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Charles Houston Papers

Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego Copyright 2014 9500 Gilman Drive La Jolla 92093-0175 [email protected] URL: http://libraries.ucsd.edu/collections/sca/index.html

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 1 Descriptive Summary Languages: English Contributing Institution: Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego 9500 Gilman Drive La Jolla 92093-0175 Title: Charles Houston Papers Identifier/Call Number: MSS 0716 Physical Description: 37 Linear feet(72 archives boxes, 6 record cartons, 2 card file boxes, and 1 flat box) Date (inclusive): 1906 - 2009 Abstract: The papers of Charles Houston, high altitude researcher and mountaineer, document his medical and high altitude expedition career from 1945-2009. The materials include correspondence, research from the Operation Everest I and II, high altitude medical research investigations, Peace Corps materials, writings, photographs and audiovisual materials. Biography Charles Snead Houston, born in 1913 in New York, was an American physician, mountaineer, high-altitude investigator, and former Peace Corps administrator. He was educated at Harvard University and earned a Doctor of Medicine from Columbia University College of Physicians and Surgeons. Houston practiced internal medicine in Exeter, New Hampshire and Aspen, Colorado. Later, he joined the faculty at the University of Vermont as Professor of Medicine. He retired from the faculty in 1979. In 1936, Houston was a member of an expedition led by the British climber H.W. Tilman to the top of Nanda Devi in India, the highest mountain climbed at that time. In 1938, he led the first American Karakoram expedition to K2. In 1953, he organized an expedition return to K2 and although he did not reach the summit, his party mapped a route to the summit that was accomplished by the Italian team in 1954. Houston published K2, the Savage Mountain (1954) about the expedition. Houston began his study of the effects of high altitude as a naval flight surgeon in World War II. He was in charge of Operation Everest (1947) in which four subjects were taken to a simulated altitude of 8850 m over 34 days in a compression chamber. The studies demonstrated that acclimatization would allow pilots to fly unpressurized planes to altitudes of 15,000 feet and higher. Houston continued similar studies of human biological responses at extreme simulated altitudes in the high altitude chamber during Operation Everest II in 1985. From 1962 to 1965, Houston served as the first Country Director of the Peace Corps for India under the directorship of Robert Sargent Shriver. He was instrumental in developing the medical doctors' division within the Corps. Additionally during the 1960s, Houston was involved with early attempts to construct an artificial heart. Consequently his designs influenced the design of the Jarvik artificial heart. Even after his mountaineering days of climbing discontinued, Houston continued the investigation of altitude sickness and was the first to document high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). The culmination of his work was executed on the grant funded research study on Mount Logan in the Yukon territory in Canada. Houston was the director of the Arctic Institute on Mount Logan in 1968. Additionally, Houston was a major benefactor for establishing the Colorado Altitude Research Institute (CARI), now known as the Altitude Research Center. Under the leadership of Dr. Houston, the institute studied how hypoxia affects health and performance and included the largest survey performed in the United States into incidences of acute mountain sickness. Charles Houston died on September 27, 2009 in Burlington, Vermont. Scope and Content of Collection The papers of Charles Houston, high altitude physiology researcher and mountaineer, relate to the medical research and investigation of high altitude climates and illnesses. Notable portions of the collection are Houston's studies of high altitude simulated environments: Operation Everest I and II, Mount Logan High Altitude Physiology Study, and the Mount Washington study. Houston's research resulted in numerous published books, mountaineering accounts, and writings. The papers also include correspondence, materials related to other significant mountain expeditions, professional affiliations documents, additional grant and research projects, and biographical materials. A modest portion of the collection represents Houston's tenure as the first Country Director for Peace Corps for India, as lead medical teaching doctor. The collection also includes audio and visual recordings, and digital media. The papers are arranged in ten series: 1) CORRESPONDENCE, 2) BIOGRAPHICAL MATERIALS, 3) PEACE CORPS OF INDIA, 4) HIGH ALTITUDE RESEARCH, 5) WRITINGS, 6) GRANTS AND RESEARCH, 7) LECTURES AND CONFERENCES, 8) PROFESSIONAL

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 2 AFFILIATIONS, 9) IMAGES AND RECORDINGS, and 10) DIGITAL MEDIA. Publication Rights Publication rights are held by the creator of the collection. Acquisition Information Acquired 2009. Preferred Citation Charles Houston Papers, MSS 716. Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego. OFF-SITE STORAGE COLLECTION STORED OFF-SITE. ALLOW ONE WEEK FOR RETRIEVAL OF MATERIALS. Restrictions Original audiovisual and digital media formats are restricted. Researchers may request user copies. Correspondence containing medical information in Boxes 19-20 and 71 is restricted until 2095. Processing Information A small selection of materials in the Charles Houston papers had significant water damage, therefore photocopy reproductions replace the originals in portions of the papers. Subjects and Indexing Terms Mountaineering -- Physiological aspects Altitude, Influence of Acclimatization Adaptation (Physiology) Houston, Charles S. -- Archives

CORRESPONDENCE Scope and Content of Series Series 1) CORRESPONDENCE. Arranged in two subseries: A) General Correspondence and B) Altitude Illness Case Records. A) General Correspondence: Houston's incoming and outgoing correspondence with researchers in the fields of high altitude medicine and cardiology, family members, colleagues, and researchers. Arranged alphabetically by correspondent. B) Altitude Illness Case Records: Correspondence related to various studies in which Houston either participated or consulted. These letters contain medical information and are restricted until 2095.

General Correspondence

Box 1, Folder 1 Aarseth, Sverre 1980-1982 Box 1, Folder 2 Abrams, Herbert 1972-1973 Box 1, Folder 3 Adams, Connie 2005 Box 1, Folder 4 Ader, Robert 2001-2006 Box 1, Folder 5 Ahmed, Durie 2004-2005 Box 1, Folder 6 Alda, Alan 1977-1979 Box 1, Folder 7 Allman, William 1983 Box 1, Folder 8 Altman, Peter 1987 Box 1, Folder 9 Ament, Pat 1987-1989 Box 1, American Alpine Club 1973-2002 Folder 10-12 Box 1, Folder 13 Anantharamakrishnan, S. 1963-1964 Box 1, Folder 14 Anderson, Eric 1979-1984 Box 1, Folder 15 Anderson, J.R.L. 1979-1981 Box 1, Folder 16 Anderson, Lester 1980

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 3 CORRESPONDENCE General Correspondence

Box 1, Folder 17 Anderson, Maxie 1981-1982 Box 1, Folder 18 Anholm, James 1979-1982 Box 1, Folder 19 Armstrong, E. (Army) 1983-2002 Box 1, Folder 20 Armstrong, Victoria 1983-1989 Box 1, Folder 21 Axelrod, Shirli 1979 Box 1, Folder 22 A - Miscellaneous Box 2, Folder 1 Babcock, Henry H. 1978-2002 Box 2, Folder 2 Backus, Verne 1988-1989 Box 2, Folder 3 Baekeland, Brooks 1988 Box 2, Folder 4 Bakewell, Anderson 1985-1986 Box 2, Folder 5 Bangs, Cameron 1976-1983 Box 2, Folder 6-7 Barry Family (Em, Anne, Helen) 1981-2002 Box 2, Folder 8 Bates, Robert 1995-2008 Box 2, Folder 9 Baume, Louis 1980-1984 Box 2, Folder 10 Beal, Chris 2004-2006 Box 2, Folder 11 Beal, Janet 2003-2006 Box 2, Folder 12 Becker, E. Lovell (Stretch) 1979-1981 Box 2, Folder 13 Belle, Aimee 1984-1989 Box 2, Folder 14 Benedict, Fabienne 1984-1988 Box 2, Folder 15 Berle, Beatrice 1988 Box 2, Folder 16 Bezruchka, Stephen 1983-2002 Box 2, Folder 17 Bishop, Barry 1988 Box 2, Folder 18 Bland, John 1962-1997 Box 2, Folder 19 Bligh, John 1981-1985 Box 2, Folder 20 Blount, Gilbert 1962-1975 Box 2, Folder 21 Blount, Rick 2003-2004 Box 2, Folder 22 Bogan, B.P. 1981-1983 Box 2, Folder 23 Bortz, Walter 1984 Box 69, Folder 1 Bourne, Chris 1979 Box 2, Folder 24 Bowman, Warren D. 1982-1988 Box 2, Folder 25 Boyle, John 1982-1988 Box 3, Folder 1 Bragdon, Pete 1961-2006 Box 3, Folder 2 Brandes, Gertrud 1999 Box 3, Folder 3 Britton, John 1989 Box 69, Folder 2 Brown, Thomas Graham 1935-1936 Box 3, Folder 4 Bruce, Jeanette 1976-1977 Box 3, Folder 5 Buhler, Carlos 1983-2002 Box 3, Folder 6 Buick, Fred 1982 Box 3, Folder 7 Burack, Nelson 1986 Box 3, Folder 8 Burchell, Howard B. 1981-1984 Box 3, Folder 9 Burki, Dius 1993 Box 3, Folder 10 Burlington Free Press 1977-2003 Box 3, Folder 11 Burns, Barry 1980-1983 Box 3, B - Miscellaneous Folder 12-14 Box 69, Folder 3-4 B - Miscellaneous Box 4, Folder 1 Carroll, Steve 1983 Box 4, Folder 2 Carter, H. Adams 1970-1980 Box 4, Folder 3 Castle, Frank 1988 Box 4, Folder 4 Child, Marilyn 1976-2002 Box 4, Folder 5 Clarke, Charles 1975-1983 Box 4, Folder 6 Clinch, Nicholas B. 1981-2002 Box 69, Folder 5 Coburn, Broughton 1997 Box 69, Folder 6 Colorado Rocky Mountain School 1973-1975 Box 4, Folder 7 Comlay, Bob 2001-2002 Box 4, Folder 8 Conrad, Richard J. 2000-2001 Box 4, Folder 9 Costelle, Daniel 1979-1981 Box 4, Folder 10 Cowles, Elizabeth 1950

