Imported by Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. cherry, soya, tobacco and cedar are followed by firm, potential thanks to its aromas of big red fruit and spice. drying tannins. Imported by World Wine Discoveries. Don’t let those initial impressions mislead you. After a Brezza 2007 Cannubi (Barolo); $NA. —M.L. few minutes in the glass, the wine shows impressive 93 Brezza’s finely nuanced Cannubi expression of complexity and endurance. Imported by Empson Nebbiolo delivers sweet spice tones of cinnamon, clove Gianni Gagliardo 2007 Cannubi (Barolo); (USA) Ltd. —M.L. and nutmeg followed by delicate tones of root beer, 94 $138. Gianni Gagliardo is part of an elite group drying mineral, soy sauce and forest fruit. The wine is of vintners that represents a new and exciting genera- Renato Ratti 2007 Conca (Barolo); $80. For fine, compact and chiseled on the close with a long, tion in Barolo. This Nebbiolo from the Cannubi cru is a 94 full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. structured finish. It’s very elegant overall. Imported by top-shelf wine, with elegant and austere tones of berry Admiralty Beverage. Cellar Selection. —M.L. fruit, menthol, cola, balsam, teriyaki sauce and tar. Hold Renato Ratti 2007 Rocche (Barolo); $95. for 10 years or more. Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. 94 This thick, and darkly concentrated Barolo Brezza 2007 Bricco Sarmassa (Barolo); Cellar Selection. —M.L. offers a wide range of aromas and evident complexity. It 93 $NA. Here’s a beautiful Barolo that exhibits a boasts a very polished, smooth feel in the mouth that is compact, streamlined style that would pair with lighter- Grimaldi Bruna 2007 Badarina (Barolo); reinforced by the natural firmness of the noble Nebbi- colored meats such as pork or veal. There are pretty 94 $52. Barolo Badarina deserves praise for the olo grape. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. earthy notes of wild mushroom and dried fruit followed intensity of its aromas and the fine quality of its by ethereal tones of soy and cola. Drink after 2018. mouthfeel. Bold oak tones of spice and toasted hazel- Rivetto 2007 Serralunga (Barolo); $NA. An Imported by Admiralty Beverage. —M.L. nut will soon fall to the back of the wine’s bright fruit 94 up-and-coming star of Barolo Serralunga, Riv- and cola flavors. Give it time, patience and drink after etto delivers a super-sized wine with immense concen- Bric Cenciurio 2007 Barolo; $NA. Here’s 2018. Imported by Premium Brands. Cellar Selec- tration and rock-solid structure. In fact, this wine needs 93 another shining star from the 2007 vintage of tion. —M.L. another 10–15 years of aging to complete its long evolu- Barolo. This classic expression of Nebbiolo opens with

WineMag.com | 27 BUYING I GUIDE dark concentration and a masculine feel created by the by exotic spice and smoked bacon, this is an elegant and Massimo Penna 2007 Barolo; $NA. This wine’s plush and velvety texture. Lingering tones of complex Barolo. After a while in the glass, you’ll notice 93 Barolo opens with a ruby-garnet color and spice, chocolate, espresso, plum and prune appear on those fine mineral tones that characterize the Cannubi earthy aromas of wild mushroom, root beer, cedar the finish. Imported by Italia Wine Imports. —M.L. cru and that give this wine both backbone and personal- wood, licorice and cola. The wine shows great richness ity. Imported by Indigenous Selections. —M.L. and a touch of sweet fruit woven within its thick, solid Bric Cenciurio 2007 Coste di Rose (Barolo); structure. —M.L. 93 $NA. Barolo Coste di Rose is a darkly concen- Elvio Cogno 2007 Ravera (Barolo); $75. For trated and rich wine with sweet spice overtones of 93 full review see page 5. Massolino 2007 Parafada (Barolo); $NA. If clove, licorice and cinnamon over cherry fruit and rasp- 93 you love the biggest and boldest of Barolos, this berry. There’s a soft, chewy quality to the mouthfeel Fontanafredda 2007 Vigna La Rosa beautiful wine is for you. It puts forth power and deter- that is typical of wines from the 2007 vintage. Imported 93 (Barolo); $115. For full review see page 5. mination with confidence thanks to its aromas of barbe- by Italia Wine Imports. —M.L. cue spice, mesquite, roasted espresso bean, vanilla and Germano Angelo 2007 Vigna Rué (Barolo); ripe red cherry. Give it five more years. Imported by Cascina Chicco 2007 Rocche di Castelletto 93 $NA. Barolo Vigna Rué is a meaty, beefy Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. 93 (Barolo); $74. From the Monforte d’Alba area expression of Nebbiolo with generous tones of leather of Barolo, this deeply concentrated and rich wine is and tobacco backed by red cherry, spice, smoked beef Michele Chiarlo 2007 Cerequio (Barolo); etched by sharp aromas of licorice, black pepper, red jerky and soy sauce. Dark fruit concentration helps pad $104. Michele Chiarlo’s Cerequio is one of the cherry, chocolate, leather and cigar box. The mouth- 93 against the fresh oak tones that are also evident (and important wines that defines Barolo, past and present. feel, with its soft, velvety tannins, is particularly pleasur- that will surely soften with more bottle aging). This historic bottle offers consistency and longevity able. Drink after 2015. Imported by Vinifera Imports. Imported by K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L. thanks to its aromas of spice, cola, red fruit, cigar box —M.L. and licorice. In keeping with Nebbiolo tradition, it Giacomo Grimaldi 2007 Le Coste (Barolo); offers a tight, streamlined feel. Imported by Kobrand. Cascina Luisin 2007 Leon (Barolo); $54. $NA. 93 Barolo Le Coste is a masculine, taut —M.L. 93 Barolo Leon opens with inky, dark concentra- expression of Nebbiolo with dark color and concentra- tion and succulent ripe fruit tones of cherry, prunes and tion set against aromas of cured meat, bresaola, sweet cassis. The bold tannic structure, coupled with zesty Michele Chiarlo 2007 Cannubi (Barolo); oak, toasted nut and sweet red cherry. The wine could 93 $104. This beautiful expression of Nebbiolo acidity and drying mineral tones, suggest this wine has a age 4–6 years more to give its tight tannins a slightly long evolution ahead. Imported by Zig Zagando. Cellar from the Cannubi cru opens with elegant and defined softer edge. A Marc de Grazia selection; various Amer- Selection. —M.L. aromas of forest fruit, white chocolate, drying minerals, ican importers. —M.L. violets and moderate, spicy barbecue-like aromas. The Castello di Verduno 2007 Massara wine shows excellent structure and tight, drying tan- Gianni Gagliardo 2007 Serre (Barolo); $75. (Barolo); $NA. Massara is a gorgeous, seriously nins that need 5–8 more years of cellar aging. Imported 93 Barolo Serre is made with fruit sourced from beautiful expression of Barolo with dark concentration 93 by Kobrand. —M.L. various vineyard sites. This gorgeous wine opens with a that follows straight up to the wine’s rim. Opulent aro- modern touch of sweet spice and toasted nut lavished mas are of forest fruit, cherry cola, licorice, mesquite Mirafiore 2007 Lazzarito (Barolo); $125. over ethereal aromas of cherry liqueur and dark shavings and root beer. The wine has all the qualities for This is a lovely wine that very much lives up to licorice. Drink in 5–10 years. Imported by Enotec 93 a long aging future including acidity, tannins and pulpy the power and thickness associated with Barolo from Imports, Inc. —M.L. fruit tones. Imported by Oliver McCrum Wines. Cellar the Serralunga d’Alba subzone. It opens with big, sweet Selection. —M.L. tones of mature fruit, vanilla spice, dark cola and Marcarini 2007 Brunate (Barolo); $54. For 93 full review see page 6. Cellar Selection. toasted hazelnut. It feels wonderful in the mouth as Ciabot Berton 2007 Ciabot Berton well, thanks to the softness and richness of its texture. (Barolo); $80. This is a lovely wine that is 93 Mario Gagliasso 2007 Torriglione (Barolo); Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates.—M.L. packed tight with spicy oak renderings, chocolate 93 $NA. Representing a stylistic departure with Nutella, almond paste, red fruit and roasted espresso Negretti 2006 Mirau (Barolo); $55. Bold and bean. The wine shows elegant, drying tannins with the past, this edition of Barolo Torriglione offers enor- mous density and richness lavished over a core of ripe 93 beautiful, this elegant expression of Barolo creamy mocha flavors that last long in the mouth. Drink delivers impressive intensity and personality. There’s after 2015. Imported by Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. fruit, chocolate, spice and cola. You’ll enjoy the wonder- ful fullness in the mouth and the spicy, fresh close. great complexity here in the form of cola, black fruit, licorice, cedar and cured meat aromas. Ripe concentra- Damilano 2006 Cerequio (Barolo); Imported by Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. tion and plush fruit flavors help balance out the tight $215/1.5 L. The winemaking team at Dami- 93 tannins. Imported by Delectation Wines. —M.L. lano has produced a gorgeous Cerequio that shows the Marziano Abbona 2007 Terlo Ravera finesse, power and aging potential that makes 2006 93 (Barolo); $65. Barolo Terlo Ravera opens with Pecchenino 2007 San Giuseppe (Barolo); such a cellarworthy vintage. This is a rich, jam-packed soft oak tones that still need time to integrate. But the $NA. Gorgeous fullness and generosity charac- wine with blackberries, mocha, currants and black great promise of this wine are its beautiful layers of ripe 93 licorice overtones. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. berry fruit, cassis, leather, chocolate and toasted terize this bold Barolo as do its aromas of black cherry, coconut. The concentration is inky and thick and the spice, Teriyaki and toasted hazelnut. San Giuseppe Damilano 2006 Liste (Barolo); $85. This finish is very long lasting. Drink after 2018. Imported presents a classic expression of Nebbiolo that is espe- 93 wonderfully elegant cru expression is full bodied by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. cially evident in the fine, polished nature of the mouth- and rich with smoky tones of cedar and tobacco over feel. —M.L. blackberry, cassis and red rose aromas. The tannins are Marziano Abbona 2007 Pressenda big, firm and lend a sturdy, powerful feel in the mouth 93 (Barolo); $60. This is an especially delicious Piazzo Armando 2007 Barolo; $NA. This is that will become silkier and even smoother with time. Barolo that relies on dark concentration and impres- 93 a very impressive expression of Nebbiolo from Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. sive aromatic intensity to make its point. Balsam notes the celebrated 2007 vintage that shows sweet vanilla of cola and root beer are set against bright fruit and and spice tones at the back of blueberry, cassis and E. Pira e Figli (Chiara Boschis) 2007 Can- spice. The wine’s solid structure is enhanced by a soft, cherry cola. The wine shows a softer, more immediate 93 nubi (Barolo); $110. Bright and tonic, with velvety finish. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, quality than compared to past vintages. Imported by vibrant fruit tones of cassis and dried raspberry followed Ltd. —M.L. Angelini Wine. —M.L.

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni 2007 Vigna Alberto Voerzio 2007 La Serra (Barolo); bouquet of this elegant Barolo from the Cannubi cru 93 Cappella di Santo Stefano (Barolo); $NA. 92 $NA. Here’s a traditional and classic Barolo (located immediately outside the town of Barolo in Dark, inky extraction opens this Barolo and segues to with slightly earthy qualities and warming aromas of Piedmont). Smoky ash, sandalwood and cured beef aro- bold aromas of mature berry fruit and spicy oak render- red fruit, prune and blackberry. The wine delivers tight, mas appear on the close. Imported by Bacchanal ings. The wine feels plush, rich and generous in the chewy tannins and would pair with agnolotti (a stuffed Wines. —M.L. mouth but the tightness and astringency of the tannins pasta found in Piedmont) with meat sauce. —M.L. suggest that this wine will be ready in 5-10 years. Contratto 2003 Tenuta Secolo Cerequio Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L. Anselma 2007 Famiglia Anselma (Barolo); 92 (Barolo); $125. From far-away 2003, this ele- 92 $NA. Barolo Famiglia Anselma opens with lus- gant Barolo shows a beautiful evolution in the glass. Podere Ruggeri Corsini 2007 San Pietro cious, dark concentration and spicy tones of clove, pep- The wine warms up with pressed rose petal and dried 93 (Barolo); $50. Ripe berry and mature fruit aro- per and honey-roasted almond. Delicate aromas of raspberry aromas and segues to cedar, cola, mineral and mas of prune and candied cherry open the bouquet of cassis, cola and licorice fill in the back and help build light shadings of spice. A bright close and acidic note this lovely, garnet-colored Barolo. The wine offers endurance and persistency for what is a long, pleasura- hold the hot vintage very nicely. Drink now. Imported excellent intensity and depth with what can best be ble mouthfeel. Imported by Domaine Select Wine by Bedford International. —M.L. described as a lively mouthfeel. Indeed, this wine Estates. —M.L. exudes life, health and brightness. Imported by Damilano 2007 Cannubi (Barolo); $90. For Panebianco. —M.L. Barale Fratelli 2007 Vigna Castellero 92 full review see page 7. 92 (Barolo); $NA. Barolo Castellero opens with Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2007 Nei Cannubi vibrant tones of red cherry and cassis with elegant tones Franco Conterno 2007 Bussia Munie 93 (Barolo); $88. From one of Barolo’s most cele- of licorice, cola, mesquite smoke and dried lavender 92 (Barolo); $NA. This is a delicious wine with brated and historic estates, this elegant Cannubi expres- flowers. It’s a nuanced, feminine expression of Nebbiolo spice overtones lavished over mature fruit and wild sion offers toasted notes of hazelnut, vanilla, cherry and with impressive complexity and solid tannins at the cherry. The liveliness of the fruit is what sets this wine chocolate over a lean, streamlined mouthfeel. The back. Imported by Lo Duca Bros. —M.L. apart, and ultimately guarantees the wine’s longevity. intensity of this wine and its endurance on the palate is More bright berry nuances are woven within the natu- Brovia 2007 Rocche (Barolo); $NA. remarkable. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Barolo ral tightness of the tannins. —M.L. 92 Rocche opens with inky-dark concentration, Principiano Ferdinando 2006 Ravera chewy ripe cherry flavors and lingering hints of cola, Franco Conterno 2005 Bussia Munie Ris- (Barolo); $NA. The Ravera cru is celebrated mint and licorice. The more the wine opens in the glass, 93 erva (Barolo); $NA. This Barolo Riserva deliv- for its power and elegance and this beautiful Barolo the more it evolves aromatically to include tones of bar- 92 ers loads of pleasure and good cheer thanks to those definitely delivers both. The wine shows beautifully lin- becue, mesquite and smoke. Imported by Rosenthal delicious aromas of melted chocolate, vanilla cream and ear aromas of red fruit, blue flower, smoke and exotic Estate . —M.L. bursting red cherry. Ethereal tones of spice, cola and spice backed by bright intensity and firm tannins. licorice color the close and help give dimension to the Imported by Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. Cantine Gemma 2007 Colarej (Barolo); wine’s soft, velvety texture. —M.L. 92 $NA. Barolo Colarej is characterized by dark Rivetto 2005 Leon Riserva (Barolo); $NA. concentration, powdery tannins and bright aromas of Franco Molino Cascina Rocca 2005 Villero Dark color, concentration and supple aromas of forest fruit, cola and exotic spice. The wine presents a 93 Riserva (Barolo); $58. Dark power and con- milk chocolate and mature cherry open the nose of this compact, streamlined style with a blast of fruit intensity 92 centration mark the bouquet of this vineyard-designate pretty Barolo Riserva. The wine boasts a soft, plush feel on the finish. Pair this beautiful wine with game hen Barolo Riserva. Sweet oak tones of spice and clove min- with velvety intensity that would pair with most sophis- and black truffle. —M.L. gle effortlessly with aromas of mature fruit, leather and ticated meat dishes or porcini mushrooms on the grill. black truffle. Firm structure and tight tannins give the Imported by Vintage Imports, Inc. —M.L. Cantine Gemma 2007 Barolo; $NA. From 92 the Serralunga d’Alba area of Barolo production wine a clean, polished feel. Imported by Frank Johnson Rocche Costamagna 2007 Rocche dell’An- (an area known for thicker, denser, more structured Selections. —M.L. nunziata (Barolo); $49. From the Rocche wines) comes this bold and beautiful expression of Neb- 93 Fratelli Alessandria 2007 Gramolere dell’Annunziata subzone, this well-priced Barolo offers biolo. The wine boasts huge intensity and luscious, soft (Barolo); $74. beautifully vibrant aromas of cherry cola, chopped roundness on the close. —M.L. 92 Saffron spice, leather, tobacco, mint, violets and light shadings of exotic spice. In the mesquite and sweet cherry provide the foundation for a mouth, it sports a compact, polished texture. Imported Cascina Ballarin 2007 Bricco Rocca very compelling aromatic bouquet. The wine delivers by Laird & Company. —M.L. 92 (Barolo); $NA. Barolo Bricco Rocca boasts its tight tannins and a chewy finish that needs another 5–10 own personality that puts more focus on broader, hori- years of cellar aging. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L. Stroppiana 2007 Vigna San Giacomo zontal aromas of Graham cracker, dried grass and spice 93 (Barolo); $50. This vineyard-designate Barolo rather than vertical notes of cola and mint. Because of G D Vajra 2007 Albe (Barolo); $38. Barolo opens with rich, dark concentration and opulent aromas its unique traits, this wine would pair with stewed meats 92 Albe opens with very dark concentration and a of toasted almond, Bresaola, red cherry, espresso bean or baked white beans. Imported by Ideal Wine and thick, inky consistency that is peppered with bright aro- and exotic spice. The wine offers a twofold punch of Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. mas of ripe strawberry, raspberry roll-up, prune, spice intensity and complexity with a long, luscious finish to and leather. The close is characterized by sweet berry boot. Drink after 2018 to let those tight tannins unwind. Cascina Cucco 2007 Cerrati Vigna Cucco flavors and this upfront, dense wine will probably be Imported by L.A. Dick Imports. —M.L. 92 (Barolo); $NA. Inky-dark saturation and imme- ready to drink in 2–3 years. Imported by Martin Scott diate aromas of dark fruit, cassis, chocolate, carob seed, Wines. —M.L. Agostino Bosco 2007 Neirane (Barolo); tar, tobacco and licorice offer an excellent first impres- 92 $NA. Barolo Neirane (from the Verduno area of sion. Dark spice and finely ground black pepper accent Germano Ettore 2007 Cerretta (Barolo); the Langhe, Piedmont) offers pretty Nebbiolo complex- the wine’s long, elegant mouthfeel. Drink after 2015. 92 $NA. Soft, ripe cherry and velvety tones of ity with dark concentration and lasting aromas of Imported by Italia Wine Imports. —M.L. spice and nutmeg open the bouquet of this balanced vibrant fruit, dark spice, red rose and cherry cola. The Barolo from the powerful 2007 vintage. The wine shows wine presents a velvety, soft texture in the mouth with a Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2007 Vigneto Can- concentration and power with lingering tones of choco- sweet cherry aftertaste. Imported by Tanaro River 92 nubi (Barolo); $65. Mature cherry fruit with late, espresso and cured meat over a solid structure. Imports LLC. —M.L. renderings of spice, clove and cigar box make up the Imported by K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 29 BUYING I GUIDE

Giovanni Rosso 2007 Serralunga (Barolo); required for long aging potential. There’s structure, Roccheviberti 2007 Rocche di Castiglione 92 $31. Nebbiolo from the Serralunga area of the acidity, minerality and loads of plush, ripe fruit—tones 92 (Barolo); $60. Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is Langhe tends to veer towards bolder concentration, that will evolve in ten years or more. The wine opens a classic wine with crisp lines, great structure and loads dark color and thicker aromatic intensity. This expres- with a dark garnet color and bright aromas of cherry, of complexity. Aromas of spice, red fruit, leather and sion illustrates this trend very nicely and adds its own cassis, cola and soy sauce. Imported by Soilair Selec- tobacco are well integrated and never over the top. The distinct layers of licorice and tar to the overall picture. tion. Cellar Selection. —M.L. finish offers compelling intensity with touches of Imported by Massanois Imports. —M.L. chopped mint and licorice. Imported by Domace Vino. Palladino 2007 Serralunga (Barolo); $51. —M.L. Guido Porro 2007 Vigna S. Caterina 92 From the Serralunga subzone of Barolo, this 92 (Barolo); $44. This vineyard-designate Barolo classic rendition of Nebbiolo opens with an orange-gar- Silvano Bolmida 2007 Vigne dei Fantini opens with focused floral aromas of pressed violets and net color segueing into delicate aromas of licorice, 92 (Barolo); $NA. Barolo Vigne dei Fantini offers rose with perfumed notes of church incense and Span- mesquite, dried prune or plum and drying mineral a brambly note of forest floor and black olive backed by ish cedar. The aromas are presented in a sharp and notes. The wine presents a focused, linear feel in the a distinctive note of mesquite wood and barbecue refined manner and backed by finely textured tannins. mouth. Very nice. Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. sauce. Sweet spice flavors of clove and nutmeg appear Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L. —M.L. on the finish and the wine is well grounded by firm, silky tannins. Imported by Morgan Import LLC. — Guido Porro 2007 Vigna Lazzairasco Palladino 2007 Parafada (Barolo); $65. M.L. (Barolo); $44. A fine wine for dinner parties 92 Barolo Parafada is a lush, meaty and expressive and important family reunions, this bright Barolo 92 wine with power, heft and bright aromas of cured meat, Stroppiana 2007 Gabutti Bussia (Barolo); exudes elegance and finesse thanks to its delicate aro- Bresaola, leather, dried rose, licorice and cola. The wine 92 $60. From the Monforte d’Alba area of Barolo mas of blue flower, dried lavender, cassis and forest presents a solid wall of tannins and gritty firmness that production, this lovely wine shows wonderful intensity berry. The wine is sheer and smooth with taut firmness and a bold, chewy feel. There are ripe fruit aromas, on the close. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Mer- will need at least another five years of bottle aging. Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. meaty notes of beef jerky and ethereal tones of licorice chant. —M.L. and cola. The wine is full and generous in the mouth with a spicy finish. Imported by L.A. Dick Imports. — I Bastioni 2007 I Bastioni (Barolo); $NA. Parusso 2007 Bussia (Barolo); $112. This M.L. 92 This bright Barolo opens with sweet cherry aro- 92 Barolo from the Bussia cru offers pretty oak renderings of spice, cinnamon, vanilla and mesquite mas backed by spice, coffee and full renderings of Tenuta Montanello 2007 Montanello chocolate fudge and espresso cream. I Bastioni is a gen- smoke backed by sweet cherry, raspberry and cola. The (Barolo); $NA. This is a very enjoyable Barolo erous, full-bodied wine that would pair with pork tannins are tight and still bitter, which means they need 92 with sweet, modern tones of oak, toast and spice bal- medallions in fennel sauce. —M.L. another five years or so of cellar aging. Imported by anced with sophisticated tones of cola, red berries and Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. smoky tar. You’ll feel the natural softness and velvety Luigi Pira 2007 Vigna Margheria (Barolo); nature of the 2007 vintage on the tannins of this richly $35. Don’t even think of drinking this wine Parusso 2007 Le Coste Mosconi (Barolo); 92 concentrated wine. —M.L. sooner than ten years from now. Those tight, nervous 92 $95. Barolo Le Coste Mosconi from Monforte tannins need time to slowly unwind and the wine pres- d’Alba offers delicate aromas of dried flowers and Viberti 2007 Rocchettevino (Barolo); $75. ents beautiful aromas of cassis and red cherry that will lavender with bright cherry and wild berries at the This is a terrific Barolo with cooling berry evolve with aging. At the back of it all are steady tones back. The mouthfeel is plush and generous with a very 92 nuances backed by fresh menthol and cola-like aromas of spicy tobacco and leather. Imported by Michael fine texture and a smooth, velvety feel. Imported by that give it a lively, buoyant personality. On the palate, it Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. feels crisp and compact and what it lacks in weight, it makes up for in intensity. Imported by Domace Vino Marchesi di Barolo 2005 Riserva (Barolo); Poderi Colla 2007 Dardi le Rose Bussia LLC —M.L. 92 $135. This Riserva from the 2005 vintage show- 92 (Barolo); $65. Here’s a classic expression of cases elegant tones of cola and licorice supported by Nebbiolo with soft oak tones that have deftly been Virna Borgogno 2007 Cannubi Boschis thicker tones of mature blackberry and moist earth. The worked into the natural fabric of this fruit-forward 92 (Barolo); $75. Barolo Cannubi Boschis (the wine’s medium body and fine texture is successfully wine. The aromas are direct and intense with accents of enhanced by the staying power of those fresh, menthol- designation name refers to which vineyard sites the cola, cherry, licorice and violet. The tannins are sur- like flavors. Imported by Wine Wave. —M.L. fruit was harvested from) opens with a dark, garnet prisingly silky and smooth given how young this wine is. color and intense aromas of soft spice, brown sugar, Imported by Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. Mario Marengo 2007 Barolo; $50. Mario cinnamon and ripe blackberry. This is a masculine, Marengo’s Barolo offers spicy notes of clove and brooding wine with excellent aging potential. Imported 92 Prunotto 2007 Bussia (Barolo); $100. nutmeg at the back of bright berry, cola and coffee. The by Ionia Atlantic. —M.L. Prunotto’s wines are easily available in the wine boasts generous fullness and depth thanks to its 92 United States and make a perfect option for those of us ripe tannins and long, silky feel. Drink in 5–10 years. Agostino Bosco 2007 La Serra (Barolo); Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. who just can’t get enough of the Nebbiolo grape. This 91 $NA. Barolo La Serra shows a slight touch of elegant wine opens with tones of pressed violet, cola, overripe fruit with tones of strawberry or raspberry jam Michele Chiarlo 2006 Tortoniano (Barolo); natural rubber and menthol. The wine shows a healthy, lavished over sweet spice layers of nutmeg and cinna- 92 $55. This wonderful vintage of Tortoniano (a vibrant feel with tannins that could use five more years mon. Given the wine’s warm and sunny disposition, it’s blend of Nebbiolo grapes from the best vineyard crus) of aging. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. no surprise to discover its soft, opulent and succulent opens with amazing intensity and purity of its varietal mouthfeel. Imported by Tanaro River Imports LLC. aromas. The wood element, in the form of toasted Roberto Sarotto 2005 Audace Riserva —M.L. almond and espresso bean, is integrated and the close is 92 Nebbiolo (Barolo); $NA. Sweet oak tones of persistent, smooth and firm. Imported by Kobrand. spice, cinnamon, rose potpourri, candied fruit, prune, Anselma 2007 Barolo; $45. With fruit Editors’ Choice. —M.L. cassis and licorice build in intensity and persistency the 91 sourced at the heart of the Barolo winemaking longer this wine stays in the glass. That beautiful evolu- region, this pretty expression of Nebbiolo offers a thin, Oddero 2007 Villero (Barolo); $68. This tion opens a panoramic view onto the potential of aged compact and austere style with aromas of prune and 92 beautiful wine shows all the rare characteristics Nebbiolo. —M.L. plum backed by smoked ham and white mushroom.

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 The gripping tannins are tight and still very young. Cavallotto 2007 Bricco Boschis (Barolo); Germano Ettore 2005 Lazzarito Riserva Imported by Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. 91 $65. Here is textbook Barolo with long, fine 91 (Barolo); $NA. Here is a very interesting Barolo tannins and elegant aromas of small berry fruit, Riserva that boasts lively balsam notes of licorice, cola, Attilio Ghisolfi 2005 Bricco Visette mesquite wood, tar and black licorice. The wine also hummus, pressed violets and candied fruit. There’s a 91 (Barolo); $80. Bold and rich by 2005 Barolo offers warm earthy notes and a fresh menthol-like citrusy touch of dried orange peel or lemon zest as well standards, Bricco Visette offers a bright embroidery of touch on the close. Pair it with grilled lamb and that gives the wine a bright, refreshing personality. berry, spice, oak and tobacco aromas. Firm tannins sup- chopped mint chutney. Imported by Michael Skurnik Imported by K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L. port the wine at the back end and will help it age grace- Wines. —M.L. fully for the next ten years or more. Imported by Germano Ettore 2007 Prapò (Barolo); $NA. Quintessential Wines. —M.L. Ciabot Berton 2007 Roggeri (Barolo); $90. 91 This elegant expression of Nebbiolo from the This is a tight and compact expression of Barolo Prapò cru takes a feminine, delicate approach with Barale Fratelli 2007 Bussia (Barolo); $NA. 91 with some meaty, earthy aromas at the back of berry pretty floral tones, rose petals, light shadings of spice 91 Leather, tobacco and light Bresaola open the fruit, cola and dried herbs. There is a lighter, more fem- and tobacco, cola and tangy licorice. The fine texture of nose of this dark, masculine Barolo. But wait a few min- inine side to the bouquet that is successfully contrasted tannins underscores the wine’s long, silky feel. utes and the wine starts to deliver elegant tones of rose, against the bolder, thicker feel this wine imparts in the Imported by K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L. violet, tar and polished granite stone. The wine is not mouth. Imported by Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. propped up by huge intensity, but it does offer a cool, Giacomo Ascheri 2007 Sorano Coste & streamlined feel. Imported by Lo Duca Bros. —M.L. Damilano 2006 Le Cinque Vigne (Barolo); 91 Bricco (Barolo); $NA. With fruit sourced from $39. For full review see page 9. various vineyard sites, this garnet Barolo delivers exu- Bel Colle 2007 Barolo; $60. Here’s a very 91 berant fruit tones of forest berry, dried raspberry and beautiful Barolo with elegant aromas of dried 91 Diego Conterno 2007 Le Coste (Barolo); rose petal and pressed violets backed by more hefty violets with delicate spice renderings in the back- $NA. aromas of prune, plum and sweet spice. A firm tannic 91 Barolo Le Coste delivers milky chocolate ground. This is a classy, happy expression of Nebbiolo backbone holds up the wine’s velvety texture and rich tones and cherry cream with a touch of drying mineral with aging potential. Imported by World Wine Source. concentration. Imported by Aventine Hill LLC. —M.L. at the back. The potential is all here, but this wine does —M.L. need at least five more years of bottle aging to find har- Brovia 2007 Ca’ Mia (Barolo); $NA. Barolo mony. Give it the time it deserves. —M.L. Giacomo Fenocchio 2007 Bussia (Barolo); 91 Ca’ Mia exhibits earthy tones of wild mushroom 91 $58. From the celebrated Bussia cru, this ele- and cigar box along with lively tones of dried fruit, cas- Elvio Cogno 2005 Bricco Pernice (Barolo); gant Nebbiolo opens with aromas of candied fruit, sis syrup, cola, rose and tobacco. The interesting 91 $115. Barolo Bricco Pernice shows elegant and cherry liqueur, licorice and soft spice. There’s a touch of mouthfeel is characterized by both drying mineral tones sophisticated layers of forest fruit, cassis, cola, granite white mineral and chopped mint or garden herb at the and sweet cherry liqueur. Imported by Rosenthal and light smoke. The tannins are firm, drying and back and the wine ends with a long, velvety feel. Estate. —M.L. would help pair this pretty wine with creamy wild Imported by Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. mushroom risotto. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Cascina Adelaide 2005 Fossati (Barolo); Giacomo Fenocchio 2007 Villero (Barolo); 91 $95. Within the context of Langhe winemak- Elvio Cogno 2005 Vigna Elena Riserva 91 $58. From the Villero cru, this shapely Barolo ers, Cascina Adelaide favors plush, modern expressions 91 (Barolo); $115. Elvio Cogno is a dedicated, offers floral and soapy aromas of red rose and lavender of Nebbiolo with lots of wood. Barolo Fossati does producer who crafts exciting and consistent wines year lavished over dark concentration and mature berry indeed show awkward oak notes at first and that’s why after year. This sophisticated Riserva Barolo from the nuances. The wine feels structured, soft, velvety and it’s important to hold this wine a few more years in your 2005 vintage delivers dark color and concentration, ripe rich. Drink after 2015. Imported by Masciarelli Wine cellar. Once the wine is allowed time to integrate, its cherry, raspberry roll-up, black granite notes and bright Co. —M.L. plush fruit aromas and sweet spice close will come menthol layers that add personality to the finish. nicely in line. Imported by Tesori Wines. —M.L. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Gianfranco Bovio 2007 Vigne Gattera 91 (Barolo); $NA. You’ll love the smoked bacon Cascina Adelaide 2007 Pernanno (Barolo); Eredi Lodali 2007 Lorens (Barolo); $NA. and bresaola notes that emerge at the top of this deep $86. 91 Barolo Pernanno offers a bold and modern 91 Barolo Lorens delivers interesting dimension bouquet. At the back are notes of ripe fruit, black interpretation of Nebbiolo that sports tones of vanilla, and personality with a complex bouquet comprised of cherry, dusty mineral and exotic spice. The wine offers cinnamon, toasted nut and spice framed around vertical fruit, spice and cola elements. The aromatic intensity is a tight and compact feel with a long, smooth finish. tones of berry fruit, cola and balsam. In fact, there is a given a natural lift thanks to the wine’s dense pulp and Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L. medicinal vein of chopped herb or mint that adds to the velvety consistency. Sweet cherry flavors fuel a long fin- wine’s intensity. Imported by Tesori Wines. —M.L. ish. Imported by Siema LLC. —M.L. Gianni Gagliardo 2005 Riserva (Barolo); $125. Cascina del Monastero 2007 Bricco Luciani 91 A wine to watch, Gianni Gagliardo pres- Francesco Rinaldi 2007 Cannubbio (Barolo); ents a well-shaped and balanced Barolo Riserva from (Barolo); $NA. Smoky tobacco notes, leather, 91 $68. ripe fruit, cola, chocolate and chewy dark spice open 91 Barolo Cannubbio has a chewy, ripe side 2005 that delivers black cherry, cassis, spice and cola. the nose of this muscular Barolo. There’s a special tight- that comes across aromatically as strawberry, vanilla The firm, drying close would pair with succulent red ness or sharpness to the mouthfeel that gives the wine a cream, cinnamon and soy sauce. There’s depth and ele- meat or aged pecorino cheese. Imported by Enotec tight, polished feel. Imported by Metropolis Wine Mer- gance here as well with sweet spice renderings on the Imports, Inc. —M.L. chants, Inc. —M.L. firm close. Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L. Giovanni Rosso 2007 Cerretta (Barolo); Cavallotto 2005 Riserva Vignolo (Barolo); Francone 2007 Barolo; $NA. From the area 91 $45. From the Serralunga d’Alba area of Barolo 91 $98. Cavallotto (Tenuta Bricco Boschis) offers a 91 of La Morra in the Langhe, this elegant Barolo known for its structured and powerful wines comes this dark and powerful Riserva with a masculine, brooding delivers a tight, traditional style with sharp aromas of feminine and delicate expression from the Cerretta cru personality complete with black spice, peppercorn, blueberry, spice, teriyaki sauce and root beer. There’s that is redolent of blue flowers, light spice, licorice and licorice, cola, prune and blackberry preserves. The wine very nice depth and density here with a bright, men- dried mint. The wine is plush, rich and spicy on the concludes with a soft, velvety mouthfeel. Imported by thol-driven finish. Imported by De Benedetto Imports. close but not in an exaggerated way. Imported by Mas- Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. —M.L. sanois Imports. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 31 BUYING I GUIDE

Giuseppe Rinaldi 2007 Cannubi San Negretti 2005 Barolo; $50. Negretti’s elegant expression of Nebbiolo with red fruit tones, plum, 91 Lorenzo Ravera (Barolo); $120. With a blend 91 base Barolo offers a fine point of overripe fruit sweet vanilla and ground coffee. The wine feels yielding of fruit from three important vineyard crus (mineral- surrounded by tobacco, cola, licorice, toasted nut and but dense with a plush texture and a soft, silky feel. driven Cannubi, elegant San Lorenzo and the more dark chocolate. There’s a touch of sweetness evident in Like many wines from the 2007 vintage, it requires less structured Ravera), this pretty wine gives an excellent the bouquet but the mouthfeel is dry, tight and long- aging (five years or so) to reach its optimal drinking overall view of Nebbiolo. The nose is redolent of forest lasting. Imported by Delectation Wines. —M.L. window. Imported by Majestic Imports. —M.L. fruit, raspberry, violet and soy sauce. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Pecchenino 2007 Le Coste (Barolo); $102. Terre da Vino 2007 Paesi Tuoi (Barolo); 91 This Le Coste cru expression of Nebbiolo deliv- 91 $NA. Barolo Paesi Tuoi offers elegance and Grimaldi Bruna 2007 Bricco Ambrogio ers unique aromas of mesquite wood, cedar, tangy complexity thanks to its nuanced aromas of small berry 91 (Barolo); $44. Bruna Grimaldi is a boutique teriyaki and ripe berry fruit. There’s a citrusy note as fruit, drying mineral notes, cedar, cola and licorice. The winery that shows great promise for the future. The well that resembles candied orange skin. The wine wine shows classic lines with tight tannins and a long, wine’s delicate nuances of forest fruit, cola, pressed vio- shows a fine, smooth and silky tannic touch. Imported ethereal finish. Imported by International Wine by Vias Imports. —M.L. Traders. —M.L. lets, white chocolate and coffee are what set it apart. In the mouth, this elegant Barolo offers a tight, stream- Podere Ruggeri Corsini 2007 Corsini Terre da Vino 2007 Essenze (Barolo); $NA. lined feel. Imported by Premium Brands. —M.L. 91 (Barolo); $32. Barolo Corsini offers some ripe 91 Barolo Essenze is a blend of Nebbiolo fruit fruit aromas of strawberry and dried prune backed by sourced from multiple vineyard spots. The results are Livia Fontana 2007 Barolo; $40. Livia leather, espresso and mesquite. The wine is soft, super concentration, a brooding, masculine feel and Fontana’s beautiful Barolo opens with delicate 91 smooth and accented by sweet spice flavors and a bright dark notes of black fruit and exotic spice. This chewy, aromas of cola, balsam, violets and licorice that carry spot of freshness at the very end. Imported by textured wine delivers a big, powerful style that will forth a very satisfying sensation of intensity and ele- Panebianco. —M.L. benefit from more years of cellar aging. Imported by gance. At the back of that first whiff are steady tones of International Wine Traders. —M.L. small fruit, spice and leather. The tannins are tight but Prunotto 2007 Barolo; $60. With fruit also polished in nature. Imported by Selected Estates of 91 sourced from various vineyard sites, this dark Vigneti Luigi Oddero 2007 Barolo; $55. Europe Ltd. —M.L. and fleshy Barolo offers ripe fruit aromas with tar, 91 Oddero is a common surname in the Langhe, licorice, smoked ham, toasted hazelnut and moist pipe Piedmont, so its important to keep the various wine- Mario Gagliasso 2005 Riserva (Barolo); tobacco. Prunotto offers a well-made wine on the makers who use it straight. Luigi Oddero is from the La 91 $NA. Here’s a meaty, masculine Barolo Riserva extraripe and dense side that ends with an opulent, Morra area and presents an elegant Barolo with sub- that is redolent of barbecue smoke, mesquite, teriyaki fruit-driven close. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. dued intensity and pretty aromas of moist earth, cigar sauce, bresaola and candied fruit. There’s a gritty, sandy box, wild mushroom and bright berry tones. Imported quality to the tannins that would cut through roast pork Rattalino 2005 Trentaquattro34 (Barolo); by Rare Wine Company. —M.L. stuffed with prunes. Imported by Acid Inc. Selections. 91 $NA. Bold, bright and packed tight with smoky —M.L. barbecue and mesquite tones, this is the kind of Barolo Virna Borgogno 2005 Riserva (Barolo); to pair with game hen and truffle sauce or veal steak 91 $90. From the warm 2005 vintage, this Riserva Mario Gagliasso 2007 Rocche dell’Annun- and porcini mushrooms. The nose is actually bigger Barolo shows tertiary aromas of candied fruit and old 91 ziata (Barolo); $NA. In step with the bold and than the mouthfeel that delivers surprisingly polished spice, over a slightly browning appearance. Peppermint, intense characteristics associated with the popular 2007 tannins and fine elegance. —M.L. licorice and spice appear on the close, giving the wine vintage, this beautiful Barolo offers aromas of smoked staying power and freshness. Don’t wait too much bacon, black cherry, black olive and worn leather. It San Biagio 2007 Rochettevino (Barolo); longer to drink this wine. Imported by Ionia Atlantic. delivers a touch of sweetness within its tight, dense tan- 91 $NA. Loaded with ripe layers of bacon fat, —M.L. nins. Imported by Acid Inc. Selections. —M.L. smoked ham and ripe cherry fruit, this opulent Barolo would pair with pasta and white truffle or succulent Virna Borgogno 2007 Preda Sarmassa Massolino 2007 Parussi (Barolo); $NA. pork medallions. It’s a very distinctive and masculine 91 (Barolo); $75. This bright Barolo with fruit 91 Massolino delivers a beautifully compact and wine that really does lavish on those Bresaola, tobacco sourced from two of the most important crus in the elegant Nebbiolo with soft layers of spice and red fruit and barbecue spice flavors. Imported by Terra Verus Langhe area of Piedmont opens with ripe red fruit aro- Trading Co. LP. —M.L. mas with toasted almond, cola and exotic spice. The enhanced by bright intensity, menthol layers, licorice long finish shows elegant accents of mesquite and cedar and cherry cola. Thanks to the wine’s structure and per- Serradenari 2006 Barolo; $26. This elegant wood. Imported by Ionia Atlantic. —M.L. sistency, you could try a pairing with crispy roast pork. Barolo delivers both intensity and complexity Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. 91 thanks to its pure berry aromas and tones of cola, white Attilio Ghisolfi 2005 Barolo; $45. Here is a licorice, tar, wet river stone, dried herb and cedar wood. bright, polished Barolo with impressive intensity Montaribaldi 2007 Borzoni (Barolo); $58. 90 Power and firm tannins suggest this wine would be best and complexity. The wine delivers aromas of red berry, Barolo Borzoni promises a long road ahead. At 91 consumed 10 years from now. Imported by Barton cola, cherry liqueur, forest floor and black licorice. Pair this young stage in the wine’s life, you’ll encounter fresh Brescome. —M.L. it with veal with wild rice and mushrooms. Drink from aromas of raspberry and cherry with toasted nut aromas 2015–2018. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.L. and exotic spice. The wine opens with a bright garnet Silvano Bolmida 2007 Bussia (Barolo); color, dense concentration and juicy tannins. Imported 91 $NA. This bold Barolo from the famed Bussia Boroli 2007 Cerequio (Barolo); $79. Usually by Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. cru opens with ripe fruit aromas of prune and straw- 90 one of Barolo’s biggest and boldest expressions berry, followed by a chewy, slightly sweet mouthfeel. of Nebbiolo, this vintage of Boroli Cerequio shows a Nada Giuseppe 2007 Barolo; $NA. But the wine is much more complex than it first more compact, elegant style. This comes somewhat as a 91 Giuseppe Nada presents an earthy, traditional appears. Give it time in the glass to release its unique surprise given the mature, plush nature of the vintage. expression of Barolo with aromas of white mushroom, aromas of black licorice and spearmint. Imported by Berry flavors and spice are well integrated on the long cigar box, dried fruit, cassis, violets and cola. A sweet, Morgan Import LLC. —M.L. finish. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. velvety close is accented by delicate tones of smoked bacon, bresaola and cinnamon spice. Imported by Bay- Tenuta L’Illuminata 2007 Tebavio (Barolo); Cantina Terre del Barolo 2007 Barolo; $NA. field Importing Ltd. —M.L. 91 $62. Barolo Tebavio is a thick, well extracted 90 This pretty Barolo shows many of the telltale

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 signs of the celebrated 2007 vintage. The wine is soft, concentration and dimension. Imported by Polaner Josetta Saffirio 2007 Barolo; $NA. Josetta dense and chewy with enduring aromas of chocolate Selections. —M.L. 90 Saffirio’s classic Barolo (from the Monforte fudge, red cherry and leather. Sophisticated tones of d’Alba area of the Langhe) opens with enticing notes of cured meat and Spanish cedar fill in the back. —M.L. Franco Conterno 2007 Vigna Pugnane chocolate, mocha and smoky pipe tobacco. There’s a 90 (Barolo); $NA. This bright, garnet-colored delicate touch of white mineral or chalk that gives the Cascina Bruciata 2006 Cannubi Muscatel Barolo delivers a tasty, streamlined style with pretty wine backbone and a drying feel on the close. Imported 90 (Barolo); $54. From the tiny Cannubi Musca- accents of cherry fruit, spice and natural rubber. There’s by North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. tel (adjacent to Cannubi), this bright Barolo shows tightness and density on the finish that will soften with sweet spice and berry aromas followed by ethereal time. —M.L. Livia Fontana 2007 Villero (Barolo); $45. tones of cola and cedar wood. The tannins are drying, 90 Blackberries, toasted hazelnut, black licorice, polished and tight. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L. Fratelli Casetta 2005 Riserva (Barolo); Spanish cedar and red currants open the nose of this 90 $NA. This bright Riserva opens with floral, well-shaped and elegant wine. The Nebbiolo grape is Cascina del Monastero 2005 Bricco Riund soapy notes of church incense, Spanish cedar, dried capable of showing nuanced complexity and depth and 90 Riserva (Barolo); $NA. This Riserva Barolo orange peel and polished river stone. It’s a feminine Barolo Villero demonstrates this very nicely. Drink shows surprising freshness and vibrancy thanks to the wine with power and intensity on the close due in part after 2018. Imported by Selected Estates of Europe fine quality of its berry and cherry aromas. At the back to the immense firmness of the tannins. Imported by Ltd. —M.L. are piquant layers of spice, menthol and black licorice. Sober LLC. —M.L. A soft touch of plush sweetness characterizes the finish. Livia Fontana 2005 Riserva (Barolo); $55. Imported by Metropolis Wine Merchants, Inc. —M.L. Giacomo Ascheri 2007 Sorano (Barolo); 90 With fruit sourced from the Castiglione Falletto 90 $NA. There’s an attractively fine and nuanced area of the Langhe, this spicy Barolo offers layers of Castello di Verduno 2005 Monvigliero Ris- quality to this classic expression of Nebbiolo. Pretty mature fruit, cassis syrup, black pepper, dried flowers 90 erva (Barolo); $NA. Riserva Monvigliero is a spice tones and oak renderings play a supporting role to and herbs. The mouthfeel is soft and velvety and the wine of lovely intensity and personality with a pretty bright berry fruit, cola, blue flower and licorice. The wine shows very good staying power and intensity. array of spice, balsam, cola, violet, candied fruit, plum wine offers medium intensity fueled by a long, elegant Imported by Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. and cassis aromas. It offers traction and length thanks to finish. Imported by World Wine Source. —M.L. the fine, streamlined nature of the mouthfeel. Imported Marcarini 2007 La Serra (Barolo); $46. Mar- by Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. Giacomo Fenocchio 2005 Bussia Riserva 90 carini’s La Serra is a unique Nebbiolo with citrus 90 (Barolo); $70. Like other Barolos born in the notes and red fruit backed by tones of watermelon, fen- Cavalier Bartolomeo 2007 Solanotto Alte- Bussia cru, this Riserva boasts a compact, elegant style nel and anise seed. It’s an offbeat wine but it does have 90 nasso (Barolo); $NA. This pretty Barolo opens pepper by sophisticated aromas of small berry fruit, personality. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. with inky-dark concentration and warm aromas of wet cola and pressed blue flower. The tannins are silky, earth, button mushroom, ripe berry fruit and dark smooth and help drive a long, fresh finish. Imported Mauro Sebaste 2007 Prapò (Barolo); $NA. spice. The wine shows excellent structure with firm tan- by Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. 90 Give Prapò Barolo a few minutes to open in the nins and a long, drying, intense feel on the finish. glass. As it does, floral aromas evolve into tones of berry Imported by Franco Wine Imports. —M.L. Gianfranco Bovio 2007 Arborina (Barolo); fruit, cola and smoked ham. The mouthfeel is compact, 90 $NA. Smoky notes of mesquite and teriyaki are firm and crisp with a touch of menthol freshness at the Cavallotto 2005 Bricco Boschis Vigna San blended nicely with delicate berry notes and a drying end. Imported by Tutto Vino. —M.L. 90 Giuseppe Riserva (Barolo); $125. Like this mineral feel. This is a classic and subdued Nebbiolo estate’s other Riserva expression, this Barolo shows dark that would pair with veal scallopini enhanced by a drop Mauro Sebaste 2006 Monvigliero (Barolo); color and concentration accented by mature fruit and of truffle oil. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selec- 90 $NA. This elegant cru expression of Barolo exotic spice aromas. The soft, smooth mouthfeel will tions. —M.L. delivers soft tones of forest berry, cassis, tar and white complement stewed meats or hearty bean soup. licorice over a smooth, fine mouthfeel. The long finish Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. Giovanni Manzone 2007 Gramolere is enhanced by firm, drying tannins. Imported by Tutto 90 (Barolo); $NA. Here’s a stylish and bold Barolo Vino. —M.L. Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2007 Acclivi (Barolo); with big oak tones of spice, cinnamon and vanilla set 90 $53. This is the kind of hearty Barolo you’ll want across from fruity layers of cassis, raspberry and plum. Mauro Sebaste 2005 Monvigliero (Barolo); to pair with pork medallions with truffle sauce or grilled The wine is clean, polished, with an elegant mouthfeel 90 $NA. Barolo Monvigliero is a taut but shapely lamb chops. The wine delivers the natural heft and den- and very long persistency on the close. Imported by A wine with layers of blackberry, plum, licorice, cedar and sity you need to pair with those savory dishes along with Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. chopped mint piled high. With more than five years bright aromas of red cherry, toasted almond and smoked —M.L. since the , this wine is slowly coming into focus ham. Imported by Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. in terms of integration and silkiness. Imported by Tutto Giribaldi 2007 Barolo; $NA. From the Nov- Vino. —M.L. Elio Filippino 2007 Castiglione Falletto 90 ello area of Barolo, this beautiful expression 90 (Barolo); $NA. This expression of Barolo from from Piedmont shows elegance, complexity and smoky Mauro Veglio 2007 Castelletto (Barolo); the Castiglione Falletto area of Piedmont delivers sweet aromas of cigar box, toasted almond and dried fruit. It 90 $55. Dark concentration and medium aromatic spice notes of cinnamon and clove over a solid base of offers a tight, focused finish that is driven forward by intensity open Barolo Castelletto. There’s a delicate, red fruit, cassis and dried berries. Lighter and more firm, drying tannins. Drink in five years or more. feminine side to this Nebbiolo that presents itself delicate tones of cola and licorice appear in the back- Imported by Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.L. through aromas of pressed violet, root beer, chopped ground and the wine is firm and polished in the mouth. mint and peppermint. Those fresh overtones are —M.L. Josetta Saffirio 2007 Persiera (Barolo); backed by tight, gripping tannins. Drink after 2018. 90 $NA. Representing a stylistic break from last Imported by Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L. Francesco Rinaldi 2007 Le Brunate vintage, this edition of Barolo Persiera offers more 90 (Barolo); $68. Thanks to its thicker soils and soapy, floral tones of violets and lavender followed by Mauro Veglio 2007 Vigneto Arborina excellent exposition, the Brunate cru usually offers barrel aromas of moist earth and spice. The 2006 vintage 90 (Barolo); $55. Some occasions call for a wine dense, meatier expressions of Barolo. This beautiful seemed bolder and more extracted. This edition is also that shows the highest levels of quality but also has a wine proves the point with hearty aromas of blackberry, less intense, but more streamlined and focused on the touch of friendliness or informality that makes it more prune and cherry. The long finish is characterized by close. Imported by North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. approachable. Barolo Vigneto Arborina is such a wine.

