Poland in Autumn
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Poland in Autumn Naturetrek Tour Report 5 – 13 September 2015 Penduline Tit by Peter Tonkin Wild Boar by Des Kington Marsh Gentian by Rob Murray White-backed Woodpecker by Sally Voges Report compiled by Rob Murray Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Poland in Autumn Tour Report Tour Participants: Rob Murray (Naturetrek) & Andrezj Petryna (Local Guide) with 16 Naturetrek clients Summary The aim of this particular Naturetrek tour to Poland was to explore three diverse habitats in three culturally different regions of this wildlife-rich country. Dense and extensive primeval forests with towering trees cover much of the Białowieża area. Our patience and persistence teased out the specialities so successfully that we enjoyed captivating views of seven species of woodpecker, a Pygmy Owl, and the enigmatic European Bison. The extensive wetlands and meadows of the Briebrza National Park attracted flocks of trumpeting Common Cranes and eagles began to feature more prominently here with Lesser Spotted and White-tailed gracing the skies. It was a thrill to find lumbering, bizarrely shaped Elks visible one minute then melting into the reeds the next. Driving to the north coast and the sandy Baltic shores took us over glacial outwash plains carpeted with drumlins, eskers and glacial outwash deposits. Shorebirds and wildfowl now entered our daily log as we trudged along the tide-line with one eye on the lookout for migrating birds and the other focussed on the strand hoping to stumble upon a sizeable chunk of amber valuable enough to fund retirement. An after-dark foray along the streets and woodland fringes rewarded us with unbelievably close encounters with Wild Boars and Red Foxes. Although we were constantly mindful of our target birds, we also enjoyed discovering a full range of wildlife from beautiful butterflies, exquisite flowers, ubiquitous frogs and an impressive list of mammals, not to mention the gigantic bracket fungi and dancing dragonflies. We were served prodigious feasts of typical Polish cuisine and had no choice but to abandon dietary caution. Cultural aspects were not ignored and a brief visit to the delightful city of Gdańsk was a pleasant way to end our Polish experience and to stimulate the desire to return. Day 1 Saturday 5th September Finding each other at Heathrow was a surprisingly easy task thanks to the distinctive Naturetrek luggage labels. Group members were able to chat before boarding our flight to Warsaw. Andrezj met us at the airport and soon we were off to explore eastern Poland. We stopped for a set lunch at a roadside hotel then continued along back roads to a reserve at Mołożew on the banks of the River Bug. There were fewer birds than expected because there has been no rain for six weeks. The river was low and the marshes were dry. A Green Sandpiper and a flock of Blue-headed Wagtails were the highlights. However, it was a most welcome break from the long journey. We arrived at the Unikat Hotel in time for dinner at 7pm. Day 2 Sunday 6th September The day began with a magnificent White-backed Woodpecker feeding at the base of the apple tree by the hotel's garden. It was joined by a Great Spotted Woodpecker enabling a clear comparison to be made between the two species. Two Black Redstarts were also in the yard and a few Tree Sparrows too. This morning we walked along a forest trail loop at Wysokie Bagno. It is only 3.6 kilometres but packed with interest. The highlight was indisputably the discovery of two adults and one juvenile Black Woodpecker preening and loitering in a decaying tree. We heard the evocative calls and exceedingly loud drumming of the male. It is both a visual and auditory delight to spend time in the territory of these impressive birds which are just as active in autumn as they are in spring. © Naturetrek October 15 1 Poland in Autumn Tour Report A Hawfinch sat obligingly in the open for a considerable period of time enabling all of us to view it through a telescope before it flew off. Red Squirrels were also a feature of our walks today as they fattened up on the autumn nut and seed crops. There was much evidence of the presence of larger but more secretive animals. We identified tracks of Wild Boars, Red Deer and Roe Deer. There were scats of Hedgehog and Pine Marten but absolutely no signs of the beasts themselves. A huge pile of pine needle was the nest of a Wood Ant colony. It was protected by a fence to keep Wild Boars at their distance. The next venue for our scrutiny was The Palace Park on the edge of the village. It