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 4 CORRESPONDENCE General Correspondence

Box 4, Folder 11 Crawford, Ian 1972 Box 4, Folder 12 Cross, Leroy 1974-1975 Box 4, Folder 13 Crouch, Dee 1963-1980 Box 4, Folder 14 Cudabeck, David 1982-1983 Box 69, Folder 7 Cummings, Peter 1979-1981 Box 4, Folder 15 Cummings, Peter 1981-1989 Box 4, Folder 16 Cummings, Stanley 1979-1986 Box 4, Folder 17 Cuttler, Clive 1984-1988 Box 4, Folder 18 C - Miscellaneous Box 5, Folder 1 C - Miscellaneous Box 69, Folder 8 C - Miscellaneous Box 5, Folder 2 Darvill, Fred 1987-1988 Box 5, Folder 3 Daugen, Fred 1974-1975 Box 5, Folder 4 Davis, Deane 1972-1973 Box 5, Folder 5 Davis, H.E. 1984 Box 5, Folder 6 Davis, Pamela 1987-2002 Box 5, Folder 7 Dea, Peter 1981-1982 Box 5, Folder 8 Desio, Ardito 1972-1988 Box 5, Folder 9-10 Dickenson, John 1972-1983 Box 5, Folder 11 Dill, Bruce 1979-1984 Box 5, Folder 12 Dow, Russ and Rusty 1982-1987 Box 5, Folder 13 Dreyfus, Jack 1987-1988 Box 69, Folder 9 Dreyfus, Jack 1976-1985 Box 5, Folder 14 Drummond, Alex. Includes images of Alex Drummond and Ron Cox rescue 1990-1995 Box 5, Folder 15 D - Miscellaneous Box 69, D - Miscellaneous Folder 10-11 Box 5, Folder 16 Echevarria, Emilio 1981-1985 Box 5, Folder 17 Eiseman, Ben 1962-1986 Box 6, Folder 1 Engle, Dean. Includes "Talus: A Scrapbook History of Dartmouth Mountaineering Club" 1992 Box 6, Folder 2 Evans, Patricia Box 6, Folder 3 E - Miscellaneous Box 6, Folder 4 Fabian, Georgene and Rick 2002 Box 6, Folder 5 Farquhar, Francis 1951 Box 6, Folder 6 Feins, Steve and Anita 1976-1979 Box 69, Folder 12 Filley, Giles 1980-1981 Box 6, Folder 7 Finlay, Alexis 1977 Box 6, Folder 8 Fisher, James F. 1987-1989 Box 6, Folder 9 Flanagan, Latham 1979-1984 Box 6, Folder 10 Foege, William 1977-2005 Box 6, Folder 11 Foster, Tiah 1981-1985 Box 6, Folder 12 Frayser, Regina 1970-1975 Box 6, Folder 13 Froelicher, F. Charles 1976-2006 Box 6, Folder 14 F - Miscellaneous Box 69, Folder 13 F - Miscellaneous Box 6, Folder 15 Galbraith, John Kenneth 1981-1987 Box 6, Folder 16 Gamow, Igor R. 1985-1988 Box 6, Folder 17 Gardiner, Steve 1990 Box 7, Folder 1 Glen, David A. 2007 Box 7, Folder 2 Goodwin-Kueffner, Carolyn 2002-2003 Box 70, Folder 1 Gray, Gary 1980-1981 Box 7, Folder 3 Green, Peter 1998-2002 Box 7, Folder 4 Gressley, Gene M. 1975-1985 Box 7, Folder 5 Griffith, Stan 1975-1979 Box 70, Folder 2 Grose, Jack and Bobby 1984-1985 Box 7, Folder 6 Grose, Susan 2001-2002

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 5 CORRESPONDENCE General Correspondence

Box 7, Folder 7 Grover, Robert 1975-1980 Box 7, Folder 8 Gundel, Walter 1981-1982 Box 7, Folder 9-10 G - Miscellaneous Box 70, Folder 3 G - Miscellaneous Box 7, Hackett, Peter 1975-2008 Folder 11-12 Box 8, Folder 1 Halsted, James A. 1975-1980 Box 8, Folder 2 Hamid, Shahid 1979-1989 Box 8, Folder 3 Hanson, Bob 1980 Box 8, Folder 4 Hanson, Dennis and Bo 1982-2002 Box 70, Folder 4 Harken, Dwight 1971-1975 Box 8, Folder 5 Harlin, John 2002 Box 70, Folder 5 Hartberg, Peter - Includes "Limits to Growth" seminar 1980 Box 8, Folder 6 Hartlin, Edmund M. 1982-1983 Box 8, Folder 7 Hartzog, George B. 1986 Box 8, Folder 8 Heiling, Dot 2002 Box 8, Folder 9 Heilman, Richard S. 1983-1985 Box 8, Folder 10 Herzog, Maurice 1975-1983 Box 8, Folder 11 Hillary, Sir Edmund Box 8, Hodes, Rick 1993 - 2007 Folder 12-13 Box 70, Folder 6 Holdsworth, Gerald 1997 Box 8, Folder 14 Hollister, William H. 1975-1977 Box 70, Folder 7 Holzel, Tom 1960-1979 Box 8, Folder 15 Holzel, Tom 1980 - 2002 Box 8, Folder 16 Hixson, Edward G. 1962-2007 Box 70, Folder 8 Horiuchi, Akio 1981-1983 Box 8, Folder 17 Hornbein, Tom 1975-2007 Box 70, Folder 9 Hornbein, Tom. Includes draft of History of Altitude Sickness 1997 Box 9, Folder 1 House, William P. 1979-1989 Box 9, Folder 2 Houston, C. Stuart 1977-1978 Box 9, Folder 3 Houston, Dorcas 1948-1956 Box 9, Folder 4 Houston family 1962-1972 Box 9, Folder 5 Houston, Ned 1983 Box 9, Folder 6 Houston, Nelly 1954-1974 Box 9, Folder 7 Houston, Oscar S. 1932-1979 Box 9, Folder 8 Howe, Fisher 2006-2008 Box 9, Folder 9 Howorth, Beckett 1977-1982 Box 9, Folder 10 Hubbell, Charles 1975-1989 Box 9, Folder 11 Huber, J. Parker 1978 Box 9, Folder 12 Huey, Raymond B. 1996-2003 Box 9, Folder 13 Huggins, Gail E. 1982 Box 9, Folder 14 Hultgren, Herbert 1975 - 1979 Box 70, Folder 10 Hultgren, Herbert 1995-1997 Box 9, Folder 15 Hurtado, Alberto 1976-1983 Box 9, H - Miscellaneous Folder 16-17 Box 70, Folder 11 H - Miscellaneous Box 10, Folder 1 Ingelfinger, Franz J. 1976-1978 Box 10, Folder 2 Innes-Taylor, Alan 1975-1976 Box 10, Folder 3 Isserman, Maurice 2005-2008 Box 10, Folder 4 Ives, Jack (International Mountain Society) 1981-1986 Box 10, Folder 5 I - Miscellaneous Box 70, Folder 12 Jacobs, Sonia 1986-1987 Box 10, Folder 6 Jaffe, Robert M. 1984-1985 Box 10, Folder 7 Jarris, Paul 1983 Box 10, Folder 8 Jeffords, James 1978-2002 Box 10, Folder 9 Jessup, Adaline and Bruce 1976-1989

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 6 CORRESPONDENCE General Correspondence

