A Walker's Guide To
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A Walker’s Guide To Harpers Ferry W E S T V I R G I N I A A Walker’s Guide To Harpers Ferry W E S T V I R G I N I A by David T. Gilbert Harpers Ferry Historical Association Eighth Edition Acknowledgements Table of Contents Several people have made indispensable contributions The Story of Harpers Ferry .............................. 8 to this edition of the Walker’s Guide. I am particularly indebted to Todd Bolton (Harpers Ferry NHP), David Lower Town ................................................... 25 Fox (Harpers Ferry NHP), David Guiney (Harpers Ferry Virginius Island .............................................. 73 Center, retired), Nancy Hatcher (Harpers Ferry NHP, retired), Bill Hebb (Harpers Ferry NHP, retired), Mike Storer College ............................................... 117 Jenkins (Harpers Ferry, W.Va.), Steve Lowe (Harpers Ferry NHP), Michael Murtaugh (Mercersburg, Pa.), and Maryland Heights ........................................ 131 Deborah Piscitelli (Harpers Ferry Historical Association). Loudoun Heights ......................................... 145 This guidebook would not have been possible without their generous support and assistance. Bolivar Heights ............................................ 155 Murphy Farm ............................................... 163 C&O Canal ................................................. 171 Weverton ...................................................... 183 Research Sources .......................................... 191 Index ............................................................ 196 The Lincoln Milling Machine, used to cut, shape, and finish small metal components, was common in 19th century armories and machine shops. 6 7 Other visitors have been less impressed. The Story of Harpers Ferry During a visit in 1834, John Quincy Adams wrote that “there is not much of the sublime in the scene, and those who first see it after reading “A most abominable little village” Mr. Jefferson’s description are usually disap- Much has been written about Harpers Ferry over the pointed....” years. Thomas Jefferson, after visiting the place in 1783, British traveler Thomas Cather, touring the described the rugged beauty of the natural setting: United States in 1836, wrote that “the view from the top of the rock on either side of Harper’s The passage of the Patowmac through the Blue Ferry is indeed glorious.” But he had no praise Ridge is perhaps one of the most stupendous scenes for the town itself: in Nature. You stand on a very high point of land. On your right comes up the Shenandoah, having There is a most abominable little village just ranged along the foot of the mountain a hundred in the pass between the mountains. Here is Maryland Heights (left) miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches the the Government Manufactory of Firearms; and the towers above two rows Patowmac in quest of a passage also. In the mo- smell of coal smoke and the clanking of hammers of Armory workshops in this c.1824 painting. ment of their junction they rush together against the obtrude themselves on the senses.... (Harpers Ferry NHP) mountain, rend it asunder and pass off to the sea. Indeed, Harpers Ferry is a place of many contrasts. Jefferson goes on to describe the “disruptions and The fact that Harpers Ferry was first and foremost an avulsions” and “riot and tumult” caused by the river’s industrial village during the 19th century is not apparent View from Jefferson in the sights, sounds or smells of the town today. Quiet Rock, from a c.1857 “quest of a passage” through the mountains. He con- lithograph. (Harpers cludes by writing that “this scene is worth a voyage streets, neat stone and brick buildings, and a splendid Ferry NHP) across the Atlantic.” setting between converging rivers and steep crags of the Blue Ridge Mountains give few hints of an industrial past. That Jefferson used such terms as “disruptions and avulsions” and “riot and tumult” to describe the meeting here of mountain and rivers anticipated remarkable events to come. What Jefferson saw in nature would come to characterize the town’s human history. For all of Jefferson’s idealism and eloquence, it was George Washington’s interest in commerce and industry that most shaped Harpers Ferry. Intimately familiar with the Potomac hinterland, Washington vigorously promoted the region’s economic development. As champion and first president of the Patowmack Company—organized to improve navigation on the Potomac and its major tributaries—he helped open the region to trade and com- merce. By selecting a site in the Potomac estuary between Georgetown and Alexandria for the new “Federal City,” he gave a tremendous boost to the region’s economy. And when Washington choose to locate a new federal armory at Harpers Ferry, the transformation of this place from 