OLYMPIC-BOUND HORSES: FIRST, SHOW ME YOUR PASSPORT

January–February 2008

Russia Rising

AMBASSADOR GEORGIY MAMEDOV SAYS WILL BE RICH AND RESPONSIBLE, DEMOCRATIC AND FREE. JUST BE PATIENT FOR A FEW YEARS. PLUS: A FEW SECRETS FROM THE SOVIET ERA.

CHRIS WESTDAL, 'S FORMER MAN IN , SAYS IT'S TIME TO CUT RUSSIA SOME SLACK. ONE RESERVATION: "THE CONCENTRATION OF POWER IN ONE MAN."

Wildlife safari adventures in Kenya's Masai Mara Tour the Ottawa home of Turkey's top diplomat Wine tips: How to buy the best at the LCBO

ESTABLISHED 1989 CDN $5.95 PM 40957514

OLYMPIC-BOUND HORSES: FIRST, SHOW ME YOUR PASSPORT

January–February 2008

Russia Rising

AMBASSADOR GEORGIY MAMEDOV SAYS RUSSIA WILL BE RICH AND RESPONSIBLE, DEMOCRATIC AND FREE. JUST BE PATIENT FOR A FEW YEARS. PLUS: A FEW SECRETS FROM THE SOVIET ERA.

CHRIS WESTDAL, CANADA'S FORMER MAN IN MOSCOW, SAYS IT'S TIME TO CUT RUSSIA SOME SLACK. ONE RESERVATION: "THE CONCENTRATION OF POWER IN ONE MAN."

Wildlife safari adventures in Kenya's Masai Mara Tour the Ottawa home of Turkey's top diplomat Wine tips: How to buy the best at the LCBO

ESTABLISHED 1989 CDN $5.95 The World in Canada PM 40957514

Volume 18, Number 6 PUBLISHER Neil Reynolds ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Table of Donna Jacobs EDITOR Jennifer Campbell CONTENTS ART DIRECTOR Paul Cavanaugh COPY EDITOR Roger Bird CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Daniel Drolet George Abraham CULTURE EDITOR Margo Roston DIPLOMATICA| CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Stephen Beckta Verbatim: Hugo Chavez’s utterings ...... 3 Laura Neilson Bonikowsky Good Deeds: The EU reaches out to Canada ...... 5 Margaret Dickenson Diplomatic Agenda: Slovenia’s EU presidency plans ...... 6 Charles Enman George Fetherling Questions Asked: Egypt’s ambassador on his Dennis Ignatius region and his retirement ...... 8 Tomaz Kunstelj Chris Westdal CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS DISPATCHES| Ulle Baum Brigitte Bouvier Russia Rising Larry Dickenson Bob Diotte Russian Ambassador Georgiy Mamedov defends his turf ...... 10 Kier Gilmour Canada’s former man in Moscow is bullish on Russia ...... 16 Frank Scheme Six agreements signed by the Russian PM ...... 18 Danilo Velasquez Dyanne Wilson BUSINESS MANAGEMENT The Olympics: Horse versus human passports ...... 19 Jessie Reynolds WEBMASTER China: A biography of China master Carl Crow ...... 21 Leslee McCabe PUBLISHER EMERITUS Lezlee Cribb DELIGHTS| SUBSCRIPTIONS Books: A parade of political biographies ...... 24 Diplomat and International Canada is published six Homes: Treasures in a Turkish home ...... 26 times a year. Subscription rates: individual, one year $35; two years, $65. For Canadian orders, add Entertaining: The all-important side dish ...... 28 five per cent GST. U.S. orders, please add $20 for Canadiana: The first black Victoria Cross recipient ...... 30 postage for one year, $40 for postage for two years. Envoy’s Album ...... 32 SUBMISSIONS Wine: How to navigate the LCBO ...... 34 Diplomat & International Canada welcomes submissions and letters. Contact Jennifer Campbell, editor, at [email protected] DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS ...... 35 or (613) 231-8476. DIPLOMAT & INTERNATIONAL CANADA P.O Box 1173, Station B DESTINATIONS| Ottawa, Ontario Canada K1P 5R2 The mystique of Kenya’s Masai Mara ...... 44 Phone: (613) 259-3038 Fax: (613) 259-5481 E-mail: [email protected] www.diplomatonline.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publisher assumes no responsibility for unsolicited material. Published by No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the Sparrow House publisher. The views expressed in the articles are those of the authors. © 2007 ISSN 1190-8343 Enterprises Inc. Publication Mail # 40957514. Return undeliverable Canadian copies to: Diplomat Magazine, P.O. Box 1173, Station B, Ottawa, ON K1P 5R2 DIPLOMATICA|EDITOR’S NOTE

Russia rises as Westdal was Canada’s CONTRIBUTORS ambassador to Russia democracy fades until 2006 and is wholly Christopher Westdal, author of “Russia has optimistic about its fu- never had so much legitimacy” he world’s largest country is back. ture. He urges Canada And, as Ambassador Georgiy Mame- to work on relations Tdov says, it’s a rich force to reckon with Russia, a country with. “We have everything you have,” he he says has never been JENNIFER CAMPBELL says, as he’s explaining why the country’s more legitimate. citizenry is rejecting the liberal values es- Also in our Dispatches section, we offer poused in the ’90s. There were, he says, a story about travel security – for horses. some 30 million Russians living in “abject Like humans, horses cannot travel abroad poverty” in “one of the richest countries in (or even within Canada for that matter) the world.” They’re more comfortable without a passport. The domestic “pass- with the more constrained, but economi- ports” come from Equine Canada; the Christopher Westdal retired from Foreign cally balanced, existence they now have. cross-border versions come from the Affairs last spring after 34 years of public With President being Fédération Equestre Internationale, in service, the last three as ambassador to named Time Magazine’s 2007 Person of the Switzerland. Up front, there are a series of Russia. His foreign service career began in Year, and international observers calling punchy quotes from Venezuelan President 1973 when, he joined the Canadian Inter- the December election a “triumph of cor- Hugo Chavez, and there’s an interview national Development Agency. He served ruption,” there’s no doubt there are issues with departing Egyptian Ambassador in and (73-75) and was Am- – and questions. What’s happening to free- Mahmoud El-Saeed. He will retire in bassador to Burma and (82- dom of the press? When if ever will the March, on his 60th birthday. 85), (91-93), Geneva (UN, country, a permanent member of the UN In our Delights section, there’s much Nuclear Non-Proliferation Treaty and Security Council and a G8 giant, become a else. Books writer George Abraham re- Disarmament) and (96-98). At credible democracy? How long will Putin views the Mulroney, Chrétien and Blair bi- headquarters, he was CIDA regional di- stick around and what steps will he take to ographies. Wine columnist Stephen Beckta rector for East Africa (78-82), DFAIT direc- allow himself to do so? Who are new Rus- tells you how to navigate the LCBO, and tor general for international organizations sia’s friends – Iran? China? North Korea? food writer Margaret Dickenson explains (87-91) and was twice (76-78 and 85-87) What, exactly is Russia up to in the Arctic? the importance of the side dish. Ms. Dick- seconded to the foreign affairs and de- Is it mapping territory Canada claims? Is enson has won her third international fence secretariat of the Privy Council Of- the Cold War over, or is it just beginning? award for her cookbook, Margaret’s Table – fice. Mr. Westdal sustains an interest in Mr. Mamedov and I sat down and had Easy Cooking & Inspiring Entertaining. The foreign affairs, particularly circumpolar a far-reaching discussion touching on all of Cordon d’Or – Gold Ribbon International cooperation and commerce. the above. He defended his country’s Annual Cookbook and Culinary Arts progress and pleaded for time to get it Awards chose it as the “best cookbook on Charles Enman, author of “May I see your right. The latest version of Russia is only entertaining.” In addition, for the third Passport, Mr. Ed?” 17 years old, he noted, while Canada is year in a row, she won “best published 139. And Canada is “still seeking perfect recipe” at the same event for a recipe answers for difficult questions” such as which appeared in Diplomat. Our congrat- police brutality, corruption, how to deal ulations to Margaret on all her successes. with its Aboriginal people. For further We also have a feature on the home of thoughts on this issue, we feature the Turkish Ambassador Aydemir Erman and views of Chris Westdal in a text he his wife Gulen and a travel story on the adapted from his speech to the Canadian wonders of Kenya. Institute of International Affairs’ “Russia Resurgent” conference in November. Mr. Jennifer Campbell is Diplomat’s editor Alberta-native Charles Enman has been a journalist for 17 years, seven of them for UP FRONT the Telegraph Journal in Saint John, and 10 Photographer Brigitte Bouvier braved the first in Ottawa, where he has written for The snow of the year to get a shot of Russian Ambas- Ottawa Citizen, other CanWest papers; for sador Georgiy Mamedov looking cold – and Russ- Ottawa Magazine, and other publications. ian – outside the imposing embassy on Charlotte He has a BA in philosophy, a graduate Street. She had hoped he would wear a typically diploma in journalism, and a certificate in Russian hat, known as the ushanka. Instead, Mr. French studies from the Université d’Aix- Mamedov surfaced with a beret-style chapeau. en-Provence. His travels, which have When she asked why he didn’t want to wear the taken him across Europe and parts of traditional headgear, he told her it wasn’t cold Asia, have been on a human passport. enough in Canada to warrant such a hat. He There is no truth to the rumour that the would be ridiculed by his countrymen. Fair New York Times has called him “the great enough. Our cover package starts on page 10. green hope of the Canadian novel.”

2 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 VERBATIM|DIPLOMATICA

BBC News on December 29, 2006 THE WORLD Mr. Chavez announced he would ACCORDING shut down the oppositional RCTV station, the oldest private station TO: that had broadcast for 53 years, in March. Venezu elan "There will be no new oper- Presiden ating license for this coupist t Hug TV channel called RCTV. The o Chavez operating license is over… So go and turn off the equip- ment," Mr. Chavez said. The channel was "at the service of coups against the people, against the na- tion, against national independence, against the dignity of the republic."

Televised national speech on Jan. 8, 2007 “We’re moving toward a socialist repub- lic of Venezuela, and that requires a deep Venezuelan energy and electricity sector, steel company in Venezuela: “It has cre- reform of our national constitution,” Mr. all of it, absolutely all," Mr. Chavez said. "If ated a monopoly,” he said, and is selling Chavez said after swearing in his new someone wants to stay on as our partner, its products abroad at market prices. “If cabinet. He won a third term that ends in then the door is open but if he does not the company does not immediately agree 2013. “We are in an existential moment of want to stay as our minority partner, then to change this process they will oblige me Venezuelan life. We’re heading toward hand me the field and goodbye." to nationalize it… Sidor has to produce socialism, and nothing and no one can and give priority to our national indus- prevent it. BBC News on May 3, 2007 tries… and at low cost.” "I'm very much of (Leon) Trotsky's line — the permanent revolution," he said. “Private banks have to give priority to fi- New York Times on “All of that which was privatized, let it be nancing the industrial sectors of May 27, 2007 nationalized. Venezuela at low cost.” And if they don’t, "The nation should recover its owner- “it’s better that they go [away]… that With little more than an hour to go late ship of strategic sectors.” they turn over the banks to me, that we Sunday until this country’s oldest televi- nationalize them and get all the banks to sion network was to be taken off the air, From his Presidential work for the development of the country the police dispersed thousands of protest- Address on Jan. 13, 2007 and not to speculate and produce huge ers by firing tear gas into demonstrations profits.” against the measure. “We have decided to nationalize the whole Of Sidor, the huge Luxembourg-based

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The Associated Press on “God willing, with the fall of the dol- gional summit meeting in Chile, where the June 1, 2007 lar, the deviant U.S. imperialism will fall Venezuelan leader had called Spain's for- During an event with the visiting leader of as soon as possible, too,” Mr. Chavez said mer premier, Jose Maria Aznar, a fascist. Vietnam's communist party, Mr. Chavez after a two-hour closed meeting with "The only way this is going to be fixed said of the TV station closing: "interna- Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, the Iranian state is for the king of Spain to offer an apol- tional rightist, extreme-rightist and fascist news agency IRNA reported. ogy for having attacked the Venezuelan movements are attacking Venezuela from “The U.S. empire is coming down,” Mr. head of state," Mr. Chavez said. everywhere – from Europe, the United Chavez told Venezuelan TV, calling the Otherwise, "I'll start thinking about States, Brasilia." ’s Euro a better option what actions to take," he continued. He targeted Brazil’s Senate for approv- and saying Latin American nations were "Spaniards bought some banks here, and ing a motion earlier in the day including a also considering a common currency. it doesn't cost me anything to take those call for Mr. Chavez to reopen the channel. “We have common viewpoints and we banks back and nationalize them again, "Nobody should interfere," Mr. Chavez will stand by each other until we capture and put them in the service of the said, accusing lawmakers in Brazil of "re- the high peaks. God is with us and vic- Venezuelan people." peating like a parrot what is said in tory is awaiting us,” Mr. Ahmadinejad Washington." was quoted as saying by IRNA. He said The Times of London on "To those representatives of the Brazil- he and Mr. Chavez would stick together Dec. 4, 2007 ian right, I say that it is much, much, to defend their “nations and ideals to the much more probable that the Portuguese end.” Defeated in his bid to hold presidency for empire will again install itself in Brasilia life, Mr. Chavez said: “I am not with- than that the Venezuelan government will The Associated Press on drawing a single comma from this pro- return the expired (broadcast) concession Dec. 2, 2007 posal — it remains alive.” He promised to to the Venezuelan oligarchy." “continue in the battle to build socialism” President Hugo Chavez threatened Friday in Venezuela, adding: “We are ready for a The Associated Press on to nationalize the Venezuelan subsidiaries long battle.” Nov. 20 2007 of Spanish banks Banco Santander SA and Repeating the phrase he used after his Banco Bilbao Vizcaya Argentaria SA, if failed 1992 military coup, he said: “We “Here are two brother countries, united like Spain's king does not apologize for telling couldn't do it — for now.” a single fist,” Mr. Chavez said upon his ar- Mr. Chavez to "shut up." rival in Tehran, according to Venezuela’s Spain's King Juan Carlos on Nov. 10 —Compiled by Donna Jacobs state-run Bolivarian News Agency. told Mr. Chavez to "shut up" during a re-

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4 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 GOOD DEEDS|DIPLOMATICA

Educational EU

hen the European Union reaches out to Canadians, it of- Wten does so through educa- tional awards and contests. The newest program is a children’s drawing competition which was show- cased at the Europe Day celebration at the National Gallery of Canada last May. Judges chose drawings by 12 elementary school children to create a calendar for 2008. The delegation founded the compe- tition, which will continue this year, to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Treaties of Rome. Students aged nine to 11, from Thomas Darcy McGee Catholic School and Lakeview Public School, cre- ated drawings of what the EU means to them. Judges selected the winners based on originality, creativity, message, atten- tion to detail and use of colour. For older students, the EU delegation offers the Young Journalist Award, cre- ated in 2001. The idea is to recognize out- EUROPEAN COMMISSION standing journalistic merit, or potential, This picture by nine-year-old Susan Brennan of Ottawa’s Thomas Darcy McGee Catholic School, appears in the EU’s 2008 calendar. among Canada’s students. The goal, as the mission sees it, is to reinforce links be- tween the people of the EU countries and Brian Innes, winner of the 2006 award, journalists, trade unionists, teachers Canada. Obviously, the idea is also to called it “one the most intense learning and those who work for non-govern- promote awareness of the EU among experiences of my life.” Danny Glen- mental organizations. Applicants be- Canadian students. wright, also a 2006 winner, remembered tween the ages of 25 and 45 outline Students submit, in print or broadcast hearing the Belgian prime minister speak their field of study in their application. form, a story about a current issue facing to the EU parliament on the future of the The program, in place since 1974, the European Union or about Canada-EU EU. “It felt like a very important moment awards four people per year with a relations (this year’s deadline is Jan. 25.) in European Union history and it was five- to eight-day program of meetings The three winning students go to Brus- amazing to be able to be there to watch it with EU officials at EU institutions in sels, home of the largest permanent press live,” Mr. Glenwright said. Brussels, Strasbourg and/or Luxem- corps in the world, for a one-week study Meanwhile, four Canadians per year bourg. Each visit is custom-tailored for tour. Students visit EU institutions in are selected for a similarly educational the participant. Travel and hotel costs Brussels and the trip is paid by the Euro- trip to Brussels. The program is open to are covered and a per diem is paid to pean Commission. bureaucrats, politicians, academics, cover meals and incidentals.