Box 10, Folder 10 Johl, Ernst 1963 Box 10, Folder 11 Jones, David 1977-1985 Box 10, Folder 12 Jordan, Jennifer 2001-2009 Box 10, Folder 13 Jouty, Sylvain 1980-1989 Box 10, Folder 14 Jukes, Thomas H. 1981-1982 Box 10, Folder 15 J - Miscellaneous Box 70, Folder 13 J - Miscellaneous Box 10, Folder 16 Kamler, Kenneth M. 2002 Box 10, Folder 17 Kauffman, Andrew J. 1979-1983 Box 10, Folder 18 Kaul, Sanjiv 1977 Box 10, Folder 19 Keaveny, Michael 1982-1987 Box 10, Folder 20 Keller, Gary D. 2007 Box 10, Folder 21 Kennedy, Alasdair 2005-2006 Box 10, Folder 22 Kessler, Gary 1978-1981 Box 11, Folder 1 Kizer, Ken 1982-1984 Box 11, Folder 2 Kleppner, Bran 1988 Box 11, Folder 3 Knowles, John H. 1974-1977 Box 11, Folder 4 Kochalka, John 1984 Box 11, Folder 5 Koeslag, Johan H. 1981-1983 Box 11, Folder 6 Kohli, Harish 1983 Box 70, Folder 14 Korf, Richard 1991 Box 11, Folder 7 Krause, William L. 1988-1989 Box 11, Folder 8 Krishnan, G. Gopala 1976-1984 Box 11, Folder 9 K - Miscellaneous Box 11, Folder 10 Lawrence, David 1983 Box 11, Folder 11 Ledoux, Louis Pierre 1965 Box 11, Folder 12 Leighty, Forest 1989 Box 11, Folder 13 Leoppky, Jack 1988 Box 11, Folder 14 L'etang, Hugh 1983-1985 Box 11, Folder 15 Levine, Ben 1988 Box 11, Folder 16 Lim, Albert 1987-1988 Box 11, Folder 17 Lipow, Herman 1982 Box 11, Folder 18 Lister, Chris 1980-1987 Box 11, Folder 19 Little, William 1988-1989 Box 11, Folder 20 Livingston, Katherine S. 2004-2005 Box 11, Folder 21 Lloyd, Peter 1974-1992 Box 11, Folder 22 Logsdon, Mark J. 1975 Box 11, Folder 23 Loomis, Sabra 2005 Box 11, Folder 24 Lopp, Oscar 1994-2002 Box 70, Folder 15 Lopp, Oscar - Mountain Medicine Institute 1990-1994 Box 11, Folder 25 Lord, Sterling 1981 Box 11, Folder 26 Lounsbury, Dave 2001-2002 Box 11, Folder 27 Lowrance, William 1986 Box 11, Folder 28 Lowy, Jed 1979-1980 Box 11, Folder 29 Luft, Ulrich C. 1960-1975 Box 11, Folder 30 L - Miscellaneous Box 12, Folder 1 L - Miscellaneous Box 12, Folder 2 Malone, Patrick T. 1995-1996 Box 12, Folder 3 Mason, Benjamin L. 1985 Box 12, Folder 4 McConnell, Page 2002-2003 Box 12, Folder 5 McDonald, Ann C. 1975-1981 Box 12, Folder 6 McKhann, Charles F. 1975-1981 Box 12, Folder 7 McNamara, Robert S. 1983-2006 Box 12, Folder 8 Mellor, Norman 1985-1989 Box 12, Folder 9 Menon, N.D. 1983-1990 Box 12, Folder 10 Merck Research Laboratories 2001-2002 Box 12, Folder 11 Meyer, Eric F. 1989-2008 Box 12, Folder 12 Milledge, J.S. 1975-2002

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 7 CORRESPONDENCE General Correspondence

Box 12, Folder 13 Miller, Katherine 2004-2005 Box 12, Mistral Films 2000-2001 Folder 14-15 Box 70, Folder 16 Mohr, Lawrence 1995-1997 Box 12, Folder 16 Molenarr, Colleen and Dee 1975-2008 Box 12, Folder 17 Moomey, Marjorie M. 1983-1989 Box 12, Folder 18 Mooney, Blake 1991-1992 Box 12, Folder 19 Moore, Patricia 2000-2002 Box 12, Folder 20 Moore, Terris 1985-1987 Box 12, Folder 21 Morrissey, James D. 1982-1984 Box 12, Folder 22 Morrison, Louise 2001-2003 Box 13, Folder 1 Mortenson, Greg and Chrissey Slaughter 2000-2002 Box 13, Folder 2 Moundalexis, Athena 1988-1989 Box 13, Folder 3-5 Moyers, Bill 1983-2007 Box 13, Folder 6 M - Miscellaneous Box 13, Folder 7 Mc - Miscellaneous Box 13, Folder 8 Nakashima, Michiro 1998-2002 Box 13, Folder 9 Nakashima, Yoko 2003 Box 13, Folder 10 Nanavati, J.C. 1987 Box 13, Folder 11 Napolitano, Timmy 2001-2002 Box 14, Folder 1 National Geographic Magazine 1975-1986 Box 70, Folder 17 National Science Foundation Antarctic Program 1987 Box 14, Folder 2 Naylor, Wally 1981 Box 14, Folder 3 Neville, Emily C. 1981 Box 14, Folder 4 New Yorker 1982-1985 Box 14, Folder 5 Nichols, Ken 1976-1982 Box 14, Folder 6 Nilgiris Adivasi Welfare Association 1976-1999 Box 14, Folder 7 Ning, Xue-Han 1982-2003 Box 14, Folder 8 Nolan, Jerome T. 1987-2004 Box 14, Folder 9 N - Miscellaneous Box 14, Folder 10 Odell, Noel 1975-1985 Box 14, Folder 11 Oelz, Oswald 1987-1988 Box 14, Folder 12 Olek, Jacques 1983 Box 14, Folder 13 Oliver, Charles D. 1978-1979 Box 14, Folder 14 Orr, Wally 1989-1990 Box 14, Folder 15 Otsuka, Nayumi 1998-2004 Box 14, Folder 16 Outward Bound 1982-1988 Box 14, Folder 17 O - Miscellaneous Box 14, Folder 18 Pace, Nello 1957 Box 14, Folder 19 Paepcke, Walter 1988 Box 14, Folder 20 Parker, Steve 1984-1985 Box 14, Folder 21 Parkinson, Richard P. 1981-1982 Box 14, Folder 22 Parson, William 1987-1988 Box 14, Folder 23 Patient Care 1982 Box 14, Folder 24 Paton, Bruce 1976-2000 Box 15, Folder 1 Paton, Patricia 2001-2003 Box 15, Folder 2 Patterson, Bill 2001-2002 Box 71, Folder 1 Pincus, Rebecca 1997 Box 15, Folder 3 Pizzo, Christopher 1982-1986 Box 15, Folder 4 Porzak, Glenn E. 1976-1990 Box 15, Folder 5 Potter, Clarkson 1980-1981 Box 15, Folder 6 Preston, Mary 1957 Box 15, Folder 7 Prioreschi, Plinio 2002-2006 Box 15, Folder 8 P - Miscellaneous Box 15, Folder 9 Quick, Colleen 2002 Box 15, Folder 10 Q - Miscellaneous Box 15, Folder 11 Rahn, Hermann 1984-1987 Box 15, Folder 12 Rainer, W. Gerald (Denver Clinic) 1965-1966

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 8 CORRESPONDENCE General Correspondence

