US 2011 OO64678A1 (19) United States (12) Patent Application Publication (10) Pub. No.: US 2011/0064678 A1 Knappe et al. (43) Pub. Date: Mar. 17, 2011

(54) STYLINGAGENTS GIVING A HIGH DEGREE Publication Classification OF HOLD (51) Int. Cl. (75) Inventors: Thorsten Knappe, Schenefeld set, . CR (DE); Sabine Albrechtsen, O ( .01) Easter SR Uwe Bergemann, (52) U.S. Cl...... 424/47; 424/70.16 amburg (73) Assignee: HENKELAG & CO. KGAA, (57) ABSTRACT Dusseldorf, DE (DE) An agent for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, a) at least one (21) Appl. No.: 12/442,878 copolymer A formed from: at least one monomer A1 selected 1-1. from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid alkyl esters, (22) PCT Filed: Aug. 16, 2007 and methacrylic acid alkyl esters; at least one monomer A2 (86). PCT No.: PCT/EP07/58492 selected from acrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters and meth acrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters; and at least one monomer S371 (c)(1) A3 selected from Succinic acid monoalkyl esters and Succinic (2), (4) Date: Mar 25, 2009 acid dialkyl esters; and at least one film-forming and setting s 9 amphoteric polymer. A method for using the agent for the (30) Foreign Application Priority Data temporary deformation of hair, and an aerosol hair spray containing the agent and at least one propellant also are pro Sep. 27, 2006 (DE) ...... 102O06O45966.O vided.

Patent Application Publication Mar. 17, 2011 Sheet 3 of 3 US 2011/006.4678 A1

H H ".

HC-Ns CHS0, HC-NS C OCH, FIG. 20 FIG. 21 CH, -O-KH - CH, - - H te, C l, C FIG. 22 FIG. 23 CH CH CH H X- -( )-(Y, CX- - )-( th. C l, C FIG. 24 FIG. 25 NH

US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

STYLNGAGENTS GIVINGA HIGH DEGREE 0007 Accordingly, it is desirable to provide an agent for OF HOLD the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers that is notable for a very high degree of hold, such that the flexibility, elas CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED ticity, and plasticity of the polymer film are retained. In addi APPLICATION tion, other desirable features and characteristics will become apparent from the Subsequent Summary and detailed descrip 0001. This application is a U.S. National Stage entry under tion and the appended claims, taken in connection with the 35 U.S.C S371 based on International Application No. PCT/ accompanying drawings and this background EP2007/058492, filed 16 Aug. 2007, which was published under PCT Article 21(2) and claims the benefit of the filing DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS date of German Patent Application No 10 2006 0459660 filed 27 Sep. 2006, the disclosures of which applications are 0008. The present invention will hereinafter be described hereby incorporated herein by reference. in conjunction with the following drawing figures, wherein like numerals denote like elements, and FIELD OF THE INVENTION 0009 FIG. 1 is an illustration of the structural formula of a linear dimethiconol that can be used in an embodiment of 0002 The present invention relates in general to cosmetic the present invention; compositions. In particular, the present invention relates to 0010 FIG. 2 is an illustration of the structural formula of agents for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, con a branched dimethiconol that can be used in an embodiment taining a specific combination of polymers; to the use of said of the present invention; agents for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers; and 0011 FIG. 3 is an illustration of the structural formula of to aerosol hair sprays based on said agents. a linear dimethicone that can be used in an embodiment of the present invention; BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 0012 FIG. 4 is an illustration of the structural formula of 0003. “Keratin-containing fibers are understood in prin a branched dimethicone that can be used in an embodiment of ciple as all animal hairs, e.g. wool, horsehair, angora wool, the present invention; furs, feathers, and products or textiles produced therefrom. 0013 FIG. 5 is an illustration of the structural formula of By preference, however, the keratinic fibers are human hairs. a dimethicone copolyol that can be used in an embodiment of 0004 An attractive-looking hairstyle is generally the present invention; regarded these days as an indispensable element of a well 0014 FIG. 6 is an illustration of the structural formula of groomed appearance. Given the currents of fashion, more and another dimethicone copolyol that can be used in an embodi more hairstyles regarded as chic are ones that, for many types ment of the present invention; of hair, can be constructed, or maintained for a longer period 0015 FIG. 7 is an illustration of the structural formula of of time of up to several days, only with the use of setting a branched dimethicone copolyol that can be used in an ingredients. Hair treatment agents that serve for permanent or embodiment of the present invention; temporary shaping of the hair therefore play an important 0016 FIG. 8 is an illustration of the structural formula of role. Temporary shaping actions that are intended to yield another branched dimethicone copolyol that can be used in an good hold without impairing the hair's healthy appearance, embodiment of the present invention; for example its shine, can be achieved, for example, using hair 0017 FIG. 9 is an illustration of the structural formula of sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair foams, blow-dry waves, etc. an aminofunctional silicone that can be used in an embodi 0005 Corresponding agents for the temporary shaping ment of the present invention; usually contain synthetic polymers as a shaping component. 0018 FIG. 10 is an illustration of the structural formula of Preparations that contain a dissolved or dispersed polymer a particular aminofunctional silicone of FIG. 9 that can be can be applied onto the hair by means of propellant gases or used in an embodiment of the present invention; by way of a pump mechanism. Hair gels and hair waxes in 0019 FIG. 11 is an illustration of the structural formula of particular, however, are generally not applied directly onto another particular aminofunctional silicone of FIG.9 that can the hair but rather distributed in the hair by means of a comb be used in an embodiment of the present invention; or one's hands. 0020 FIG. 12 is an illustration of the structural formula of 0006. The most important property of an agent for the a further particular aminofunctional silicone of FIG. 9 that temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, hereinafter also can be used in an embodiment of the present invention; called a styling agent, is to impart the strongest possible hold 0021 FIG. 13 is an illustration of the structural formula of to the treated fibers in the shape that is generated. If the cationic polymer that can be used in an embodiment of the keratinic fibers involved are human hairs, terms also used are present invention; a strong “hairstyle hold' or a high “degree of hold of the 0022 FIG. 14 is an illustration of the structural formula of styling agent. The hairstyle hold is determined substantially monomers having quaternary ammonium groups that can be by the nature and quantity of the synthetic polymer used, used to form amphoteric polymers useful in an embodiment although the further constituents of the styling agent can also of the present invention; have an influence. Also often desired, in addition to a high 0023 FIG. 15 is an illustration of the structural formula of degree of hold, are flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity. Many monomeric carboxylic acids that can be used to form ampho commercially available styling agents, in particular aerosol teric polymers useful in an embodiment of the present inven hair sprays, are already notable for a high degree of hold. tion; They often reach their limits, however, when faced with user 0024 FIG. 16 is an illustration of the structural formula of demands for creating increasingly wild and extreme hair dicarboxylic acids useful in an embodiment of the present styles and reliably fixing them in place. invention; US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

0025 FIG. 17 is an illustration of the structural formula of presented in the preceding background of the invention or the an ectoin or ectoin derivative useful in an embodiment of the following detailed description of the invention. present invention; 0033 Surprisingly, an agent for the temporary deforma 0026 FIG. 18 is an illustration of the structural formula of tion of keratinic fibers that is notable for a very high degree of anotherectoinorectoinderivative useful in an embodiment of hold, such that the flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity of the the present invention; polymer film are retained, can be achieved by a combination 0027 FIG. 19 is an illustration of the structural formula of of specific polymers. fatty acid partial glycerides useful in an embodiment of the 0034. In one exemplary embodiment of the present inven present invention; and tion, an agent for the temporary deformation of keratinic 0028 FIGS. 20-28 are illustrations of the structural for fibers comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, mulas of cationic direct-absorbing dyes useful in embodi 0035) a) at least one copolymer A formed from: ments of the present invention. 0036 at least one monomer A1 comprising acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid alkyl esters, or BRIEF SUMMARY methacrylic acid alkyl esters; 0029. An agent for the temporary deformation of keratinic 0037 at least one monomer A2 comprising acrylic fibers, a method for using the agent, and an aerosol hairspray acid hydroxyalkyl esters or methacrylic acid comprising the agent are provided. In accordance with an hydroxyalkyl esters; and exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the agent for 0038 at least one monomer A3 comprising succinic the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers comprises, in a acid monoalkyl esters or Succinic acid dialkyl esters; cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one copolymer A and formed from: at least one monomer A1 selected from the 0.039 b) at least one film-forming and/or setting ampho group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic teric polymer. acid alkyl esters, and methacrylic acid alkyl esters; at least 0040 Copolymers A, and the use thereofas film-forming one monomer A2 selected from the group consisting of and/or setting polymers, are known. These copolymers are acrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters and methacrylic acid notable in particular for a very high degree of hold. It has been hydroxyalkyl esters; and at least one monomer A3 selected shown, however, that when they are used in usual formula from the group consisting of Succinic acid monoalkyl esters tions for styling agents, especially in combination with usual and Succinic acid dialkyl esters; and at least one film-forming constituents of an aerosol hair spray, the high degree of hold and setting amphoteric polymer B. of copolymers A is lost. It has now been found, Surprisingly, 0030. A method for using an agent for the temporary that the high degree of hold of copolymers A is retained when deformation of hair is provided in accordance with an exem they are utilized in combination with an amphoteric film plary embodiment of the present invention. The method com forming and/or setting polymer. prises the step of applying the agent to hair, wherein the agent 0041. In an exemplary embodiment of the present inven comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one tion, the agents for the temporary deformation of keratinic copolymer A formed from: at least one monomer A1 selected fibers contain at least one copolymer A. from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 0042. In a preferred embodiment, the copolymer A is acrylic acid alkyl esters, and methacrylic acid alkyl esters; at formed from: least one monomer A2 selected from the group consisting of 0043 at least one monomer A1 comprising acrylic acid, acrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters and methacrylic acid methacrylic acid, acrylic acid C to Co alkyl esters, or hydroxyalkyl esters; and at least one monomer A3 selected methacrylic acid C to Co alkyl esters; from the group consisting of Succinic acid monoalkyl esters 0044 at least one monomer A2 comprising acrylic acid and Succinic acid dialkyl esters; and at least one film-forming hydroxy-C to Co alkyl esters or methacrylic acid and setting amphoteric polymer B. hydroxy-C to Co alkyl esters; and 0031. An aerosol hairspray also is provided in accordance with another exemplary embodiment of the present invention. 0.045 at least one monomer A3 comprising succinic The aerosol hair spray comprises an agent for the temporary acid mono-C to C alkyl esters or Succinic acid di-C to deformation of keratinic fibers and at least one propellant. Calkyl esters. The agent comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at 0046 For purposes of the present invention, what are to be least one copolymer A formed from: at least one monomer A1 understood as “copolymers. A formed from the aforesaid selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, meth monomers' are only those copolymers that contain, in addi acrylic acid, acrylic acid alkyl esters, and methacrylic acid tion to polymer units that result from the incorporation of the alkyl esters; at least one monomer A2 selected from the group aforesaid monomers A1, A2, and A3 into the copolymer, a consisting of acrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters and meth maximum of 5 weight percent (wt %), preferably a maximum acrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters; and at least one monomer of 1 wt %, of polymer units that are attributable to the incor A3 selected from the group consisting of Succinic acid poration of other monomers. In a preferred embodiment, monoalkyl esters and Succinic acid dialkyl esters; and at least copolymers Aare formed exclusively from polymer units that one film-forming and setting amphoteric polymer B. result from the incorporation of the aforesaid monomers A1, A2, and A3 into the copolymer. DETAILED DESCRIPTION 0047. In a preferred embodiment, monomers A1 comprise acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid methyl ester, 0032. The following detailed description of the invention methacrylic acid methyl ester, acrylic acid ethyl ester, meth is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the acrylic acid ethyl ester, acrylic acid propyl ester, methacrylic invention or the application and uses of the invention. Fur acid propyl ester, acrylic acid isopropyl ester, and/or meth thermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory acrylic acid isopropyl ester, or combinations thereof. US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