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DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 5 DIPLOMATICA|DIPLOMATIC AGENDA

Slovenia brings two EU firsts

20th century, the member as early as possible. Slovenian nation Accession to the European Union con- FIRST NAME: Tomaz used its constitu- cluded one of the fundamental historical Kunstelj LAST NAME: tional right to leave goals of the nation and all its major politi- Yugoslavia, which cal parties. The change-over to the Euro CITIZENSHIP: Slovenian had become an ob- currency on Jan. 1, 2007 and membership PRESENTED CREDENTIALS AS stacle to its demo- within the Schengen regime (of open bor- June 6, 2006 AMBASSADOR: cratic, social and ders among EU members) after Dec. 21 CE: economic develop- confirm that determination. PREVIOUS EXPERIEN ment. To cap this story, on Jan. 1, 2008, Slove- Chargé d’affaires in Slovenian inde- nia will take the presidency of the EU Argentina. pendence, pro- Council, as the first of the 10 new mem- claimed in June ber states to join in 2004 and the first 1991, was fol- Slavic country to do so. lowed by interna- During its tenure, Slovenia will follow tional recognition in early 1992 the approach of former presidencies in and membership in the UN, the Council leading the community of 500 million he territory of Slovenia lies in the of Europe, the European Union and the people. south of Central Europe between North Atlantic Treaty Organization – the Enlargement is one of the most effec- Tthe eastern margin of the Alps and latter two in 2004. In its 17 years of exis- tive EU political instruments to assure the Northern Adriatic. Throughout his- tence, Slovenia did immense work to es- democratic reforms in candidate and po- tory this territory has had a crossroads tablish an efficient democracy and market tential candidate countries. Slovenia sup- character, linking Central Europe with the economy. ports this process in accordance with the Mediterranean and the Balkan Peninsula Slovenia’s preparation for integration EU enlargement strategy when the candi- and with the Pannonian Plain. Be- into the European Union influenced all date countries comply with the criteria. cause of its specific location, this territory areas of its people’s lives, starting with During its presidency, Slovenia will sup- has always been included in the hege- legislative and institutional adjustment port accession negotiations with Turkey monic interests of European civilizations. and including fundamental changes in in- and Croatia and advocate a clear Euro- Under foreign rulers and foreign cen- dustry, trade, transportation and agricul- pean perspective for the Western Balkans. tres of government from the early Middle ture. Those processes would not have The Lisbon Strategy outlines economic, Ages until the beginning of the 20th cen- been possible without determination and social, employment, energy and environ- tury, Slovenians lost much of the original widespread “EU-phoria” to become a mental dimensions designed to make the ethnic territory they had once occupied. Nevertheless, in the seventh century, they had their own state called Karantanija. From the 14th century until 1918, the ter- ritory of Slovenia had the status of hered- itary province in the Habsburg Monarchy, with its capital in Vienna. In the 16th cen- tury, ethnic Slovenians began to form themselves culturally into a nation. In the middle of the 19th century, the nation established its “United Slovenia” political program. Because the Slovenian nation had failed to realize national-polit- ical autonomy within the Habsburg Monarchy, and because it believed its na- tional development would be secured, it left the Austrian Empire at the end of the First World War, and established the Yu- goslav state, together with the Serbs and Croats. The Slovenians were praised for their contribution to the victory over fas- cism and Nazism in the Second World War. In the new Socialist Yugoslavia, they EUROPEAN COMMISSION had been promised to be an equal partner After a history of foreign rulers, Slovenia (its picturesque coastal town of Piran pictured above) is reaping with other nations. In the last decade of the benefits of becoming a member of the EU. This month, it takes on the organization’s presidency.

6 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 DIPLOMATIC AGENDA|DIPLOMATICA

EU the most competitive economy in the world. This program will continue under the Slovenian presidency. Investing in re- Rockcliffe Park search and innovation, developing a com- For sale or lease $579,000 or $2,900 per month petitive business environment, and 07 adapting the social model to the needs of SOLD 200,000 a competitive economy will be priorities. $1,85 Demographic changes, such as the ag- ing population of the EU and the chal- lenge of developing better cooperation between different generations, is some- thing we must address. Therefore Slove- h nia intends to deepen the European 0 per mont discussion of youth and its perspectives. Rockcliffe$3,50 Park As well, Slovenia will make every effort For rent during its presidency to further develop energy and climate change policy, aimed at achieving the EU’s objectives of sus- tainability, competitiveness and security Marilyn Wilson – Sales Representative 165 Pretoria Avenue, of supply. The goals of freedom, security Ottawa, Ontario K1S 1X1 and justice require dealing with migra- Email: [email protected] tion, fighting organized crime and people trafficking, and combating terrorism, where the efficient Schengen regime will facilitate the high level of common EU safety. In regard to transatlantic co-operation, Slovenia will continue intensive dialogue with Europe’s overseas partners because partnership strength depends on balanced relations with Washington and Ottawa. The EU has to prepare its joint trade study with Canada on existing barriers to the flow of goods, services and capital, to be concluded in the spring of 2008. We also expect transatlantic discussions about air services, open sky policies, cli- mate change and energy. The Middle East is an ongoing political agenda with special attention to the peace process. Meanwhile, the mutually ac- cepted solution for (Western Balkans) is of great EU interest. Discus- sions between cultures is one of the fore- seen priorities for Slovenian presidency, as the year 2008 has been designated as the European Year of Intercultural Dia- logue. Our links through the EU allow all members to contribute to the common European future. Slovenia’s international engagement since independence is going to culminate in the EU presidency. We are proud to be part of a mosaic of very di- verse nations, languages and cultures and we believe that the EU Reform Treaty from Lisbon gives us enough space for fruitful development of diversity within this unity.

Tomaz Kunstelj is the ambassador of Slovenia.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 7 DIPLOMATICA|QUESTIONS ASKED

Egypt’s ambassador on new hopes for Mideast peace, the Muslim Brotherhood and learning Russian under pressure

Canada will be the last posting for the Middle East in general and Islam in Egyptian Ambassador Mahmoud El-Saeed particular. I tried to talk to the Egypt- who turns 60 in March and must retire on ian and Muslim communities here to his birthday. He joined Egypt’s foreign tell them that we, the overwhelming service at the age of 19 and, with the ex- majority of Muslims, have to stand up ception of a mandatory stint in the mil- and clarify what is Islam. We have to itary and a short sabbatical in New stand up to the extremists and we have York to complete his PhD, he has to condemn them; we should not shy spent 40 years in diplomacy. He away or be on the defensive. We have spoke to Diplomat editor Jennifer to explain that terrorists don't repre- Campbell about his time in Canada, sent Islam. what he shares with Israel and why he speaks Russian. DM: What are your hopes for a Mid- east peace agreement? DIPLOMAT MAGAZINE: You've been MES: I was born in 1948 so I was born here for more than three years now. on the birth of Israel. All my life, I've What do you see as your biggest ac- been living this conflict. I really hope complishment in that time? by my retirement the problem also will retire. We are having some signs of MAHMOUD EL-SAEED: I think my hope for the first time in many years. biggest accomplishment is the expan- There's a synchronization of the three sion of relations in all aspects. The sides: The Palestinians and the Israelis, one that I'm proud of is the tripling and the , which plays a of trade volume between the coun- very important role. After Annapolis, tries. There's been an astronomical we saw that there is genuine will by increase in two-way trade. There's both the Palestinians and the Israelis. something like $3 billion of invest- ment from Canada in Egypt and al- DM: What role can Egypt play? most the same amount coming here MES: We have always played the role of a from Egypt. Four or five years ago, facilitator and catalyst. We've had peace- investment coming from Canada ful relations with Israel for a long time was only $200 or $300 million. The now but we also have a close relationship other thing we managed to do is raise with the Palestinians. So we try to bring the profile of Canada in Egypt very them together, to foster compromise. much. What I did was that I kept badg- Emotions run high in the Middle East and ering ministers (from Egypt) to come. history runs deep. People don't forget it – The first year, we had a delegation of sometimes it's a burden. business leaders – something like 30 of them – and two ministers. We invited DM: What's your take on the Muslim journalists and the coverage of the trip Brotherhood? was tremendous. The businessmen MES: The Muslim Brotherhood in Egypt were so impressed by the possibilities is a banned organization. We don't mix and potential for further cooperation. religion with politics. If you want to The ministers made a two-hour presen- have a charity or an NGO or a social tation to cabinet. It was very well re- organization, that's fine but mixing re- ceived and it started snowballing after ligion with politics is not allowed. It that. Now we have an almost unstop- goes against our culture, it goes pable stream of visits and delegations against our history, it goes against our coming over. There are also delega- constitution. tions going there. DM: They're not allowed to run offi- DM: What issue has most troubled you cially but they do. since you took the job? What's kept MES: They do, they run as independ- you awake at night? ents. They have almost 88 members of MES: Honestly, there were a couple of parliament which is about 20 per cent.

KIER GILMOUR things. One was the misperception of It's not a concern. They always raise

8 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 QUESTIONS ASKED|DIPLOMATICA

the slogan that Islam is the solution. We press them to say what's the Is- lamic solution to the housing problem Besfobmjofpgepxoupxo/Tfsfojuzpgbtvjuf/ or the traffic jams, or to the agricul- tural policy. They would like to take Egypt to a theocracy. I always say these ¦ Epxoupxo mpdbujpo- dmptf up tipqt ' buusbdujpot are the pains of the birth of a more ¦ Tqbdjpvt tvjuft xjui gvmm ljudifot- fotvjuf mbvoesz open, more liberal society. ¦ Gjuoftt dfousf xjui joepps qppm- fyfsdjtf sppn ¦ Dpnqmjnfoubsz 35.ipvs cvtjoftt dfousf ¦ Gsff mpdbm dbmmt ' xjsfmftt ijhi.tqffe Joufsofu DM: What is Egypt's relationship with Tehran? Jefbm gps tipsu boe mpoh ufsn tubzt" MES: Egypt's relationship with Iran used to be very close in the past, how- ever, we haven't had full diplomatic re- lations with Iran since the Islamic Sftfswf po.mjof; xxx/mft.tvjuft/dpn 0 241 Cfttfsfs Tusffu ¦ 724.343.3111 ¦ 2.911.378.2:9: revolution, for some basic reasons. We put in certain conditions for the re- sumption of diplomatic relations and unfortunately, those conditions have not been met. We have our views of certain international issues, like the nuclear file. In our contacts with Irani- ans, we try to explain several things. One, the absolute necessity to abide by all international agreements and proto- cols – for example the verification of EXPERIENCE L'ART DE VIVRE all nuclear power plants. Number two: We say that definitely the region can- not take another nuclear power. We also make a point that this, in a way, is www.signaturesrestaurant.com a by-product of the West ignoring that 453 LAURIER AVENUE EAST Israel has had nuclear weapons for so 613.236.2499 long. We ask for one standard in deal- ing with everyone. On the other hand, we insist that all countries are invited to use technology for the peaceful use of nuclear energy.

DM: One more question – why do you speak Russian? MES: That has a story. I graduated from university at 19-and-a-half. Within a few months, I was drafted into the army, during the war in 1967. There were Soviet advisors who brought their own interpreters and there was a great deal of misunderstanding be- cause Arabic is not an easy language and they'd had quick courses. The Egyptian military selected young draftees who had language skills and they gave us a crash course – six months, 12-hour days. If you don't do your homework, the next day you're in prison. For me, it was a big incentive because I was in the foreign service and I was learning a language. I kept it up with the Soviets until they were kicked out in 1971. It's a beautiful lan- guage. I keep it up. I practice with Georgiy (Mamedov, the Russian Am- bassador).

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 9 DISPATCHES|RUSSIA RISING BRIGITTE BOUVIER

10 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 RUSSIA RISING|DISPATCHES

‘Our global ambition is to be a normal state’

Russian Ambassador Georgiy Mamedov tells Jennifer Campbell that he knows his country is free – because he himself, as a diplomat, lives it everyday. But he pleads, ‘give us time to get it right.’

eorgiy Mamedov is a seasoned diplomat and trusted confidante of Russian President Vladimir Putin. He was Moscow's man in Amer- ica, both when it was the former and after its dissolu- tion. Indeed, when he was in charge of Moscow's American file, he used to tell the American ambassador to call him on Russian busi- Gness in the morning and Soviet business in the afternoon. He remembers assigning briefing notes for Mikhail Gorbachev and at the same time. In all, he spent 30 years dealing with Americans on , 20 of them in Moscow, an- other 10 in Washington. In 2003, Mr. Putin sent him to Canada to deal with issues such as Arctic sovereignty and energy resource competition.

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DIPLOMAT MAGAZINE: Mr. Mamedov, in couldn’t leave my job – it was too impor- what we have now is absolutely incom- the last two speeches you gave, you men- tant – but I told Yeltsin that if I could parable to what we had then. I don’t need tioned two personal connections. The first combine them, I would do it, because I instructions to meet with you, or even the was that you’re half-Muslim. saw it as a bridge. We needed some conti- prime minister. I have more freedom than GEORGIY MAMEDOV: Yes, my father was nuity and I didn’t want this foolish bick- (representatives from) some Western born in Baku, . I was born in ering inside. This was a proposal they countries. They very seldom give me any Moscow. My mother was Russian. My fa- couldn’t refuse so they agreed and for a instructions. They keep telling me I’m a ther wasn’t practicing. He was a card-car- short period of time, I wore two hats. It seasoned guy and I know what to do. It’s rying member of the Communist party was a lot of fun. My good friend, Ameri- unimaginable. and he was head of Soviet TV. He was a can Ambassador Jim Collins was, in the I remember my last assignment in veteran of World War II and during the beginning, wondering how we’d do it. I Washington – every move was controlled. war he was parachuted into Italy and told him it was politics. It was a very un- Every meeting I had with foreign affairs then he was promoted and was a member usual situation, but we were both sea- was tightly controlled and I’d be shaking of our legal team at Nuremberg. This is soned professionals so we took care of it. inside. Now, I feel completely free and for where he and my mother got acquainted me, this feeling of internal freedom tells because she translated from German to more about what’s happening in Russia Russian and he was a member of the So- I MUST TELL YOU THAT than any number of publications in the viet prosecution team. Then, your humble West. Yes, there are a lot of things that HISTORY TAKES SOME TIME. servant (Mr. Mamedov) appeared in 1947. need to be changed for the better but YOU ARE 139 AND STILL YOU’RE we’re dealing now with bare essentials. DM: The other thing you said was that Our priority is now to re-establish the your grandfather was shot by Stalin. SEEKING PERFECT ANSWERS bare essentials to the socio-economic GM: He was. The father of my father. He safety net which was crushed, destroyed, was in the military and Stalin purged the FOR DIFFICULT QUESTIONS – because the nation-state ceased to exist. military after the war because he was Yes, it was, in many respects deficient, afraid that their influence would under- POLICE BRUTALITY, inferior to Canadian standards, but it was cut his authority. The war was over and something and ordinary people with their he was from Azerbaijan and Stalin was CORRUPTION, ABORIGINALS. kids and their elders were accustomed to very tough on his neighbours, Armeni- having cheap housing, free medicare, free WE ARE JUST 17 YEARS OLD, ans, Azeris and Georgians. He was shot education and childcare. So, they ex- and killed and it made my father’s life WHICH IS PEANUTS COMPARED pected results. very miserable. It took some time for him One of the reasons why today, so- to reestablish himself. TO YOU. GIVE US A CHANCE. called liberal opposition is not very pop- ular is not because of the KGB or Putin, DM: Would you talk a little bit about how it’s because they didn’t provide relevant you represented the Soviet Union and Even though the Soviet Union still ex- answers to social-economic issues in the Russia at the same time? isted, we were preparing for Yeltsin’s visit early 90s. They were at the head of the GM: It was after the attempted Commu- to Washington. So I told him to call me government and the net result was eco- nist coup in August (1991). (Mikhail) Gor- before lunch and I will represent Russia. nomic collapse in 1998. The (collapse) bachev was momentarily in prison, then After lunch, I said, we will discuss rela- robbed ordinary Russians of all they had he was freed with the help of (Boris) tions between Gorbachev and George accumulated since the fall of the Soviet Yeltsin. He returned but his relationship Bush, Sr. And this went quite admirably. Union. You had 30 million people in 1999 with Yeltsin was strained. Yeltsin repre- The only problem came when we were when Putin came in, living in abject sented Russia, and wanted to break out of preparing for (Secretary of State) Jim poverty in one of the richest countries in the Soviet Union. Gorbachev’s desire was Baker’s visit to Moscow and we had to the world. to preserve the Soviet Union since he was prepare briefs for Gorbachev and Yeltsin. president. For most issues, like the Middle East, DM: You’re saying we’re asking too much I was working for the Soviet foreign they were similar policies but on things too soon. ministry and during the Soviet Union, all like the domestic situation, they were po- GM: Absolutely. I come from the academic republics had their own small representa- lar (opposites). I still have the several community. I received my PhD in history tions, like for example. So when pages (from those days) just to remind and I must tell you that history takes some Yeltsin was propelled to a position of pre- me that life is sometimes not simple. time. You are 139 and still you’re seeking ponderance, he wanted to make his for- perfect answers for difficult questions – eign ministry larger than the Soviet DM: Discuss the survival of democracy in police brutality, corruption, Aboriginals. foreign ministry. With the Soviet foreign Russia. We are just 17 years old, which is peanuts ministry, I was in charge of American pol- GM: I lived in Russia. Before I was compared to you. Give us a chance. We’re icy which meant Canadians and Ameri- posted to Canada, I lived there for 20 not teenagers because there’s accumulated cans and arms control and security. years – it must be a record. I survived history and we’re part of Europe like we’re The problem Yeltsin had was that he seven ministers and five leaders. I re- part of Asia and also want closer terms didn’t have people. They approached me turned from my last assignment in the with North America. and asked me if I would mind working U.S. in 1982 and I came to Canada in I spent 30 years working on that rela- for Russia as deputy foreign minister. I 2003. I saw it all and I would say that tionship and my task was not to prepare