Box 15, Folder 13 Rennie, Drummond 1971-2006 Box 71, Folder 2 Richalet, Jean-Paul 1993-1997 Box 15, Folder 14 Ritchie, Stephen 1993-1994 Box 15, Folder 15 Roach, Robert 1992-2005 Box 15, Folder 16 Roberts, Gilbert 1975-1987 Box 15, Folder 17 Robertson, David 1985-1987 Box 15, Folder 18 Russell, George 2004-2007 Box 15, Folder 19 Ryn, Zdzislaw 1980-1986 Box 15, Folder 20 R - Miscellaneous Box 16, Folder 1 Sacco, Frank and Jenny 1984-1988 Box 16, Folder 2 Schoene, Robert B. 2002 Box 16, Folder 3 Schoening, Peter 1953-2004 Box 16, Folder 4 Scudder, Richard 1978-1998 Box 16, Folder 5 Serra, Joseph B. 1983 Box 16, Folder 6 Severinghaus, John 1981-2005 Box 16, Folder 7 Shriver, Robert Sargent, Jr. 1972-1973 Box 16, Folder 8 Silva, William 1984-2002 Box 16, Folder 9 Silverstein, Sam 1979-1987 Box 16, Folder 10 Singh, Inder 1970-1974 Box 71, Folder 3 Smith, Barry 1985-1986 Box 16, Folder 11 Smith, Richmond W. 1976-1987 Box 71, Folder 4 Smithsonian Magazine 1996 Box 16, Folder 12 Snelling, Richard A. 1977-1984 Box 16, Folder 13 Staum, Barry 1980-1981 Box 16, Folder 14 Stevens, Philip (National Association of the 10th Mountain Division) 1985-1989 Box 16, Folder 15 Stewart, Michael 1979-1983 Box 16, Folder 16 Stitham, Sean 1983 Box 16, Folder 17 Stone, John C. 1981-2007 Box 16, Folder 18 Stone, Kevin Robert 1976-1980 Box 16, Folder 19 Steele, Peter 1975-2002 Box 16, Folder 20 Streather, Tony 1978-1998 Box 17, Folder 1 Sturgis, Warren 1983-1989 Box 17, Folder 2-3 Sutton, John 1971-1989 Box 71, Folder 5 Sutton, John 1980-1982 Box 71, Folder 6 Sutton, John 1986-1992 Box 17, Folder 4 Swetland, David and Timmy 1976-1986 Box 17, Folder 5 Szygula, Zbigniew 1984-1987 Box 17, Folder 6 S - Miscellaneous Box 17, Folder 7 Talbott, John 1979 Box 17, Folder 8 Terris, Milton 1982-1983 Box 17, Folder 9 Thexton, Pete 1982-1983 Box 17, Folder 10 Thexton, Robina 1984-1985 Box 17, Folder 11 Thomas, Lowell 1973-1981 Box 17, Folder 12 Thompson, Warren C. 1983-1984 Box 71, Folder 7 Tilman, Harold William 1972-1974 Box 17, Folder 13 Tkatchouk, Elena 2002-2006 Box 17, Folder 14 T - Miscellaneous Box 71, Folder 8 University of Vermont - Department of Community Medicine 1966-1971 Box 17, Folder 15 U - Miscellaneous Box 17, Folder 16 Venables, Stephen 1988-2003 Box 71, Folder 9 Vosk, Arno 1974-1977 Box 17, Folder 17 V - Miscellaneous Box 17, Folder 18 Ward, Michael 1975-1976 Box 17, Folder 19 Washburn, Bradford 1979-2006 Box 17, Folder 20 Watanabe, Jennifer 2003-2005 Box 17, Folder 21 Waterman, Johnathan 1983-1989 Box 17, Folder 22 Waterman, Laura 1984-2004 Box 17, Folder 23 Weiss, Daniel 2002-2004

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 9 CORRESPONDENCE General Correspondence

Box 18, Folder 1 West, John 2000-2001 Box 18, Folder 2 Westmacott, Sally 1975-1983 Box 18, Folder 3 Wheeler, Henry 1982 Box 18, Folder 4 Wheelock, Naomi and Larry Yohn 1982-1983 Box 18, Folder 5 Wickwire, James 1980-1987 Box 18, Folder 6 Whitner, Sara 2007 Box 18, Folder 7 Wiedman, Michael 1987-2003 Box 18, Folder 8 Wilkerson, Jim 1995-2007 Restrictions Includes floppy disc.

Box 18, Folder 9 Williams, Andy 1984-2006 Box 18, Folder 10 Williamson, Jed 1984-2007 Box 18, Folder 11 Wilson, Rodman 1977-1989 Box 18, Folder 12 Wiltsie, Gordon 1999 Box 18, Folder 13 Winkler, Ken 1984-1989 Box 71, Folder 10 Wohns, Richard 1984 Box 18, Folder 14 Wortsman, Peter 2002-2006 Box 18, Folder 15 Wroblewski, Lech 1978-1984 Box 18, Folder 16 W- Miscellaneous Box 18, Folder 17 Yarmolinsky, Adam 1968 Box 18, Folder 18 Yoshizawa, Ichiro 1975-1978 Box 18, Folder 19 Yosemite National Institute 2004-2007 Box 18, Folder 20 Young, Michael 1977-1988 Box 18, Folder 21 Yoder, Ruth 1981-1990 Box 18, Folder 22 Zheng, Zhao 1992-1993 Box 18, Folder 23 X-Z - Miscellaneous Box 71, Folder 11 Miscellaneous. Odell, Tilman, Loomis, Emmons, Hogkin, and Graham Brown diaries 1945 Box 71, Folder 12 Miscellaneous. Nanda Devi 1929-1948 Box 18, Folder 24 Unidentified

Altitude Illness Case Records

Box 19, Folder 1-4 Numbers, 1-132 Conditions Governing Access Restrictions apply.

Box 19, Folder 5 Part 1 1977-2000 Conditions Governing Access Restrictions apply.

Box 20, Folder 1 Part 2 1977-2000 Conditions Governing Access Restrictions apply.

Box 20, Folder 2 Case studies - Kenya 1972-1982 Conditions Governing Access Restrictions apply.

Box 20, Folder 3 Alvin DeMaria case study 1973-1977 Conditions Governing Access Restrictions apply.

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 10 CORRESPONDENCE Altitude Illness Case Records

Box 20, Folder 4 Cold injury - Patrick Kilfeather case study 1971-1974 Conditions Governing Access Restrictions apply.

Box 71, Folder 13 Colorado altitude illness cases 1972-1993 Conditions Governing Access Restrictions apply.

Box 20, Folder 5 Lance Elwell case study 1978-1979 Conditions Governing Access Restrictions apply.

Box 20, Folder 6 Ron Russell case study. Herbert Hultgren consultant 1990 Conditions Governing Access Restrictions apply.

Box 20, Folder 7-8 Shawn Wight case study and deposition 1977-2000 Conditions Governing Access Restrictions apply.

Box 21, Folder 1-2 Women climbers BIOGRAPHICAL MATERIALS Scope and Content of Series Series 2) BIOGRAPHICAL MATERIALS: Newspaper articles featuring Houston, photographs, biographies, and memorabilia. Arranged alphabetically.

Box 21, Folder 3 Articles about Charles Houston Box 21, Folder 4-5 Awards and degree certificates 1935-2006 General Includes correspondence and photographs.

Oversize FB-529, Awards and degree certificates 1931-2003 Folder 1-2 Box 71, Folder 14 Awards and degree certificates - King Albert Medal of Merit 1996-1997 General Includes correspondence.

Box 21, Folder 6 Calendars 1994-1997 Box 21, Folder 7 Houston family genealogy Box 21, Folder 8 Maie Bowle 2001-2008 Box 22, Folder 1 Mount Everest memorabilia Photographs Box 22, Folder 2 Charles Houston Box 22, Folder 3 Charles Houston with others Oversize FB-529, Charles Houston group photographs 1939 and undated Folder 3 Box 22, Folder 4 Family Box 22, Folder 5 Visit to Italy with Kiely Houston Box 22, Folder 6 United State Naval Air Station, Jacksonville 1942 Box 72, Folder 1 University of Vermont, College of Medicine - Curriculum writings 1967-1970 Box 72, Folder 2-3 University of Vermont, Multi-Problem Family student program "Environment and Health" 1974-1976 Box 22, Folder 7 United States Navy - Separation papers 1941-1950

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 11 PEACE CORPS OF INDIA

PEACE CORPS OF INDIA Scope and Content of Series Series 3) PEACE CORPS OF INDIA: Charles Houston was the director of the Volunteer Doctor Program for the Peace Corps of India from 1962-1965. The files represent correspondence, personal notebooks, field reports, photographs, and various publications from the program.