0048. In another preferred embodiment, monomers A2 Bridgewater, N.J. under the designation Amphomer(R) (INCI comprise hydroxymethyl acrylate, hydroxymethyl methacry name: Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Meth late, (2-hydroxyethyl)acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl)methacry acrylate Copolymer). late, (2-hydroxypropyl)acrylate, (2-hydroxypropyl) meth 0059. In an exemplary embodiment, the film-forming and/ acrylate, (3-hydroxypropyl)acrylate, (3-hydroxypropyl) or setting amphoteric polymer B is present in the agent in an methacrylate or combinations thereof. amount of from about 0.01 to about 20 wt % of the agent. Preferably the film forming and/or setting amphoteric poly 0049. In a further preferred embodiment, monomers A3 mer is present in the agent in an amount of from about 0.1 to comprise methylhydrogensuccinate, methyl Succinate, ethyl about 15 wt % of the agent, and more preferably the film hydrogensuccinate, ethyl Succinate, propyl hydrogensucci forming and/or setting amphoteric polymer is present in the nate, propyl Succinate, isopropyl hydrogensuccinate, isopro agent in an amount of from about 1.0 to about 10 wt %, based pyl succinate or combinations thereof. More preferably on the entire hair setting agent. The agent may comprise, monomers A3 comprise methyl Succinate and/or ethyl succi several film-forming and/or setting amphoteric polymers, nate. although the total quantity of the film-forming and/or setting 0050. In a more preferred embodiment, copolymer A is amphoteric polymers is preferably no more than about 20 wt formed from: %. 0051 at least one monomer A1 comprising acrylic acid, 0060. It has been shown that an optimum properties pro methacrylic acid, acrylic acid methyl ester, methacrylic file, in particular a particularly high degree of hold, is acid methyl ester, acrylic acid ethyl ester, methacrylic obtained when the agent comprises the copolymer A and the acid ethyl ester, acrylic acid propyl ester, methacrylic film-forming and/or setting amphoteric polymer B. In an acid propyl ester, acrylic acid isopropyl ester, meth exemplary embodiment, the agent comprises at a weight ratio acrylic acid isopropyl ester, or a combination thereof. from about 1:20 to about 1:1, preferably from about 1:20 to 0.052 at least one monomer A2 comprising hydroxym about 1:2, more preferably from about 1:20 to about 1:5. ethyl acrylate, hydroxymethyl methacrylate, (2-hy 0061. In addition to copolymer A and the film-forming droxyethyl)acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl)methacrylate, and/or setting amphoteric polymer B, the agents can comprise (2-hydroxypropyl)acrylate, (2-hydroxypropyl)meth other known film-forming and/or setting polymers. These acrylate, (3-hydroxypropyl)acrylate, (3-hydroxypropyl) film-forming and/or setting polymers can be both perma methacrylate, or a combination thereof, and nently and temporarily cationic, anionic, or nonionic. 0053 at least one monomer A3 comprising methyl suc 0062 Because polymers are often multifunctional, their cinate and/or ethyl Succinate. functions cannot always be clearly and unequivocally distin guished from one another. This applies in particular to film 0054 The copolymers A can be manufactured from the forming and/or setting polymers. It is explicitly stated at this aforesaid monomers using known polymerization methods. juncture, however, that in the context of the present invention, Very particularly preferred copolymers A are the copolymers both film-forming and/or setting polymers are essential. referred to under INCI nomenclature as Acrylates/C1-2 Suc Because the two properties are also not entirely independent cinates/Hydroxyacrylates Copolymer. These are commer of one another, the term “setting polymers' is also always cially obtainable. understood to mean “film-forming polymers.” and vice versa. 0055. In one exemplary embodiment, the agent comprises 0063 Included among the preferred properties of the film the copolymer A in an about of from about 0.01 to about 20 wt forming polymers is film formation. “Film-forming poly % of the agent, preferably, the agent comprises the copolymer mers' are to be understood as those polymers that, upon Ainanamount of from about 0.05 to about 10 wt %, and more drying, leave behind a substantially continuous film on the preferably comprises from about 0.1 to about 5 wt %, based skin, hair, or nails. Film-formers of this kind can be used in a on the entire hair setting agent. very wide variety of cosmetic products Such as, for example, 0056. In another exemplary embodiment, the agents for face masks, make-up, hair setting agents, hair sprays, hair the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers contain at least gels, hair waxes, hair therapies, shampoos, or nail polishes. one film-forming and/or setting amphoteric polymer B. Particularly preferred are those polymers that possess suffi 0057 The film-forming and/or setting amphoteric poly cient solubility in alcohol or in waterfalcohol mixtures to be mer B comprises methacryloylbetaine/alkyl methacrylate present in completely dissolved form in the agent. The film copolymers, copolymers of monomers having carboxy and/ forming polymers can be of synthetic or natural origin. or Sulfone groups, in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 0064. In one exemplary embodiment “film-forming poly itaconic acid, and/or monomers having amino groups, in par mers' are furthermore understood to be those polymers that, ticular monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl when used in about a 0.01 to about 20 wt % aqueous, alco acrylates, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, dialkylami holic, or aqueous/alcoholic Solution, are capable of deposit noalkyl methacrylates, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylamides, ing a transparent polymer film on the hair. dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamides, monoalkylaminoalkyl meth 0065 Suitable further synthetic film-forming, hair-setting acrylamides, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamides, and/or polymers are, for example, homo- or copolymers that are copolymers of N-octyl acrylamide, methyl methacrylate, constructed from at least one of the following monomers: hydroxypropyl methacrylate, N-tert-butylaminoethyl meth vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl esters such as, for acrylate, and/or acrylic acid. example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacry 0058. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, lamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl meth the agent comprises as film-forming and/or setting amphot acrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, propylene gly eric polymer Ban N-octyl acrylamide/acrylic acid/tert.-bu col or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers tylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, Such as the copoly preferably being C to C, alkyl groups, more preferably C to mer marketed by the National Starch Company of C. alkyl groups. US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

0066 Mention may be made, by way of example, of 0072. In one exemplary embodiment, the cosmetically homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone or of N-vinylformamide. acceptable carrier comprises additional co-solvents, such as Further Suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-setting poly organic solvents, or a mixture of solvents having a boiling mers are, for example, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and point under 400° C. In a preferred embodiment, the co-sol vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, vents are present in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 15 and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides that are marketed, for wt %, more preferably from about 1 to about 10 wt %, based example, under the commercial names Akypomine(R) P 191 on the entire agent. Unbranched or branched hydrocarbons by CHEM-Y of Germany, or Sepigel R. 305 by Seppic of Such as pentane, hexane, isopentane, and cyclic hydrocar Fanfield, N.J.; polyvinyl alcohols that are marketed, for bons, such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane, are particularly example, under the commercial names Elvanol R) by DuPont suitable as additional co-solvents. Further particularly pre of Wilmington, Del. or Vinol R 523/540 by the Air Products ferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol, and Chemicals, Inc. of Allentown Pa., and polyethylene gly and propylene glycol, in a quantity of up to 30 wt.% based on col/polypropylene glycol copolymers that are marketed, for the entire agent. example, under the commercial names Ucon R by Union Car (0073. The agents preferably have a pH from 2 to 11. More bide Corporation of Houston, Tex. preferably, the pH range is between 2 and 8. Unless otherwise 0067 Suitable natural film-forming polymers are, for noted, the indications regarding pH refer in this context, for example, cellulose derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl purposes of this document, to the pH at 25°C. cellulose having a molecular weight from 30,000 to 50,000 0074 The agent according to the present invention can g/mol, which is marketed for example under the commercial furthermore contain the adjuvants and additives that are usu name Nisso SIR by Lehmann & Voss, Germany. ally added to conventional styling agents. Care-providing 0068. Setting polymers contribute to the hold, and/or to Substances may be mentioned in particular as Suitable adju building up the hair volume and hair fullness, of the overall vants and additives. hairstyle. These so-called setting polymers are at the same 0075. A silicone oil and/or a silicone gum can be added, time also film-forming polymers, and are therefore generally for example, as a care-providing Substance. In a particular typical Substances for shaping hair-treatment agents such as embodiment of the invention, the agents contain at least one hair setting agents, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. It is silicone oil and/or one silicone gum. Suitable silicone oils or certainly possible for film formation to be localized, and for silicone gums include, in particular, dialkyl- and alkylarylsi only a few fibers to be connected to one another. loxanes such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and 0069. Substances that furthermore impart hydrophobic methylphenylpolysiloxane, as well as alkoxylated, quater properties to the hair are preferred in this context, since they nized, or even anionic derivatives thereof. Cyclic and linear decrease the hair's tendency to absorb moisture, i.e. water. polydialkylsiloxanes, alkoxylated and/or aminated deriva This decreases loose hanging of Strands of hair, and thus tives thereof, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes, and polyphe ensures long-term hairstyle construction and retention. The nylalkylsiloxanes are preferred. so-called "curl retention’ test is often used as a test method 0076 Silicone oils produce a wide variety of effects. For for this. These polymeric substances can furthermore be suc example, they simultaneously influence dry and wet cessfully incorporated into leave-in and rinse-off hair thera combability, the feel of the dry and wet hair, and shine. The pies or shampoos. Because polymers are often multifunc skilled artisan understands the term “silicone oils” to mean tional, i.e. exhibit multiple effects that are desirable in terms several structures of organosilicon compounds. It is under of applications engineering, numerous polymers fall into stood firstly to mean the dimethiconols. These can be both multiple groups categorized in terms of effect; this is also the linear and branched, and also cyclic or cyclic and branched. case in the CFTA handbook. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the structural 0070. In one exemplary embodiment, agents that comprise formula of FIG. 1. Branched dimethiconols can be repre further film-forming and/or setting polymers comprise Such sented by the structural formula of FIG. 2. polymers in an amount from about 0.01 to about 20 wt %, (0077. The R' and R radicals each denote, mutually inde based on the entire hair setting agent. Preferably the polymers pendently, hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C to Colinear, are present in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 15 wt % saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radi of the hair setting agent. Several film-forming and/or setting cal, and/or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the polymers can of course also be contained, although the total radicals represented by R' and R include alkyl radicals such quantity of further film-forming and/or setting polymers is as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, preferably at most 20 wt %. In a preferred embodiment, the isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the agents comprise, as film-forming and/or setting polymers, like: alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, exclusively copolymers A and film-forming and/or setting allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl, cycloalkyl radicals such as amphoteric polymers B. cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and the like; phenyl 0071. The agents according to the present invention con radicals, benzyl radicals, halogenated hydrocarbon radicals tain copolymers A and the film-forming and/or setting such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, amphoteric polymers B in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl, and the like, In one exemplary embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable and Sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mer carriers are aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous/alcoholic media. captopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl, and the like. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable car Preferably, R' and Rare an alkyl radical that contains 1 to riers have at least about 10 wt % water based on the entire approximately 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably R' and agent. In another embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable Rare methyl. The numbers x, y, and Zare whole numbers and carriers comprise the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon range, mutually independently in each case, from 0 to 50,000. atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, for example, etha The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between nol and isopropanol. 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

and 10,000,000 cps, measured at 25°C. using a glass capil thicones are between 1000D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosi lary viscosimeter in accordance with Dow Corning Corporate ties are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs, measured at 25°C. Test Method CTM 0004 of Jul. 20, 1970. Preferred viscosities using a glass capillary viscosimeter in accordance with Dow are between 1000 and 5,000,000 cps, and more preferred Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of Jul. 20, 1970. viscosities are between 10,000 und 3,000,000 cPs. The most Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5,000,000 cps, preferred range is between 50,000 und 2,000,000 cBs. and more preferred viscosities are between 10,000 und 3,000, 0078. The following commercial products are recited as 000 cFs. The most preferred range is between 50,000 und examples of suitable silicone oils: Botanisil NU-150M (Bot 2,000,000 cPs. anigenics), Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 I0081 Dimethicone copolyols constitute a further group of Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol silicones that are suitable. Dimethicone copolyols can be (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21 represented by the following structural formulas of FIG. 5 5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care and FIG. 6. Branched dimethicone copolyols can be repre Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical sented by the structural formula of FIG. 7 or by the structural Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzene formula of FIG. 8. sulfonate (A&E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B I0082. The R' and R radicals each denote, mutually inde C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, pendently, hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C to Colinear, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radi Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401DC (all the aforesaid Chem cal, and/or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the sil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning radicals represented by R' and R include alkyl radicals such 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the Blend (all the aforesaid Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel like: alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion allyl, haloallyl, and alkylallyl, cycloalkyl radicals such as (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and the like; phenyl Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Labora radicals, benzyl radicals, halogenated hydrocarbon radicals tories), Nonychosine E. Nonychosine V (both ExSymol), San such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, Surf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Labo chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl, and the like, ratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), and Sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mer Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all the aforesaid captopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl, and the like. Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, In a preferred embodiment, RandR are an alkyl radical that SM2785 (all the aforesaid GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, contains 1 to approximately 6 carbon atoms, and more pref Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), THV erably R' and R are methyl. PE denotes a polyoxyalkylene 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Che radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from mie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and glycerol. The numbers Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker X, y, and Z are whole numbers and range, mutually indepen Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil dently in each case, from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights DM8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all the aforesaid of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. Wacker-Chemie GmbH). The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs, mea 0079 Silicone oils suitable for use in the agents may also Sured at 25°C. using a glass capillary viscosimeter in accor comprise dimethicones. Dimethicones can be both linear and dance with Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 branched, and also cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear of Jul. 20, 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and dimethicones can be represented by the following structural 5,000,000 cps, and more preferred viscosities are between formula of FIG.3. Branched dimethicones can be represented 10,000 und 3,000,000 cPs. The most preferred range is by the structural formula of FIG. 4. between 50,000 und 2,000,000 cps. Corresponding dimethi 0080. The R' and R radicals each denote, mutually inde cone copolyols are commercially obtainable and are mar pendently, hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C to Co linear, keted, for example, by Dow Corning of Midland, Mich. under saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radi the designation Dow Corning.R. 5330 Fluid. cal, and/or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the 0083. It will be understood that the dimethiconols, dime radicals represented by R' and R include alkyl radicals such thicones, and/or dimethicone copolymers can already be as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, present as an emulsion. The corresponding emulsion of the isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the dimethiconols, dimethicones, and/or dimethicone copolyols like: alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, can be manufactured both after manufacture of the corre allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl, cycloalkyl radicals such as sponding dimethiconols, dimethicones, and/or dimethicone cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and the like; phenyl copolyols, from them and using usual emulsification methods radicals, benzyl radicals, halogenated hydrocarbon radicals known to the skilled artisan. For this purpose both cationic, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl. anionic, nonionic, or Zwitterionic Surfactants and emulsifiers chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl, and the like, can be used, as auxiliaries, as adjuvants for manufacture of and Sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mer the corresponding emulsions. The emulsions of the dimethi captopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl, and the like. conols, dimethicones, and/or dimethicone copolyols can of In a preferred embodiment, R' and Rare an alkyl radical that course also be manufactured directly by way of an emulsion contains 1 to approximately 6 carbon atoms, and more pref polymerization method. Such methods, too, are very familiar erably R' and R are methyl. The numbers x, y, and Z are to the skilled artisan. whole numbers and range, mutually independently in each I0084. In one exemplary embodiment, emulsions of the case, from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dime dimethiconols, dimethicones, and/or dimethicone copolyols US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