WineMag.com | 33 BUYING I GUIDE

It offers elegant Nebbiolo tones of red fruit and blue Coppo 2006 Barolo; $NA. The 2006 vintage long-lasting freshness and persistency. Imported by flower with oaky spice and smoke. Imported by Wine 89 is a tricky one for Barolo because it favors ele- Quintessential Wines. —M.L. Warehouse Imports. —M.L. gance and power over softness and concentration. This expression from the talented team at Coppo shows the Rocca Felice 2007 Barolo; $38. This dark Monti 2007 Duemilasette (Barolo); $NA. vintage well with this compact, astringent and ethereal 89 ruby Barolo opens with a sweet note of cinna- 90 Monti’s 2007 Barolo opens with a compact, expression that needs more time to soften. Imported by mon and ripe raspberry followed by subtle tones of streamlined feel and bright aromas of white cherry, can- Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. cola, Indian spice and sandalwood. The wine shows died orange peel, barbecue smoke, pancetta, cola and soft, silky tannins and is just about ready to drink now. licorice. It’s an Old School Barolo that does a very nice Crissante Alessandria 2007 Galina Imported by Saranty Imports. —M.L. job of showcasing Barolo tradition and territory. —M.L. 89 (Barolo); $70. Here’s a territory-driven Barolo with earthy notes of mushroom, barrel and pipe Salvano 2005 Barolo; $60. The sweet Paolo Manzone 2007 Meriame (Barolo); tobacco. You’ll also pick up hints of bacon fat or cured 89 ripeness of the 2005 vintage shines through in 90 $80. Barolo Meriame opens with earthy tones meat with tight, astringent tannins on the close. Hold this wine as cherry, blackberry and ripe plum aromas. of forest floor and bramble followed by lively tones of for five years or more. Imported by Golden Horseshoe But in typical Barolo fashion, those magical tones of Inc. Imported by Domenico Valentino—M.L. cola, balsam and cedar keep the wine vibrant and com- black licorice and cherry liqueur. This is a delicate, fem- plex on the long finish. Imported by Vidalco Interna- inine wine with very good staying power. Imported by Francesco Sobrero 2007 Ciabot Tanasio tional, LLC. —M.L. Quintessential Wines. —M.L. 89 (Barolo); $60. There are strongly toasted influ- ences here of roasted hazelnut and burnt bread crust Simone Scaletta 2007 Chirlet (Barolo); $NA. Paolo Manzone 2007 Serralunga (Barolo); that will surely soften and integrate with more years of Here’s a more informal and approachable expres- $60. Paolo Manzone is a producer based in Ser- 89 90 bottle aging. The good news is that there is enough fruit sion of Barolo with classic Nebbiolo aromas of white ralunga d’Alba and this flagship Barolo delivers elegant and cherry at the core to carry the wine forward over cherry and cola set against a clean, polished mouthfeel. aromas of small berry fruit, cola and licorice. This tight, the years. —M.L. Pair this wine with meat-stuffed ravioli, veal, pork or streamlined wine boasts crisp acidity and a nutty, toasted game hen. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. —M.L. finish. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.L. Giacosa Fratelli 2007 Vigna Mandorlo 89 (Barolo); $75. This vineyard-designate Barolo Virna Borgogno 2006 Barolo; $55. This Principiano Ferdinando 2006 Serralunga offers soapy, floral notes of lavender and church incense 89 base Barolo from the elegant (albeit powerful) 90 (Barolo); $NA. Elegant, austere, ethereal and with more spice and nutmeg at the back. The wine is 2006 vintage shows clean, fresh and vibrant aromas of tight in its aromatic delivery, this classic Barolo offers broad, chewy and well-structured with solid tannins and small berry, chopped mint, cedar and root beer. There’s pristine berry tones backed by power and determina- a densely concentrated texture. Imported by Bedford a tight tannic structure on the close and the wine would tion. Nebbiolo from Serralunga d’Alba tends to be International. —M.L. benefit from a few more years of cellar aging. Imported more structured, dark and intense overall. Imported by by Ionia Atlantic. —M.L. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. Giacosa Fratelli 2007 Bussia (Barolo); $55. 89 Compared to 2006, this Barolo Bussia scored a Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2005 Can- Rambaldi Vladimiro 2007 Il Lauro (Barolo); few points lower because of barrel smells that appear 88 nubi Riserva (Barolo); $NA. Despite its obvi- 90 $NA. Barolo Il Lauro is a soft, plush wine with with the first whiff you take. Beyond that, however, you ous pedigree (Cannubi may be Barolo’s most famous chocolate and creamy vanilla overtones from the La will discover pleasing aromas of tar, leather, mesquite, cru site), this Riserva lacks some of the depth and com- Morra area of the Langhe. There’s plenty of fruit here cured meat and wild mushroom. Imported by Bedford plexity you can expect from this vineyard. The 2005 as well, mostly wild cherry and forest berry, with tight International. —M.L. vintage has pushed up the alcohol, but otherwise the tannins and a sour note on the close. Drink after 2015. wine is marked by berry, violet and cola aromas. —M.L. Giuseppe Rinaldi 2007 Brunate Le Coste Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. 89 (Barolo); $120. Compact and traditional with a Villadoria 2007 Barolo; $NA. There’s a suc- bright, streamlined style, this pretty Barolo represents a Elio Grasso 2007 Gavarini Chiniera 90 culent, sweet element here that resembles blend of Nebbiolo grapes from two very important 88 (Barolo); $NA. From the Monforte d’Alba area, Christmas spice or cinnamon roll. Behind that curtain vineyard crus (the very structured Brunate and the ele- Barolo Gavarini Chiniera shows overripe notes of straw- of spice, concentration and intensity are elegant tones gant Le Coste vineyards). Imported by Vinifera berry jam and raspberry roll-up set against sweet spice of black licorice, cassis, plum and toasted nut. Try this Imports. —M.L. and candied fruit or prune. The wine ends with a sweet smoke note set over a plush, rich texture. A Marc de wine with honey-roasted ham embedded with clove. Le Strette 2007 Le Strette (Barolo); $NA. Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. Imported by Saranty Imports. —M.L. 89 Barolo Le Strette (with fruit sourced from the Novello and Barolo areas of Piedmont) opens with Gigi Rosso 2007 Arione (Barolo); $38. Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2007 Can- dark, inky concentration and sweet aromas of cinna- There are two sides to Barolo Arione. On the nubi (Barolo); $NA. This is a unique and dis- 88 89 mon, clove and mature berry fruit. The wine comes on one side is the wine’s dark color, thick concentration tinctive Barolo from the Cannubi cru that opens with with strength and personality, but in an immediate, and vibrant cherry aromas. On the other side is the thick, dark concentration and ripe aromas of cherry, root one-dimensional manner. —M.L. mouthfeel that is thin, compact and extremely focused. beer, cured beef and dried prunes. The wine boasts The sharp, defined nature of this wine gives it enor- thick, firm tannins and very nice intensity. Drink in 5–10 Oddero 2007 Barolo; $46. This classic inter- mous food pairing potential. Imported by Wine 4 All. years. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. 89 pretation of Barolo opens with earthy tones of —M.L. wild mushroom and forest floor backed by subtle tones Boroli 2007 Villero (Barolo); $71. Fans of of cola and licorice. Set to improve with age, the wine Giovanni Manzone 2005 Gramolere Ris- 89 Boroli’s Barolo Villero will discover a new side sports tight structure and polished tannins. Imported by 88 erva (Barolo); $NA. Medium intensity and to the popular wine with the 2007 vintage. Usually very Soilair Selection. —M.L. body characterize this Riserva Barolo. The wine does bold and bright, this expression seems thinner, more come forth with spicy notes of mature fruit, cinnamon, compact and linear. The wine opens with a slightly Paolo Manzone 2007 Barolo; $60. There’s a clove and nutmeg and there are delicate layers of cola brownish hue to its appearance and ripe notes of 89 sharp, brambly quality to the nose of this ruby- and black licorice at the back. It’s smooth, bright and mature berry fruit. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery colored Barolo that is followed by lively cherry cola and silky on the close. Imported by A Marc de Grazia selec- Direct. —M.L. black licorice. In the mouth, however, the wine delivers tion; various American importers. —M.L.

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Massolino 2005 Vigna Rionda Riserva Fontanabianca 2008 Bordini (Barbaresco); extraction and density. It’s a firm, solid wine without 88 (Barolo); $NA. Here’s a bold and bright Barolo 93 $55. Fontanabianca is a microboutique, family- being too heavy or dense and the bouquet is bursting Riserva with the power, heft and alcohol to cut through run winery that pulls out jaw-dropping gorgeous wines with blackberry, blueberry and red rose aromas. Keep succulent cuts of grilled sirloin steak. Aromas of cherry, year after year. A hard work ethic and lucky vineyard this wine safe in your cellar for ten years or more. vanilla and sweet spice color the background and the locations shape this opulent, deeply layered Barbaresco Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Cellar wine concludes with chewy, ripe tannins. Imported by and its steady array of spice, dark fruit, plum, cola, Selection. —M.L. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. licorice and dark asphalt-like aromas. Imported by Tel- litalia Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Cascina Saria 2008 Barbaresco; $NA. This Pelassa 2005 Barolo; $NA. Barolos from the 92 delightfully elegant and traditional expression 88 2005 vintage will be ready to drink soon (in 2–3 Michele Chiarlo 2007 Reyna (Barbaresco); of Nebbiolo opens with lush aromas of ripe fruit, $40. more years) and this expression shows the ripeness and 93 For full review see page 6. leather, root beer and dried fruit. It offers intensity, overall softness associated with the vintage. Black length and would pair with lamb chops. Drink after Moccagatta 2008 Basarin (Barbaresco); cherry and cassis aromas are enhanced by licorice and 2015. Imported by Baldocchino Fine Wines. —M.L. $65. A beautiful wine that needs to age, this smoky tar. Imported by Slocum & Sons, Inc. —M.L. 93 Basarin cru selection shows thick layers of berry fruit, Cigliuti 2006 Vigne Erte (Barbaresco); $72. Vinchio-Vaglio Serra 2006 Cantina Tre Serre cedar wood, almond and dark licorice. The oak element 92 Barbaresco Vigne Erte offers aged aromas of is strong, but the wine is still young and all its many ele- black mineral and wet river stone backed by bright aro- (Barolo); $50. Barolo Cantina Tre Serre is a taut 88 ments will surely come into focus in 10 years or more. mas of forest berry and black cherry. It’s a smooth, pol- and well defined wine with earthy tones and some A Marc de Grazia selection; various American ished wine with a firm tannic backbone and impressive burmtt aromas of toasted bread or almond at the back of importers. Cellar Selection. —M.L. length. Imported by Indigenous Selections. —M.L. forest berry and root beer-like aromas. There’s a long, silky feel in the mouth that underlines the wine’s overall Molino 2008 Ausario (Barbaresco); $NA. La Ganghija 2008 Barbaresco; $NA. Vint- finesse. Imported by Bon Vivant Imports. —M.L. 93 Ausario is an exceptional expression of Nebbiolo 92 ner Enzo Rapalino has crafted a luscious, thick that opens with luscious, dark concentration and excel- Barbaresco with warm wood tones of spice and toasted Cascina Adelaide 2005 4 Vigne (Barolo); lent complexity. Wood tones of spice and toasted nut almond backed by delicious notes of bright berry and 87 $56. Slightly disjointed at first, this Barolo with marry the fresh fruit tones associated with the grape wild raspberry. The wine shows firm, determined tan- fruit sourced from four vineyard sites, needs a few min- variety that makes Piedmont so famous. The wine is nins and a very solid structure for a long aging future. utes to open in the glass. The wine offers tertiary aro- tight, firm and velvety on the finish. Imported by Italia —M.L. mas of cured beef, smoked bacon and white mushroom. Wine Imports. —M.L. Drink now. Imported by Tesori Wines. —M.L. Massimo Penna 2008 Sorì Sartù (Bar- Orlando Abrigo 2008 Rocche Meruzzano 92 baresco); $NA. A clear pedigree wine, this ele- Palladino 2005 San Bernardo Riserva 93 (Barbaresco); $55. Here is a lovely Barbaresco gant Barbaresco offers notes of mature berry, cola, 87 (Barolo); $89. This vintage of Barolo Riserva that delivers dark pulp and concentration followed by coffee and cedar wrapped around drying, firm tannins. San Bernardo (a wine that consistently scores in the 90- intense aromas of dark fruit, prune, spice, leather, Cellar age it two or three more years and pair it eventu- point range) appears much grittier and more oak-driven bramble and cigar box. What helps make this wine ally with a sophisticated dish such as quail and wild rice. than past expressions. Carpentry shop and wood shav- stand out is its smooth, rich and enduring texture. Very —M.L. ings come to the forefront of mature plum and black- nice. Imported by Ionia Atlantic. —M.L. berry jam. Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. Moccagatta 2008 Bric Balin (Barbaresco); Pietro Rinaldi 2008 San Cristoforo (Bar- 92 $65. With a steady portfolio of above 90-point 93 baresco); $NA. Here’s a very impressive Bar- wines, you can count on Moccagatta for elegant, terri- BARBARESCO baresco with lush concentration and a beautiful, deep tory-driven expressions of Nebbiolo. Bric Balin Bar- color. Aromatically, the wine puts forth layers of mature baresco is a beautiful wine with seamless integration of Punset 2004 Riserva (Barbaresco); $NA. cherry, dark chocolate, red rose and cigar box. It’s a berry, smoke and spice flavors. A Marc de Grazia selec- 95 Punset is a very interesting organic and biody- structured, hefty style that would pair with grilled tion; various American importers. —M.L. namic winery that tends to release its vintages much meats. Wait 5-10 years before drinking. Imported by Orlando Abrigo 2006 Vigna Rongalio later than the others. This 2004 Riserva Barbaresco is VinUS Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Meruzzano Riserva (Barbaresco); $75. amazingly intense and complex with deep layers of cola, 92 Nice Punset 2004 Barbaresco; $NA. Punset complexity and vertical aromas of cola, licorice and white licorice, balsam notes, forest berry and dried releases its wines much later than others and its cherry liqueur open the nose of this Riserva Bar- mint. Drink from 2015–2020. Imported by Zancanella 93 organic, Nebbiolo-based wines really do need a lot of baresco. The wine’s aromatic characteristics are very Importing Co. Cellar Selection. —M.L. time in the bottle before they are ready to drink. Take much in line with classic Nebbiolo and there’s a pun- this 2004 Barbaresco: The wine is very alive and bright gent or immediate quality as well. In the mouth, it Albino Rocca 2008 Vigneto Brich Ronchi with firm tannins and a long finish that will gain traction shows dense, chewy consistency. Imported by Ionia (Barbaresco); $60. This is a lovely vineyard des- 93 over the next decade. Imported by Zancanella Import- Atlantic. —M.L. ignate Barbaresco that combines fresh flavors of cassis ing Co. —M.L. and wild berries with ethereal notes of root beer, licorice Orlando Abrigo 2007 Rocche Meruzzano and tar. It finishes with smooth, sturdy tannins and will Roberto Sarotto 2006 Gaia Principe Ris- 92 (Barbaresco); $55. Orlando Abrigo consis- only improve over the next 5–10 years. A Marc de Grazia 93 erva (Barbaresco); $NA. This Riserva Bar- tently delivers bold, full-bodied expressions of Nebbiolo selection; various American importers. —M.L. baresco hits a home run thanks to the pretty richness of and this vineyard-designate Barbaresco is no exception. its fruit and spice tones and the elegant aromatic You could say that the wine has “good bones” thanks to Ceretto 2008 Bricco Asili Bernardot (Bar- accents offered in the form of violet, cola and licorice. the firmness of its tannic structure and the boldness of 93 baresco); $NA. Barbaresco Bernardot is a gor- The wine shows dark concentration, velvety richness its blackberry, cassis and spice flavors. Imported by geous wine with full intensity and brightness colored and a sweet milk chocolate finish. —M.L. Ionia Atlantic. —M.L. by soft aromas of black cherry, chocolate and softly roasted hazelnut. Let this wine age five more years at a Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2008 Basarin Rivetti Massimo 2006 Serraboella Riserva minimum so that those tannins unwind and soften. 92 (Barbaresco); $NA. This is a gorgeous Bar- 92 (Barbaresco); $NA. This beautiful Riserva Neb- Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L. baresco that shows special excellence in terms of its biolo from the Serraboella cru opens with warm and gen-

WineMag.com | 35 BUYING I GUIDE erous aromas of spice box, toasted almond, red fruit and lucky enough to source fruit here are part of an elite Poderi Colla 2008 Roncaglie (Barbaresco); vanilla. Thick density, balance and subtle softness make winemaking group. This youthful expression delivers 91 $58. Representing one of Barbaresco’s best cru this wine a bit more approachable to drink within five wild berry, cedar and black licorice overtones. Drink in sites, Roncaglie delivers elegant, ethereal aromas of years. The close is accented by a bright spot of sweet 5–10 years. Imported by Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. wild berry, cherry cola, white chocolate and aged cinnamon. Imported by Wine Emporium. —M.L. leather. There’s complexity and sophistication here that Eredi Lodali 2008 Lorens (Barbaresco); is further reinforced by the silky, firm nature of its tan- Rizzi 2008 Pajoré (Barbaresco); $57. Very 91 $NA. Sophisticated and bright, this beautiful nins. Imported by Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. 92 distinctive and unique in terms of its aromatic Barbaresco presents loads of vanilla, dark fruit, spice delivery, this beautiful Barbaresco boasts complex lay- and toasted nut intensity. There’s structure and Prunotto 2006 Bric Turot (Barbaresco); ers of licorice, root beer and white cherry that help sup- longevity here and the wine lasts many long minutes 91 $75. Bric Turot is a rich and powerful Bar- port a lively vertical lift. A light ruby appearance is on the palate thanks to its bone-dry tannins. Imported baresco that shows excellent integrity and intensity of followed by tight astringency and crushed black pepper. by Siema LLC. —M.L. its fruit flavors. Those tones of red cherry and cassis Pajoré plays the elegance card very well. Imported by are backed by layers of spice, leather and dried tobacco Opici Wines. —M.L. Francone 2006 Riserva (Barbaresco); $NA. leaf. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. This is a beautiful wine that focuses on com- Ugo Lequio 2008 Gallina (Barbaresco); 91 Punset 2006 Riserva (Barbaresco); $NA. plexity and elegance rather than heft and power. In fact, $NA. Ugo Lequio’s beautiful Gallina Bar- Always the standout in a crowd, Punset (organic 92 the Riserva Barbaresco presents traditional aromas of 91 baresco offers loads of cola (cherry cola and root beer) and biodynamic growers in Barbaresco) presents an ele- small dried berry, cassis, cola and pressed violets that with firm oak tones that need time to unwind with gant and austere Riserva. Aromas here include wet stone are typical of the Nebbiolo grape. The mouthfeel is more cellar aging. Toasted notes, spice and pressed red and green herbs, rosemary or wild sage, followed by taut tight, tannic and could use 5–10 more years of cellar rose petal appear on the long, generous close. Imported density and tight tannins. Let this wine age 5–10 more by Admiralty Beverage. —M.L. aging. Imported by De Benedetto Imports. —M.L. years. Imported by Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L.

Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2006 Basarin Giacosa Fratelli 2008 Basarin Vigna Gian- Rattalino 2006 Quarantatre 43 (Bar- 91 Riserva (Barbaresco); $NA. Here’s a taut, 91 maté (Barbaresco); $55. This vibrant Nebbi- 91 baresco); $NA. Here’s a soft, luscious Bar- steady Barbaresco Riserva with a meaty, fleshy quality olo opens with inky, dark concentration and heavy oak baresco that delivers a cheerful juxtaposition of bright to the texture that is backed by ripe aromas of cherry notes that will soften and fall into place with a few more berry flavors set against a tight, firm structure. Red and dried blackberry. Leather, spice and cola come in at years of bottle aging. Ripe fruit, black cherry, dark berry and dusty mineral renderings are also highlighted the end and the wine delivers a long, flavorful finish. spice, mesquite, leather, tobacco and soy sauce are all by the wine’s tart natural succulence. —M.L. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. evident components of the layered bouquet. Imported by Bedford International. —M.L. Rattalino 2008 Quarantadue 42 (Bar- Ca’ del Baio 2008 Asili (Barbaresco); $NA. 91 baresco); $NA. Full, brambly and spicy, this 91 Earthy, herbal and elegant on the nose, Asili Marchesi di Barolo 2008 Serragrilli (Bar- elegant Barbaresco shows the complex, ethereal aro- Barbaresco needs 4–6 more years of cellar aging to fully 91 baresco); $100. Marchesi di Barolo delivers a mas often associated with the Nebbiolo grape. Fruit, integrate. So far, this beautiful wine shows tones of rich, concentrated expression from the Serragrilli cru cola and leather tones are backed by firm, determined berry, raspberry, red rose and cola that grow in intensity with mature cherry and candied fruit aromas along with tannins and a refreshing spot of acidity. —M.L. and power the more the wine opens in the glass. bright nuances of Spanish cedar, barbecue spice and Imported by Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L. cigar box. The wine is astringent at this young age, but Rizzi 2006 Pajoré (Barbaresco); $57. Pajoré has the pulp and heft for a long aging future. Drink 91 is a classic expression of Barbaresco with clean Cantina del Pino 2008 Barbaresco; $45. after 2017. Imported by Wine Wave. —M.L. and elegant lines and a wonderfully vertical and intense 91 Cantina del Pino is a true manufacturer of delivery of aromas. The bouquet is generous with tones delight and magic. This pristine, elegant but mature Michele Taliano 2008 Ad Altiora (Bar- of forest berry, root beer, tar, licorice, dried pipe Barbaresco is a prime example of this vintner’s exciting 91 baresco); $60. Barbaresco Ad Altiora is charac- tobacco and a touch of bitter almond on the close. potential. Aromas of jammy berry, cola, cedar and terized by plumpness and ripeness of fruit. That rich, Imported by Opici Wines. —M.L. smoke are carefully layered and stacked tall. Open in natural succulence is backed by firm tannins and drying Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy 5–10 years. Imported by Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. sensations of exotic spice, licorice and tobacco leaf. The 2008 Martinenga (Barbaresco); $50. balance between those two extremes is what sets this 91 Cascina Bruciata 2007 Rio Sordo (Bar- Located directly under the celebrated Rabajà cru, Mar- bold red wine apart. Imported by Superior Wines LLC. baresco); $49. The Cascina Bruciata winery is tinenga is an exceptional, amphitheater-shaped vine- 91 —M.L. positioned majestically over the celebrated Rio Sordo yard that revels in sunny exposures and well-draining cru and boasts commanding views of this beautiful vine- soils. It’s the perfect spot for the world’s best winemak- Montaribaldi 2008 Palazzina (Barbaresco); yard. The wine delivers ripe berry aromas and loads of ing and this youthful expressions shows wonderful qual- $26. Here’s a finely crafted and rich expression delicate spice, licorice and cola nuances. Imported by 91 ity and elegance. The long finish is accented by cassis, of Barbaresco with evident oak tones that are enhanced Villa Italia. —M.L. cedar and cola-like flavors. Imported by Dalla Terra by mature berry fruit, cola and creamy vanilla. The Winery Direct. —M.L. Cascina Bruciata 2006 Rio Sordo Riserva wine shows very nice saturation, richness and persis- 91 (Barbaresco); $69. This pretty Riserva Bar- tency. It also has a sour note of astringency on the close Albino Rocca 2008 Barbaresco; $48. From baresco from the celebrated Rio Sordo cru delivers full at this young stage in its life. Drink after 2015. 90 the Alba area of the Langhe in Piedmont, this and generous intensity and a tight, fine texture in the Imported by Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. pretty Barbaresco delivers a thick, dense style with mouth. The long finish is accented by tones of dried loads of aromatic intensity and personality. The finish is fruit, sweet spice and a playful touch of roasted Pelissero 2008 Nubiola (Barbaresco); $38. peppered with cherry, cola, cedar and menthol-like coconut. Very nice. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L. 91 Nubiola is a pulpy, thickly concentrated Nebbi- nuances. A Marc de Grazia selection; various Ameri- olo with brambly notes of forest fruit, moist earth, can importers. —M.L. Castello di Verduno 2008 Rabajà (Bar- leather, spice and toasted hazelnut. The wine is still 91 baresco); $NA. A steep slope on the backside of young, astringent and needs a few more years of cellar Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa 2008 Tet- Barbaresco’s main street, the Rabajà vineyard cru is aging before it softens up. Imported by Vinifera 90 tineive (Barbaresco); $NA. Barbaresco Tet- among the region’s best and most celebrated. Vintners Imports. —M.L. tineive delivers sweet cherry and spicy vanilla overtones

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 over a clean, compact and sturdy mouthfeel. This clas- the delivery. At the back, earthy aromas of pipe tobacco Nebbiolo offers pretty aromas of fragrant blue flower sic expression of Nebbiolo shows good acidity and or wild mushroom also appear. Imported by Oliver and scented candle. The wine opens with a bright gar- structure that help make it a good pairing partner to McCrum Wines. —M.L. net color and drying tannins that would match delicate wintery meat dishes or stews. —M.L. pasta with game meat sauce. Imported by A.I. Selec- Elio Filippino 2008 San Cristoforo (Bar- tions. —M.L. Barale Fratelli 2008 Serraboella (Bar- 90 baresco); $NA. This deeply structured and lay- 90 baresco); $NA. Your senses are greeted with ered Barbaresco delivers thick aromas of bitter Produttori del Barbaresco 2008 Bar- dense concentration and a rich style of Nebbiolo that is chocolate, mature cherry, cola and leather. It’s a young 90 baresco; $38. This vibrant Barbaresco opens colored by highlights of dark fruit, cola and exotic wine, with tight astringency and firm tannins, that with loads of oak-inspired aromas and sweet spice with spice. The mouthfeel is lean and elegant with solid needs to age another five years in the bottle before the background tones of forest fruit, bramble, tar, cedar structure and an enduring finish. Imported by Lo wine is ready to drink. —M.L. and licorice. The tannins are drying, firm and fuel the Duca Bros. —M.L. wine’s long finish. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Francone 2008 I Patriarchi (Barbaresco); Battaglio 2008 Barbaresco; $NA. Here’s a 90 $NA. Barbaresco I Patriarchi is an elegant, Prunotto 2008 Barbaresco; $50. Prunotto’s 90 clean and compact Barbaresco with slight compact wine that opens with a pretty garnet color and 90 juicy Barbaresco offers loads of cherry and milk touches of toasted almond and milky chocolate over a direct aromas of spice, forest floor, fresh berry fruit and chocolate intensity with shadings of spice, cola and base of fresh cherry and forest berry. In the mouth, licorice powder. The wine shows great finesse and per- cedar wood on the finish. The wine’s tannins are still you’ll recognize flavors of Christmas spice, spearmint, sistency with a welcoming blast of black pepper on the very solid, so give it 5–10 more years of bottle aging to crushed clove and cigar box. —M.L. close. Imported by De Benedetto Imports. —M.L. soften up. Imported by Winebow. —M.L.

Ca’ del Baio 2008 Valgrande (Barbaresco); Giuseppe Cortese 2008 Rabajà (Bar- Rivetti Massimo 2008 Froi (Barbaresco); 90 $NA. Barbaresco Valgrande is a traditional and 90 baresco); $116. Of particular interest is the 90 $NA. Pretty oak tones of toasted nut and vanilla streamlined expression of Nebbiolo with elegant tones fullness and generosity of this lovely Barbaresco cru cream are evident without being overwhelming or exag- of licorice, cola, hummus, vanilla and spice that peek expression. Ripe red fruit and plum notes are backed by gerated against the wine’s fresh forest berry aromas. through a solid core of red cherry and raspberry. The black olive, licorice powder and a tightly astringent fin- There are touches of bitterness and rawness at this wine is generous and soft in the mouth with a bright ish. Age this wine 5–10 more years and pair it with young stage in the wine’s life that will soften with time. point of acidity at the end. Imported by Jan D’Amore game hen and black truffles. Imported by Winebow. — Imported by Wine Emporium. —M.L. Wines. —M.L. M.L. Rivetto 2008 Ce’ Vanin (Barbaresco); $NA. Ca’ du Rabajà 2008 Rabajà (Barbaresco); Pasquale Pelissero 2008 Bricco San Giu- 90 This beautiful Barbaresco from Rivetto opens 90 $60. This pretty vineyard cru expression of Bar- 90 liano (Barbaresco); $30. Barbaresco Bricco with a tight, compact style that is embedded with a high baresco offers smoky tones of toasted nut and tar San Giuliano is easy to spot in a crowd thanks to its level of aromatic intensity with lingering tones of red backed by delicate small berries and a touch of vanilla bright aromas of candied fruit and sweet cherry liqueur. berry, vanilla, cinnamon and sweet spice. It is stream- cream. It’s an easy expression without the daunting lev- It’s a distinctively feminine wine with overtones of rose lined, taut and very long in endurance. Imported by els of austerity and the tannic structure you sometimes water or pressed violets at the back. Pair this wine with Vintage Imports, Inc. —M.L. encounter with Nebbiolo. Imported by Rare Wine foods that have an aromatic element such as chopped Company. —M.L. basil or coriander. Imported by Grape Expectations Rizzi 2008 Nervo Fondetta (Barbaresco); (CA). —M.L. 90 $50. Rizzi’s Barbaresco Nervo Fondetta opens Cascina Bruciata 2005 Rio Sordo Riserva with playful touches of cola and sweet spice that help 90 (Barbaresco); $69. This Riserva Barbaresco Pertinace 2008 Marcarini (Barbaresco); create a sense of aromatic immediacy. Thanks to that from the Rio Sordo cru opens with layered aromatic 90 $50. Pertinace’s Barbaresco Marcarini is a tight pretty vertical lift, the wine shows long sensations of nuances of ripe fruit, exotic spice, cola, tar, cigar and and traditional wine with light spice notes wrapped dryness and flavor on the elegant finish. Imported by moist tobacco. The wine also shows tightly firm but pol- around white cherry and wild raspberry. The wine is Opici Wines. —M.L. ished tannins. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L. astringent and compact in the mouth with raw rhubarb and cola-like flavors on the long finish. Imported by Rizzi 2006 Nervo Fondetta (Barbaresco); Cascina Luisin 2008 Sori Paolin (Bar- MW Imports. —M.L. 90 $50. You can’t beat the energy and enthusiasm 90 baresco); $54. Here’s a bright Barbaresco that of the Rizzi winery in Barbaresco. This father and son shows harmony and a sturdy, upfront quality thanks to Piazzo Armando 2008 Fratin (Barbaresco); team delivers a tight, clean and pristine expression of its immediate aromatic intensity. Cherry, cola and spice 90 $NA. Barbaresco Fratin opens with luscious Nebbiolo with small berry notes enhanced by spice, are spread over the wine’s medium consistency and fine aromas of sandalwood and Indian spice with fine, aus- cola and tar. Imported by Opici Wines. —M.L. texture. There’s a touch of sourness and tight astrin- tere tannins later on the finish. There isn’t too much gency on the finish. Imported by Zig Zagando. —M.L. fruit here, but what does come through are nuances of Rizzi 2006 Barbaresco; $43. What a wonder- prune and cassis. Overall, the wine is very dry, tight and 90 ful wine to pair with game hen or roasted quail. Castello di Neive 2008 Gallina (Bar- sharp. Imported by Angelini Wine. —M.L. This delicate and elegant expression boasts a superripe 90 baresco); $NA. This Barbaresco with fruit lining of strawberry and blueberry jam that gives this sourced from the Gallina cru shows sweet vanilla and Piazzo Armando 2006 Nervo Vigna Giaia wine a youthful, more approachable quality. Imported spice spread over tight fruit aromas of cassis and plum. 90 Riserva (Barbaresco); $NA. There’s a ripe, by Opici Wines. —M.L. The aromas are steady, well paced and do not present almost jammy quality to the bouquet of this Riserva themselves in an overdone or exaggerated way. In fact, Barbaresco that appears as raspberry or strawberry Rizzi 2006 Boito (Barbaresco); $50. What linear elegance and restraint are what set this wine candy with subtle cola, leather and tar aromas at the 90 sets Rizzi apart is the pristine and detailed- apart. —M.L. back. The wine is tight and compact with the kind of minded nature of its winemaking. Barbaresco Boito firmness in the mouth that suggests it needs another shows these qualities nicely thanks to the dimension of Castello di Verduno 2006 Rabajà Riserva five years of bottle aging. Imported by Angelini Wine. its small berry, cola, cedar, licorice and menthol aro- 90 (Barbaresco); $NA. With a little extra aging —M.L. mas. Imported by Opici Wines. —M.L. on it, this Riserva Barbaresco offers a full and generous mouthfeel and tight astringency with dark fruit, plum Piero Busso 2008 Mondino (Barbaresco); Terre da Vino 2008 La Casa in Collina (Bar- and spice aromas that give the wine heft and power on 90 $NA. This sweetly perfumed expression of 90 baresco); $NA. La Casa in Collina Barbaresco

WineMag.com | 37 BUYING I GUIDE

(“the house on the hill”) presents soft and yielding oak a drying finish that would pair with braised or stewed Pertinace 2008 Vigneto Nervo (Bar- tones with aromas of red cherry, vanilla cream, cinna- meat dishes. Imported by Castello di Neive. —M.L. 89 baresco); $60. Vigneto Nervo Barbaresco mon and dark chocolate. In the mouth, it shows tight shows a sharp, focused style with tight astringency and astringency and good acidity to balance things out. Castello di Neive 2008 Santo Stefano (Bar- subtle streaks of sourness and bitterness on the close. At Imported by International Wine Traders. —M.L. 89 baresco); $58. In a departure from the fuller, the core of the wine, however, is white cherry and cola. riper style exhibited last vintage, this edition of Bar- Drink after 2015. Imported by MW Imports. —M.L. Vigin 2008 Noemy (Barbaresco); $50. Bar- baresco Santo Stefano shows thorny, brambly elements 90 baresco Noemy shows a deep stylistic difference of white cherry and forest floor. In the mouth, it shows Prinsi 2006 Fausone Riserva (Barbaresco); over the past vintage. This edition of the Nebbiolo- tight astringency and not too much heft or supporting 89 $62. This pretty Riserva Nebbiolo will surely based wine is much darker and more oak-driven with density. Drink after 2015. Imported by Castello di grow softer and finer with age. Those who drink it now thicker concentration and evident renderings of exotic Neive. —M.L. will experience smoky, toasted aromas of almond, cigar spice and toasted nut. Thanks to the pulp and natural box, moist earth and powdered licorice. The wine is staying power, this wine’s aging future looks good. Grasso Fratelli 2008 Vallegrande (Bar- also elegantly tight and focused in the mouth. Imported Imported by Domace Vino. —M.L. 89 baresco); $NA. This is an interesting and by Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. potentially very beautiful wine that probably needs Angelo Negro & Figli 2008 Cascinotta (Bar- many more years of cellar aging before it is fully Punset 2008 Basarin (Barbaresco); $NA. 89 baresco); $NA. Barbaresco Cascinotta shows a formed. At this young stage it shows raw notes of 89 Barbaresco Basarin by organic and biodynamic different side of Nebbiolo (in fact, this vintage marks a rhubarb, cola and spice backed by dark licorice over- producer Punset is a bit strange aromatically at first stylistic departure from the past) with unique aromas of tones. It’s drying and tight with jackhammer tannins. with earthy aromas of cured meat and pressed red rose. root beer, spice and kerosene. There’s medium heft and —M.L. The trick here is to wait for the wine to finish its evolu- density to the mouthfeel, but the intensity and overall tion and open the bottle in five years or more. Imported length of the wine is much grander than you’d expect. La Ca’ Nova 2008 Montestefano (Bar- by Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. Imported by Nardone Wine. —M.L. 89 baresco); $NA. Barbaresco Montestefano is driven by simple, clean elegance that ties together its Ressia 2008 Canova (Barbaresco); $NA. Ca’ du Rabajà 2008 Barbaresco; $45. This many aromatic elements. Like a silk blouse on a cool 89 There’s a tiny touch of raw apple or apple skin 89 lovely base Barbaresco exhibits a soft, generous spring day, the wine is caressing and light with feminine that gives this Barbaresco a bright, vertical, aromatic style with loads of mature fruit, cola, tar, licorice and softness and tightness of texture. Imported by Tricana lift. That tiny volatility doesn’t distract from the overall bitter dark chocolate. Over the palate, the wine feels Imports. —M.L. picture and base aromas of spice, cola and red fruit still tight and sharp and it will surely soften with a few more manage to shine through just fine. —M.L. years of bottle aging. Imported by Rare Wine Com- Molino 2008 Teorema (Barbaresco); $NA. pany. —M.L. 89 Barbaresco Teorema opens with a distinctive Vigin 2008 Nonnorlando (Barbaresco); bouquet of dried medicinal herb, cola, fennel or celery 89 $75. Barbaresco Nonnorlando delivers clean Cantina del Nebbiolo 2008 Barbaresco; stick. There are subtle tones of red berry and currant and subtle aromatic characteristics that recall blueberry, 89 $NA. With fruit sourced from the Neive, Alba and the mouthfeel shows a compact style and medium pressed violets, plum and root beer. The wine’s dark and Treiso areas, this Barbaresco shows loads of tradi- intensity. It’s a bright, correct wine, but a measured garnet appearance is backed by pulpy concentration tion and typicity with small berry nuances, tar, asphalt one. Imported by Italia Wine Imports. —M.L. and a tight, astringent finish. Drink after 2017. and granite mineral notes on the close. The mouthfeel Imported by Domace Vino. —M.L. is tight, sharp and long-lasting. Imported by Lettieri & Montaribaldi 2008 Sorì Montaribaldi (Bar- Company Ltd. —M.L. 89 baresco); $45. This pretty Barbaresco bursts Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2008 Sanadaive open with concentration, heft and a vibrant ruby color. 88 (Barbaresco); $NA. There’s a sharp, hard edge Cascina Bruciata 2007 Barbaresco; $34. On closer inspection, there are some earthy tones of to this Barbaresco that makes it a good candidate for 89 Cascina Bruciata’s base Barbaresco offers layers moist soil, toasted almond and black olive at the back succulent meat dishes with cream sauce. But this wine of ripe fruit spice, tar and licorice with soft but firm that help shape a fuller, more complex bouquet. also delivers an immediate, upfront style that makes it tannins. Pair this wine with steak and creamy black pep- Imported by Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. more approachable than most. Imported by Monsieur per sauce. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L. Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. Nada Giuseppe 2008 Casot (Barbaresco); Cascina Luisin 2008 Rabajà (Barbaresco); 89 $NA. This tight and gritty feeling Barbaresco Bricco Grilli 2008 Serragrilli (Barbaresco); 89 $54. From one of Barbaresco’s most celebrated opens with earthy notes of smoked meat and exotic 88 $NA. This expression of Nebbiolo from the cel- vineyard crus, this ruby-colored wine exhibits loads of spice with mature cherry, plum and blackberry at the ebrated Serragrilli cru is loaded tight with blue flower intensity and power in the form of cherry, cassis, back. That textured, drying feel to the tannins is sup- aromas, violets and soapy scented candle. The wine is leather, tar and cola. The wine’s compact, tonic mouth- ported by medium pulp and concentration. Imported tight, fresh and compact with the acidity and tannic feel would make a great companion to rich, sophisti- by Bayfield Importing Ltd. —M.L. structure you need to pair with red meat dishes. Drink cated cuisine. Imported by Zig Zagando. —M.L. after 2015. —M.L. Oddero 2008 Gallina (Barbaresco); $65. Cascina Morassino 2008 Morassino (Bar- 89 From the Gallina cru of Barbaresco known for Cascina delle Rose 2008 Tre Stelle (Bar- 89 baresco); $36. Barbaresco Morassino is a its elegance and finesse, here is a pretty Nebbiolo that 88 baresco); $NA. Cascina delle Rose hits a near dark, brooding wine with smoky tones of tobacco and shows drying mineral tones, air-dried spice and wood in home run with its Tre Stelle Barbaresco. This is a tradi- smoked cedar backed by black olive, mature fruit, bar- a very evident manner. There are fruit tones of prune tional and streamlined wine that is accented by white becue and soy sauce. There is some tight astringency and cassis, but the dryness and firmness of this wine is pepper, leather and cured bresaola. What we want on the finish that will soften with time. Imported by what stands out. Imported by Soilair Selection. —M.L. more of at this young stage in the wine’s life is freshness Tosco Wines. —M.L. of fruit. Imported by George Wines. —M.L. Olek Bondonio 2008 Barbaresco; $NA. This Castello di Neive 2006 Santo Stefano Ris- 89 bright Barbaresco delivers an austere, tradi- Cascina Morassino 2008 Ovello (Bar- 89 erva (Barbaresco); $85. Riserva Santo Ste- tional style with small berry nuances backed by ethereal 88 baresco); $44. A few famous names have fano opens with earthy tones of forest floor and wild tones of cola, licorice and tar. The thin, compact nature dipped into the Ovello cru for grapes and Cascina mushroom followed by tighter aromas of cassis and of the mouthfeel gives rise to a touch of alcoholic heat Morassino is part of that elite group. Facing the church cherry cola. This is an easy, firm and compact wine with on the close. —M.L. steeple of Barbaresco, the vineyard delivers smoky