Box 22, Folder 8 Chowkidar Newsletter and other writing 1963-1964 Correspondence Box 22, 1961-1969 Folder 9-10 Box 23, Folder 1-2 1974-1989 Box 23, Folder 3 Letters to friends 1963-1965 Box 72, Folder 4-5 Letters to friends 1966-1970 Box 23, Folder 4 Doctor's meetings and conferences 1964-1966 Box 23, Folder 5 India Overseas Evaluation March 31, 1965 Box 23, Folder 6 Midterm Conference Report May 1966 Box 23, Folder 7 News Circle 1961-1964 Box 24, Folder 1 Notebooks 1965-1966 Box 24, Folder 2 Original personal reports of India I and II volunteers 1963-1964 Photographs Box 24, Folder 3 Ben Gates, Roorkee, India - Toyshop, New Delhi 1964 Box 24, Folder 4 John Kenneth Galbraith, United States Ambassador to India 1965 Box 24, Folder 5-8 Miscellaneous 1965 Box 24, Folder 9 Public health services map of Nepal Box 24, Folder 10 Session reports 1964 Box 25, Folder 1 Speeches, publications, and other writings 1965 Box 72, Folder 6 Speech 1975 Box 25, Folder 2 Three-month work reports October-December, 1963 Box 25, Folder 3 Travel schedules 1962-1964 HIGH ALTITUDE RESEARCH Scope and Content of Series Series 4) HIGH ALTITUDE RESEARCH. Arranged in four subseries: A) Operation Everest I, B) Operation Everest II, C) Mount Logan High Altitude Physiology Study, and D) Other. A) Operation Everest I: Operation Everest I (1963-1965) was a research experiment facilitated by the United States Naval Air Station while Houston was stationed in Pensacola, Florida. The long-range study recorded the effects of high altitude acclimation on humans in a simulated environment. The Navy later published the findings in several reports. The materials include correspondence, articles, photographs, and reports. B) Operation Everest II: In 1985, Charles Houston, along with John Sutton and Allen Cymerman, conducted a high altitude medical experiment at the United States Army Research Institute for Environmental Medicine (USARIEM) altitude chambers in Natick, Massachusetts. The project studied human responses to a simulated 40-day ascent of Mt. Everest, facilitating a large number of investigations across several organ systems. The materials include correspondence over the course of several years, planning documents, data documentation, photographs, and publications. C) Mount Logan High Altitude Physiology Study: The study was initiated by Houston and supported by the Arctic Institute of North America, lasting over several decades. The research investigated the process of human acclimation to high altitude on Canada's highest peak, Mount Logan, in the Yukon Territory. The materials include the grant proposals, correspondence, research data and reports, and photographs. D) Other: Houston conducted several other research experiments on high altitude, including the Mount Washington High Altitude and Hypoxia Project and the Icefield Ranges Research Project. This subseries also contains bulletins and correspondence related to the American Alpine Club expedition to the Karakorum summit in Mongolia.

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 12 HIGH ALTITUDE RESEARCH Operation Everest I

Operation Everest I

Box 25, Folder 4 Acclimation Project - Research no. x-720, Naval Air Station, Pensacola, Florida 1946 Box 26, Folder 1 Acclimation Project - Research no. 720 - Notes 1946 Box 26, Folder 2 Army Air Forces of Aviation Medicine - Project reports 1944-1945 Box 26, Folder 3 Aviator's Flight log book 1942 Box 26, Folder 4 Booklet 1946 Box 26, Folder 5 Charts and tables 1946 Box 26, Folder 6 Correspondence 1943-1986 Box 26, Folder 7 News clippings 1946 Box 26, Folder 8 Operation Everest and Reports - Emergency Breathing Procedures, Hyperventilation Runs, Deaths from Anoxia in Aircraft 1944-1947 Box 26, Folder 9 Photographs 1946 Box 26, Folder 10 Published articles 1946-1948 Box 27, Folder 1 Reports and observations 1945-1946

Operation Everest II

Box 27, Folder 2 Advisory Committee 1982-1985 Box 27, Folder 3 "Alveolar and Arterial Blood Gases at Extreme Altitude" - Draft 1987-1988 Box 27, Folder 4 Biomedical Studies during a Simulated Ascent of Mount Everest, December 1991 Correspondence Box 27, Folder 5 1982 1982 Box 28, Folder 1-2 1983-1989 Box 72, Folder 7 1991-1996 Box 28, Folder 3 Database 1986-1989 Box 28, Folder 4-5 Financial 1985-1988 Box 28, Folder 6 Foundation 1984-1988 Participant Box 28, Folder 7 Alexander, James 1982-1986 Box 28, Folder 8 Andracki, Stephen 1983-1987 Box 29, Folder 1-4 Anholm, Jim 1982-1990 Box 29, Folder 5 Banderet, Louis E Box 29, Folder 6 Bangs, Peter 1985-1987 Box 29, Folder 7 Billip, Jim 1983-1985 Box 29, Folder 8 Blume, Duane 1983-1984 Box 29, Folder 9 Butzier, Douglas 1983 Box 29, Folder 10 Campaigne, Barbara 1983-1984 Box 29, Folder 11 Carter, Jonathan Box 29, Folder 12 Coates, Geoffre Box 29, Folder 13 Cymerman, Al Box 30, Folder 1 Cymerman, Al and John Sutton 1983-1985 Box 30, Folder 2 Degnan, Peter 1983-1985 Box 30, Folder 3 Devine, James A Box 30, Folder 4 Donner, Howard Box 72, Folder 8 Drummond, Rennie 1973-1974 Box 30, Folder 5 Ezekiel, Pat 1982-1983 Box 30, Folder 6 Fitzgerald, Patricia 1983 Box 30, Folder 7 Fulco, Charles 1983 Box 30, Folder 8 Garner, Scott Box 30, Folder 9 Gough, Roger 1984-1988 Box 30, Folder 10 Gray, Gary 1984 Box 30, Folder 11 Groves, Bertron M Box 30, Folder 12 Hackett, Peter Box 30, Hornbein, Tom Folder 13-14 Box 30, Folder 15 Hultgren, Herbert

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 13 HIGH ALTITUDE RESEARCH Operation Everest II

Box 31, Folder 1 Hultgren, Herbert Box 31, Folder 2 Jones, Jeffrey 1983 Box 31, Folder 3 Knapik, Joseph 1983 Box 31, Folder 4 Lahiri, Sukhamay 1983-1984 Box 31, Folder 5 Lapkass, Andrew 1983-1987 Box 31, Folder 6 Libby, Christopher 1983 Box 31, Folder 7 Malconian, Mark Box 31, Folder 8 McGuire, Michael 1983-1985 Box 31, Meehan, Richard T Folder 9-10 Box 31, Folder 11 Meyer, Eric 1984-1987 Box 31, Folder 12 Muscarella, James 1984-1985 Box 31, Folder 13 O'Brodovich, Hugh Box 31, Folder 14 Painter, Steve 1985-1986 Box 31, Folder 15 Pappenheimer, John 1984 Box 31, Folder 16 Pelchat, Michael 1984 Box 31, Folder 17 Powles, Peter Box 31, Folder 18 Pulley, Don 1984 Box 32, Folder 1 Ramsey, Thomas 1984-1985 Box 32, Folder 2-3 Reeves, John Box 32, Folder 4 Rock, Paul Box 32, Folder 5-6 Rose, Madeleine Box 32, Folder 7 Sater, John 1985-1986 Box 32, Folder 8 Sawyer, Mike 1983 Box 32, Folder 9 Schifrin, Ben 1983-1987 Box 32, Schoene, Robert Folder 10-11 Box 33, Folder 1-5 Sutton, John 1982-1987 Box 33, Folder 6 Teves, Marilyn 1983 Box 33, Folder 7 Tremblay, John 1983 Box 33, Folder 8 Wagner, Peter Box 33, Folder 9 Welton, Greg 1985-1986 Box 34, Folder 1 West, John Box 34, Folder 2 Williams, James 1983-1985 Box 34, Folder 3 Woodland, John 1984-1987 Box 34, Folder 4 Young, Patricia Data Box 34, Folder 5 Baseline data - Intake, Output Exercise 1985 Box 34, Folder 6 Biodata on Andraki, Gough, and Lapkass 1985 Box 34, Folder 7 Biodata on Meyer, Schiffren, Woodland, Painter 1985 Box 34, Folder 8 Cardiac Catheterization procedures 1986 Box 35, Folder 1-3 Data notebook 1985 Box 35, Folder 4 Database procedures 1985 Box 35, Folder 5 Miscellaneous data summaries 1985 Box 35, Folder 6 Original data sheets for creation of CSH1 1987 Box 35, Folder 7 Swan-Ganz Inert Gas Study 1985 Box 36, Folder 1 Ventilatory testing and exercise 1985 Box 36, Folder 2 Effects of a Simulated Ascent to 29,000 feet on Nutrition and Body Composition, May 1987 Box 36, Folder 3 Equipment and supply research 1985 Box 36, Folder 4-5 Historical documents 1982-1985 Box 36, Folder 6 "How it All Began" - Book proposal and drafts 1990-1991 Box 36, Folder 7 Notebook 1985 Box 37, Folder 1-5 Photographs Box 38, Folder 1 Planning and history documents 1982-185 Box 38, Folder 2 Proposal booklet 1985 Box 38, Folder 3 Rejection letters 1984 A Study of Human Acclimatization to Hypobaric Hypoxia

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 14 HIGH ALTITUDE RESEARCH Operation Everest II

Box 38, Folder 4 Final report 1988 Box 38, Folder 5 Master grant file 1983-1985 Box 38, Folder 6 Proposal and correspondence 1982-1991 Box 38, Folder 7 Subject inquiries 1983-1987 Box 38, Folder 8 Tables and charts Box 39, Folder 1-2 Testing schedules and calendars 1982-1985 Box 39, Folder 3 "This is Going to be Harder than I Thought" 1985 Box 39, Folder 4 "Too Little Air" - Draft manuscript with John Sutton on Operation Everest II 1988 Box 39, Folder 5 Work list, November 1985

