Food & Wine #Inlombardia
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
Food & Wine #inLombardia Magazine Explore the territory through its extraordinary flavours and come face to face with the local identity. Uncover recipes with a story and the starred chefs that continue to innovate, reinterpret and reinvent them. Visit the restaurants and cellars hiding some of the incredible local gastronomy and experience the wonder of hundreds of events taking place across the region. Discover Lombardy and its delectable flavours Cover_ Cutting board created for Food & Wine #inLombardia Bergamo Milan 5 motivi per... Time to discover… From the skyscrapers in the heart of the city to the fields of crops around the region. Milan is a city of a thousand cultures and its surrounding area a land of a thousand flavours 3 Milan Milan is a city capable of forging new traditions from every outside influence. Its countryside is full of surprises, with the paddy fields giving way to stunning abbeys and even the ancient rows of vines Photo Adjacent_ Restaurant Galleria Vittorio Emanuele 2, Milan Previous page_ Risotto alla milanese on the Naviglio Grande A great city. When you think of Milan, you think Kitchen garden. Milan is a city of palazzos and taken from Milan to Austria, where it became the are anything but stuck in the past. The city itself is of the Duomo and its golden Virgin Mary, of the piazzas, but if you head south along the Naviglio immortal wiener schnitzel. constantly evolving and so it is no wonder that many trams snaking around the city, of the silhouette Grande, the urban sprawl gives way to the fields of of its distinctive dishes were actually born in other of Sforza Castle seen from Piazza Cordusio, of the Parco del Ticino, which has for many centuries Sweet traditions. Milan’s most well-known regions of Italy, nor that among its most popular the skyscrapers in Porta Nuova, of the unrivalled produced the crops that have nourished the city. sweet treat is panettone. According to traditions, restaurants are those serving Japanese, Chinese collections of timeless art, of the bourgeois charm of Like Milan’s dialect and personality, the city’s cuisine panettone was the masterstroke of Toni, a scullery and even Eritrean food… its many tiny museums. You might not think of wild has spent hundreds of years soaking up outside boy in the kitchens for Ludovico Sforza. Toni, having boar, but it’s not unheard of for the beasts to enter influences and using foreign occupations to enrich burnt the cake he had prepared for an important Aperitivo town. Though it was created in Novara, the city to feast on grapes destined to produce the local food. Milan’s bond with Austria is there occasion, had the idea of taking some bread, Milan is the spiritual home of Campari, that bitter San Colombano DOC, a sparkling red wine which for all to see in the city’s most quintessential dish: mixing it with everything sweet left in the kitchen liqueur that forms the base of so many cocktails. makes a terrific bedfellow for cured meats, frittatas, cotoletta alla Milanese. Legend would have it that and forming it into a dome shape, making Pan Take the Negroni Sbagliato, for example, which was risotto, cassoeula or tripe, cooked in the traditional the dish was brought to Milan by Colonel Radetzky, d’Toni – panettone – the precursor to the Milanese created at Bar Basso in 1968 when barman Mirko Milanese style with tomato passata. though it is more probable that it was actually Christmas treat. Yet Milan’s culinary traditions Stocchetto replaced the gin with bubbles. 5 More info on page •84 Photo Previuos Page Left_ Croissant Left_Negroni Sbagliato at Bar Gattullo, Milan Basso, Milan Previous Page Right_Cascina Right_ Torre Velasca from From farmhouse to farmhouse Cuccagna, Milan Duomo of Milan Tasty days out Km0 vegetables, ancient vineyards, fresh milk, cured meats made by the producer that once served the royal family: introducing Milan, Italy’s second-largest agricultural city 9:00 13:00 15:00 17:00 18:00 21.00 Breakfast at Gattullo’s Lunch in the farmhouse Road through wine country Snack at Salumeria Panigada Aperitivo at Poderi San Pietro Trattoria dinner Imagine yourself enjoying The interiors of the farmhouse Head southwest from the city Visit Borgo Insigne in San Enoteca Back in Milan, in the Porta breakfast pastries at Gattullo are truly stunning, all rural 17th- towards Lodi along Via San Colombano and stop at the A quick, ten-minute walk away is Ticinese area. San Colombano and admiring the photographs century architecture and rows Dionigi, which leads from Milan oldest cured meat producer in the Poderi San Pietro Enoteca. wine