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 notes of tar and asphalt backed by ripe fruit and cedar Cascina delle Rose 2008 Rio Sordo (Bar- nuances. The wine is approachable and ready to drink, wood. There’s a wild, messy character to this wine that 86 baresco); $NA. Barbaresco Rio Sordo is lined with a clean, upfront personality. A Marc de Grazia is charming. Imported by Tosco Wines. —M.L. at the sides by a musty, earthy aroma that penetrates selection; various American importers. —M.L. the wine to the end. The real issue, however, is that Fratelli Casetta 2006 Riserva (Barbaresco); there isn’t the dense core of fruit you need to support it Michele Taliano 2007 Roche dra Bossora 88 $NA. Earthy notes of white mushroom, shaved all. Indeed, the wine presents a thin, compact texture. 89 Riserva (Roero); $NA. This Riserva Roero truffle or oak barrel open the nose of this Riserva Bar- Imported by George Wines. —M.L. offers a very nice balance between Nebbiolo’s astrin- baresco and are soon followed by toasted hazelnuts and gent typicity set against soft wood renderings. There’s a dark chocolate. The fruit element is minimal but the Dante Rivetti 2006 Bricco Riserva (Bar- subtle sweetness here in the form of mature fruit and wine shows nice tightness and firmness on the finish. 86 baresco); $65. A slightly bitter aroma of citrus spice. Roero offers good value for lovers of Barbaresco Imported by Sober LLC. —M.L. or sour spice opens the nose of this Riserva Barbaresco. and Barolo. —M.L. There’s also a hint of dried apple or pear and the wine Nada Giuseppe 2006 Casot Riserva (Bar- follows with a tight, lean mouthfeel. Imported by Monchiero Carbone 2007 Printi Riserva 88 baresco); $NA. A Riserva Barbaresco from the Vinifera Imports. —M.L. 89 (Roero); $47. One of our favorite Roeros of Casot cru, this pretty wine delivers dark wood and the 2007 vintage, Printi Riserva offers dark color and toasted nut along with earthy aromas of porcini mush- concentration with dense pulp and extraction. The full- room and old leather. There’s an aged quality to the GATTINARA bodied style is reinforced by aromas of mature fruit, fruit as well that appears as cassis syrup and dried black cherry and spice. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L. prune. Imported by Bayfield Importing Ltd. —M.L. Travaglini 2004 Riserva (Gattinara); $59. 90 For full review see page 10. Renato Buganza 2008 Bric Paradis (Roero); Punset 2008 Campo Quadro (Barbaresco); 89 $NA. This expression of Roero by vintner 88 $NA. Organic and biodynamic Punset offers Torraccia del Piantavigna 2005 Gattinara; Renato Buganza opens with an inky-dark, saturated Nebbiolo-based wines that are very difficult to assess. 88 $40. Made with 100% Nebbiolo, this Gattinara color and imparts pretty oak renderings of vanilla and Try them too young (as in this case) and the wines often shows nicely evolved aromas of dried fruit and spice cinnamon over cherry and cassis. There’s a gritty, tex- lack clarity and balance. Wait ten years or more and beyond a surprising bright and vibrant appearance. The tured quality to the finish along with a blast of freshness they blossom into something very special indeed. The tannins are silky and smooth and the wine is ready to at the end. —M.L. 2008 Campo Quadro illustrates this point exactly. drink now. Imported by Francoli USA. —M.L. Imported by Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. Angelo Negro & Figli 2007 Sudisfà Riserva 88 (Roero); $NA. This Roero Riserva shows terti- Rocca Felice 2008 Barbaresco; $29. Here’s a ROERO ary aromas of candied fruit and crushed licorice that 88 cheerful but simple expression of Nebbiolo that show the aging process, and some slight oxidation, has opens with aromas of leather, dried fruit, earth and Pelassa 2007 Antaniolo Riserva (Roero); started. Drying notes of tobacco and herbs appear on crushed white pepper. The tannins are smooth, fine and 90 $NA. This beautiful Riserva expression really the tight close. Drink now. Imported by Nardone Wine. silky. Imported by Saranty Imports. —M.L. shows the potential of Roero, a little-known red wine —M.L. from Piedmont based on the Nebbiolo grape just like Salvano 2006 Barbaresco; $60. Earthy tones its cousins Barbaresco and Barolo. Soft oak layers are Cascina del Pozzo 2007 Montegalletto Ris- 88 of white mushroom and dried prune open the set against a solid background of red fruit and the over- 88 erva (Roero); $NA. Vintner Gianmario nose of this tight and traditional Barbaresco. From the all balance is impressive. Imported by Slocum & Sons, Marchisio has crafted a complex and generous Roero 2006 vintage the wine delivers an elegant mouthfeel Inc. —M.L. Riserva with mature fruit tones that soften the blow of and complexity followed by power and firmness. Nebbiolo’s natural astringency. This is a streamlined, Imported by Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L. Angelo Negro & Figli 2008 Prachiosso dry wine with a touch of menthol freshness on the 89 (Roero); $NA. The 2008 edition of Roero Pra- close. —M.L. Villadoria 2008 Barbaresco; $NA. Here is a chiosso offers a big change over last year. This is an 88 tight, traditional expression of Nebbiolo with a extremely generous, soft and modern interpretation Cascina Val del Prete 2008 (Roero); $60. streamlined mouthfeel that is peppered with ripe fruit, with evident oak and vanilla renderings and loads of 88 This Nebbiolo definitely opens with playful licorice and root beer aromas. There’s a note of bitter- ripe black fruit. Nebbiolo’s natural tightness will soften hints of over-ripeness with strawberry, blackberry and ness and astringency on the close that will soften with in 1–2 more years. Imported by Nardone Wine. —M.L. Indian spice. That added softness and extra pulp really time. Drink after 2018. Imported by Saranty Imports. helps to balance out the variety’s natural astringency. —M.L. Cascina Cà Rossa 2008 Audinaggio Imported by Vinity Wine Company. —M.L. 89 (Roero); $42. Here is a ripe and succulent Giacosa Fratelli 2008 Basarin (Barbaresco); Nebbiolo that opens with black cherry, strawberry, Deltetto 2007 Braja Riserva (Roero); $26. 87 $19. From the Basarin cru of Barbaresco, this vanilla, cinnamon and spice. This expression is a softer, 88 This Riserva Nebbiolo delivers a compact, compact wine offers aromas of cola, spice and mature very approachable Roero with enduring fruit flavors on streamlined style with crisp freshness that drives aro- fruit with a lactic touch of milk chocolate at the back. the finish. Imported by Vinity Wine Company. —M.L. mas of forest berry and cassis. The wine shows a dry, Aromatically, it’s slightly disjointed, but in the mouth austere style with a slightly gritty texture. Imported by the wine shows the crispness and tannic structure of Cascina Chicco 2007 Valmaggiore Riserva Casa Bruno. —M.L. classic Nebbiolo. Imported by Bedford International. 89 (Roero); $48. Valmaggiore Riserva exhibits —M.L. dark color and concentration with a mixed bag of aro- Giacomo Vico 2007 Roero; $33. Roero is a mas that spans dark fruit, prune, olive and caper. The 88 red, Nebbiolo-based wine from northern Italy La Spinona 2008 Bricco Faset (Barbaresco); mouth sees more richness and softness with a seductive that offers tight tannins and bright berry flavors. It’s a 87 $NA. This is a good portrait of Nebbiolo save touch of sweet spice on the finish. Imported by Vinifera less formal cousin to Barolo and Barbaresco that would for a pungent touch of powder or solvent that distracts Imports. —M.L. pair with chicken, pork or veal. This wine offers cassis from the overall harmony of fruit. Those strong ele- and cherry overtones. Imported by Peter Warren Selec- ments are not outside the great boundaries of this Matteo Correggia 2007 Roche d’Ampsej tions. —M.L. important native Italian grape and are more than for- 89 Riserva (Roero); $NA. Here is yet another given in this case. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Roero Riserva from the successful 2007 vintage that Giovanni Almondo 2008 Bric Valdiana Sons, Ltd. —M.L. shows a good use of oak set against tighter sour berry 88 (Roero); $NA. Like many Roero wines this vin-

WineMag.com | 39 BUYING I GUIDE tage, the winning key here is a balance between ripe nutmeg that are offset by cassis, dried blueberry, Negretti 2007 Nebbiolo d’Alba; $30. fruit aromas and a tightly structured consistency. The leather and tobacco. This sturdy red wine presents a 89 There’s a subdued, elegant feel to this Nebbi- wine’s power and body is rendered more approachable very nice ensemble that is capped by a tight, astringent olo-based wine that gives it a feminine, understated thanks to careful oak softness. —M.L. close. —M.L. aura. Firmly silky tannins are followed by small berry, tobacco and cola flavors. Imported by Delectation Lorenzo Negro 2007 San Francesco Riserva Renato Buganza 2008 Gerbole (Roero); Wines. —M.L. 88 (Roero); $NA. Roero San Francesco Riserva 87 $NA. Gerbole is a very distinctive Roero with shows a soft, meaty style with succulent fruit tones and power, heat and undertones of cherry liqueur. The Tenuta Rocca 2007 Sorì Ornati (Nebbiolo exotic spice. The mouthfeel is less generous than the mouthfeel is compact and lean with forest berry and 89 d’Alba); $27. Tenuta Rocca offers this clean nose. On the palate, the wine delivers a thin, drying bramble on the close. Pair this Piedmont red with expression of Nebbiolo that shows some of the natural and compact style with a pretty spice aftertaste. —M.L. creamy porcini risotto. —M.L. structure and density of the popular 2007 vintage. The wine is taut and streamlined with a bright finish of black Monchiero Carbone 2008 Sru (Roero); Careglio 2008 Roero; $NA. This Roero opens cherry, dark spice and licorice. Imported by Tri-Vin 88 $NA. There’s a grittiness or tightness of texture 86 with fresh, chewy and mature tones of ripe Imports. —M.L. here that recalls carob or dried prune. This quality cherry, dark fruit, plum, spice and tar. The mouthfeel is makes for an interesting, food-friendly red that is fur- layered with more spice and meaty fruit nuances Damilano 2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba; $17. This ther colored by tones of chocolate, leather and pipe throughout. —M.L. 88 is a lovely Nebbiolo that serves as a perfect tobacco. Pulpy, dark concentration is backed by drying introductory wine for those interested in eventually tannins. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L. Fabrizio Battaglino 2008 Sergentin expanding their knowledge of Barbaresco and Barolo. 86 (Roero); $NA. Sergentin, a Nebbiolo-based Made with the same grape, this wine offers small berry Cantina del Nebbiolo 2008 Roero; $NA. Roero, exhibits soft oak shadings of exotic spice and aromas backed by ethereal tones of violet and licorice. 87 This fresh Nebbiolo-based Roero from Cantina vanilla along with dark berry and cassis. In the mouth, Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. dei Nebbiolo offers pretty intensity with aromas of tar, the wine shows a thin, compact style with a touch of Mauro Sebaste 2007 Parigi (Nebbiolo licorice and a touch of sweet cherry liqueur. There isn’t sourness on the finish. —M.L. much pulp or meat here but the finish is both crisp and 88 d’Alba); $NA. This pretty vintage of Parigi (a tart. —M.L. Fratelli Casetta 2007 Riserva (Roero); $NA. pure expression of the noble Nebbiolo grape from northern Italy) offers well-balanced aromas of cherry This Riserva Roero is a low-key wine with subtle Cascina Chicco 2008 Montespinato 86 and forest fruit against toasted almond and licorice. The fruit and spice characteristics wrapped around a thin, (Roero); $40. This Roero offers density, pulp tannins are silky and fine. Imported by Tutto Vino. — 87 streamlined mouthfeel. The best thing to do with a and dried fruit characteristics of prune, cassis and can- M.L. wine like this is pair it with a sweetish, fatty food such as died apricot. The nice thing is that the mouthfeel is oil roasted tomatoes stuffed with herbs and bread- rounded off by soft shadings of ground clove and cinna- Virna Borgogno 2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba; crumbs. Imported by Sober LLC. —M.L. mon. Tart bitterness on the close implies a pairing with 88 $NA. Virna Borgogno presents a clean, elegant cheesy pasta. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. expression of Nebbiolo with sharp crispness and Pace 2007 Riserva (Roero); $NA. Earthy, defined aromas of forest berry, cola and Spanish cedar. rusty notes open this Roero Riserva and segue Malvirà 2007 Mombeltramo Riserva Neb- 86 You’ll like the linear, direct approach of this red wine to dark fruit and prune. This Nebbiolo-based wine biolo (Roero); $NA. This dense Nebbiolo from northern Italy. —M.L. 87 does, however, present a softer, more yielding mouth- opens with a dark, concentrated style that is followed by feel than you might expect for the naturally astringent chewy, mature aromas of ripe fruit, mocha and carob Enrico Serafino 2007 Diauleri (Nebbiolo seed. There’s a soft note of spice along with tight, drying grape variety. —M.L. 87 d’Alba); $32. This is a silky and soft Nebbiolo tannins on the finish. Imported by Trilussa Wine Com- with bright berry aromas and simple spice nuances. Cascina Cà Rossa 2007 Monpissano Ris- pany . —M.L. There’s an elegant, feminine quality to this red wine, erva (Roero); $48. 85 There’s a tiny touch of but it also shows power and determination. Imported Marco Porello 2008 Torretta (Roero); $26. volatility here that comes forth aromatically as apple by Palm Bay International. —M.L. 87 Roero Torretta offers that extra touch of cider or mature raspberry. Often those pungent, verti- ripeness, softness and pulp that helps balance out the cal notes help elevate and define a wine, not necessarily Mauro Sebaste 2009 Parigi (Nebbiolo natural bitterness and astringency of Nebbiolo. Aromas in a negative manner, and that seems to be the case 87 d’Alba); $NA. There’s a slightly floral or soapy include dark, tar-like nuances with spice, plum and here. Imported by Vinity Wine Company. —M.L. note that appears on the bouquet of this youthful worn leather. Imported by Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. expression of Nebbiolo. Smooth tannins are enhanced Malvirà 2007 Renesio Riserva (Roero); by crisp berry flavors. Imported by Tutto Vino. —M.L. Pelassa 2006 Antaniolo (Roero); $NA. 85 $NA. There’s a note of wet earth or rubber that 87 Roero Antaniolo opens with fresh, fragrant aro- emerges from the bouquet before the fruit tones do. Paolo Manzone 2009 Mirinè (Nebbiolo mas of forest fruit and bramble followed by a tight, Once the wine is given more time in the glass, dried 87 d’Alba); $38. This easygoing Nebbiolo delivers clean mouthfeel. Pair this wine with roast chicken or prune and cassis come through. This wine’s tight, com- bright notes of forest fruit, cherry cola and root beer. turkey with sage and sausage stuffing. Imported by pact style would pair with most easy meat dishes. The tannins are tight and firm but also balanced by the Slocum & Sons, Inc. —M.L. Imported by Trilussa Wine Company . —M.L. wine’s succulent fruit flavors. Imported by Quintessen- tial Wines. —M.L. Ponchione Maurizio 2008 Monfrini 87 (Roero); $NA. Roero Monfrini offers mascu- NEBBIOLO D’ALBA Rocca Felice 2009 Nebbiolo (Nebbiolo line and brawny aromas of leather, tobacco and dark 87 d’Alba); $15. Here’s a simple but streamlined spice. Dried fruit aromas are further enhanced by light Marziano Abbona 2008 Bricco Barone expression of Nebbiolo that opens with a bright ruby nuances of tar and asphalt that are typical of the Nebbi- 89 (Nebbiolo d’Alba); $20. Bricco Barone is a color and clean aromas of forest berry, toasted almond olo grape. That astringency pops up on the finish. smokey, meaty expression of Nebbiolo with bold aro- and spice. Pair this wine with cheesy homemade pasta Imported by Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. mas of black fruit, prune, dried tobacco leaf and finely sauce. Imported by Saranty Imports. —M.L. milled white pepper. This pretty wine ends with a mas- Rabino 2008 Roero; $NA. Roero Rabino is culine blast of earthy, dusty tones. Imported by Freder- Orlando Abrigo 2008 Tutto a Mano Val- 87 accented by sweet touches of cinnamon and ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. 86 maggiore (Nebbiolo d’Alba); $NA. Here’s a

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 fresh and focused Nebbiolo from Alba, northern Italy, Il Vino dei Padri 2009 150 Anniversario loads of red cherry, chocolate fudge and cinnamon. It’s with sweet berry and cherry nuances backed by crisp 87 ( d’Asti); $20. Made to celebrate the fun, rich and easy to drink. Pair it with meatloaf or lamb and sharp acidity. Pair this wine with foods that have 150th anniversary of Italy, this bright Barbera shows chops. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. some sort of heavy cheese or cream sauce component. earthy tones of button mushroom and dried fruit —M.L. backed by dense concentration and fresh crispness. Pair Cascina Adelaide 2006 Amabilin (Barbera this lush red wine with steak in creamy porcini sauce. 89 d’Alba Superiore); $52. This hearty Barbera Imported by Uva Imports. —M.L. d’Alba exhibits a dark, toasty style with rich layers of BARBERA D’ASTI generous fruit, blueberry and sweet Christmas spice. Pico Maccario 2010 Lavignone (Barbera The oak element is evident and helps to tame the wine’s Arbiola 2007 Romilda XII (Barbera d’Asti 87 d’Asti); $13. Lavignone is a simple but classy natural sharpness and acidity. Imported by Tesori 91 Superiore Nizza); $NA. For food lovers, Barbera with solid aromas of forest berry, cassis and Wines. —M.L. there’s nothing better than a quality Barbera to pair with fresh tobacco leaf. The wine would pair with fried zuc- Attilio Ghisolfi 2006 Maggiora (Barbera cheesy pasta or oven-roasted lasagna. This is a thicker, chini flowers stuffed with melted mozzarella cheese. d’Alba); $25. more extracted expression than Arbiola’s Carlotta with Imported by Grape Expectations (CA). —M.L. 88 Barbera is among the most food- friendly wines from one of the most unabashedly food- elaborate oak renderings and ripe, juicy berry and Cascina La Ghersa 2009 Piagè (Barbera friendly countries on earth. This expression is elaborate cherry flavors. This is one big and bold Barbera. —M.L. 86 d’Asti); $NA. Here is a simple, informal and bright with plump fullness wrapped around a Arbiola 2008 Carlotta (Barbera d’Asti); expression of Barbera that ushers forth bright aromas of crisp, refreshing close. Imported by Quintessential forest fruit, cola and dried currants. Those ripe berry Wines. —M.L. $NA. Inky and dense, this bright Barbera d’Asti 88 flavors are ultimately washed away by the wine’s fresh offers an impressive bouquet of sweet cherry, cinna- acidity. —M.L. Mauro Sebaste 2009 Santa Rosalia (Bar- mon and spicy clove. There’s a chewy, succulent quality 88 bera d’Alba); $NA. This is a toasty, oak-influ- to this wine that is followed by cleansing acidity and a Castello di Gabiano 2009 La Braja (Barbera cenced expression of Barbera with pretty notes of cherry pretty menthol close. —M.L. 86 d’Asti); $NA. This light and fresh Barbera d’Asti and blackberry backed by soft vanilla and toasted would make a perfect companion to cheesy pizza with almond. Pair this wine with roast chicken and potatoes Cascina La Ghersa 2005 Vignassa (Barbera sausage and broccoli. The wine offers youthful aromas of with chopped rosemary. Imported by Tutto Vino. —M.L. 88 d’Asti Superiore Nizza); $NA. Cascina La ripe cherry, raspberry and sour almond skin. —M.L. Ghersa offers a complete picture of the Barbera grape Negretti 2008 Barbera d’Alba Superiore; through its Vignassa line of wines. This successful vin- Coppo 2009 L’Avvocata (Barbera d’Asti); 88 $20. There’s a plump, meaty note to the bou- tage delivers mature aromas of cassis and blackberry 86 $NA. Barbera d’Asti L’Avvocata opens with tart quet of this darkly concentrated Barbera d’Alba Superi- backed by cola and spice. —M.L. aromas of small berry and white cherry with a touch of ore that helps usher forth mature aromas of prune, pungent smoke or burnt toast. Light in color and con- black cherry and moist pipe tobacco. Those ripe fruit Castello di Gabiano 2007 Adornes (Barbera sistency, the wine closes with a crisp, sharp finish. tones help dampen the grape’s natural acidity. Imported 88 d’Asti Superiore); $NA. Not to be confused Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. by Delectation Wines. —M.L. with Castello di Gabbiano (a wine estate in Tuscany), Piedmont’s Castello di Gabiano delivers this top-shelf Cascina La Ghersa 2007 Camparó (Barbera Tenuta Rocca 2006 Ròca Neira (Barbera expression of Barbera with rich concentration and 85 d’Asti Superiore); $NA. There’s an earthy 88 d’Alba); $35. Here is a bright and chewy Bar- intense aromas of black cherry and toasted nut. —M.L. note of white mushroom or cured meat that is followed bera d’Alba with loads of ripe fruit and blackberry by bright freshness in the mouth. Pair this easy Bar- backed by thick density and bright freshness. This is Pico Maccario 2008 Tre Roveri (Barbera bera with cheesy pasta or pizza. —M.L. the perfect wine to pair with homemade lasagna with 88 d’Asti Superiore); $30. Tre Roveri is a bright cheese and sliced sausage. Imported by Tri-Vin and compelling Barbera with a subtle veil of spice and Imports. —M.L. toasted nut that sits over a bright base of berry fruit. BARBERA D’ALBA The wine finishes with a drying, silky mouthfeel. Giacomo Vico 2009 Barbera d’Alba; $18. Ca’ Viola 2008 Bric du Luv (Barbera Imported by Grape Expectations (CA). —M.L. 87 Aged only in stainless steel, this youthful Bar- 91 d’Alba); $55. This is a spectacular expression bera d’Alba offers pristine tones of cranberry, blueberry Cascina La Ghersa 2004 Vignassa (Barbera of Barbera with soft layers of black cherry, chocolate, and white almond skin. In the mouth, the wine closes spice and crushed clove. It’s long, soft, opulent and gen- with soft tannins and bright freshness. Imported by The d’Asti Superiore Nizza); $NA. This aged 87 erous on the close. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Wine Company. —M.L. expression from the Nizza subzone of Asti offers terti- ary aromas of dried tobacco and dried prune. The vari- Giacomo Vico 2008 Barbera d’Alba Superi- Rocca Felice 2009 Barbera d’Alba Superi- ety’s characteristic acidity kicks in on the finish. —M.L. 90 ore; $25. This lusciously dark and concentrated 87 ore; $17. Highly influenced by toasted oak Barbera delivers rich aromas of mature fruit, prune, notes, this bright Barbera d’Alba opens with aromas of Cascina La Ghersa 2006 Vignassa (Barbera blackberry, exotic spice and tobacco. It’s an opulent honey-coated almond, vanilla bean and distant fruit d’Asti Superiore Nizza); $NA. Slightly more 87 wine with soft tannins and bright acidity. Imported by tones. There’s a subtle touch of sweetness on the close. subdued in aromatic intensity, this vintage of Vignassa Vigneti D’Italia. —M.L. Imported by Saranty Imports. —M.L. does offer power and determination in the mouth. The bouquet is comprised of red fruit and spice elements Marziano Abbona 2009 Rinaldi (Barbera Salvano 2007 Maestrale (Barbera d’Alba); along with crisp acidity. —M.L. 90 d’Alba); $23. Barbera Rinaldi opens with a 87 $30. Maestrale is a dark and well-balanced Bar- darkly concentrated appearance and ripe aromas of bera d’Alba with ripe fruit tones of black cherry and Coppo 2008 Camp du Rouss (Barbera blackberry, prune, leather and moist pipe tobacco. forest fruit that shape a dense, fruity mouthfeel. The 87 d’Asti); $NA. Barbera Camp du Rouss offers a There’s definitely a plump, ripe and chewy quality to crisp acidic close helps this wine to pair with cauliflower bright, full style with generous tones of cherry and this wine with loads of chocolate as well. Imported by goat cheese gratin. Imported by Vidalco International, blueberry. This is a genuinely cheerful, refreshing and Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. LLC. —M.L. food-friendly red wine that would pair with simple meat dishes or hearty pasta with grated Parmigiano. Ca’ Viola 2009 Brichet (Barbera d’Alba); Tenuta Rocca 2008 Barbera d’Alba; $19. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. 89 $35. Brichet is a soft and plump Barbera with 87 Tenuta Rocca delivers a taut, balanced Barbera

WineMag.com | 41 BUYING I GUIDE d’Alba with bright fruit tones of cherry and plump blue- cherry and offers a thick, creamy mouthfeel. Imported complex, picture. Imported by Quintessential Wines. berry backed by subtle spice and almond. The wine by Lauber Imports. —M.L. —M.L. offers a medium to long finish with bright crispness at the end. Imported by Tri-Vin Imports. —M.L. Clavesana 2008 Dolcetto di Dogliani; $NA. Pecchenino 2007 Vigna Botti Nebbiolo 86 This plump and juicy Dolcetto opens with easy 90 (Langhe); $NA. Pecchenino has produced a Paolo Manzone 2009 Fiorenza (Barbera fruit tones of blueberry and black cherry followed by a lovely Nebbiolo-based wine with elegant tones of 86 d’Alba); $22. There’s a tiny hint of cured meat, sour, slightly sharp mouthfeel. Pair this informal wine licorice and tar followed by fresh layers of forest fruit bresaola or barnyard at the very onset. Those flatter with meat or oven-roased pasta. Imported by Lauber and chopped mint. It feels tight and compact in the aromas are followed by brighter and sharper tones of Imports. —M.L. mouth with a long finish driven by silky tannins. —M.L. berry fruit and root beer. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.L. Clavesana 2009 Dolcetto di Dogliani; $NA. Tenuta Rocca 2006 Ornati (Langhe); $37. 86 This Dolcetto from the celebrated Dogliani 90 Ornati is a wonderful wine to pair with home- wine region in Piedmont offers simple, short consis- made tagliatelle and veal ragú or grilled pork sausages. DOLCETTO D’ALBA tency with bright fruit flavors and aromas. It’s an easy- This red blend from Piedmont has the succulence and drinking, one-dimensional wine that would pair with acidity to pair with almost any meal and a natural inten- Ca’ Viola 2009 Barturot (Dolcetto d’Alba); picnic foods or grilled sausage. Imported by Lauber sity of fragrances that won’t easily be overwhelmed. 90 $35. Plump and rich with sweet aromas of Imports. —M.L. Imported by Tri-Vin Imports. —M.L. Maraschino cherry, blackberry syrup, cinnamon and creamy vanilla, Barturot speaks highly of the Dolcetto Giacomo Vico 2009 Nebbiolo (Langhe); grape. The mouthfeel is dense, polished and dry. DOLCETTO D’ACQUI 89 $27. This is a very elegant and pure expression Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. of Nebbiolo with pristine aromas of forest fruit, cran- Il Vino dei Padri 2009 Dolcetto d’Acqui; berry, cola, white licorice and chopped herbs. Pair this Ca’ Viola 2009 Vilot (Dolcetto d’Alba); $25. 87 $18. This simple, bright Dolcetto is packed wine with wild mushroom risotto. Imported by Peter 89 This is a sophisticated and rich Dolcetto with tight with plump fruit tones, spice, leather and a touch Warren Selections. —M.L. layers of toasted nut and spice lavished over bright of moist pipe tobacco. It’s a thick, dense wine that offers Attilio Ghisolfi 2007 Nebbiolo (Langhe); berry fruit nuances. There’s freshness and good tannic loads of mature blackberry and cherry on the finish. $30. structure to boot. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Imported by Uva Imports. —M.L. 88 This lighthearted and fragrant expression of Nebbiolo opens with playful notes of cherry cola, Vigne Regali 2010 L’Ardì (Dolcetto d’Ac- Cascina Bruciata 2009 Vigneti in Rio Sordo blueberry and dusty mineral that give the wine back- qui); $12. This is a plump, succulent and bone and staying power. Pair it with lamb or pork (Dolcetto d’Alba); $23. This is a thick and 87 87 slightly sweet wine that is a pleasure to drink and pair chops. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.L. vinous Dolcetto with bright grape and blueberry aro- with easy foods such as meatloaf or roast pork. This mas followed by a touch of rubber and spice. It offers a Dolcetto opens with a vibrant ruby color and pretty Elvio Cogno 2008 Montegrilli (Langhe); slightly sweet aftertaste with dense, plump concentra- aromas of blueberry and cherry. Imported by Banfi $31. This elegant 50-50 blend of Barbera and tion. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L. 88 Vintners. Best Buy. —M.L. Nebbiolo (a popular blending formula for many Langhe red wines) offers the pulpy fruit and acidity of Barbera Giuseppe Cortese 2009 Trifolera (Dol- Vigne Regali 2009 L’Ardì (Dolcetto d’Ac- set against the finesse and menthol-like intensity of cetto d’Alba); $18. Dolcetto Trifolera opens 87 qui); $12. L’Ardì shows sweet and succulent Nebbiolo. It’s a match made in heaven. Imported by with round and generous berry flavors of cherry, blue- 87 fruit flavors with plump aromas of red cherry and plum. Vias Imports. —M.L. berry and blackberry backed by a thick, rich but one- Dolcetto is a great wine to pair with grilled sausage or dimensional mouthfeel. This is an plump, easy wine to pepperoni pizza. Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best Orlando Abrigo 2006 Livraie (Langhe); pair with roast beef or meatloaf. Imported by Buy. —M.L. 88 $NA. Livraie is a thick, toasty red wine with ter- Winebow. —M.L. tiary aromas of candied fruit and lemon zest followed by mature fruit and dried prune. There’s a sweet note of Paolo Manzone 2010 Magna (Dolcetto LANGHE oak in the mouth that recalls cinnamon and crushed d’Alba); $18. 86 Magna is a classic expression of clove. —M.L. Dolcetto with pulpy berry aromas backed by a touch of Ca’ Viola 2008 Nebbiolo (Langhe); $70. sweet almond paste, cassis and cherry liqueur. There’s a 91 This is a gorgeous expression of Nebbiolo with Salvano 2007 Trabuch (Langhe); $30. You’ll hint of sourness or bitterness on the close. Imported by rich oak influences that have been expertly contrasted 88 love the elegant packaging, seals and silk rib- Quintessential Wines. —M.L. against bright berry aromas. Lasting flavors of spice, bons that adorn this festive red blend from Piedmont. leather and sweet tobacco seal the deal. Imported by Aromas of ripe fruit, spice, leather and dark chocolate Vias Imports. —M.L. are followed by tight, sweet tannins and a lean mouth- DOLCETTO DI DOGLIANI feel. Imported by Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L. Ceretto 2008 Monsordo (Langhe); $38. A Marziano Abbona 2009 Papà Celso (Dol- 91 modern and very attractive blend of Cabernet, Serradenari 2007 Renoir (Langhe); $15. A 88 cetto di Dogliani); $25. True to the natural Merlot, Syrah and Nebbiolo, Monsordo is a landmark 88 blend of Pinot Noir and other native grapes of characteristics of the celebrated Dolcetto grape (a red that shows us another side of Langhe winemaking Piedmont, Renoir opens with a dark, concentrated native variety of northern Italy), Papà Celso opens with (the historic home of Barolo and Barbaresco). Dense appearance and aromas of forest fruit, exotic spice and plump and superrich aromas of blackberry, cherry and rich, it delivers opulent aromas of red fruit, toasted tobacco. Tight tannins and ripe fruit flavors mostly liqueur, chocolate fudge and sweet tobacco. Very nice. almond, leather and tobacco. Imported by Wilson overshadow the delicate Burgundian grape. Imported Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. Daniels Ltd. —M.L. by Barton Brescome. —M.L.

Clavesana 2008 Il Clou di Clavesana (Dol- Attilio Ghisolfi 2005 Alta Bussia (Langhe); Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy 87 cetto di Dogliani); $NA. Match this easy wine 90 $80. Here’s a red blend from Piedmont that 88 2008 Martinenga Nebbiolo (Langhe); $20. with brick oven pizza on sourdough crust or juicy opens with an inky-dark color and rich concentration. Martinenga is one of the most celebrated vineyard crus grilled sausage. Made with the Dolcetto grape, the wine Aromas of Maraschino cherry, blueberry jam, spice and for top-shelf Barbaresco and Marchesi di Gresy puts is loaded with bright fruit tones of blueberry and black cinnamon complete an intense, albeit not particularly aside a section from this site to make this less formal

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 expression of Nebbiolo. Approachable and bright, the Rivetti Massimo 2006 Bricco Avene Nebbi- cheese and meat and its crisp acidity would keep the wine shows bright berry and cooling cola aromas. 87 olo (Langhe); $23. Nebbiolo Bricco Avene is palate refreshed. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. aged in large oak casks to shape a structured, fine wine with forest floor and berry backed by toasted almond Rocca Felice 2009 Arpàss (Langhe); $19. Attilio Ghisolfi 2007 Pinay (Langhe); $NA. and dried tobacco. Firm tannins make this wine appro- 86 This Italian red blend offers simple, short aro- 87 Pinay is a tight and defined red blend from priate for red meat or aged cheese. Imported by Wine mas of red cherry and blueberry over a tight, crisp northern Italy with bright accents of cherry cola, forest Emporium. —M.L. mouthfeel. Pair this easy wine with roast beef or ground berry, licorice and dark mineral. There’s a sharp, sour meat pasta sauce. Imported by Saranty Imports. —M.L. note on the close that would pair with smoked cheese. Salvano 2007 Gentilium (Langhe); $35. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.L. 87 Gentilium will catch your eye thanks to its fancy Rocche Costamagna 2007 Roccardo Nebbi- bottle embossed with a big wax seal. The wine inside is 86 olo (Langhe); $25. Nebbiolo Roccardo is a Boffa 2006 Nebbiolo (Langhe); $18. Aged less remarkable although it is correct and satisfying. thin, light and focused wine with defined aromas of for- 87 12 months in large oak casks, this bright Nebbi- Earthy tones of white mushroom and black licorice est fruit and bramble and a sharp, crisp close. Pair this olo offers pretty aromas of small berry, tar, licorice and powder are backed by fresh crispness. Imported by wine with ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese cigar smoke backed by tight intensity and structure. Pair Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L. and served with melted butter. Imported by Laird & this powerful wine with braised quail or pork tenderloin. Company. —M.L. Imported by PWM Merchants Inc. Astoria. —M.L. Socré 2006 Nebbiolo (Langhe); $20. Here’s 87 a fun and slightly less formal expression of Neb- Viberti 2010 Dolbà (Langhe); $22. This Cantina del Pino 2006 Nebbiolo (Langhe); biolo (especially when compared to the great wines of 86 plush, food-friendly blend of Dolcetto and Bar- 87 $28. Here’s a dark and sophisticated Nebbiolo Barbaresco and Barolo) that offers tight fruit nuances of bera offers foxy notes of fresh grapes and black cherry with an informal twist (including a glass cork that locks white cherry and forest berry backed by light shadings along a clean, albeit simple, mouthfeel. A good pairing in freshness). Fruit characteristics include white cherry, of spice and smoke. Imported by David Vincent Selec- idea is crispy fried chicken. Imported by Domace Vino forest berry and wild raspberry. Thanks to 10 months of tion. —M.L. LLC—M.L. oak aging, you also get structure, softness, spice and Virna Borgogno 2008 Red (Langhe); $18. Cantine Lanzavecchia 2010 Cren del Gufo tobacco. Imported by Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. 87 This crisp red blend from the Langhe in north- 85 Nebbiolo (Langhe); $15. Gufo means “owl” Cascina Adelaide 2007 Jula (Langhe); $55. ern Italy offers sharp notes of dill and green olive in Italian and indeed a cartoon of one is pictured on backed by forest berry and white cherry. There’s a taut, the label. A pure expression of Nebbiolo, this wine Like most wines from Cascina Adelaide, the oak 87 linear feel that is enhanced by the wine’s fine, compact offers drying mineral or chalky notes with some cherry footprint is hard to ignore. Spicy notes of clove and texture. Imported by Ionia Atlantic. —M.L. in the background over a crisp, clean style. Pair it with black pepper are wrapped around bright, plump cherry thick crust Chicago pizza. Imported by Saranty aromas. The wine is soft, approachable and easygoing Cascina Adelaide 2007 Nebbiolo (Langhe); Imports. —M.L. overall. Imported by Tesori Wines. —M.L. 86 $35. This easy expression of Nebbiolo from Cascina Adelaide shows slightly disjointed tones of Marziano Abbona 2008 Zerosolfiti Cascina Bruciata 2008 Usignolo Nebbiolo cherry and toasted oak (like the aromas you get with (Langhe); $NA. This bold Langhe blend of (Langhe); $27. This is a simple, fruit-forward 85 87 freshly sawed wood) and a short, clean close. Those Barbera, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo opens with funky aro- Nebbiolo with ripe notes of strawberry and raspberry toasted notes seem a bit heavy on the light frame of mas of barnyard, used leather, moist earth, black fruit jam backed by light shadings of tobacco and spice. The fruit offered here. Imported by Tesori Wines. —M.L. and cured meat. Zerosolfiti means “zero sulfites” in Ital- wine shows bright acidity and clean, polished tannins. ian. —M.L. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L. Cigliuti 2007 Briccoserra (Langhe); $52. Briccoserra (a blend of red grapes from Pied- Orlando Abrigo 2008 Settevie Nebbiolo 86 mont in northern Italy) offers awkward aromas of MONFERRATO (Langhe); $14. 87 This easygoing, fresh Nebbiolo mature fruit and smoked meat, along the lines of honey delivers crisp aromas of small berry and forest floor baked ham or cured beef. You can feel the heat in the Pico Maccario 2008 Cantamerli (Monfer- with background notes of root beer and smoked bacon. mouth and the bold intensity of the structure. Imported 90 rato); $30. A blend of Barbera and Cabernet Pair this wine with beef stew and potatoes. Imported by by Indigenous Selections. —M.L. Sauvignon, Cantamerli delivers a dark, garnet color and Ionia Atlantic. —M.L. bright aromas of blackberry, red rose and exotic spice. Fontanafredda 2010 Già (Langhe); $NA/1 It’s a solid wine with enduring fruit flavors and a long Paolo Manzone 2009 Ardì (Langhe); $18. 86 L. Già markets itself as “the wine you’ve been finish. Imported by Grape Expectations (CA). —M.L. 87 This red blend from the Langhe offers one- waiting for.” Packaged in a one-liter bottle, this blend of dimentional aromas of wet earth and red cherry. Pair Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto offers simple fruit Coppo 2007 Alterego (Monferrato); $NA. this wine with a heaping plate of pasta and meat ragù. tones and firm tannins. It’s a youthful, easy-drinking 89 This red blend from Piedmont opens with Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.L. red at just 11% alcohol. Imported by Domaine Select herbal and medicinal notes that seem more on the dry Wine Estates. —M.L. side rather than the green or underripe side. Indeed, Principiano Ferdinando 2009 Coste Nebbi- the concept of overall maturity is further reinforced by 87 olo (Langhe); $NA. This is a tight, compact Giacomo Vico NV Red (Langhe); $13. A 50- the wine’s sweet, chewy finish. Imported by Folio Fine Nebbiolo that opens with ripe, almost jammy red 86 50 blend of Barbera and Nebbiolo, this informal Wine Partners. —M.L. cherry and strawberry aromas backed by fresh tobacco red from northern Italy opens with bright cherry and and Indian spice. The wine closes with thin crispness blueberry aromas. Pair this crisp wine with fried Michele Chiarlo 2008 MonTald Albarossa and a compact feel overall. Imported by Ideal Wine chicken or breaded veal cutlets. Imported by The Wine 88 (Monferrato); $NA. Albarossa is a cross and Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. Company. —M.L. between two grape varieties, Barbera and Nebbiolo, that offers plump, fruity density and a smooth, soft Rattalino 2007 Ventisette27 Nebbiolo Giuseppe Cortese 2008 Nebbiolo close. Along the way are highlights of bright acidity and 87 (Langhe); $NA. This easy Nebbiolo offers 86 (Langhe); $20. This easy, thin and crisp expres- certain tannic firmness. —M.L. warm tones of spice and toasted nut wrapped around sion of Nebbiolo would pair nicely with cheddar burg- plump cherry and red fruit. That sweet and spicy con- ers and spicy mesquite barbecue sauce. The wine’s Vigne Regali 2007 La Lus Albarossa (Mon- trast is what sets this well-structured wine apart. —M.L. compact structure would complement the fat of the 88 ferrato); $30. Albarossa (a genetic cross

WineMag.com | 43 BUYING I GUIDE between Nebbiolo and Barbera) deserves more atten- bring to hamburger and hot dog picnics. Spicy fruit aro- ful and vibrant, the 2007 Taylors Pass Pinot Noir fea- tion thanks to the plump, crisp, food-friendly nature of mas are followed by sweet cherry flavors. Imported by tures full-on black cherry fruit, tinged with hints of the wines it produces. Aromas here include espresso Grape Expectations (CA). Best Buy. —M.L. herbs and licorice. It’s a beefy, chunky Pinot that should bean, black cherry, mocha and warm earthy tones. age reasonably well; drink now–2018. Imported by Ste. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. Il Vino dei Padri 2009 Bonarda (Piedmont); Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C. 85 $18. This Bonarda (a native grape of northern Il Vino dei Padri 2009 150 Anniversario Italy) offers foxy aromas of grape juice and crushed Prophet’s Rock 2007 Pinot Noir (Central 87 Ruché (Monferrato); $22. In hommage to the blueberries over a crisp, clean close. There’s a slight 89 Otago); $37. This is a rather weighty Pinot 150th anniversary of Italian unification, this elegantly touch of creamy effervescence in the mouth. Imported Noir, still filled with the exuberant fruit of youth—all designed bottle sports a bright Italian flag on the label. by Uva Imports. —M.L. plums and black cherries, framed with hints of vanilla That celebratory spirit continues thanks to the wine’s and spice. Despite the heft, the tannins are soft, making aromas of sweet cherry, cola and raspberry. Its light con- La Scolca NV Cortegaia (Piedmont); $10. this wine immediately accessible. Drink now–2015. sistency means it could be consumed slightly chilled 84 Cortegaia is a thin, ruby-colored red wine with Imported by Sherbrooke Cellars. —J.C. with cod or fish soup. Imported by Uva Imports. —M.L. easy aromas of small berry and white cherry. The mouthfeel is compact and watery but its also refresh- Clifford Bay Estate 2009 Pinot Noir (Marl- La Scolca 2007 Pinot Nero (Monferrato); ingly crisp. You could drink it chilled with appetizers. 88 borough); $15. For full review see page 11. 86 $30. This bright Pinot Nero from Monferrato in Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. Editors’ Choice. Piedmont offers ripe raspberry and cherry aromas with spice, polished stone and leather. The wine is simple Mountford 2007 Liaison Pinot Noir and lean in the mouth. Imported by Frederick Wild- PIEDMONT WHITE WINES 88 (Waipara); $33. Mountford’s Liaison offers an man & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. introduction to winemaker C.P. Lin’s Pinot Noir style, Giacomo Vico 2008 Chardonnay (Langhe); which emphasizes the grape’s sensuous texture. Cher- 90 $22. This is a lovely and extremely elegant ries, brown sugar and leather are all swathed in wisps of OTHER PIEDMONT REDS Chardonnay that opens with a luminous golden color hickory smoke and wrapped in silky tannins. Drink now. and bright aromas of yellow rose, vanilla and passion Imported by Infinity Imports. —J.C. Castello di Gabiano 2009 Il Ruvo Grigno- fruit. Pair this wine with lobster bisque or crab crakes. 87 lino (Monferrato); $NA. A pure expression Imported by Vino LeFebvre. —M.L. Spy Valley 2009 Pinot Noir (Marlborough); of Grignolino (a popular grape consumed locally in 87 $30. This medium-bodied, slightly herbal Pinot Piedmont), this wine could be served chilled with meat Coppo 2007 Monteriolo Chardonnay Noir would have scored higher had the finish been appetizers or slices of honey-roasted ham. This lightly 88 (Piedmont); $NA. Monteriolo is a rich and longer. That’s really the only knock against this other- ruby colored wine offers lively aromas of small berry creamy Chardonnay that opens with beautifully pris- wise silky, dark-fruited Pinot. Imported by Broadbent and almond skin. —M.L. tine aromas of exotic fruit, peach, vanilla and toasted Selections, Inc. —J.C. almond. The wine is soft, very smooth and promises a Salvano 2009 Fosco Dolcetto (Diano pairing with fish or white meat. Imported by Folio Fine Oyster Bay 2009 Pinot Noir (Marlbor- 87 d’Alba); $30. Fosco comes in beautiful packag- Wine Partners. —M.L. 86 ough); $20. Oyster Bay has turned a nicely ing complete with a big red wax seal on the front of the supple, easy-drinking 2009 Pinot Noir at a realistic bottle. The wine shows rich concentration and aromas Giacomo Vico 2010 Roero Arneis; $18. This price. Toast and vanilla notes accent strawberry fruit, of red fruit and a touch of natural rubber or tar. In the 87 fresh and luminous Roero Arneis will drink well finshing clean and fresh. Drink now. Imported by Oys- mouth, it shows tart, crisp and simple characteristics. with appetizers or easy vegetarian dishes for the next ter Bay Wines. —J.C. Imported by Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L. two years or so. The wine opens with a delicate golden color and aromas of white flower, citrus and stone fruit. Nick Goldschmidt 2009 Boulder Bank Torraccia del Piantavigna 2005 Nebbiolo Imported by Vigneti D’Italia. —M.L. 85 Pinot Noir (Marlborough); $18. Veteran 87 (Ghemme); $40. Mostly Nebbiolo (90%) with winemaker Nick Goldschmidt has crafted a simple, a small component of Vespalina grapes, this dark garnet Giacomo Vico 2010 Favorita (Langhe); $16. appealing Marlborough Pinot Noir featuring bright colored Ghemma offers aromas of wild mushroom, dry 86 Aged only in stainless steel to preserve its fresh, cranberry and pie-cherry fruit, some slightly mossy or earth, spice, prune and cassis. There’s an interesting clean flavors, this expression of Favorita (a little-known herbal elements, medium body and supple tannins. elegance here that is accented by crispness and firm- white wine grape from northern Italy) offers lively tones Drink now. Imported by Goldschmidt Vineyards. — ness. Imported by Francoli USA. —M.L. of lemon zest, white blossom and cut grass. Imported J.C. by The Wine Company. —M.L. Clavesana 2010 You d’Oh Something to Terroir 2009 by Ant Moore Pinot Noir 86 Me Dolcetto (Piedmont); $NA. This modern 85 (Central Otago); $15. A simple, direct, fruity interpretation of Dolcetto opens with plush, meaty NEW ZEALAND expression of Central Otago Pinot Noir, with ample tones of black cherry and blueberry backed by power black cherry fruit and a bit of weight on the palate but and concentration. The finish is short, clean and tight. PINOT NOIR not much nuance. Imported by Infinity Imports. —J.C. —M.L. Mountford 2007 Estate Pinot Noir Opawa 2009 Pinot Noir (Marlborough); Il Vino dei Padri 2010 150 Anniversario 92 (Waipara); $40. A terrific example of Waipara 84 $20. On the light-bodied side of the Pinot Noir 86 Freisa (Asti); $20. This expression of Freisa Pinot Noir, Mountford’s 2007 Estate bottling combines spectrum, with modest red-fruit aromas and flavors from the Asti area of northern Italy opens with sharp savory, herbal notes with black cherry and plum fruit accented by some funky, oaky notes of tree bark and berry and underbrush aromas with earthy, rubber-like into a wine of great complexity and nuance. The tannins charred nuts. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. tones in the background. Notice the commemorative are supple, lending a silky tinge to the long, meaty fin- bottle for Italy’s 150th Unification anniversary. ish. Drink now–2015, although that may prove conser- Saveé Sea 2009 Pinot Noir (Waipara); $16. Imported by Uva Imports. —M.L. vative. Just 50 cases imported. Imported by Infinity 84 This is a lightweight, supple Pinot Noir that Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. should be consumed over the next year or so, as the Pico Maccario 2010 Berrò (Piedmont); $10. modest cherry fruit is already starting to decay and 86 Offered in a friendly, screwcap bottle and rela- Villa Maria 2007 Taylors Pass Vineyard head toward root vegetables. Imported by RO Imports tively low in alcohol (at 12.5%) Berrò is a great wine to 90 Pinot Noir (Marlborough); $44. Still youth- LLC. —J.C.