Mount Logan High Altitude Physiology Study (HAPS)

Box 39, Folder 6 1974 Mount Logan High Altitude Physiology Study, September 1974 Box 39, Folder 7 Applicant rejection letters 1973-1974 Box 39, Folder 8 Budgets 1979 Box 40, Folder 1 Complete file 1967-1979 Correspondence Box 40, Folder 2-6 1966-1971 Box 41, Folder 1-6 1971-1980 Box 41, Folder 7 Correspondence and reports 1969 Box 42, Folder 1 Anders, Allan 1974 Box 42, Folder 2 Aquadero, Chip 1974 Box 42, Folder 3 Auders, Uldis 1974 Box 42, Folder 4 Drummond, Rennie and Regina Fraser 1969-1974 Box 42, Folder 5 Hackett, Steve 1974-1975 Box 42, Folder 6 Jahnigan, Denise 1974-1975 Box 42, Folder 7 LaBelle, Joe and Suzie 1973-1974 Box 42, Folder 8 LaBelle, Joe and Thomas Stengle 1971-1972 Box 42, Folder 9 Maher, John 1976-1978 Box 42, Folder 10 Marshall, Philip 1974 Box 42, Folder 11 Stengle, Casey 1973-1974 Box 42, Folder 12 Wiedemann, Herb 1974 Box 72, Folder 9 Diary of Charles Houston 1968 Box 73, Folder 1-6 Diary of Charles Houston 1969-1975 Box 42, Folder 13 Diary of Charles Houston 1976 Box 43, Folder 1 Diet and data sheets 1974 Box 43, Folder 2 Financial 1974-1979 Box 43, Folder 3 Grant correspondence with reports 1977-1979 Box 43, Folder 4-5 Grant file 1969-1977 Box 44, Folder 1 Grant memoranda 1970-1974 Box 44, Folder 2 Grant proposals and protocols 1970-1971 Box 44, Folder 3 History 1966-1970 Box 44, Folder 4 Human Physiology at 5360 meters - Mountain Environment - Revised proposal 1978-1981 Box 44, Folder 5 Inventory 1973 Box 44, Folder 6 Logbook Box 44, Folder 7 Logs and schedules 1977-1979 Box 45, Folder 1 Maps Box 45, Folder 2 Medication protocol 1974 Box 45, Folder 3 Miscellaneous reports and grant proposals 1974-1978 Box 45, Folder 4 Mount Logan Song Book 1977 Box 45, Folder 5 Notes Box 45, Photographs 1969-1979 Folder 6-11 Box 45, Folder 12 Protocols 1977-1978 Box 45, Folder 13 Renin data 1974 Box 45, Folder 14 Reports and data 1970 Box 46, Folder 1 Reports and data 1971-1975

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 15 HIGH ALTITUDE RESEARCH Mount Logan High Altitude Physiology Study (HAPS)

Box 46, Folder 2 Retinal Hemorrhage and Changes in Retinal Circulation at High Altitude 1968-1970 Box 46, Folder 3 Seminars program 1977

Other Research

Icefield Ranges Research Project Box 46, Folder 4 Advisory Committee - Medical briefing papers 1973 October Box 46, Folder 5-6 Correspondence 1970-1972 Box 46, Folder 7 Financial 1970-1972 Box 46, Folder 8 Photographs 1970-1971 Mount Washington High Altitude, Hypoxia, and Patients with Chronic Pulmonary Disease Box 46, Folder 9 Articles and reports 1975 Box 46, Folder 10 Correspondence 1972-1975 Box 47, Folder 1-2 Correspondence 1976-1980 Box 47, Folder 3 Patient notes and data 1978 Box 47, Folder 4 American Alpine Club Karakorum Expedition - Bulletins 1938 Box 47, Folder 5 American Alpine Club Third American Karakorum Expedition - Correspondence and finances 1953-1954 American Medical Expedition to Mount Everest Mountain Travel Trek Box 73, Folder 7-8 Correspondence 1979-1981 Box 47, Folder 6 Correspondence 1981 Box 73, Folder 9 Diary 1981 Box 73, Folder 10 Schedules 1981 WRITINGS Scope and Content of Series Series 5) WRITINGS: Reprints, articles, essays, and book chapters written or co-authored by Houston. Arranged in three subseries: A) Reprints, B) Articles and Essays, and C) Miscellaneous. A) Reprints: Published reprints and typescripts, dating from 1945-2003. Organized chronologically. B) Articles and Essays: Unpublished writings, draft ideas, and commentaries. C) Miscellaneous: Writings and edits by Houston for book chapters, historical writings on high altitude mountaineering, and miscellaneous drafts.

Reprints

Box 47, Folder 7 Publications list Box 47, 1935 - 1977 Folder 8-10 Box 48, Folder 1-4 1978 - 1997

Articles and Essays

Box 48, Folder 5 Account collection of the Hunza region Box 48, Folder 6-8 Autobiography chapter notes and correspondence 1971-1975 Box 49, Folder 1-4 Autobiography chapter drafts 1993-1995 Box 74, Folder 1 "Breathtaking: The Story of Man, Mountain, and Oxygen" - Draft WGBH program idea 1990 Box 49, Folder 5-7 Brotherhood of the Rope - Agreements 2001-2007 Box 74, Folder 2 Burlington Free Press articles 1983 Box 50, Folder 1 Composition of Alveolar Air and Volume of Pulmonary Ventilation during Long Exposure to High Altitude with R.L. Riley 1946 Box 50, Folder 2 "Computer Model of Hypoxic Man" - Draft 1981 Box 74, Folder 3 Current Pulmonology - "Man at Extreme Altitude" - Chapter 1984

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 16 WRITINGS Articles and Essays

Box 74, Folder 4 Discussion about International Hypoxia Symposium 1997 Box 74, Folder 5 "Does Altitude Exercise Training Enhance Sea Level Performance?" - Draft and correspondence 1992 Box 50, Folder 3-7 Essays 1965-2008 Box 50, Folder 8 "Exercise at Extreme Altitude" - Correspondence 1989 Box 50, Folder 9 "From the Mountains to the Labs" 1992 Box 74, Folder 6 "Getting into It" - Consultant 1970 Going High: The Story of Man and Altitude Box 50, Folder 10 Budget and schedule 1980 Correspondence Box 50, Folder 11 Baty, Shirley 1980 Box 50, Folder 12 Mountaineers Books 1979-1981 Box 50, Folder 13 Potential publishers 1975-1980 Box 50, Folder 14 Scott, Andrea 1980 Box 50, Folder 15 Second edition 2002 Box 50, Folder 16 Illustration outlines Box 51, Folder 1 Manuscript comments -Grant Barnes 1976-1980 Box 74, Folder 7-8 Preliminary drafts 1976 Box 51, Folder 2 Response letters 1980-1985 Box 51, Folder 3 Reviews 1980-1983 Box 51, Folder 4 Translation letters 1980-1984 Going Higher: Oxygen, Man, and Medicine Box 51, Folder 5 Correspondence 1985-1986 Box 51, Folder 6 Revisions 2004 Box 51, Folder 7 "Golden Ages" - Draft 1984 Box 51, Folder 8 Health and Doctor essays 1960-1961 Box 51, Folder 9 "Health hints for Travellers" 1971 Box 74, Folder 9 Heat Stroke and Heat Exhaustion. Merck Manual 1985 Box 74, Folder 10 High Adventure: The Romance between Medicine and Mountaineering 1993 Box 74, Folder 11 High Altitude Cerebral Edema - Allen Cymerman edits 1997 Box 75, Folder 1-2 High Altitude Cerebral Edema - Drafts 1997 Box 75, Folder 3 High altitude historical research Box 51, Folder 10 "High Altitude Illness" - Draft and correspondence 1976 Box 75, Folder 4 "High Altitude Illness" - Mountaineering Books correspondence 1997 Box 75, Folder 5 High Altitude Illness - Yosemite 1977 High Altitude Physiology Study Box 52, Folder 1 Collected papers 1967 Box 52, Folder 2 Commonwealth fund grant 1974-1975 Box 52, Folder 3-4 Permissions correspondence 1980 Box 52, Folder 5-6 Rennie, Drummon - Correspondence 1975-1976 Box 52, Folder 7 "History of Military Operations in the Mountain Environment" - Draft and correspondence 1996 Box 53, Folder 1 "How Fast is Slow Enough?" Box 53, Folder 2 How Hypoxia Affects the Cell - Book chapter 2002-2003 K2: The Savage Mountain Box 53, Folder 3 Concept draft 1953 Box 53, Folder 4 Correspondence - Publishing agreements 2000 Box 75, Folder 6 Video script 1993 K2 Broadway play Box 53, Folder 5 Historical material and correspondence 1983-1984 Box 53, Folder 6-7 Playbill and reviews 1983-1984 Box 75, Folder 7 Kathmandu - Nepal - Diary 1985 Box 53, Folder 8 "Lessons from Research at High Altitude" - Typescript 1993 Box 53, Folder 9 "Man and His Environment" - Seminar idea 1961 Box 75, Folder 8 Mediastinal Emphysema in Mountain Climbers 1973 Box 53, Folder 10 Miscellaneous edited drafts Box 53, Folder 11 Miscellaneous writings Box 76, Folder 1-3 Miscellaneous writings