12 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 RUSSIA RISING|DISPATCHES BRIGITTE BOUVIER for war, it was to improve relations. And domestic issues, essentials. And believe to join the foreign service and didn’t stick now, when I work with Putin and I pro- me, the rest of it, reprivatization of oil in academia was that there were opportu- pose ways to improve the relations, he and gas and more freedom to mass me- nities to travel abroad. Now, if you have never says no. We’ve had some argu- dia, will follow suit. In your own history, money, you will travel. It gives you a ments about and other things but there are chapters of oligarchs and labour much broader picture of the world. I they were always open. I wouldn’t have unrest but with improvement in living think the young generation will have the dreamed of having an argument with standards and closer integration in the freedom to choose because they see Gorbachev during the Soviet Union. I world community, it comes. things. When you have a siege psychol- would have been too scared. ogy, hiding behind an Iron Curtain, this is Here’s an example. We knew before DM: What can you say about freedom of a prescription for confrontation and dis- George W. Bush became president that he the press in Russia? aster. You hear all kinds of scary tales was planning to go ahead with Star Wars GM: Everything will come, including free- about your neighbours – now they can and drop the ABM Treaty which was the dom of the press. I see the difference be- travel and see. My son, who is now 35, cornerstone of all our arms-control agree- tween today and when I was a Soviet will live in an absolutely normal country. ments. We knew that and we had quite a student. After all, each human can judge We Russians are good learners. Some- debate. Some people argued that since he only on the basis of his own experience. If times it serves us ill because we are like a was undercutting strategic stability, we you browse through the Russian Internet sponge. We very uncritically accepted should freeze, stop negotiating. When the every morning, you will see much more Marxism which was not ours but a Ger- minister of foreign affairs said we should biting criticism of Russian leadership, man product. Then suddenly we did do opposite – that we should propose fur- government, bureaucracy than you’ll find something with Marxism that even Ger- ther cuts to nuclear weapons to Bush – in Maclean’s magazine (which, in Septem- mans didn’t dare do and the net result (Putin) supported that. ber, ran a cover story called Putin the Ter- was very bad. Our first proposal to the new president rible). was to cut our nuclear arsenal to four But this world is also about competi- DM: Why does it take a generation to give times fewer than we had. We didn’t quite tion. Even with the end of world war, you media freedom? manage it – we had to settle on a higher will never push Pepsi to say something GM: It took generations in the United number because Americans wanted more extremely nice about Coke. We will com- States and Great Britain and Canada to nuclear weapons – but the cut was the net pete with American oil and gas, with create the kind of press you have today. result of our proposal. My president British aerospace and other things. Some- We are no different from you. We are the wants to have good relations with the times, during the competition, not all of same human beings and we will need United States and that’s important for the methods you use are above the board some time to adjust after 70 years of total- Canadians to know because some say we and I’m not as flabbergasted or (ticked) itarian rule. can work with Russia but we have to off by all these scary articles about Russia. reckon the fact that Russian-American re- Again, give it time. And also, the answer DM: But it seems there’s a regression. lations are deteriorating. is not publishing biting responses saying GM: I don’t see a regression. There’s a re- There’s no such doomsday scenario. look at what’s happening in your own grouping. Before everything was coordi- There are problems, and they were al- country. nated by the state. Now much mass ways there, but it’s nothing like the Cold The only real answer is to promote hu- media is owned by private citizens and it War. For 70 years, we were at each other’s man-to-human exchanges. When there takes private citizens some time to get throats, for the last 40, literally, with nu- are vested interests, your relationship used to the new social responsibility that clear weapons. Last time we wanted to go changes. Today, it’s cheaper for us to is bestowed on them by virtue of their war was 1983. Now it’s a different ball travel abroad. It makes an opportunity newly accumulated wealth. They are not game. I can assure you that Russia is no for people to travel abroad and learn pressured by the state but they’re first of longer messianic and is concentrated on from others. One of the reasons I decided all businessmen these days and they be-

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lieve if they do something that a certain group of bureaucrats want them to do, it CHURCHILL will be good for their business. When they come of age and understand that ownership means a social responsibility, I think you will see a different picture.

DM: What about Mr. Putin – now that he's GREENLAND won his "mandate", will he relax on this? NORTH POLE GM: He’s more relaxed than you think. I know him personally. I don’t see him nervous. Of course it wasn’t pleasant for him to be pressured by Americans and others but he understands. It’s the name of the game. It’s about competition. Yes, of course, there are some people who are MURMANSK sincerely concerned about our well-being and our democracy but there’s also a big game – a competition about how this, or other international problems, will be re- solved. Some people believe that if you pressure Russia on elections, maybe Rus- sia will be more forthcoming on Kosovo Ambassador Mamedov says he was quick to congratulate Prime Minister Stephen Harper on spending $8 million on Churchill’s infrastructure. He has discussed ways to broaden the range of goods shipped be- or Iran. The important thing to remember tween Murmansk and Churchill with Manitoba Premier Gary Doer. is that the people who want democracy and freedom the most are Russian. It’s the discussed with Manitoba Premier Gary custodians of a very fragile ecosystem way they want their children, eventually, Doer and with the mayor of Churchill, and if we don't do something in a hurry, to live. how we could broaden the range of I'm afraid no amount of icebreakers will goods from Murmansk to Churchill. We help humanity, especially First Nations. DM: You mentioned competition. Let's started this year with fertilizer but we're talk about the Arctic. Is Russia mapping also quite prepared to bring some fuel for DM: What are Russia's strategic ambi- territory that Canada will want to claim? your Aboriginal population. If we were tions? GM: I think we’re on the same page so concerned – I mean this pronounce- GM: Our most strategic objective is our legally there. It’s like a sports competition ment about defending sovereignty – I domestic situation. To provide our peo- – we have a referee in the United Nations. wouldn't be the one to tell my military at- ple, at long last, with good living condi- We’re both members of the convention. taché to approach your defence depart- tions. It means they also want to live We introduced our application, you will ment to suggest we sell you some ice peacefully and we must cooperate with follow suit. And it will proceed. Mean- breakers with sub-machine guns. I'm the outside world to fight against terror- while, you have your Northwest passage, dead serious. We have some – they're a ism and separatism. Like Canada, we're a we have our Northeast passage. We don’t little outdated but no one else is in the home to more than 100 nationalities. I have much to divide. All these offshore business. When the Americans had some told you I'm part-Muslim. There are 16 things, we can do it alone. We will need trouble in the North, they leased our ice- million Muslims living in Russia – we are the technology of others. So far we are breakers. If we were concerned about like a small Muslim country. So whenever teaming up with Norwegians and the confrontation with you in the North, do we hear about extremists causing trouble French but there is a niche for Canadians. you think I, as an ambassador who's dealt in other countries, we are in the same Since we’re both rich in energy resources, with arms control all his life, would sug- boat. It's not our global ambition to be- it’s more about cooperation than compe- gest this to you? I understand you don't come a superpower. What does super- tition. Everyone wants your or our en- have money for that or probably you'd power mean? Ask your prime minister. ergy resources. According to analytical prefer to build one yourself but we're He thinks Canada is a superpower be- forecasts, in some 10 or 20 years, either quite prepared to do it. There will be cause of energy resources. Sometimes the China or the U.S. will lack 500 million competition and I know some of your criteria is having nuclear weapons. Well, tons of oil. That's a huge number. And companies would like the replace the theoretically we and the United States they will have to turn to us or to you be- French and Norwegians working with us have enough weapons to annihilate the cause the Middle East can't cover all but that's different. We have a common world in 15 seconds. But believe me, those needs. When I think about Canada interest, also, to convince Americans to there's no satisfaction in that. Satisfaction and Russia and the Arctic, our economies join this United Nations convention. comes from knowing that your children are mutually complementary. When your They're the ones outside the tent. We're and your grandchildren will live in a nor- prime minister went to Churchill, I proba- inside the tent. We have an arrangement mal country and be able to build their bly was the first to send him a congratu- with your foreign affairs to let scientists own destiny. Our global ambition is to be- latory note that he is spending $8 million look at it first, and then we'll get in- come a normal, evolutionary state. Unfor- to improve Churchill's infrastructure. I volved. Meanwhile, my emphasis is on tunately, in the 20th century, we were visited Churchill twice before that and we cooperation. Both Canada and Russia are besieged by different totalitarian demons

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and exorcising them takes some time. We see in any distant future, we will have to States who’s high up – they’re happy for didn't have civil war after 1919. respond. But short of that, I think we the same reason I am. Given the current have no other alternative but to negotiate situation, there is no other option than to DM: You said Russia is a European coun- with our neighbours. It may be difficult, talk to Iran, Syria, etc. This is what we’re try, and Russia is an Asian country. we will pass some diplomatic ups and suggesting. Which predominates? downs. But I don't see sanctions, or GM: Predominantly, the Russian elite was bombing someone, as an option, simply DM: Tell me about your president. Will he influenced by Europe but now it keeps because we're living there. We would feel remain in power forever? changing because both Canada and Rus- the reverberations. You feel it because GM: It will depend on the socio-economic sia depend on immigration. Our immi- you've lost 73 people in Afghanistan. situation – if it will continue to improve. gration and yours doesn't come from Imagine us, losing 30 million lives in the According to the polls, whether you like London or Paris. Ours comes from central Second World War and losing 20,000 dur- Putin or hate his guts, everyone agrees Asia, yours comes from Pakistan, India, ing the unfortunate, ill-advised (Soviet) he's popular. And he is – because of socio- Iran, Haiti. Everything is in motion. We're attempt in Afghanistan. For us, use of economic changes since the year 2000 – all in a state of demographic turbulence. force is really the last resort. All these leg- since Yeltsin left. If this improvement will So far, we're a European country. Our Eu- ends about Russia being as quick-tem- continue, they will also be leaning to him ropean legacy is greater than anything pered as the guys in the Wild West is – people who will be in power will seek else. Our greatest writer, (Aleksandr) absolutely rubbish. We will be criticized his advice. If the situation changes, his Pushkin, started writing his verses in for not being decisive enough. People will popularity will change accordingly. French and then he switched to Russian. look for some hidden rationale like trade There's nothing magic about the name. But this may change. We have the Mus- with Iran or trying to make money. But lim population and in the far east, we're it's very little money we're making in DM: But he has a lot of power at this point receiving immigrants from China who Iran. We can make all this money in trade and it looks as though he's seeking more. come in the thousands. with the United States or with France or GM: Yes, he does because the early 1990s with Canada. I won't name names but were chaotic and whoever (took over) DM: Is Russia going to ally itself with once, I had a guy from the American ad- from Yeltsin would have had more power China? ministration – one of the top people – tell or would preside over the dissolution of GM: Ally is the wrong word. We must me they were prepared to pay me in cash, Russia. It was a very real problem. We take into account the resurgence and several billion dollars, if we would cease had people in the Urals who wanted to growth of China. We must think of what our relations with Iran. It was a very create their own republic. We had people to do with our Siberia and far east, which American proposal and it wasn't made by in the south who wanted to claim a free is very sparsely populated. Taking into a Republican, by the way. and independent republic over there. We account environmental and other prob- were on the verge of dissolution of Russia. lems, we need to have a close relationship DM: When was this? Whoever came after Yeltsin, his test, if with China. On the environment, the ma- GM: It was some time ago when I was in he was a responsible person, was to try to jor polluters these days are the United charge of relations with Americans. The accumulate some more federal power be- States, China and India. Well, you will proposal was made in Washington. It cause federal power was up in the air. He have to sort it out with the Americans – to shows you a certain naïve approach. You was there at the time when people bring them into Kyoto or post-Kyoto. can't pay somebody not to talk to his wanted more cohesiveness, more clout We'll do the same with China and India. neighbours. Imagine living close to some- with the federal centre, when people It's not an alliance, it's a complex. There body and being told those are bad guys. were exasperated that the new freedom will be a certain Pacific Rim, economic, It's not an option for us. For us, an option didn't bring them any material goods environmental and social complex. We're is, and will continue to be, asking Ameri- whatsoever and destroyed the little safety all a small village. We can't have the lux- cans to open dialogue with Iranians. net that they enjoyed under a totalitarian ury any longer of teaming up with Euro- regime. So he had all the issues at once. peans. Our policy – foreign, social, DM: What are you doing with Iran and its He had a very tough eight years and I'm economic and environmental policy – nuclear reactor? sure he's not dying to remain president must be multi-faceted. It won't be the po- GM: You just heard from American intelli- for life because he is a smart guy. When- litical or military alliance that some peo- gence that they don’t believe there’s any ever I had to deal with him on crucial is- ple are worried about with China. ongoing nuclear program in Iran and sues – and relations with Americans are they can vouch for going back three never easy – his instincts were always DM: What’s Russia's policy toward North years. It’s quite a different tune from right. And I think his instincts will be Korea and Iran? what they said (previously), that we’re on right and he will find a place for himself GM: The answer is we're neighbouring the verge of the Third World War. I hope in our political structure. Which it will be, countries so we can't afford, like some there is a sea-change in the American es- I don't know. And all those who predict distant country, to think in terms of either tablishment. They’ve had enough Iraqs what will happen in Russia as if it's some having diplomatic relations or sending in and even American intelligence under- kind of arithmetic, they don't know Rus- the marines. Sending in the marines is no stands that you must calm things down – sia. Russia is still very unpredictable and option for us. We tried it during the So- create an environment to negotiate rather still in a period of transition. On various viet Union with Afghanistan and that re- than threaten people with bombard- occasions, Russia will surprise you. sult was ghastly. Of course, if someone ments, wars and invasion. Yesterday, I attacks us physically, which I don't fore- had a call from a friend in the United Jennifer Campbell is editor of Diplomat.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 15 DISPATCHES|RUSSIA RISING ‘Russia has never had so much legitimacy’ All risks aside, you’ve got to be optimistic about our other neighbour, the largest country in the world, writes Chris Westdal, Canada’s former ambassador to Russia

must warn you at the outset that I am would also be good for us to get a grip on That’s the first point. The next five are an optimist. It may be true that a pes- our nerves about terrorism, an ancient shorter. Isimist is a well-informed optimist. I pre- scourge that feeds on feeble nerves. What- Number two: Russia’s dramatic fer the notion that they’ve both got the ever else it did, the massive crime of 9/11 progress under President Vladimir Putin same fate, but the optimist enjoys the trip. blew the United States right off its moor- – and the likelihood it will continue, I’m inclined to enjoy life, despite the me- ings. Though it was no such thing, it was through momentum (and not necessarily dia’s congenitally gloomy versions of made into another Pearl Harbor – and it under Putin) – should be recognized, un- what’s newsworthy. has done U.S. credibility about as much derstood and celebrated. The potential of Indeed, our focus is so intense on bad damage as the Japanese Air Force once did these tough, talented people, freed now news, with crises every hour, that we’re its Pacific Fleet, revealing a glass jaw omi- of the deadweight of communist gibber- practically incapable of recognizing our nously ill-suited to that wise fulfillment of ish and barren empire, is, yet again, un- blessings, comprehending and appreciat- global responsibility which once made derestimated. Russia is a great bear. We ing all that’s so good around us. The uni- powerful U.S. exceptionalism quite widely should want it on our side. verse is generous; heaven is life on this palatable. Five-sixths of Hitler’s German army still-gorgeous earth. Not only is the “city on the hill” not was consumed on the eastern front. In that But I’m a humble optimist. Jack Mat- shining any more, though. Capitalist, com- Great Patriotic War we know as World lock, President Ronald Reagan’s ambassa- munist China is working, astonishingly War Two, 10 of the 11 biggest battles were dor in Moscow, put it well. He said he’d well, its economic model meeting with fought there too. We should never forget memorized two sets of famous last words. quite sufficient approval internationally, how much freedom Russians won there – The first, “Alcohol has no effect on me.” giving hundreds of millions the best Chi- or how little they themselves came to en- The second, “I understand the Russians.” nese lives in history. joy. I can’t claim much such wisdom, but I Meanwhile, sharp limits in the capacity Third, we disputed the legitimacy of the will share some of my views about Rus- and the competence of those moved to ful- Soviet Union and its congenital messian- sia’s new, different, legitimate, unique and fill perceived responsibility to protect in- ism and we spared no effort to “contain” crucial federation – at home; in its many ternal victims of vicious regimes have it. But Russia now is entirely legitimate (a regions, with interests to be served and been grimly exposed in Iraq and far be- huge change, yet to be fully digested), reasonably accommodated; in the world, yond – so grimly, I think it clear, as to put warranting none of the antagonism inher- as a permanent global player; and in the paid to notions of remote interventionism ent in “containment.” Instead, Russia’s le- Arctic, where it is our permanent neigh- and to usher in recognition of inevitable gitimate security interests, rights and bour. regional hegemonies. responsibilities need recognition and rea- I’ll speak to six propositions: one about Noteworthy as well is that, like it or sonable respect and accommodation. That the world, four about Russia in it and the not, whatever its relation to the actual state means, by the way, neither a free ride for last about Russia and Canada. of human welfare (which has been im- Russia nor any prejudice of low expecta- First, global power is diffusing with un- proving dramatically, for the most part) tions with respect to its performance. It expected rapidity, with growth rates of the effective priority accorded human means simply that Russia should be held BRIC economies (Brazil, Russia, India and rights (and liberal democracy) in interna- to no less – and no more – than the same China) and Bush neo-con catastrophes all tional intercourse has been perceptibly standards expected of other permanent beyond prior imagining. Middle Eastern, lowered. members of the UN Security Council – the African, environmental and other patholo- All things are relative. These develop- United States, France, Britain and China. gies notwithstanding, though, humankind ments – multi-polarity, major power peace, Fourth, Russia’s better angels are is making some stunning progress techno- more minding of one’s own business and, among the finest of their kind. Its worst, logically, economically and socially. Hun- of course, sky-high resource prices – suit though, are comparably distinguished – dreds of millions are escaping misery. Russia well, opening room for initiative and in no need, whatever, of baiting. Ex- Moreover, functional multi-polar security and maneuver which Russia can exploit, cept for the rules of global intercourse, architecture is in prospect, with no real despite its manifest weaknesses. Hence, meanwhile, we can impose little on Rus- need for quarrel among the major powers Russia exhibits somewhat “bizarre self- sia. We should rather want to respect and – assuming deft management, of course, of confidence” (in the fine phrase of my for- deepen our engagement to serve common the problems that arise, as they often do, in mer colleague, Jeremy Kinsman). I do goals – and perhaps inspire emulation (in the vacuums in the wakes of empire. doubt, though, that it will seem “bizarre” cases of any relevant, exemplary perform- So my first command is… celebrate. It for long. ance of our own).