is a picturesque location steeped in history and very attractive to wildlife. Today it was rather quiet and yielded only a Kingfisher or two. We returned to the hotel for lunch to fortify us for the walk to the bridges at Kosy Most. Unfortunately, some of the paths were closed due to it being the mating season for rumbustious Bison. However, we had an enjoyable stroll to a stream frequented by Beavers. Evidence of their lumber-jacking skills was clear to see. Woodpeckers were tantalisingly elusive. We heard Lesser Spotted and Middle Spotted but saw neither. A Hazel Hen flew across the track and up into a tree as we were driving out, but it was only seen by a lucky few. It was now time to relocate to our first Pygmy Owl site so that we were in position as dusk approached. Despite a sustained and patient effort, we elicited no response from the owl so we called it a day and returned to the hotel for a late dinner. We will try again at a different location tomorrow night. Day 3 Monday 7th September There had been overnight rain but although it was cloudy around dawn, the rain held off. As we passed a garden full of seeding sunflowers, we were enthralled by the aggregation of passerines feeding on the ripe seeds. We walked around the fields in search of Bison but found none initially. We enjoyed superb views of a range of raptors including an imposing Lesser Spotted Eagle which perched on a bushy tree. A Montagu's Harrier was an unexpected treat, as were two Great Grey Shrikes. It was now time for breakfast, and then we departed for the Strict Reserve where we were to be escorted by Arek through a truly spectacular ancient woodland. However, progress was interrupted as a bull Bison was spotted standing in a meadow by the forest. He was of impressive proportions! We assembled before the imposing wooden gates that delineated the reserve's boundary and appeared like the entrance to Jurassic Park. Jays scalded us with witch-like cackles imploring us not to enter this forbidden world of wolves and the mighty bison. It was like entering the dank, dark domain of ‘The Wild Wood’ that Ratty implored Mole and Badger not to enter. Trees of familiar species such as Lime, Alder, Oak, Hornbeam and Maple have stretched up to immense heights, reaching lofty positions unrealised in Britain. The forest is not managed, but left to its own devices and consequently its biodiversity is astounding. We were grovelling around decaying tree trunks in search of exotic fungi, then straining our necks skywards to appreciate various species of woodpeckers. Black Woodpeckers and a very obliging White-backed Woodpecker allowed prolonged views. It proved to be a most successful visit for mammals. Two Red Deer stared at us from a safe distance. A Red Fox loitered on the path and a Pine Marten gave brief views, but intense satisfaction to the fortunate few who saw it. Those of us engaged in the distracting pursuit of sniffing the leaves of Water Mint missed it! The afternoon was spent in the vicinity of Siemianówka Lake but most birds were too distant to identify accurately. Great White Egrets were certainly common with a count in excess of 50 individuals. One more scheduled stop in the forest met with immediate success. A very obliging Three-toed Woodpecker hammered at 2 © Naturetrek Poland in Autumn Tour Report a dead spruce tree for long enough to display all of its features (except for the toes!) Just ten of the group opted for another shot at unearthing a Pygmy Owl this evening. We descended upon an unsuspecting owl at Wysokie Bagno and enjoyed a wonderful experience in its company as it squatted on a dead branch in gloomy light but in full view. Day 4 Tuesday 8th September The early risers had dwindled to three this morning, but the pre-breakfast walk into The Palace Park yielded some very good birds. A White-backed Woodpecker was hacking at an exposed dead tree and a Middle Spotted Woodpecker allowed a very close approach. In both cases the diagnostic features were fully appreciated. A Crested Tit began calling and was soon located in a pine tree. There was an impressive passage of Swallows. After breakfast, we packed our bags and began the long drive to our next base at Kiermusy. It was raining quite heavily when we arrived at Dojlidy Fishponds. The downpours had encouraged many Marsh Frogs and Roman Snails to break from cover. There were over 50 Great White Egrets here. A Goshawk was perched in a nearby tree and took flight as we approached. Two Hobbies darted across the sky as scores of Swallows skimmed the water surface in an attempt to continue feeding despite the poor weather.