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 17 WRITINGS Articles and Essays

Box 53, Folder 12 Mount Everest - Denali National Park 1994-2004 Box 53, Folder 13 "A Mountain Episode" - Typescript draft Box 54, Folder 1 "Nanda Devi" - Draft. Includes photographic material 1992 Box 54, Folder 2 Novel typescript about India 1963-1965 Box 75, Folder 9 Operation Everest I and II article 1997 Box 54, Folder 3 "Outcome of Ambulatory Care - Retrospective Study of Exeter Clinic" - Draft and edits 1973 Box 54, Folder 4 "Outcome Study": An Assessment of the Quality, Perceived, and Real of Hospital Care at the Medical Center Hospital of Vermont Box 76, Folder 4 Personal thoughts for the future Box 54, Folder 5 Retinal Pathology due to Hypoxia, June 1973 Box 54, Folder 6 "Risks and Rewards on Mountains" 1996 Box 54, Folder 7 "Romance of Mountaineering and Medicine" - Typescript 1994 Box 54, Folder 8 Some notes on altitude sickness 1975 Box 76, Folder 5 Some observations on Acclimatization to High Altitude Box 54, Folder 9 Statement to Members Board of Health Systems, Inc. (Vermont) and supplemental materials 1971 Box 54, Folder 10 "Traveller's Diarrhea," Backpacker Magazine, Drafts 1979 Box 54, Folder 11 Various illustrations Box 54, Folder 12 Vermont Medical Society - Health issues commentary 1992-2002 Box 54, Folder 13 Video ideas Box 54, Folder 14 "Viewpoint on Sir Edmund Hillary" 1977 Box 54, Folder 15 Yosemite National Institutes: The First Twenty-Five Years-A History 1996 Box 54, Folder 16 Writings on Diamox

Miscellaneous

Box 55, Folder 1 Dunn, Frederick. "Mountaineering and Explorations in the Karakoram Range 1957 Box 76, Folder 6 High Altitude Physiology Bibliography 1993 Box 55, Folder 2-4 Hultgren, Herbert. "High Altitude Pulmonary Edema" - Edits Box 55, Folder 5 Longstaff, T.G. "Mountain Sickness and its Probable Causes" 1906 Box 76, Folder 7 Miscellaneous writings with others Molenaar, Dee Box 55, Folder 6 "K2 Diary 1953: with Sketchbook" 1994 Box 55, Folder 7 "Life and Times of a Mountain Wanderer" 2001 Box 55, Folder 8 Miscellaneous writings 1993 Box 55, Folder 9 "Six Weeks on K2" 2001 Box 55, Folder 10 Selected bibliography of others Box 76, Folder 8 Sherpa interview transcripts 1982 Box 76, Folder 9 Tilman, William H. - Nanda Devi Diaries 1934-1936 Box 55, Folder 11 Writings by Dorcas Houston GRANTS AND RESEARCH Scope and Content of Series Series 6) GRANTS AND RESEARCH: Materials range from formal multi-participant grant funded studies to individual scientific subject-based analysis. The files, arranged alphabetically by topic or title of research, document research conducted between 1960-1991. One notable research project included is Houston's testing and experimentation with artificial heart pumps.

Box 56, Folder 1-2 Altitude Adaption in Chronic Lung Disease with William Graham - Grant proposal materials 1975-1978 Artificial Heart Research Correspondence Box 56, Folder 3-6 1958-1962 Box 56, Folder 7 Eiseman, Ben 1958-1962 Box 56, Folder 8 Rainer, Gerald 1962-1963 Box 56, Folder 9 Dog surgeries 1962-1963

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 18 GRANTS AND RESEARCH

Box 57, Folder 1 Newspaper clippings 1959-1961 Box 57, Folder 2 Photographs Box 57, Folder 3 Research articles 1960-1963 Box 57, Folder 4 Specifications 1961-1962 Box 57, Folder 5 Tracings Box 57, Folder 6-8 Effect of Exercise on the Incidence and Severity of Acute Mountain Sickness - Grant materials 1989-1991 Box 57, Folder 9 Effects of Hypoxia on Patients with Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease - Grant proposal 1974 Box 58, Folder 1 Hypothermia thermometers - Correspondence 1979-1980 Box 58, Folder 2-3 Long-term effects of high altitude - Study 1976-1977 Box 58, Folder 4 National Institutes of Health - Department of Health, Education, and Welfare - Long term study of acclimation proposal 1960-1961 Box 58, Folder 5 Partial Adaptation to High Altitude in a Decompression Chamber - Proposals 1976-1977 LECTURES AND CONFERENCES Scope and Content of Series Series 7) LECTURES AND CONFERENCES: High altitude study and mountaineering conference materials, including programs and drafts of lectures and talks by Houston.

Box 58, Folder 6 1st World Congress on High Altitude Medicine and Physiology, "Romance between Mountaineering and Medicine," Bolivia 1994 Box 58, Folder 7 5th Annual Conference on Research in Emphysema - "Normal and Abnormal Pulmonary Circulation," June 1962 Box 58, Folder 8 6th International Hypoxia Symposium - "Fifty Years of Going Higher," Alberta, February 21-25 1989 Box 77, Folder 1 10th International Hypoxia Symposium, Sydney, Australia 1997 Box 58, Folder 9 12th International Hypoxia Symposium - "From Bancroft to Bedside," Alberta, Canada, March 10-14 2001 Box 58, Folder 10 13th Biennial International Hypoxia Symposium, Banff, Canada 2003 Box 58, Folder 11 15th International Festival of Mountaineering Literature, London 2001 Box 58, Folder 12 53rd International Film Festival of Mountain, Exploration, and Adventure, Italy 2005 Box 58, Folder 13 2001 Emergency Medical Services Conference, Vermont, "Ricks and Rewards on Mountains" 2001 Box 59, Folder 1 Annapurna Premier 8000, Chamonix, France - "Historical Aspect of the Medicine of Expedition and Altitude" 1990 Box 59, Folder 2 Banff Mountain Film Festival 2002-2005 Box 77, Folder 2 Banff Mountain Medicine - Plans 1976 Box 77, Folder 3 Harvard University Club - Talk Box 77, Folder 4 Hypothermia - Talk 1997 Box 59, Folder 3-4 International Hypoxia Symposium - Miscellaneous photographs 1981 Box 59, Folder 5 Mountain Medicine and Physiology, North Wales, February 1975 Box 59, Folder 6 National Outdoor Leadership School, Wyoming - Photographs 1992 Box 59, Folder 7 New Hampshire Heart Association Annual Meeting and Public Symposium, "Heart Disease in a Capsule," October 9 1956 Box 77, Folder 5 Physiological Lessons of Everest, Family Medicine Interest Group 1996 Box 59, Folder 8 University of Washington - Mountaineering talk 2002 Box 59, Folder 9 Yosemite Institute Mountain Medicine Symposium - Correspondence, October-November 1975 Box 77, Folder 6-8 Yosemite Institute Mountain Medicine Symposium 1976 Box 78, Folder 1-2 Yosemite Institute Mountain Medicine Symposium 1977-1980 Box 78, Folder 3 Miscellaneous talks 1947-1972 Box 59, Miscellaneous slides and photographs Folder 10-12

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 19 PROFESSIONAL AFFILIATIONS

PROFESSIONAL AFFILIATIONS Scope and Content of Series Series 8) PROFESSIONAL AFFILIATIONS: Documents from the Snake River Health Clinic (SRHC) and the Colorado Altitude Research Institute (CARI), both established by Houston.

Colorado Altitude Research Institute Box 60, Folder 1 Veterans of the Tenth Mountain Division 50th Reunion - Program 1992 Box 60, Folder 2 Notes Box 78, Folder 4 Correspondence 1991 Box 78, Folder 5 Bibliography of High Altitude Medicine 1992 Box 60, Folder 3-6 Rocky Mountain Traumatological Society - Bylaws, meeting minutes, and correspondence 1973-1974 Shipton-Tilman Awards Box 60, Folder 7-8 Applicants 2000 Box 78, Folder 6 Applicants, Mc-Z 2001 Box 61, Folder 1-2 Correspondence and applicants 2001-2002 Box 61, Folder 3-4 Snake River Health Services 1993-2006 IMAGES AND RECORDINGS Scope and Content of Series Series 9) IMAGES AND RECORDINGS: Includes slides; audiocassettes of interviews and conferences from Houston's tenure in the Peace Corps of India; recorded videotape from conferences and mountaineering events and programs, including the K2 mountaineering expedition; and reel-to-reel tapes of the Operation Everest I high altitude simulated experiment. Descriptions found in the folder list were transcribed from original enclosures and have not been verified. Arranged in subseries by format.