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Yealands 2009 Pinot Noir (Central Otago- upfront, with aromas of sweet pastry crust, baked plum, slightly dusty note. Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine 83 Marlborough); $17. Nothing against light- licorice and cracked pepper. The plum and blackberry Estates. —J.C. bodied Pinot Noir, but the delicacy of this wine verges fruit is balanced by some savory elements on the palate, on dilute. There’s a hint of hickory smoke, some modest which doesn’t show a lot of weight or length. A pretty cherry fruit and not a lot else. Imported by Winebow. wine to drink over the next couple of years. Imported SAUVIGNON BLANC —J.C. by RO Imports LLC. —J.C. Cloudy Bay 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- Sileni 2009 Cellar Selection Pinot Noir Otto’s Constant Dream 2008 Syrah 91 borough); $25. The Bay is back! This bold, 82 (Hawke’s Bay); $15. This wine’s modest straw- 87 (Hawke’s Bay); $18. This wine is light in color, fruit-driven offering is the best Cloudy Bay Savvy in at berry and sous-bois notes are pretty unremarkable. It’s but still packs a mouthful of flavor. It’s peppery and least a few vintages, with subtle leafy shadings layered light in body and short of finish. Imported by Indigo meaty upfront, filled out on the midpalate by tart fruit over tropical fruit and adding complexity to the long, Wine Group. —J.C. that verges on cranberry in flavor. Pretty rather than fresh finish. Drink now. Imported by Moët Hennessy potent; drink now-2014. Imported by Fruit of the USA. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. The Crossings 2009 Pinot Noir (Awatere Vines, Inc. —J.C. 80 Valley); $19. A disappointing effort, showing a Nautilus 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- weedy, hay-like profile and fruit that is drying out on Unison Vineyard 2008 Syrah (Hawke’s Bay); 91 ough); $17. For full review see page 9. Edi- the finish. Barely acceptable. Imported by W.J. Deutsch 87 $NA. On the toasty, oaky side of New Zealand’s tors’ Choice. & Sons. —J.C. Syrah spectrum, with plenty of cedary notes layered over plum and cherry fruit. Despite the oak treatment, it still Brancott 2010 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc retains a sense of freshness, and the fruit really comes 90 (Marlborough); $20. Brancott may be big, but SYRAH through on the finish. Try in 2013. —J.C. under the direction of Patrick Materman, the winemak- ing continues to be solid. The 2010 Reserve Sauvignon Man O’ War 2008 Dreadnought Syrah Blanc displays slightly herbal-grassy aromas, but also (Waiheke Island); $35. 93 Representing a new OTHER RED WINES hints of white nectarine and grapefruit. This medium- level of quality for Waiheke Syrah, this wine boasts cap- bodied wine comes across as fully dry and tightly tivating aromas of peppered meat, violets and cassis. Craggy Range 2009 Te Kahu Gimblett focused on the finish. Imported by Pernod Ricard. Edi- It’s full bodied without being heavy, and the flavors 90 Gravels Vineyard (Hawke’s Bay); $22. For a tors’ Choice. —J.C. seamlessly blend fruity with savory for a thrilling ride. wine that’s akin to a Pomerol in varietal composition, Finishes long, with firm tannins and a hint of espresso. with 80% Merlot and most of the rest , Eradus 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Awatere Drink now–2018. Imported by Gotham Wine Group. this is surprisingly muscular in style, with dusty tannins Valley); $20. Although this brand has been Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 90 framing dark fruit and hints of vanilla, mocha and cinna- going for under a decade, it has become a perennial mon. Drink 2013–2018. Imported by Kobrand. —J.C. favorite, showing great harmony and balance in its com- Craggy Range 2007 Le Sol Gimblett Grav- bination of sweet pea and citrus aromas and flavors. els Syrah (Hawke’s Bay); $90. For full 91 Villa Maria 2009 Cellar Selection Merlot- Drink it over the next year. Imported by American review see page 9. 90 Cabernet Sauvignon- (Hawke’s Estates Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Bay); $20. Good value in a full-bodied, richly textured Te Awa 2007 Syrah (Hawke’s Bay); $30. Te Hawke’s Bay red, with plummy fruit framed by oaky Mills Reef 2010 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Awa’s 2007 Syrah is a ripe, chunky example, with 89 notes of vanilla, toasted coconut and baking spices. (Hawke’s Bay); $15. Mills Reef’s Reserve chocolate and plum notes leading the way, followed at 90 Long, warm and velvety on the finish. Drink now–2019. Sauvignon Blanc stays true to the Hawke’s Bay style, some distance by hints of baking spices. It’s firm and Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Editors’ with ripe fruit notes that recall nectarine and passion slightly dusty on the finish, yet mouthwatering at the Choice. same time. Imported by RO Imports LLC. —J.C. —J.C. fruit, medium body and a zesty finish reminiscent of fresh citrus. Drink it over the next year. Imported by Vidal 2008 Gimblett Gravels Syrah Mills Reef 2009 Gimblett Gravels Reserve San Francisco Wine Exchange. Best Buy. —J.C. Merlot-Malbec (Hawke’s Bay); $20. (Hawke’s Bay); $NA. Vidal’s Syrah is a dark, 89 At 89 Mount Nelson 2010 Sauvignon Blanc inky wine, with vanilla and toast framing dark fruit. nearly 80% Merlot and the remainder Malbec, this is a (Marlborough); $19. Medium- to full-bodied blackberry and blueberry fla- medium-bodied red possessed of bright, vibrant cassis 90 For full review see page vors mesh easily with hints of olive and espresso, while fruit with chocolate and herb overtones. It finishes firm 10. Editors’ Choice. the finish features traces of dusty tannins. —J.C. without being hard or tough, so it may be consumed now and over the next 5–7 years. Imported by San Nobilo 2010 Icon Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- Paritua 2007 Syrah (Hawke’s Bay); $30. Francisco Wine Exchange. —J.C. 90 borough); $22. Nobilo’s top-of-the-line Sauvi- 88 Reminiscent of a good Crozes-Hermitage, Par- gnon Blanc starts off with the fresh, pungent scent of itua’s ’07 Syrah displays bold aromas of smoke, espresso, Oyster Bay 2009 Merlot (Hawke’s Bay); crushed tomato leaf, then delivers ample melon and fig cracked pepper and blackberries. The fruit comes 88 $15. Oyster Bay’s Merlot is a classy drop at a flavors that push the leafy characters into the back- through bouncy and buoyant on the palate and juicy on reasonable price, displaying scents of mocha, dried ground. It nicely balances weight and freshness, ending the finish, making it easy to drink now and over the next herbs and black cherries and featuring an expansive, on a clean, bright note. Imported by Constellation few years. Imported by Oceania Wine Group. —J.C. soft mouthfeel. Flavors of coffee, chocolate and crisp Brands, Inc. —J.C. berries persist on the smooth finish. Drink now. Trinity Hill 2008 Gimblett Gravels Syrah Imported by Oyster Bay Wines. —J.C. Villa Maria 2010 Wairau Valley Reserve 88 (Hawke’s Bay); $30. This plump, supple Syrah 90 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); $30. Villa makes for easy drinking. Dark fruit flavors are domi- Villa Maria 2009 Private Bin Merlot-Caber- Maria’s Wairau Reserve showcases the ripe tropical fruit nant, persisting a good long time on the slightly dusty 87 net Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc-Malbec associated with the “bony” soils of the Wairau Valley, finish. Drink now–2015. Imported by Via Pacifica (Hawke’s Bay); $15. A crisp, fruit-forward red to pair alongside hints of pink grapefruit, currants and just a Imports. —J.C. with a variety of dishes, Villa Maria’s 2009 Private Bin is touch of leafy greens. It’s medium bodied and slightly a mouthwatering introduction to what looks to be a top- creamy in texture, further enhancing that impression Gunn Estate 2007 Silistria Syrah (Hawke’s notch Hawke’s Bay vintage. Cherry fruit and subtle bak- of ripeness, although it’s never heavy or fat. Imported 87 Bay); $30. This Syrah is really attractive ing spices combine easily on the palate, ending on a by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C.

WineMag.com | 45 BUYING I GUIDE

Martin’s Rake 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Twin Islands 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- Chardonnay displays some vegetal notes of canned corn 89 (Marlborough); $22. Nicely done from the 87 borough); $11. For full review see page 14. and a slightly oily texture on the finish. Imported by start, beginning with hints of stuck flint and going Best Buy. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —J.C. through some honeyed tree fruit and citrus flavors. It’s a touch creamy on the midpalate, imparting some extra Dashwood 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- richness, before fading a little abruptly on the finish. 86 borough); $14. Essentially a second label for RIESLING Imported by Winery Exchange. —J.C. Vavasour, the 2010 Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc displays restrained gooseberry aromas that turn tropical and cit- Felton Road 2010 Bannockburn Riesling Villa Maria 2010 Private Bin Sauvignon rusy on the palate. Turns a bit chalky or metallic on the 90 (Central Otago); $32. Perenially one of Cen- finish, but it’s still a solid wine, and some may like the Blanc (Marlborough); $15. Villa’s entry-level tral Otago’s finest , Felton Road’s 2010 is a 89 edge that sharp note provides. Imported by Pasternak Sauvignon Blanc is a reliable performer year after year, lithe wine, light to medium in body, with sweet apple Wine Imports. —J.C. and the 2010 displays a robust blend of leafy-grassy and pear notes balanced by crisp lemon and lime. It’s sweet, without being a true dessert-style Riesling, prob- notes with bold citrus flavors. Very refreshing. Oyster Bay 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- ably best served on its own, with spicy Asian dishes or Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C. borough); $15. This successful brand is a huge 86 with mild cheeses. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. seller in Australia, and the company reports that —J.C. Villa Maria 2010 Cellar Selection Sauvi- 200,000 cases of this vintage are available in the U.S. It’s 89 gnon Blanc (Marlborough); $20. VM’s 2010 a little less overt than many Marlborough Sauvignons, Villa Maria 2010 Cellar Selection Dry Ries- Cellar Selection SB is slightly weightier than its Private with restrained celery leaf and citrus aromas and flavors ling (Marlborough); $20. At 7.5 g/L of resid- Bin counterpart, but not necessarily better. Tomato leaf that finish with just a hint of sweetness. Drink now. 89 ual sugar, this is more off-dry than dry, but the acidity is notes cruise alongside bold pineapple and citrus, end- Imported by Oyster Bay Wines. —J.C. ing in a mouthwatering crescendo of flavor. Imported high enough to provide a sense of crispness. In this by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C. Nobilo 2010 Regional Collection Sauvi- plump, medium-bodied Riesling, peach and citrus 85 gnon Blanc (Marlborough); $14. Typical strike a fine balance, ending with a dollop of lime sher- Brancott 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- passion fruit and gooseberry aromas turn tropical and bet. Drink now–2018. Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine 88 ough); $13. Pungent and nettle-like upfront, almost rich on the palate. This is weightier than many Estates. —J.C. but those leafy elements are balanced by bright grape- Sauvignons, lushly ripe and maybe even a touch Villa Maria 2010 Private Bin Dry Riesling fruity flavors on the palate. It’s medium in body and sweet—serve it well chilled for best effect. Imported by (Marlborough); $15. Lean, dry and crisply fresh, clean and appealing on the finish. Hard to do Constellation Brands, Inc. —J.C. 87 focused, with a cutting edge of lime juice and green better at the price. Imported by Pernod Ricard. Best apple bolstered by hints of crushed stone. Refreshing Buy. —J.C. CHARDONNAY and clean on the finish. Imported by Ste. Michelle Drylands 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Oyster Bay 2009 Chardonnay (Marlbor- ough); $16. Like many Marlborough Sauvi- 88 ough); $15. Oyster Bay is better known for its gnon Blancs, this one starts off leafy and pungent, then 89 Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, but this Chardonnay is GEWÜRZTRAMINER develops greater depth of white nectarine and grape- one its top drops. It’s medium in body, with hints of but- fruit on the palate. It’s plump, medium-bodied and tered nuts and custardy richness in place of primary fruit, Lawson’s Dry Hills 2009 Gewürztraminer slightly creamy in texture, making it an attractively ver- yet ending with a clean, citrusy finish. Drink now. 90 (Marlborough); $19. Lawson’s Gewürz- satile option. Imported by Constellation Brands, Inc. Imported by Oyster Bay Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. traminer is always near the top of its class, and the 2009 —J.C. offers expressive scents of lychee and ginger married to Marisco Vineyards 2009 The King’s Bas- a powerful, round, nearly dry palate. Finishes long and Wairau River 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- 87 tard Wairau Chardonnay (Marlborough); spicy. Drink it over the next couple of years for its exu- borough); $16. A medium-bodied, creamy- $18. 88 Winemaker Brent Marris (formerly of Wither berance. Imported by The Country Vintner. Editors’ textured rendering of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, Hills) has turned out a medium-bodied, creamy-tex- Choice. —J.C. with notes of tropical fruit and clementines balanced by tured Chardonnay that combines peachy fruit and hints of struck flint and red bell pepper. Finishes soft finely tuned nuttiness. Drink it over the next 6-12 Dry River 2009 Lovat Vineyard Gewürz- months. Imported by Pelican Brands, LLC. —J.C. and easy. Drink now. Imported by Terlato Wines Inter- 88 traminer (Martinborough); $45. Dry River’s national. —J.C. 2009 Gewürztraminer is a lush, off-dry rendering of the Nelson Bay 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay variety, with notes of superripe melon and pear Crossroads 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- (Nelson); $14. This is a simple but balanced 86 accented by hints of peppery-gingery spice. Approach- example of unoaked Chardonnay, featuring straightfor- 87 borough); $15. This Marlborough Sauvignon able now. Imported by RO Imports LLC. —J.C. from a Hawke’s Bay winery is a little on the herbal ward apple and citrus flavors. It’s light to medium in body, marked by a hint of struck flint on the nose and a side—even close to vegetal, although it doesn’t quite burst of lime-like acidity on the finish. Imported by go that far. A trace of sweetness lingers to balance out Testa Wines Of The World. —J.C. CHILEAN REDS the tobacco- and tomato-leaf elements. Imported by South Pacific Wines. —J.C. Kim Crawford 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay CABERNETS & BLENDS (Marlborough); $17. The Kim Crawford Goldwater 2010 Wairau Valley Sauvignon 85 wines typically display plenty of fruit character, and this Casa Lapostolle 2009 Casa Cabernet Blanc (Marlborough); $18. 87 Sourced from example is no exception. Bright pineapple flavors are 90 Sauvignon (Rapel Valley); $13. Firm, toasty Marlborough’s main valley, this is a nicely made exam- fairly intense, turning crisp and lemony on the finish. aromas blend well with cherry and plum notes. The ple of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Grapefruit and Bold, if somewhat simple. Drink now. Imported by palate is healthy in feel, with good depth and balance. crushed tomato-leaf notes mingle easily, backed by ripe, Constellation Brands, Inc. —J.C. Tastes lightly herbal, but the heavy lifting is handled by vaguely tropical fruit. It’s medium in body, finishing black fruit and chocolate flavors. Peppery on the finish clean and refreshing. Imported by Pasternak Wine The Crossings 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay and very solid as a whole. Imported by Moët Hennessy Imports. —J.C. 82 (Awatere Valley); $15. This medium-bodied USA. Best Buy. —M.S.

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Concha y Toro 2009 Casillero del Diablo flavors of raspberry jam, prune and brown sugar. Turns vors. Finishes dry, with a tobacco note. Imported by 90 Reserva Privada Cabernet Sauvignon- heavier and more chunky and baked on the finish. Def- Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. Syrah (Maipo Valley); $14. For full review see page initely a ripe Cab. Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. 13. Best Buy. —M.S. Veramonte 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- 86 gnon (Colchagua Valley); $12. Tobacco, Château Los Boldos 2008 Grand Cru Caber- Cono Sur 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cen- licorice, green herb and molasses aromas lead to a juicy, 89 net Sauvignon-Merlot (Cachapoal Valley); 87 tral Valley); $10. For full review see page 14. tight palate with black fruit flavors, spice and herbal $48. Light mint and herbal aromas get it going, fol- Best Buy. notes. Solid and fairly long on the finish, with mild lowed by dry, complex scents of tobacco, licorice, leather blackberry and prune flavors. Imported by Huneeus and blackberry. This is 80% Cabernet and 20% Merlot, De Martino 2008 Legado Reserva Caber- Vintners. —M.S. and it’s a bit angular on the tongue but the flavors of cas- 87 net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $16. Dark sis, black cherry and plum are juicy and bold. Turns and dense up front, with leathery, beefy aromas that De Martino 2008 347 Vineyards Cabernet more oaky with airing, especially on the long, herbal fin- suggest weight and size. The palate is indeed round and 85 Sauvignon (Central Valley); $13. Leather ish. Imported by Evaton, Inc. —M.S. full, while the flavors are herbal and savory as you dig and earth aromas also bring olive, black pepper, licorice through blackberry and fig. Hefty, a little hot and a bit and moss. The palate shows medium depth, while the Chilcas 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon baked on the finish. Imported by Opici Wines. —M.S. flavors of plum and berry are herbal and regular. Short 89 (Maule Valley); $13. Spicy and a bit dry on but good on the finish, with a grapey, chunky aftertaste. the nose, with firm, attractive red berry aromas. The Echeverria 2008 Family Reserva Cabernet Imported by Opici Wines. —M.S. palate is lively and well balanced, with full plum, dark 87 Sauvignon (Curicó Valley); $17. Berry aro- berry and peppery flavors. Finishes solid, toasty and mas, herbal scents and leafiness dot the nose on this Santa Alicia 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- dry, with crispness and follow through. Imported by fresh, fairly standard Cabernet. The palate has a juicy, 85 gnon (Maipo Valley); $9. Meaty, herbal aro- Vici Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. fresh feel and then medium-weight flavors of berry and mas are savory and suggest baked black fruits. The plum mixed with mocha. Finishes slightly sweet and palate is short in the middle and scratchy, but lively as Viña Requingua 2009 Toro de Piedra medicinal. Imported by Ararat Import/Export Co. far as Cabernet goes. Herbal red plum, cassis and mint Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua 89 LLC. —M.S. flavors lead to a finish with good feel and flow. Valley); $14. For full review see page 13. Best Buy. Imported by Halby Marketing. Best Buy. —M.S. Santa Ema 2008 60/40 Reserve Barrel Oveja Negra 2009 Reserva Cabernet Viña Requingua 2010 Puerto Viejo Select Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Maipo Sauvignon-Syrah (Maule Valley); $14. Rich 87 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó Val- 88 Valley); $12. Peppery, slightly medicinal aromas fold 85 and soupy smelling at first, then as it airs, cherry, ley); $10. A big and heavy style of Cabernet, with in raspberry and floral scents. The palate is tight and leather and spice notes emerge. The palate is lush, deep earth, leather, oak, raisin and blackberry aromas. The crisp, with juicy acidity framing herbal plum and rasp- and balanced, with blackberry and sweet plum flavors, palate is a touch flat and reduced, but the flavors are berry flavors. Turns toasty and then hollow on what finishing on a chocolate note. Imported by Vici Wine sweet and suggest black currant, black cherry, spice and amounts to a short finish. Imported by T.G.I.C. and Spirits. —M.S. herbs. No shortage of ripeness here; if anything, it’s a Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. bit overripe. Imported by Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Undurraga 2008 T.H. Alto Maipo Cabernet Buy. —M.S. Undurraga 2009 Aliwen Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $29. Opens with 88 Sauvignon-Carmenère (Rapel Valley); $12. hard, tight, rubbery aromas of black cherry and black- 87 Tamaya 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Limarí Opens with cherry and spiced aromas. The palate is berry. The palate is deep and tannic, with a vise-like Valley); $9. Gritty, narrow aromas of cherry plump and chewy, with full tannins and earthy, herbal 84 grip and dark, herbal flavors of cassis, plum and berry. and red plum smell rubbery, like latex. The palate flavors of roast plum and olive. Finishes big and chunky, The finish, not surprisingly, maintains the wine’s dark, smacks down with acidic bite along with sweet red fruit rubbery, pushy character. Imported by Vision Wine & with solid Cabernet (60%) and Carmenère (40%) char- flavors, toast and heat. Feels lean and rough; tastes Spirits. —M.S. acter. Good for what amounts to a basic red wine. good enough. Imported by Ecovalley Quality Wine Imported by Vision Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. Group and National Refrescos Import Company, LLC. Viu Manent 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- Imported by Tamaya. —M.S. Ventisquero 2008 Grey [Glacier] Single 88 gnon (Colchagua Valley); $14. Spicy, dry, fruity and presentable on the bouquet. The palate is a 87 Block Trinidad Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- MontGras 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- bit creamy and soft at first, and then the tannins come gnon (Maipo Valley); $20. Rooty and leafy on the 83 gnon (Colchagua Valley); $12. Heat, spice, out later. Tastes of sweet blackberry, cassis and light nose, with red berry aromas peeking through some oregano and earthy black fruit aromas are granular and herbal notes with mild char and oak thrown in. A ripe, obvious oak. The palate offers cherry and raspberry fla- raisiny. The palate is thick like berry syrup, with creamy, stylish Cabernet showing overall quality. Imported by vors along with sweetness, and things are backed by sweet, gummy flavors that suggest blackberry candy Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S. vanilla and chocolate. Good, tasty and oaky, with proper and molasses. Roasted and herbal; strange on the finish. layering. Imported by Austral Wines. —M.S. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.S. Arboleda 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 (Aconcagua Valley); $19. Foresty and dark Viña Bisquertt 2010 Petirrojo Cabernet Terra Andina 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon on the bouquet, with aromas of licorice, prune, forest 87 Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley); $7. Herbal 83 (Central Valley); $9. Funky and sweet and foxiness. The palate is full and tannic, while flavors plum and olive aromas are robust and far from generic. smelling, with odd fruit aromas and unfamiliar spice run sweet, creamy and slightly syrupy, with chocolate The palate is lush and layered, with baked berry, pep- notes. The palate has a snappy, clacky feel and flavors of and spiced fig notes. Finishes rich and rough, with dry per, spice and tobacco flavors. Lifted and sturdy on the red fruits, citrus, herbs, tomato and oregano. Sharp on herbs and true Chilean Cab flavors of olive and finish, with ripeness and power. A steal for the money. the finish, and overall it tastes like pizza. Imported by oregano. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. Terra Andina. —M.S. —M.S. La Playa 2008 Axel Cabernet Sauvignon Chilcas 2008 Single Vineyard Cabernet 86 (Colchagua Valley); $20. Brambly and baked CARMENÈRE 87 Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley); $18. on the nose, with crusty black fruit aromas and vanilla Crushed mineral, herbs and solid berry and plum aro- accents. The palate has a clacky feel and comes up lean Arboleda 2009 Carmenère (Colchagua Val- mas lead to a tannic, wide, grabby palate with sweet in the middle, with herbal red berry and light, leafy fla- 90 ley); $19. Full, floral, herbal and exuberant,

WineMag.com | 47 BUYING I GUIDE with black fruit aromas and strong earthy, spicy notes. and drive due to zesty acids. Imported by Vin Divino. being weighty, while the flavors are briary and run The palate is full, intense and balanced, with toasty, Best Buy. —M.S. heavy with olive, green tobacco and green bean. Mild roasted flavors of blackberry, licorice and spiced fig. on the finish, with another wave of green olive. Saturated, lush and showing off the positives of Car- Chilcas 2009 Reserva Carmenère (Maule Imported by Morande USA. —M.S. menère. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. 87 Valley); $13. Smells like Italian herbs, dry red —M.S. fruits and tomato sauce, or in other words, a nice pizza. Santa Alicia 2010 Reserva Carmenère The palate is a bit tight and astringent for the variety, 83 (Maipo Valley); $9. Pointed and herbal on the Casa Lapostolle 2009 Casa Carmenère with cherry, blackberry and licorice flavors. Not super nose, with olive and a hardness that suggests paint or 90 (Rapel Valley); $13. If this isn’t the best value- spicy or complex, but still tasty and varietally correct. chemical. The palate is tight, grating and tastes of jum- priced Carmenère being made in Chile, then what is? Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. bled fruit and olive. Herbal and minty on the finish. It’s big, broad and chubby on the nose, with nearly per- Imported by Halby Marketing. —M.S. fect black fruit, herb, spice and tobacco aromas. The François Lurton 2009 Hacienda Araucano palate is full and mildly tannic, with layered, generous 87 Reserva Carmenère (Colchagua Valley); Terra Andina 2009 Carmenère (Central flavors of blackberry, spice and chocolate. Toasty and $11. For full review see page 14. Best Buy. 82 Valley); $9. Strange spice and ground cinna- long on the finish. Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. mon aromas shadow the fruit, which may be a good Best Buy. —M.S. Anakena 2010 Carmenère (Rapel Valley); thing because the palate is flat and murky, with jammy, 86 $9. A warm, bold nose with leather, olive and sweet flavors and not much follow up on the backside. Misiones de Rengo 2010 Carmenère (Cen- herbs is a bit forced and heavy. In the mouth, this is big Finishes creamy but bitter tasting. Imported by Terra 89 tral Valley); $10. Aromas of pepper, fine herbs and round, with herbal, mildly green flavors of plum Andina. —M.S. and ripe berries form a classic Carmenère nose. This is mixed with olive and mint. Soft and creamy on the fin- a juicy, fresh style of the variety with nice feel and ish. Imported by Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. smoothness, pure berry and plum flavors, and a clean, MERLOT lightly herbal finish. Delivers a true taste of the grape Chilensis 2009 Reserva Carmenère (Maule with no green or funk. Imported by Total Beverage 86 Valley); $12. Spicy on the nose, with dry, Casa Lapostolle 2008 Cuvée Alexandre Solution. Best Buy. —M.S. woody aromas and berry notes. The wine has a full, soft 91 Apalta Vineyard Merlot (Colchagua Val- body and deep, basic flavors of black plum, baked berry ley); $24. Black and crusty on the nose, with char, Viña La Rosa 2009 Cornellana Barrel and spice. Things darken on the finish, leaving choco- smoke, wild blackberry and chocolaty aromas. The 89 Reserve Carmenère (Cachapoal Valley); late and grapey thickness. Imported by Vici Wine and palate is full and offers the right tannic grip, while $18. Dark, deep and layered on the bouquet, with Spirits. —M.S. blackberry, bitter chocolate and peppery flavors finish spice, black fruit aromas and an acceptable level of with gravitas. A full-bodied and lusty varietal wine, herbs that don’t suggest green in any way. Lush and Cono Sur 2009 Carmenère (Colchagua Val- probably the best of its type from Chile. Imported by cushioned in the mouth, with chewy flavors of herbal 86 ley); $10. Muscular and dark for a $10 red, Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. blackberry, tobacco and savory broth. Finishes big and with aromas of herbs, olive and black fruits. The feel is chocolaty, with smoke and spice. Imported by Viña La tight and linear but clean, with grapey, lightly herbal Viña Bisquertt 2010 La Joya Reserve Mer- Rosa USA. —M.S. flavors of blackberry and dark plum. Spice and licorice 90 lot (Colchagua Valley); $11. For full review notes grace the juicy finish. Solid wine for the price. see page 13. Best Buy. Anakena 2009 Indo Carmenère (Cachapoal Imported by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. 88 Valley); $11. Alive and healthy, with floral, red Santa Alicia 2010 Reserva Merlot (Maipo berry and spice aromas. It has a structured feel and Tamaya 2009 Winemaker’s Selection Sin- 88 Valley); $9. Dry, spicy and floral smelling, with more than solid raspberry, plum, vanilla and spiced fla- 85 gle Vineyard Carmenère (Limarí Valley); modest herbal accents. The palate is saturated and vors. Turns darker and more chocolaty on the finish. $18. A little floral but a lot more green and funky on fairly rich, with good texture and broad, satisfying fla- Offers good fruit, oak and lots of herbs and spice. the nose. The mouthfeel is reedy, while the flavors are vors of berry and plum. Sturdy, consistent and fresh, Imported by Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. sweet, herbal and lightly green, sort of like mint and with easy drinkability. Imported by Halby Marketing. tobacco. Strident in drive but not fully there in terms of Best Buy. —M.S. De Martino 2009 347 Vineyards Reserva flavor. Imported by Ecovalley Quality Wine Group and 88 Carmenère (Central Valley); $13. Dry, pep- National Refrescos Import Company, LLC. Imported Viña Bisquertt 2008 Ecos de Rulo Merlot pery and earthy on the nose, then juicy and fresh in the by Tamaya. —M.S. 88 (Colchagua Valley); $18. Dark fruit aromas mouth, with herbal cherry, chocolate, olive and leathery lead a rustic, earthy, smoky bouquet towards a crisp, flavors. Dark, smoky, toasty and varietally correct on Viña Requingua 2010 Puerto Viejo healthy palate with ample oak that creates a buttery the finish. A nice and true taste of Carmenère at a good 85 Reserve Carmenère (Curicó Valley); $10. taste to accent dry berry flavors, a light herbal character price. Imported by Opici Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. Dry, woody, herbal aromas wrap around creamy red and pepper. Fresh, solid and well oaked. Imported by fruit scents. The palate is juicy and kind of narrow, with Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. Haras 2009 Carmenère (Maipo Valley); generic cherry and plum flavors blending with creamy 88 $12. A very good value Carmenère with oak oak notes. Tastes and feels a touch lactic. Imported by Lomas del Valle 2010 Unfiltered Merlot and charred aromas in front of berry, herbs and olive. Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. 87 (Casablanca Valley); $13. Berry and leather The body is full and the wine has a nice feel; flavors of aromas show a spot of green herb and floral hints. The blackberry bring herbs, pepper and black olive accents. Viu Manent 2010 Estate Collection Car- palate is lively and shows slightly prickly acidity along Toasty and a bit hot on the finsh, but bold and done 85 menère (Colchagua Valley); $9. Big and hefty with snappy flavors of red berry, herbs, oregano and well. Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Best to start with, offering roasted berry, leather and black fresh tomato. More lively and elegant in style than big Buy. —M.S. olive aromas as well as a whiff of wet dog. The palate is and bulky. Imported by GOS Wines and BMC Imports. full and soft, with sweet fruit, candied oak and minty, —M.S. Casa Silva 2009 Reserva Carmenère herbal flavors. Finishes spicy and a bit funky. Imported 87 (Colchagua Valley); $12. A fresh Carmenère by Baystate Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. Quasar 2007 Reserva Merlot (Curicó Val- made in a red, floral style. The nose is flowery and 87 ley); $8. Crusty and peppery aromas blend with herbal, with cherry and red plum aromas. Clacky and Morandé 2009 Reserva Carmenère (Maipo wild berry and herbal scents to create a very nice open- bright across the palate, with herbal plum, wild berry, 84 Valley); $11. Rough, green and olive-domi- ing. The palate is tight and healthy, with black currant, olive and chocolaty flavors. Finishes with brightness nated on the nose. The palate is plump to the point of dark cherry and plum flavors. Despite controlled herbal

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 notes, this is very good Merlot for the money. Imported very nice blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, by Ace Distributing. Best Buy. —M.S. SYRAH Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Imported by Global Vine- yard Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. Viu Manent 2010 Estate Collection Merlot Concha y Toro 2007 Gravas del Maipo 86 (Colchagua Valley); $9. Forceful, meaty and a 92 Syrah (Buin); $150. This high-priced Syrah is Odfjell 2006 Orzada Cabernet Franc little herbal on the nose, but still pretty solid for $9 stately. The nose is ripe, minty and loaded with cassis 88 (Maule Valley); $20. A dark, earthy wine that and blackberry fruit. The palate displays extraction han- Merlot. The palate is full and sizable, with plum, berry shows rooty, sweet, roasted berry aromas. The palate is dled well, while accents of mint, spice, nutmeg and syrupy but stout, with ripe, oak-influenced flavors of and herbal flavors creating Chilean typicity. Falls off on licorice work great with core black fruit flavors. Juicy, caramel, chocolate, raisin and stewed plum. Finishes the finish, turning more herbal, but overall it’s a good deep and focused. Contains 12% Cabernet Sauvignon; rich, with cocoa; mature and a little bit candied for Cab Best value wine. Imported by Baystate Wine & Spirits. 150 cases made. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.S. Franc. Imported by Select Fine Wine. —M.S. Buy. —M.S. Polkura 2007 Block G+I Syrah (Colchagua Maquis 2007 Lien (Colchagua Valley); $20. Viña Bisquertt 2010 Petirrojo Merlot 90 Valley); $40. A small-production, artisan Syrah 87 Red fruit aromas are common and clean, with 85 (Colchagua Valley); $8. Shows an aggressive, with a smoky, lush nose that unveils raisin and prune as ample oak and spice on the side. The palate is flush, roasted set of aromas that feature leather, meat, olive it unfolds. The palate is saturated and jammy, with a juicy and quite tannic, with berry, cola, mocha and and char. The palate is full and thick, with chewy, flat layered, tannic mouthfeel and big berry, herb and oak toasty oak flavors along with a tough, grippy feel. A five- tannins and then herbal flavors that mute the wine’s flavors. Finishes with size, pepper and dark spice fla- grape blend that’s forceful, fully oaked and tannic. vors. 250 cases made. Imported by Wine Markets Inter- black fruit content. A good midlevel wine that delivers Imported by Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. national, Inc. —M.S. within its price range. Imported by Prestige Wine Morandé 2006 House of Morandé (Maipo Group. Best Buy. —M.S. Odfjell 2007 Orzada Syrah (Maule Valley); Valley); $50. Opens murky and spicy, with $20. 87 89 A very dark, minty, oaky style of Syrah that dampness. Airing helps it along, revealing spicy flavors PINOT NOIR breathes shoe polish and mocha in front of sweet and and a lot of raw oak. It’s peppery, dry and spicy, with ripe blackberry and plum aromas. A ripped and power- nutmeg and cinnamon to go with earthy plum and rasp- ful wine with core acidity and big, creamy flavors of Chilensis 2009 Reserva Pinot Noir (Maule berry. At peak maturity or beyond. Imported by mocha, cocoa, vanilla and black plum. Pours on the oak Morande USA. —M.S. 86 Valley); $12. Prickly at first, then more earthy and heat on the finish. Imported by Select Fine Wine. and leathery as the nose shifts to black cherry. Medium —M.S. O. Fournier 2009 Urban Maule Red Blend to almost full in body, with cherry, lightly baked plum (Maule Valley); $13. Standard red and black Loma Larga 2006 BK-BL Syrah (Casablanca 87 and a wave of toasty flavors. Chocolaty and oaky on the fruit aromas mix with alfalfa and leather on the nose. Valley); $29. Opens with pickled aromas of red finish, and showing varietal character and integrity. 84 The palate is full but a little syrupy and sticky, with cabbage. The mouthfeel is good and proper, however Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. sweet berry, raisin and oaky flavors. Good for a basic, the flavors fall back to tomato, oregano, basil and even sweet blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Merlot sauerkraut. Leathery on the finish, with lasting herbal La Playa 2009 Block Selection Reserve and Carignan. Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. flavors. 260 cases produced. Imported by GOS Wines Pinot Noir (Central Valley); $11. Opens —M.S. 85 and BMC Imports. —M.S. slightly muddled and murky, but then it spreads out toward earthy and mossy. The palate has a lean, dry Tamaya 2009 Reserva Malbec-Cabernet feel along with simple berry and plum flavors. Finishes OTHER RED WINES 87 Sauvignon-Syrah (Limarí Valley); $17. with a spicy aftertaste and it improves with time in the Reduced on the nose, with blueberry, boysenberry and syrupy aromas that reflect the 55% Malbec in this Mal- glass. Imported by Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. Anakena 2008 Ona (Rapel Valley); $15. Big and earthy, with char, savory spice and black bec-CS-Syrah blend. The palate is rich but flat, with 91 dark flavors of black fruits, blueberrry and black Cameron Hughes 2009 Lot 227 Pinot Noir fruit aromas. The palate is full and bold, with ripe tan- licorice. Chunky and a little off the grid, but still good (Casablanca Valley); $15. Varietally sound on nins and delicious flavors of herbs, baked berries, inte- 84 for a bulky wine. Imported by Ecovalley Quality Wine the nose but also scratchy and stemmy smelling, with a grated spice and leather. Smooth, long and muscular; made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Syrah. Group and National Refrescos Import Company, LLC. pickled element. The palate is tight and tart, with lean Imported by Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. —M.S. plum and red cherry flavors that coax out a gritty, cit- rusy, peppery finish. Imported by Cameron Hughes MontGras 2009 Quatro (Colchagua Val- Viña La Rosa 2008 Cuvée Don Reca Lim- Wine. —M.S. 90 ley); $12. For full review see page 13. Best 87 ited Release (Cachapoal Valley); $24. Buy. Earth, olive, blackberry and licorice are the key aromas Los Molles 2009 Reserva Especial Pinot on this Merlot-led blend that includes Cab Sauvignon, 84 Noir (Limarí Valley); $21. Dry, spicy and pep- Santa Alicia 2007 Anke Blend 3 (Maipo Syrah and Carmenère. The palate is a bit heavy and pery on the nose, but not very fruity. The palate is juicy 89 Valley); $18. Opens with a light, herbal bou- heady, and the tannins bite. But the roasted blackberry and tight, with briar, stem, citrus and herbal cherry and quet that features spice and elegant red fruit aromas. and herbal flavors work well, and you can’t complain plum flavors. Shows heat on a short finish, which is The palate keeps the mode going; it’s crisp and fresh, about the wine’s density. Imported by Viña La Rosa USA. —M.S. herbal and drying. Imported by The Artisan Collection. with cherry, raspberry and spice flavors. Finishes firm and dry, with tobacco. A nice blend of Carmenère, —M.S. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc. Imported by Château Los Boldos 2008 Amalia Select Brands International, Inc. —M.S. (Cachapoal Valley); $50. An odd mix of Gra- Terra Andina 2009 Reserva Pinot Noir 85 ham cracker, blueberry jam and floral aromas yield a 82 (Central Valley); $13. Murky and pickled on Calcu 2008 Red Wine (Colchagua Valley); kitchen cleanser whole. With time things get better, the nose, with dull fruit aromas. The palate is sheer and 88 $12. Dark and minerally, with black fruits, char yielding a big, sticky palate of blueberry, blackberry and grating in feel, with snappy acidity, lean fruit and herbal and power on the nose. The palate is fresh and grippy, syrupy flavors. A grapey big boy with a cloying finish. flavors of tart raspberry. Scratchy and drying on the fin- with integrated cassis, berry and herb flavors. Dry and Good but not balanced quite right. Imported by Eva- ish. Imported by Terra Andina. —M.S. lightly herbal on the finish, which is long and solid. A ton, Inc. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 49 BUYING I GUIDE