comprise emulsified particles having a droplet size of from OCH , —(CH2)C(O)OCH2CH2—, —CHCH , about 0.01 to about 10,000 um, preferably from about 0.01 to —CHCH-CH , and —(CH2)C(O)SCH2CH2—. about 100 um, more preferably from about 0.01 to about 20 I0087 Z is an organic aminofunctional radical containing um, and most preferably from about 0.01 to about 10um. The at least one functional amino group. One possible formula for particle size is determined using the light-scattering method. Z is NH(CH)NH2, where Zdenotes a whole number from 1 to 50. Another possible formula for Z is —NH(CH2)(CH) 0085. The terms “branched dimethiconols, dimethi NH, in which both Zand ZZ, mutually independently, denote cones, and/or dimethicone copolyols mean that the branching a whole number from 1 to 50; this structure encompasses is greater than a random branching that occurs randomly as a diaminoring structures such as piperazinyl. Z is most prefer result of contaminants in the respective monomers. ably a NHCHCH-NH2 radical. Another possible formula "Branched' dimethiconols, dimethicones, and/or dimethi for Z is N(CH), NX'X or NX'X, in which X and X’ are cone copolyols are therefore to be understood, for purposes of selected, mutually independently in each case, from hydro the present invention, to mean that the degree of branching is gen and a hydrocarbon radical having approximately 1 to greater than 0.01%. A degree of branching greater than 0.1% approximately 6 carbon atoms. is preferred, and more preferably the degree of branching is I0088 Very particularly preferably, Q denotes a polar ami greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined nofunctional radical of the formula from the ratio of unbranched monomers to the branching - CHCHCH-NHCHCH-NH. monomers, i.e. the quantity of tri- and tetrafunctional silox I0089. The molar ratio of the RQ,SiO2 units to the anes. Both low-branching and high-branching dimethiconols, RSiO2 units is in the range of from approximately 1:2 to dimethicones, and/or dimethicone copolyols are Suitable for 1:65, preferably from approximately 1:6 to approximately use in the agents. 1:65, and more preferably from approximately 1:15 to 0.086 Suitable silicones are, in addition, aminofunctional approximately 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above silicones, in particular the silicones that are grouped under the formulas are used, the different variable substituents in the INCI name Amodimethicone. These are to be understood as above formula can be different in the different silicone com silicones that comprise at least one, optionally Substituted, ponents that are present in the silicone mixture. amino group. Such silicones can be described, for example, 0090 Preferred aminofunctional silicones correspond to by the formula of FIG. 9, where: R is a hydrocarbon or the formula of FIG. 10 where: hydrocarbon radical having 1 to approximately 6 carbon 0.091 G is —H, a phenyl group, —OH, —O CH, atoms; Q is a polar radical of the general formula R'Z, in —CH, —CHCH, —CHCHCH. —CH(CH), which R" is a bivalent connecting group that is bound to —CH2CHCHH, —CH2CH(CH), —CH(CH) hydrogen and to the Z radical, made up of carbon and hydro CHCH. —C(CH): gen atoms, carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen atoms, or carbon, 0092 a denotes a number between 0 and 3, in particular hydrogen, and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic amino 0: functional radical that contains at least one aminofunctional 0.093 b denotes a number between 0 and 1, in particular group; 'a' assumes values in the range from approximately 0 1 to approximately 2; “b' assumes values in the range from 0094 m and n are numbers whose sum (m+n) is approximately 1 to approximately 3: “a'+'b' is less than or between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, in equal to about 3; and 'c' is a number in the range of from preferably has a value of from about 0 to about 1999 and approximately 1 to approximately 3, X is a number in the more preferably from about 49 to about 149, and m range from approximately 1 to approximately 2,000, prefer preferably has a value of from about 1 to about 2000, ably from approximately 3 to approximately 50, and more more preferably from about 1 to about 10; preferably from approximately 3 to approximately 25; y is a 0.095 R is a monovalent radical selected from: number in the range from approximately 20 to approximately 10,000, preferably from approximately 125 to approximately 0096 - N(R"). CH, CH, N(R"); 10,000, and more preferably from approximately 150 to (0097 - N(R"); approximately 1,000; and M is a suitable silicone terminal (0.098 - N'-(R")A; group that is known in the existing art, for example, trimeth (0099 NH(R").A; ylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the radicals represented 0100 NH(R")A; and by R include alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, propyl. 01.01 - N(R"). CH, CH N'R"HA; isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, 0102 each R" denoting identical or different radicals isohexyl and the like: alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovi from the group of H. phenyl, benzyl, the Coalkyl nyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, and alkylallyl cycloalkyl radicals, preferably —CH, —CHCH radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the —CHCHCH, —CH(CH), —CHCHCHH, like: phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halocarbon radicals —CH2CH(CH), —CH(CH)CHCH. —C(CH), such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl. and A representing an anion that is preferably selected chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl, and the like, from chloride, bromide, iodide, or methosulfate. and Sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mer 0103 More preferred aminofunctional silicones corre captopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; R spond to the formula of FIG. 11 where m and n are numbers is preferably an alkyl radical that contains 1 to approximately whose sum (m+n) is between about 1 and about 2000, pref 6 carbon atoms, and R is more preferably methyl. Examples erably between about 50 and about 150: n preferably has a of R' include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethyl value from about 0 to about 1999 and more preferably from ene, decamethylene. —CH2CH(CH)CH , phenylene, about 49 to about 149, and m preferably has a value of from naphthylene. —CHCH-SCHCH , —CH2CHOCH2—, about 1 to about 2000, more preferably from about 1 to about –OCHCH , OCHCHCH , —CHCH(CH)C(O) 10. US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

0104. These silicones are referred to according to the INCI silicones of the mixture very largely at a ratio of approxi declaration as Trimethylsilylamodimethicone. mately 1:1, based in each case on the quantities utilized in wt 0105. Also particularly preferred are aminofunctional sili %. cones of the formula of FIG. 12 where R denotes —OH, 0117 The agents contain the silicones preferably in quan —O—CH, ora—CH group, and m, n1, and n2 are numbers tities from 1 to 25 wt %, more preferably from 5 to 20 wt %, whose sum (m+n1+n2) is between about 1 and about 2000, and most preferably from 7 to 15 wt %, based on the entire preferably between about 50 and about 150, the sum (n1+n2) agent. preferably has a value of from about 0 to about 1999 and more preferably from about 49 to about 149, and m preferably has 0118. Although the agent preferably contains a silicone a value of from about 1 to about 2000, more preferably from derivative as a care-providing Substance, it is also possible for about 1 to about 10. the agent to contain, instead of or in addition to a silicone 0106 These silicones are referred to according to the INCI component, at least one care-providing Substance of another declaration as Amodimethicone, and are obtainable, for compound class. The agent can contain as a care-providing example, in the form of an emulsion as the commercial prod Substance of another compound class, for example, at least uct Dow Corning R 949, mixed with a cationic and a nonionic one protein hydrolysate and/or one of its derivatives. Protein Surfactant. hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by the acid-, 0107. In a preferred embodiment, those aminofunctional base-, or enzyme-catalyzed breakdown of proteins. The term silicones have an amine number above 0.25 med/g, more “protein hydrolysates' is also understood according to vari preferably above 0.3 meq/g, and most preferably above 0.4 ous embodiments of the present invention to mean total med/g are. The amine number denotes the millieduivalent of hydrolysates as well as individual amino acids and their amine per gram of the aminofunctional silicone; it can be derivatives, as well as mixtures of different amino acids. ascertained by titration, and also indicated with the “mg Polymers constructed from amino acids and amino-acid KOH/g' unit. derivatives are also contemplated under the term “protein 0108 Further suitable silicones include, for example: hydrolysates.” Included among the latter are, for example, 0109 oligomeric polydimethylcyclosiloxanes (INCI polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further name: Cyclomethicone), in particular the tetrameric and examples of Suitable compounds are L-alanyl-L-proline, the pentameric compound, which are marketed by Dow polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine, or D/L-methionine-S-me Corning as commercial products DC 245 Fluid, DC 344 thylsulfonium chloride. B-Amino acids and their derivatives, or DC 345; Such as B-alanine, anthranilic acid, or hippuric acid, can of 0110 hexamethyldisiloxane (INCI name: Hexamethyl course also be used. The molecular weight of the protein disiloxane), e.g. the product marketed under the desig hydrolysates is between about 75 (the molecular weight of nation Abil(R) K520; glycine) and about 200,000 dalton; preferably the molecular 0111 polyphenylmethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Phenyl weight is about 75 to about 50,000 dalton, and more prefer Trimethicone), e.g. the commercial product DC 556 ably about 75 to about 20,000 dalton. Cosmetic Grade Fluid of Dow Corning: 0119. According to the present invention, protein hydroly 0112 esters and partial esters of the silicone-glycol sates of both plantand animal origin, or of marine or synthetic copolymers, such as those marketed, for example, by the origin, can be used. Animal protein hydrolysates are, for Fanning Corporation, Chicago, Ill., cunder the commer example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and milk protein cial designation Fancorsil.R LIM (INCI name: Dimethi hydrolysates, which can also be present in the form of salts. cone Copolyol Meadowfoamate); and Such products are marketed, for example, under the trade 0113 anionic silicone oils such as, for example, the marks Dehylan R (Cognis), Promois(R (Interorgana), Col product Dow Corning.R. 1784. lapuron(R) (Cognis), Nutrilan R (Cognis), Gelita-SolR) (Deut 0114. According to a preferred embodiment, the agent sche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein(R) (Inolex), comprises at least two different silicone derivatives, more Sericin (Pentapharm), and Kerasol R (Croda). preferably a combination of a volatile and a non-volatile 0.120. The use of silk protein hydrolysates is of particular silicone. Those silicones that exhibit a volatility equal to or interest. "Silk' is understood as the fibers of the cocoon of the greater than the Volatility of cyclic pentameric dimethylsilox mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber is ane are “volatile' for purposes of the invention. Such combi made up of a double thread offibroin. Sericin serves as a glue nations are also available as commercial products (e.g. Dow substance holding this double thread together. Silk is made up Corning(R) 1401, Dow Corning.R. 1403, and Dow Corning R of 70 to 80 wt % fibroin, 19 to 28 wt % sericin, 0.5 to 1 wt % 1501, in each case mixtures of a cyclomethicone and a dime fat, and 0.5 to 1 wt % coloring agents and mineral constitu thiconol). entS. 0115 Preferred mixtures of different silicones are, for I0121 The essential constituents of sericin are approxi example, dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethi mately 46 wt % hydroxyamino acids. Sericin is made up of a cones and cyclic dimethiconols. In a preferred embodiment, group of 5 to 6 proteins. The essential amino acids of sericin the mixture of silicones is made up of at least one cyclic are serine (Ser, 37 wt %), aspartate (Asp, 26 wt %), glycine dimethiconol and/or dimethicone, at least one further non (Gly, 17 wt %), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu), and tyrosine cyclic dimethicone and/or dimethiconol, and at least one ami (Tyr). nofunctional silicone. 0.122 Water-insoluble fibroin is included among the scle 0116. When different silicones are used as a mixture, the roproteins having along-chain molecular structure. The prin mixing ratio is largely variable. Preferably, however, all the cipal constituents offibroin are glycine (44 wt %), alanine (26 silicones used for mixing are utilized at a ratio from 5:1 to 1:5 wt %), and tyrosine (13 wt %). A further essential structural in the case of a binary mixture. A ratio from 3:1 to 1:3 is feature of fibroin is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala particularly preferred. Most preferred mixtures contain the Gly-Ala-Gly. US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