Slides

Box 61, Folder 5-7 Oxygen series Box 62, Folder 1-5 Oxygen series

Audiocassettes

Box 63, Folder 1 Early days of practice, Exeter, 1947-1957 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 2 K2 Expedition 1953 August 16 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 3-6 K2 Expedition base camp 1953 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 7 Peace Corps and Sargent Shriver 1962 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Coates Redmon discussing Peace Corps 1976 Folder 8-10 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 20 IMAGES AND RECORDINGS Audiocassettes

Box 63, Folder 11 Operation Everest II on KPBS / NPR interview with Peter Wagner 1985 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 12 High Altitude Physiology - "Operation Everest, an Overview." American College of Sports and Medicine Annual Meeting 33rd Annual Meeting 1986 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 13 Mount McKinley, Altitude Sickness 1988 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 14 American Alpine Club 1990 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 15 "Lessons of the Past Illuminate the Future and Hazards for the Elderly Adventurer." 2nd Wilderness Society Conference 1992 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 16 "High Adventure: A History of Mountaineering and Research." American College of Sports and Medicine Annual Meeting 1993 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 17 Charles Houston interview November 6, 1998 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 18 Nanda Devi Expedition, 1936. K2 Expeditions, 1938 & 1953 - Recorded April 1999 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 19 Acclimatization chapter transcription June 24, 2003 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 20 Acclimatization chapter - Introduction, 2003. Health August - September 2003 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 21 "Mountaineers World" book chapter draft dictation 2003 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 63, Folder 22 Charles Houston to Bernadette McDonald 2004 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 21 IMAGES AND RECORDINGS Audiocassettes

Box 64, Folder 1 National Geographic article re. survival in adverse conditions, hypoxia 2004 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 2 Mai Bowle - Critique 2006 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 3 Robert Bates memorial service, October 6, 2007. Memo to Thomas Hornbein, re. future of research center Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 4 Speaking out on war, risk and death 2007 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 5 Letter to Peter Hackett, re. oxygen, 2008. Other mountaineering testimony Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 6 Stories about K2 expedition. Mai Bowle comments 2008 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 7 American Alpine Club symposium undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 8 Bruce Paton reading Hooke, Berti, Tilman undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Charles Houston interviewed by Stan Boucher August 24, 2000 Folder 9-11 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 12 Dudley Wolf's last days on K2 (1939) - Draft proposal for documentary undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 13 H.W. Tilman on mountaineering undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 14 Introduction to chronic mountain sickness - Draft transcription undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 15 K2 Expedition base camp... Craig talking start at base camp undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 22 IMAGES AND RECORDINGS Audiocassettes

Box 64, Folder 16 Letters to friends, dictated undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 17 Metanoia Summary - An Integrated Program of Education, Dialogue and Community Service Focused on Healthcare Inequality Access undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 18 Money...Every civilization has its basis in money - Dictation undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 19 Peace Corps history dictation undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 20 References for High Altitude Medicine book, revised script undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 21 Sargent Shriver farewell dinner (Peace Corps) undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 64, Folder 22 "Tilting of the Healthcare Windmill" undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply

LPs

Box OM-1, Captain Iverson introducing Dr. Houston and Admiral Wagner, Operation Everest I Folder 2 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box OM-1, Bob Ackerely interviews Sir Edmund Hillary 1954 Folder 3 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box OM-1, K2 Base Camp 1953 Folder 4-5 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Reel-to-reel Recordings

Comprehensive Clinic - 5" reels Box 65, Folder 1 Accident, October 6, 1967 (side 2) & Follow up on Accident Clinic, October 6-19, 1967 (side 1) Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 23 IMAGES AND RECORDINGS Reel-to-reel Recordings

Box 65, Folder 2 Patient with Myocardial infarction, December 15, 1967 (side 1) & Abortion, January 19, 1968 (side 2) Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 65, Folder 3 Death 1968 February 14 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 65, Folder 4 Anatomy of an Accident 1968 October 15 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 65, Folder 5 "Abortion and the Law," Father Robert F. Drinan, Dean of Boston College Law School 1968 November 20 Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 5" reel

Box 65, Folder 6 Conference on Social Change, especially in Vermont undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 5" reel

Box 65, Folder 7 Medical? undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 5" reel

Box 65, Folder 8 [Title illegible] 1958 September 10,17, Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 7" reel

Box 65, Folder 9 Dr. Hansen & Dr. Burney[?] 1960 March 22 Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 7" reel

Box 65, Folder 10 American College of Chest Physicians Meeting 1960 October Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 7" reel

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 24 IMAGES AND RECORDINGS Reel-to-reel Recordings

Box 65, Folder 11 Dr. Blackman & Dr. Cook 1960 December 8 Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 7" reel

Box 65, Folder 12 Medicine of the future ca. 1960 Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 7" reel

Box 65, Folder 13 Shriver farewell 1966 March 1 Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 7" reel

Box 65, Folder 14 Northern Showcase, "Take Me to the Mountains" undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 7" reel

Box 65, Folder 15 Interregional Conference undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 7" reel

Box 65, Folder 16 C.S. Houston - Heart sounds undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 7" reel

Box 65, Folder 17 Medical? undated Restrictions Restrictions Apply General 7" reel

Box 65, Folder 18 Unlabeled 7" reel Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Video and Film

Box 66, Folder 1 Honnedaga and India 1935-1936 Box 66, Folder 2 Nanda Devi 1936 Box 66, Folder 3 Unidentified "rough cut" 1938

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 25 IMAGES AND RECORDINGS Video and Film

Box 66, Folder 4-5 K2 1938 Box 66, Folder 6 Operation Everest 1936 Box 66, Folder 7-9 "Threshold of Performance," Mount Logan High Altitude Study 1977 Box 66, Folder 10 "Threshold of Performance," Mount Logan High Altitude Study [U-matic] 1977 Box 66, Folder 11 International Historical-Scientific Conference - "Cento anni della Capanna Osservatorio Regina Margherita High Mountain Medicine, Glaciology, Atmospheric Physics" 1993 August 27-28 Box 66, Folder 12 Memorial service for Professor John Sutton 1996 February 27 Box 66, Folder 13 Nanda Devi, 1936 - CSH edit 1997 June Box 66, Folder 14 "Crags & Crinolines" - Hypoxia Symposium 1997 February Box 66, Folder 15 "Mountains and Medicine" - Bioscience lecture by Houston 1997 April 14 Box 66, Folder 16 American K2 reunion 1998 November 20-22 Box 66, Folder 17 Nanda Devi & K2 - Sound only 1999 April Box 66, Nanda Devi Trek 2000 Folder 18-19 Box 66, Folder 20 Liym[?] talk - Nanda Devi, Everest, K2 2002 March Box 66, Folder 21 Exploring the Heights, rough cut 2002 August Box 66, Folder 22 Houston's mountaineering expeditions & high altitude studies undated Box 66, Folder 23 "Exploring the Heights" - Houston biographical film undated Box 66, Fifty Years of Going Higher undated Folder 24-25 Box 66, Operation Everest II interviews undated Folder 26-28 Box 66, Folder 29 Profile: Charles Houston undated Box 66, Folder 30 Stowe final undated Box 66, Folder 31 "Struggles of the Spirit" - Interview with Charles Houston undated Box 66, "A Study of Hypoxia," Operation Everest II undated Folder 32-34 Box 79 "Mt. Everest Research" - Videocassette tapes and magnetic reel film, Walter Reed Army Institute of Research 1985-1986 Restrictions Restrictions apply.

Box 65, Folder 19 Super 8 film - Unlabeled Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Box 80 "Mt. Everest Research" - Videocassette tapes and magnetic reel film, Walter Reed Army Institute of Research 1985-1986 Restrictions Restrictions Apply

DIGITAL MEDIA Scope and Content of Series Series 10) DIGITAL MEDIA: Includes word processing, research, and data files on floppy discs, CDs, and other media. Restrictions UNPROCESSED; Restrictions Apply. Permission to access these materials may be granted by the director of Special Collections & Archives.

Box 67 Digital media Restrictions Restrictions Apply General Includes an unprocessed hard drive.

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 26 DIGITAL MEDIA

Box 68 Digital media Restrictions Restrictions Apply

Charles Houston Papers MSS 0716 27