16 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 RUSSIA RISING|DISPATCHES

Fifth, we should keep a little more faith in freedom. It’s true, there wasn’t really a revolution 16 years ago in Russia. People weren’t hanging from lampposts. The mu- sic changed but the orchestra stayed much the same. The right to own property is rev- olutionary, though, and Russia’s growing middle class, people who own Russia like they’ve never owned it before, amidst un- precedented prosperity with freedoms, are all great grounds for hope for Russian democracy. And let’s keep a little faith in human nature, in Russian human nature too. If that faith needs fuel, I find a little Rachmaninoff works wonders. Sixth, geography is forever (though ice, apparently, isn’t). Russia and Canada command three quarters of the northern latitudes of the earth. In this world’s biggest bilateral relationship, we should use all the freedom we never had before and seize our chance now to build unique, rich and rewarding relations, good for all concerned. We can build with political relations and cooperation in a multi-polar world, with investment, trade and commerce, and with art and culture and ideas. The Arctic is where we find ourselves living between Russia and the U.S., leader of the western world. Our relations with Russia are inevitably going to be buffeted by Russia’s relationship with the United States, so it’s in our direct interest that those relations be constructive. I note that Chris Westdal, middle left, stands at the Kremlin, shoulder-to-shoulder with Vladimir Putin, while he was there is only one other country with an in- posted to Russia as Canada’s ambassador from 2003 to 2006. terest as profound as our own in good re- lations between Russia and the West – and power, come what may for Russia, over to never had compounded seven per cent that country, Ukraine, is also living be- new conceptions (like the notion of loyal economic growth, with freedom, before. tween the two. opposition, say) and to immature, It’s never had such freedom to travel, let Let me mention just briefly my (not par- untested institutions (like, for example, alone Internet access, before. ticularly original) worries about Russia’s credible political parties offering coherent And, crucially, it’s never had such legiti- future. Many of them are reflected in the alternatives). Just what do we think we macy before, meaning, in Russia’s case, a life expectancy of Russians, still in stub- know that Russians don’t? whole lot: legitimacy as the world’s largest born decline. All the problems that lie be- Internationally, I worry that Russia state, of course; but legitimacy as well as a neath that harsh statistic and all the might succumb to the tactical temptation permanent global player; legitimacy as a problems in Russia’s baggage, along with to jam fingers in U.S. spokes at every op- nuclear-weapon state, sanctioned by the the certainty that its terms of trade will not portunity. In a zero-sum world, dragging Nuclear Non-Proliferation Treaty (and as always be so sweet … well, I’m bullish more powerful players down enhances bound, note, as any state about Russia, but sometimes I worry that relative status, it’s true, but not to anyone’s to try to respond to such a strategic devel- all this might just swamp the place. real benefit. I’d much rather that Russia – opment as, say, the arrival of an ABM sys- And then, of course, there’s that un- and all powers – move and stay beyond tem on the doorstep); legitimacy as a nerving concentration of power in one and above all that, avoid unnecessary veto-wielding member of the UN Security centre, in one man. Russians know, provocation, accommodate interests mutu- Council; legitimacy as a colossal treasure- though, that if you want a little law, you ally, build human solidarity and help save house of energy and natural resources; need a little order – and, given all their the world. and legitimacy as an interested and influ- fresh, raw experience of the cost of chaos, I titled a talk I gave at Carleton Univer- ential actor in its own neighbourhoods – who are we to judge the priority they ac- sity recently “Russia’s back! New and Im- including the one it shares with us, here cord stability? proved! As Different as Can Be!” Today’s where we meet, on top of the world. Who are we to know either the roots or Russia is new. It’s never been quite like the route of their progress? How can we this before. It’s never had such constitu- Chris Westdal was Canada’s ambassador say just when and how they might hand tional democratic prospects before. It’s to Russia from 2003 – 2006.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 17 DISPATCHES|RUSSIA RISING Dealing with Russia – in six new ways

hen Russian Prime Minister opment of the Russian Federation and De- Viktor Zubkov was in Ottawa partment of Indian and Northern Devel- WNov. 29, he got lots of practice opment of Canada writing his signature. He signed a total of The deal: They’ll strengthen bilateral co- six different agreements – everything operation on Aboriginal and northern is- from agriculture cooperation to deals with sues including environment and Canadian companies. Here’s a primer. conservation, business links through in- vestment in Northern economies, develop- AGRICULTURE ment of traditional Aboriginal economies The parties: Russian Ministry of Agricul- and ways of life, scientific monitoring and ture and Canadian Department of Agri- research. The parties will facilitate direct culture and Agri-food Canada contacts between governments, Aboriginal The deal: They will promote bilateral co- groups, academic and scientific institu- operation in purebred livestock breeding, tions and the private sector. crop production, agricultural engineering The bottom line: The parties will hold bi- and food production technology. They’ll annual meetings to carry out the memo- encourage trade in agricultural produc- RUSSIAN EMBASSY randum of understanding. tion and cooperation in veterinary and Prime Minister Stephen Harper (right) and Russian Prime Minister Viktor Zubkov. phytosanitary areas while expanding joint NUCLEAR POWER COOPERATION research in agricultural education, The parties: Atomic Energy of Canada biotechnologies, biofuel production and Limited (AECL) and the Federal Agency bioproducts. They’ll exchange informa- scientists and regulators as members and for Nuclear Energy tion on agricultural production, risk man- the first such group will look at fish and The deal: The parties to the memoran- agement, crop insurance and support for seafood products. dum of understanding will establish a domestic agricultural production. framework for cooperation on research The bottom line: The Agriculture work- FISHERIES and technology development in the en- ing group of the Intergovernmental Eco- The parties: Department of Fisheries and ergy sector. nomic Commission will continue working Oceans of Canada and the State Commit- The bottom line: One of the possible ar- on such things by holding regular meet- tee on Fisheries of the Russian Federation eas of cooperation is the design of fourth- ings with participants, including business The deal: The parties will help develop generation reactors now that “nuclear people, from both countries. technical, scientific, economic and en- energy is experiencing global renais- forcement cooperation of fisheries re- sance,” the Russian officials said. FOOD SAFETY, ANIMAL AND PLANT HEALTH sources. They’ll ensure that vessels flying The parties: Canadian Food Inspection the flag of their countries in the regulatory TRADE FINANCE AND FINANCIAL SERVICES Agency (CFIA) and the Federal Service of area of the Northwest Atlantic Fisheries The parties: Export Development Canada Veterinary and Phytosanitary Surveillance Organization (NAFO) respect the quota, and Vneshekonombank of Russia The deal: Both parties affirmed their de- conservation and management measures The deal: The parties to this cooperation sire to develop and strengthen coopera- of that body and they’ll exchange infor- agreement will promote trade and invest- tion in these areas by establishing mation on infringements. They’ll promote ment between Canada and Russia by pro- “occasional” bilateral, technical working joint inspection patrols in the those waters viding appropriate financial services. The groups. They believe that this will lead to and will encourage the implementation of two sides will carry out investment proj- mutual desires to enhance food safety, an- the United Nations Fish Stocks Agree- ects, promote trade ties between Canada imal and plant health, while avoiding ment by NAFO. and Russia and expand cooperation in trade disruptions. These groups will work The bottom line: They’ll create a commit- supporting export of Russian and Cana- together to exchange information that will tee for bilateral cooperation on fisheries. dian goods and services to third countries. help verify that only shipments certified The memorandum of understanding isn’t The bottom line: Top priority projects will by the CFIA are sent to Russia for import binding under international law. include power agriculture, coal mining and likewise to Canada. shipbuilding, aircraft construction and in- The bottom line: Working groups will be ARCTIC AND THE NORTH frastructure projects as well as environ- set up as the parties see fit. They’ll include The parties: Ministry of Regional Devel- ment protection services.

18 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 THE OLYMPICS|DISPATCHES May I see your passport, Mr. Ed? Horses, like humans, need passports to travel internationally. Will the lead-up to Bejing 2008 mean long line-ups in passport offices for horses as well? Charles Enman reports.

f Elaine Davies of Kingston has her way, her horse Colombo will be going Ito the 2008 Summer Olympics. And if that’s the case, he’ll have to tuck an inter- national passport into his saddle. The 2008 Olympic Games next August in China will see the convergence of thou- sands of athletes, thousands of journal- ists, hundreds of thousands of tourists – and no few horses. The Olympic Equestrian Events, which will be held in Hong Kong, on the main- land’s edge, will see 200 horses arrive from around the world. The Canadian Equestrian Team expects to field a total of 12 horses for the three Olympic events, with two additional horses in reserve in case of illness or injury. Mrs. Davies’ horse, a 13-year-old geld- ing, is doing well so far. In October, he placed top among Canadian horses in the Fair Hill International eventing competi-

tion in Maryland. Mrs. Davies and her ANTHONY TROLLOPE husband Michael, the former owner of Colombo, a 13-year-old gelding ridden Selena O’Hanlon, may well be heading to Bejing for the 2008 The Kingston Whig-Standard, plan to enter Games. If he does, he’ll have passport in tow. Colombo in the Red Hill Horse Trials in Tallahassee, Florida, in March, and in the Rolex Kentucky Three-Day Event in Lex- documents that accompany a horse to have an FEI passport. If it competes only ington, Kentucky, in April. With contin- any official competition, and make it easy in Canada, then the Equine Canada pass- ued success in these trials, Colombo will to keep track of a horse’s performance. port is sufficient. bid fair to be part of the Olympic contin- Unlike a human passport, they aren’t Oddly, the FEI passport does not re- gent in Hong Kong. (Other non-eques- necessarily connected to the crossing of quire a photograph. What is required is trian events will be held in Beijing and in national borders. Horses that compete an outline diagram showing the identify- several other major cities across mainland only in Canada will still need a passport ing marks unique to the horse. In China.) from Equine Canada, the organization Colombo’s case, there are two whorls (a Eventing is one of three Olympic that promotes horse sport here. These kind of circular flow in the coat) on the equestrian disciplines. The other two are passports will require, like a human pass- right side of his neck, and another on the jumping (in which a horse jumps a series port, a picture of the horse, besides a his- left. And of course, Colombo is also iden- of obstacles) and dressage (in which the tory of ownership, a record of prize tified as a bay horse – his body reddish horse performs intricate stepping ma- money won, and a list of vaccinations re- brown, with black on his mane and tail. noeuvres). Eventing combines both chal- ceived. Final identifying marks are his hind an- lenges and adds a cross-country course. But to go to Hong Kong, or any event kles, which are both white. As Mrs. Davies says, “It’s a triathlon for beyond Canada’s borders, Colombo has “These are very particular to Colombo, horses.” to have an international passport from and you wouldn’t expect to see the same Like every competing horse, Colombo the Fédération Equestre Internationale markings on any other horse,” says will have to go with all his verve and skill (FEI), headquartered in Lausanne, Colombo’s trainer, Morag O’Hanlon, who – but also with a horse passport. Switzerland, which is represented in works with the horse at the Davies’ farm, Horse passports are in some ways like Equine Canada’s Ottawa offices. known as Hawkridge, in Morton, a 30- human passports and in some ways dif- A horse cannot have both passports. If minute drive northeast of Kingston. ferent. In Canada, they’re competition it is competing internationally, it must Fingerprints, like the coats of horses,

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 19 DISPATCHES|THE OLYMPICS

have whorls, and the markings serve much the same identifying function that fingerprints serve for humans. The owner cannot fill out the identifi- cation page. That must be done by a vet- erinarian, who must also certify the record of vaccinations and inoculations the horse has received. Anyone who sees Colombo’s FEI pass- port will know he’s an exotic creature. He travels on a Swedish passport, though he was bought in Britain. A British rider had told the Davies, then looking for a stand- out animal, that Colombo was, as Mrs. Davies puts it, “an upper-level horse, a horse of real promise.” Which he has happily proven to be in the five years they have owned him. When Colombo was imported to Canada, the Davies had to send the pass- port to Equine Canada for a formal change of ownership and inclusion in the Equine Canada database. A new FEI passport costs $345.55, and a purchaser must first have an Equine Canada sport licence for herself. That’s expensive, but horses are ex- pensive. Already this year, the Davies have spent more than $40,000 on Colombo’s maintenance and moving him An Equine Canada passport for competition within Canada. to competitions. “If you send a horse to the Olympics and go yourself, you can imagine how whatever source, familiar. Horses do not usually develop jet lag, costly it can be – but it’s a passion,” Mrs. In a trip of several days, they will stop but the FEI suggests that they arrive sev- Davies says. each night at ‘bed and bale’ places, which eral days before competition to allow full Moving a horse about the world is not have stables for horses and bedrooms for rehydration to take place. easy. If the Davies are taking Colombo to handlers and owners. Though generally Mike Gallagher, the chef de mission of a North American event, they will use known only to horse people, they are the Canadian Equestrian Team, estimates their own truck and trailer. widely available across North America. there are 35 to 40 horses that are candi- The main challenge there is keeping If Colombo goes to the Olympics, he dates for the 12 spots on the Olympic the horse at the right temperature and and his handlers will, of course, fly. Many team. keeping him properly hydrated. The tem- airlines, including Air Canada, allow The FEI says 200 horses in all will perature can be regulated by opening or horses to travel in cargo holds along cer- travel to Hong Kong. closing windows in the horse trailer, and tain routes, though they must be put There are currently 132,104 horse pass- by putting blankets on the horse or re- aboard in special stalls. ports registered in FEI’s database, but a moving them. If Colombo and his team fly out of smaller number, 37,249, are registered to Hydration is a matter of keeping the New York, say, his preparatory training compete and travel this year. horse drinking enough and eating enough camp will be as close to LaGuardia Air- The FEI has offices in 134 countries. moist food. However, in trailers, horses port as possible, to minimize the total Last year, there were 1,954 interna- tend to eat and drink less. So trainers give traveling time on flight day. tional equestrian competitions around the them a little extra salt in the days before On a long trip, a horse risks develop- world. The top five host countries were the trip, to encourage them to drink. ing shipping fever, which is an infection France (with 249 international events), Horses are finicky and may refuse wa- of the lungs and pleural cavity. This can Germany (179), the United States (162), ter that has an unfamiliar odour. The result from dehydration (which impairs Australia (94), and Italy (88). Davies and Ms. O’Hanlon try to avoid the mechanisms in the lungs which fight The largest transportation of competi- that problem by taking along enough wa- germs) or simply from the head-high pos- tion horses ever will take place in 2010, ter from the stable to provide for the du- ture that a tied-up horse must maintain not at the Olympics but at the FEI World ration of the trip. They have an additional (which prevents the gravity-accelerated Equestrian Games in Lexington, Ken- trick – they put a copper penny in the clearance of mucus from the airways). tucky. Roughly 1,000 horses are expected bottom of the water bucket, which Most cases are mild and, with antibiotics, to compete. slightly taints the water, so the equine a stricken horse will often recover in time palate pronounces every mouthful, from for competition. Charles Enman is an Ottawa writer.

20 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 CHINA |DISPATCHES Kai Low from Missouri A 1930s journalist sets up shop in Shanghai – and warns the world of the rising threat of a bellicose Japan

By George Fetherling

generation ago people were busily writing guidebooks—mis- Aguided guidebooks—explaining how American business could elbow its way into Japan’s retail economy. That idea has faded now, supplanted by a sim- ilar dream of breaking into the Chinese market instead. For example, we have seen One Billion Shoppers: Assessing Asia’s Consuming Passions by Paul French and Matthew Crabbe (Penguin Canada, $41.95) and more recently One Billion Cus- tomers: Lessons from the Front Lines of Do- ing Business in China by James MacGregor of the Wall Street Journal (Simon & Schus- ter Canada, $18.99 paper). Perhaps unwit- tingly, most such writers (Mr. French and Mr. Crabbe being exceptions) are follow- ing in the footsteps of an American jour- nalist and entrepreneur named Carl Crow (whose Chinese name was Kai Low). Ex- actly 70 years ago, when China’s popula- tion was only 40 per cent of what it is today, Mr. Crow published Four Hundred Million Customers, which urged Ameri- cans to take advantage of the rich com- mercial opportunities in China. His timing was both dreadful and fortunate. In 1937, America was still coming out of the Depression. But it was also the year that China was finally invaded by Japan, becoming an urgent presence on front pages in the west. The book became quite a famous one and is still known to any- one interested in Shanghai of the be- tween-the-wars period. I myself am such a person. When the yoga instructor says “Go to your happy place,” I transport my mind to Shanghai about 1935, a city so free of authoritarian moralism that one visiting U.S. evangelist said, “If God lets Shanghai endure, He owes an apology to Sodom and Gomorrah.” Paul French has now written a biogra- American Babbitts in China. That is, he an editor on the China Press, one of phy of the book’s author: Carl Crow—A was a go-getter, a Rotarian in outlook if Shanghai’s three English-language Tough Old China Hand: The Life, Times, and not in actual affiliation. dailies. En route there aboard ship, he Adventures of an American in Shanghai, Mr. Crow was a graduate of the jour- met a fellow passenger who told him published by Hong Kong University nalism program at the University of Mis- how he went broke trying to transplant to Press and available in North America souri, the oldest one in the U.S. Other China an idea that had made him pros- from UBC Press and University of Wash- alumni of Missouri had gone to East Asia perous in his native Calgary: opening a ington Press ($35). The picture it paints is seeking work, and in time Mr. Crow was chain of cheap restaurants (as though that of someone who might almost have lured there as well by the old-boy net- China lacked inexpensive eating-places). been a Sinclair Lewis character if Mr. work that had developed. He was nearly Mr. Crow’s idea was more successful. As Lewis had ever written a novel about 30 when he took up his responsibilities as Mr. French explains, “Like most people