Loma Larga 2007 Cabernet Franc Undurraga 2010 Aliwen Reserva Chardon- stemmy. Imported by Ecovalley Quality Wine Group 82 (Casablanca Valley); $24. A murky wine with 86 nay (Curicó and Maipo Valleys); $12. and National Refrescos Import Company, LLC. —M.S. tree bark, rooty fruit aromas and a sharp, high-acid palate Melon and green apple aromas are solid and clean. The that’s tannic. Tastes herbal, tart and a bit vegetal, with an melony palate offers a plump feel and bright, sweet fla- Apaltagua 2010 Reserva Unoaked herbal, scratchy finish that strongly hints at green. vors of mango, pineapple and apple. This wine delivers 82 Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); $11. Imported by GOS Wines and BMC Imports. —M.S. a lot of fruit and liveliness on a regular frame. Imported Bland and oily on the nose, with a mushy palate that’s by Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. pickled and isn’t bringing much to the table. The wine Loma Larga 2006 Quinteto (Casablanca is lemony and green, with a tangle of briney citrus fla- 80 Valley); $16. Overloaded with tomato, green Los Molles 2009 Reserva Chardonnay vors and low acidity. Proves that no oak does not mean bean and bell pepper on the nose. Not much changes in 85 (Limarí Valley); $14. A bit cheesy on the nose, no faults. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers. — the mouth; it’s herbal and tomatoey, with oregano and with oaky resin and tropical fruit aromas. The palate is M.S. chili pepper flavors. A green, herbal wine made from plump to the point of soft, with fleshy melon flavors four grapes, led by Merlot. Imported by GOS Wines leading to a citrusy, soft finish. Candied and easy but Lomas del Valle 2009 Chardonnay and BMC Imports. —M.S. good. Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S. 82 (Casablanca Valley); $13. Chunky, sweet, clammy aromas lead to a soft, flabby palate with melony Viña Bisquertt 2010 Petirrojo Chardonnay flavors in front of a mealy finish. Lacks spine and tastes CHILEAN WHITES 85 (Colchagua Valley); $8. Despite a whiff of hay overly sweet. Imported by GOS Wines and BMC and corn, the nose here is solid and settles on pear and Imports. —M.S. CHARDONNAY apple. The palate is round, firm and chunky, with pear and banana flavors. Finishes a little creamy, with sweet Undurraga 2009 T.H. West Limarí Llai Llai 2009 Chardonnay (Bío Bío Valley); banana notes and citrusy crispness. Imported by Pres- 82 Chardonnay (Limarí Valley); $20. Banana $13. 89 Light and properly toasted on the nose, tige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. and lacquer aromas blend with pickled white fruit with pineapple, vanilla and yeasty bread notes. Quite scents and brine. It’s by no means a fresh and inviting fresh and bright across the tongue, with melon, apple Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Chardonnay; instead, it’s a bit mustardy and briney, and and pear flavors that are sweet and ripe but not sugary. 84 2010 Los Vascos Chardonnay (Colchagua not terribly fresh in feel. Is that sauerkraut on the fin- Honest and well done for the price. Imported by W.J. Valley); $14. Basic melon and peach aromas become ish? Imported by Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. Deutsch & Sons. Best Buy. —M.S. more pungent and citrusy with airing. The palate has MontGras 2010 Reserva Chardonnay weight and zest but lacks complexity, while the flavors Arboleda 2009 Chardonnay (Casablanca (Colchagua Valley); $12. Another subpar are citrusy and green, much like Sauvignon Blanc, 80 Valley); $17. Toasty and heavy on the nose, Chardonnay from this winery. It smells like rubber 87 which is common for this wine based on past perform- with popcorn and baked fruit aromas leading the bands and bacon, while the palate is heavy and tastes of ance. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. charge. The palate has moderate richness and lots of hickory, sweet apple and sugar. Recent vintages of this oak, with resiny white fruit flavors of baked apple and wine have been weak. Imported by Palm Bay Interna- Santa Rita 2010 120 Chardonnay (Central peach. Vanilla and spice work the finish. Imported by tional. —M.S. Valley); $8. Melon, pear and apple aromas are Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. 84 standard and sweet. The palate is soft, maybe a bit Los Molles 2009 Reserva Especial mushy, with banana, pear and tropical fruit flavors. Fin- SAUVIGNON BLANC ishes easy and flat, with lasting tropical sweetness. Chardonnay (Limarí Valley); $20. Fleshy, 87 Imported by Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S. melony aromas cuddle some fresh oak. The palate has Maycas del Limari 2010 Reserva Especial decent acidity so there’s freshness along with weight, Sauvignon Blanc (Limarí Valley); $22. For Viu Manent 2010 Reserva Chardonnay 91 resiny oak flavors, lemon and green apple. Zesty and full review see page 9. (Casablanca Valley); $14. citrusy on the finish, with a dash of vanilla. Imported by 84 Chunky, oily, sweet The Artisan Collection. —M.S. aromas of pineapple and vanilla lead to a soft palate Concha y Toro 2010 Terrunyo Vineyard with mildly green, pickled flavors and creamy melon. 90 Selection Block 28 Sauvignon Blanc Cameron Hughes 2008 Lot 226 Chardon- The finish is quiet and quick other than for a final wave (Casablanca Valley); $25. For full review see page 10. 86 nay (Casablanca Valley); $15. Browning in of sweet cream. Imported by Baystate Wine & Spirits. color and showing premature age, this big, oaky —M.S. Undurraga 2010 T.H. Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay is at peak maturity and won’t make it too 89 (Casablanca Valley); $20. Prickly and crisp far past 2011. In the meantime, there’s fleshy, baked Chilcas 2009 Reserva Chardonnay (Maule on the bouquet, with jalapeño snap, lime and other aromas and flavors of sweet pear, toast, buttery notes 83 Valley); $13. Simple pear and peach aromas frisky green notes. The palate is cut by acidity but is and resin. Imported by Cameron Hughes Wine. —M.S. set up a soft, somewhat flabby palate with sweet but nicely balanced by citrus, grapefruit and green-ish fla- already fading tropical fruit flavors. Not a lot of spine or vors. Turns greener on the finish before going pithy. Errazuriz 2010 Estate Chardonnay kick to this wine; it finishes a bit mealy and wan. Imported by Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 86 (Casablanca Valley); $12. Lemon, apple and Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. other standard aromas give it a familiar if unspectacular De Martino 2010 Made with Organically opening. The palate is full, mildly creamy and offers La Playa 2010 Estate Bottled Un-oaked 88 Grown Grapes Sauvignon Blanc (Maipo decent acidity in support of peach and nectarine fla- 83 Chardonnay (Colchagua Valley); $7. Lemon Valley); $16. Lime, fresh-cut grass, tangerine and other vors. Solid as a whole for $12 Chilean Chardonnay. and apple aromas are basic, while the palate is spongey clean, pure aromas are the greeting. The palate is whim- Imported by Vintus LLC. —M.S. and offers only mild acidity to boost slightly mealy cit- sical and offers good acidic cut; flavors of lime, green rus and persimmon flavors. Finishes flat as a board. apple and chili peppers are correct and turn mildly pithy Morandé 2009 Reserva Chardonnay Imported by Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. on the finish. Imported by Opici Wines. —M.S. 86 (Casablanca Valley); $11. Popcorn, baked apple and lacquer aromas are full and creamy. The Tamaya 2010 Chardonnay (Limarí Valley); La Playa 2010 Block Selection Reserve palate is more citrusy, with juicy acidity pushing orange 83 $9. Saline, apple and not much else create an 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Limarí Valley); $11. Crisp and lime flavors. Finishes with fleshiness and soft, cit- innocuous bouquet. The palate is short and lemony, aromas bring both tropical shadings and mild grassy rusy flavors. Good in a basic way. Imported by Morande with tangy acidity and stalky flavors of lemon and scents. The palate offers the right meshing of acidity USA. Best Buy. —M.S. pineapple. Burns a little on the finish, which tastes and pulp. Tastes right, with lime and passion fruit lead-

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 ing the charge. A dry, clean style of SB with only a National Refrescos Import Company, LLC. Best Buy. it’s identifiable as Riesling; flavors of pineapple, nec- touch of green. Imported by Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. tarine and citrus are sweet and easy. A tropical style of Best Buy. —M.S. white wine done fairly well for $10. Imported by Vine- Viña La Rosa 2010 La Palma Reserve yard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. Viña Requingua 2010 Puerto Viejo 85 Sauvignon Blanc (Cachapoal Valley); $14. 87 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley); Powdery on the nose, with aromas of sweet pear and $10. For full review see page 14. Best Buy. lime. The palate is round and melony, indicating a CALIFORNIA warmer origin. Tastes a lot like basic Pinot Grigio; Arboleda 2010 Sauvignon Blanc peach and green melon are the lead flavors. Finishes CABERNETS & BLENDS 86 (Aconcagua Valley); $17. A bit heavy and oily solid but soft, with lasting sweetness. Imported by Viña on the nose, with chunky passion fruit and pink grape- La Rosa USA. —M.S. Hestan 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa fruit aromas. The palate is weighty and the flavors run 95 Valley); $100. Another excellent Cabernet toward tropical fruit before pithy, almost bitter passion Haras 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Maipo Val- from Hestan. It’s riper and juicier than the ’06, showing fruit takes over. A bulky, semigreen wine with tropical 84 ley); $12. Bland at first, with applesauce aro- the babyfat of this famous vintage. But it’s no less com- shadings. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. mas. The palate is more zesty and lively, with tropical plex or ageworthy, just drinkable earlier. Shows con- —M.S. flavors of melon and mango along with lime. Finishes centrated blackberry, black currant, anise, licorice and with green citrus and jalapeño heat. Basic but good smoky oak flavors, wrapped into dramatic, thick, firm Tamaya 2010 Winemaker’s Selection Sin- enough for quaffing. Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine tannins. Should develop over the next decade and 86 gle Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Limarí Val- Estates. —M.S. beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ley); $18. Oceanic and green, with lots of pop and Sauvignon character. The palate is tight, linear and cit- La Cruz 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Val- Anomaly 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. ric, with sharp acidity. Tastes citrusy and zesty, with fla- 84 ley); $13. Aromas of grapefuit blend with 94 Helena); $85. Awesomely ripe and delicious vors of passion fruit and lemon-lime. Similar on the green, vegetal notes of asparagus. The palate is pliant Cabernet, dazzling with blackberry and cherry pie fill- finish, with a snappy edge. Imported by Ecovalley and easy, with mango, citrus and green bean flavors. ing, cassis, anise, dark chocolate, sweet vanilla, toast, Quality Wine Group and National Refrescos Import Doesn’t commit to being green and vegetal or blaring spice and even an earthy note of green olives. The tan- Company, LLC. —M.S. and citric; falls in between. Imported by Misa Imports. nins are soft, sweet and complex. Really good and well- —M.S. structured, one of the best St. Helena Cabs of the Viu Manent 2010 Secreto Sauvignon Blanc vintage. Drink now–2014. —S.H. Chilcas 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Val- (Casablanca Valley); $14. A super pungent 86 ley); $10. Smells like spiced applesauce. The style of SB that will knock you over with nettle, grape- 83 Oakville East 2008 Core Stone (Oakville); palate is more full than light, with roundness but fruit, passion fruit and sweaty aromas. The palate is $125. A flashy, showy wine, whose flamboyant lemony, tart flavors of citrus and green apple. Tart again 94 sheer and citric, with tight, angular flavors of lemon, flavors are tempered by beautiful Oakville tannins. It’s on the finish, with an odd oily feel. Seems green as well. lime, pineapple and green herbs. Zesty to the point of made in the modern, ripe style, with explosive black- Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. scouring, with jalapeño heat on the finish. Imported by berry, cassis, bacon and sandalwood flavors. The oak is Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S. sweet and smoky and refined. Just beautiful, and should OTHER WHITE WINES hold over the next six years. —S.H. Casa Silva 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley); $12. Silverado 2008 SOLO Cabernet Sauvignon 85 Tropical and fresh, Cono Sur 2009 Visión Block: Quiltramán but monotone and dilute on the nose. The palate is (Stags Leap District); $90. An absolutely gor- Riesling (Bío Bío Valley); $15. For Chilean 94 lemony and tart in feel and flavor, with orange and 88 geous Cabernet. It flatters all the way through, from Riesling, this steps it up a notch. The nose hits with tangerine tastes as well. Dry and basic on the finish, petrol and white fruits, while the palate is lightly spritzy the flamboyantly ripe cassis, cherry, cocoa and anise fla- with a lemony, grapefruity fade. Imported by Vin and edgy, with sweet, tropical flavors that spread out vors to the smooth tannins and long, spicy finish. So Divino. —M.S. over the palate. Pithy on the finish, but a good taste of refined and rich, yet so elegant. Should age for at least South American Riesling. Imported by Vineyard the next 6–8 years. —S.H. Casa Silva 2010 Cool Coast Sauvignon Brands. —M.S. 85 Blanc (Colchagua Valley); $23. Piercing SB 6 North 2008 Flagstone Cabernet Sauvi- with a lot of zap and sheering character. The nose is Morandé 2010 Reserva Gewürztraminer 93 gnon (Napa Valley); $52. A blend of various green but true, with briney flavors of grapefruit, aspara- 87 (Casablanca Valley); $11. Sweet and musky vineyards, this is a seamless Cabernet, impossible to gus and lemon. Spritzy on the mouthfeel; finishes cit- on the nose, with lychee aromas and flavors that are find any fault with. It’s just perfect in structural integrity rusy and lean, and then pithy. Imported by Vin Divino. suggestive of Argentine Torrontés. The wine dances on and sweet, oak-accented blackberry, cherry and cassis —M.S. the tongue with some elegance, and the tropical flavors fruit. So delicious, you’ll want to drink it now, and that’s finish with pineapple and a touch of natural cream and just fine. —S.H. Santa Alicia 2010 Reserva Sauvignon vanilla bean. Imported by Morande USA. Best Buy. 85 Blanc (Maipo Valley); $9. Mild pungency —M.S. Pride Mountain 2008 Vintner Select Cuvée with an oily edge describes the bouquet. It’s lemony 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $130. and slick in the mouth, with green papaya and lemon Oveja Negra 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Hugely delicious, just a to drink. So soft and velvety, flavors. Dry and crisp on the back end, with white pep- 86 Blanc-Carmenére (Maule Valley); $12. so rich in blackberry jam, cassis and chocolate flavors, per notes and sharp lasting acidity. Imported by Halby Smooth and citrusy on the nose, with grapefruit and with the tannins so smooth and round. Really wonder- Marketing. Best Buy. —M.S. minerally aromas. The palate is medium in weight, with ful over the next few years, although the softness and good acidity and pithy green fruit and grapefruit fla- high alcohol suggest it’s not an ager. —S.H. Tamaya 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Limarí Val- vors. Brings bite and a dusting of green chile spice on 85 ley); $9. Pungent and stiff, but clearly it’s Sauvi- the finish. Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. Pride Mountain 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon gnon Blanc. The palate is a pure citric wash of tight 93 (Napa County / Sonoma County); $66. lime, lemon and cucumber flavors. Turns toward crisp Cono Sur 2010 Riesling (Central Valley); Hugely delicious, just a joy to drink. So soft and velvety, tangerine on the finish. Lean and bright in style. 85 $10. Musky and sweet smelling, with aromas of so rich in blackberry jam, cassis and chocolate flavors, Imported by Ecovalley Quality Wine Group and ripe melon and petrol. Despite the chunky, pulpy palate with the tannins so smooth and round. Really wonder-

WineMag.com | 51 BUYING I GUIDE ful over the next few years, although softness and high Katherine Goldschmidt 2009 Crazy Creek smoky cedar wood. The mouthfeel is elegant on this alcohol suggest it’s not an ager. —S.H. 90 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander dry, complex wine, which should be decanted. —S.H. Valley); $20. This 100% Cabernet is very rich and for- Robert Mondavi 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- ward in classic flavors of blackberries, and cassis. Oak Aquinas 2007 Reserve (Napa Valley); $25. 93 gnon (Oakville); $45. A deeply flavored, barrels bring spicy, smoky, vanilla accents that comple- 88 A lovely, easy-to-like Bordeaux blend that stands impressive Cabernet, rich in fruit and magnificently ment the fruit. The wine is a little soft and herbal in the proud next to Napa wines far more expensive. It’s rich structured. Hits it out of the park with ripe blackberries way of Alexander Valley Cabernets, but is quite elegant, and sweet in raspberries, cherries and blackberries, and cassis that finish sweet in toasty oak. The tannins and a good deal for the price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. with a smoky coat of oak. Drink now. Editors’ Choice. are pure Oakville, soft and complex. Now–2015. —S.H. —S.H. Ridge 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Anomaly 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. 90 (Santa Cruz Mountains); $40. A lovely Buehler 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Helena); $85. Ripe, jammy fruit marks this Cabernet, dry and rich in flavor, showing lots of class. 88 (Napa Valley); $35. Sweet and jammy in black- polished young Cabernet. It’s rich in cherries and red It’s certainly ripe, with blackberry and cherry flavors berry, cherry and cola flavors, with a rich coating of oak, licorice, with a sweet liqueur potency and an umami that veer into currants. There’s also a minerally tang. and soft, generous tannins. It’s a glamorous Cabernet, intensity suggesting salty smoked meats. The tannins The wine is immature now, with hard tannins. Think of not one for the cellar, but to drink now. —S.H. are considerable in this muscular wine, which suggests it as a junior version of Ridge’s Montebello bottling, not aging for five or six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. as long lived, but still deserving of 6–8 years in a cool Cuda Ridge Wines 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 88 gnon (Livermore Valley); $30. Tasted two Mad Hatter 2008 Red Wine (Napa Valley); bottles. This is a new producer out of the Livermore 92 $58. An impressive wine from this St. Helena Trailhead 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley that is starting to get noticed for its Cab Sauv winery, with the vineyard below Howell Mountain. It’s 90 Valley); $30. Rich and ripe in fruit, this pol- and Cab Franc, and this wine shows why. Juicy, layered rich and classic, showing ripe blackberry, blueberry, ished young Cabernet shows intense blackberry, cassis with plum and nicely integrated tannins, Cuda sources currant and earthy flavors, with wonderfully thick, and sweet cedar flavors, wrapped into firm tannins. from several vineyards around Livermore, then ages it refined tannins. An elaborate, Cabernet that should Flashy and opulent, it should provide good drinking all in 75% new French oak for 18 months. —V.B. benefit from up to six years in the cellar. —S.H. over the next six years. —S.H. Fenestra 2006 Thatcher Bay Vineyard Envy 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Viader 2008 Red Wine (Napa Valley); $100. 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley); $24. An easy-drinking Livermore Cabernet with for- (Calistoga); $48. Classic Calistoga red wine, Shows the luscious fruit and softness of previous 91 90 ward fruit notes of raspberry, black cherry and clove totally dry, full-bodied and big. Assaults with sweet, ripe vintages, with rich, layered raspberry, cherry, cassis, that’s elegant, light and balanced. —V.B. sour cherry candy, cola, anise and spice flavors that fin- vanilla, caramelized oak and spice flavors that go on ish long and lush. Yet it shows a refined tannic struc- and on into a long finish. The tannins are sturdy from Fidelity 2009 Crazy Creek Estate (Alexan- ture, and there’s a firm minerality. Could surprise in this blend of the two Cabernets, Sauvignon and Franc, der Valley); $14. Mostly Merlot, with a bal- the cellar after six years, but no guarantees. —S.H. which was grown on the lower slopes of Howell Moun- 88 ancing Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a soft, gentle wine, a tain. Yet it’s so sweet and fruity, you can drink it now. little simple, but rich and satisfying. And at this price, a Oakville East 2008 Exposure Cabernet Misses some of the complexity of the 2007 vintage, but bargain for a full-bodied, Bordeaux-style wine. —S.H. 91 Sauvignon (Oakville); $100. A ripe, elaborate still very fine and polished. —S.H. Cabernet, offering a blast of fruit in the flashiest way. Goyette 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Wows with tiers of blackberries, black cherries, cassis, C. Beck 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $24. A bit sharp, but polished and sup- cocoa, cool mint, spice and smoked meat that are almost Valley); $48. Made from 100% Cabernet 88 89 ple, with good varietal flavors of blackberries, currants, sweet, but the finish is dry. The powerful oak overlay is Sauvignon and aged in 50% new French oak barrels, tobacco and a hint of heady crême de cassis liqueur. perfectly in keeping with the wine’s volume. Some this is a flamboyant wine. It’s enormous in blackber- Seems at its best now, so drink up. —S.H. sharpness throughout is a minor fault. —S.H. ries, cola, sweet licorice and cedar flavors, and the tan- nins are very refined. Forward and jammy, it’s a flashy Joseph Phelps 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Robledo 2006 Fifth Edition Cabernet Sauvi- wine to drink over the next several years. —S.H. (Napa Valley); $56. Made in the Phelps style, gnon (Napa Valley); $80. 88 91 Made in the modern big, muscular and ripe, showing powerful blackberry, cult style, this Cabernet is softly luscious, oaky and enor- Dominus 2008 Napanook (Napa Valley); cherry, blueberry, licorice, spice and sweet oak flavors. mously rich. It shows ripe, almost sweet flavors of black- 89 $59. With grapes from Yountville, this Bor- It’s slightly generic for Napa Cabernet, but showy and berries, raspberries and cassis, and ends with a spicy deaux blend, which is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, has a appealing. Drink now. —S.H. finish. A big, powerfully luscious wine that could pick up very fine structure. It’s firm in tannins and acidity, with bottle complexities over the next few years. —S.H. a bracing minerality. The flavors are already quite Paradise Ridge 2007 Elevation Cabernet advanced, suggesting jammy cherries, blackberries and 88 Sauvignon (Rockpile); $40. A tough, tannic 6 North 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard cassis. Drink now for sheer deliciousness, after decant- wine, not showing much generosity due to the astrin- 90 Threshold Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- ing. —S.H. gency. There’s a great core of ripe, wild blackberries, ley); $55. Massively rich and sweet in blackberries, blueberries, forest herbs and spices, but it is hard and cherries, cola and oak, this Cabernet trades complexity Sixteen by Twenty 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- somewhat rustic. A rich steak in blue cheese sauce will and dryness for sheer razzle-dazzle. It’s an impressive, 89 gnon (Napa Valley); $44. Lush and ripe, be a nice pairing. —S.H. show-offy wine, but if you want to cellar it, you’re a made in the modern California cult style of flamboy- gambler. —S.H. antly sweet blackberries, cassis and chocolate, soft tan- Robledo 2007 Los Braceros (Sonoma Val- nins and immediate appeal. Defines richness and 88 ley); $30. A delicious, easy wine to drink now. Black Cordon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon opulence, if not complexity. Drink now–2014. —S.H. It’s soft and fruity, with lots of candied raspberries, 90 (Napa Valley); $62. An opulent, polished blackberries, anise, cocoa and spices. The wine is a trib- Cabernet, made by the well-known vintner Paul Hobbs. William Hill Estate 2007 Bench Blend ute to the Braceros, Mexicans who were invited to Cal- It’s rich and ripe in blackberry, cassis and chocolate fla- 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $45. ifornia to work the fields during World War II. —S.H. vors, with ultrasmooth tannins and a long, spicy finish. Still gritty in tannins at nearly four years of age, but A bit on the hot, sweet side, but a wine for drinking very rich in fruit, showing concentrated blackberry, cur- Aquinas 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa over the next few years. —S.H. rant, cassis and mineral flavors, accented with sweet, 87 Valley); $15. This is a soft, gentle Cabernet for

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 drinking now. It’s pleasantly rich, offering blackberry, Château Julien 2007 La Conviviance (Mon- One Hope 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal- cherry, chocolate and cedar flavors, wrapped into easy 86 terey County); $90. Soft and dull in texture. 84 ifornia); $19. Half the proceeds go to charity, tannins. —S.H. Despite rich, elaborate layers of blackberries, cherries, but this Cab is not without problems, especially at this blueberries, chocolate and toasty oak, it lacks vibrancy price. It’s a country-style wine, rough in tannins and C&B 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- and vitality. It’s mainly Merlot and Malbec. —S.H. overripe in raisiny flavors. But it’s dry, clean and fin- 87 ley); $12. Tastes as rich and sweet as a dessert ishes long and spicy. —S.H. pastry, with sweet vanilla oak, raspberry and cherry pie Main & Geary 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon filling and cinnamon spice flavors. Somewhat one- 86 (Napa Valley); $20. A soft, gentle Cabernet, Pavillion Crossing 2009 Reserve Cabernet dimensional, but tasty and smooth. Drink now. Best with flavors of blackberries, cherries, raspberries, cas- 83 Sauvignon (Lodi); $14. This might be an Buy. —S.H. sis and sweet oak. Drink this rich, forward wine now. example of a wine that’s too low in alcohol (13.1%). Two —S.H. bottles were tasted and both came off as very soft and a El Roy 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan- tad bland, even waxy. —V.B. der Valley); $20. Soft and ripe, made for Mauritson 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 Spell Wine 2006 Spellonu Red (Napa Val- drinking now for the polished berry-cherry, tobacco, (Sonoma County); $35. A sweet, rather heavy 86 ley); $15. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon and sweet oak and spice flavors. For the price, there’s a lot wine. Cabernets hardly get riper than this, with its mas- 82 Merlot, this is a sweet, rustic wine. It’s overripe and of upscale character. —S.H. sive, jammy cherry, raspberry and blackberry fruit. Porty, with caramel, blackberry jam and chocolate fla- Delicious, but one-dimensional. Drink now. —S.H. vors. —S.H. Fenestra 2006 Conjugation (Livermore 87 Valley); $35. Fenestra’s Bordeaux blend of Spelletich Cellars 2006 Reserve Cabernet Cabernet (62%), Merlot, Cab Franc and Malbec is 86 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $55. Feels heavy OTHER RED BLENDS dense and rich brimming with chocolate and dark and soft, and tastes rather sweet and extracted in jammy cherry with soft tannins and a soft finish. It finishes just blackberry, cherry and chocolate flavors. Yet the tan- Envy 2008 Bee Bee’s Blend (Calistoga); a teensy bit sweet. —V.B. nins are smooth and refined. There’s some possibility 92 $48. A great, complex wine for drinking now the wine may age beyond its current doldrums into with roasts and stews. Smoothly tannic, it’s big, yet dry Maldonado 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon something better. —S.H. and subtle, showing flavors of blackberries, raspberries 87 (Napa Valley); $49. Very tannic and dry, espe- and cherries, with a delightful minerality. The sweet cially for a 2007 Cabernet, not showing the fatness and Wheelhouse 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon finish is long, rich and spicy. —S.H. opulence of that acclaimed vintage. There are some 86 (Napa Valley); $18. A little simple, but on the buried treasure blackberry and cassis flavors, but the plus side of that word. You’ll find plenty of varietal Elyse 2007 Le Corbeau Hudson Vineyard wine is so tough, you have to wonder if it will ever come blackberry and cherry flavors, with a kiss of oak and 90 -Syrah (Los Carneros); $37. One around. —S.H. smooth tannins. Drink now. —S.H. of the best Rhône-style blends on the market. Soft, sup- ple and complex in raspberry and cherry compôte, spice Mount Veeder 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon De Novo 2008 aCURE eSTATE Vineyard and vanilla flavors, it has a silky texture and a long, dis- 87 (Napa Valley); $40. A good wine to drink now 85 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); tinguished finish. The precise blend is 90% Grenache for its sweet, ripe berry and mocha flavors and smoky $27. A good, rugged, everyday wine, sugary sweet and and 10% Syrah. —S.H. coat of oak. It has smooth tannins and a spicy finish. soft in the way of some superripe Cabernets but very Give it a good decant to let it breathe for a few hours. rich in raspberry and cocoa flavor. The curious spelling Casey Flat Ranch 2008 Red (Capay Valley); —S.H. of the vineyard designation on the label is hard to 89 $35. An intriguing Syrah-Cab blend from a explain. —S.H. new, micro-producer in the Capay Valley, a farm region Napa Station 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon east of the Napa Valley where Laura Barrett, previously 87 (Napa Valley); $22. Lots of rich, spicy flavors Fontanella 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon of Fisher Vineyards, is making the wines and Ursula in this smooth Cabernet. It offers a mouthburst of ripe 85 (Mount Veeder); $52. Soft and candied in Hermacinski, previously of Screaming Eagle, heads up cherries, blackberries, cassis, bacon and pepper, and is raspberry and cherry granola flavors, this Cabernet has sales and marketing. This first effort is rich and a touch soft and rather sweet. Drink now. —S.H. very smooth tannins. It’s delicious, but a bit too sweet wild, big and still tight, but full of savory sage and forest and one-dimensional. —S.H. floor, as well as blackberry and vanilla. Huge potential Robert Mondavi 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon here. —V.B. (Napa Valley); $28. With rich, sweet black- Franciscan 2007 Magnificat Meritage 87 Ridge 2009 Geyserville (Sonoma County); berry and cocoa flavors, this is a very nice Cabernet for (Napa Valley); $50. Basically good, with 85 $35. A blend of many varieties, based on Zin- drinking with a good meal. It’s a little rough around the jammy berry flavors, but ultimately clumsy, especially 89 fandel and Carignane, this is a smooth, spicy wine, edges, with jaggy tannins. Ready now. —S.H. for the price. Shows overripe fruit and green tannins. brimming with ripe red fruit and smoked meat flavors, Feels sharp toward the finish. Not going anywhere, so with a soy, bacony umami richness. The official alcohol Silverado 2008 Estate Grown Cabernet drink up. —S.H. is 14.3%, but it tastes hotter than that. Ideal for barbe- Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $45. 87 A good, ele- cue and roasted meats. —S.H. gant Cabernet, if a little soft and rough around the Merriam Vineyards 2007 Windacre Vine- edges. It shows classic Napa flavors of blackberries, cur- 85 yard Cabernet Franc (Russian River Val- Hook & Ladder 2008 Station 10 (Russian rants and cassis, wrapped into smooth, sweet tannins. ley); $40. Tough, dry and gritty, with astringent tannins 88 River Valley); $17. This is a blend of Zinfan- Drink now. —S.H. framing black cherry and oak flavors. Finishes hot, with del, Petite Sirah, Carignane and . It’s a scour of alcohol. Lacks elegance and breed. Drink a lusty, full-bodied wine, rich and savory in cherries, Tortuga Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- up. —S.H. licorice, bacon, cola and Indian spices, with a dry finish. 87 gnon (Napa Valley); $100. Soft and sweetly A lovely wine for summer barbecue, or a cold weather jammy in cherries, blackberries and cassis, with lots of Château Julien 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon beef stew. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. toasty oak. It’s quite a good wine, refined and flashy in 84 (Monterey County); $12. Dry and clean, this the modern style, but somewhat obvious in appeal. is a nice Cabernet for everyday drinking. It shows mod- Ludwig 2009 Hammerklavier McIntyre Probably showing its best now. Tasted twice, with con- est blackberry, cherry, currant and herb flavors, with a 88 Vineyard Pinot Noir-Dornfelder (Santa sistent results. —S.H. kiss of oak. —S.H. Lucia Highlands); $28. Dornfelder is a red grape vari-

WineMag.com | 53 BUYING I GUIDE ety grown in Germany. This blend is very much like a Stephen Vincent 2009 Crimson (Califor- Merlot from Mendocino County grapes that smells cool climate Pinot Noir. It’s soft and light in texture and 84 nia); $12. A pretty good bistro-style wine, dry musky and tastes a bit bland. —V.B. low in alcohol, with complex cherry, leather, tobacco and silky, with cherry, berry, currant, tobacco and spice and spice flavors. Drink it now. —S.H. flavors at an everyday price. It’s a blend of Syrah and Spelletich Cellars 2006 Reserve Merlot Petite Sirah. —S.H. 82 (Napa Valley); $45. A soft, sweet, heavy wine. Maldonado 2008 Proprietary Red Wine Tastes sugary in cherry pie filling flavors, and lacks 88 (Napa Valley); $36. Hard in tanins and earthy, vibrance. Ready now. —S.H. this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah is a MERLOT little rustic, but it shows a certain elegance, and there’s a nice core of blackberries, cherries, tobacco and savory Château Julien 2007 Private Reserve Mer- MALBEC lot (Monterey County); $42. spices. A wine to watch in future vintages. —S.H. 90 For full review see page 10. Krutz 2008 Krupp Vineyard Malbec (Napa Bella Luna 2007 Estate Riserva Bellicaia 93 Valley); $60. One of the few California Mal- Cabernet Sauvignon- (Paso Robert Mondavi 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley); becs that comes close to the dense fruit and sheer deli- 87 $21. A lovely Merlot, light and spicy. It has pretty ciousness of Argentine bottlings. The wine is Robles); $45. Very ripe and fruity, in the Paso style, 89 flavors of cherries, mocha and cinnamon, with fine, ripe full-bodied, soft and insanely rich in blackberry, black with tiers of sweet red and black cherry pie filling and tannins, with a sweetness from glycerine. An elegant currant, cassis, chocolate, bacon and spice flavors, with spice flavors. The acidity, which must come from the Merlot at a good price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. intense tannins and a fine cut of acidity for balance. Sangiovese, is quite high and a little invasive, but it’s a This is barbecue wine on steroids. —S.H. charming wine. —S.H. Bonterra 2008 Merlot (Mendocino County); $16. A solidly made, easy-tasting Cinnabar 2007 Amber Knolls Vineyard Château Julien 2007 Black Nova III Malbec- 86 Merlot made from organic Mendocino grapes that Malbec (Lake County); $50. A super-dark, Syrah (Monterey County); $78. 90 87 Extraordi- tastes of cherry and cranberry and is smooth in texture. well integrated, gamey, ripe and tannic Malbec that narily rich and sweet in raspberry, cherry, vanilla custard, The wine includes 13% Syrah as well as smatterings of opens well and dives straight into savory and peppery brown sugar and cinnamon spice flavors. Soft and some- Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Carignane. —V.B. characteristics. The wine is an interesting, fruit-forward what sugary on the finish, it shows lots of ripe California version of California Malbec from a vineyard more fruit, but would benefit from being drier. —S.H. Merriam Vineyards 2006 Windacre Merlot known for Cabernet Sauvignon. Big (15% alcohol) but 86 (Russian River Valley); $30. A bruiser of a age-worthy. —V.B. Treana 2008 Treana Red Cabernet Sauvi- Merlot, dry and muscular, with green olive, blackberry, 87 gnon-Syrah (Paso Robles); $35. This blend sage and smoky cedar flavors, wrapped into bigtime El Roy 2007 Malbec (Alexander Valley); showcases the soft lusciousness and ripe fruit of Paso tannins. Even at the age of nearly 5 it’s still brooding 87 $20. A good everyday red wine, rich and sweet Robles. It’s rich and sweet in jammy blackberries, cher- and hard. Not an ager, but there’s something fine and in dark berrry, chocolate and smoked meat flavors, ries, chocolate and spicy sandalwood. Drink now. —S.H. polished about it now. —S.H. wrapped into smooth tannins. It’s soft and ready for drinking now. —S.H. Benessere 2006 Phenomenon (Napa Val- Pavillion Crossing 2009 Reserve Merlot 86 ley); $50. A blend of Cabernet, Sangiovese, 86 (Lodi); $13. Pleasant, with soft texture and tan- Fenestra 2008 Ghielmetti Vineyard Mal- Merlot and Syrah, this wine is pleasantly sweet for nins and notes of cinnamon and clove, this Lodi Merlot 86 bec (Livermore Valley); $27. Not much drinking now. It’s all about raspberry and cherry fruit drops a bit at the finish and is 13.1% alcohol. —V.B. aroma out of this wine at first. From one of Livermore’s and spices. Would score higher if not for the sugary fin- better vineyards, Ghielmetti, this Malbec has a tannic ish. —S.H. Stephen Vincent 2009 Merlot (California); backbone, is quite dry, very ripe and with the requisite 85 $12. Lots of juicy, upfront flavor in this softly blue and blackberry and hint of clove. Not as layered as Diamond Ridge Vineyards 2007 Aspects ripe wine. It’s filled with flavors of cherry and raspberry it could be. —V.B. 86 (Lake County); $28. This blend of Cabernet jam, cocoa, cola and spices. —S.H. Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Merlot and Petite Sirah starts Zucca 2009 Canterbury Vineyards Malbec Château Julien 2009 Merlot (Monterey (Calaveras County); $28. off with cassis, chocolate and mushroom aromas but 83 Too much tobacco County); $12. becomes a little one-dimensional on the palate, though 84 At this price, a decent party on this wine that comes off as slightly overripe and wine to serve when no one’s fussy. It’s dry, medium- sweet. —V.B. otherwise is balanced and relatively light in alcohol bodied and fruity, with a pleasant cut of tannins. —S.H. (13.5%). —V.B. Lava Cap 2008 Reserve Merlot (El Longoria 2008 Blues Cuvée (Santa Barbara PETITE SIRAH Dorado); $20. A Sierra Foothills-area Merlot County); $28. A rustic wine with some sharp 84 85 without much aroma or deep flavor, fairly middle of the Envy 2008 Nord Vineyard Petite Sirah elbows, but there’s enough berry, licorice, soy sauce and road and 14.9% alcohol. —V.B. (Napa Valley); $45. For full review see page 4. grilled beef flavor to satisfy. With sturdy tannins, it’s a 94 nice barbecue wine. —S.H. One Hope 2009 Merlot (California); $19. A C. Beck 2008 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley); modest wine that has much to be modest about. $38. For full review see page 7. El Roy 2006 Proprietary Red Wine (Alexan- 84 92 It’s dry and rather simple, with candied cherry-berry, 84 der Valley); $18. This blend of Bordeaux vari- cola and spice flavors. —S.H. Envy 2008 Vaca Mountain Petite Sirah eties and Syrah is sweet and simple. It has candied 92 (Napa Valley); $45. For full review see page 8. flavors of red fruits, vanilla, Indian spices and Tortoise Creek 2009 Schoolhouse Cuvee Cellar Selection. caramelized oak. —S.H. 84 Merlot (Clarksburg); $11. Made from Clarks- burg grapes, a small appellation near Lodi, this soft Envy 2008 Estate Petite Sirah (Calistoga); Spell Wine 2006 Severed Head Red (Napa Merlot tastes a touch metallic and its blackberry and 90 $45. A lovely Petite Sirah to drink with barbe- 84 Valley); $18. A rustic but friendly red wine, cherry notes finish a tad bitter. —V.B. cue and roasts. Shows classic Petite personality, with blended from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. dry, thick tannins and concentrated blackberry, blue- Shows blackberry, currant and Port flavors, with lots of Castle Rock 2007 Merlot (Mendocino berry and cassis flavors, with a peppery finish. Soft caramelized oak. —S.H. 82 County); $10. A low-price, high-production enough for opening now. —S.H.

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Mauritson 2008 Madrone Spring Vineyard dry, rich wine. It’s delicious in cherry, bacon, pine, wild whole other layer of size. Pair with some serious barbe- 84 Petite Sirah (Rockpile); $37. Fans of great herb and spice flavors, wrapped into smooth tannins. cue. —V.B. big wines will like it, but this Petite Sirah is unbalanced, Shows Zin’s briary edge while maintaining Napa bal- with heat from high alcohol compounding the acidity, ance. —S.H. Claudia Springs 2007 Zinfandel (Mendo- making the mouhtfeel prickly. The berry flavors are 87 cino County); $24. Muted at first, this wine overripe, running into raisins and chocolate. —S.H. Main & Geary 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek opens up nicely with time. Sweet, ripe and easy on the 89 Valley); $18. Am ambitious wine, obviously finish, its core is full of black pepper and clove. The grown from low yielding vines whose fruity flavors have grapes are sourced from several distinctive vineyards ZINFANDEL been concentrated into wild blackberries and cherries, in Mendocino County. Drink it with a steak. —V.B. finished with the exotic spices that characterize Dry Chiarito 2007 Estate Bottled Zinfandel Creek Zinfandel. A very good Zin for the price. Edi- Dutton-Goldfield 2009 Dutton Ranch - 92 (Mendocino); $21. John Chiarito is making tors’ Choice. —S.H. 87 Morelli Lane Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian Italian varieties like Nero d’Avola and Negro River Valley); $40. Sweet in wild raspberry, cherry Amaro––as well as estate-grown Petite Sirah and Zin- Miraflores 2008 Zinfandel (El Dorado); and milk chocolate flavors, with pretty tannins. A bit fandel––on the outskirts of Ukiah, from his basement 89 $23. A lovely way to enter into the Miraflores on the soft, direct side, but really delicious, with loads winery. There he combines an Old-World sensibility world, a Zin from El Dorado that’s smooth and full of of exotic spices. Drink now. —S.H. with New World techniques. He’s nailing it here with a all the blackberry one could want, but most noticeable rustic, tannic but intensely delicious Zin full of berry of all is the pepper that tingles the tongue throughout Fontanella 2009 Zinfandel (Napa Valley); aromas and a spicy finish. Big and hearty, this wine has but particularly on the finish. —V.B. 87 $36. Sweet and candied, this Zin, which is a soul. —V.B. blend of Mount Veeder and Oakville fruit, is obviously Novy 2009 Papera Ranch Vineyard Zinfan- superripe in blackberries, cherries, raspberries, mocha Ridge 2009 East Bench Zinfandel (Dry del (Russian River Valley); $29. Shows plenty and dusty baking spices. It’s sweet in fruity essence but Creek Valley); $26. 89 92 A rich, lusty and satisfying of Zinfandel flavors, on steroids, with amazingly ripe, nicely dry on the finish. Drink now with barbecue, Zinfandel, showing classic varietal flavors of ripe, wild powerful wild red berry, cola, mocha, sweet sandalwood baked ham, soft cheeses. —S.H. red berries, tobacco, soy sauce, bacon and white pep- and baking spice flavors, wrapped into smooth, sweet Graton Ridge 2009 Bacigalupi Vineyards per. Alcohol is notable in the slight heat and glyceriney tannins. This lusty Zinfandel is best now with a beauti- sweetness, but those elements are welcome parts of the Zinfandel (Russian River Valley); $38. fully grilled steak. —S.H. 87 wine’s personality. Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Marked by ripe flavors of raspberry and cherry jam, Dutton-Goldfield 2009 Dutton Ranch blueberry pie with the crust and black pepper, this Zin’s Ridge 2009 Ponzo Zinfandel (Russian River Stoetz Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian fruit is the star. It’s a little on the soft, direct side, but Valley); $28. While the Russian River Valley is 88 sure is delicious. Drink now. —S.H. 91 River Valley); $30. Front-loaded with savory rasp- a cool-climate area, the vineyard sourcing for this wine berry, cherry, blueberry and currant flavors that taste is in a warmer, eastern part of the appellation. It’s ultra- Plungerhead 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel Zin- freshly picked right out of the summer woods. It’s spicy rich in berry, licorice and bacon flavors that are sweet in fandel (Lodi); $15. A decently made old-vine and tannic, asking for a good char-broiled steak to play 87 the middle palate, but finish with a dry scour of tannins. Lodi Zinfandel that’s smooth and soft, with enough with. —S.H. Lovely now and over the next six years. —S.H. clove, cinnamon and brambly character to stand out and be paired with a range of smoked, grilled and mar- Paradise Ridge 2007 Hoenselaars Vineyard Ridge 2009 Benito Dusi Ranch Zinfandel inated meats and other full-flavored food. —V.B. Zinfandel (Russian River Valley); $40. A (Paso Robles); $30. Leave it to Ridge to make 88 91 lusty wine, rustic and mouth-filling. It’s very ripe, show- one of the best to come out of Paso Robles. Redwood Creek 2008 Frei Brothers Vine- ing berry and cherry flavors that veer into currants and Although the wine shows Paso’s lush, ripe flavors and 87 yards Zinfandel (Lodi); $8. For full review softness and is sweet in raspberry jam and chocolate, it raisins, but the finish is dry. With big, firm tannins and a see page 14. Best Buy. maintains structural integrity. Drink it now with great peppery taste, this Zinfandel will be good with barbe- barbecue. —S.H. cue. —S.H. VC Cellars 2006 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val- ley); $25. For those who like their Zins on the Terra d’Oro 2007 Deaver Vineyard Zinfan- 87 Miraflores 2008 Herbert Vineyard Zinfan- sweet side, this one’s rich in raspberry and cherry jam 90 del (El Dorado); $25. A bigger, chewier, deli- 88 del (Amador County); $30. With inviting Dr. flavor, with the sweet, honeyed taste of glycerine from ciously made version of Miraflores estate bottling, the Pepper-like aromas, this Terra d’Oro Deaver Vineyard high alcohol. —S.H. Herbert Vineyard is dry and smooth, a Zin of black- wine is structured like a building, with lots of savory berry and pepper notes throughout with a finish that layers over sweet. It’s big alcohol-content wise at 15.5% Mauritson 2009 Jack’s Cabin Zinfandel could go on for days. Made by Marco Cappelli, who but is a good example of Deaver’s intriguing blend of 86 (Rockpile); $39. Sugary sweet, while very high bought the Frank Herbert Vineyard in the town of Fair power and finesse. —V.B. alcohol adds even sweeter tastes of glycerine. The wine Play in 2002. —V.B. itself is jammy in raspberries and blackberries. A big, Benessere 2007 Hollystone-Collins Old lusty, tannic wine whose power will be balanced with Old Ghost 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel Zin- 87 Vines Zinfandel (Napa Valley); $32. Soft rich barbecue. —S.H. 90 fandel (Lodi); $37. A big wine in every sense and candy sweet, with raspberry and cherry pie filling, of the word - 15.9% alcohol, a touch of residual sugar, raisin, vanilla, cocoa, brown sugar and cinnamon spice Mauritson 2009 Rockpile Ridge Vineyard all American oak - but a pleasing example of what big, flavors. The tannins are lovely and the mouthfeel is 86 Zinfandel (Rockpile); $35. Here’s a big, rich, old-vine Lodi Zinfandel fruit can be when it’s made bright. If you like your Zins on the sweet side, it’s for lusty Zinfandel, the kind that packs plenty of flavor. It well. Definitely rich and thick, even bacony, the wine is you. —S.H. explodes in wild forest raspberry and blackberry fruit, still lush with soft tannins and lots of chocolate and accented with spicy thyme and chamomile tea, while cherry crammed between cardamom and black pepper Chatom Vineyards 2007 Zinfandel (Calav- extremely high alcohol gives it heat and a glyceriney spice. Let it air. —V.B. 87 eras County); $19. Deep purple in color with sweetness. —S.H. a yeasty nose, this Zin from the southern end of the Trailhead 2009 Zinfandel (Napa Valley); Sierra Foothills is structured and intense, dry and more 6 North 2009 The Big Cat Zinfandel (Dry 90 $25. Zinfandel is one of the hardest varieties to spicy than fruity, with plenty of savory pepper and 85 Creek Valley); $29. A rugged, fierce wine, get right, but Trailhead threads the needle with this chocolate throughout. Its 15.5% alcohol level adds a brusque in tannins, that needs big, rich meats and oils

