BUYING GUIDE SEPTEMBER2011 Just inland from Croatia’s rocky Adriatic shoreline— and even on some of its islands—wine has been produced for centuries. 2 CENTRAL AND 46 CHILE EASTERN EUROPE 51 CALIFORNIA 18 GREECE 63 WASHINGTON 20 FRANCE 72 SPIRITS 26 ITALY 74 BEER 44 NEW ZEALAND WineMag.com | 1 BUYING I GUIDE Central and Eastern Europe EXPLORING LANDS OF ANCIENT TRADITIONS hile often overshadowed by the so- wines garnered our Best Buy designation. called traditional wine-producing Wines from these regions are still rare finds on Wcountries of France, Germany, Italy, restaurant menus or wine store shelves, but Portugal and Spain, winemaking throughout they’re gaining attention in some of the country’s Leonetti Cellar 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Central and Eastern Europe is deeply rooted, hottest restaurants and wine bars. In New York, 98 (Walla Walla Valley); $85. Dense, aromatic, stretching back centuries. Cold War geopolitics wine bars like Terroir serve Slovenian Riesling by layered and rich, this wine explodes from the glass with may prevent many Americans from being able to the glass, while the Italian restaurant Del Posto scents and flavors of concentrated berries, cassis, black identify Croatia, Slovenia or Romania on a map, offers Croatian Malvasia alongside others from cherry, and more. The vines have reached a mature but just spinning a globe east with a hand placed Friuli-Venezia-Giulia. stage that amplifies the fruit and keeps the generous barrel flavors in perfect balance. The barrel notes roll on southern France makes it clear how fitting And don’t overlook Greek wines, which have on in a chorus of toasty accents, and the finish is as each of their winemaking traditions are. achieved some commercial success in the United good in the last minute as the first whiff from the glass. Located just across the Adriatic from Italy, States, but are still far from being staples. With Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Croatia and Slovenia have been producing quality such grape varieties as Agiorgitiko, Assyrtico and wines from both indigenous and international Xinomavro, the labels can be intimidating, but grape varieties at a wide range of price points. In the unique flavors are worth experiencing. Wines Georgia, where archaeologists have unearthed from all of these countries, and more, are evidence of Neolithic winemaking as far back as reviewed in this Buying Guide. 8,000 years ago, the ancient tradition of macerat- Elsewhere in this issue, Italian Editor Monica ing grapes in clay vessels continues today. Larner looks at the 2007 Barolos, European Edi- Countries like Romania are producing quality tor Roger Voss offers a first glimpse of 2009 Bur- wines at an incredible value, even attracting the gundy and we have our usual rundown of the likes of the international négociant Cameron latest domestic releases. Hughes. In this issue alone, eight Romanian Enjoy! —ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA Rasa Vineyards 2008 Creative Impulse 97 DuBrul Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- Merlot (Yakima Valley); $95. A fine expression of the special strengths of the DuBrul vineyard. The fruit this Bordeaux-style red from Istria, but gain freshness is pure and juicy, a riot of blueberry, blackberry and CROATIA and verve from layers of bramble, menthol and fresh cassis. There is a focused thread of fresh herb and as herbs. Full bodied with exceptionally integrated tan- the nose expands the baking spices kick in beautifully. A RED WINES nins that are soft and round, it’s a big surprise at $13. wine to study and explore; it can continue to evolve for Imported by Tasty Wine Company. Best Buy. —A.I. hours, if not days. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Korta Katarina 2006 Plavac Mali (Peljeˇsac); 90 $38. For full review see page 10. Agrolaguna 2009 Castello Festigia (Istria); 87 $19. Indulgently rich on the nose and palate, Grgi´c Vina 2007 Plavac Mali (Peljeˇsac); $45. this intensely concentrated blend of Cab and Syrah is 89 A whopping 15.1% abv, this Plavac Mali (an full of ripe black fruit that melts into a coffee and ancestor of Zin) is certainly on the big and brawny side, chocolate-inflected midpalate. It’s not a dainty wine at but also reveals a complexity that evolves dramatically 13.7% abv, but velvety tannins, brisk acidity and an in the glass. Aromas of sun-dried hay and grass are earthy forest floor note on the finish adds balance and prevalent through the nose and palate, adding a rustic complexity. Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. quality to the sweet and spicy red fruit, fig and toast characteristics. The long finish is marked by an assertive Istravino 2007 Postup Donja Banda Plavac show of tannins. Imported by Vinum USA Inc. —A.I. 87 Mali (Peljeˇsac); $38. Undeniably rustic yet intriguing, this Plavac Mali is powerful on the nose and Agrolaguna 2009 Muˇskat Ruˇza (Istria); palate with aromas of overripened black fruit, freshly 88 $15. The rose petal aromas on this heady, ruby- harvested hay and alfalfa and an abundance of earthy Den Hoed 2007 Wallula Vineyards hued dessert Muˇskat Ruˇza, or Muscat Rosé wine, are so leather and mushroom notes. Significant aeration reveals 96 Andreas Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse pronounced, it’s almost overwhelming, but provide a a more feminine side with concentrated, dried black Heaven Hills); $80. Gilles Nicault, who oversees the rare and intriguing experience nonetheless. Semisweet cherry fruit, but one that’s still aggressive and tannic on Long Shadows portfolio, makes this pure Cabernet. If in style, the wine is rich and full bodied, dripping with the finish. Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. this had a Napa Valley label on it, it could sell for three rose petal jam, black cherry pie filling and a musky, times the price. The structure is full and fleshy, but dusty rose perfume that trails from start to finish. Piliˇzota 2007 Babi´c (North Dalmatia); $22. with the vividly bright fruit that screams Washington Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. 87 Pronounced aromas of charred wood are impos- State. Juicy acidity underscores the berries, cherries ing on the nose, but intense black fruit shines through and plums; the generously applied new oak adds texture Istravino 2008 De Mar Cuvée Zenon on the palate, taming char into a more palatable blend and layers of caramel, coconut and chocolate. A bottle 88 (Istria); $13. Juicy red plums and cherries, that belongs with Washington’s (and California’s) best. vanilla and smoke are pleasant on the nose and palate of Continued on page 16 Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 2|WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 Damilano 2007 Brunate (Barolo); $88. 94 Those with a fondness for bolder, denser expres- Marimar Estate 2007 Don Miguel Vine- sions of Barolo tend to select wines from the celebrated 95 yard Dobles Lías Chardonnay (Russian Brunate cru. Damilano makes one of the best wines Betz Family 2008 Père de Famille Caber- River Valley); $45. This is easily the richest, densest, from this special vineyard and the 2007 vintage defi- 95 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $60. most complex of Marimar’s 2007 Chardonnays. Made nitely proves the point. Lingering tones of blackberry, Seductive and complex, the inviting aromas mix with extended lees contact, it has a fleshy, yeasty black olive, red rose, chopped mint and root beer build incense, blueberries, cassis, licorice and threads of herb freshness that gives the wine extra layers. The grape in intensity in the mouth. Imported by Vias Imports. and graphite. Flavors are wrapped tightly and unfold flavors show typical Green Valley long hangtime notes Cellar Selection. —M.L. gracefully through a long finish. The herbal side of of exotic tropical fruits, apricots, pears, honey, but- Cabernet is noted without being intrusive. Classic, deep tered toast, crème brûlée and sweet baking spices, and expressive. Cellar Selection. —P.G. brightened with acidity. A luxurious, splendid Chardonnay to drink now. —S.H. Davis Family 2008 Cuvée Luke (Sierra 94 Foothills); $26. A beautiful, golden-colored Louis Latour 2009 Montrachet; $440. The blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier so lush no 95 grandest of all white Burgundy vineyards, Mon- Mark Ryan 2008 Dead Horse Red Wine bottle will go unfinished. Honey and honeysuckle aro- trachet has produced a powerful, great wine, with 95 (Red Mountain); $45. This is the first wine to mas are followed by plenty of pleasing peach and apri- impressive ripe, dense fruit. There is still elegance, a be blended each year, though it is not labeled a reserve. cot and the perfect amount of minerality to hold it all sense of proportion, but the opulence of the Chardon- The new vintage has amazing depth, running down together. Yum. —V.B. nay here is impossible to resist. Imported by Louis through a litany of red and black fruits, into veins of Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. earth and tannin and graphite, and finishing with densely textured barrel notes of toast, coffee and bitter chocolate. Beautifully proportioned, deep and cellar- worthy. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Marimar Estate 2007 Don Miguel Vine- 95 yard Cristina Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- Den Hoed 2006 Wallula Vineyards Marie’s ley); $49. Massive, flamboyantly rich, a real treasure 94 View (Horse Heaven Hills); $80. Bright and in the mouth. Just dazzles with the intensity of cher- dense, totally packed with dark fruits and aromas, this ries, black raspberries, Dr. Pepper, plums, sweet young and brambly blend brings tart, wild berry, cassis vanilla-scented sandalwood and a wild array of savory Betz Family 2008 Clos de Betz Red Wine and smoky espresso into play full force. There’s black spices. The wine is a small-production barrel selec- 94 (Columbia Valley); $48. Tight and precise, licorice also, coffee grounds, and powerful tannins, tion from the estate vineyard, which is in the heart of with sharply defined edges, this needs hours of breath- along with the acids to age.