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 21 DISPATCHES|CHINA

who arrive in China with some sort of plausible than his own. Soon he was business plan, Carl Crow had an idea to growing weary of newspapers (though he change the way things were done.” He would help found the Shanghai Evening wanted to alter the reading habits of the Post in 1929). In Mr. French’s words, “As tens of thousands of foreigners, the citi- Crow moved from being a journalist to zens of the 14 western countries (or being a businessman, he began to become rather, 13 plus Japan) who lived in Shang- increasingly interested in consumer be- hai’s International Settlement and French haviour, the development of consumer Concession under the extraterritoriality culture and its impact on the wider soci- agreements of the time, making up a cos- ety.” By 1918, he had figured out how to mopolitan community right in the centre fulfil the financial destiny to which he of what was or would soon become was entitled as an American. He set up China’s largest metropolis. China’s first American-style advertising Simply put, he wanted to put out an agency, the first with such innovations as American-style newspaper to compete billboards and ads using attractive young against the British-style ones run by a Chinese women in western-style clothes Fleet Street diaspora, for like most Ameri- to sell consumer products. The company cans at the time, Mr. Crow was pro- was a hit from the very beginning and led foundly anti-British. His “reading of finally to Four Hundred Million Customers, Chinese history led him to draw parallels a long-lived bestseller in its day. The book between the so-called ‘unequal treaties’ was published the same year as a Crow China had been forced to sign under the work that had what now seems the arro- threat of British gunboats and Britain’s gant title I Speak for China. What he meant

treatment of colonial America by [a fore- PENGUIN CANADA was that he spoke in defence of the China runner of] gunboat diplomacy that had After being in China only two years, Carl Crow, that had been the object of Japanese mili- been used to limit the ambitions of those above, published his first book,The Traveler’s tary encroachment for the better part of a favoring independence.” For while over Handbook for China, which became the standard decade and was now engaged in a full- the next quarter century he learned a guide. scale war. Later, when the Sino-Japanese great deal about China, and conveyed it War got subsumed into the Second World to the west through a long series of per- he published his first book, The Traveler’s War, he reached his greatest importance, fectly readable books, he never unlearned Handbook for China, which became the for he had been right all along. He was the United States. “All Americans”, he standard guide. His third book, in 1916, part of the China lobby that included the wrote, “were poor and were made daring was Japan and America, for to his credit he overwhelming charisma offensive of by the conviction that they were destined was among the first wave to warn of Madame Chiang Kai-shek. “Crow was in- to become wealthy.” He was not being Japan’s military and political designs on stantly won over by her charms and after sarcastic. China and indeed the rest of Asia. During meeting her, famously noted, ‘Madame’s As luck would have it, six months after the Great War, as during the Second body was born in China but her mind Mr. Crow came ashore in Shanghai in World War, he did work in official propa- was born in America.’” That was a com- 1911, the empire collapsed and the Chi- ganda. Reading Mr. French’s narrative, it pliment, you see. nese republic was born. The recentness of is difficult not to speculate whether Mr. By then he was a considerable public his arrival did not prevent him from ex- Crow was in fact an asset of the American figure in China and a celebrity in the plaining these tumultuous events to read- intelligence establishment. That seems a west. It was testament to his position that ers overseas (for his work appeared in plausible reason for him to have left he was chosen to negotiate the release of many U.S. papers as well). “The Republic Shanghai for a position as business man- a group of foreigners, including the sister- of China is less than a week old now,” he ager of the Japan Advertiser, an English in-law of John D. Rockefeller Jr., kid- wrote, “but in that time it has begun to paper in Tokyo. Reading of his stay in napped by a leading warlord in 1932 set its house in order. It has equipped it- what he considered the enemy camp, I from the Blue Express, the train that ran self with electric lights, and in the busi- couldn’t help but recall the Jimmy from Beijing to Shanghai. He performed ness-like atmosphere of the place, an old Cagney film Blood on the Sun about an the task supremely well. The incident is style Chinese official would look as out of American journalist in Japan in the 30s: a the one that inspired Josef Von Stern- place as a sedan chair in New York.” He somewhat Crow-like figure who sets out berg’s wonderful film Shanghai Express (in covered the First Republican Convention, to get the goods on the real intentions of which Marlene Dietrich utters the imper- which he likened to “an old-fashioned “the Nips”. ishable line, “It’s taken more than one Methodist revival meeting.” He did not While Mr. Crow was in Tokyo in 1915, man to give me the name Shanghai intend this to be taken negatively. He was a German diplomat bootlegged him a Lily”). from Methodist stock himself. He inter- copy of the “Twenty-One Demands”, the For someone who had been agitating viewed Sun Yat-sen. Indeed, he began to then still-secret document that outlined against the threat of Japanese aggression ghost Mr. Sun’s autobiography (the proj- Imperial Japan’s scheme for subjugating for so many years, he seems to have been ect collapsed). Later he would take credit, China. Mr. Crow claimed that it was he singularly unprepared for its manifesta- as was his custom, for turning Sun away who made it public round the world, tion in the streets of Shanghai. He was from socialism. though there were many other claimants busy writing a report about Colgate After being in-country only two years, to the scoop, several of them more far toothpaste, one of his numerous big U.S.

22 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 CHINA |DISPATCHES

There were many others, including, for example, The City of Flint Grows Up (1943), a panegyric about all the good that the auto plants of Buick, one of his former clients, had done for Flint, Michigan. He died in 1945. Virtually every page of Mr. French’s book betrays the carelessness of his prose, and the copy-editing is wretched throughout. My favourite error concerns a female Canadian spy who was sent to “ferment trouble”. You’ve got to be care- ful with that stuff; it can get you drunk. He does, however, make productive use of Mr. Crow’s books and unpublished pa- PENGUIN CANADA pers, and he knows a great deal about Paul French, author of Carl Crow – A Tough Old Shanghai, including little details of social China Hand history that add to our picture of the place as it was in those days. For exam- clients, when on Black Saturday 1937, the ple, the city was—is—in a pestilential lo- Japanese began shelling the foreign con- cation. At grand dinner parties thrown by cessions. His office was destroyed and he westerners in the ‘20s and ‘30s, Chinese got out by the skin of his teeth, resettling servants would go round the dinner table in New York where he wrote books with spraying a kerosene mixture on the an- renewed vigour. The titles of some of kles of the guests as a prophylaxis against them show the currents in his thinking at malaria-bearing mosquitoes. that time: Foreign Devils in the Flowery Kingdom (1940), Japan’s Dream of World George Fetherling’s most recent book is Empire (1942), The Chinese Are Like That Tales of Two Cities: A Novella Plus Stories (1943) and China Takes Her Place (1944). (Subway Books).

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 23 DELIGHTS|BOOKS

Après moi, le deluge

Mulroney, Chrétien and Blair were tough acts to follow By George Abraham

f journalism is instant history, the decided it was expedient. Everything fates of Jean Chrétien, Tony Blair and had to be scripted and articulated in ad- IBrian Mulroney hang in the balance. vance, much of it with the prior blessing Media reports about these three long- of the PM’s official spokesman. serving prime ministers have focused While The Blair Years offers few sur- mainly on the foibles and scandals that prises, it pulls its punches on the feud marked their time in office, including between Mr. Blair and his successor and their inability to have much of a say in previous chancellor of the exchequer, who would succeed them. Paul Martin, Gordon Brown. Although the diaries Gordon Brown and Kim Campbell did contain frequent references to the con- their predecessors few favours, unlike flict, with the author often called upon U.S. president Gerald Ford who is cred- as a go-between, the book is sparing in ited with starting the rehabilitation of new detail. Richard Nixon from history’s trash bin. But it is unsparing about journalists. Prime Minister Campbell’s reported Looking back on his 10 years with Mr. assertion that “soon the Mulroney years Blair, the former journalist offers this: “It will all be forgotten,” is hard to credit. is my respect for the media that has Mr. Mulroney’s place in history – some- shrunk, and my respect for politics that thing he was acutely aware of while in has grown.” office – is more assured that the short- lived Ms. Campbell’s, although what it Brian Mulroney, Memoirs, McClelland and will eventually look like could well be Stewart, 2007, 1,015 pages determined by a public inquiry into his That the former prime minister has financial relationship with the shady been forced to defend his good name Karlheinz Schrieber. against the word of a man with a repu- Our three book selections provide tation as sullied as Mr. Schreiber’s could highly selective perspectives on the spell disaster for his recollections of his Blair, Chrétien and Mulroney years. All nine years in office. Rather than be three leaders were bitter that – despite judged by his painstaking memoirs their comfortable election victories – the and his record in office, public memory press gave them a hard time, appropri- has proved fickle. He is being judged ating the role of official Opposition in over what he did or did not do for the the process. While the Canadian books $300,000 – he now says $225,000 – that are written by the former prime minis- the lobbyist gave him. This is tragic be- ters themselves, the third author is a cause Mr. Mulroney never saw himself man who probably defined Mr. Blair’s or his country as bit players and public persona more than the British counted himself in the same league as leader did himself. big hitters such as Ronald Reagan. Like Mr. Blair and Mr. Chrétien after Alastair Campbell, The Blair Years: Extracts him, the Conservative leader who gave from the Alastair Campbell Diaries, Random Canada both the GST and NAFTA strug- House, 2007, 757 pages rather lowly title for such an important gled with the decision of whether to run Unlike many other spokespeople who player. He describes his job as “one of for a third term. In July 1989, his journal front for presidents and prime ministers, the shittiest in the world,” and Mr. Blair notes that he has not yet decided Mr. Campbell became a media subject in fought to keep him onside, calling him whether to run again in 1992-93, but by his own right, most recently in the Hut- back from retirement to help Labour early 1992 is convinced that, “If ever I ton Inquiry which looked into the win a third term in office. blink the slightest and indicate I will dossier intended to justify British sup- It is also clear from Mr. Campbell’s not, the entire bureaucracy would port for the invasion of Iraq in March account, that optics often determined freeze, the leadership races would be on, 2003. Whether his job was explaining policy in the Blair government. Mr. Blair discipline would be impossible, and I the NATO mission in Bosnia, his gov- sided with his press aide if Mr. Camp- would be incapable of carrying on over ernment’s kowtowing to the U.S. desire bell criticized a minister for stepping the next crucial 12 months.” to invade Iraq, the mad-cow cull, or the out of line. Northern Ireland secretary He was proved wrong on each of handling of internal government scan- Peter Mandelson was sacrificed in Janu- these predictions. The memoirs record dals, “chief press secretary” seems a ary 2001 simply because Mr. Campbell the fact that there were hardly any tak-

24 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 BOOKS|DELIGHTS

IN RETROSPECT, IT DOES LOOK the Americans want to establish in Iraq, LIKE HIS DECISION TO STAY OUT why are they doing it with the support of the king of Saudi Arabia?” He argues (OF IRAQ) WAS MORE NUANCED that he could have supported the Anglo- THAN APPEARED AT THE TIME British decision to invade Iraq, while de- AND DRIVEN BY THE BELIEF THAT clining to provide troops, but that CANADA IS A “KEEPER OF would have been “politically and intel- PEACE THROUGH MULTILATERAL lectually dishonest.” In retrospect, it INSTITUTIONS.” does look like his decision to stay out was more nuanced than appeared at the time and driven by the belief that (note the page counts for comparison) Canada is a “keeper of peace through by Mr. Mulroney and Mr. Campbell, this multilateral institutions.” is a more modest undertaking. There is Given the frustrations that all three none of the grandstanding and its low- leaders faced in their final days in office, key tone is perhaps reflective of the au- one wonders why the political instincts thor himself. Mr. Chrétien claims that he that previously served them so well de- “deliberately chose to undersell and serted them when it came to managing a outperform rather than oversell and un- smooth transition. The successors to ers for his job within his own party. It derperform.” He also offers insight into both of the Canadians went down in was business as usual within govern- his troubled relationship with his suc- flames. In Britain, Mr. Brown has al- ment after his exit and his own legacy cessor, Paul Martin, almost from the get- ready had to back out of a desire to earn appeared to be in question until a new go in 1993. The vibes were never good his own independent mandate. The brand of conservatives assumed power and “Paul Martin, Jr.” never reconciled moral: Voters don’t take kindly to pre- in early 2006. to working under the “little guy” from tenders who try to undermine prime Shawinigan. ministers from within. Jean Chrétien, My Years as Prime Minister, Typical of Mr. Chrétien’s style was Alfred A. Knopf, 2007, 407 pages this question he posed to Mr. Blair in George Abraham is Diplomat’s contribut- Compared to the sprawling diaries September 2002: “If it’s democracy that ing editor.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 25 DELIGHTS|RESIDENCES

A touch of Turkey in Rockcliffe

By Margo Roston DYANNE WILSON The home of Turkish Ambassador Aydemir Erman and his wife Gulen has undergone extensive renovation but architects preserved its original character.

told Ambassador Aydemir Erman and brick mansion in 1999 as part of a prop- from the back to the front of the building, his wife Gulen that I had tasted Turk- erty exchange for the Canadian chancery the other a multi-purpose hall that trans- Iish coffee before, but they still had to in Ankara. Then the Turks got to work on forms from a dining room that serves coach me in the niceties of their country’s plans to expand the residence on the some 80 people for lunch into a confer- national drink. First, the coffee came with 4,500-square-metre lot. The home itself is ence room that can accommodate more a glass of water to cleanse the palate. The now one-third larger, with 28 rooms and than 100 people. Ermans also suggested drinking it with a 11 bathrooms. It’s a home built for entertaining. The little sugar. Along with a delicious piece The Ermans, who arrived in Ottawa in couple holds large dinner parties once or of lemon and almond cake, all served in 2002, were intimately involved with the twice a month. They also have weekly the elegant reception room at their Rock- renovation, living in rented Rockcliffe luncheons and frequent cocktail parties, cliffe residence, the morning coffee break digs until 2005. The embassy, working all handled by a full-time staff of five and was delightful. with architect Barry Hobin (among oth- any extra help required for the event. The The renovated Georgian-Revival brick ers), and with input from Rockcliffe Vil- cook and his wife live in one of the two home is set on upscale Crescent Road and lage experts, worked out a plan to staff apartments in the house. was built in 1928 and designed by maintain the integrity of the property. When the Ermans want to entertain Toronto architect Ferdinand Marani for Amongst other features were specially more intimately, there is the original din- Hugh McBean Hughson, son of lumber made bricks designed to seamlessly ing room which seats 14, and a den; both baron W.C. Hughson. At one time, the match the original brick façade. facing the courtyard and the sloping lawn. property of the New Zealand govern- The interior now has two large wings, “People like to come and see the resi- ment, the Turkish government bought the one a large reception room that extends dence,” says the ambassador, including

26 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 RESIDENCES |DELIGHTS DYANNE WILSON

Clockwise from left: Mr. and Mrs. Erman relax with their long-haired Dachshund named Coffee. The dining room can seat as many as 80 people. Turkish accents such as this plate, and these bottles, appear throughout the home.

close to 1,000 people who attend the palaces and given as gifts by the sultan. way tiles come from Iznik, a village that country’s Oct. 29 national day reception. The cream-coloured walls work as a has been producing tiles and tableware Although they serve a variety of food, background for the carpets, art works and since the second Ottoman Empire. Mrs. Erman usually offers Turkish spe- the Turkish porcelain and silver pieces When it’s time for privacy, the Ermans cialties, including eggplant with chicken that dot the house. Included in the large retreat to an apartment upstairs with a or fish. collection of paintings are two photo- kitchenette and even a small laundry. She shopped in Turkey for many of the graphs by Ottawa artist and photogra- The couple will be leaving Ottawa home’s treasures. Most of the hand-wo- pher Jennifer Dickson, part of a series of sometime soon, but with the satisfaction ven wool and silk carpets that cover the Turkish scenes. that the residence “functions just as we hardwood floors come from Hereke, a There are also handmade Kutahya ce- planned,” says the ambassador. town near Istanbul. Their designs derive ramic plates, decorated with red tulips, a from 19th-century versions made for reminder of their origins in Turkey. Entry- Margo Roston is an Ottawa writer.