0123. It is technically simple to separate the two silk pro 0.135 a mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine, and teins from one another. It is therefore not surprising that both tyrosine and/or the methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, sericin and fibroin are known, each individually, as raw mate isobutyl esters thereof, the salts thereof such as, for rials for use in cosmetic products. Protein hydrolysates and example, hydrochlorides, Sulfates, acetates, citrates, tar derivatives based on the respective individual silk proteins are trates, such that the glycine and/or derivatives thereof is also known raw materials in cosmetic agents. For example, contained in said mixture in quantities from about 20 to sericinas such is marketed by Pentapharm Ltd. as a commer about 60 wt %, the alanine and derivatives thereof in cial product with the designation Sericin Code 303-02. quantities from about 10 to about 40 wt %, and the Fibroin is offered far more frequently on the market as a tyrosine and derivatives thereof in quantities from about protein hydrolysate, at various molecular weights. These 0 to about 25 wt %, with the stipulation that the quanti hydrolysates are marketed in particular as “silk hydroly ties of said amino acids and/or derivatives thereof by sates. Hydrolyzed fibroin having average molecular weights preference add up to 100 w '%; and between 350 and 1000 is marketed, for example, under the 0.136 mixtures thereof. commercial designation Promois(R) Silk. 0.137 Particularly good care-providing properties can be 0.124. The positive properties of the silk protein deriva achieved if one of the two active-substance components of the tives from sericin and fibroin, individually for each one, are active-substance complex (A) is used in the native or, if need known in the literature. The cosmetic effects of sericin on the be, solubilized form. It is also possible to utilize a mixture of skin have been described as irritation-soothing, hydrating, several active Substances (A1) and/or (A2). and film-forming. The effect of a fibroin derivative is 0.138. It may be preferred to use the two active substances described, for example in DE 31 39 438 A1, as providing care (A1) and (A2) in the agents at a ratio from about 10:90 to to and revival of the hair. According to DE 10240 757 A1, about 70:30, preferably about 15:85 to about 50:50, and more with the simultaneous use of sericin and fibroin, orderivatives preferably about 20:80 to about 40:60, based on their respec and/hydrolysates thereof, it is furthermore possible to achieve tive active-substance contents. a synergistic increase in the positive effects of the silk pro 0.139. The derivatives of the hydrolysates of sericin and teins and their derivatives. fibroin encompass both anionic and cationized protein 0.125. In a preferred embodiment, therefore the agent com hydrolysates. The protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin, prises as a silk protein hydrolysate an active-substance com and the derivatives manufactured therefrom, can be obtained plex (A) comprising the active Substance (A1) selected from from the corresponding proteins by way of a chemical, in sericin, sericin hydrolysates, and/or derivatives thereof, as particular alkaline or acid, hydrolysis, by an enzymatic well as mixtures thereof, and an active Substance (A2) hydrolysis, and/or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. selected from fibroin and/or fibroin hydrolysates and/or The hydrolysis of proteins results, as a rule, in a protein derivatives thereof and/or mixtures thereof. The active-sub hydrolysate having a molecular weight distribution from stance complex (A) significantly improves, in Synergistic approximately 100 dalton up to several thousand dalton. In an fashion, the essential internal and external structural features exemplary embodiment, those protein hydrolysates of sericin presented above, and both the strength and elasticity of and/or fibroin and/or derivatives thereof have an underlying human hairs. protein component with a molecular weight of from about 0126 The following can be used as active substances (A1) 100 to about 25,000 dalton, preferably about 250 to about in the active-substance complex (A): 10,000 dalton. Also to be understood as cationic protein 0127 native sericin; hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin are quaternized amino I0128 hydrolyzed and/or further derivatized sericin, for acids and mixtures thereof. Quaternization of the protein example commercial products having the INCI names hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out by means of Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed Silk: quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N,N-dim I0129 a mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate, and ethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)ammo glycine and/or the methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, nium halides. The cationic protein hydrolysates can further isobutyl esters thereof, the salts thereof such as, for more also be further derivatized. Typical examples that may example, hydrochlorides, Sulfates, acetates, citrates, tar be mentioned of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives trates, such that the serine and/or derivatives thereof are usable in the agents are the following products listed under contained in said mixture at about 20 to about 60 wt %, the INCI names in the “International Cosmetic Ingredient the aspartate and/or derivatives thereof at about 10 to Dictionary and Handbook’, (seventh edition 1997. The Cos about 40 wt %, and the glycine and/or derivatives thereof metic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 1101 17" Street, at about 5 to about 30 wt %, with the stipulation that the N.W., Suite 300, Washington, D.C. 20036-4702), and avail quantities of said amino acids and/or derivatives thereof able commercially: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydro by preference add up to 100 wt %; and lyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldi 0.130 mixtures thereof. monium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium 0131 The following can be used as active substances (A2) Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydro in the active-substance complex (A): lyzed Silk. Typical examples that may be mentioned of the (0132 native fibroin converted into a soluble form: anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the 0.133 hydrolyzed and/or further derivatized fibroin, present invention are the following products listed under the especially partly hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as a INCI names in the “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dic principal constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly tionary and Handbook'. (seventh edition 1997. The Cos Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly; metic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, 0.134 the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala N.W., Suite 300, Washington, D.C. 20036-4702), and com Gly: mercially available: Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk, or Sodium Stearoyl for example, under the trademarks Stepantex(R), Dehyduart(R), Hydrolyzed Silk. Lastly, the following products obtainable and Armocare(R). The products Armocare RVGH-70, an N.N- commercially under their INCI names may be mentioned as bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, as typical examples of the derivatives of sericin and fibroin well as DehyduartR) F-75, Dehyduart(R) C-4046, DehyduartR) usable according to the present invention: Ethyl Ester of L80, and Dehyduart(R) AU-35, are examples of such ester Hydrolyzed Silk, and Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsi quats. lanediol. Also usable are the commercially obtainable prod ucts having the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmi 0146 The alkylamidoamines are usually produced by toyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, with dialkylaminoamines. A compound from this Substance Hexapeptide-1. Hexapeptide-2, and MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk. group that is particularly Suitable according to the present 0140. The effect of the active-substance complex (A) can invention is represented by the Stearamidopropyldimethy be further enhanced by the addition offatty substances. “Fatty lamine available commercially under the designation Tegoa Substances are to be understood as fatty acids, fatty alcohols, mid(R) S 18. natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in 0147 The cationic surfactants are contained in the agents Solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and in quantities from about 0.05 to about 10 wt % based on the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. entire agent. Quantities from about 0.1 to about 5 wt % are 0141 Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin, e.g. soy, particularly preferred. almond, bean, potato, and wheat protein hydrolysates, are 0.148 Also Suitable as a care-providing Substance are care obtainable, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin R providing polymers. Be it noted at this juncture that some (Cognis), DiaMinr. (Diamalt), Lexein(R) (Inolex), care-giving polymers also exhibit film-forming and/or setting Hydrosoy(R) (Croda), Hydrolupin(R) (Croda), Hydrosesame(R) properties, and can therefore also be recited in the listing of (Croda), Hydrotritium(R) (Croda), and Crotein(R) (Croda). Suitable film-forming and/or setting polymers. A first group 0142. Although the use of protein hydrolysates perse is of care-providing polymers is the cationic polymers. “Cat preferred, it is also optionally possible to use instead of them, ionic polymers' are to be understood herein as polymers that if applicable, amino-acid mixtures obtained in different fash comprise in the main chain and/or side chain a group that can ion. It is likewise possible to use derivatives of protein be “temporarily’ or “permanently” cationic. According to hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid con various embodiments of the present invention, those poly densation products. Such products are marketed, for example, mers that possess a cationic group regardless of the pH of the under the designations LameponR (Cognis), Lexein(R) (In agent are referred to as “permanently cationic. These are, as olex), Crolastin R) (Croda), CrosilkR) (Croda), or Crotein(R) a rule, polymers that contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for (Croda). All isomeric forms, such as cis-trans isomers, dias example, in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cat tereomers, and chiral isomers, are further contemplated ionic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, herein. In an exemplary embodiment, a mixture of several those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is protein hydrolysates are used. bound via a Ca hydrocarbon group to a main polymer chain 0143. The protein hydrolysates are contained in the made up of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their derivatives, agents, for example, in concentrations of from about 0.01 wit have proven to be particularly suitable. % to about 20 wt %, preferably from about 0.05 wt % to about 0149. In a preferred embodiment, the cationic polymers 15 wt %, and more preferably in quantities from about 0.05 wt are homopolymers of the general formula of FIG. 13 where % to about 5 wt %, based in each case on the entire application R" is H or —CH. R. R. and R are selected, mutually preparation. independently, from C alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxyalkyl 0144 Cationic surfactants are further suitable as a care groups, m is the number 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number, and providing Substance of another compound class. In a pre X is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, ferred embodiment, cationic Surfactants of the quaternary as well as copolymers made up Substantially of the monomer ammonium compound, esterquat, and amide amine types units presented in the formula of FIG. 13 as well as noniono utilized. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are genic monomer units. In a preferred embodiment at least one ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, of the following conditions applies, Such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethy R" denotes a methyl group, lammonium chlorides, and trialkylmethylammonium chlo rides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyltrim R. Rand R' denote methyl groups, and ethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium m has the value of 2. chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimeth 0150. Suitable as physiologically acceptable counterions ylbenzylammonium chloride, and tricetylmethylammonium X include, for example, halide ions, Sulfate ions, phosphate chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under ions, methosulfate ions, and organic ions such as lactate, the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The citrate, tartrate, and acetate ions. Halide ions, in particular long alkyl chains of the aforementioned surfactants prefer chloride, are preferred. ably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms. 0151. A particularly suitable homopolymer is the poly 0145 Esterquats are known substances that contain both (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammo (crosslinked, if desired) having the INCI name Polyduater nium group as structural elements. Preferred esterquats are nium-37. The crosslinking can be accomplished, if desired, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, with the aid of polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalky example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene lamines, and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1.2- bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ether, or dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed, allyl ethers of Sugars or Sugar derivatives such as erythritol, US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011 pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, Sorbitol. Sucrose, or glu diethyl sulfate. Such compounds are obtainable com cose. Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred cross-linking mercially under the designations GafquatR) 734 and agent. GafquatR 755; 0152 The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of 0162 vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazolium methochlo a nonaqueous polymer dispersion that should comprise a ride copolymers, such as those offered under the desig polymer proportion not less than about 30 wt %. Such poly nations Luviguatr FC 370, FC 550, FC 905, and HM mer dispersions are obtainable commercially under the des 552; ignations Salcare(R) SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer proportion, 0.163 quaternized poly(vinylalcohol); and further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) 0.164 the polymers known under the designations and tridecylpolyoxypropylenepolyoxyethylene ether (INCI Polyduaternium-2, Polyduaternium-17, Polyduater name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)), and Salcare R SC 96 (approx. nium-18, and Polyduaternium-27, having quaternary 50% polymer proportion, further components: mixture of nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain. diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and 0.165. The polymers known under the designations capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dica Polyduaternium-24 (commercial product e.g. Quatrisoft(R) prate) and tridecylpolyoxypropylenepolyoxyethylene ether LM 200) can similarly be used as cationic polymers. Likewise (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)). usable according to the present invention are the copolymers 0153 Copolymers having monomer units according to of vinylpyrrolidone such as those available as the commercial formula of FIG. 13 preferably contain acrylamide, methacry products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix(R) VC lamide, acrylic acid C. alkyl esters, and methacrylic acid 713 (manufacturer: ISP), GafquatRASCP 1011, GafquatR) C. alkyl esters as nonionogenic monomer units. Of these HS 110, LuviduatR 8155, and LuviduatR MS 370. nonionogenic monomers, acrylamide is particularly pre 0166 Additional suitable cationic polymers include are ferred. These copolymers, as well as in the case of the the so-called “temporarily cationic' polymers. These poly homopolymers described above, can be crosslinked. A pre mers usually contain an amino group that is present at certain ferred copolymer is the crosslinked copolymer of acrylamide pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and therefore and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride. cationically. Chitosan and its derivatives. Such as those Such copolymers, in which the monomers are present at a readily available commercially, for example, under the com weight ratio of approximately 20:80, are commercially mercial designations Hydagen R. CMF, Hydagen R. HCMF, obtainable, as an approximately 50% nonaqueous polymer Kytamer(R) PC, and Chitolam(R) NB/101, are, for example, dispersion, under the designation SalcareRSC 92. preferred. 0154 Additional preferred cationic polymers include, for 0167. In a preferred embodiment, the cationic polymers example: are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its deriva 0155 quaternized cellulose derivatives such as those tives, in particular the commercial products Polymer R JR obtainable commercially under the designations 400, Hydagen R. HCMF, and Kytamer R. PC, cationic guar Celouat Rand Polymer JRR). The compounds Celquat(R) derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the com H 100, Celquat R L 200, and Polymer JRR 400 are mercial product Honeyquat(R) 50, cationic alkylpolyglyco preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives; sides according to DE Patent 44 13 686, and polymers of the 0156 cationic alkylpolyglycosides according to DE Polyduaternium-37 type. Patent 44 13 686; 0168 Also to be listed among the suitable cationic poly 0157 cationized honey, for example the commercial mers are cationized protein hydrolysates, in which context the product Honeycuatr) 50: underlying protein hydrolysate can derive from animals, for 0158 cationic guarderivatives such as, in particular, the example from collagen, milk, or keratin, from plants, for products marketed under the trade names CosmediaR) example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy, or almonds, Guar and Jaguar R; from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or 0159 polysiloxanes having quaternary groups, such as, algae, or biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolysates. for example, the commercially obtainable products The protein hydrolysates serving as the basis for the cationic Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized tri derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins methylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning R 929 by way of a chemical, in particular alkaline or acid, hydroly Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified sili sis, by an enzymatic hydrolysis, and/or a combination of both cone that is also referred to as Amodimethicone), types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins results, as a SM-2O59 (manufacturer: General Electric), rule, in a protein hydrolysate having a molecular weight dis SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker), and Abil R-Quat tribution from approximately 100 dalton up to several thou 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; didua sand dalton. In an exemplary embodiment, the agents com ternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80); prise cationic protein hydrolysates having an underlying 0160 polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and protein component with a molecular weight from about 100 their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid to about 25,000 dalton, preferably about 250 to about 5,000 and methacrylic acid. The products available commer dalton. Also to be understood as cationic protein hydrolysates cially under the designations Merquat(R) 100 (poly(dim are quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Quater ethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat(R) 550 nization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride/acrylamide carried out by means of quaternary ammonium salts such as, copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers; for example, N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3- 0.161 copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized chloro-n-propyl)ammonium halides. derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacry 0169. The cationic protein hydrolysates can also be further late, such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethy derivatized. Typical examples that may be mentioned of Suit laminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with able cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are the US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011 following products listed under the INCI names in the “Inter particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably national Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook', used as monomer (b) for the aforesaid polymerizates. (seventh edition 1997. The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance 0172. In an exemplary embodiment, the agents contain the Association, 1101 17 Street, N.W., Suite 300, Washington, care-providing cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in a D.C. 20036-4702), and available commercially: Cocodimo nium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium quantity of from about 0.01 to about 5 wt %, and preferably in Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium a quantity of from about 0.1 to about 2 wt %, based in each Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium case on the entire agent. Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium 0173 The agent according to the present invention can Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium furthermore contain at least one vitamin, provitamin, vitamin Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium precursor, and/or derivative thereofas a care-providing Sub Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium stance. Those vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl that are usually allocated to the groups A, B, C, E, F, and Hare Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimo preferred. nium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, 0.174. The group of substances referred to as vitamin A Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrox includes retinol (vitamin A) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol ypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydrox (vitaminA). B-Carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Suitable ypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltri Vitamin A components include, for example, Vitamin A acid monium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde, and vitamin A alcohol as Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrox well as its esters such as the palmitate and acetate. The agents ypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltri contain the vitamin A component preferably in quantities of monium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimo from about 0.05 to about 1 wt % based on the entire agent. nium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, 0.175 Members of the vitamin B group or vitamin B com Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, plex include, among others: Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/ (0176 Vitamin B (thiamine); Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed (0177 Vitamin B (riboflavin): Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Col 0.178 Vitamin B. The compounds nicotinic acid and lagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide) are often listed under Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, this designation. Nicotinic acid amide is preferred. In an Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardi exemplary embodiment the agents comprise nicotinic monium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimo acid amide in quantities of from about 0.05 to about 1 wt nium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium % based on the entire agent; Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium 0.179 Vitamin B (pantothenic acid, panthenol, and Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium pantolactone). In the context of this group, panthenol Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimo and/or pantolactone are preferably used. Suitable nium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimo derivatives of panthenol are, in particular, the esters and nium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 ethers of panthenol as well as cationically derivatized Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydro panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its lyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, monoacetate, and cationic panthenol derivatives. In an and Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. The plant exemplary embodiment, the aforesaid compounds of the based cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are very vitamin B type are contained in the agents in quantities particularly preferred. of from about 0.05 to about 10 wt % based on the entire 0170 Amphoteric polymers used in preferred fashion are agent. Quantities of from about 0.1 to about 5 wt % are those polymerizates made up Substantially of preferred; and monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the gen 0180 vitamin B (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine eral formula of FIG. 14, where R' and R, mutually indepen and pyridoxal). In an exemplary embodiment, the afore dently, denote hydrogenoramethyl group, and R. RandR, said compounds of the vitamin B type are contained in each mutually independently, denote an alkyl group having 1 the agents in quantities of from about 0.01 to about 5 wt to 4 carbonatoms, Zdenotes an NH group or an oxygenatom, % based on the entire agent. Quantities of from about n is an integer from 2 to 5, and A is the anion of an organic 0.05 to about 1 wt % are preferred. or inorganic acid; and 0181. In an exemplary embodiment, vitamin C (ascorbic monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula of FIG. acid) is utilized in the in quantities of from about 0.1 to about 15, where R and R7, mutually independently, denote hydro 3 wt % based on the entire agent. Utilization in the form of the gen or a methyl group. palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or the phosphates are pre 0171 These compounds can be used according to the ferred. Utilization in combination with tocopherols likewise present invention both directly and in the form of salts that are is preferred. obtained by neutralization of the polymerizates, for example 0182. In an exemplary embodiment, vitamin E (toco using an alkaline hydroxide. Those polymerizates in which pherols, in particular C-tocopherol) and its derivatives, which monomers of type (a) are used, in which R. R. and Rare include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nico methyl groups, Z is an NH group, and A' is a halide, meth tinate, the phosphate, and the Succinate, are contained in the oxysulfate, or ethoxysulfate ion, are very particularly pre agents in quantities of from about 0.05 to about 1 wt % based ferred; acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a on the entire agent. US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