reached the city in the 17th of great Milanese singers and of porticoes and loggias, with to the San Colombano hill, via the country: royal salami supplier This area has been populated by century and quickly took off cabaret stars like Enzo Jannacci the green internal courtyard and Chiaravalle. You will find yourself Stefano Panigada. The walls vineyards since their introduction among wayfarers in boeuc wine and Cochi e Renato. You’ve read the wooden attic completing the in the heart of the Lombard are festooned with an almost at the end of the 14th century, bars. Enjoy dinner at the Trattoria that Milan is Italy’s second city space. The ancient walls are now countryside, where you can visit hypnotic arrangement of local and though they were nearly la Madonnina, where you can for agriculture, but you can hardly home to the Un posto a Milano one of Milan’s many ancient specialities like cresponi, filzette, wiped out during the Second try risotto mantecato, Milanese believe it. And then, in the 19th- trattoria, where you can choose farmhouses and buy sourdough cacciatori, salamelle, aglioli, World War, many are still around breaded veal cutlets and cheese century part of the city, not far from a wide menu which varies bread, honey from hives in the salami, cotechini and salsicce. to this day. with walnuts and honey. from Porta Romana, you happen according to daily deliveries from Parco Sud and raw milk, fresh upon Cascina Cuccagna: a real local farmsteads and producers. from the cow. country farmhouse slap bang in It’s a slice of country beauty in the middle of Milan. the city. 147 Risotto alla milanese with Gold and saffron ossobuco by Carlo Cracco Insider tip Ingredients for four people: For the risotto: 500g Arborio rice The talented Carlo Cracco is one of Italy’s most 200g butter 30g beef bone marrow famous chefs thanks to his television shows. 1 small onion From 2018 he opened his new restaurant Saffron strands in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele nicknamed 1 glass of white wine 1l beef stock “il salotto di Milano”. 160 g Grana Padano DOP For the ossobuco: 4 ossobuco [cross-cut veal shanks] Onion, carrot, celery 130g butter Lemon zest Garlic clove Marjoram 1 glass of white wine Flour Method For the risotto: chop the onion and gently sauté along with the bone marrow and around 100g of butter. When the onion starts to colour, add the rice and toast in You’re an adopted son of Milan, a city which has areas in Italy, with plenty of biodiversity and for meat. I often go out for a traditional Sunday Photo the pan before deglazing with the white wine. When the wine has completely given you so much. a unique ecosystem. Finally, Milan has done lunch – something simple and very local. If the Above_The chef evaporated, add the saffron, which should Milan welcomed me when I was just 20 years old. well to build up a reputation and win respect weather is nice, I’ll go by bike and always stop off have been left to infuse in some of the hot I’d just finished culinary school and my dream abroad. Few other Italian cities are as well on the way back to visit the stunning Abbazia di Carlo Cracco in the kitchen of his stock. Add the stock, one ladleful at a time, was to work with Gualtiero Marchesi, who had a known for their cooking as Milan is. Just think of Chiaravalle. restaurant and keep stirring until rice is cooked. Add restaurant in Via Bonvesin Della Riva at the time. cotoletta and risotto alla milanese. the grated Grana Padano cheese and the After that, I travelled a lot in Italy and abroad, but rest of the butter to emulsify the risotto. my aim was always to come back and put down Which traditional dish do you love cooking? For the ossobuco: dust the ossobuco with roots here. Milan is a very welcoming city – it helps Risotto alla milanese with saffron and veal flour and brown in a pan for five minutes you to grow and gives the opportunities to put bone marrow. It’s always on the menu at along with 80g of butter and some chopped onion, carrot and celery. Add the your plans into practice like nowhere else. the restaurant and I often cook it at home white wine and leave to evaporate, then too, because it’s my kids’ favourite. cover the meat with the stock and cook What are the strengths of Milanese cooking? on a medium heat in a casserole dish with First and foremost it’s the way it has embraced What kind of places do you like to visit in you the lid for an hour and a half. When almost outside influences. Over the years, Milan has free time in Milan? cooked, add the chopped garlic, lemon been able to draw on the best of everything it has I do the shopping for the family on Saturday zest and marjoram.