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DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 27 DELIGHTS|ENTERTAINING

How to win bonus points with your dinner guests

hen it comes to planning the herb-garlic butter; final results to be comfortably pre- main course, deciding on the cooked vegetables dictable. Regardless of the occasion (a Wprincipal element is the easy (virtually of any kind) family meal or when entertaining), I part of the equation. It’s more challeng- drizzled with a good strive for confidence which comes with ing to decide on the accompaniments to quality sesame oil or those predictable results. Of course, sub- be served with whatever you’ve chosen glazed with herb-gar- stitutions and modifications can be as the main attraction. Accompani- lic butter. For tricks made, but only after you establish a crit- ments should not only be appropriate, that always impress, ical point of reference. but they should enhance the main ele- MARGARET use mini-vegetables Accompaniments must be given the ment, adding a touch of dazzle and fi- DICKENSON of various colours attention they deserve. The enticement nesse to the entire plate. The decision is and shapes, roasted vegetables, mush- offered by a main course plate is influ- indeed strategic. rooms of all kinds, sprigs as well as lit- enced by how, where and in what quan- Regular standbys may be convenient tle bouquets of fresh herbs, drizzles of tity elements are presented to the diner. and perfectly acceptable, but they won’t sauces, edible flowers and clusters of A comparison could be made to that of necessarily generate a spark of appreci- fresh red currants. an artist’s canvas; however, avoid filling ation. Accompaniments do offer an op- When ethnic recipes are on the menu, all the space. Plates that breath are defi- portunity for the host to collect “bonus they will always seem more authentic nitely more inviting. That way, guests points,” as I like to say. Guests notice when served with appropriate side can better appreciate and savour each and are excited to see something beyond dishes (for example, rice with most ori- component. the ordinary – yet tasty – on their plates. ental food; Korean mixed vegetables I actually like to surprise my guests by and noodles with bulgogi). Margaret Dickenson is author of the inter- presenting them with an unknown ex- The choice of accompaniments, their national award-winning cookbook Mar- perience. colour, size, shape, texture and flavour garet’s Table - Easy Cooking & Inspiring Quinoa and buckwheat groats usu- all deserve careful consideration. It may Entertaining and is creator and host of Mar- ally do the trick at our table. These take time and some experimenting be- garet’s Entertaining Minutes on Rogers TV. products are readily available at health- fore you achieve success so take a photo See www.margaretssenseofoccasion.com food stores, can be cooked in advance, or at least do a sketch to record your cre- for more. refrigerated for up to three days or ation, and attach it to the recipe for fu- stored frozen for months. Either of these ture reference. This way you avoid DELUXE SWEET POTATO CREAM cooked items is delicious when tossed reinventing the wheel when you forget Makes 2 1/3 cups or 575 mL (4 servings) with sesame oil, black sesame seeds, salt how you did something. 2 lbs (900 g) sweet potatoes and crushed black peppercorns. Or, for a When I’m developing a recipe, I don’t 3 tbsp (45 mL) butter winning recipe, toss one or the other consider it completed until the plating 3 tbsp (45 mL) finely chopped fresh chives with currants, chopped hazelnuts and or "food styling" has been done. I want 1 1/2 tsp (8 mL) peeled and grated fresh chives, then drizzle with a mustard-herb vinaigrette before adding salt, crushed black peppercorns and a pinch of sugar. Both are served at room temperature which is a great advantage when you’re rushing to assemble a dinner party of individual plates. The subtle nutty flavour of these dishes works well with poultry, lamb, pork and game. Delightful combinations or pilafs of wild or white rice excite the palate while the sticky nature of sushi rice lends itself to the fabrication of enticing stacks. A careful balance of herbs, spices and other ingredients can elevate "sweet" or regu- lar mashed potatoes to a gourmet level. Yes, it is often a matter of taking the or- dinary and making it extraordinary. My repertoire of accompaniments also includes cooked vermicelli noodles tossed with a slightly sweet and spicy LARRY DICKENSON hot sauce; pasta tossed with pesto or Sweet potato cream adorns a plate of lamb

28 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 ENTERTAINING|DELIGHTS

ginger root 1/2 tsp (3 mL) finely chopped fresh garlic 2 tsp (10 mL) Dijon mustard 1/2 tsp (3 mL) raspberry vinegar (or red wine vinegar) To taste salt 1/4 tsp (1 mL) (Indonesian) hot chili paste (optional)

1. Scrub sweet potatoes clean; with tines of fork, prick skins in several places. 2. Bake until soft. As soon as potatoes are cool enough to handle, remove and discard skins. 3. While sweet potatoes are still warm, mash flesh (or press through a "ricer") to form a smooth purée. (Note: If the "mashed" purée is fibrous, using a heavy rubber spatula, rub the purée through a coarse mesh sieve.) 4. In a small skillet over medium heat, melt butter. Add chives, ginger and garlic; cook until chives soften slightly. 5. Stir chive mixture into sweet potato purée. Add Dijon mustard, vinegar, salt and if desired, hot chili paste; blend well with a fork/rubber spatula/spoon. (Note: Do not use a blender as the potato mixture may become too soft and/or gummy.) 6. Serve warm.

ORIENTAL MANGO RICE Makes 4 2/3 cups or more than 1 litre (6 to 8 servings) 4 cups (1 litre) cooked long grain rice 1 tsp (5 mL) finely chopped fresh garlic 1/3 cup (80 mL) chopped fresh coriander leaves 3 tbsp (45 mL) Honey Mustard Mayonnaise* 2 to 3 tbsp (30 to 45 mL) sesame oil To taste salt 1 1/3 cups (325 mL) diced (1/3 inch or 0.8 cm) fresh mango (flesh only) ets 1/4 cup (60 mL) toasted slivered almonds l

1. Toss together rice (hot, cold or at room a temperature) and garlic. Add coriander iEvn leaves and toss again. 2. Whisk together Honey Mustard Spec Mayonnaise and sesame oil; drizzle over rice mixture and toss. 3. Fold in mango. If necessary, season with salt to taste. 4. Just before serving, fold in almonds.

* To make 1/2 cup (125 mL) of Honey Mustard Mayonnaise, whisk together 1/2 cup (125 mL) of mayonnaise, 2 tsp (10 mL) of Dijon mustard, 1 tbsp (15 mL) of liquid honey and a pinch of crushed black peppercorns. Store this mayonnaise www.partytimerental.ca refrigerated for up to a couple of months. 613.745.9400

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 29 DELIGHTS|HISTORICA

William Neilson Hall’s ’conspicuous bravery‘

By Laura Neilson Bonikowsky

he Victoria Cross is awarded “for journey, dragging at it, making little impact. The guns had to most conspicuous bravery or some eight ships’ guns be closer. Tdaring or pre-eminent act of valour with which to re- The sailors dragged the guns up, sus- or self-sacrifice or extreme devotion to claim the gar- taining heavy casualties. The wall was duty in the presence of the enemy." The risons. loopholed in such a way that the gunners dry words of the inscription don’t live up Each gun had a were safe from fire at certain points, but to the stories of courage behind the Com- team of six men; each man was numbered, every shot from the big guns recoiled them monwealth's highest decoration for brav- beginning with the officer in charge. If one back into the fire zone. Soon only Seaman ery. man were killed or wounded, the next as- Hall and one wounded officer were still Able Seaman William Neilson Hall, the sumed his position, and so on. The system standing. Seaman Hall, now the gun’s son of escaped slaves, was the first Cana- avoided confusion and kept the gun firing. Number One, kept loading and firing, dian naval recipient, the first black and the In Cawnpore, the commander, Major- dragging it back after every recoil, over first Nova Scotian to win the VC. General Sir Hugh Wheeler, confident in and over. Finally, the wall was breeched He served in the Far East aboard the the loyalty of his Sepoy troops, left the sufficiently to allow some Highlanders to HMS Shannon in June 1857 when the Se- post lightly guarded by British soldiers. open the gate. poys of the Indian Army mutinied, their On June 5, his confidence was betrayed For his heroic actions that Nov. 16, 1857, insurrection fuelled by resentment against when the Cawnpore 2nd Cavalry mu- Able Seaman Hall was awarded the Victo- the colonizing British and sparked by ru- tinied. The Sepoys, with greater numbers, ria Cross. He served in the Royal Navy un- mours that their Enfield rifle cartridges quickly gained the advantage. til 1876, then retired in Horton Bluff, N.S., were greased with the fat of pigs and The British arrived too late; the Sepoys where he lived until his death in 1904. cows. Contact with them would destroy had killed every white person, believing it the Mohammedan's purity and the Hindu would deter the British from retaking the Laura Neilson Bonikowsky is the associ- caste. city. The Shannon group was joined at ate editor of The Canadian Encyclopedia. British warships were dispatched to In- Cawnpore by Lt. Gen. Sir Colin Campbell dia, the Shannon to Calcutta with orders to and his Highlanders. The two groups send men overland to Cawnpore, an im- turned toward Lucknow, 72 treacherous 613-596-0460 portant post on the Ganges River, and kilometres away, where the British had re- Ask for Elie or Khalil [email protected] Lucknow, the capital of Oudh state. The treated to the residency (the British garri- “Shannon Brigade" embarked Sept. 2. It son). BAYSHORE SHOPPING CENTRE suffered many losses during the arduous The Lucknow garrison, under Chief Commissioner Sir Henry Lawrence, was PRINTWELL can SAVE you up to 70% by surrounded by rebels. The British force refilling your Black & Color Ink Cartridges was ready for battle and put up a good backed by 100% satisfaction guarantee. We also sell Original & Remanufactured Ink and fight, but held down by the Sepoys, with Laser Toner cartridges at very low prices. the city’s narrow streets under rebel con- trol, escape was impossible. Corporate Deals Available As the relief columns advanced, the Se- poys' attacks intensified. The relief force Wanna pay even less?? Ask about the reached Lucknow in November. Sir Camp- Refill-Cards so you can refill ANY bell had to take the outer walls, then fight cartridge for as low as $6.49, & Get through the streets to reach the garrison. ONE FREE Refill when buying any He launched the main attack from the Refill-Card southeast, where jungle disrupted the mu- tineers' line. After successfully advancing ! into the city, a detachment disengaged ver Deli from the main force and moved west. We On Lucknow’s west side stood a huge mosque, the Shah Najaf. As the British ad- SPECIAL TO EMBASSY STAFF: Just mention this ad to get this special discount vanced, a deadly hail of musket balls and REFILL YOUR INK CARTRIDGES AND SAVE! grenades poured from the mosque. The $ 99 $ 99 British had to take the mosque, but with a 9. 12. six-metre wall blocking them and without EPSON, CANON or HP, LEXMARK or scaling ladders, they first had to breech the BROTHER Refill* DELL Refill* wall. They dragged the guns to within 350 * With this coupon only. Limited to available models. Cannot be combined with any other offer. One coupon per customer. Appli-

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4. THIS PAGE: 1. Israeli Ambassador Alan Baker and his wife, Dalia, far left and right, hosted a recep- tion at their Rockcliffe home Nov. 21. It featured Israeli wines and helped raise awareness of HIPPY, which stands for Home Instruction for Parents of Preschool Youngsters. The program, originated in Israel, is now in nine countries and helps 22,000 families by teaching parents to be their child’s first teacher. Organizers hope to bring it to Ottawa. Also shown, from left, U.S. Ambassador David Wilkins, Judith Maxwell, friend of HIPPY, and Susan Wilkins. (Photo: Andrew Geddes) • 2. Portuguese Ambas- sador Joao Silveira Carvalho and José Conde Rodrigues, Portugal’s secretary of state for justice, look over a program for a concert held Dec. 2 at the University of Ottawa. Portugal handed over the pres- idency of the European Union to Slovenia in 2008. (Photo: Bob Diotte) • 3. The Slavic diplomatic hos- pitality group visited Jason Duval’s Sussex Studio Nov. 28. From left: Dimce Isailovski, Macedonian painter and keynote speaker, Kati Kangro-Hallik (Estonia), Mr. Duval, Dalia Baker, Celetina Skeljo (Croatia). (Photo: Ulle Baum) • 4. Former deputy minister of Foreign Affairs Peter Harder received the Order Of San Carlos, grand officer rank, from Colombian Ambassador Jaime Giron Duarte Oct. 24. Mr. Harder retired from Foreign Affairs last year and now works at Fraser Milner Casgrain LLP. (Photo: Danilo Velasquez)

32 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 ENVOY’S ALBUM|DELIGHTS

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7. THIS PAGE: 1. The British Council sent three Canadian students to the United Nations climate-change conference in Bali, Indonesia. From left, Katrina Genuis of Edmonton, John Constantine of Concep- tion Bay South, Nfld., Azra Shivji of Toronto, with Rebecca Zalatan, of the British Council. (Photo: British Council) • 2. David Lee, representative of the Taipei Economic and Cultural Office, hosted a Pink Tea fundraiser Nov. 7 for Breast Cancer Action Ottawa. Shown: Yumiko Tsunakawa and Hon- duran Ambassador Beatriz Valle. • 3. Local women modelled at the Pink Tea event. (Photos: Frank Scheme) • 4. MP Bill Blaikie was named parliamentarian of the year at Maclean’s second-annual awards evening at the Chateau Laurier Nov. 21. (Photo: Brigitte Bouvier) • 5. Jean-Pierre Blackburn (middle), Minister of Labour, with U.S. Secretary of Labor Elaine L. Chao and Michael Wilson, Canada’s Ambassador to the U.S. They discussed common international issues, prior to Mr. Blackburn’s visit to South America. (Photo: Neshan Naltchayan) • 6. Six non-resident ambassadors presented credentials Oct. 30. Shown: Phiane Philakone, ambassador of Laos, with Gov. Gen. Michaelle Jean. (Photo: Rideau Hall) • 7. A Finnish concert held Nov. 7 featured accordionist Johanna Juhola and violinist Pekka Ku- usisto. They’re shown (from left) with Raija Patokallio, Finnish ambassador Pasi Patokallio, and Swe- den’s ambassador to Canada, Ingrid Iremark. (Photo: Bob Diotte)

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 33 DELIGHTS|WINE

How to navigate the LCBO

often get asked by friends and guests ($14.95) and Taylor cific wine from a past release, go to at the restaurant which wines they Fladgate 10-Year www.lcbo.com and do a search. They Ishould buy from the Liquor Control Old Tawny Port have a great system where they tell you Board of Ontario. My answer is usually ($33.95). which stores have how many bottles. the same… I don’t know. The truth is, I Next is where Just be aware, though, that if the data- don’t spend much time in the LCBO, we get into asking base reads less than six bottles, it might and when I do, I ask for lots of help to for help: Vintages be gone by the time you get there. get the best stuff on the shelves. But products. These are Meanwhile, if the wine you want is in here is a bit of a primer that will help STEPHEN BECKTA wines that get re- Toronto, for example, get to know your PHOTO: PAUL COUVRETTE you understand our large, bureaucratic leased every two local product consultant and he or she alcohol-selling institution that has a vir- weeks, in various quantities and quali- might be willing to ship them up to tual monopoly on all of our vinous joy. ties. Many sought-after products sell out your store for you. Know the layers: All LCBO stores within minutes in a display that re- At the restaurant, we get most of our have a selection of “General List” prod- minds one of Russian bread lines. Oth- wines from small import companies that ucts (for example, Yellowtail Shiraz, ers languish on the shelves until they deal in the consignment program under Masi Valpolicella and Soave Bolla) are put on sale (very rare). I encourage the LCBO umbrella. I buy from them be- alongside the regular selection of vodka, you to ask your product consultant cause there are reordering possibilities gin and rum. For the most part, the (every Vintages outlet has at least one, if and they offer direct delivery, but wines that are on these shelves are made not five), who will actually have tasted mostly because I can taste the wines be- in huge quantities by large multi-nation- most of the wines on the releases, for fore buying them. Unfortunately, this als and are not the most exciting prod- their advice. doesn’t work as well for consumers ucts on offer in the province. But when In some cases, especially when it looking to stock their cellars at home or you are up at your cottage and need a comes to very expensive wines, you will to buy for that special dinner party that couple of bottles to get you by for the need to rely on third party reviews, vin- they are throwing. This is because these weekend, the rural store will likely have tage charts and what my old boss refers consignment wines come only by the some standbys from this list. Mine are to as “pedigree.” These are wines from case and are rarely shown to the public Clancy’s Red from Peter Lehmann certain wineries that are, year and year to taste before buying. A few companies (Barossa Valley, Australia $18.15), White- out, consistently great. Many of these are starting to realize that the public, cliff Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, wines are released through the “Classics beyond restaurants, are great customers New Zealand $14.95) and Henry of Pel- Catalogue” four times per year and are and now have portfolio tastings once ham Riesling Reserve (Niagara, $14.95). usually really special, but they almost al- a year. For example, Hobbs and Co. The next rung up are “Vintages Essen- ways come with a hefty, special-occasion (www.hobbswines.com) and The Vine tials.” These wines are usually very price point to match their uniqueness. (www.robgroh.com) both do it. solid, well-made wines that are continu- The way to find out about upcoming ously available in all stores with a “Vin- Vintages and Classics releases, as well Happy shopping! tages Corner” (a section devoted to the as smaller, “exclusive” product Cheers! Vintages program of less-regular launches, is to sign up to Vmail at brands). Some of my favourites are the https://www.vintageslatest.com/Regis- Stephen Beckta is owner and sommelier Perrin Reserve Cotes-du-Rhone Red ter.jsp. If you want to track down a spe- of Beckta dining & wine.