0183 In another exemplary embodiment, the agent com 0189 A number of carboxylic acids are also suitable as a prise vitamin F. The term “vitamin F is usually understood to care-providing Substance. Short-chain carboxylic acids can mean essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic be particularly advantageous for use in the agents. Short acid, and arachidonic acid. chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives are understood herein to be carboxylic acids that can be saturated or unsat 0184 In an exemplary embodiment, the agents comprise urated and/or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and/or aro vitamin H. This refers to (3aS4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahy matic and/or heterocyclic, and have a molecular weight below drothienol 3,4-d-imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which the 750. Saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched car trivial name “biotin' has nevertheless since become estab boxylic acids having a chain length of 1 to 16 carbonatoms in lished. In one embodiment biotin is contained in the agents in the chain are preferred; those having a chain length of 1 to 12 quantities of from about 0.0001 to about 1.0 wt %, preferably carbon atoms in the chain are more preferred. in quantities of from about 0.001 to about 0.01 wt %, based in 0190. The short-chain carboxylic acids can comprise one, each case on the entire agent. two, three, or more carboxy groups. Carboxylic acids having 0185. The agents preferably contain vitamins, provita multiple carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic mins, and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. acids, are preferred. The carboxy groups can be present Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives, as entirely or partly as an ester, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin, are particularly pre imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, ferred. hydraZone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amide oXime, 0186 D-panthenol, if applicable in combination with at nitrile, or phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic least one of the aforementioned silicone derivatives, is also acids can, of course, be substituted along the carbon chain or particularly preferably used as a care-providing Substance. the ring structure. Substituents of the carboxylic acids 0187. In one exemplary embodiment the agents can con include, for example, C to Cs alkyl, C. to Cs alkenyl, aryl, tain at least one plant extract as a care-providing Substance. aralkylandaralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C. to Cs hydroxyalkyl, These extracts are usually produced by extraction of the entire C. to Cs hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, C. to Cs aminoalkyl, plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to cyano, formyl, Oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, car produce the extracts exclusively from blossoms and/or leaves boxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C to Cs of the plant. With regard to plant extracts suitable for use in alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. the agents, reference is made in particular to the extracts that Substituents in the C-position are particularly preferred. Very are listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy, and of the Guideline for Declaring the Contents of Cosmetic amino groups, in which context the amino function can be Agents Leitfaden Zur Inhaltsstoffdeklaration kosmetischer further substituted, if application, with alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, Mittel, published by the Association of the personal hygiene and/or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, the phosphonic and and washing agents industry Industrieverband Körperp phosphate esters are likewise preferred carboxylic acid flegeund Waschmittel e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt. The extracts derivatives. from green tea, oak bark, nettle, hamamelis, hops, henna, 0191 The following may be mentioned as examples of chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blos carboxylic acids Suitable for the use in the agents: formic soms, almond, aloe Vera, pine needles, horse chestnut, San acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, dalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, Valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic kiwifruit, melon, orange, grapefruit, Salvia, rosemary, birch, acid, Succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic mallow, lady's-Smock, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, Suberic acid, azelaic acid, balm, restharrow, coltsfoot, hibiscus, meristem, ginseng, and sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, ginger root are preferred. Of these, the extracts from green elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citra tea, oak bark, nettle, hamamelis, hops, chamomile, burdock conic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, root, horsetail, linden blossoms, almond, aloe Vera, coconut, o.m.p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluic acid, hydratropic mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi fruit, melon, orange, acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic grapefruit, Salvia, rosemary, birch, lady's-Smock, wildthyme, acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, yarrow, restharrow, meristem, ginseng, and ginger root are 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1.2.4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, more preferred and extracts from green tea, almond, aloe 2-pyrrollecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-napthalenepentaacetic Vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwifruit, and acid, malonaldehydic acid, 4-hydroxyphthalamidic acid, melon are most preferred. 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid, or propanetricarboxy 0188 Water, alcohols, and mixtures thereof can be used as lic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed extraction agents for manufacturing the aforesaid plant by compounds of the general formula of FIG. 16, where Z extracts. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 and isopropanol, but in particular polyvalent alcohols such as to 12 carbonatoms, n is a number from 4 to 12, and one of the ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the only extrac two groups X and Y denotes a —COOH group and the other tion agent and mixed with water, are preferred. Plant extracts hydrogen a methyl or ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the based on water/propylene glycol at a ratio from 1:10 to 10:1 general formula of FIG.16that additionally bear 1 to 3 methyl have proven particularly suitable. The plant extracts can be or ethyl Substituents on the cyclohexene ring, as well as used in both pure and diluted form. If they are used in diluted dicarboxylic acids resulting from the dicarboxylic acids form, they usually contain approx. 2 to 80 wt % active sub according to formula of FIG. 16, in formal terms, by the stance, and contain as a solvent the extraction agent or extrac attachment of one molecule of water to the double bond in the tion agent mixture used to obtain them. It may furthermore be cyclohexene ring. preferred to use in the agents mixtures of several, in particular 0.192 Dicarboxylic acids of formula of FIG.16 are known two, different plant extracts. in the literature. A manufacturing method may be inferred, for US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011 example, from U.S. Pat. No. 3,753,968. The dicarboxylic atoms, i.e. for example fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alco acids of the formula of FIG. 16 can be produced, for example, hols. The esters of C2 to Cs fatty alcohols are particularly by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsatur preferred in this context. Esters of this type are obtainable ated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder commercially, e.g. under the trademark Cosmacol R of cyclization. It is usual to proceed from a polyunsaturated fatty EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred poly acid as a dicarboxylic acid component. Linoleic acid, acces hydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polytar sible from natural fats and oils, is preferred. Acrylic acid in taric acid as well as their esters. particular, but also e.g. methacrylic acid and crotonic acid, is 0198 Ectoin or ectoin derivatives, allantoin, taurine, and/ preferred as a monocarboxylic acid component. Diels-Alder or bisabolol are, furthermore, Suitable as a care-providing reactions usually result in isomer mixtures in which one com substance. The term “ectoin and ectoin derivatives” is under ponent is present in excess. Both these isomer mixtures and stood, according to various embodiments of the present the pure compounds can be used. invention, to mean compounds of the formula of FIG. 17 or of 0193 Also usable, in addition to the preferred dicarboxy the formula of FIG. 18 and/or their physiologically accept lic acids according to formula of FIG. 16, are those dicar able salts and/or an isomeric or stereoisomeric form, in boxylic acids that differ from the compounds according to which: formula of FIG. 16 by having 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substitu R" denotes a hydrogenatom, a branched or unbranched C to ents on the cyclohexyl ring, or are made up from those com Calkyl radical, or a C to Ca hydroxyalkyl radical; pounds in formal terms by the attachment of one molecule of R' denotes a hydrogen atom, a -COOR'' grouping, or a water to the double bond of the cyclohexene ring. —CO(NH)R grouping, in which context R' can denote a 0194 The dicarboxylic acid (mixture) resulting from the C to Calkyl radical, an amino acid radical, or a dipeptide or reaction of linoleic acid with acrylic acid has proven to be tripeptide radical; particularly effective for use in the agents. This is a mixture of R'' and R' denote, mutually independently, a hydrogen 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acids. atom, a C to C alkyl radical, or a hydroxy group, with the Such compounds are commercially available under the des stipulation that the two radicals must not simultaneously ignations Westvaco DiacidR 1550 and Westvaco Diacid R. denote a hydroxy group; and 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco). in denotes an integer from 1 to 3. 0.195. In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids listed 0199 Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of the gen above, their physiologically acceptable salts can also be used. eral compounds according to the formulas of FIG. 17 or FIG. Examples of such salts are the alkali, alkaline-earth, and Zinc 18 are, for example, the alkaline, alkaline-earth, ammonium, salts, as well as ammonium salts, among which the mono-, triethylamine, or tris-(2-hydroxyethyl)amine salts, as well as di-, and trimethyl-, ethyl-, and hydroxyethylammonium salts those that result from the reaction of compounds according to are also contemplated herein. Preferably, however, acids neu the formulas of FIG. 17 or FIG. 18 with inorganic and organic tralized with alkaline-reacting amino acids, for example argi acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, Sulfuric nine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, are used in the agents. It acid, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted can also be preferred for formulation reasons to select the (for example with one or more hydroxy groups) C to Ca carboxylic acid from the water-soluble representative, in par mono- or dicarboxylic acids, aromatic carboxylic acids and ticular the water-soluble salts. Sulfonic acids such as acetic acid, citric acid, benzoic acid, 0196. In a preferred embodiment, the carboxylic acid is maleic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, and p-toluenesulfonic 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives as a car acid. Examples of particularly preferred physiologically boxylic acid. Particularly preferred are the sodium, potas acceptable salts are the Na, K, Mg, Ca, and ammonium salts sium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts, in which of the compounds according to the formulas of FIG. 17 or context the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, FIG. 18, as well as the salts that result from the reaction of one to three C to C alkyl groups. The sodium salt is very compounds according to the formulas of FIG. 17 or FIG. 18 particularly preferred. In an embodiment, the quantities used with hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, citric acid, and benzoic in the agents are in the range of from about 0.05 to about 10 wt acid. % based on the entire agent, preferably from about 0.1 to 0200 Isomeric or stereoisomeric forms of the compounds about 5 wt %, and more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3 according to the formulas of FIG. 17 and FIG. 18 are under wt %. stood herein to mean all optical isomers, diastereomers, race 0197) In another embodiment, the carboxylic acid is a mates, Zwitterions, cations, or mixtures thereof that occur. hydroxycarboxylic acid, especially the dihydroxy-, trihy 0201 The term “amino acid' is understood to mean the droxy- and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, as well as the dihy Stereoisomeric forms, e.g. D- and L-forms, of the following droxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxydi, tri- and polycarboxy compounds: lic acid. It has been found in this context that in addition to the asparagine, arginine, asparagic acid, glutamine, glutamic hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters, acid, 3-alanine, Y-aminobutyrate, N-acetyllysine, N-acety as well as mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their lornithine, N-acetyldiaminobutyrate, N-acetyldiaminobu esters, and also polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their tyrate, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, phenylala esters, also can be utilized. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid nine, serine, threonine and tyrosine. L-amino acids are esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, preferred. Amino-acid radicals are derived from the corre malic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid. Additional hydroxy sponding amino acids. The following amino-acid radicals are carboxylic acid esters that are Suitable in principle are esters preferred: Gly, Ala, Ser. Thr, Val, B-Ala, y-aminobutyrate, of 8-hydroxypropionic acid, of tartronic acid, of D-gluconic Asp, Glu, ASn, Aln, N-acetyllysine, N-acetylornithine, N acid, of saccharic acid, of mucic acid, or of glucuronic acid. acetyldiaminobutyrate, N-acetyldiaminobutyrate. The Suitable as alcohol components of these esters are primary, amino acids have been abbreviated in accordance with gen linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon erally usual notation. The di- or tripeptide radicals are acid US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