8 INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION 9 Please note that to prevent damage to historic ruins and to ensure park property is not damaged or adversely impacted, the following Harpers Ferry Park areas are closed to inflatable devices (inner-tubes, air mattresses, etc.), boats, canoes, kayaks, and the like: Those portions of the park including the footbridge across the Potomac River (Goodloe E. Byron Memo- rial Pedestrian Walkway), the Potomac River shoreline from the upstream CSX Railroad Bridge to The Point (confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers), and upstream along the Shenandoah River to the Rt. 340 Bridge. This area includes the Lower Town histor- ic area and Virginius Island between the Shenandoah River and Shenandoah Street; continues above the Rt. 340 Bridge to include the entire park between the CSX Railroad tracks and the park entrance road (Shoreline Drive); and, finally, includes the park entrance road from the Rt. 340 Bridge to the Cavalier Heights park- ing area. The Lower Town Exception: There is established a corridor to provide access to the Shenandoah River for river recreation Allow about three hours for this walking tour. There is 1896 view of the Lower Town from Maryland purposes. The corridor extends from the parking area very limited public parking in the Lower Town. Visitors should park at the Cavalier Heights Visitor Center and Heights. The new B&O at the end of Shenandoah Street (intersection with Rt. Railroad station in the 340) to the upstream side of the Rt. 340 bridge. For take the shuttle bus to the Lower Town (see Harpers foreground had just the purpose of this regulation the River access corri- Ferry National Historical Park map on pages 20-21). opened. (Harpers Ferry dor shall be defined as an area extending 50 yards on Shenandoah and Potomac Streets are level, while High NHP photo) either side of the trail leading from the parking lot to Street climbs steeply out of the Lower Town. St. Peter’s the river shore. Church and Jefferson Rock are reached by a steep climb up the Stone Steps and a paved footpath. Watch for traffic Also, life vests (PFDs) must be worn at all times by boat- on Shenandoah, Potomac, and High Streets. ers, rafters, and tubers on the Potomac River. For more information on whitewater rafting, canoe- ing, kayaking or tubing, visit one of the outfitter locations On this site the U.S. Government erected an Armory 241 or stop at the West Virginia Tourist Information Center. stable in 1848-1849. The brick structure, similar in ap- pearance to the Armory’s fire engine and guard house Blacksmith Shop (John Brown’s Fort), contained stalls for about six horses. The present structure houses a re-creation of a 19th cen- tury Blacksmith Shop. Here living history programs help bring to life some of the sights, sounds, and stories of a 19th century working class town. 24 INTRODUCTION LOWER TOWN 25 U.S. Musket Factory (1861) Lower Town North 38 canal ditch A Offices 1 Point of Interest 37 B “Bell” or T Finishing shop Featured building C Polishing shop C h B&O Railroad mainline (1842-1894) D Boring shop e s Former building site a E Stocking shop p e L a Former building site F Office k H Armory headrace e a (destroyed during & r G Machine shop p O e Civil War c.1861-62) H Millwright shop r h s io F Appalachian Trail I Connecting workshop e C r K r J Grinding & saw mill & carpenter’s shop a y n riverwall a N l H Visitor Information (dirt road) K Tilt-hammer & barrel-welding shop N P L Lumber house & coal bin H P Park Shuttle Bus Ha M Warehouse C U.S. Musket rp & e N Forging shop O rs F C J er O Inspector’s offices & model & pattern room Public Rest Rooms ry a S N n H P Smiths shop a I P l Q Annealing shop & brass foundry t to Washington Street R o w R Proof house p Q a S Charcoal house t h Lock 33 H T Rolling mill G 36 F tunnel E P POTOMAC O RIVER Factory D N Armory boat landing C Potomac Street 31) 94-19 31 B 35 e (18 ainlin M ad m Railro B&O footbridge Harpers stairs A Curved “Y” Ferry High Street span (1842) 33 34 29 30 32 26 D HARPER Church Street A CEMETERY B E 39 C 22 Ferry Lot (1861) 40 Potomac Viaduct 42 21 41 20 F (1836-1861) 19 18 A Dry goods store Harpers Ferry NHP Ferry Bollman Bridge 45 43 25 B Drug store 17 Lot I (1870-1936) Stone G 27 C John Strauss & Co. Ready- Cliff Trail Steps 16 23 H Made Clothing Store 15 24 J 46 D Potomac Restaurant 44 stairs E Wager House Hotel Jefferson 8 13 12 14 F B&O Railroad depot Rock 7 Park WEST VIRGINIAMARYLAND G Toll house Bookshop 6 riverwall H B&O Railroad office 11 28 I Gault House Saloon 4 9 J Winchester & Potomac Paymaster’s Railroad depot 2 Shenandoah Street House 10 SHENANDOAHRIVER 5 0 0.1 0.2 Kilometer 1 0 0.1 0.2 Mile 3 To Virginius Island Not until 1882 was a new bridge erected across the Shen- 2 To attract skilled craftsmen to work at the Armory in andoah River, about 300 yards downstream at The Point.