34 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 AFGHANISTAN AUSTRIA Embassy of the Republic of Benin CAMEROON His Ex. Omar Samad His Ex. Otto Ditz 58 Glebe Avenue Mr. Martin Agbor Mbeng Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Embassy of the Republic of Austria Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2C3 Acting High Commissioner Afghanistan 445 Wilbrod Street TEL 233-4429 FAX 233-8952 High Commission for the Republic 240 Argyle Street Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6M7 [email protected] of Cameroon Ottawa, Ontario K2P 1B9 TEL 789-1444 FAX 789-3431 170 Clemow Avenue TEL 563-4223 FAX 563-4962 [email protected] BOLIVIA Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2B4 [email protected] His Ex. Edgar Torrez Mosqueira TEL 236-1522 FAX 236-3885 www.afghanemb-canada.net AZERBAIJAN Embassy of the Republic of Bolivia Mr. Farid Shafiyev 130 Albert Street, Suite 416 CHILE CONTACTS Chargé d’Affaires Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 His Ex. Eugenio Ortega Riquelme His Ex. Besnik Konci Embassy of the Republic of Azerbaijan TEL 236-5730 FAX 236-8237 Embassy of the Republic of Chile Embassy of the Republic of Albania 275 Slater Street, Suite 904-C [email protected] 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1413 130 Albert Street, Suite 302 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H9 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 TEL 288-0497 FAX 230-8089 BOSNIA-HERZEGOVINA TEL 235-9940 FAX 235-1176 TEL 236-4114 FAX 236-0804 His Ex. Milenko Misic [email protected] [email protected] BAHAMAS Embassy of Bosnia and Herzegovina www.chile.ca His Ex. Philip P. Smith 130 Albert Street, Suite 805 ALGERIA High Commission for The Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 CHINA His Ex. Smail Benamara Commonwealth of The Bahamas TEL 236-0028 FAX 236-1139 His Ex. Lu Shumin Embassy of the People’s Democratic 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1313 [email protected] Embassy of the People’s Republic of Republic of Algeria Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 www.bhembassy.ca China 500 Wilbrod Street TEL. 232-1724 FAX 232-0097 515 St. Patrick Street Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6N2 [email protected] BRAZIL Ottawa, Ontario K1N 5H3 TEL 789-8505 FAX 789-1406 His Ex. Valdemar Carneiro Leäo TEL. 789-3434 FAX 789-1911 www.embassyalgeria.ca/eng.htm BANGLADESH Embassy of the Federative Republic www.chinaembassycanada.org Mr. Syed Masud Mahmood of Brazil DIPLOMATIC ANGOLA Khundoker 450 Wilbrod Street COLOMBIA His Ex. Miguel Maria N. Puna Acting High Commissioner Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6M8 His Ex. Jaime Giron Duarte Embassy of the Republic of Angola High Commission for the People’s TEL 237-1090 FAX 237-6144 Embassy of the Republic of Colombia 189 Laurier Avenue East Republic of Bangladesh [email protected] 360 Albert Street, Suite 1002 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6P1 275 Bank Street, Suite 302 Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7 TEL 234-1152 FAX 234-1179 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 2L6 BRUNEI DARUSSALAM TEL 230-3760 FAX 230-4416 [email protected] TEL 236-0138 FAX 567-3213 Mr. Faizal Bahrin Haji Bakri [email protected] www.embangola-can.org [email protected] Acting High Commissioner www.embajadacolombia.ca www.bdhc.org 395 Laurier Avenue East ARGENTINA Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6R4 CONGO (ZAIRE) His Ex. Arturo Bothamley BARBADOS TEL 234-5656 FAX 234-4397 Ms. Louise Nzanga Ramazani Embassy of the Argentine Republic His Ex. Glyne Samuel Murray [email protected] Chargé d’Affaires 81 Metcalfe Street 7th Floor High Commission for Barbados Embassy of the Democratic Republic Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6K7 55 Metcalfe St. #470 BULGARIA of the Congo TEL 236-2351 FAX 235-2659 Ottawa, Ontario, K1P 6L5 His Ex. Evgueni Stoytchev 18 Range Road [email protected] TEL 236-9517 FAX 230-4362 Embassy of the Republic of Bulgaria Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J3 www.argentina-canada.net [email protected] 325 Stewart Street TEL 230-6391 FAX 230-1945 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6K5 TEL 789-3215 FAX 789-3524 COSTA RICA Mr. Arman Akopian Her Ex. Nina Mazai Her Ex. Emilia Maria Alvarez Chargé d’Affaires Embassy of the Republic of Belarus BURKINA FASO Navarro Embassy of the Republic of Armenia 130 Albert Street, Suite 600 Her Ex. Juliette Bonkoungou Embassy of the Republic of Costa Rica 7 Delaware Avenue Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Embassy of Burkina Faso 325 Dalhousie Street, Suite 407 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0Z2 TEL 233-9994 FAX 233-8500 48 Range Road Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7G2 TEL 234-3710 FAX 234-3444 [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4 TEL. 562-2855 FAX 562-2582 [email protected] TEL 238-4796 FAX 238-3812 [email protected] www.armembassycanada.ca BELGIUM [email protected] www.costaricaembassy.com His Ex. Jean Lint www.ambaburkina-canada.org AUSTRALIA Embassy of Belgium CÔTE D’IVOIRE His Ex. William Fisher 360 Albert Street, Suite 820 BURUNDI Her Ex. Dienebou Kaba Australian High Commission Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7 Her Ex. Appolonie Simbizi Embassy of the Republic of 50 O’Connor, Suite 710 TEL 236-7267 FAX 236-7882 Embassy of the Republic of Burundi Côte d’Ivoire Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 [email protected] 325 Dalhousie Street, Suite 815 9 Marlborough Avenue TEL 236-0841 FAX 236-4376 www.diplomatie.be/ottawa Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7G2 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8E6 www.canada.embassy.gov.au TEL 789-0414 FAX 789-9537 TEL. 236-9919 FAX 563-8287 BENIN [email protected] [email protected] Mrs. Awahou Labouda http://ambabucanada.le-site.info www.ambaci-ottawa.org Chargé d’Affaires

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES 35 CROATIA ETHIOPIA GUINEA TEL. 235-4726 FAX 232-5712 Her Ex. Vesela Mrden Kora´c His Ex. Getachew Hailemariam Mrs. Hawa Diakité [email protected] Embassy of the Republic of Croatia Embassy of the Federal Democratic Counsellor & Chargé d’Affaires www.salamiran.org 229 Chapel Street Republic of Ethiopia Embassy of the Republic of Guinea Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7Y6 151 Slater Street, Suite 210 483 Wilbrod Street IRAQ TEL. 562-7820 FAX 562-7821 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5P2 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6N1 His Ex. Howar M. Ziad [email protected] TEL. 235-6637 FAX 235-4638 TEL. 789-8444 FAX 789-7560 Embassy of the Republic of Iraq www.croatiaemb.net [email protected] [email protected] 215 McLeod Street www.ethiopia.ottawa.on.ca Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0Z8

CONTACTS CUBA GUYANA TEL. 236-9177 FAX 236-9641 His Ex. Ernesto Antonio Senti EUROPEAN UNION His Ex. Rajnarine Singh [email protected] Embassy of the Republic of Cuba His. Ex. Dorian Prince High Commission for the Republic www.iraqembassy.ca 388 Main Street Delegation of the European of Guyana Ottawa, Ontario K1S 1E3 Commission to Canada 151 Slater Street, Suite 309 IRELAND TEL. 563-0141 FAX 563-0068 45 O’Connor Street, Suite 1900 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 His Ex. Declan Kelly [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1A4 TEL. 235-7249 FAX 235-1447 Embassy of Ireland www.embacuba.ca TEL. 238-6464 FAX 238-5191 130 Albert Street, Suite 1105 [email protected] HAITI Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 CZECH REPUBLIC www.delcan.ec.europa.eu Ms. Marie Nathalie Menos-Gissel TEL. 233-6281 FAX 233-5835 His Ex. Pavel Vosalik Chargé d’Affaires [email protected] Embassy of the Czech Republic FINLAND Embassy of the Republic of Haiti 251 Cooper Street His Ex. Pasi Mikael Patokallio 130 Albert Street, Suite 1409 ISRAEL Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0G2 Embassy of the Republic of Finland Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5P2 His Ex. Alan Baker TEL. 562-3875 FAX 562-3878 55 Metcalfe Street, Suite 850 TEL. 238-1628 FAX 238-2986 Embassy of Israel [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L5 [email protected] 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1005 TEL. 288-2233 FAX 288-2244 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 DIPLOMATIC DIPLOMATIC DENMARK [email protected] HOLY SEE TEL. 567-6450 FAX 567-9878 His Ex. Poul Erik Dam Kristensen His Ex. The Most Rev. Luigi Ventura [email protected] Royal Danish Embassy FRANCE Apostolic Nunciature www.embassyofIsreal.ca 47 Clarence Street, Suite 450 His Ex. Daniel Jouanneau 724 Manor Avenue Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9K1 Embassy of France Ottawa, Ontario K1M 0E3 ITALY TEL. 562-1811 FAX 562-1812 42 Sussex Drive TEL. 746-4914 FAX 746-4786 His Ex. Gabriele Sardo [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1M 2C9 Embassy of the Italian Republic www.ambottawa.um.dk TEL. 789-1795 FAX 562-3704 HONDURAS 275 Slater Street, 21st Floor www.ambafrance-ca.org Her Ex. Beatriz Valle Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H9 DOMINICAN REPUBLIC Embassy of the Republic of TEL. 232-2401 FAX 233-1484 His Ex. Luis Eladio Arias Nunez GABON Honduras [email protected] Ambassador His Ex. Joseph Obiang Ndoutoume 151 Slater Street, Suite 805 www.italyincanada.com Embassy of the Dominican Republic Embassy of the Gabonese Republic Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 130 Albert Street, Suite 418 4 Range Road, P.O. Box 368 TEL. 233-8900 FAX 232-0193 JAMAICA Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J5 Her Ex. Evadne Coye TEL. 569-9893 FAX 569-8673 TEL. 232-5301 FAX 232-6916 HUNGARY Jamaican High Commission www.drembassy.org [email protected] His Ex. Pál Vastagh 275 Slater Street, Suite 800 Embassy of the Republic of Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H9 ECUADOR GERMANY Hungary TEL. 233-9311 FAX 233-0611 His Ex. Fernando Ribadeneira His Ex. Matthias Martin Höpfner 299 Waverley Street [email protected] Fernández-Salvador Embassy of the Federal Republic of Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0V9 Embassy of the Republic of Ecuador Germany TEL. 230-2717 FAX 230-7560 JAPAN 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 316 1 Waverley Street www.docuweb.ca/Hungary His Ex. Tsuneo Nishida Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0T8 Embassy of Japan TEL. 563-4286 FAX 235-5776 TEL. 232-1101 FAX 594-9330 ICELAND 255 Sussex Drive [email protected] His Ex. Markus Örn Antonsson Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9E6 EGYPT Embassy of Iceland TEL. 241-8541 FAX 241-2232 His Ex. Mahmoud F. El-Saeed GHANA 360 Albert Street, Suite 710 [email protected] Embassy of the Arab Republic of Egypt Her Ex. Margaret Ivy Amoakohene Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7 www.ca.emb-japan.go.jp 454 Laurier Avenue East High Commission for the Republic TEL. 482-1944 FAX 482-1945 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6R3 of Ghana [email protected] JORDAN TEL. 234-4931 FAX 234-4398 1 Clemow Avenue His Ex. Nabil Ali Barto [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2A9 INDIA Embassy of the Hashemite Kingdom www.mfa.gov.eg TEL. 236-0871 FAX 236-0874 His Ex. Rajamani Lakshmi Narayan of Jordan [email protected] High Commission for the Republic 100 Bronson Avenue, Suite 701 EL SALVADOR www.ghc-ca.com of India Ottawa, Ontario K1R 6G8 His Ex. Mauricio Rosales Rivera 10 Springfield Road TEL. 238-8090 FAX 232-3341 Embassy of the Republic of El Salvador GREECE Ottawa, Ontario K1M 1C9 209 Kent Street His. Ex. Nikolaos Matsis TEL. 744-3751 FAX 744-0913 KENYA Ottawa, Ontario K2P 1Z8 Embassy of the Hellenic Republic [email protected] Her Ex. Judith Mbula Bahemuka TEL. 238-2939 FAX 238-6940 80 MacLaren Street, Suite 76 www.hciottawa.ca High Commission for the Republic [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0K6 of Kenya TEL. 238-6271 FAX 238-5676 INDONESIA 415 Laurier Avenue East ERITREA [email protected] His Ex. Djoko Hardono Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6R4 His Ex. Ahferom Berhane www.greekembassy.ca Embassy of the Republic of TEL. 563-1773 FAX 233-6599 Embassy of the State of Eritrea Indonesia [email protected] 75 Albert Street, Suite 610 GUATEMALA 55 Parkdale Avenue www.kenyahighcommission.ca Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5E7 His Ex. Manuel Estuardo Roldán Ottawa, Ontario K1Y 1E5 TEL. 234-3989 FAX 234-6213 Embassy of the Republic of TEL. 724-1100 FAX 724-1105 KOREA, REPUBLIC Guatemala [email protected] His Ex. Soo-dong Kim ESTONIA 130 Albert Street, Suite 1010 www.indonesia-ottawa.org Embassy of the Republic of Korea Rasmus Lumi Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 150 Boteler Street Chargé d’Affaires TEL. 233-7237 FAX 233-0135 IRAN Ottawa, Ontario K1N 5A6 Embassy of the Republic of Estonia [email protected] Seyed Mahdi Mohebi TEL. 244-5010 FAX 244-5034 260 Dalhousie Street, Suite 210 www.embaguate-canada.com Chargé d’Affaires www.emb-korea.ottawa.on.ca Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7E4 Embassy of the Islamic TEL. 789-4222 FAX 789-9555 Republic of Iran [email protected] 245 Metcalfe Street www.estemb.ca Ottawa, Ontario K2P 2K2

36 | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 KUWAIT [email protected] O/OF EASTERN CARIBBEAN ROMANIA His Ex. Musaed Rashed Al-Haroun www.ambamalicanada.org STATES Her Ex. Elena Stefoi Embassy of the State of Kuwait His Ex. Brendon Browne Embassy of Romania 333 Sussex Drive MEXICO High Commission for the Countries 655 Rideau Street Ottawa, Ontario, K1N 1J9 His Ex. Emilio Rafael Jose of the Organization of Eastern Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6A3 TEL. 780-9999 FAX 780-9905 Goicoechea Caribbean States TEL. 789-3709 FAX 789-4365 Embassy of the United Mexican 130 Albert Street, Suite 700 [email protected] LATVIA States Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 http://ottawa.mae.ro His Ex. Mar`gers Krams 45 O’Connor Street, Suite 1000 TEL. 236-8952 FAX 236-3042 Embassy of the Republic of Latvia Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1A4 [email protected] RUSSIA CONTACTS 350 Sparks Street, Suite 1200 TEL. 233-8988 FAX 235-9123 www.oecs.org/ottawa/index.html His Ex. Georgiy Mamedov Ottawa, Ontario, K1P 5G8 [email protected] Embassy of the Russian Federation TEL. 238-6014 FAX 238-7044 www.embamexcan.com PAKISTAN 285 Charlotte Street [email protected] His. Ex. Musa Javed Chohan Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8L5 www.ottawa.mfa.gov.lv MONGOLIA High Commission for the Islamic TEL. 235-4341 FAX 236-6342 His Ex. Gotov Dugerjav Republic of Pakistan [email protected] LEBANON Embassy of Mongolia 10 Range Road www.rusembcanada.mid.ru Mr. Massoud Maalouf 151 Slater Street, Suite 503 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J3 Chargé d’Affaires Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 TEL. 238-7881 FAX 238-7296 RWANDA Embassy of Lebanon TEL. 569-3830 FAX 569-3916 [email protected] Her Ex. Edda Mukabagwiza 640 Lyon Street [email protected] Embassy of the Republic of Rwanda Ottawa, Ontario K1S 3Z5 PALESTINE 153 Gilmour Street TEL. 236-5825 FAX 232-1609 MOROCCO Mr. Amin Abou-Hassira Ottawa, Ontario, K2P 0N8 [email protected] His Ex. Mohamed Tangi Head of the General Delegation Tel. 569-5424 Fax 569-5421 www.lebanonembassy.ca Embassy of the Kingdom of 45 Country Club Dr., [email protected] Morocco Ottawa, Ontario www.ambarwaottawa.ca DIPLOMATIC LESOTHO 38 Range Road K1V 9W1 Her Ex. Mots'eoa Senyane Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4 TEL: 736-0053 SAUDI ARABIA High Commission for the Kingdom TEL. 236-7391 FAX 236-6164 FAX: 736-0535 His Ex. Abdulaziz Bin Hussein Al- of Lesotho [email protected] Sowayegh 130 Albert Street, Suite 1820 Royal Embassy of Saudi Arabia Ottawa, ON K1P 5G4 Mr. Maung Maung PANAMA 201 Sussex Drive Canada Chargé d'Affaires Her Ex. Romy Vásquez de González Ottawa, ON K1N 1K6 TEL: 234-0770 FAX: 234-5665 Embassy of the Union of Myanmar Embassy of the Republic of Panama TEL 237-4100 FAX 237-0567 85 Range Road, Suite 902 130 Albert Street, Suite 300 LIBYA Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J6 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 SENEGAL His Ex. Ahmed Ali Jarrud TEL. 232-9990 FAX 232-6999 TEL. 236-7177 FAX 236-5775 His Excellency Issakha Mbacke Embassy of the Great Socialist [email protected] embassyof [email protected] Embassy of the Republic of Senegal People’s Libyan Arab Jamahiriya 57 Marlborough Avenue 81 Metcalfe Street, Suite 1000 NETHERLANDS PARAGUAY Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8E8 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6K7 His Ex. Karel de Beer His Ex. Juan E. Aguirre Martinez TEL. 238-6392 FAX 238-2695 TEL. 230-0919 FAX 230-0683 Embassy of the Kingdom of the Embassy of the Republic of [email protected] [email protected] Netherlands Paraguay 350 Albert Street, Suite 2020 151 Slater Street, Suite 501 SERBIA LITHUANIA Ottawa, Ontario K1R 1A4 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 His Ex. Du˘san Batakovi´c Embassy of the Republic of TEL. 237-5030 FAX 237-6471 TEL. 567-1283 FAX 567-1679 Embassy of the Republic of Serbia Lithuania [email protected] consularsection@embassyof- 17 Blackburn Avenue 130 Albert Street, Suite 204 paraguay.ca Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8A2 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 NEW ZEALAND TEL. 233-6289 FAX 233-7850 TEL. 567-5458 FAX 567-5315 Her Ex. Kate Lackey PERU [email protected] New Zealand High Commission His Ex. Guillermo Russo www.embscg.ca MACEDONIA (REPUBLIC OF) 99 Bank Street, Suite 727 Embassy of the Republic of Peru His Ex. Sasko Nasev Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6G3 130 Albert Street, Suite 1901 SLOVAK REPUBLIC Embassy of the Republic TEL. 238-5991 FAX 238-5707 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 His Ex. Stanislav Opiela of Macedonia [email protected] TEL. 238-1777 FAX 232-3062 Embassy of the Slovak Republic 130 Albert Street, Suite 1006 www.nzembassy.com/home.cfm?c=38 [email protected] 50 Rideau Terrace Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Ottawa, Ontario K1M 2A1 TEL. 234-3882 FAX 233-1852 NIGER PHILIPPINES TEL. 749-4442 FAX 749-4989 Her Ex. Nana Aicha Foumakoye His Ex. Jose S. Brillantes [email protected] MADAGASCAR Embassy of the Republic of the Embassy of the Republic of the www.ottawa.mfa.sk His. Ex. Simon Constant Horace Niger Philippines Embassy of the Republic of 38 Blackburn Avenue 130 Albert Street, Suite 606 SLOVENIA Madagascar Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8A3 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Ex. Tomaz Kunstelj 65 Macnabb Place, Rockcliffe Park TEL. 232-4291 FAX 230-9808 TEL. 233-1121 FAX 233-4165 Embassy of the Republic of Slovenia Ottawa, ON K1L 8J5 [email protected] 150 Metcalfe Street, Suite 2101 TEL: 567-0505 FAX 567-2882 NIGERIA Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1P1 [email protected] Mrs. Ifeoma Jacinte Akabogu- POLAND TEL. 565-5781 FAX 565-5783 www.madagascar-embassy.ca Chinwuba His Ex. Piotr Ogrodzinski [email protected] Acting High Commissioner Embassy of the Republic of Poland MALAYSIA High Commission for the Federal 443 Daly Avenue SOUTH AFRICA His Ex. Dennis Ignatius Republic of Nigeria Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6H3 His Ex. Abraham Sokhaya Nkomo High Commission for Malaysia 295 Metcalfe Street TEL. 789-0468 FAX 789-1218 High Commission for the Republic 60 Boteler Street Ottawa, Ontario K2P 1R9 [email protected] of South Africa Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8Y7 Tel. 236-0521 Fax 236-0529 15 Sussex Drive TEL. 241-5182 FAX 241-5214 PORTUGAL Ottawa, Ontario K1M 1M8 [email protected] NORWAY His Ex. Joao Pedro Silveira Carvalho TEL. 744-0330 FAX 741-1639 His Ex. Tor Berntin Naess Embassy of Portugal [email protected] MALI Embassy of the Kingdom of Norway 645 Island Park Drive www.southafrica-canada.ca His Ex. Mamadou Bandiougou 90 Sparks Street, Suite 532 Ottawa, Ontario K1Y 0B8 Diawara Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5B4 TEL. 729-0883 FAX 729-4236 Embassy of the Republic of Mali TEL. 238-6571 FAX 238-2765 embportugal@embportugal/ottawa.org 50 Goulburn Avenue [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8C8 www.emb-norway.ca TEL. 232-1501 FAX 232-7429