amides in terms of their chemical nature, and decompose into 0210 Vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sun two or three amino acids upon hydrolysis. The amino acids in flower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond the di- or tripeptide radical are joined to one another by amide oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach-kernel bonds. With regard to the manufacture of di- and tripeptide oil, and the liquid components of coconut oil. Also Suit radicals, reference is expressly made to EP 0671 161 A1 of able, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the the Marbert company. Examples of di- and tripeptide radicals liquid components of beef tallow, as well as synthetic may also be inferred from the disclosure of EP 0671 161A1. triglyceride oils; 0202) Examples of C to Calkyl groups in the compounds 0211 Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, and synthetic of the formulas of FIG. 17 and FIG. 18 are methyl, ethyl, hydrocarbons, as well as di-n-alkyl ethers having a total n-propyl, isopropyl. n-butyl, isobutyl and tert.-butyl. Pre of between 12 and 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to ferred alkyl groups are methyl and ethyl; methyl is a particu 24 carbonatoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, larly preferred alkyl group. Preferred C to Ca hydroxyalkyl di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, groups are the 2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl or 4-hy di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-de droxybutyl groups; 2-hydroxyethyl is a particularly preferred cyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl hydroxyalkyl group. ether, and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether, as well as ditert.- 0203. In an exemplary embodiment, the agents contain butyl ether, diisopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, these care-providing Substances in quantities of from about tert.-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether, and 0.001 to about 2, preferably from about 0.01 to about 0.5 wt 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds 1,3-di %, based in each case on the entire agent. (2-ethylhexyl)cyclohexane (Cetiol R S) and di-n-octyl 0204 Mono- and oligosaccharides can also be used as a ether (Cetiolor OE), available as commercial products, care-providing Substance in the agents. Both monosaccha are preferred; rides and oligosaccharides, for example raw Sugar, milk 0212 Ester oils. “Ester oils” are to be understood as the Sugar, and raffinose, can be used. The use of monosaccharides esters of C to Co fatty acids with C to Co fatty alco is preferred. Among the monosaccharides, those compounds hols. The monoesters offatty acids with alcohols having containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms are in turn more preferred. 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty 0205 Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, acid components used in the esters are hexanoic acid, ribose, arabinose, Xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, decanoic acid, lau mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fruc ric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, tose. Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are carbohy palmitoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, drates that are preferably used; it is more preferred to use elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic glucose, which is Suitable both in the D-(+) or L-(-) configu acid, elaeoStearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, ration or as a racemate. Derivatives of these pentoses and behenic acid, and erucic acid, as well as industrial mix hexoses, such as the corresponding -onic and -uronic acids tures thereofthat occur, for example, upon high-pressure (Sugar acids), Sugar alcohols, and glycosides, can also be cleavage of natural fats and oils, upon oxidation of alde used. Preferred Sugar acids are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, hydes from Roelen oxosynthesis, or upon dimerization saccharic acid, mannosaccharic acid, and mucic acid. Pre of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol ferred Sugar alcohols are Sorbitol, mannitol, and dulcitol. components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, hex Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides. anol, octanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, decanol, lauryl alco 0206 Because the mono- or oligosaccharides that are used hol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, are usually obtained from natural raw materials such as palmoleyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, starch, in general they exhibit the configurations correspond oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, ing to those raw materials (e.g. D-glucose, D-fructose and linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, D-galactose). arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, 0207. In an exemplary embodiment, mono- or oligosac erucyl alcohol, and brassidyl alcohol, as well as indus charides are contained in the agents in a quantity of from trial mixtures thereofthat occur, for example, upon high about 0.1 to about 8 wt %, and preferably from about 1 to pressure hydrogenation of industrial methyl esters based about 5 wt %, based on the entire agent. on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen oxosynthesis, 0208. The agent can furthermore contain at least one lipid and as a monomer fraction upon dimerization of unsat as a care-providing Substance. Lipids suitable for use in the urated fatty alcohols. Particularly preferred are isopro agents are phospholipids, for example Soy lecithin, egg leci pyl myristate (Rilanit(R) IPM), isononanoic acid Ces thin, and kephalins, as well as the Substances known by the alkyl ester (Cetiol R SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cege INCI names Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride soft(R) 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol R868), Phosphate, Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phos cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol phate, and Stearamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phos caprinate/caprylate (Cetiol RLC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl phate. These are marketed, for example, by the Mona com erucate (Cetiol R J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit(R) pany under the commercial designations Phospholipid IPP), Oleyl Oleate (CetiolR), lauric acid hexyl ester EFAR), Phospholipid PTCR), and Phospholipid SV(R). In an (Cetiol R A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol R. B), myristyl exemplary embodiment, the agents contain the lipids in quan myristate (Cetiol R, MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate tities of from about 0.01 to about 10 wt %, and preferably of (Cetiol R. SN), and oleic acid decyl ester (CetiolRV): from about 0.1 to about 5 wt %, based on the entire agent. 0213 Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adi 0209 Oily substances are additionally suitable as a care pate, di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di(2-ethylhexyl) Succi providing Substance in the agents. Among the natural and nate, and diisotridecyl acelaate, as well as diol esters synthetic cosmetic oily Substances may be listed, for Such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisot example: ridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethyl hexanoate), US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011 15

propylene glycol disostearate, propylene glycol dipel large extent in the natural state, or already partly or very argonate, butanediol diisoStearate, and neopentylglycol largely as protein hydrolysates. A pearl extract in which con dicaprylate; chiolin and albuminoid are already present in partly hydro 0214 Symmetrical, asymmetrical, or cyclic esters of lyzed fashion is preferred. The essential amino acids of these carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, described for example proteins are glutamic acid, serine, alanine, glycine, asparagic in German Application DE 19756 454, glycerol carbon acid, and phenylalanine. In a further particularly preferred ate, or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol RCC); embodiment, it can be advantageous if the pearl extract is Fatty acid triesters of saturated and/or unsaturated linear and/ additionally enriched with at least one or more of these amino or branched fatty acids with glycerol; and Fatty acid partial acids. In the most preferred embodiment, the pearl extract is glycerides, i.e. monoglycerides, diglycerides, and industrial enriched with glutamic acid, serine, and leucine. In addition, mixtures thereof. When industrial products are used, small depending on the extraction conditions, in particular as a quantities of triglycerides can still be present for manufactur function of the extraction agent selected, a greater or lesser ing-related reasons. The partial glycerides preferably con proportion of minerals and trace elements may reappear in the form to formula of FIG. 19, (in which R', RandR, mutually extract. A preferred extract contains organic and/or inorganic independently, denote hydrogen or a linear or branched, Satu calcium salts as well as magnesium and sodium salts, inor rated and/or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, prefer ganic silicon compounds, and/or phosphates. A preferred ably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the stipulation that at least pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more one of these groups denotes an acyl radical and at least one of preferably 90%, and most preferably 95% of all the constitu these groups denotes hydrogen. The Sum (m+n+q) denotes 0 ents of the naturally occurring pearls. Examples of pearl or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. R" prefer extracts Suitable for use in the agents are the commercial ably denotes an acyl radical and RandR denote hydrogen, products Pearl Protein Extract BGR or Crodarom R. Pearl. and the Sum (m+n+q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and/or 0219. In an exemplary embodiment, the pearl extracts diglycerides based on hexanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethyl described above are contained in the agents in a quantity of hexanoic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, from at least about 0.01 to about 20 wt %, preferably from myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isos about 0.01 to about 10 wt %, and more preferably from about tearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic 0.01 to about 5 wt %, based on the entire agent. acid, linolenic acid, elaeoStearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic 0220 Although each of the aforesaid care-providing sub acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, as well as industrial mix stances already yields a satisfactory result of itself, all tures thereof. Oleic acid monoglycerides are preferably used. embodiments in which the agent contains multiple care-pro 0215. In an exemplary embodiment, the quantity of the viding Substances, including from different groups, are also natural and synthetic cosmetic oily Substances used in the encompassed within the scope of the present invention. agents is from about 0.1 to about 30 wt % based on the entire 0221) The addition of a UV filter allows both the agent agent, preferably about 0.1 to about 20 wt %, and more itself and the treated fibers to be protected from damaging preferably about 0.1 to about 15 wt %. influences of UV radiation. At least one UV filter is therefore 0216. The agent can moreover contain an enzyme as a added by preference to the agent. The suitable UV filters are care-providing Substance. In a preferred embodiment, the not subject to any general restrictions in terms of their struc enzyme is selected from a group made up of proteases, ture and their physical properties. Instead, all UV filters lipases, transglutaminase, oxidases and peroxidases. usable in the cosmetics sector whose absorption maximum 0217 Pearl extracts are also suitable as a care-providing lies in the UVA (315-400 nm) UVB (280-315 nm), or UVC Substance. Mussel pearls are made up Substantially of inor (<280 nm) regions are suitable. UV filters having an absorp ganic and organic calcium salts, trace elements, and proteins. tion maximum in the UVB region, in particular in the region Pearls can easily be obtained from cultivated mussels. Mussel from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are par cultivation can be accomplished in both fresh water and sea ticularly preferred. water; this can have an effect on the constituents of the pearls. 0222. The UV filters preferred according to the present A pearl extract that derives from mussels cultivated in seawa invention can be selected, for example, from substituted ben ter or salt water is preferred according to the present inven Zophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic tion. The pearls are made up largely of aragonite (calcium acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, Salicylic acid esters, benz carbonate), conchiolin, and an albuminoid; the latter constitu imidazoles, and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. ents are proteins. Also contained in pearls are magnesium and 0223 Examples of UV filters suitable for use in the agents Sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds, and phosphates. are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N.N.N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3- 0218. The pearls are powdered for production of the pearl ylidene methyl)aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclo extract. The powdered pearls are then extracted with the usual hexyl salicylate (Homosalate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxyben methods. Water, alcohols, and mixtures thereof can be used as Zophenone (Benzophenone-3; Uvinul (R) M 40, Uvasorb(R) extraction agents for production of the pearl extracts. “Water MET, Neo Heliopan R. BB, Eusolex(R 4360), 2-phenylbenz is to be understood in this context as both demineralized water imidazole-5-Sulfonic acid and its potassium, Sodium, and and seawater. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as triethanolamine salts (phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid; ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyvalent alcohols ParsolR HS: Neo Heliopan R. Hydro), 3,3'-(1,4-phenylene Such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, ethyl dimethylene)-bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-2.2.1]hept ene glycol, propylene glycol, and butylene glycol, both as a 1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1-(4-tert-butylphe sole extraction agent and also mixed with demineralized nyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione (butyl water or seawater, are preferred. Pearl extracts based on methoxydibenzoylmethane: Parsol R1789, Eusolex R, 9020), water/glycerol mixtures have proven to be particularly Suit C-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)toluene-4-Sulfonic acid and its salts, able. Depending on the extraction conditions, the pearl pro ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA: teins (conchiolin and albuminoid) can be present to a very Uvinul R P 25), 4-di-methylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