WineMag.com | 55 BUYING I GUIDE to balance it out. Short ribs and similar fare will play Perry Creek 2008 Altitude: 2401 Zinfandel raspberry liqueur and baking spices, finished with per- well against the blackberry and raisin flavors of this 83 (El Dorado); $28. Not a lot of aromas in this fectly applied, smoky oak, and brightened with fine high-alcohol Zin. —S.H. 14.9% old-vine Zin, though a touch of fruit shows up acidity. A wine of great charm, it should continue to mid-palate. Pretty so-so. —V.B. develop in the bottle for six years. —S.H. Brazin 2008 Old Vines Zinfandel (Lodi); 85 $16. A mighty big Zin from Lodi, 15% alcohol, Bella Luna 2009 Fighter Pilot Red Zinfandel Donum Estate 2008 Thomas Pinot Noir full of sweet berries and vanilla flavor. Should be easy to 82 (Paso Robles); $34. Tastes hot and enormously 93 (Carneros); $100. Hugely rich in fruit, an find and a good match for backyard barbecue. —V.B. high in alcohol, with simple, sweet Porty flavors that are overwhelmingly ripe wine that seduces the palate with overripe, and veer into raisins and prunes. —S.H. waves of cherries and raspberries whose fruity sweet- Fogline Vineyards 2009 Zinfandel (Dry ness is accented with smoky, caramelized oak. Crisp 85 Creek Valley); $24. Tough and gritty in tan- acidity and a bite of cool-climate tannins provide wel- nins, and pretty acidic, too, providing obvious structure SYRAH come balance to this block-designated wine from the to the briary wild berry flavors. It’s a bone-dry wine that estate vineyard. —S.H. Elyse 2007 Syrah (Napa Valley); $32. A needs grilled meats to give it a wakeup call. —S.H. 90 glamorous Syrah, rich and spicy, that feels lush Longoria 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley); $45. Tamás Estates 2008 Riserva Zinfandel (San and silky in the mouth. With a good of acidity for 93 For full vitality, it shows spicy flavors of red berries, cola and review see page 5. Cellar Selection. Francisco Bay-Livermore Valley); $27. A 85 bacon. The finish is especially nice, so clean, dry and very fruity, berry-filled Zin that’s reminiscent of straw- savory. Drink now. —S.H. Marimar Estate 2007 Doña Margarita berry pie, or maybe even shortcake. Very sweet, it still Vineyard Mas Cavalls Pinot Noir (Russian struggling for balance. —V.B. 93 Hoyt Family Vineyards 2006 Syrah (Califor- River Valley); $44. For full review see page 6. nia); $21. A good value for a red wine this Zucca 2009 Zinfandel (Amador County); 90 smooth and flavorful. Shows deep, spicy flavors of black- Roadhouse Winery 2009 Black Pinot Noir $24. 85 A very small production Amador Zinfandel berries, cherries and bacon, with a beautiful coating of 93 (Russian River Valley); $55. Some Pinots are that starts off stewy and muted, reminiscent of Dr. Pep- tannin. The grapes come from the Malibu area and from light and simple. This one’s light and wonderfully com- per, but smoothes itself out into a balanced, jammy and the Santa Ynez Valley. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. plex. It’s so translucent, the minerals of the earth seem satisfactory wine. —V.B. to be speaking through the fruit. Silky and delicate in Stickybeak 2008 Syrah (Napa County); the mouth, it conveys rich flavors of raspberries, cher- Andretti 2009 Zinfandel (Napa Valley); 88 $20. For full review see page 11. Editors’ ries, cinnamon and smoky sandalwood. Drink over the 84 $43. A dull wine, lacking zest, with extracted, Choice. next few years. —S.H. soft flavors of berries, currants, anise, milk chocolate and spices that turn overripe on the finish. Pretty Three Saints 2008 Syrah (Santa Ynez Val- Siduri 2009 Ewald Vineyard Pinot Noir expensive for what you get. —S.H. 85 ley); $18. Smells great, with complex scents of 93 (Russian River Valley); $44. For full review black pepper, bacon and ripe wild blackberries, just the see page 6. Benessere 2008 Estate Black Glass Vine- way Syrah should. But it turns soft and sweet in the 84 yard Zinfandel (Napa Valley); $28. A big mouth, with simple jam flavors. —S.H. Siduri 2009 Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot Noir disappointment, not up there with some previous vin- 93 (Sta. Rita Hills); $52. For full review see page 6. tages of this estate bottling. But the price has been low- Spelletich Cellars 2006 Reserve Syrah ered considerably on this simple wine. It’s unbalanced, 81 (Napa Valley); $25. Way too ripe, with Porty, Longoria 2009 Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot with some vegetal flavors. Ready now. —S.H. raisin and chocolate flavors that finish sweet. The tan- 92 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $45. A very fruity Pinot nins are fierce. —S.H. Noir, flamboyant in wild summer raspberry and cherry Bargetto 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel Zinfan- flavors. There’s an exotic spiciness, and earthy, forest 83 del (Lodi); $20. The Santa Cruz producer Bar- notes of pine needles and anise. A beautiful wine, dry getto ventures into Lodi to make this old-vine Zin and PINOT NOIR and silky, and capable of a few years of age. —S.H. unfortunately something gets lost in translation. The Marimar Estate 2007 Don Miguel Vine- TR Elliott 2008 Burgonet Pinot Noir (Russ- wine comes off a little bitter, like blackberries picked yard Cristina Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- ian River Valley); $42. This is a deeply fla- too soon. —V.B. 95 92 ley); $49. For full review see page 3. vored, earthy wine. You’ll find rich raspberry and cherry Klinker Brick Winery 2008 Old Vine Zin- fruit, but also a mushroomy taste, as well as intense Freeman 2009 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir baking spices. Impressively complex, it’s fairly tannic, fandel Zinfandel (Lodi); $18. Not showing 83 (Russian River Valley); $48. The vineyard is and seems immature. Give it 4–5 years in a good cellar. very well and smelling like sweet soda. Spring for 94 in the Green Valley, and the wine shows the beautiful Cellar Selection. —S.H. Klinker Brick’s 2008 Old Ghost instead, a much more acidity that always accompanies Pinots from this cool- stellar version of Lodi old-vine Zin, double the price climate region. The wine itself is enormously complex. TR Elliott 2008 Three Plumes Pinot Noir but worth every additional dollar. —V.B. It shows raspberry, cherry and rhubarb flavors, with 92 (Russian River Valley); $42. Made from three wild forest notes of balsam and chamomile tea. Bone selections of Pinot Noir and aged in one-year-old bar- Mettler Family Vineyards 2008 Epicenter dry, but enormously rich and savory, it will provide fine rels, this is a forward Pinot Noir, rich in raspberries, 83 Old Vine Zinfandel Zinfandel (Lodi); $20. drinking over the next eight years. —S.H. cherries, spicy bacon and smoky sandalwood flavors. It’s So incredibly big and meaty, this old-vine Zinfandel lists a dazzler, and best now for its youthful appeal. —S.H. itself at 15.8% alcohol and is indeed sweet but not Gloria Ferrer 2007 Pinot Noir (Carneros); jammy. —V.B. 94 $22. For full review see page 4. Alta Maria 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria 91 Valley); $28. For full review see page 8. Edi- One Hope 2008 Zinfandel (California); MacPhail 2009 Raye’s Hill Pinot Noir tors’ Choice. 83 $19. Rugged and harsh in the mouth, with very 94 (Anderson Valley); $49. A sweet, soft, har- modest berry flavors, and a touch of green, stemmy monious Pinot Noir. Feels so gentle in the mouth, it Claiborne & Churchill 2009 Twin Creeks mint. Not much richness, but it’s dry. Half the profits go hardly has any weight, yet it’s a very serious wine. The 91 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley); $36. A complex to charity. —S.H. flavors are enormous, suggesting ripe wild cherries, young Pinot Noir, high in mouthwatering acidity and

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 bone dry. The tartness gives the cherry and cranberry age, this Pinot tastes fresh as a daisy. Crisp in acidity MacPhail 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); fruit a refreshing sour candy taste. Not an ager, but give and silky in texture, it has ripe flavors of raspberries, 88 $39. Sweetly fruity and minty, with candied fla- it a good decant. —S.H. strawberries, cherries, cola and exotic spices. Could sur- vors of raspberries, cherries, Dr. Pepper cola and prise with some time in the cellar. —S.H. spices. There’s something so sweetly decadent, it tastes Donum Estate 2008 Estate Pinot Noir like white chocolate. But the acidity is brisk, and the 91 (Carneros); $65. From the Carneros vineyard, Goyette 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); wine is dry. Drink now. —S.H. this is a balanced, crisp Pinot Noir, with rich raspberry, 90 $24. Lots of power and richness in this young, cherry, red licorice and cola flavors, finished with sweet, vigorous Pinot Noir. With brisk acids and tannins, it Portola Vineyards 2008 Estate Pinot Noir caramelized oak and dusty spices. It’s a savory, elegant shows complex flavors of cherries, licorice, bacon, cola 88 (Santa Clara Valley); $38. A nicely balanced young wine for drinking now. —S.H. and Chinese Five Spice. Exotic and interesting, it Pinot Noir from an unlikely spot––Portola Valley, on should develop over the next 3–4 years. —S.H. the western side of Highway 280 across from Stanford Donum Estate 2008 Estate Pinot Noir University––and a newish small producer. It’s on the 91 (Russian River Valley); $65. A big, rich, flashy Longoria 2009 Lovely Rita Pinot Noir (Sta. bigger side of the Pinot spectrum but has admirable Pinot Noir, softly sweet and fruity in raspberries, cher- Rita Hills); $32. A lovely Pinot Noir that’s rich texture and cherry and earth aromas. Only 130 cases ries, sandalwood and spices. A hint of tannins and crisp 90 and soft and drinkable now. It’s a little heavier than made. Worth trying to see what unconventional areas acidity provide the balance for good structure. Best Longoria’s vineyard-designated Pinots, but less expen- can do with the variety. —V.B. over the next few years for youthful freshness. —S.H. sive, too, with flashy cherry, raspberry, cola and spice flavors, touched with oak. —S.H. Roadhouse Winery 2009 Yellow Pinot Noir Freeman 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River 88 (Russian River Valley); $44. A little one- Valley); $44. Lots of sweet, spicy fruit flavor in 91 Roadhouse Winery 2009 Purple Pinot Noir dimensional, but it’s a very clean, elegant wine, with this flamboyant Pinot Noir. It flatters with a rich burst of (Russian River Valley); $48. drily subtle cherry, Dr. Pepper cola and sandalwood fla- caramelized oak and buttered cinnamon toast, but the 90 A bit sharp in acidity, with a bite right down the middle, but elegant vors. Nicely tannic, with a cherryskin bitterness. Drink real star is the cherry, raspberry, star anise and pome- it now. —S.H. granate flavor. Acidity and tannins provide welcome and silky in mouthfeel and dry. Rich in flavor, too, offer- ing waves of cherry, pomegranate, cola, persimmon and structure. The blend is from vineyards from both cooler Robert Mondavi 2009 Pinot Noir (Napa red plum fruit. Drink now. —S.H. and warmer parts of the valley. Now–2015. —S.H. 88 Valley); $26. This is a gentle, soft Pinot Noir, dry and silky, offering classic flavors of cherries, rasp- Fritz 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian Claiborne & Churchill 2008 Pinot Noir berries, spices and smoky oak, housed in a good struc- River Valley); $50. For full review see page 9. 89 (Edna Valley); $25. Lots of sweet raspberry 91 ture of tannins. It’s a lovely wine to drink now with and cherry flavors in this soft, delicious wine. It delivers steak or lamb. —S.H. Gloria Ferrer 2006 Gravel Knob Vineyard plenty of pleasure, and is priced fairly for the quality. Pinot Noir (Carneros); $40. Drink it now. —S.H. 91 Lots of sweet, Andretti 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros); $43. ripe raspberry and cherry fruit in this attractive young A big Pinot Noir, extracted and thick in cherry Pinot Noir. It has a rich, spicy finish, and is balanced in Joseph Jewell 2008 Appian Way Vineyards 87 and blueberry pie filling, red currant, sandalwood and crisp Carneros acidity. Delicious and savory, it’s best Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $45. An 89 dusty spice flavors. Delicious, but soft and atypical for a now. —S.H. ambitious wine, showing good structure and uplifted Pinot, lacking some life and charm. Drink now. —S.H. fruit. The flavors of cherries, pomegranates, persim- MacPhail 2009 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot mons, cola and cedar are very rich and deep, showing C&B 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian Noir (Sonoma Coast); $49. Shows the acidity earthy notes of mushrooms and minerals. Given the 91 River Valley); $19. Briary and ripe, this Pinot and minerality of this cool-climate vineyard, which is in firm tannins, you might want to age this young wine for 87 has wild cherry, raspberry and cola flavors, finished with the Petaluma Gap region, well south of the Russian three or four years. This is a brand to watch. —S.H. River. Like most Pinots from it, MacPhail’s is very rich dusty, sweet Indian spices. It’s a big, rich wine, if not particularly complex. Drink now. —S.H. and forward in jammy red fruit and spice flavors. It’s Siduri 2009 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir luscious, and seems best opened by 2013. —S.H. 89 (Santa Lucia Highlands); $48. Flashy, jammy Gauthier 2009 Rockin’ H Ranch Vineyards raspberry and cherry fruit marks this vibrant Pinot Noir. Siduri 2009 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $29. 87 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $30. Big and It’s just yummy, and made bright and clean with zingy 91 For full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. full-bodied for a Pinot Noir, almost like a Grenache in acidity. Seems best now for its sheer youthful razzle its rich cherry and red currant power. It’s a good wine, dazzle, so drink up. —S.H. TR Elliott 2008 Queste Pinot Noir (Russian delicious in its own way, but an outlier for a Sonoma River Valley); $42. Coast Pinot Noir. —S.H. 91 A generous, feminine Pinot Folk Machine 2009 The Crooner Pinot Noir Noir, so softly fresh and fruity, it should be opened now. (Potter Valley); $28. A very good Pinot Noir There’s a meaty, mushroomy edge to the raspberry and 88 Gloria Ferrer 2006 José S. Ferrer Selection out of Potter Valley, one of inland Mendocino’s cooler cherry fruit, as well as elaborately sweet new oak and 87 Pinot Noir (Carneros); $35. Lots of ripe, for- spots, made by Kenny Likitprakong, who also makes exotic spice flavors. —S.H. ward raspberry and cherry fruit in this savory wine, with the Hobo and Banyan wines. This cinnamon and red a mushroomy, funky complexity. It’s soft and likeable Donum Estate 2008 West Slope Pinot Noir cherry-tinged Pinot opens up with aplomb, getting now for the sweet fruit and crisp acidity. —S.H. 90 (Carneros); $85. Massively rich and ripe in more and more Burgundian in nose as it goes and at cherry fruit flavor. There’s even a hint of overripeness in 13.5% alcohol, will get you pleasantly through a meal. Hanna 2008 Proprietor Grown Pinot Noir the red currants and ruby Port opulence, but not too —V.B. 87 (Russian River Valley); $35. A bright, spicy, much, and the wine is thoroughly dry. Give this Pinot a briary young Pinot Noir. Direct in fruit, with raspberry, good decant, but it doesn’t seem like an ager. —S.H. Lost Canyon 2009 Goff-Whitton Vineyard cherry and rosehip tea flavors, it has a sweet edge of 88 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $45. caramelized oak, brightened with crisp acidity. Easy to Freestone 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Exceptionally ripe fruit flavors of blackberry and cherry like for drinking now. —S.H. 90 Coast); $55. For full review see page 10. jam are brightened with crisp acidity in this dry, exoti- cally spicy Pinot Noir. It’s fine and silky in the mouth, Hook & Ladder 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian Gloria Ferrer 2006 Rust Rock Terrace Pinot with a brace of tannins. Drink over the next few years. 87 River Valley); $25. A fruit forward Pinot Noir, 90 Noir (Carneros); $40. Nearing five years of —S.H. rich and buttery-sweet in raspberry, strawberry, cherry

WineMag.com | 57 BUYING I GUIDE and ripe red plum jam, with an oaky veneer. Drink this Shows candied raspberry, cherry and blackberry flavors. Tamás Estates 2008 Barbera Riserva (San pleasurable wine now for its freshness. —S.H. Nice with a lamb cheeseburger. —S.H. 91 Francisco Bay-Livermore Valley); $28. A charmingly seductive small lot from Tamas, a sister Morgan 2009 Twelve Clones Pinot Noir Taft Street 2008 Pinot Noir (Russian River brand of Wente in the Livermore Valley. The wine has 87 (Santa Lucia Highlands); $32. A little off in 85 Valley); $24. Smells ashy, but gets better as it tremendous aromas of violet and oak that evolve into texture, with a grainy mouthfeel that’s part tart acids airs, showing ripe, flashy raspberry fruit and a coating of blackberry and cherry flavors, all dry and elegant at the and part edgy tannins. However, it’s lusty in forward sweet oak. —S.H. end. Made from 88% Barbera and 12% Petite Sirah, cherry and raspberry fruit flavors, and will surely satisfy serve this one with grilled meat. —V.B. many Pinotphiles. —S.H. Castle Rock 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros); 84 $14. Pretty fierce in acidity, making this wine C.G. di Arie 2008 Barbera (Sierra Foothills); O’Connor 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River almost sour. That tartness is partially balanced by cherry 89 $24. Closed and tight upon opening, once this 87 Valley); $35. Made in a rich, softly sweet style, jam and oak flavors. —S.H. Barbera is given time to open it has great mouthfeel, this Pinot has flamboyant, decadent flavors of raspberry subtle at first and then explosive on the midpalate with and cherry jam, accented with cocoa and anise. It’s a Castle Rock 2009 Pinot Noir (Central tart cherry and chocolate carrying through to the finish. delicious, approachable wine for drinking now. —S.H. 84 Coast); $13. Here’s a rustic, everyday Pinot —V.B. Noir, but it’s dry and silky, with some good cherry, san- Three Saints 2008 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria dalwood and spice flavors. Nothing terribly compli- Easton 2008 Monarch Mine Vineyard Bar- 87 Valley); $24. Grown in a single vineyard, this cated, but a decent sipper. —S.H. 89 bera (Sierra Foothills); $25. Rich, full and Pinot Noir exhibits the brisk acidity and clove spice of earthy with a bright hit of dark cherry juiciness and a Santa Maria Valley. It’s very ripe, with jammy cherry, Rockroom Winemaking Cooperative 2009 bracing backbone of acidity, for lovers of Barbera or sweet cola and vanilla sandalwood flavors. Drink this 84 Amber Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russ- those looking to try an American version for the first forward wine now. —S.H. ian River Valley); $44. Excessive sharpness mars this time, this is the place to start. —V.B. wine. It’s tart to the point of sour. Too bad, because it Windsor Sonoma 2009 Pinot Noir (Russ- has a nice, silky texture and savory raspberry and cherry Renwood 2008 Red Label Barbera (Sierra ian River Valley); $30. Rich and soft and silky, 87 flavors. —S.H. Foothills); $12. The Sierra Foothills stalwart, a nice Pinot for drinking now. Flatters for its wealth of 87 Renwood is still making good wines and this affordable raspberries, cherries, persimmons, cola, spices and san- Stephen Vincent 2009 Pinot Noir (Califor- Barbera is a prime example, fruit-forward and satisfy- dalwood. —S.H. 84 nia); $15. Pretty much as good as a Pinot with a ingly true to the grape’s reputation for cherry flavors statewide appellation gets. It’s dry and simple in struc- and high acidity. Two bottles tried, with considerable Donovan-Parke 2009 Pinot Noir (Califor- ture, with modest cherry, herb and spice flavors. —S.H. variation between them. —V.B. 86 nia); $17. Pretty good Pinot Noir for the price. Shows classic varietal flavors of cherries, raspberries Sorelle Winery 2009 Belleza Fra Barbera and Dr. Pepper, with a sweet edge of smoky oak. Enjoy- SANGIOVESE (Lodi); $25. A nice, lower-alcohol (14.1%) able now for its forward fruit and silky texture. —S.H. 87 alternative to the world of big California Barbera. This Bella Luna 2009 Estate Sangiovese (Paso Mercy 2009 Griva Vineyard Pinot Noir one, from Lodi’s Sorelle, has aromas reminiscent of Robles); $40. An interesting interpretation of (Arroyo Seco); $38. Bone dry and tart, with a 88 sweet flowers. The wine is juicy and bright, packaged 86 Sangiovese. It’s dry and quite high in acidity, with a tart real bite. Technically, the acidity isn’t terribly high, but well but suffers from a touch of bitterness on its finish. mouthfeel framing intense flavors of cherries, tobacco, for whatever reason the wine tastes sharp. The cherry —V.B. red licorice and tingly pepperspice. The texture is as flavors have pretty mushroom and mineral complexi- light and delicate as a Pinot Noir. Drink now. —S.H. Perry Creek 2009 Altitude: 2401, Amorata ties. —S.H. 84 Barbera (El Dorado); $19. A rustic Barbera Fog Head 2009 Highland Series Reserve Benessere 2007 Estate Sangiovese (Napa from El Dorado with soft, dry tannins and not a lot else Valley); $28. 85 Pinot Noir (Monterey); $15. Soft and a little 87 Soft, light in body and easy to going on. —V.B. sweet, this fresh young Pinot Noir has cherry, raspberry drink, this Sangiovese, from the Napa estate vineyard, is and mocha flavors. It’s fattened up with a splash of delicious in raspberry, red currant, licorice, bacon and Bella Luna 2008 Lot One Barbera (San Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. —S.H. spice flavors. It’s somewhat ephemeral, an instantly 82 Benito County); $38. Frankly sweet, with pleasant wine to drink especially with cured meats, overripe raisin, blackberry jam and chocolate flavors, Mercy 2009 Zabala Vineyard Pinot Noir olives, hard cheeses. —S.H. wrapped into heavy tannins. High alcohol gives it a hot, 85 (Arroyo Seco); $38. This Pinot is quite tart, prickly finish. —S.H. giving the cherry and cola flavors a sweet and sour Ticket Cellars 2008 Standing Ovation San- candy taste. It’s nicely dry and spicy, but that acidity 83 giovese (Santa Barbara County); $35. A Renwood 2008 Estate Barbera (Shenan- really cuts. —S.H. soft, simple wine, with candied cherry and raspberry 81 doah Valley); $25. Muted, bitter and sour, this flavors. It has a sweet finish. Drink now. —S.H. Renwood Barbera, meant to be its better offering, is Mossback 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River not as good as its larger-release Red Label version and 85 Valley); $25. Sharp in acidity, and not entirely double the price. —V.B. ripe, with a wintergreen mint zest to the cherries. BARBERA Needs a rich, well-marbled steak to soften it. —S.H. Villa Andretti 2009 Barbera (California); Easton 2008 Cooper Ranch Barbera 81 $33. A harsh, disagreeable wine. So high in One Hope 2009 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco); 91 (Shenandoah Valley); $24. With a prettier acidity, it’s sour, and the finish is sweet and hot. —S.H. 85 $24. A simple Pinot Noir, light-bodied and nose than Easton’s smaller-production Monarch Mine spicy, with some nice cherry-raspberry flavors. Half the Vineyard Barbera, this one from the Shenandoah’s winery’s profits go to children’s hospitals. —S.H. Cooper Ranch has violets and red cherry and a teasing OTHER RED WINES tartness on the finish, with fine texture and balance Stickybeak 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma throughout. Juicy, well-made and exhibiting its time Chiarito 2007 Estate Bottled Nero d’Avola 85 Coast); $20. A simple, rather sweet Pinot Noir. spent in oak. —V.B. 91 (Mendocino); $36. For full review see page 9.

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Bella Luna 2008 Tempestuous Expression 38 2009 Gap’s Crown Vineyard inland Mendocino, the wine has lots of green apple, 87 (San Benito County); $35. Like most Cali- 90 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); $45. Similar custard and key lime, is easy-drinking and straightfor- fornia Tempranillos, this one’s dry, acidic and rich in to the 2008, a very rich, ripe, flamboyant Chardonnay, ward with clearly no oak influence and a noticeable fin- red cherry fruit, cola and beef jerky flavors. It’s a pleas- potent in tropical fruit flavors elaborated with smoky ish. Definitely clean and crisp. —V.B. ant wine, with a silky, light mouthfeel. Try as an inter- oak. It’s fat and sweet, but balanced with a tangy layer esting alternative to Pinot Noir. —S.H. of minerals. Drink now. —S.H. Fog Head 2009 Highland Series Chardon- 88 nay (Monterey); $13. The best Chardonnay Fogdog 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma from this brand so far. With crisp, clean acidity, it shows ROSÉ 90 Coast); $35. Another rich Chardonnay from rich layers of tropical fruits and pears, with a stony min- Fogdog, which has a great track record. Crisp in coastal erality. Tastes fat and sweet in the middle, but finishes Bella Luna 2010 Piccolo Rosso Rosé (Cali- acidity, it’s enormously rich in pineapple, lime, buttered dry and zesty. Best Buy. —S.H. 86 fornia); $26. Made from Sangiovese and Bar- toast, crème brûlée and cinnamon spice flavors. Very bera, this blush wine is forward and jammy in elaborate and opulent, a wine to drink with lobster, scal- Frei Brothers 2009 Reserve Chardonnay raspberries, strawberries, sweetened herb tea and cin- lops, grilled tuna. —S.H. 88 (Russian River Valley); $20. Good price for namon spice. Crisp acidity fortunately provides clean an elegant Chardonnay with such richness. The pineap- Maldonado 2008 Los Olivos Vineyard balance. It’s a nice wine to drink this summer with ham, ple, lime and smoky oak flavors have a caramelized Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $36. For full fruit, hots dogs, burgers. —S.H. 90 sweetness, but acidity is brisk, and there’s a fine miner- review see page 10. ality that makes the wine finish dry. —S.H. Benessere 2010 Rosato (Napa Valley); $16. Steven Kent 2008 Merrillie, Landucci Block 84 This is a simple, sweet blush wine, with jammy Lava Cap 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (El Chardonnay (Livermore Valley); $30. Dorado); $18. raspberry, vanilla and white sugar flavors. With nice 90 88 Dark gold with a big, opulent Golden-colored, Steven Kent’s Merrillie Landucci nose, this is a rich, creamy, hedonistic Chardonnay from acidity, it will wash down salty, umami-flavored foods, Block is a tiny-production (94 cases) Chardonnay that’s like ham, sausages, roasted nuts, olives. —S.H. Lava Cap that stands up to its oaky style with, well, intense and austere, even shy at first, barrel-fermented style. Lemon zest, toffee and even a whiff of charcu- and left sur lie for 18 months. As it opens, apple, baked terie emanate from its big bones. —V.B. CHARDONNAY bread and caramel aromas and flavors develop. This wine, rich and well-structured as it is, will benefit from Lost Canyon 2009 Ruxton Vineyard another 3–5 years of rest. Cellar Selection. —V.B. Marimar Estate 2007 Don Miguel Vine- 88 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $30. Smoky sweet oak and elaborately ripe fruit combine to 95 yard Dobles Lias Chardonnay (Russian Tyler 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardon- make this Chardonnay instantly appealing. With River Valley); $45. For full review see page 3. nay (Santa Maria Valley); $36. Quite a 90 pineapple and pear jam, buttered toast and caramel fla- good, rich Chardonnay, showing classic cool-climate, vors, it’s brightened with vital acidity. —S.H. Bjornstad 2008 Ritchie Vineyard Chardon- long-hangtime flavors of pineapple, citron and white nay (Russian River Valley); $40. Zesty acidity peach, with a coating of sweet oak. Shows once again 92 Mercy 2009 Griva Vineyard Chardonnay and the flavors of green apples, pears and mangoes how perfectly the Bien Nacido Vineyard ripens (Arroyo Seco); $30. Massively ripe fruit and combine to make this Chardonnay attractive and food Chardonnay. —S.H. 88 brisk, zesty acidity are the hallmarks of this wine, which friendly. It has a creamy smokiness that adds to the comes from the western benches of the Salinas Valley. richness. Drink it now with elaborate shellfish dishes. Expression 38 2009 Goldrock Ridge Vine- It’s enormous in tangerine fruit, with a firm minerality —S.H. 89 yard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); $45. Sweet in caramelized oak and vanilla, with ripe pineap- that comes from the big rocks that gird the soil. A friendly, impressive Chard to drink now. —S.H. Marimar Estate 2009 Acero Unoaked ple tart, guava fruit and honey flavors, this Chardonnay Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $29. is pretty sweet. But it’s saved by crisp acidity and a good 92 Paul Dolan 2009 Chardonnay (Mendocino Editors’ Choice. scour of minerals. —S.H. For full review see page 8. 88 County); $18. For full review see page 11. Guenoc 2009 Chardonnay (Lake County); Kimmel 2009 Chardonnay (Mendocino Robert Mondavi 2009 Chardonnay (Napa County); $32. 89 $14. For full review see page 13 Best Buy.. 91 A big boy out of Mendocino 88 Valley); $19. Lots of modern, New World elab- County’s tiny Kimmel Vineyards that’s intense, creamy, Patianna Organic Vineyards 2009 Estate oration in this rich Chardonnay, with tropical fruit, pear, layered and hugely voluptuous, clearly well made with Vineyards Chardonnay (Mendocino); $17. peach and apple jam flavors. Oak adds even richer an acidic bite and long finish. Fewer than 400 cases 89 Tremendously pretty with honeysuckle and apricot notes of vanilla and buttered toast. The sweet finish is made, aged in 50% new French oak. —V.B. highlights and memorable texture as well as a bright, balanced by a scour of acidity and minerals. —S.H. crisp finish, this Chardonnay makes for a very good Alta Maria 2009 Alta Maria Vineyards food wine, its cool-climate grapes grown organically Valley of the Moon 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley); $28. For 90 along the banks of the Russian River. —V.B. 88 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $14. full review see page 10. For full review see page 11. Editors’ Choice. Ridge 2009 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Stainless 89 Mountains); $40. Grown on the Montebello El Roy 2009 Chardonnay (Alexander Val- 90 Unoaked Chardonnay (Central Coast); estate, this Chardonnay shows good acidity and a stony 87 ley); $18. If you know Chardonnays from the $18. So rich in flavor, you won’t miss the absence of minerality from the rocks and soil. It’s very ripe and for- Edna Valley, on California’s Central Coast, this tastes oak. The fruit carries the wine all by itself, offering ward in pineapple, orange and peach jam fruit, and while like one. It’s bright in acidity and forward in jammy waves of pineapples, limes, peaches, pears, apricots and only 10% of the mostly American barrels were new, it lime, kiwi and vanilla fruit, with a stony minerality. It’s a vanilla bean. Zesty Central Coast acidity makes the also tastes quite oaky and sweet in caramel. A flamboy- pretty wine to drink now. —S.H. mouthfeel crisp and brilliant. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ant, sweetly flashy wine for drinking now. —S.H. Expression 38 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma Concannon 2009 Conservancy Chardon- Rivino 2009 Estate, Schrader Ranch 87 Coast); $30. Deliciously ripe and forward in 90 nay (Livermore Valley); $15. For full review 89 Chardonnay (Mendocino); $22. A non- pineapple, tangerine and peach flavors, this Chardon- see page 13. Best Buy. oaked, non-ML Chardonnay from a new producer in nay also has winemaker elaborations of buttered toast

WineMag.com | 59 BUYING I GUIDE and sweet, smoky oak. It’s made in the popular style, apples and pineapples, with a touch of oak and some burst of acidity for balance. A rich, spicy New World- rich, honeyed and flamboyant. —S.H. firm minerality. Zesty acidity provides balance. —S.H. style Chardonnay for drinking now. —S.H.

Fontanella 2009 Chardonnay (Mount Robledo 2008 Chardonnay (Los Carneros); Donovan-Parke 2010 Chardonnay (Califor- 87 Veeder); $30. An eccentric wine that will 87 $38. A rich wine, flamboyant and generous, but 85 nia); $12. Sweet and tart, like a fruit juice drink appeal to some with exotic tastes. The tropical fruit, there’s too much oak. It reeks of butterscotch, caramel, you buy in the supermarket that’s a blend of pineapples, Asian pear and melon flavors are drying out, reverting crème brûlée and vanilla flavors. Underneath all that is peaches and mangoes, with a kick from alcohol. Simple, to cashew nuts, herbs and minerals. With crisp acidity, fine good pineapple and pear fruit. —S.H. but this is a good price for a wine that will please many this Chardonnay is headed into interesting, offbeat Chard fans. —S.H. places. —S.H. Shiloh Road 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma 87 County); $17. Lots of tropical fruit, pear, Fenestra 2009 Chardonnay (Livermore Val- Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Director’s Cut peach, green apple, vanilla, honey and creamy flavors in 85 ley); $16. A flowery, middle of the road 87 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $21. this Chardonnay. Also lots of zesty acidity, which bright- Chardonnay with baked sour apple and citrus predom- Rich and sweet in pineapples, limes, kiwi fruit, honey ens the flavors and makes the wine finish clean. Drink it inating, it’s fine at the price and a reasonable mid-week and caramelized oak, but bracing acidity and a firm now. —S.H. option with roast chicken. —V.B. minerality prevent it from being a mere fruit bomb. Drink now. —S.H. Stephen Vincent 2009 Chardonnay (Cali- Fritz 2009 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- 87 fornia); $12. Showing oaky flavors of vanilla 85 ley); $25. On the sweet side, with sugary, Freeman 2009 Ryo-Fu Chardonnay (Russ- and buttered toast, this Chardonnay has the brisk acid- jammy pineapple, tangerine and vanilla flavors. There’s 87 ian River Valley); $44. Similar to the 2006 ity of the Arroyo Seco appellation. The flavors are of a good bite of acidity, but the wine still tastes candied. vintage, this ’09 is rather sweet and candied in new oaky pineapples, oranges and limes. Best Buy. —S.H. —S.H. vanilla, buttered toast, honey and caramel flavors. Underneath is plenty of ripe citrus and tropical fruit. Armida 2010 Chardonnay (Russian River Mayacamas 2008 Chardonnay (Mount The sweetness detracts from what otherwise is a fine, 86 Valley); $20. Simple and sweet, this Chard 85 Veeder); $30. Tastes old and tired, losing fruit crisp, minerally wine. —S.H. charms with pineapple, tangerine, Meyer lemon, but- and turning herbal, nutty and earthy, with dried apricot tered toast and cinnamon spice flavors. It’s not espe- and orange flavors. Interesting from a connoisseur’s Handley 2008 Chardonnay (Dry Creek Val- cially complex, but will dazzle Chardophiles who want point of view, but it’s hard to tell why Mayacamas held 87 ley); $20. Modest, with citrus, spice and richness and oak. —S.H. back this wine for so long. —S.H. tobacco flavors, but nicely dry and crisp in acidity. You’ll find tantalizing flavors of oranges, bananas, green mel- Backhouse 2010 Chardonnay (California); Seven Heavenly Chards 2010 Chardonnay ons and figs. A polished wine to drink now. —S.H. 86 $7. For full review see page 14. Best Buy. 85 (Lodi); $14. From the Seven Deadly Zins folks, a sweet, oaky Chardonnay with honeysuckle, apricot Handley 2009 Chardonnay (Anderson Val- HB 2009 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- and vanilla slathered all over its full body. —V.B. 87 ley); $20. Ripe and full-bodied in pineapple, 86 ley); $18. With zesty acidity, this Chardonnay’s lemon, pear and green apple flavors, this Chardonnay ripe pineapple, green apple and pear fruit flavors are William Hill Estate 2008 Bench Blend also shows a good coating of oak, as well as a blast of balanced with a clean scour. It’s a little sweet and direct, 85 Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $35. Shows all acidity. It’s not terribly complicated, but clean and brisk, a wine to drink now. —S.H. the hallmarks of the modern style of Chardonnay, with and the price isn’t bad. —S.H. lots of ripe citrus and oak. The wine has too much oak, Lucky Star 2009 Chardonnay (California); though, and is dominated by caramelized wood and Hestan 2008 Chardonnay (San Francisco 86 $9. Easy to like for its dry, clean Chardonnay sweet vanilla flavors that swamp the fruit. —S.H. 87 Bay); $50. Rich and showy, but a little too personality, and at this price, a great bargain. Shows strong in everything, showing flamboyant tropical fruit, polished tangerine, lemon chiffon, vanilla and buttered Barefoot NV Chardonnay (California); $7. caramelized oak, butterscotch and sweet vanilla cream toast flavors, in a creamy texture. Best Buy. —S.H. 84 When you factor in the price, this is a great flavors. It’s all quite delicious, but the wine ultimately value. Available just about anywhere in the U.S., it lacks subtlety and distinction, especially at this price. Main & Geary 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma shows decent Chardonnay fruit, and is dryish and crisp. —S.H. 86 County); $15. Lots of ripe pineapple and tropi- —S.H. cal fruit flavors in this direct, one-dimensional wine. Lots Michael Bernard 2009 Orsi Vineyard of oak, too, with a veneer of buttered toast and vanilla. Castle Rock 2010 Barrel Fermented 87 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $25. Easy to find, with 10,000 cases produced. —S.H. 84 Chardonnay (Central Coast); $10. Simpl and This is a rich, oaky Chardonnay, filled with upfront fla- rather sweet, but balanced with zesty acidity and miner- vors of tropical fruits, buttercream, vanilla and toast. Matchbook 2009 Old Head Chardonnay ality. The flavors are of honey, pineapples and ripe nec- It’s made in the modern, appealing style to drink now. 86 (Dunnigan Hills); $15. Muted at first, this tarines. —S.H. —S.H. 30,000-case production Chardonnay slowly develops tart, tropical aromas, then bits of apricot, vanilla and Heliodoro 2009 Chardonnay (Russian Morro Bay 2009 Split Oak Estates oak. It’s aged in “Old Heads” (barrels from past vin- 84 River Valley); $18. Tastes constructed and 87 Chardonnay (California); $12. For full tages) and is a good-enough value for the price. —V.B. manipulated, with sugary-sweet pineapple and mango review see page 14. Best Buy. flavors and an acidity that seems unnaturally tart. Fin- Mercy 2009 Zabala Vineyard Chardonnay ishes with a candy, granola sweetness. —S.H. Paradise Ridge 2009 Nagasawa Vineyard 86 (Arroyo Seco); $30. Showing oaky flavors of 87 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $30. vanilla, butterscotch and buttered toast, this Chardon- Hoyt Family Vineyards 2008 Malibu Delicious and sweet in caramel, vanilla, pineapple jam, nay has the brisk acidity of the Arroyo Seco appella- 84 Chardonnay (California); $29. A simple, tangerine, lime and butterscotch flavors, this dramatic tion. The flavors are of pineapples, oranges and limes. sweet Chardonnay, jammy and sugary in pineapples, Chardonnay is made to drink now. —S.H. —S.H. tangerines and vanilla. This candied wine is made in the popular style. —S.H. Robert Hall 2010 Chardonnay (Paso Rob- Midnight Cellars 2009 Estate Chardonnay 87 les); $22. Lots to like in this rich, creamy 86 (Paso Robles); $18. Sweet and fruity in One Hope 2009 Chardonnay (California); Chardonnay. It has very ripe flavors of oranges, green orange, pineapple, pear and lime flavors, with a good 84 $19. With underlying pineapple and lime fruit,

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 this wine is overoaked. It’s all about buttered toast, Shows the dryness, acidity and minerality that always caramel and butterscotch flavors, saved by crisp acidity. /GRIGIO mark this Sauvignon Blanc, which is from the vineyard —S.H. directly behind the Oakville winery. The flavors are lean Horse & Plow 2010 Filigreen Farm Pinot and elegant, suggesting citrus fruits and Asian pears, Spelletich Cellars 2008 Reserve Chardon- 91 Gris (Anderson Valley); $20. Made from with a hint of tart, sour gooseberry. An elegant wine to 84 nay (Napa Valley); $27. Heavy on the oak, organic grapes, Horse & Plow’s Pinot Gris is earthy and drink as an appetizer. —S.H. austere, with finely honed acidity and lovely hints of with overpowering buttered toast and butterscotch fla- apricot. Very balanced, dry, a tremendous version of Casey Flat Ranch 2009 Sauvignon Blanc vors. Underneath all that are pineapple and peach fla- this white wine. —V.B. (Capay Valley); $23. An invitingly rich, vors. The finish is sweet and heavy. —S.H. 90 golden, inaugural Sauvignon Blanc from Casey Flat in Longoria 2010 Pinot Grigio (Santa Barbara the Capay Valley, a small growing region nudged Stickybeak 2009 Chardonnay (Russian County); $19. 90 Longoria’s best Pinot Grigio yet, between Napa and Sacramento that shows off its moun- River Valley); $17. A heavy-handed Chardon- 84 and one of the better ones out there. It’s wonderfully tain tannins and concentration. Blended with 7% Viog- nay, sugary sweet in granola pear, pineapple, roasted clean and crisp, with rich, spicy flavors of citrus fruits, nier, the wine has pear and pineapple aplenty, and a nut, honey, butterscotch and vanilla cream flavors. flowers, vanilla and honey. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. lingering finish. —V.B. Everything’s good except that excessive sweetness, Benessere 2009 Pinot Grigio (Carneros); which makes the finish common. —S.H. Joseph Jewell 2009 Redwood Ranch $22. Just a touch of oak adds a welcome creamy 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander Valley); $24. smokiness to this dry, crisply acidic wine. It’s superrich 90 Taft Street 2009 Chardonnay (Russian Another fine Sauvignon Blanc from Joseph Jewell. It’s in ripe lychee, Mandarin orange, sweet lime and spice 84 River Valley); $18. Marked by jammy citrus flavors. Refreshing and clean, it’s a nice cocktail sipper. dry and crisp in acidity, offering classic Sauvignon fla- and tropical flavors and crisp acidity, this is a standard —S.H. vors of citrus fruits, pears, lemongrass, minerals, spices, Chardonnay. It shows the oaky, caramelized notes that vanilla and toast, leading to a long, clean finish. A lovely Americans love in this most popular white wine. —S.H. Grands Amis Winery 2009 Mokelumne cocktail wine, at a fair price. —S.H. 87 River Pinot Grigio (Lodi); $15. Crisp and Tortoise Creek 2009 Jam’s Blend Chardon- fruity though a little woody and austere on the nose, Michael Bernard 2009 Sauvignon Blanc 84 nay (Lodi); $11. With a smooth texture and too, this Lodi Pinot Grigio is unoaked and not for every- 90 (Russian River Valley); $18. This delightful steely finish, this Chardonnay is on the more austere, one, but well made. —V.B. Sauvignon Blanc is unoaked, and did not undergo mal- lemon and melon side of things, but has a musty aroma olactic fermentation. The result is pure Russian River that struggles to off. —V.B. Noceto 2010 Pinot Grigio (Clarksburg); fruit, rich and spicy in pineapple, tangerine, grapefruit, 87 $15. With an intensity of almond paste and green apple and fig flavors, brightened with tangy acid- Zina Hyde Cunningham 2009 Chardonnay charcuterie at first sniff, this nice Pinot Grigio from the ity. Delicious and lively, a perfect wine for cocktails and Sangiovese specialists at Vino Noceto is light in color Asian fare. —S.H. 84 (North Coast); $28. Sourced predominantly but rich in mouthfeel, with a flowery, apricot flavor. Its from Russian River Valley vineyards, this tiny-produc- finish is smooth and a smidge sweet. —V.B. Occasio 2010 Del Arroyo Vineyard Sauvi- tion Chardonnay starts with the sweet aromas of vanilla 89 gnon Blanc (Livermore Valley); $18. For full and pear and continues to be very sweet throughout. Fenestra 2009 Pinot Gris (Livermore Val- review see page 11. Aged 10 months in 58% new French oak, the rest stain- 86 ley); $18. A delightful, simple sipper with apri- less steel. —V.B. cot, peach and pepper with a touch of honey that Robert Mondavi 2009 Dry Sauvignon finishes a bit sweet. —V.B. 89 Blanc Fumé Blanc (Napa Valley); $19. Not Sixteen by Twenty 2009 Chardonnay clear why the winery has to identify this on the front 83 (Sonoma Coast); $32. While this Chardonnay Château Julien 2010 Pinot Grigio (Mon- label as Sauvignon Blanc after all these years of calling is packed with ripe pineapple, pear and tropical fruit 85 terey County); $12. Made with a little it Fumé Blanc, but it’s an awfully good wine, especially and has decent acidity, it’s awkwardly sugary and raw. Gewürztraminer, this pretty white wine has citrus, flo- at this price. Dry and crisply acidic, it shows mouthwa- Tastes like Chinese sweet and sour sauce. The fruit is ral, peach, apricot, vanilla and spice flavors, offset with teringly clean flavors of citrus fruits, gooseberries and crisp acidity. It’s a nice wine for drinking as a cocktail or good, but the wine needs to be drier. —S.H. minerals. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. with passed around hors d’oeuvres. —S.H. The Crusher 2009 Wilson Vineyard Taft Street 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian Main & Geary 2010 Pinot Grigio (Califor- Chardonnay (Clarksburg); $13. River Valley); $16. A clean, bone-dry Sauvi- 83 People are nia); $13. A bit heavy, with ripe flavors of apri- 89 83 gnon Blanc with plenty of mouthwatering acidity to get starting to recognize Clarksburg, for growing some cots, pears and oranges. There’s a hint of sweetness. It’s those tastebuds whistling. It has polished flavors of amazingly flavorful and Albarino, but if it’s a rustic wine, but serve it cold at big parties and don’t lemons, limes, grapefruits, vanilla and white pepper. Chardonnay they want to grow, too, this wine won’t help worry. —S.H. Good value. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. make the case. From the Wilson Vineyard, it’s sweet and uncomplicated and tasting a bit burnt. —V.B. SAUVIGNON BLANC Trailhead 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley); $18. Polished and flavorful, and a good Windsor Sonoma 2009 Chardonnay (Russ- 89 Easton 2009 Monarch Mine Vineyard price for this wealth of creamy pineapples, limes and 83 ian River Valley); $22. Over the top in oak, a Sauvignon Blanc (Sierra Foothills); $18. A peaches. Really rich all the way through to the spicy clumsy attempt to lure in consumers with vanilla and 93 Sierra Foothills Sauvignon Blanc with incredibly invit- finish. —S.H. caramel flavors that have little to do with Chardonnay. ing aromatics of grass, grapefruit and melon that It’s already turning old and tired. —S.H. evolves into a delicious texture that’s light, dry and yet Mercy 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Arroyo still somehow rich with crisp acidity. So good for sum- 88 Seco); $16. Arroyo Seco whites always show Spell Wine 2008 Chardonnay (Napa Val- mer and fall. —V.B. brisk, clean acidity and dryness, and that’s just what 82 ley); $16. Overoaked and tired, a simple, sweet you’ll find in this juicy wine. It has stimulating flavors of Chardonnay with buttered popcorn and pineapple jam Robert Mondavi 2009 To Kalon Vineyard citrus fruits, minerals, vanilla and a pleasant tang of flavors. —S.H. 91 Reserve Fumé Blanc (Napa Valley); $40. white pepper. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 61 BUYING I GUIDE