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES 37 SPAIN TAIPEI Economic & Cultural office TURKEY URUGUAY His Ex. Mariano Alonso-Burón David Tawei Lee, Representative His Ex. Aydemir Erman His Ex. Alväro M. Moerzinger Embassy of the Kingdom of Spain 45 O’Connor Street, Suite 1960 Embassy of the Republic of Turkey Embassy of the Eastern Republic of 74 Stanley Avenue Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1A4 197 Wurtemburg Street Uruguay Ottawa, Ontario K1M 1P4 TEL. 231-5080 FAX 231-7112 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8L9 130 Albert Street, Suite 1905 TEL. 747-2252 FAX 744-1224 [email protected] TEL. 789-4044 FAX 789-3442 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 [email protected] [email protected] TEL. 234-2727 FAX 233-4670 www.embaspain.ca TANZANIA His Ex. Peter Kallaghe UGANDA VENEZUELA

CONTACTS SRI LANKA High Commission for the United His Ex. George Marino Abola Jose Antonio Manlio Rodriguez de His Ex. W.J.S. Karunaratne Republic of Tanzania High Commission for the Republic la Sierra Llerandi High Commission for the 50 Range Road of Uganda Chargé d’Affaires Democratic Socialist Republic Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4 231 Cobourg Street Embassy of the Bolivarian Republic of Sri Lanka TEL. 232-1509 FAX 232-5184 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J2 of Venezuela 333 Laurier Avenue West, Suite 1204 [email protected] TEL. 789-7797 FAX 789-8909 32 Range Road Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1C1 www.tanzaniahighcommission.ca [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4 TEL. 233-8449 FAX 238-8448 www.ugandahighcommission.ca TEL. 235-5151 FAX 235-3205 www.srilankahcottawa.org THAILAND www.misionvenezuela.org His Ex. Snanchart Devahastin UKRAINE SUDAN The Royal Thai Embassy His. Ex. Ihor Ostash VIETNAM Her Ex. Dr. Faiza Hassan Taha 180 Island Park Drive Embassy of Ukraine His Excellency Duc Hung Nguyen Armousa Ottawa, Ontario K1Y 0A2 310 Somerset Street, West, Embassy of the Socialist Republic of Embassy of the Republic of the Sudan TEL. 722-4444 FAX 722-6624 Ottawa, Ontario, K2P 0J9 Vietnam 354 Stewart Street [email protected] Tel. 230-2961 Fax 230-2400 470 Wilbrod Street Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6K8 www.ukremb.ca Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6M8 TEL. 235-4000 FAX 235-6880 TOGO TEL. 236-0772 FAX 236-2704 DIPLOMATIC DIPLOMATIC His Ex. Bawoumondom Amelete UNITED ARAB EMIRATES SWEDEN Embassy of the Togolese Republic His Ex. Hassan Al-Suwaidi YEMEN Her Ex. Ingrid Maria Iremark 12 Range Road Embassy of the United Arab Emirates His Ex. Abdulla Abdulwali Nasher Embassy of Sweden Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J3 45 O’Connor Street, Suite 1800 Embassy of the Republic of Yemen 377 Dalhousie Street TEL. 238-5916 FAX 235-6425 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1A4 54 Chamberlain Avenue Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9N8 TEL. 565-7272 FAX 565-8007 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 1V9 TEL. 244-8200 FAX 241-2277 TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO [email protected] TEL. 729-6627 FAX 729-8915 [email protected] Mr. Anthony David Edghill www.uae-embassy.com www.yemenincanada.ca www.swedishembassy.ca Acting High Commissioner High Commission for the Republic ZAMBIA SWITZERLAND of Trinidad and Tobago His Ex. Anthony Cary His Ex. David Clifford Saviye His Ex. Werner Baumann 200 First Avenue, Third Level British High Commission High Commission for the Republic Embassy of Switzerland Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2G6 80 Elgin Street of Zambia 5 Marlborough Avenue TEL. 232-2418 FAX 232-4349 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5K7 151 Slater St., Suite 205 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8E6 [email protected] TEL. 237-1530 FAX 237-7980 Ottawa, Ontario TEL. 235-1837 FAX 563-1394 www.britainincanada.org K1B 5H3 [email protected] TUNISIA TEL: 232-4400 FAX: 232-4410 Mohamed Elloumi UNITED STATES OF AMERICA SYRIA Chargé d’Affaires His Ex. David Wilkins ZIMBABWE His Ex. Jamil Haidar Sakr Embassy of the Republic of Tunisia Embassy of the United States of Her Ex. Florence Zano Chideya Embassy of the Syrian Arab Republic 515 O’Connor Street America Embassy of the Republic of 151 Slater Street, Suite 1000 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 3P8 490 Sussex Drive Zimbabwe Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 TEL. 237-0330 FAX 237-7939 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 1G8 332 Somerset Street West TEL. 569-5556 FAX 569-3800 [email protected] TEL. 238-5335 FAX 688-3080 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0J9 www.syrianembassy.ca www.usembassycanada.gov TEL. 237-4388 FAX 563-8269

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DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 39 DIPLOMATIC TRAVEL Q A SPECIAL FEATURE

MALAYSIA – TRULY ASIA

This report by Malaysian High Commissioner Dennis Ignatius is the first in a series of travelogues that bring editorial and advertising content together as components of this new Destinations feature.

I have spent many wonderful days in Penang – on the beaches, cycling along the coast, hunting for antiques in Georgetown, exploring and photographing the many historic and cultural sites and savouring its rich BY DENNIS IGNATIUS fusion cuisine. No matter where you are from, you will feel right at home on the ne of the nice things about island of Penang. the foreign service is the many opportunities to visit Penang will host the 6th Club Crew O fascinating places. In my 36 M A B U L IS L A N D World Championships (dragon-boat years of foreign service, I racing) in 2008 and several Canadian have visited such sites as the Great Wall have always liked the sea. There’s teams will be participating. The event of China and seen the famous terra cotta something about the sea that I find offers a great opportunity for Canadians warriors of Xian. I have driven across soothing and restorative. Among my to visit Penang. the mighty Andes, gone sightseeing favourite getaways are the islands of around Lake Baikal in Siberia and hiked Penang, Langkawi, Sipadan and Mabul. Another favourite is Sipadan Island, a up Machu Picchu. I have walked along tiny oceanic island in the Sulu Sea. Ever the shores of Galapagos and watched Penang, the great Pearl of the Orient, is since Jacques Cousteau declared it “an huge sheets of ice falling off the face of rich in history and has long been a untouched piece of art” and raved about the Perito Moreno glacier on the fascinating fusion of East and West. the diversity of marine life around southern tip of Argentina. Founded in 1876 by Sir Francis Light, it Sipadan, it has been a major scuba As fascinating as all these places are, I was once defended by Arthur Wellesley destination. It’s rated as one of the top still hold dear some of my favourite (the future Duke of Wellington) and was dive destinations in the world alongside holiday places in Malaysia. I guess I a favoured destination for the likes of the Galapagos Islands and Truk in Somerset Maugham, Joseph Conrad, Micronesia. The World Wildlife Fund Rudyard Kipling and Noel Coward. also rated Sipadan as one of the world’s best coral areas. Today, Penang is one of Asia’s most attractive tourist destinations, known The island is actually the peak of a for its cultural and religious diversity, its massive undersea mountain range. The fusion cuisine and great beaches. rich marine life include barracudas, Penang is also known for its unique moral eels, the playful clownfish and temple architecture and old colonial hundreds of other species. Sea turtles buildings. Although Penang is a modern are so abundant that you run into them city, it has managed to retain its old all the time. At the “Hanging Gardens” charms. There are many competitively of Sipadan, the coral formations are a priced small hotels, scattered along the riot of spectacular colour. A visit to island’s beaches, that have great service Sipadan is always a great adventure and amenities. Some of the older ones, whether or not you love scuba diving. It like Golden Sands and Casurina, have is also one of the most tranquil places on developed their own following of earth. P E N A N G devoted international clients who return year after year.

40 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008 DIPLOMATIC TRAVEL Q A SPECIAL FEATURE

T H E BE A C H F R O N T AT BE R J A Y A LA N G K A W I

In order to preserve the marine prepared Asian and continental cuisine Langkawi is also full of activity and environment, accommodation is no and the experience of living on the there is always a festival or carnival longer allowed on Sipadan. Visitors can, water. The resort’s international staff are going on, including the “Le Tour de however, stay at Mabul Island which is very helpful in ensuring you make the Langkawi” (one of the best cycling races about 40 minutes away by boat. Mabul best of your stay and enjoy the marine outside Europe and the richest in Asia), island is a delight in itself. It is home to environment to the fullest. It is a little the Royal Langkawi Regatta (sailing), the Bajau Luat, the world’s only tribe of out of the way but it’s definitely worth the Wilderness Challenge Langkawi (an nomadic sea gypsies who spend their the time and effort it takes to get there. adventure race around the island lives on the water. The Sipadan Water involving kayaking, rail running, Langkawi, situated just where the swimming, ropes course, mountain Indian Ocean narrows into the Straits of biking, etc.) and Langkawi Mackerel Malacca, is another of my favourite Run (a fishing tournament taking destinations. The Langkawi archipelago, advantage of migration season of pelagic a cluster of 99 islands, is a place of fish, especially mackerel, passing legend and dense tropical forests. The Langkawi waters in November). In my main island has been carefully view, this is one of the best island developed into an international-class getaways there is. resort without losing its distinctive characteristics. One of the hotels on the Malaysia, the 16th largest trading nation island, the Datai, has been set right in in the world, is easily accessible and the rainforest with tree-top rooms and very visitor-friendly. Visitors from most idyllic chalets on the forest floor. Its countries do not require visas. It is beaches are among the most pristine in perhaps the most cosmopolitan country P A R A D I S E HO T E L IN the world. Though the hotel has world- in Asia and English is widely spoken. L A N G K A W I class service, replete with a range of There are amazing travel bargains traditional Asian spas, it is very private available for Canadians travelers. Village Resort is the place to stay. Built and secluded. It’s a great place to get Malaysia is truly Asia. on stilts and carefully laid out on an away and rest and recuperate. The existing reef, it offers splendid water Berjaya Beach & Spa Resort is another Dennis Ignatius is the high commissioner cottage accommodations, wonderfully- great hotel. for Malaysia.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 41

THE LAST WORD | DESTINATIONS

(continued from page 44) thatched roof. Screened “windows” let in light. The tents are furnished with fine teak – there’s a king-sized bed, wingback chair and a comfy day-bed on the porch for lazy afternoons with a book. The washroom in the tent is separated by a canvas wall. The shower is outside, sur- rounded by an arched bamboo wall. Showering in the open air is an unex- pected treat. Each day, campers may take in as many game drives as they like. There’s a 6 a.m. drive, another at 3 p.m. and then another at 9 p.m. which takes place with large flood lights. An afternoon drive – from about 3 to 7 p.m. – turns up all the beasts one hopes to see. There are ele- phants, gazelles, impalas, zebras, and wildebeests by the tens of thousands. There’s a lone ostrich, a trio of mother gi- raffes, each with her own baby. A pride of 18 lions lazes about in the way of domes- tic cats. They don’t seem bothered by the jeeps, which at times rival them in num- bers, closing in to steal a look. The 6 a.m. drive is billed as the best time to see animals when they’re most ac- tive. It affords a look at exotic birds, hun- gry, loping hyenas and another trio of

lions – this time three females with a half PETER SIMPSON dozen young cubs, which gambol about Clockwise from top: Boniface, trusty driver for the Karen Blixen Camp. Lions relax much of the day, just like any sensible kitten does. like their domestic cousins. The terminal at the Kichwa Tembo airstrip is this hut in the distance. Even after seeing reams of wildlife and soaking up all the camp’s pampering, in- the incoming leg, arrives on time but is But then you fly over the villages, and cluding enjoying lazing about a small packed. The pilot sticks his head into the the friendly Masai wave. They have noth- swimming pool and taking advantage of open door at the back of the noisy aircraft ing but the land and each other – and one of the many spa services, it’s tough to to tell new passengers there will be four they’ve made your trip of a lifetime that leave, especially knowing the kind of stops this time. It’s windy, pouring rain, much warmer. hour-long drive that awaits. The plane, your stomach is not quite right and there inexplicably even smaller than the one on are no washrooms on board. Jennifer Campbell is Diplomat’s editor.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 43 DESTINATIONS | THE LAST WORD

At ease with the animals It’s easy to be steps away from wildlife wonders in Kenya’s Masai Mara

By Jennifer Campbell

he flight from Nairobi to the Kichwa Tembo airstrip on the Masai Mara Tcould take an hour — if it were non- stop. Stops, however, are plentiful on these puddle-jumping flights from Nairobi to southern Kenya. The stops add an hour or so to the flights, but give planeloads of safari-bound tourists a tremendous birds-eye introduction to the wonders of the Mara. The Masai Mara is a large park reserve in southwestern Kenya. It’s basically the northern continuation of the Serengeti, and it’s named for the Masai people who work the land, and the Mara River that divides it. At stop Number 1 on a typical flight, there’s a sight that daily delights scores of tourists. Inauspiciously set on the side of a dirt airstrip is a small shack with a cor- rugated tin roof that looks like it was dropped out of the sprawling slums of Nairobi — but for one distinction: a hand- painted sign on the wall of the shack that declares, “Duty-free shop.” Bright red PETER SIMPSON Masai scarves and blankets hang on the Wildebeests, a zany-looking seeming cross between buffaloes and donkeys, are plentiful on the Masai outside, and tourists slip out of the air- Mara in September when they make their migration to Tanzania. craft to take pictures of what surely must be the most photographed, and perhaps journey to the airstrip, so the drive to the river that runs alongside the camp. But most dubious, duty-free shop on the camp will be extra bumpy. It’s not clear they heed the hand-painted signs along planet. What customs duty you’re saving whether the joint in question would the riverbank that say “Don’t go beyond isn’t clear, but visitors soon realize that have made any difference but it’s soon this point!! Beware of hippos & croco- the Masai use “duty-free” at tiny outposts clear how and why it fell off. The drive diles.” Hippos kill more humans than any across the landscape. takes an hour. The distance? Seven kilo- other animal in Africa. Although they’re It’s one of many unique things seen metres. The road is like nothing seen in vegetarian, they are violent when defend- from the tourist flights, which also offer the Western world – its colossal ruts and ing territory. Get between them and their great views of the small Masai communi- rivers of rocks the size of human heads patch of river and their massive jaws ties, built in circles out of mud huts and are just a few of the obstacles. Boni is could slice you in two. They stay in the bamboo. Flying, which costs little more non-plussed. He makes the drive twice a river all day, but roam up on the banks to than driving, also gives a sneak preview day. Still, among the tourists, jokes about eat grass in the evenings, so the camp of endless wildlife of the plains. Thou- the benefits of no traffic make the manager insists visitors go nowhere after sands of strange-looking wildebeests – rounds. dark without a Masai escort. seemingly an awkward cross between a But the drive proves worthwhile. Guests have a bell on their “tent” keys buffalo and a donkey – travel in a mon- Karen Blixen Camp, one of the least ex- and ring to call a spear-wielding escort to strous herd at stop Number 2, and three pensive of those accessible via this get them to and from the restaurant after elephants saunter across the airstrip at airstrip, is paradise. A large, open-air sundown. All staffers – and there are 30 Kichwa Tembo, the final stop. (The out- building with a thatched roof, hardwood or so – seem to have a story about being bound flight had four stops, each on a floors and fine, upholstered furniture is chased by a hippo. They’ve lived to tell short, dirt airstrip.) command central. Here, guests check in, the tale because of the Masai escorts, Boni, short for Boniface, a friendly eat wonderful three-course meals, and who, upon hearing a bell, invariably ap- face at the final stop, is the guide for the share cocktails. The service at this resort, pear out of the darkness within seconds. Karen Blixen Camp. (Karen Blixen was a none-too crowded in late September, is Each of the camp’s 21 tents is like a Danish author best known for her book impeccable. In the mornings and cottage. Raised from the ground, the can- Out of Africa about her experiences in evenings – or whenever they like – vas slides under wood floors to keep the Kenya.) Boni announces that his dusty guests sit on the verandah here and bugs out and it all fits under a waterproof Land Cruiser has lost its “U-joint” on the watch the hippopotami who live in the (continued on page 43)

44 JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2008

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