ester (Octyl Dimethyl PABA: Uvasorb(R DMO, Escalol R. particular at least 1 wt %, in common cosmetic oil compo 507, Eusolex R 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl nents at room temperature. The use of water-insoluble UV Sa-licylate: Escalol.R. 587, Neo Heliopan R OS, Uvinul R. filters are therefore preferred. 018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (Isoamyl 0226. According to a further preferred embodiment of the p-Methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan R E 1000), 4-methoxy present invention, those UV filters that comprise a cationic cinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate: group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group, are uti Parsol R. MCX, EscalolR 557, Neo Heliopan R AV), 2-hy lized. These UV filters exhibit the general structure U-Q. The droxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-Sulfonic acid and its structural part Udenotes a group that absorbs UV radiation. sodium salt (Benzophenone-4, Uvinul R. MS 40; Uvasorb(RS This group can in principle be derived from the aforemen 5), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) D.L-camphor (4-methylben tioned known UV filters usable in the cosmetics sector, in Zylidene camphor; Parsol.R. 5000, Eusolex(R) 6300), 3-ben which one group, generally a hydrogenatom, of the UV filter Zylidene camphor (3-Benzylidene Camphor), 4-isopropyl is replaced by a cationic group Q. in particular by a quaternary benzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'- amino function. oxi)-1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-ylacrylic acid and its ethyl 0227 Compounds from which structural part U can be esters, polymers of N-(2 and 4)-2-oxoborn-3-ylidenem derived include, for example: ethylbenzyl)acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone 0228 substituted benzophenones; (Benzophenone-1; Uvasorb(R) 20 H, Uvinul R. 400), 1,1'- 0229 p-aminobenzoic acid esters; diphenylacrylonitrilic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene: 0230 diphenylacrylic acid esters: Eusolex(R) OCR, Neo Heliopan R. Type 303, Uvinul R N 539 0231 cinnamic acid esters: SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (Menthyl Anthra 0232 salicylic acid esters: nilate; Neo Heliopan R MA), 2.2',4,4-tetrahydroxyben 0233 benzimidazoles; and Zophenone (Benzophenome-2; Uvinul R. D-50), 2,2'-dihy 0234 o-aminobenzoic acid esters. droxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (BenZophenone-6). 0235 Structural parts U that are derived from cinnamic 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodiumsul acid amide or from N,N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide fonate, and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl are preferred. ester. 4-aminobenzoic acid, N.N.N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn 0236 Structural parts U can in principle be selected so that 3-ylidene methyl)aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcy the absorption maximum of the UV filters can lie both in the clohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, UVA (315-400 nm) region and in the UVB (280-315 nm) 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-Sulfonic acid and its potassium, region, or in the UVC (<280 nm) region. UV filters having an Sodium, and triethanolamine salts, 3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedim absorption maximum in the UVB region, in particular in the ethylene)-bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-2.2.1]hept-1-yl region from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1-(4-tert.-butylphenyl)- particularly preferred. Structural part U is furthermore pref 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, C.-(2-oxoborn-3- erably selected, including as a function of structural part Q. in ylidene)toluene-4-Sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated such a way that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4-dimethylaminobenzoic filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particu acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, lar above 20,000. 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycin 0237 Structural part Q preferably contains a quaternary namic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxyben ammonium group as a cationic group. This quaternary ammo Zophenone-5-Sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3-(4-methyl nium group can in principle be connected directly to struc benzylidene)-D.L-camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, tural part U, so that structural part U represents one of the four 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'- substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. Prefer ethylhexyl-1'-oxi)-1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-ylacrylic ably, however, one of the four substituents on the positively acid and its ethyl esters, and polymers of N-(2 and 4)-2- charged nitrogen atom is a group, in particular an alkylene oxoborn-3-ylidenemethylbenzyl)acrylamide are preferred. group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, that functions as a connec Very particularly preferred are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxyben tion between structural part U and the positively charged Zophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-Sulfonic acid and its nitrogen atom. potassium, Sodium, and triethanolamine salts, 1-(4-tert.-bu 0238 Advantageously, the group Q has the general struc tylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, 4-meth ture —(CH), NR'RRX, in which x denotes an integer oxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, and 3-(4-methylben from 1 to 4, R' and R, mutually independently, denote Ca Zylidene) D.L-camphor. alkyl groups, R. denotes a C-22 alkyl group or a benzyl 0224. In a preferred embodiment, the agents comprise group, and X denotes a physiologically acceptable anion. In those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the a preferred embodiment, X denotes the number 3, R' and R' absorption maximum is above 15,000, preferably above each denote a methyl group, and R denotes either a methyl 20,000. group or a Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydro 0225. It has moreover been found that with structurally carbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon similar UV filters, in many cases the water-insoluble com atoms. Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, pound exhibits, in the context herein, the greater effectiveness inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bro as compared with water-soluble compounds of this kind that mide and fluoride, Sulfate ions, and phosphate ions, as well as differ from it by having one or more additionally ionic groups. organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, metho Those UV filters of which no more than 1 wt %, in particular Sulfate, and tosylate. no more than 0.1 wt %, dissolves in water at 20° C. are 0239. Two preferred UV filters having cationic groups are understood to be water-insoluble. These compounds should the compounds cinnamic acid amidopropyltrimethylammo furthermore be soluble at a proportion of at least 0.1 wt %, in nium chloride (Incroquat(R) UV-283) and dodecyldimethy US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011 laminobenzamidopropyldimethylammonium tosylate (ES direct-absorbing dyes that are marketed under the trademark calol R. HP 610), available as commercial products. Arianor R are likewise preferred cationic direct-absorbing 0240. The teaching of the present invention of course also dyes. encompasses the use of a combination of several UV filters. In 0250 In an exemplary embodiment the agents contain the the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least direct-absorbing dyes in a quantity of from about 0.001 to one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter about 20 wt %, based on the entire agent. having a cationic group is preferred. 0251. In addition, the agents can also contain dyes occur 0241. In an exemplary embodiment, the UV filters are ring in nature, for example, those contained in henna red, contained in the agents in quantities of from about 0.01 to henna neutral, henna black, chamomile blossom, sandal about 5 wt % based on the entire agent. Quantities from 0.1 to wood, black tea, buckthorn bark, Salvia, logwood, madder 2.5 wt % are preferred. root, catechu, Spanish cedar, and alkanna root. 0242. In another exemplary embodiment, the agent con 0252. It is not necessary for the direct-absorbing dyes to tains one or more direct-absorbing dyes. This allows the represent homogeneous compounds in each case. The agents keratinic fibers treated upon application of the agent to be not can instead, depending on the production methods for the only temporarily structured, but at the same time also dyed. individual dyes, also contain further components in Subordi This can be desirable in particular when what is desired is nate quantities, provided they do not disadvantageously influ only temporary coloring (for example, with conspicuous ence the styling result or do not have to be excluded for other “fashion' colors), which can be removed from the keratinic (e.g. toxicological) reasons. fibers simply by washing. 0253) In addition to the aforesaid components, the agents 0243 Direct-absorbing dyes are usually nitrophenylene can also contain all active Substances, additives, and adju diamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, or vants that are known for Such preparations. In many cases the indophenols. Preferred direct-absorbing dyes are the com agents contain at least one surfactant, both anionic and Zwit pounds known under the international designations or trade terionic, ampholytic, nonionic, and cationic Surfactants being names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow Suitable in principle. In many cases, however, it has proven 6, HCYellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow advantageous to select the Surfactants from anionic, Zwitteri 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid onic, or nonionic Surfactants. Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC 0254 Further active substances, adjuvants, and additives Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red include, for example: 57:1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, 0255 thickening agents such as agar-agar, guar gum, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Xanthan gum, gum arabic, karayagum, locustbean flour, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. Black 1, and Acid Black 52, as well as 1,4-diamino-2-ni methylcellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxym trobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(3-hydroxy ethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as ethyl)amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(B-hydroxyethyl) amylose, amylopectin, and dextrins, clays such as, for aminophenol, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, example, bentonite, entirely synthetic hydrocolloids 1-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, Such as, for example, poly(vinyl alcohol) and, if appli 1-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5-chloro-2-nitroben cable, crosslinked polyacrylates; Zene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol. 1-(2-ureidoethyl)amino-4-ni 0256 structuring agents such as maleic acid and lactic trobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2-carboxylic acid; acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4- 0257 perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide, and cyclodex naphthoduinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6- trins; chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, and 0258 solvents and solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopro 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene. panol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and 0244. It is preferred to use cationic direct-absorbing dyes. diethylene glycol; Particularly preferred in this context are: 0259 quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylami 0245 a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as, for doethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate; example, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2. 0260 defoamers such as silicones: and Basic Violet 14: 0261) dyes for coloring the agent; 0246 b) aromatic systems that are substituted with a 0262 anti-dandruffactive substances, such aspiroctone quaternary nitrogen group. Such as, for example, Basic olamine, Zinc olamine, and climbazol; Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 0263 substances for adjusting the pH, such as, for 16, and Basic Brown 17; and example, usual acids, in particular edible acids and 0247 c) direct-absorbing dyes that contain a hetero bases; cycle which comprises at least one quaternary nitrogen 0264 cholesterol: atom, as recited, for example, in Claims 6 to 11 in 0265 consistency agents such as Sugar esters, polyol EP-A2-998.908, to which reference is explicitly made at esters, or polyol alkyl ethers; this juncture. 0266 fats and waxes, such as spermaceti, beeswax, 0248 Preferred cationic direct-absorbing dyes of group montan wax, and paraffins; (c) include, in particular, the compounds of FIGS. 20-28. 0267 fatty acid alkanolamides: 0249. The compounds of the formulas of FIGS. 20, 22, and 0268 complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, B-ala 24, which are also known under the designations Basic Yel nine diacetic acid, and phosphonic acids; low 87, Basic Orange 31, and Basic Red 51, are preferred 0269 Swelling and penetrating Substances, such as cationic direct-absorbing dyes of group (c). The cationic glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011 18

hydrogencarbonates, guanidines, ureas, and primary, sprays generally contain larger quantities of propellant. In secondary, and tertiary phosphates; this case the propellant is preferably used in a quantity from 0270 opacifiers such as latex, styrene/PVP copoly 30 to 98 wt % based on the entire product. Quantities from 40 mers, and styrenefacrylamide copolymers; to 95 wt %, in particular from 50 to 95 wt %, are particularly 0271 luster agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and preferred. distearate, as well as PEG-3 distearate; 0284. The aerosol products can be manufactured in usual (0272 preservatives: fashion. As a rule, all the constituents of the respective agent, 0273 stabilizing agents for hydrogen peroxide and with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a other oxidizing agents; suitable pressure-tight container. The latter is then sealed with 0274 propellants such as propane/butane mixtures, a valve. Lastly, the desired quantity of propellant is intro NO, dimethyl ether, CO, and air; and duced using conventional techniques. 0275 antioxidants. 0285 Particularly preferably, the agents are packaged as 0276. With respect to further optional components as well an aerosol hair spray. A second Subject of the invention is as the quantities of those components used, reference is therefore aerosol hairsprays containing the agent and at least explicitly made to the relevant manuals known to those one propellant. Preferred agents and propellants of the aero skilled in the art. Sol hair spray, as well as the respective quantities of the 0277 Formulation of the agents according to the present propellant, correspond to what has already been stated above. invention can be accomplished in all forms that are usual for 0286 A third subject of the invention is the use of the styling agents, for example in the form of solutions that can be agents according to the present invention for the temporary applied onto the hair as a hair lotion or a pump or aerosol deformation of keratinic fibers. spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels, or also 0287. The various exemplary embodiments of the agents, Surfactant-containing foaming Solutions, or other prepara and products, in particular aerosol hair sprays, that contain tions that are suitable for use on the hair. said agents, are notable in particular for the fact that they 0278 Hair creams and hair gels generally contain struc impart a very good hairstyle hold to treated hair. They thus turing agents and/or thickening polymers which serve to exhibit a high degree of hold. impart the desired consistency to the products. Structuring 0288 The deformation hold, also referred to as hairstyle agents and/or thickening polymers are used typically at a hold, as well as the flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity, are quantity from 0.1 to 10 wt %, based on the entire product. determined for purposes herein using the omega loop method. Quantities from 0.5 to 5 wt %, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt %, are For this, a dry hair strand (European Natural hair of the preferred. Kerling company, bonded dense tress, bonded at one end, 0279. In various exemplary embodiments, the agents are total length 150 mm, free length 130 mm, width 10 mm. packaged as a pump spray, aerosol spray, pump hair foam, or weight 0.9+0.1 g) was immersed for 30 seconds, as far as the aerosol hair foam. upper edge of the adhesive bond, into the polymer Solution to 0280 “Hair foams' are understood in this context as com be investigated. The excess solution was then wiped off positions that form a foam upon removal from a Suitable between the thumb and forefinger so that 0.5+0.02 g of solu container. It may be necessary to add to the agents ingredients tion remained on the hair. The hair strand, saturated with the that promote foam formation or that stabilize a foam once it Solution to be investigated, was wound around a Teflon cyl has formed. Surfactants and/or emulsifiers are especially Suit inder 36 mm in diameter, and the projecting ends were able for this. secured with a clip. The prepared strands were then dried and 0281. If the products according to the present invention conditioned in an environmental chamber overnight at 25°C. involve an aerosol product, the latter may contain a propel and 50% relative humidity, or at 25° C. and 75% relative lant. Propellants suitable for use include, for example, N.O. humidity. dimethyl ether, CO, air, and alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon 0289. The conditioned strand was carefully removed from atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane, and the Teflon cylinder. The resulting omega loop—a ring-shaped isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Dimethyl ether, propane, structure of hair stabilized in shape by the polymer film that n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures thereofare preferred. has formed was clamped into the gripperS mounted on the 0282. According to a preferred embodiment, the aforesaid load cell and lowered to just above the baseplate of an AME alkanes, mixtures of the aforesaid alkanes, or mixtures of the TEKLF Plus universal testing instrument of AMETEK Pre aforesaid alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as the only cision Instruments Europe GmbH, Lloyd product group. The propellant. The invention also, however, expressly encom entire measurement was performed in an environmental passes the co-utilization of propellants of the fluorochloro chamber under constant climatic conditions, at 25° C. and hydrocarbon type, but in particular the fluorohydrocarbon 50% relative humidity or at 25°C. and 75% relative humidity. type. 0290. In order to create standardized initial conditions, the 0283 For a given spray apparatus, the sizes of the aerosol measurement began with application of a preload of 0.07 Nat droplets or foam bubbles, and the respective size distribution, a rate of 30 mm min'. The omega loop was then compressed can be adjusted by way of the quantitative ratio of propellant 8 mm at a rate of 60 mm min', the force necessary therefor to the other constituents of the preparations. The quantity of being measured. Once the characteristic force F at the maxi propellant used varies as a function of the specific composi mum deformation of 8 mm had been recorded, the strand was tion of the agent, the packaging used, and the desired type of unloaded at 60 mm min' until it had risen 10 mm from the product (e.g. hair spray or hair foam). When conventional baseplate. The next cycle began from there, by once again spray apparatuses are used, aerosol foam products contain the applying the 0.07 N preload and then compressing the Strand propellant preferably in quantities from 1 to 35 wt %, based 8 mm; the applicable rates were the same as described above. on the entire product. Quantities from 2 to 30 wt %, in par Measurement of one omega loop encompassed a total of 10 ticular from 3 to 15 wt %, are particularly preferred. Aerosol cycles. US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011