Paul Dolan 2009 Made from Organically Hanna 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian vors of honey, apricots, tangerines and vanilla, even 88 Grown Grapes Sauvignon Blanc (Mendo- 84 River Valley); $19. Racy acidity gives this wine sautéed bananas. —S.H. cino County); $18. For full review see page 11. a clean, bracing mouthfeel. Then the fruit kicks in, filled with pineapples, green apples, lemons, limes and Rock Wall 2009 Viognier (Mendocino Sierra Vista 2010 Fumé Blanc (Sierra pears. But with a sugary finish, it could be drier. —S.H. 83 County); $18. With overpowering pineapple 88 Foothills); $16. Austere in aromatics, this and almost a flinty quality to its aroma, this wine is sim- lightly colored, almost-clear Fumé Blanc is rich in tex- Mayacamas 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Mount ply sweet. —V.B. ture and acidity, would pair well with a range of seafood 84 Veeder); $25. An odd Sauvignon Blanc. Tastes and is very good for the price. —V.B. tired and old, showing prematurely dried-out leafy apri- cot and sour lemon flavors. Seems like it would have WHITE BLENDS Clos du Lac 2010 Sauvignon Blanc been better a year ago. —S.H. 87 (Amador County); $10. For full review see Davis Family 2008 Cuvee Luke (Sierra page 14. Best Buy. Michael David 2010 Sauvignon Blanc 94 Foothills); $26. For full review see page 3. 84 (Lake County); $14. Very sweet-smelling, like Frog’s Leap 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Ruther- putting your nose in a bowl of sugar, followed by aro- Atrea 2009 The Choir White Wine (Men- 87 ford); $18. Shows the winery’s characteristic mas of ripe pineapple juice, this smooth Sauvignon 88 docino County); $20. Crafted from organi- green, tart gooseberry flavors and zesty acidity. There’s Blanc from the Michael David folks is sweet through cally certified Roussanne and Viognier grapes grown a richer streak of grapefruits and pineapples. It’s an ele- and through. —V.B. both by Saracina and other Mendocino County vine- gant wine whose low alcohol, below 13%, doesn’t pre- yards, this Rhône-style white blend has an inviting nose vent it from being dry. —S.H. One Hope 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Califor- of peach and jasmine with a good balance between rich- 84 nia); $19. Tastes like a sweet and sour sauce ness and acidity, a nice mingling of flavors and strong Mauritson 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry mixed into white wine, with pineapple, sugar and lime finish. Would pair nicely with a range of summertime 87 Creek Valley); $17. Bright, clean and zesty in flavors and an alcoholic buzz. —S.H. foods. —V.B. acidity, with exotic, slightly sweet flavors of lemongrass, citrus, Asian pear and juniper berries. It’s dry, clean and Three Clicks 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Murrieta’s Well 2009 The Whip (Livermore Valley); $20. spicy. The perfect California white wine to drink with 84 Too sweet, basically off-dry in 88 Valley); $19. For anyone who wants to walk Vietnamese, Cambodian and Chinese foods based on sugary orange, lime and kiwi flavors. Bracing acidity the walk of low-alcohol wines, this is a place to start, a pork, chicken or vegetables. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. helps provide balance, but it needs to be drier. —S.H. 12.5% alcohol blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Muscat Canelli, Gewürztraminer and Orange Windsor Sonoma 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Muscat all grown in the Livermore Valley. This wine (Russian River Valley); $15. A very nice wine VIOGNIER 87 has inviting notes of toffee, vanilla and caramel and will for the price. It’s bone dry and high in acidity, with a make a welcome companion at any backyard barbecue crisp tartness that’s just what you want in Sauvignon Terre Rouge 2009 Viognier (Shenandoah or casual dinner party. —V.B. Blanc. The flavors are pleasant, of oranges, citrons, 92 Valley); $25. A silky-smooth Viognier with limes and green apples. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. apricot and honey on the nose and taste that’s layered in Pine Ridge 2010 Chenin Blanc-Viognier flavors and textures and has an awesomely lingering fin- (California); $14. The perfect cocktail wine, ’s Secret 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ish without any of Viognier’s prediliction for oiliness. A 88 dryish and acidic, yet enormously rich in tangerine, (High Valley); $16. A clean, crisp Sauvignon fine example of Shenandoah Valley’s abilities for Rhône 86 peach, lime and honey flavors. So easy to like by itself, Blanc with a sweet, pineapple nose and flavors of whites. —V.B. yet will drink well with semisweet Chinese and Viet- mango and melon that finishes sweet. Made from vine- namese fare. —S.H. yards overlooking Clear Lake in the High Valley AVA, Terre Rouge 2009 Viognier (Fiddletown); 2,200 feet up in Lake County. —V.B. $25. With a sweet jasmine nose and steely acid- 91 Stickybeak 2009 Semillon-Sauvignon ity, this Viognier from Fiddletown, slightly east of the Blanc (Sonoma County); $17. Barefoot NV Sauvignon Blanc (California); Shenandoah Valley, is a touch sweeter on the palate 88 For full review 86 $7. For full review see page 14. Best Buy. though completely in balance, with a long finish and see page 11. great structure. —V.B. Conspire 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Ruther- Hoyt Family Vineyards 2009 Collage (Cali- fornia); $19. 86 ford); $28. With crisp, mouthwatering acidity, Holly’s Hill 2010 Viognier (El Dorado); $20. 85 Made from Pinot Gris, Viognier this Sauvignon Blanc has rich pineapple, lemon, green 86 A Sierra Foothills Viognier full of peach fuzz and Chardonnay, this is a simple little white wine, dry apple and honeysuckle flavors. It’s kind of candy sweet and honeysuckle with layered textures of honey and a and crisp in acidity, with pleasant citrus, floral and on the finish. —S.H. medium finish. —V.B. vanilla flavors. Drink it now. —S.H.

Paradise Ridge 2010 Grandview Vineyard Jaxon Keys 2009 Estate Viognier (Mendo- Naggiar 2009 La Contessa Sylvana (Sierra 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley); 86 cino County); $16. A light, easy Viognier 85 Foothills); $32. This Roussanne, Marsanne $20. The grapes are from one of the warmer parts of that’s not oily like some versions of this variety, but and Viognier blend is named for a cousin gifted in the the valley, and the wine is sweet and ripe in tangerine, pleasingly tropical, smelling of pineapple and guava art of matchmaking. It’s a touch sweet, a little closed apricot and vanilla flavors. Crisp acidity provides fortu- with ripe melon on the finish. —V.B. still, with notes of tar and caramel and the promise of nate balance to this likeable young wine. —S.H. lightly flavored apples and honeysuckle in the body of Naggiar 2009 Estate Viognier (Sierra the wine. —V.B. Silver Ridge 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali- 85 Foothills); $21. An austere Viognier with diesel 86 fornia); $12. For full review see page 12. and graphite aromas that delve into more pleasing apri- Naggiar 2009 Trois Demoiselles (Sierra cot midpalate, then drops off a bit on the finish. —V.B. 84 Foothills); $22. “The Three Young Kenwood 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Ladies”––Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne––don’t 85 County); $12. Here’s a clean, brisk Sauvignon Ticket Cellars 2008 Golden Ticket Viognier seem to be getting along in this golden-colored wine, Blanc for pairing with Asian fare. It’s spicy and overtly 85 (Russian River Valley); $29. This is a ticket to which tastes a bit closed and simple, not as lush as Nag- sweet, with lemongrass, honey and vanilla flavors. —S.H. a simple, sweet wine. It has a creamy texture, with fla- giar’s estate Viognier. —V.B.

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 from Bill Easton is rich and full, dry, with well-crafted Betz Family 2008 Clos de Betz (Columbia RIESLING acidity and balance throughout, a nod to its whole-clus- 94 Valley); $48. For full review see page 3. Cellar ter , aging sur lie and barrel fermentation. It Selection. Claiborne & Churchill 2008 Dry Riesling finishes with a taste of honey. —V.B. 89 (Central Coast); $18. A delightful Riesling, Doubleback 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon crisp in Central Coast acidity and with classic flavors of Fenestra 2009 Silvaspoons Vineyard 94 (Walla Walla Valley); $87. Not a lot of wood green apples, citrus fruits, honeysuckle flowers and a 88 Verdelho (Lodi); $15. This Livermore-based scents are showing, though the aging took place in pungent note of petrol. It straddles the border between producer continues to impress with a range of Spanish, roughly 50% new oak barrels. This has forward, pretty dry and off-dry, and is easy to like with Vietnamese and Italian and Portuguese whites. This Verdelho no excep- black fruits, juicy acids, some still-unresolved astrin- Cambodian fare. —S.H. tion, a grape that in Europe makes its way into Madeira. gency, and aromatically it incorporates a nice herbal note, reminiscent of green tea. Still too young to drink, Handley 2008 Riesling (Mendocino This Lodi-sourced version is a rich white with layers of texture on the diesel, flint and gravelly side of things and the rating could go higher with more bottle age. 88 County); $18. Milla Handley is attempting to Cellar Selection. —P.G. make an Alsatian-style wine that is indeed austere, with with plenty of acidity, kiwi notes and a long finish. —V.B. an almost almond-butter and earthy, mushroom nose Mark Ryan 2008 Water Witch (Red Moun- Claiborne & Churchill 2009 Dry Gewürz- that’s well balanced between acidity and tropical sweet- tain); $45. For full review see page 4. Cellar traminer (Central Coast); $18. Name a spice 94 ness and finishes smooth. A suggested pairing with 87 Selection. sushi is right on. —V.B. and it’s here, especially cinnamon and cloves, which give the tangerine and papaya flavors an exotic, tantaliz- Chateau Rollat 2007 Edouard de Rollat Barefoot NV Refreshingly Sweet Riesling ing taste. Acidity is fine and bright, and the finish treads Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley); (California); $7. 93 85 For full review see page 15. the line between dry and off dry. Drink now. —S.H. $62. For full review see page 5. Best Buy. Y Rousseau 2010 Old Vines Chateau Rollat 2007 Rollat Cabernet 87 (Russian River Valley); $18. Sweet and sour 93 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley); $38. For MOSCATO acidity marks this dry wine, made from a variety that’s full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. been out of fashion for decades. With just a touch of Noceto 2010 Frivolo Moscato (California); oak, its tart tangerine, citron, lemongrass and mineral Efesté 2008 Big Papa Old Block Cabernet $16. Like taking in a fresh bouquet of flowers 90 flavors star. Drink as an offbeat, low-alcohol alternative Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $49. For full just in bloom, this deliciously crafted Moscato Frivolo, 93 to Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. —S.H. review see page 5. Cellar Selection. slightly fizzy and superlatively refreshing, is a lovely sur- prise at just 7% alcohol and $16. Start your night off Gramercy Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- with a glass or let it guide you through a meal, serve WASHINGTON gnon (Columbia Valley); $45. A complex cold and take in its candied orange and jasmine amidst 93 nose shoots up aromas of dark berries, cassis, smoke, the bubbles. —V.B. CABERNETS & BLENDS earth and toast. The fruit is generous and open; it tastes Coastal Ridge 2010 Moscato (California); more like red berries than black. The acidity perfectly Leonetti Cellar 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon balances the fruit, and stretches out the flavors into a 86 $8. For full review see page 15. Best Buy. 98 (Walla Walla Valley); $85. For full review see smooth, nicely detailed finish. —P.G. Twisted 2010 Moscato (California); $8. For page 2. Editors’ Choice. Mark Ryan 2008 Long Haul (Red Moun- 84 full review see page 15. Best Buy. Rasa Vineyards 2008 Creative Impulse 93 tain); $45. For full review see page 6. Cellar 97 DuBrul Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- Selection. OTHER WHITE WINES Merlot (Yakima Valley); $95. For full review see page 2. Cellar Selection. Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Stone Tree Vine- Cameron Hughes 2009 Lot 240 Albariño 92 yard “1” Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke Slope); $48. 90 (Clarksburg); $11. For full review see page 12. Den Hoed 2007 Andreas Cabernet Sauvi- For full review see page 7. Cellar Selec- Best Buy. 96 gnon (Horse Heaven Hills); $80. For full tion. review see page 2. Editors’ Choice. Joseph Phelps 2010 Eisrebe Scheurebe Chateau Rollat 2007 Sophie de Rollat (Walla Walla Valley); $29. 90 (Napa Valley); $50. Made from the Scheurebe Leonetti Cellar 2008 Reserve (Walla Walla 92 For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. variety that Phelps has worked with for many years, this 96 Valley); $135. In comparison with the 2008 is an enormously sweet dessert wine. It tastes like apri- Cabernet, this is the bigger wine, less sleek, more Figgins 2008 Estate Red (Walla Walla Val- cot liqueur, tangerine jam and honeyed iced tea, with chewy. As it opens in the glass, the aromas display all kinds of spicy, buttery notes. Could be brisker in ley); $85. For full review see page 8. incense scents, and there is assertive, blocky, chewy 92 acidity, but it certainly flatters the sweet tooth. —S.H. fruit––especially black cherry. The tannins are also big- Animale 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Longoria 2010 Clover Creek Vineyard ger, blockier, more substantial than the Cabernet. With 91 Mountain); $28. One barrel made, from the hours of breathing time, exotic spices (saffron and 90 Albariño (Santa Ynez Valley); $23. From original Kiona vines. Deeply concentrated cassis and one of the best, most consistent Albariño producers in more) emerge. Cellar Selection. —P.G. raspberry fruit, tinged with bramble and brush, satu- the state, Longoria’s 2010 showcases brisk, clean acidity rates the palate. This is Cabernet raw and wild, from with plenty of flavor. Citrus fruits, melons, wildflowers, Betz Family 2008 Père de Famille Caber- old vines, with wonderful details of herbs and forest. A minerals, honey and spices flood the mouth, in a creamy 95 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $60. For unique wine, with tart and astringent tannins, but excel- texture. Try as a zesty alternative to Chardonnay. —S.H. full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. lent length. —P.G.

Terre Rouge 2009 Monarch Mine Vineyard Mark Ryan 2008 Dead Horse (Red Moun- Brian Carter Cellars 2007 Le Coursier 89 Roussanne (Sierra Foothills); $25. Pretty 95 tain); $45. For full review see page 3. Cellar 91 (Columbia Valley); $30. For full review see and floral while dark golden in color, this Roussanne Selection. page 8. Cellar Selection.

WineMag.com | 63 BUYING I GUIDE

Brian Carter Cellars 2006 Solesce (Yakima management, show excellent winemaking skills. Edi- Mercer Estates 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Valley); $50. For full review see page 8. Cellar tors’ Choice. —P.G. 88 (Columbia Valley); $24. This tastes like pure Selection. varietal Cabernet; it’s stiff and tightly wound, and the Waters 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- Horse Heaven Hills fruit has big, drying tannins. Give it Chateau Rollat 2008 Rollat Cabernet 91 bia Valley); $54. Pure Cabernet, ageworthy some breathing time and it begins to broaden out, 91 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley); $38. For wine. Right now it is quite tight, somewhat herbal and showing thin streaks of smoke and iron, along with full review see page 8. compact. The fruit is layered, a range from strawberry brambly berry and cassis. This has the structure to age, through cherry and into cassis, and it leads sharply into and should develop further in the bottle over the near Forgeron 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon spicy tannins with a clear edge. This cellarworthy wine term. —P.G. 91 (Columbia Valley); $30. Beautifully aromatic, will need considerable breathing time; or pop it in the this weaves exotic scents of coffee, smoke, black cherry, cellar for up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Saint Laurent 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon cassis, moist earth, lead pencil, and toffee into a lush 88 (Wahluke Slope); $31. Complex aromas open tapestry. Smooth, fruity, flavorful, soft and balanced, it Forgeron 2007 Vinfinity Reserve (Colum- into detailed black fruits, with broad streaks of coffee finishes with lightly grainy tannins that are as supple as 90 bia Valley); $46. A true Bordeaux-style blend and accents of iron. The fruit fades into some fairly leather. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. very dark in color, aroma, and flavor, with black cherry thick tannins, suggesting that a juicy steak would be the and cassis fruit dominating. At first it is sharp-edged right companion for this sturdy wine. —P.G. Gramercy Cellars 2009 Lower East Caber- and showing a slight bitterness, a bit like a Brunello, 91 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $32. This then slowly smoothes out with breathing. —P.G. Tempus Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is 90% Cabernet and 10% Merlot––juicy and sappy, a 88 (Columbia Valley); $32. An interesting wine generous burst of strawberries, raspberries, and red Nodland Cellars 2008 Bad Attitude Red blending old vine Sagemoor Cab with Red Mountain fruits, with plenty of spark and vitality. The clear, clean, 90 (Walla Walla Valley); $20. This is Merlot, Cab and Walla Walla Merlot. The result is a mélange of vivid fruit is the shining star here. —P.G. with a little Cab Franc and Malbec in the blend; fra- spices, herbs, brambly berries and chewy tannins. grant and soft, with incense and cinnamon in the nose There is a lot happening here, but (to quote Bob Dylan) JM Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red and the mouth. The fruit is dark–– blackberry and black “you don’t know what it is...” This needs time to see if it 91 Mountain); $38. It is smooth, supple, and pro- cherry––and the tannins lightly grainy. A nice toasty fin- will meld together. —P.G. portionate, though the astringent, earthy tannins are ish and a lick of espresso firm it up through the finish. Cave B 2008 Cuvée du Soleil (Columbia Val- holding back the fruit at the moment. It’s a deep, —P.G. ley); $45. A Bordeaux-style blend that is a barrel young, tight wine, layering lead pencil, moist loam, 87 Reasons 2008 The One Cabernet Sauvi- selection from estate fruit. The tannins are substantial rock, licorice and ground coffee with light red fruits. gnon (Horse Heaven Hills); $35. Broad and in all the Cave B reds, but particularly so here––thick Cellar Selection. —P.G. 90 fruity with a mix of purple and black berries and plums, and astringent to the point of chalky. There is interesting JM Cellars 2008 Longevity Red (Columbia softly toasty, and immediately approachable, it’s a fine depth and some high-toned red fruits. —P.G. wine for near term drinking. —P.G. Valley); $38. The blend includes all six Bor- 91 Cave B 2008 XXIII Cabernet Sauvignon deaux red grapes and is sourced from four vineyards in Chateau Rollat 2008 Sophie de Rollat (Columbia Valley); $35. Dusty scents of four different AVAs. But what could be a mish-mash is a 87 (Walla Walla Valley); $29. Broadly fruity, a cocoa, coconut and sandalwood speak to the barrel complex, fragrant, attractive red blend, that takes the 89 wash of berries and spice. The acids are still a little jar- aging. The toast and coffee notes overshadow the tart best of each vineyard and crafts a wine that uses them ring. The vintage is not as deep as the 2007, and the cassis fruit flavor, leading into drying tannins sharpened all wisely. It is totally a Washington take on a Bordeaux- wine shows a little heat in the finish. This tastes more with firm acidity and a high-toned finish. —P.G. style blend, with potent fruit flavors expanding the mid- like a press wine than the ’07, but it is nonetheless very palate. The herbal and earthy character of Bordeaux is well made. —P.G. Magnificent Wine Company 2009 Steak well represented, and whatever new oak the wine may 87 House Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia have seen is well in the background. —P.G. Soos Creek 2008 Artist Series #8 (Colum- Valley); $11. More fruit forward than most Washing- bia Valley); $28. Sappy and tart, with rasp- ton Cabs, it nonetheless has the structure and depth of Nodland Cellars 2007 Private Blend Red 89 berry and cassis fruit concentrated within a shell of pricier wines. Blackberry, black cherry, cassis and coffee (Columbia Valley); $28. 91 This Bordeaux blend astringent tannins. Coffee and licorice highlights from swirl into a substantial finish. Tannins are tight and add is dappled with pretty, sweet, toasty oak, but with the the barrel aging bring added interest to the finish. Give just enough depth, while the riveting acidity and mod- gentle red fruits showing through also. Not a huge wine, this one plenty of breathing time. —P.G. erate alcohol make this more of a Bordeaux than a Cal- but a delight, supremely drinkable, with tasty toasty oak ifornia style. Best Buy. —P.G. and light herb the immediate highlights. —P.G. Upland Estates 2008 Old Vine Cabernet 89 Sauvignon (Snipes Mountain District); RiverAerie 2007 Fête (Columbia Valley); Sineann 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon $28. If you are looking for elegant, moderate (13.7%) 87 $20. A blend of Malbec, Petit Verdot and 91 (Columbia Valley); $30. Smooth and choco- alcohol and old vine Cabernet flavors, here is your Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine of medium concentra- laty, this blend of grapes from Columbia Valley vine- wine. Astringent tannins and lightly herbal, earthy tion brings a mélange of cherries and plums, wrapped yards is drinking at its peak. The mix of black fruits, undertones set the stage for the complex midpalate. No in smoky tannins. It’s on the earthy side of a Bordeaux coffee grounds, toast and chocolate is balanced, with fruit dominates, but rather a mix of cranberry and style blend. —P.G. no sharp edges. The barrel flavors are delicious, though rhubarb, strawberry and pomegranate, along with ultimately they may overwhelm the fruit. Seductive and streaks of caramel from aging in American oak. —P.G. Cave B 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- delicious. —P.G. 86 bia Valley); $25. Scents of moist earth and cof- Alder Ridge 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon fee grounds wrap around sharply defined berry fruit Southard 2008 Whipping Boy Cabernet 88 (Horse Heaven Hills); $25. Alder Ridge pro- flavors. This is just on the edge of volatile, buoyed by 91 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $25. Firm vides grapes to many of Washington’s quality boutiques; firm acidity, and showing a sharp streak of burnt toast and toasty, this Cabernet, from the Lawrence Vineyard this is their frontline estate Cabernet. It shows well in running through the tannins. —P.G. on the Royal Slope, has layers of earth and fungus, this sleek vintage. Firm and sculpted, with cassis and graphite and coffee grounds. The fruit is compact and plum fruit flavors, wrapped in mineral-soaked earth and Hogue 2007 Genesis Cabernet Sauvignon dark, tightly wound and needing plenty of breathing a finishing wash of coffee grounds. For all its complex- 85 (Columbia Valley); $16. Stiff and steely, this time. But the balance and proportion, and the tannin ity, it is a moderate wine with excellent balance. —P.G. herbal and tannic Cabernet has an interesting dusty

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 component like a simpler version of a Rutherford Mackey Vineyards 2009 Concordia hard and the finish brings in a broad swath of earth, tar (Napa) red. But rather than developing further com- 92 (Columbia Valley); $38. Dense, deep, dark, and bark. —P.G. plexity, it quickly fades away. —P.G. and loaded with black fruits, this keeps adding lay- ers––black coffee, smoke, earth, some rock, some char- Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Abracadabra Washington Hills 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- coal. It is vivid but not overbearing; the alcohol (14.9%) 88 (Columbia Valley); $15. Always a fine value, 85 gnon (Washington); $9. Spicy and bright, does not show in the mouth. Supple and still showing it’s even better now with a price drop to $15. Ten differ- this blend of Cabernet and five other black grapes is a some streaks of herb and bark. Delicious. —P.G. ent grapes are included, yet the wine has focus and bit diffuse. A mix of berries and astringent tannins dom- style. Black fruits are wrapped in earthy, herbal tan- inate, with black tea in the finish. Will show best with Mark Ryan 2008 The Dissident (Columbia nins, with good length and grip. No reason this couldn’t grilled meats. —P.G. 92 Valley); $32. The blend is 51% Cabernet stand up to a grilled flank steak. —P.G. Sauvignon, 29% Syrah, and 20% Merlot, delivering Claar 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- pure fruit flavors of black raspberry, blackberry and cas- Brian Carter Cellars 2007 Tuttorossso bia Valley); $19. 83 Barely ripe fruit is swamped sis. Sourced from young vines, and mostly Red Moun- 88 (Yakima Valley); $30. This is Brian Carter’s by flavors of earth, herb and leaf. Tannins are also tain vineyards, despite the Columbia valley label. SuperTuscan blend––Sangiovese-dominated with 18% unripe to the point of stemmy. Nonetheless, this could Succulent and brambly, with dusty tannins and a finish Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Syrah. Stiff and unyield- work if set against a grilled steak. —P.G. with dark coffee flavors. —P.G. ing when first opened, it rewards decanting with a broader expression of black, tarry fruits, black olives, Pend d’Oreille 2008 Meyer Reserve Caber- Maison Bleue 2009 Jaja Red (Yakima Val- coffee beans and dark chocolate. —P.G. 82 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $35. 90 ley); $20. Half Grenache and half Syrah, from Despite (or perhaps because of) its 15.5% alcohol, this Boushey and Upland, two of Yakima Valley’s best vine- Buried Cane 2008 Heartwood (Columbia reserve, sourced from the Lawrence Vineyard in Wash- yards. You rarely find fruit this good in a wine in this Valley); $25. ington’s emerging Royal Slope region, is a tired, weedy, 88 This Rhône red puts lots of toasty price range. Tart and sappy, bursting with raspberry and goodness around light fruit from a blend of Syrah, short and quite tannic wine that delivers little pleasure. pie cherry tang, this well-crafted blend saw only neutral —P.G. Grenache, Mourvèdre and Counoise grapes. Soft and oak. Finishes with just the right hint of earth and dark generous, it starts with watermelon and ends with black chocolate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. cherries, all coated with mocha and cinnamon. What’s not to like? —P.G. OTHER RED BLENDS Pendulum 2007 Red Wine (Columbia Val- ley); $15. Originally intended as a higher end Maison Bleue 2009 Upland Vineyard Grav- 90 Hollywood Hill 2009 Joyeuse (Puget wine in collaboration with Long Shadows, this is now a ière G.S.M. (Snipes Mountain District); Sound); $34. This unusual blend, all estate 95 sensational value. From an outstanding vintage, it’s a 88 $40. Jon Martinez, who arrived in Washington barely grown, is 70% Pinot Noir, 20% Regent, and 10% Agria. Cabernet-dominated blend of grapes from top Wash- six years ago, is knocking the ball out of the park. The Regent and Agria contribute color and tannin, ington vineyards. Supple, lightly toasty, layered with Improving with each new release, he has locked in a black fruits and spices, but the elegance of the Pinot wild berry and chocolaty earth flavors, this is the wine stellar collection of vineyards, and made Rhône-style Noir remains. Nicely made, showing pretty black cherry to slip into a blind tasting of pricier blends. Best Buy. wines his focus. This is a revelation. Pure berries, cassis, fruit and just a hint of leather. —P.G. —P.G. rock, earth, licorice, and a hint of baking spices. Gor- geous. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. JM Cellars 2009 Bramble Bump Red Rulo 2008 Syrca Syrah-Cabernet Sauvi- (Columbia Valley); $22. Young, purple and gnon (Columbia Valley); $15. Always one of 88 Den Hoed 2006 Marie’s View (Horse 90 tannic, this self-described “everyday wine” does not pull Washington’s best red wine values, the latest version of Heaven Hills); $80. For full review see page 3. its punches. Brambly, chewy, dark, tannic, with com- 94 Rulo’s Syrca marries a Syrah-dominant nose to a Cellar Selection. pact cassis and blackberry fruit, it can hold its own mouthfeel that is lithe and muscular. Flavors mix fruit against anything you throw on the grill. —P.G. Gramercy Cellars 2009 The Third Man Red preserves with harmonious barrel influences –coffee grounds, cocoa and toast. Slightly grainy, full-bodied, 94 (Columbia Valley); $45. This Priorat-like Script & Seal 2008 Red Blend (Washing- and totally delicious. Best Buy. —P.G. blend of 50% Grenache, 28% Syrah, and 22% Mourvè- 88 ton); $13. Primarily Syrah, this was barrel aged dre is pungent and spicy, with a bit of menthol in the Saint Laurent 2007 Lucky Red Syrah-Mer- in 40% new French and American oak––surprising at nose. Supple and luxurious fruit, a mix of raspberry and this price. Complex and layered, with dark berries, black fruits, baking spices, sweet barrel flavors. Power- 90 lot (Wahluke Slope); $15. Mostly Syrah, the licorice, coffee liqueur and roasted meat. Though ful and rich, this is a big wine with tobacco and clove rest Merlot, this sports a chocolaty nose and peppery, lighter than many Washington , at less than half highlights and a little heat in the finish. Cellar Selec- pretty red fruits. The two grapes complement each the price it captures the essence of the grape, with a cit- tion. —P.G. other well, lending texture and balance to a quaffable red that overdelivers for the price. Best Buy. —P.G. rusy finish. Best Buy. —P.G. Efesté 2008 Tough Guy Red (Red Moun- Tranche 2006 Slice of Pape Red (Columbia tain); $55. For full review see page 5. Cellar Tranche 2006 Red Wine (Columbia Valley); 93 Valley); $35. Selection. 90 $35. Packed in a big, heavy, hefty glass bottle, 88 Toasty and sleek, this Rhône and showing a generous amount of toasty, chewy oak, blend has subtle flavors of berry and herb, loaded with JM Cellars 2008 Tre Fanciulli Red (Colum- this is a substantial, tannic red wine with a long life chocolate-covered cherries and toast. Broad and full- 93 bia Valley); $42. For full review see page 5. ahead. Fruit flavors are dense and dark; the tannins flavored, with delicious barrel flavors that somewhat Cellar Selection. grainy and ripe, with smoke and espresso and a bit of override the fruit. —P.G. black olive threaded all through. —P.G. Seven Hills 2007 Pentad (Walla Walla Val- Waterbrook 2008 Mélange Noir Red Blend 93 ley); $50. For full review see page 6. Cellar Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Corrida (Colum- 88 (Columbia Valley); $13. A fruit-forward red, Selection. 89 bia Valley); $30. Two thirds Tempranillo, this with round, clean, fresh, tasty cherry flavors driving the Spanish-style red blend is filled out with 17% Merlot, bus. Not a layered or complex wine, but lovely to sip. Efesté 2008 Final-Final Cabernet-Syrah 6% Grenache, and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit Balanced and forward, with sweet-tasting, pretty fruit 92 (Columbia Valley); $27. For full review see is dark and compact, but nicely framed with barrel flavors, hints of flower and citrus, and well-managed page 7. Editors’ Choice. spices that add some welcome sweetness. Tannins are tannins. Best Buy. —P.G.

WineMag.com | 65 BUYING I GUIDE

Brian Carter Cellars 2007 Byzance (Colum- toned volatility, which heightens the flavors and bright- Animale 2008 Merlot (Washington); $22. 87 bia Valley); $30. A Southern Rhône-influ- ens the wine, but may attenuate the ageability. Cher- 86 The label reads Washington, but it’s a single- enced blend of 51% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 20% ries in brandy, astringent tannins, and lots of juicy vineyard Yakima Valley Merlot, with small amounts of Mourvèdre, with a splash each of Counoise and Cin- acidity. —P.G. three other Bordeaux varieties blended in. Sharp, sault. Slightly high-toned, bright cherry flavors, pencil earthy and firm, with rather thin fruit flavors and a fin- lead, earth, asphalt and grippy tannins. This will need Animale 2008 Cabernet Franc (Yakima Val- ish both tart and tannic. —P.G. decanting in order to open it up from its tightly wound 88 ley); $24. This is all Cab Franc, aged in neutral entrance. —P.G. barrels, and as pure an expression of the grape as it is Boomtown 2008 Merlot (Washington); made and grown in Washington as you will find. It has 86 $15. Light, rather thin Merlot fruit is coated Magnificent Wine Company 2009 House much of the herbal astringency of Carmenère, and could with lush flavors of licorice and vanilla. The oak treat- Wine Red (Columbia Valley); $11. 87 Except easily pass for a Chilean bottling of that grape. —P.G. ment may seem over the top to some, just right to oth- for a splash of Syrah, this qualifies as a Cabernet-centric ers. There’s plenty of acid to wash the palate clean. Bordeaux-style blend. Hard to find a better bottle of —P.G. blended red wine at the price. This has grip and breed, MERLOT with tart red fruits, ripe tannins, a wash of herb and Cave B 2008 Merlot (Columbia Valley); tart acidity. Put it up against anything you grill. Best Leonetti Cellar 2009 Merlot (Walla Walla 86 $25. Brambly fruit, loam, pencil lead and tarry Buy. —P.G. notes morph into a high acid, thickly tannic mouthfeel. Valley); $70. Though 2009 was a difficult vin- 94 Spicy plum and pie cherry fruit thins out quickly, with a tage for Washington Merlot, this is a truly luscious wine. Kana 2007 Old Vines Red (Yakima Valley); lightly toasty finish. —P.G. It welcomes the taster instantly with massive, generous $18. This is old vine Lemberger, one of the first 85 fruit cloaked in toasty, chewy, mocha and caramel fla- red grapes to be widely planted in eastern Washington. Mercer Estates 2008 Merlot (Columbia Val- vors. Tasted over the course of 48 hours, it held up well, It comes from a 1979 planting at the Red Willow vine- 86 ley); $24. Thick tannins take the fruit out fairly yard. Raspberry and cherry fruit flavors dominate, developing broad, well-integrated flavors of berries to quickly, though the alcohol, just under 15%, suggests pretty and pure, but lacking in depth. Some Lemberger complement the hedonistic oak. Sure to be a favorite plenty of ripeness in the grapes. Dark flavors can approach the style of Dry Creek Zinfandel; this is among all the current releases from Leonetti. —P.G. prevail––black cherry, cola, toast and bitter chocolate. more of a simple red quaffer. —P.G. —P.G. Sineann 2009 Champoux Vineyard Merlot Pine & Post NV Red (Washington); $7. 94 (Columbia Valley); $35. If any wine can blow Pine & Post 2009 Merlot (Washington); $7. 85 Syrah is three quarters of the blend, a great away the thought that Merlot is a thin, wimpy, nonde- 86 Strawberries rule here, gliding into a substantial choice in a value-priced red. Tangy berry fruit leads into script red, this is the wine. From the iconic Champoux finish with none of the faux flavors (excessive tobacco, a snappy middle. Vanilla wafer adds some resonance to Vineyard, it has magic and muscle, a broad and deep vanilla, etc.) that mar too many inexpensive . the finish. A fine everyday red. Best Buy. —P.G. display of black fruits, coffee, licorice, dark chocolate, Best Buy. —P.G. baking spices and beautifully built tannins. Explore and RiverAerie 2008 Petit Bec (Columbia Val- enjoy. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. RiverAerie 2008 Merlot (Columbia Valley); 85 ley); $24. Half Malbec, half Petit Verdot 85 $20. Pure Merlot, with muscle and sharp tan- (hence Petit Bec), this rough and tumble red has plenty Forgeron 2006 Merlot (Columbia Valley); nins. The scent suggests butter and caramel, but the of earthy tannic power. Rustic and sharp, with barely 90 $27. The mouthfeel is surprisingly soft right on wine itself has more herb and earth flavor than barrel or ripe fruit, it is similar to a cru Bordeaux, but with a little through the middle palate, then hits an astringent wash grape. —P.G. more meat on its bones. —P.G. of black fruits, dark toast, smoke and a vein of roasted espresso running through the finish. The tannins are Kana 2007 Dark Star Red (Columbia Val- toning down, but still very evident. Let it breathe and MALBEC 84 ley); $20. A blend of Syrah and Grenache, still nuances of pepper, clove, mineral and graphite emerge. hard and tannic. The flavors of earth, coffee and dark —P.G. Upland Estates 2008 Malbec (Snipes toast conceal whatever the fruit might have to say, leav- 90 Mountain District); $30. The fruit has cool- ing a trail of bitterness in the finish. —P.G. Saint Laurent 2007 Merlot (Wahluke climate flavors blending sweet herbs, grass and tart, Slope); $27. A nicely structured Merlot from wild, mountain fruit. It’s been handled well, and offers Kana 2007 Scarlet Fire Reserve Red 90 the Wahluke Slope, with aromas of sandalwood and texture and detail rather than pure power. —P.G. (Yakima Valley); $25. Mourvèdre and Syrah 83 blueberries. The mixed berry flavors run into tart pie comprise this Rhône blend. Hard and tannic, with thin, Reasons 2008 Black Magic Malbec (Horse cherries, sprinkled with a little pepper (from a small generic red fruit. —P.G. Heaven Hills); $35. In this high acid year, the amount of Cabernet Franc in the blend). Well crafted 87 wine shows a tart streak of citrus, almost like a Syrah. It and balanced. —P.G. has not really come together, despite ample bottle CABERNET FRANC age––the acids stick out, and the fruit is submerged by Cave B 2008 XXIII Merlot (Columbia Val- the flavors of new French oak. —P.G. ley); $35. Tranche 2007 Cabernet Franc (Walla Walla 87 The Roman numeral 23 is an indica- 91 Valley); $25. Emblematic of the new direction tion of the vineyard age; in the blend is 20% Cabernet Tempus Cellars 2008 Malbec (Walla Walla for Tranche, this pure varietal has power and presence. planted at the same time. This is stiff and herbal, with 87 Valley); $32. The first Malbec from Tempus, It gracefully captures the herbaceous aspect of the brambly, wild raspberry and light cherry fruit and a though young and chewy, has plenty of power and grape, without sacrificing the deep purple fruit. Fra- dusty ash flavor as the tannins fade. Good length and depth. A mix of wild berries and herbs blends into grant on entry, though the tannins are still a little hard balance. —P.G. slightly chalky, astringent, earthy tannins. Good varietal and chewy. Balanced and complex. Editors’ Choice. character, a bit on the rough and rustic side. —P.G. —P.G. Washington Hills 2008 Merlot (Washing- 87 ton); $9. With 13% Cabernet Franc in the RiverAerie 2008 Malbec (Columbia Valley); Sineann 2009 Champoux Vineyard Caber- blend, this has significant heft and a dark streak with 86 $24. Purple and tannic, with a grapey aroma 90 net Franc (Columbia Valley); $40. This is a flavors of herb, bark and fungus. The fruit is light and and a suggestion of dusty earth. The most interesting of wine that reflects the classically deep fruit and the tangy, but the overall structure is fine, with supporting RiverAerie’s pure , perhaps because of its high- vagaries of the vintage. It opens with a bit of high- acidity and alcohol at 13.5%. Best Buy. —P.G. toned, slightly volatile mouthfeel. Berry/cherry fruit

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 comes through sharply, then quickly fades into herbal foundation of Walla Walla Syrah, and a streak of rock Along with the tangy acidity and earthy tannins, it tannins. —P.G. and licorice. —P.G. makes for a complex and compelling Syrah. —P.G.