0291 Four characteristic parameters for describing the 0299 For the production of aerosol spray products, the mechanical properties offilm-forming polymers can be deter agents were respectively introduced into a Suitable pressure mined using this measurement method. The hold, flexibility, tight container that was then sealed with a valve. The agents plasticity, and elasticity can be calculated from the measured then had dimethyl ether added to them. The weight ratio of forces using the following formulas: agent to dimethyl ether was 46:54 in each case. Hold=FN 2. Verification of Effect 0292 (F. corresponds to maximum measurement force) 0300. Using the omega loop method (50% and 75% rela tive humidity), the hold, flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity achievable upon application of a variety of polymers onto Flexibility=... F10f human hair were measured. The first investigations were made of polymer solutions P1 and P2, which respectively contained 5 wt % of the film-forming and/or setting polymers 0293 (indicates the ratio of maximum forces between the Amphomer and Allianz LT-120: tenth and the first cycle)

2. H - Ho Raw materials P1 P2 Plasticity = H Amphomer (R)' S.OO Allianz LT-120? 10.60 AMP-Ultra PC 1000 O.8 O.8 0294 (where H=9 mm and Ho-9 mm--permanent Water, deionized to make 100 40 plastic deformation of the strand) Ethanol 96%, denatured to make 100 0301 The results obtained are reproduced in the table Fo(2 mm) - Fo(1.5 mm) below: Elasticity=rity T- F2n 0.5is n = E10r 0.5 Hold (N) Fleibility Elasticity Plasticity 0295 (to calculate the elasticity, the forces for a 1.5 mm P1 (50% RH) 1.07 0.72 O.39 O.10 and 2 mm deformation are acquired respectively from P2 (50% RH) 1.97 O.76 O.48 O.O6 the first and the tenth cycle, and are correlated). P1 (75% RH) O.90 0.72 O.35 O.08 P2 (75% RH) 1.62 O.84 O.S4 O.10 Examples 0296. The Examples below are intended to explain the 0302) The results show that as compared with the subject matter of the present invention without limiting it in Amphomer film-forming and/or setting polymer often used in conventional hair sprays, Allianz LT-120 exhibits a definitely any way. higher degree of hold both in an experiment conducted at 50% 0297. The quantitative indications below are understood, relative humidity and in an experiment conducted at 75% unless otherwise noted, as percentages by weight. relative humidity, the flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity being comparable or in fact better. 1. Aerosol Sprays 0303 If however, Amphomer is replaced by Allianz 0298. The agent E1 according to the present invention, as LT-120 in a commercially usual aerosol hairspray, contrary to well as a comparison formulation V1, were produced in expectation there is no improvement in the degree of hold. accordance with the table below. Surprisingly, however, a significant improvement in degree of hold can be achieved when Allianz LT-120 is used in combi nation with Amphomer. 0304. This is confirmed by investigating the agent E1 Raw materials V1 E1 according to the present invention and the comparative for Amphomer (R)' 96.O 8.70 mulation V1 using the omega loop method (50% relative Allianz LT-120? 1.85 humidity, 25°C.). Water, deionized 12.8O 11.70 AMP-Ultra PC 1000 1.70 1.70 0305 The results obtained are reproduced in the table Isopropyl myristate O.11 O.11 below: Benzophenone-4 O.22 O.22 Perfume O.11 O.11 Ethanol 96%, denatured to make 100 to make 100 Hold (N) Fleibility Elasticity Plasticity N-octyl acrylamide acrylic acid/tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (INCI name: Octylacrylamide Acrylates. Butyl-aminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer) (National Starch) V1 (50% RH) 2.58 O.86 O.S6 O.12 *Copolymer of succinic acid C1 to C2 alkyl esters, hydroxyalkyl acrylate, and at least one E1 (50% RH) 2.85 O.84 O.S3 O.12 monomer from among acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and simple esters thereof (approx. 46 to 47.5% solids in water; INCI name:Acrylates C1-2 Succinates Hydroxyacrylates Copoly mer) (ISP) 2-Amino-2-methylpropanol (INCI name: Aminomethyl Propanol) (Dow Chemical) 0306 While at least one exemplary embodiment has been 42 -Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid presented in the foregoing detailed description of the inven tion, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011 20 exist. It should also be appreciated that the exemplary at least one monomer A3 selected from the group consist embodiment or exemplary embodiments are only examples, ing of methyl Succinate and ethyl Succinate. and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or con 7. The agent according to claim 1, wherein the at least one figuration of the invention in any way. Rather, the foregoing copolymer A is present in the agent in an amount of from detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with about 0.01 to about 20 wt %, based on the entire hair setting a convenient road map for implementing an exemplary agent. embodiment of the invention, it being understood that various 8. The agent according to claim 7, wherein the at least one changes may be made in the function and arrangement of copolymer A is present in the agent in an amount of from elements described in an exemplary embodiment without about 0.05 to about 10 wt %, based on the entire hair setting departing from the scope of the invention as set forth in the agent. appended claims and their legal equivalents. 9. The agent according to claim 8, wherein the at least one 1. An agent for the temporary deformation of keratinic copolymer A is present in the agent in an amount of from fibers comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. Oat about 0.1 to about 5 wt %, based on the entire hair setting least one copolymer A formed from: agent. at least one monomer A1 selected from the group consist 10. The agent according to claim 1, wherein the at least one ing of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid alkyl film-forming and setting amphoteric polymer B is selected esters, and methacrylic acid alkyl esters; from the group consisting of methacryloylbetaine/alkyl at least one monomer A2 selected from the group consist methacrylate copolymers, copolymers of monomers having ing of acrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters and methacrylic carboxy and/or Sulfone groups, in particular acrylic acid, acid hydroxyalkyl esters; and methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, and monomers having amino at least one monomer A3 selected from the group consist groups, in particular monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylates, dialky ing of Succinic acid monoalkyl esters and Succinic acid laminoalkyl acrylates, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, dialkyl esters; and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, monoalkylaminoalkyl a) at least one film-forming and setting amphoteric poly acrylamides, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamides, monoalkylami mer B. noalkyl methacrylamides, dialkylaminoalkyl methacryla 2. The agent according to claim 1, wherein the at least one mides, and copolymers of N-octyl acrylamide, methyl meth monomer A1 is selected from the group consisting of acrylic acrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, N-tert.- acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid methyl ester, methacrylic butylaminoethyl methacrylate, and acrylic acid, and acid methyl ester, acrylic acid ethyl ester, methacrylic acid combinations thereof. ethyl ester, acrylic acid propyl ester, methacrylic acid propyl 11. The agent according to claim 1, wherein the at least one ester, acrylic acid isopropyl ester, and methacrylic acid iso film-forming and setting amphoteric polymer B comprises an propyl ester, and combinations thereof. N-octyl acrylamide/acrylic acid/tert-butylaminoethyl meth 3. The agent according to claim 1, wherein the at least one acrylate copolymer. monomer A2 is selected from the group consisting of 12. The agent according to claim 1, wherein the at least one hydroxymethyl acrylate, hydroxymethyl methacrylate, film-forming and setting amphoteric polymer B is present in (2-hydroxyethyl)acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl)methacrylate, the agent in a quantity of from about 0.01 to about 20 wt %, (2-hydroxypropyl)acrylate, (2-hydroxypropyl)methacrylate, based on the entire hair setting agent. (3-hydroxypropyl)acrylate, (3-hydroxypropyl)methacrylate, 13. The agent according to claim 12, wherein the at least and combinations thereof. one film-forming and setting amphoteric polymer B is present 4. The agent according to claim 1, wherein the at least one in the agent in a quantity of from about 0.1 to about 15 wt %, monomer A3 is selected from the group consisting of methyl hydrogensuccinate, methyl Succinate, ethyl hydrogensucci based on the entire hair setting agent. nate, ethyl Succinate, propyl hydrogensuccinate, propyl Suc 14. The agent according to claim 13, wherein the at least cinate, isopropyl hydrogensuccinate, and isopropyl Succi one film-forming and setting amphoteric polymer B is present nate, and combinations thereof. in the agent in a quantity of from about 1.0 to about 10 wt %, 5. The agent according to claim 4, wherein the at least one based on the entire hair setting agent. monomer A3 is selected from methyl succinate and ethyl 15. The agent according to claim 1, wherein the at least one Succinate. copolymer A and the film-forming and setting amphoteric 6. The agent according to claim 1, wherein the at least one polymer B are present at a weight ratio of from about 1:20 to copolymer A is formed from: about 1:1. at least one monomer A1 selected from the group consist 16. The agent according to claim 15, wherein the at least ing of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid methyl one copolymer A and the film-forming and setting amphot ester, methacrylic acid methyl ester, acrylic acid ethyl eric polymer B are present at a weight ratio from about 1:20 ester, methacrylic acid ethyl ester, acrylic acid propyl to about 1:2. ester, methacrylic acid propyl ester, acrylic acid isopro 17. The agent according to claim 16, wherein the at least pyl ester, and methacrylic acid isopropyl ester and com one copolymer A and the at least one film-forming and setting binations thereof, amphoteric polymer B are present at a weight ratio of from at least one monomer A2 selected from the group consist about 1:20 to about 1:5. ing of hydroxymethyl acrylate, hydroxymethyl meth 18. The agent according to claim 1, further comprising at acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl)acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) least one silicone oil at least one silicone gum, or a combina methacrylate, (2-hydroxypropyl)acrylate, tion thereof. (2-hydroxypropyl)methacrylate, (3-hydroxypropyl) 19. The agent according to claim 12, wherein the at least acrylate, (3-hydroxypropyl)methacrylate, and combina one silicone oil, the at least one silicone gum, or the combi tions thereof nation thereof is selected from the group consisting of cyclic US 2011/0064678 A1 Mar. 17, 2011 and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, alkoxylated and/or aminated 21. An aerosol hair spray comprising: derivatives thereof, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes, and an agent for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers polyphenylalkylsiloxanes. comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier: 20. A method for using an agent for the temporary defor at least one copolymer A formed from: mation of hair, the method comprising the step of applying the agent to hair, wherein the agent comprises, in a cosmetically at least one monomer A1 selected from the group consist acceptable carrier: ing of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid alkyl at least one copolymer A formed from: esters, and methacrylic acid alkyl esters; at least one monomer A1 selected from the group consist at least one monomer A2 selected from the group consist ing of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid alkyl ing of acrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters and methacrylic esters, and methacrylic acid alkyl esters; acid hydroxyalkyl esters; and at least one monomer A2 selected from the group consist at least one monomer A3 selected from the group consist ing of acrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters and methacrylic ing of Succinic acid monoalkyl esters and Succinic acid acid hydroxyalkyl esters; and dialkyl esters; and at least one monomer A3 selected from the group consist at least one film-forming and setting amphoteric polymer ing of Succinic acid monoalkyl esters and Succinic acid B; and dialkyl esters; and at least one propellant. at least one film-forming and setting amphoteric polymer B. c c c c c