JM Cellars 2008 Boushey Vineyard Syrah Hogue 2007 Terroir Series Fries Vineyard SYRAH 92 (Yakima Valley); $55. If there is a better vine- 88 Syrah (Wahluke Slope); $NA. This single - yard than Boushey in Washington for Syrah, it has not vineyard Syrah, from an AVA known for doing espe- Rasa Vineyards 2008 Principia Reserve yet been discovered. This young wine tastes like cially well with that grape, has a lightly meaty varietal 94 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley); $85. 100% vari- younger vines, with more green and less meat in the fla- character with accents of earth and tobacco. The core etal, this is a strict barrel selection from key vineyards – vors. But the complexity and depth of Boushey fruit is of cherry fruit holds up through a medium-length fin- Les Collines, Seven Hills, Lewis and Portteus. It is there, and the wine takes you on a ride through a ish. —P.G. tight, dense, deeply detailed, and built for long term mélange of intriguing herb, fruit, cured meat and barrel aging. Right now it’s showing a fair amount of herb and flavors. —P.G. Hollywood Hill 2008 Syrah (Wahluke forest floor, but the structure is so perfect that it doesn’t 88 Slope); $32. Elegant, aromatic, and expressive matter. Cellar Selection. —P.G. JM Cellars 2008 Syrah (Columbia Valley); in the nose, this blossoms into a pleasing mix of berries, 92 $32. For full review see page 8. Editors’ cherries, bark, spice and sassafras. Good acidity, with a Gramercy Cellars 2008 Lagniappe Syrah Choice. lick of chocolate in the tannins and the finish. Though 93 (Columbia Valley (WA)); $45. An outstanding very light for Syrah, this has good balance and length. and uniquely styled Syrah. The mix of tart fruits, pep- Mark Ryan 2008 Lost Soul Syrah (Yakima —P.G. pers, herbs, earth and forest floor flavors is riveting. 92 Valley); $45. Sourced from Mike Sauer’s Les The wine dances and bows, it takes you on a leaping Vignes de Marcoux Vineyard (near Red Willow), this Hollywood Hill 2008 Syrah (Rattlesnake trip through a world of Syrah rarely found anywhere sends up classic Yakima Valley Syrah scents––black tea, 88 Hills); $32. This has good color, good texture, else, buoyed by the brilliant natural acidity of Wash- seaside funk, and umami, with drying tannins that seem wild berry fruits, juicy acidity and light hints of tea and ington fruit. Cellar Selection. —P.G. soaked in ripe black cherry fruit. Juicy finish, with a earth. It is a little bolder, and a little chewier than the streak of lemony acidity. —P.G. winery’s other Syrah, with more substantial tannins. — Mark Ryan 2008 Wild Eyed Syrah (Red P.G. 93 Mountain); $45. Fruit sourced from Red Tranche 2006 Syrah (Columbia Valley); $25. Mountain’s top vineyards––Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun and 92 A delicious wine, with pretty, pure Syrah Saint Laurent 2007 Syrah (Wahluke Kiona––comes on rich and fruity, with big and powerful flavors of blackberry fruit slathered in coffee liqueur Slope); $23. A dusty, cinnamon-inflected Syrah black cherry and cassis interwoven with threads of and caramel toast. It’s a wine that can only be called 88 bursting with blackberries. Persistent flavors play across smoke, coffee, graphite and baking chocolate. Deep, yummy; but it has muscle and verve and does not over- the palate, with a streak of citrus showing the underly- dark and dense. —P.G. reach for super ripeness. All in proportion, with inter- ing acidity. —P.G. esting streaks of licorice and smoke running through Rasa Vineyards 2008 QED Syrah (Walla the lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Saint Laurent 2006 Syrah (Wahluke Walla Valley); $50. A style that could be 93 Slope); $22. A good reflection of the vintage, described as austere. The fruit has a wild, mountain- Waters 2008 Loess Vineyard Syrah (Walla 88 this is meaty and concentrated, with dark purple fruits grown character, like blueberries fresh-picked a bit early Walla Valley); $48. A sharply etched, spicy, 92 swathed in cinnamon, coffee and dark chocolate. Tasted in the season. The herbal strains weave throughout, and dense, intriguing wine. Tobacco, baking spices, wild more than four years after the vintage, it was still youth- the tannins, as with all Rasa wines, are sculpted and berries and smoke roll on through. The wine has mus- ful and fresh, with a hard tannic shell. —P.G. refined. Impeccable balance, detail and length. —P.G. cle and depth; what it needs is time. —P.G. Crayelle Cellars 2008 Syrah (Washington); Syncline 2009 McKinley Springs Vineyard pb 2008 Syrah (Yakima Valley); $29. Spicy, $25. 93 Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills); $30. A dark, 91 firm, supple and deep, offering lots of blue and 87 Peppery and herbal, with thin, tight veins smoky, earthy Syrah with juicy blackberry and black purple fruit, though nothing jammy or too ripe. The of wild black fruits. It’s an elegant style, with underlying currant fruits. This wine just coats the palate and tannins are very smooth and fine, the balance impecca- minerality, though weighted toward a European palate. seduces; threads of coffee and caramel, baking spices ble. This is the sister label to Rasa. —P.G. —P.G. and cinnamon all weave through the lengthy finish. The tannins are supportive but unobtrusive, and the bal- Reasons 2008 New Moon Syrah (Horse Crayelle Cellars 2007 Syrah (Washington); ance is superb. It finishes with a burst of grilled meat. 91 Heaven Hills); $35. Harvested on the night of 86 $25. Cherry and plum fruit flavors seem a little Editors’ Choice. —P.G. the new moon (hence the name); this was aged in one- fragmented and highly acidic. Young tasting, but tasting year-old French oak. The fruit stands out, striking for its just on the green side of ripe, despite the 14.3% alco- Corliss Estates 2008 Syrah (Columbia Val- dense purple shade, its meaty undertones and its pretty hol. —P.G. 92 ley); $55. Soft entry, with generous aromas purity. It’s overlaid with big barrel flavors of caramel and introducing supple purple and black fruits. Tannins are toast—delicious, but dominant. Let it breathe! —P.G. Hogue 2008 Genesis Syrah (Columbia Val- substantial, well-structured, slightly grainy. There are 86 ley); $16. A fruity wine, with tangy cranberry light streaks of smoke, coffee, herb and bark; the earthy Rulo 2008 Syrah (Columbia Valley); $20. and raspberry flavors. Sharply acidic, with fairly strong character of Syrah is evident but seems somehow soft- 91 Varietal and dusty, mixing textural flavors of tannins, it seems a little tight and thin, but does have ened and wrapped in the toasty barrel flavors. The earth, toast, coffee grounds, chocolate and lush purple the pure fruit and some length in the finish to recom- blend includes 3% cofermented Viognier and 17% fruits. Medium concentration, not yet fully integrated. mend it. —P.G. Grenache. —P.G. There is a refreshing lick of citrus oil on the finish. Edi- tors’ Choice. —P.G. Tempus Cellars 2008 Syrah (Walla Walla Gramercy Cellars 2009 Syrah (Walla Walla 86 Valley); $25. Despite its 15.4% alcohol, this 92 Valley); $45. A very firm and well-structured Animale 2008 Syrah (Yakima Valley); $26. Syrah seems light through the middle. It’s got syrupy expression of pure Walla Walla Syrah. There is a core of 90 This is 100% Syrah is quite ripe, with alcohol at barrel flavors of bourbon and caramel that overshadow blueberry and blackberry fruit, amply wrapped in 15.6%; yet not over-ripe or raisiny. Rather, the fruit is the pretty red fruit. The alcohol doesn’t burn, but the sweetly toasty, smoky oak (despite very little new barrel like a blackberry compote, concentrated and bursting wine does not have the mass to compensate. Drink up. usage). It finishes clean with the characteristic earthy with the essence of berries and a pleasing pastry note. —P.G.

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Boomtown 2008 Syrah (Washington); $15. RiverAerie 2008 Barbera (Columbia Val- acter, though the Sangiovese is unblended. Tart, chewy, 85 Vanilla, tobacco and anise flavors quickly over- 84 ley); $16. This is 100% varietal, tart to the edge acidic and light, with plenty of acid. —P.G. whelm the fruit; perhaps the wine just needs to breathe of sour, with no sign of new oak. The fruit dances longer. At first taste, it quickly turns tannic and very around rhubarb and sour cherry, with some green tan- Kana 2007 Tempranillo (Columbia Valley); drying; the fruit is buried and the oak flavors are still a nins. —P.G. 82 $18. Tart and thin, with strawberry fruit and bit jarring and disjointed. —P.G. stiff tannins. It’s 100% Tempranillo, but it could be any- thing. —P.G. RiverAerie 2007 Syrah (Columbia Valley); OTHER RED WINES 84 $22. Sharply defined aromas, with a little funk at the base, lead into tart red fruits and flavors of Maison Bleue 2009 Upland Vineyard La ROSÉ slightly bitter herbs. The fruit fades quickly, leaving tart 94 Montagnette Grenache (Snipes Mountain flavors of stem and leaf in its wake. —P.G. District); $35. As fine a Grenache as I have yet tasted Tranche 2010 Pink Pape Dry Rosé (Walla from Washington State. The aching purity of the fruit, 90 Walla Valley); $16. The best rosé of the year? Claar 2008 Syrah (Columbia Valley); $19. married to the density, focus and minerality, is breath- Could be. It’s difficult to review a wine that you just 82 This starts out well, with some varietal fruit and taking. Cellar Selection. —P.G. want to slug down, it’s so good. Gorgeous color, smooth, pepper in the nose. But the aggressive vanilla and cof- fresh, ripe, mixed stone fruits across a lush palate, and a fee flavors suggest that the oak treatments were not Leonetti Cellar 2008 Sangiovese (Walla clean entry and exit. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. well integrated, and the tannins have a bitterly harsh 91 Walla Valley); $60. Young, tangy and tart, with edge to them. —P.G. racy raspberries, strawberries and pomegranate––this Ardenvoir 2009 Rosé (Columbia Valley); is a vividly fruity and penetrating wine. Crisply defined, 88 $16. This excellent rosé is one of a handful immaculately fresh, it is structured for both immediate given extra bottle age before release, and it rewards MOURVÈDRE enjoyment and cellaring over the next 6–8 years. —P.G. that time with unusual flavors––rhubarb and straw- berry, hints of banana and a touch of creamsicle in the Mark Ryan 2008 Crazy Mary Mourvèdre Syncline 2009 Pinot Noir (Columbia fade. Not typical in any way, but tasty and full-bodied. (Red Mountain); $45. 93 This meaty, gamy wine 91 Gorge); $30. It has a delicacy rarely seen in —P.G. is 84% Mourvèdre, and marries its earthy flavors to the domestic Pinots, with scents of roses and chocolate, and ripe black fruit of the Syrah. The two mix well, but flavors of wild mountain raspberries and tangy cran- Waterbrook 2010 Sangiovese Rosé could use a bit more bottle time to fully integrate. berry. Acids bring a tartness to the mouth, and the tan- (Columbia Valley); $11. Bright and tart, Blood, meat, cassis and smoke mingle, and some heat 85 nins are ripe and proportionate, yet substantial. They almost sour. This is the style of rosé you want on a hot slips in at the end, along with rich coffee grounds and suggest that this young wine could have a surprisingly summer day. Chill it well down and drink it like a stain- dark chocolate. Big, flavorful, lingering. —P.G. long cellar life. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. less-fermented white wine. The alcohol is barely over 12%––it won’t hurt! —P.G. Rasa Vineyards 2009 Vox Populi Mourvè- Gramercy Cellars 2009 Inigo Montoya dre (Columbia Valley); $45. A rare 100% 93 Tempranillo (Walla Walla Valley); $45. This varietal Mourvèdre. The tannins are superb, almost 90 has a dark core of smoke and espresso, wrapped around CHARDONNAY silky, almost impossible to achieve with this rough and clean red fruits and moderate acidity. Fine structure tumble grape. Dark, smoky, earthy and still refined, this and some depth, with a real chance to improve in the JM Cellars 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia seduces with clean, wild blueberry fruit, just hinting at a cellar for another 6–8 years. —P.G. Valley); $35. For full review see page 4. Edi- mountain berry sweetness. —P.G. 94 tors’ Choice. Hollywood Hill 2009 Pinot Noir (Puget Syncline 2009 Heart of the Hill Mourvè- Sound); $38. Mark Ryan 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia dre (Red Mountain); $30. A stunning wine, 90 This is really lovely. The aromas 92 Valley); $28. Beautiful craftsmanship is on dis- this could be the poster child for the future of Washing- are true to the variety, elegant and floral, with an under- 94 ton Mourvèdre. The aromas are a dappled and seduc- tone of dusty cocoa. Flavors follow. In the mouth it play in this mélange of mouth-coating butterscotch, tive mix of raspberries, moist earth, baking spices, tastes of raspberries and rose petals, with pretty choco- Meyer lemon and sweet citrus flavors. It’s rich without mocha and an intriguing suggestion of wet cement. late milk flavors in the finish, which lingers gracefully, a being at all tiring, and the lengthy and succulent fruit Marvelous definition, length and character. Give it very fine, though delicate, bottle. —P.G. flavors keep adding details, such as hints of cucumber plenty of breathing time and it gains mass and com- and herb. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. plexity. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Animale 2008 Petite Sirah (Yakima Valley); 88 $26. Very little Petite Sirah is grown in Wash- Rulo 2009 Sundance Vineyard Chardon- ington. This is a fascinating expression of the grape, 93 nay (Wahluke Slope); $20. The freshest, BARBERA dark and tannic, deeply flavored but not at all sweet or saltiest, most intense of the Rulo whites, this bursts sappy. Underbrush, wild berries, moist earth and pencil forth with seabreeze scents and rich minerality. The Forgeron 2007 Barbera (Columbia Valley); lead flavors cascade through the mouth, with green- fruit is a synopsis of citrus, apple and fresh herb, and 88 $30. Tight and reductive when first opened, tinged tannins rolling through the finish. Complex and the balance is perfect. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. with a mix of strawberry and raspberry fruit, and a hint unique. —P.G. of rubber ball. Let this one breathe! It’s well-built, the Ardenvoir 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia fruit nicely matched to the French oak (two thirds Nodland Cellars 2007 Avant Garde Car- 92 Valley); $25. For full review see page 7. new), and still a baby. —P.G. 88 menère (Walla Walla Valley); $28. An inter- esting wine for Carmenère aficionados. Varietal herb Forgeron 2009 Vigneron Select Chardon- Tranche 2006 Barbera (Columbia Valley); and peppery spice shine through the tart, wild berry 91 nay (Columbia Valley); $25. A luscious cas- 88 $20. The tart, strawberry flavors of Barbera fruit. Plenty of acidity gives a lick of citrus through a cade of apples, pears, honeydew melon and sweet come into balance, amplified with what seems to be a lightly toasty finish. —P.G. pineapple fruit is set against lip-licking acidity. Just one generous amount of new oak, which contributes lovely third was aged in new French oak, the rest used barrels. caramel throughout the finish. Acids and tannins are in RiverAerie 2008 Sangiovese (Columbia There is a hint of heat in the finish, but the wine deliv- proportion, and the cinnamon toast flavors of the finish 84 Valley); $16. Some sandalwood incense ele- ers a good long ride across the heart of the palate. Edi- end harmoniously. —P.G. vates the nose. In the mouth there is little varietal char- tors’ Choice. —P.G.

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Rulo 2009 Birch Creek Vineyard Chardon- RiverAerie 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia RiverAerie 2009 Pinot Gris (Columbia Val- 91 nay (Walla Walla Valley); $20. Young and 86 Valley); $12. Juicy and textural, this fresh and 87 ley); $12. Lightly spritzy and bone dry, this still a bit yeasty, with the flavors still integrating. The lightly spicy Chardonnay showcases mineral and herbal almost-ephemeral wine lists the alcohol at 13%, but toasty barrel and bourbon flavors are matched to flavors—wet stone, cilantro, and jicama. The finish tastes more like 12%. Light is not thin, however; it medium acids and stone fruits. This needs more time in brings just a suggestion of oak aging, with a light streak offers delicate flavors of melon, celery and crisp green the bottle to show all its strengths. Editors’ Choice. — of bourbon barrel. —P.G. apple. Best Buy. —P.G. P.G. Pine & Post 2008 Chardonnay (Washing- Upland Estates 2009 Chardonnay (Snipes 84 ton); $7. Sémillon and Viognier account for RIESLING 91 Mountain District); $22. An unusual blend 14% of the blend, taking it away from varietal character that includes 11% Aligote. It’s thick and ripe, with apri- but adding some citrus and spice. This is a solid, every- Crayelle Cellars 2009 Dry Riesling (Wash- cot and peach fruit wrapped in buttery oak from aging day white, with moderate alcohol and a clean finish. 91 ington); $15. The winery motto is “Balance • in French barrels, one third new. The wine has a won- Best Buy. —P.G. Character • Longevity” and this shows every indication derful midpalate presence, big and full, that leads into a of having all three. Tart and racy in an Australian style, finish with hints of herb as well as lush barrel flavors. Hogue 2008 Reserve Chardonnay (Yakima with lemon-lime fruit wrapped in dry minerals. Juicy Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Valley); $25. Perhaps an unrepresentative bot- 83 and fragrant. Best Buy. —P.G. tle (just one was submitted), but this 2008 reserve was Jones of Washington 2010 Chardonnay muddy in the glass and flabby in the mouth. Oaky and Efesté 2010 Evergreen Riesling (Columbia (Wahluke Slope); $17. For full review see buttery to an extreme degree, it had lost all freshness 90 Valley); $16. For full review see page 9. Edi- page 10. Editors’ Choice. and fruit. —P.G. 91 tors’ Choice. Cave B 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay Mackey Vineyards 2010 Off Dry Riesling (Columbia Valley); $19. Pine and herb and PINOT GRIS 88 (Columbia Valley); $15. green apple scents introduce this sharply defined wine, 90 Off dry it is, with fla- with crisp acidity and bright fruit flavors. It’s tight and pb 2010 Heritage Pinot Gris (Yakima Val- vors of Meyer lemon and black tea and plenty of acid. It juicy, an excellent companion to creamy dishes or soft 92 ley); $18. A dry, late-harvest wine from 20- is a fine value for the price, with density, concentration, cheeses. —P.G. year-old vines. Floral with a subtle honey note, more purity of fruit and grip. Fruit runs through citrus into like pollen; lemon and orange candy, sleek and deep. light tropical; the sugar falls out in the very finish but is Maison Bleue 2010 Au Contraire French Editors’ Choice. —P.G. balanced nicely against the acids. Best Buy. —P.G. 88 Creek Vineyard Chardonnay (Yakima Val- ley); $20. This unique old vine Chardonnay vineyard Tranche 2008 Pinot Gris (Columbia Gorge); Saint Laurent 2009 Riesling (Columbia Val- makes cool-climate grape flavors as interesting and 91 $16. Crisp and bright, with a detailed mix of 90 ley); $12. Estate-grown grapes yield a Ger- complex as any fruit bomb. Spring herb, light floral, cit- spring herbs and citrus fruits. The powerful acidity and manic wine, with 11.7% alcohol and 2.4% residual rus and grapefruit combine in a delicate, elegant wine. a hint of mineral running through the finish adds to the sugar. Bracing and succulent, it mixes orange and It’s Chablis without the chalk; plenty of acid. —P.G. depth. This just keeps on going, clean and satisfying. Meyer lemon fruit with an underlying minerality. The Editors’ Choice. —P.G. light frame and sugar-acid tension create a lively and Mercer Estates 2009 Chardonnay (Colum- interesting dynamic. Best Buy. —P.G. 88 bia Valley); $15. A price drop brings this Jones of Washington 2009 Pinot Gris delightful Chardonnay into value territory. With its 89 (Columbia Valley); $12. The alcohol is listed Tempus Cellars 2010 Evergreen Vineyard lively mix of citrus and stone fruits, the suggestions of at just 12.3%, with residual sugar under 1%, but notice- 90 Riesling (Columbia Valley); $16. Given the rock and white pepper, and the overall crisp attack, this able. The overall balance is excellent, with a fruit-for- high acidity of the Evergreen Vineyard’s Riesling, the is a summertime picnic wine. Drink it chilled, and it ward appeal built upon clean, crisp layers of citrus and 1.3% residual sugar in this wine barely registers. Dry will go well with anything from egg salad to sliced stone fruits. What surprises is the persistence; the score and loaded with grapefruit, pear, stone fruits and tart turkey or ham. —P.G. reflects both the breadth and length of this wine. Best green apple flavors. The finish is satisfying and textural, Buy. —P.G. with the acidity leaving you thirsting for the next sip. Saint Laurent 2008 Chardonnay (Colum- Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 88 bia Valley); $20. Barrel fermented, with fine Boomtown 2010 Pinot Gris (Washington); $13. concentration, this toasty, vanilla-streaked Chardonnay 88 A bracing, mouth-cleansing style, 100% Mercer Estates 2009 Riesling (Yakima Val- links its apple and pear fruit to pastry flavors. Like tak- varietal. Ultracrisp fruit mixes apple, melon and cucum- ley); $14. Rather delicate, with 12.6% alcohol ing a drink from a pear tart. —P.G. ber, then fills out in the middle with pretty herb and 89 yet a distinctly dry mouthfeel, this well-crafted Ries- grass. The wine resonates, refreshing and textural, beg- ling mingles green apple, pear, lemon zest, grapefruit Buried Cane 2009 Whiteline No Oak ging for food, or at least another glass. Best Buy. —P.G. and melon fruit flavors. Good length and texture, with Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); $14. For 87 lemon tea flavors to wrap it up. Best Buy. —P.G. full review see page 12. Jones of Washington 2010 Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley); $12. Just a hint of sweet- 88 Nodland Cellars 2010 Bebop Riesling Boomtown 2010 Chardonnay (Washing- ness (residual sugar is under 1%) cuts through the bit- (Columbia Valley); $16. 86 ton); $13. Very much in the mode of the ing acidity, creating a fine-tuned sense of balance and 89 This young, vibrant Boomtown Pinot Gris, this is clean, crisp and refresh- adding depth and body to the overall structure. Grape- Riesling shows lemon and lime and grapefruit in abun- ing, with light, melony fruit and a strong mineral streak. fruit, pear and nectarine flavors showcase the intense dance, but subtly layers in some floral highlights as It’s bracing and textural, rather light and fun for sipping, fruit character. Best Buy. —P.G. well––only in the aromas, enticing enough, but actu- though not especially varietal. —P.G. ally in the flavors that run on through the lingering fin- Mercer Estates 2009 Pinot Gris (Yakima ish. It’s a little like chewing on flowers... in a good way. Cave B 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- 87 Valley); $15. Light, clean, gently spicy pear —P.G. 86 ley); $25. This bold, barrel-fermented and apple fruit flavors are set in a crisp white wine with Chardonnay hits the palate with bright fruit broadly fine acidity. The hints of white pepper give it detail and Buried Cane 2009 Single Leaf Riesling displayed across a full-bodied middle. It’s lightly but- interest; the fresh acidity encourages that second and 88 (Columbia Valley); $14. For full review see tery, blocky and built for easy enjoyment. —P.G. third glass. Drink this chilled. —P.G. page 12.

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Rasa Vineyards 2010 The Lyricist Riesling almost to the point of sourness, it is saved by its sharply 88 (Columbia Valley); $30. Harvested at high etched green apple crispness. Definitely a Sauvignon sugar, but set against very tart acidity. It’s a sharply Blanc in the style of a piercing Quincy, with that sort of OTHER WHITE WINES defined wine, with a sugary finish. Good concentration, acidity, but not the minerality. —P.G. with a sugar-acid balance and dense phenolics, but not Mark Ryan 2009 Viognier (Columbia Val- knit together. The components all stick out. —P.G. Mercer Estates 2009 Sauvignon Blanc 93 ley); $28. For full review see page 6. Editors’ 86 (Columbia Valley); $15. This is a clean, fruity, Choice. Washington Hills 2010 Late Harvest Sweet pleasant white wine that could just as easily be some- 88 Riesling (Washington); $9. Off-dry (thanks thing along the lines of an Italian Orvieto rather than a Ardenvoir 2009 Sémillon (Columbia Val- to searing acidity, matched against 4.4% residual sugar), Washington Sauv Blanc. Melon and cucumber, fresh 92 ley); $22. For full review see page 7. Editors’ this pleasant sipper also brings lemon tea flavors, and a acidity, and alcohol just a little over 13%. —P.G. Choice. light, graceful structure to bear. Apricot and peach fruit, lightly kissed with tangerine, makes it a solid sipper. Syncline 2010 Underwood Mountain Best Buy. —P.G. WHITE BLENDS 89 Vineyard Grüner Veltliner (Columbia Gorge); $20. Showing excellent varietal character, this Hogue 2009 Genesis Riesling (Columbia JM Cellars 2010 Bramble Bump White light, textural, delicately spicy white wine is finished at 87 Valley); $16. Nicely structured, with citrus 90 (Columbia Valley); $17. This popular white just 12.8% alcohol, yet remains quite dry. There is a fruits (lemon, lime, pink grapefruit) displayed against blend shows really well in this new vintage. Half Viognier pleasing saltiness to the mouthfeel, almost like an stiffer flavors of skin. There is a hint of residual sugar, and the rest a Chardonnay-Sauvignon-Sémillon mix, it Albariño, and the finish is crisp and nicely detailed. and the alcohol is just under 13%, but the overall maintains its focus and offers layered fruits annotated Editors’ Choice. —P.G. impression is a dry, tight style with little or no floral with fresh herbs and light pepper. Thoroughly delicious character. —P.G. and drinking beautifully. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Cave B 2009 Gewürztraminer (Columbia 88 Valley); $22. A big step up for this winery’s Southard 2009 Riesling (Columbia Valley); Forgeron 2009 Ambiance (Columbia Val- Gewürztraminer, this off-dry style puts the emphasis 87 $18. Delicate, enticing floral and citrus scents 89 ley); $25. This lovely blend, inspired by the on a flavor mix of sweet tea, Meyer lemon, orange and flavors mingle gracefully. It gains a little flesh in the white wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is 55% Rous- candy and a hint of granular sugar. Tasty and full-bod- mouth, but remains light and just a little green through sanne, 27% Grenache Blanc, and 18% Viognier. Round ied, with balancing acids. —P.G. the finish. —P.G. and peachy, it’s vividly framed by fresh acidity and citrus rind. Just 20% new French oak adds a kiss of toast to Jones of Washington 2010 Viognier Rasa Vineyards 2009 The Composer Ries- the finish. —P.G. 88 (Wahluke Slope); $17. Good fruit from the 86 ling (Columbia Valley); $30. This is sourced expansive estate vineyards is the story here. The wine is from old vine (1973) vines. It has hints of band-aid Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Oriana (Yakima solid, straight-ahead, with plenty of citrus and melon scents, and a tropical, tutti-fruity flavor. Plenty of acid- 88 Valley); $20. Zippy flavors of melon and new- and peach-powered flavor. Big and round and tasty, ity, and excellent length, but not entirely knit together. mowed grass, nicely integrated and loaded with the sort with a lick of toast in the back of the throat. —P.G. The jury is out. —P.G. of spicy herbs that might have come fresh from the gar- den. Note the relatively low alcohol, making this a per- Southard 2009 Lawrence Vineyard Rous- Hogue 2009 Riesling (Columbia Valley); fect summer sipping wine. —P.G. 87 sanne (Columbia Valley); $20. Clean and 85 $10. This is Hogue’s Red Label bottling, an off- fresh, from a Royal Slope vineyard, showing white dry with slightly sugary flavors of sweet tea Script & Seal 2009 White Blend (Washing- peach fruit with a pleasing hint of fresh herb. The acids and oranges. A hint of a medicinal, vitamin pill flavor 88 ton); $12. All stainless fermented, mostly are proportionate, and the mouthfeel offers a palate- creeps into the finish. Best Buy. —P.G. Chardonnay, this makes a serious play for a place on the cleansing wash of minerality. —P.G. $12 white wine shelf. Clean, crisp, stylish and focused, it brings green apple and melon fruit up against a firm Cave B 2009 Sémillon (Columbia Valley); SAUVIGNON BLANC border of skin tannins––citrus rind and such. Zippy and 85 $20. A whiff of sweat; then the woolly character fresh. Best Buy. —P.G. of the fruit takes over the mouthfeel. It’s soft and vari- Efesté 2010 Feral Sauvignon Blanc etal, a spongy mix of apple, pear and peach. There is a 92 (Columbia Valley); $18. For full review see Syncline 2010 Subduction White (Colum- bit of heat in the finish, and a suggestion of light toast. page 7. Editors’ Choice. 88 bia Valley); $20. Viognier, Roussanne and —P.G. Grüner Veltliner mix pleasantly in this newest edition of Ardenvoir 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Colum- Syncline’s popular Subduction white. Tasted shortly RiverAerie 2009 Gewürztraminer (Colum- 91 bia Valley); $19. For full review see page 8. after bottling, it was delightful, though perhaps not yet 85 bia Valley); $16. Lovely scents mix rose petals Editors’ Choice. at its peak. Spicy and aromatic, with melon, herb and and citrus blossom. Smooth and delicate, this captures lemongrass, and just a whiff of white pepper. —P.G. the varietal character, with suggestions of bath oil and Jones of Washington 2010 Sauvignon exotic fruits. The finish goes a little sideways, flattening 91 Blanc (Columbia Valley); $15. For full review Saint Laurent 2008 Lucky White (Colum- out quickly. —P.G. see page 12. Best Buy. 87 bia Valley); $12. This pleasant blend of Sauvi- gnon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling has the flesh, the Magnificent Wine Company 2010 Fish fruit and the bracing acidity to be a fine summer sipper. 88 House Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley); Peaches and herb (not the singing duo!) dominate, with $11. Pure varietal, bracing and pleasantly grassy. This a fresh, fleshy finish. Best Buy. —P.G. brings bright, herbaceous flavors of melon and citrus to the front, with a lemony snap that is indeed the sort of Southard 2009 untitled no. 1 (Columbia wine that goes well with many types of seafood, from 85 Valley); $20. A field blend of Riesling, Sauvi- oysters on up to halibut steaks. Best Buy. —P.G. gnon Blanc and (believe it or not) Red Traminer. Fer- mented and aged in a once-used acacia barrel. Club Claar 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia wine only––not for review. Got a flat spot in the middle. 86 Valley); $13. This is for acid lovers only. Tart Mostly lightly grassy Sauv Blanc flavors. —P.G.

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 WineMag.com | 71 BUYING I GUIDE Spirits THE WINE ENTHUSIAST SPIRITS BUYING GUIDE

SCOTCH WHISKIES’ PERFECT BLENDS The Spirits Buying Guide is a summary of recent detailed evaluations and product ratings of a single reviewer, Spirits ingle malts get all the headlines, but correspondingly less flavorful. Reviewer Kara Newman. Every tasting note is accompa- blended Scotch still makes up the vast The purpose of blending Scotches is to achieve nied by a rating. Also noted are the full name of the product, Smajority of the Scotch whisky market. consistency and create a more uniform aroma its alcoholic strength expressed as percent alcohol by vol- ume, the producer’s name, and the suggested U.S. retail The Scotch Whisky Association provides down- and flavor than achievable by single malts alone. price. If the price cannot be confirmed, an $NA (not avail- right draconian guidelines for what may be called A handful of meticulous distillers, like John able) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottle unless oth- Scotch, but in brief, Scotch whisky (the Scots drop Glaser of Compass Box fame, have created some erwise indicated. the ‘e’) must be distilled and aged in Scotland, eye-popping blends that are helping blended although it may be bottled in other countries. Scotches gain some of the respect accorded their TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS Tastings are conducted individually in a controlled tasting Blended Scotch mixes together one or more single malt brethren. environment. Spirits are tasted alone; no formal reviews are single malt Scotches, often with one or more sin- Another bonus for blends: Many bartenders ever conducted in the presence of any producer or industry gle grain Scotches. For this tasting, samples are understandably reluctant to mix rare single representative. Samples are tasted blind in flights of no more ranged from blends of three whiskies to 40—yes, malts into cocktails. But they are less skittish than six to eight products. Price is not a factor in the evalua- tion. 40 different whiskies make up a single bottle of about mixing more readily available—and often Johnny Walker Black Label. more affordable—blended Scotches into classic ABOUT THE SCORES Malt whisky is made from malted barley (grain drinks like the Blood and Sand, the Bobby Burns Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompa- that’s been germinated or sprouted) and is dis- and the Rusty Nail. nying tasting note to learn about each spirit’s special charac- tilled in old-fashioned pot stills, considered an Smoky, peaty Scotch in particular has long teristics. The numerical ratings correspond to quality in the following manner: essential part of the whisky’s flavor and character. been regarded as unmixable, but many bar- A blend that contains only single malts is called a tenders now treat it similarly to smoky mezcal. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. blended malt Scotch whisky. Consider the Northshore Cocktail, a Mai Tai-like Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. By comparison, grain whisky, which mixes libation from Scottsdale, Arizona, bartender Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. together malted barley with unmalted grains (pri- Jason Asher. He combines Compass Box Peat Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. marily corn), is distilled in a continuous still—a Monster, fruity-floral Hum liqueur, orgeat Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- more efficient technology than old-school pot (almond syrup) and lime juice, to delicious effect. critical circumstances. stills, but many experts say the resulting liquor is —KARA NEWMAN Spirits receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed.

Chivas Regal 25 Year Old (Scotland; mas hint at what’s to come. On the palate, expect a flash Certain spirits are designated as Best Buys. Spirits earning 96 Pernod Ricard USA, Purchase, NY); 40% of sweetness, finishing with caramel and a faint veil of this designation offer a high level of quality in relation to abv, $250. Complex and flavorful, with raisin and fresh smoke. Mouthwatering. price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for deter- apple aromas in a supersoft, silky texture. Add a splash mining Best Buys. of water to coax out intense clove, burnt orange, Black Bull 12-year-old (Scotland; Anchor SUBMITTING SPIRITS FOR REVIEW caramel and crème brûlée notes.The smoky finish is 93 Distilling, San Diego, CA); 50% abv, $45. Spirits should be submitted to the following reviewing loca- the long-lingering type that whisky aficionados exclaim At first, this whisky reads as sweet, with loads of vanilla, tion: Kara Newman c/o 36 West 20th St, 3rd over for 10 minutes as the flavors continue to kaleido- but finishes dry with sparks of ginger and cloves and lin- Floor, New York, NY, 10011. Inquiries should scope. For maximum enjoyment, sip without any gering notes of dark chocolate and burnt toffee. Sur- be addressed to Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman at whisky aficionados around. prisingly balanced for a cask-strength spirit. [email protected]. There is no charge for sub- mitting spirits, and Wine Enthusiast will make every effort Johnnie Walker Blue Label (Scotland; Dia- Johnnie Walker Gold Label (Scotland; Dia- to sample all spirits submitted for review. There is, however, 95 geo North America, Norwalk, CT); 40% 93 geo North America, Norwalk, CT); 40% no guarantee that all submissions will be tasted, or that abv, $220. A honey-colored whisky with a spicy, smoky abv, $85. This amber blend of 15 whiskies, each aged reviews will appear in the magazine. All submissions must be fragrance. The first sip is surprisingly sweet and hon- at least 18 years, yields a mellow, balanced mix of sweet accompanied by a submission form, which may be down- eyed, then the smoke gently creeps in like fog at dawn, caramel, raisin and smoky notes, all lingering and pleas- loaded from our website. Please be sure to check the spirits softly surrounding the edges of the tongue. ing. Serve chilled, possibly as a dessert pairing. tasting schedule prior to submitting samples. LABELS Johnnie Walker Green Label (Scotland; Grant’s Family Reserve (Scotland; William Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their 94 Diageo North America, Norwalk, CT); 43% 92 Grant & Sons, New York, NY) 40% abv, representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, abv, $60. This maple syrup-toned spirit is a blend of $21. A suave and smooth mix of Dufftown and Spey- which are reproduced and printed along Islay and Speyside malts, with no grain whisky added. side Scotches. The burnished copper spirit has lively with tasting notes and scores. For information on The result is an effortless mix of lightly smoky and oaky orange peel, butterscotch and baking spice notes and a label purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone at caramel notes, and a smooth, velvety feel. A splash of buttery finish. Good value. 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or email branchwater amps up the peat quotient. [email protected]. The Talisman (Scotland; Prestige Wine Asyla (Compass Box; Compass Box USA, 92 Group, Princeton, MN); 40% abv, $18. In a Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at 93 Manhasset, NY); 40% abv, $35. A top word: light. From the pale amber color to the mild buyingguide.winemag.com choice for those who prefer a lighter whisky style. The vanilla scent, this spirit is gentle, soft and breezy all pale straw color and gentle vanilla and fresh pear aro- around. Look for a flash of caramel sweetness and a

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 light smoky finish. Pair with a Scottish smoked salmon Johnnie Walker Red Label (Scotland; Dia- appetizer. Good value. 89 geo North America, Norwalk, CT); 40% abv, $23. This spirit needs some time to open up, and The Black Grouse (Scotland; Remy Coin- then mild raisin and burnt-orange aromas peek 92 treau USA, New York NY); 40% abv, $30. through. Caramel flavors give over to a lingering smoky Lightly smoky, lightly fruity aroma, this spirit shows a finish. The distiller claims that this blend is the only little more caramel the more you dip into the glass. The one created for mixing; surely it would be nice served primary flavor is a lingering peaty note, but also has tall, with lots of ice and ginger ale. some nice undercurrents of caramel and honey. Lonach Blended Scotch 1973 (Scotland; Dewar’s 12 Years Old (Scotland; Bacardi 88 Anchor Distilling, San Diego, CA); 40.9% 92 USA, Miami, FL); 40% abv, $29. For full abv, $135. At first, this golden whisky’s aroma trans- review see page 12. lates as spicy and slightly mezcal-like, but with a splash of water, it morphs into beautiful caramel and almond Dewar’s 18 Years Old (Scotland; Bacardi notes. On the palate, it’s reminiscent of Bourbon, with 91 USA, Miami, FL); 40% abv, $80. For full lots of caramel and no smoke. This Highlands review see page 12. chameleon would pair well with a sticky toffee dessert.

Chivas Regal 18 Years (Scotland; Pernod Wemyss Malts Peat Chimney (Scotland; 90 Ricard USA, Purchase, NY); 40% abv, $75. 88 Wemyss Vintage Malts Ltd., Domaine Sweet, honeyed, caramel notes. The flavor is sweet, Select Wine Estates, New York, NY); 40% abv, with an astringent, citrusy note, and light smokiness $40. A pleasant mix of peated and honeyed floral aro- drifting on the finish. Mellow, viscous feel. mas. Brawny, smoky flavors come barreling in right away, but dissipate after a while, leaving a gentle honey Black Bull 40-year-old (Scotland; Anchor and clove finish. 90 Distilling, San Diego, CA); 40.2% abv, $240. Light amber. Smells like juicy apples, with a hint Clan Denny from Islay (Scotland; Interna- of vanilla. Expect lingering notes of smoke and caramel, 86 tional Spirits and Wines, Mt. Kisco, NY); with a brisk, mouthwatering finish. Best with a splash of 46% abv, $60. For peat-lovers only: The aroma on water. this light gold spirit is heavily peated and briny, not unlike breathing in cigar smoke, and there’s serious Johnnie Walker Black Label (Scotland; smoke on the palate too. Sure, there are some delicate 90 Diageo North America, Norwalk, CT); 40% heather-y notes underneath, but they are barely dis- abv, $34. This deep amber spirit, a blend of over 40 cernable beneath this overwhelming, traditional Islay whiskies, has a sweet, deeply caramel scent, with a tinge smoke bomb. of dried fruit. The flavor is oaky, smoky and dry; a little ice water mellows it nicely and coaxes out some burnt- Douglas XO (Scotland; International Spir- caramel and raisiny notes. Lingering, moderately smoky 85 its and Wines, Mt. Kisco, NY); 43% abv, finish. $40. Honey colored and mild. Look for a touch of sweetness, then some smoky and astringent, citrusy Wemyss Malts Smooth Gentleman (Scot- notes. Hot on the finish, consider adding ice water. 90 land; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY); 40% abv, $40. As the name suggests, this King Robert II (Scotland; Southeast Wine whisky is smooth indeed. Honeyed, light peat, and faint 84 and Spirits, Woodstock, GA); 40% abv, clove aromas, and flavors of burnt orange peel, dark $10. Smoky, spicy, lightly vegetal aroma, although given honey and a wisp of smoke on the finish. The fruity time to open up, more caramel notes break through. A notes suggest this would play well with vermouth in a little sweetness, a little smoke, relatively dry and clean Bobby Burns or Manhattan-style cocktail. finish. Repeated sips coax out more caramel notes. Try this in a whiskey sour-type drink. Clan Denny from Speyside (Scotland; 89 International Spirits and Wines, Mt. Kisco, NY); 46% abv, $60. Honey-colored and scented, with intriguingly delicate vanilla, wispy peat and floral notes. The flavor is surprisingly citrusy, with a strong alcohol sting on the finish. Although this whisky benefits from a splash of branchwater, keep a light hand. Too much dilution, and this Scotch loses its charm.

Cutty Sark (Scotland; Remy Cointreau, 89 New York, NY); 40% abv, $30. Outside of the green glass bottle, this Speyside blend is a soft, light gold. Toffee dominates the aroma, with a little smoke and citrus mixed in. On the palate, it’s sweet, light, caramelly, with a whiff of smoke on the finish, reminis- cent of some Irish whiskies. Very pleasant sipping.

WineMag.com | 73 BUYING I GUIDE

Beer THE WINE ENTHUSIAST BEER BUYING GUIDE

ALL HAIL PALE, BOLD AND BEAUTIFUL The Beer Buying Guide is a summary of recent detailed erriam-Webster Dictionary defines additions during the brewing process, and vividly evaluations and product ratings of a single reviewer, Assis- pale (adj) as deficient in color or inten- express the American hop varieties that are tant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo. Every tasting note is accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the full name of sity of color, not bright or brilliant, fee- employed. They are usually not overpowered by M the product, beer style, alcoholic strength expressed as ble, faint or deficient in chroma. Synonyms the hops, but instead are balanced with propor- percent alcohol by volume, producer’s name, and the sug- include dull, faded, light and washed-out. Pair tionate malts. English pale ales typically show gested/average U.S. retail price. If price cannot be con- that with the word ale, and instantly innocent more malt and caramel notes, softer English hop firmed, an $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for the bottle size or packaging indicated. drinkers assume that the resulting product is a variety profiles and less aggressive carbonation light, soft, easy-drinking selection of little inten- than American offerings. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS sity, complexity and character. In other words, Of course, the intensity of the beer depends Formal evaluation sessions occur in a professional tasting fizzy, pale yellow stuff. on the brewer, but flavorful and complex pale room. Beers are tasted alone; no formal reviews are ever For many pale ales, nothing could be further ales are available. They can be full of hop and conducted in the presence of any producer or industry representative. Samples are tasted blind in flights of no from the truth. For starters, they have a wide malt character while remaining crisp and bal- more than six products; the category being reviewed may range of color, from light gold to medium copper anced, exhibiting high drinkability and refresh- or may not be divulged. Price is not a factor in the evalua- and everything in between. And while they may ment. With alcohol ranging from 4–7% and a tion. not have the over-the-top character of their IPA pronounced but not overpowering profile, these brethren, pale ales are by no means lacking in brews are versatile pairing option for most meats ABOUT THE SCORES The numerical ratings correspond to quality in the flavor and character. and cheeses and perfect for entertaining. following manner: American versions typically have prominent Pale can be bold and beautiful, but above all, fruity, floral and citrus hop characteristics of vary- pale is always delicious Prost! Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. ing intensity either from dry hopping or later —LAUREN BUZZEO Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recom- Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery Pale Ale finish. The assertive citrus characteristics are kept in mended. 94 (English Pale Ale; Samuel Smith Old Brew- check by a clean malty core and cleansing carbonation. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; ery (Tadcaster), England); 5.0% abv, $4/550 ml. often good value. For full review see page 12. Southern Tier Pale (American Pale Ale; Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 91 Southern Tier Brewing Co., NY); 6.1% abv, critical circumstances. Three Floyds Alpha King Pale Ale (Ameri- $7/12 oz 6 pack. The name leads the way here with a 94 can Pale Ale; Three Floyds Brewing Co., light golden-yellow hue and soft aromas of juicy Certain beers are designated as Best Buys. Beers IN); 6.5% abv, $12/12 oz 6 pack. This beer pours clementine, hard stone fruit and a touch of pine. More earning this designation offer a high level of quality in deep amber in color with a tan head that lingers along- of the same unfolds on the remarkably crisp and relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or for- side a rim of lacing. The aromas definitely aren’t faint, refreshing palate, with a touch of astringency unfolding mulae for determining Best Buys. Cellar Selections are with serious wafts of citrus and herbal hops paired on the back of the mouth after a swallow. Balanced and beers that would be good candidates for cellaring. against a lightly caramelized malt backdrop. One sip satisfying; a perfect warm weather sipper. SUBMITTING BEERS FOR REVIEW and you’re hooked: the richness of the toasted malt core Beers should be submitted to Wine Enthusiast’s head- floods the mouth while the assertive but fine carbona- Ninkasi Radiant Summer Ale (American quarters at 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY tion cleans things up after a swallow. Balanced and con- Pale Ale; Ninkasi Brewing, OR); 6.0% abv, 90 10549. Inquiries and submissions should be addressed to centrated, with bitter hop and pine flavors lingering on $4/22 oz. An orangey amber color in the glass, this Lauren Buzzeo at [email protected]. There is the long finish. pale ale starts off with enticing aromas of floral hops, no charge for submitting beers, and Wine Enthusiast hard nectarine and a touch of grapefruit rind. The will make every effort to sample all beers submitted for Founders Dry Hopped Pale Ale (American malty core is countered with citrus pith and soft fresh review. There is, however, no guarantee that all submis- 92 Pale Ale; Founders Brewing, MI); 5.4% pine flavors, and the mouthfeel is rich and full but bal- sions will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the mag- abv, $10/12 oz 6 pack. A beaming apricot color in anced by moderate carbonation and a bready but azine. All submissions must be accompanied by a the glass with a slight haze, this balanced and flavorful assertively hop-infused finish. submission form, which may be downloaded from our pale ale is a stunner. The dry hopping worked its magic website. here, as assertive floral and grassy hop notes abound in Samuel Adams Pale Ale (American Pale the bouquet but balanced and approachable flavors 90 Ale; The Boston Beer Company, MA); LABELS unfold on the palate. Light weight with good carbona- 6.0% abv, $8/12 oz 6 pack. A rich but balanced pale Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their repre- tion; accents of juicy citrus and a touch of fresh pine ale that shows how harmonious a full, malty core and sentatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, needles stay through the close. strong hop characteristics can be. Creamy and round in which are reproduced and printed along the mouth with medium carbonation and flavors of with tasting notes and scores. For information on label Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (American Pale Ale; orange oil, sweet toasted egg bread, nectarine pit and a purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone 92 Sierra Nevada Brewing Company, CA); touch of fresh-cut grass. Everything works together at 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or e-mail 5.6% abv, $9/12 oz 6 pack. A definite classic, this is here, making this a very drinkable and crowd-pleasing [email protected]. one of the most iconic and recognizable craft beers out selection. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at there. The hops take center stage in the form of ripe buyingguide.winemag.com grapefruit peel, fading into a lingering resiny flavor Smuttynose Shoals Pale Ale (American accented with pine that stays through the mildly bitter 90 Pale Ale; Smuttynose Brewing Company, NH); 5.0% abv, $9/12 oz 6 pack. Here’s a robust

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 but clean pale ale with a slight sweetness that gives the impression of greater fullness and strength to the nose and mouth. Light amber with medium-intense aromas of caramel malt, ripe apricot, biscuit and pressed floral hops. A touch of toffee unfolds in the creamy but smooth mouth alongside the sweet grain and earthy hop core.

Ninkasi Spring Reign Ale (American Pale 89 Ale; Ninkasi Brewing, OR); 6.0% abv, $4/22 oz. This hazy gold-colored beer pours with a frothy white head and leaves a nice rim of lacing behind with each sip. Light aromas of clean malt and grass lead the way with glimmers of orange and white melon on the back. Surprising husky grain flavors dominate in the mouth, followed closely by a fair amount of astrin- gency on the dry finish.

Cable Car Small Batch Pale Ale (American 86 Pale Ale; Cable Car Brewing Co., NY); 5.3% abv, $7/12 oz 6 pack. Faint aromas of grassy hops, lemony citrus and fresh mint leaves add character to the otherwise bready malt core of this light orange brew. Easy drinking with a light, effervescent mouth and a clean grain finish. Balanced and refreshing; a nice choice for summertime.

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