A Walker's Guide To

A Walker’s Guide To Harpers Ferry W E S T V I R G I N I A

by David T. Gilbert Harpers Ferry Historical Association Eighth Edition Acknowledgements Table of Contents

Several people have made indispensable contributions The Story of Harpers Ferry...... 8 to this edition of the Walker’s Guide. I am particularly indebted to Todd Bolton (Harpers Ferry NHP), David Lower Town...... 25 Fox (Harpers Ferry NHP), David Guiney (Harpers Ferry Virginius Island...... 73 Center, retired), Nancy Hatcher (Harpers Ferry NHP, retired), Bill Hebb (Harpers Ferry NHP, retired), Mike Storer College...... 117 Jenkins (Harpers Ferry, W.Va.), Steve Lowe (Harpers Ferry NHP), Michael Murtaugh (Mercersburg, Pa.), and Maryland Heights...... 131 Deborah Piscitelli (Harpers Ferry Historical Association). Loudoun Heights...... 145 This guidebook would not have been possible without their generous support and assistance. Bolivar Heights...... 155 Murphy Farm...... 163 C&O Canal...... 171 Weverton...... 183 Research Sources...... 191 Index...... 196

The Lincoln Milling Machine, used to cut, shape, and finish small metal components, was common in 19th century armories and machine shops.

6 7 Other visitors have been less impressed. The Story of Harpers Ferry During a visit in 1834, John Quincy Adams wrote that “there is not much of the sublime in the scene, and those who first see it after reading “A most abominable little village” Mr. Jefferson’s description are usually disap- Much has been written about Harpers Ferry over the pointed....” years. Thomas Jefferson, after visiting the place in 1783, British traveler Thomas Cather, touring the described the rugged beauty of the natural setting: United States in 1836, wrote that “the view from the top of the rock on either side of Harper’s The passage of the Patowmac through the Blue Ferry is indeed glorious.” But he had no praise Ridge is perhaps one of the most stupendous scenes for the town itself: in Nature. You stand on a very high point of land. On your right comes up the Shenandoah, having There is a most abominable little village just ranged along the foot of the mountain a hundred in the pass between the mountains. Here is Maryland Heights (left) miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches the the Government Manufactory of Firearms; and the towers above two rows Patowmac in quest of a passage also. In the mo- smell of coal smoke and the clanking of hammers of Armory workshops in this c.1824 painting. ment of their junction they rush together against the obtrude themselves on the senses.... (Harpers Ferry NHP) mountain, rend it asunder and pass off to the sea. Indeed, Harpers Ferry is a place of many contrasts. Jefferson goes on to describe the “disruptions and The fact that Harpers Ferry was first and foremost an avulsions” and “riot and tumult” caused by the river’s industrial village during the 19th century is not apparent View from Jefferson in the sights, sounds or smells of the town today. Quiet Rock, from a c.1857 “quest of a passage” through the mountains. He con- lithograph. (Harpers cludes by writing that “this scene is worth a voyage streets, neat stone and brick buildings, and a splendid Ferry NHP) across the Atlantic.” setting between converging rivers and steep crags of the Blue Ridge Mountains give few hints of an industrial past. That Jefferson used such terms as “disruptions and avulsions” and “riot and tumult” to describe the meeting here of mountain and rivers anticipated remarkable events to come. What Jefferson saw in nature would come to characterize the town’s human history. For all of Jefferson’s idealism and eloquence, it was George Washington’s interest in commerce and industry that most shaped Harpers Ferry. Intimately familiar with the Potomac hinterland, Washington vigorously promoted the region’s economic development. As champion and first president of the Patowmack Company—organized to improve navigation on the Potomac and its major tributaries—he helped open the region to trade and commerce. By selecting a site in the Potomac estuary between Georgetown and Alexandria for the new “Federal City,” he gave a tremendous boost to the region’s economy. And when Washington choose to locate a new federal armory at Harpers Ferry, the transformation of this place from

8 Introduction Introduction 9 Please note that to prevent damage to historic ruins and to ensure park property is not damaged or adversely impacted, the following Harpers Ferry Park areas are closed to inflatable devices (inner-tubes, air mattresses, etc.), boats, canoes, kayaks, and the like:

Those portions of the park including the footbridge across the Potomac River (Goodloe E. Byron Memo- rial Pedestrian Walkway), the Potomac River shoreline from the upstream CSX Railroad Bridge to The Point (confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers), and upstream along the Shenandoah River to the Rt. 340 Bridge. This area includes the Lower Town historic area and Virginius Island between the Shenandoah River and Shenandoah Street; continues above the Rt. 340 Bridge to include the entire park between the CSX Railroad tracks and the park entrance road (Shoreline Drive); and, finally, includes the park entrance road from the Rt. 340 Bridge to the Cavalier Heights parking area. The Lower Town Exception: There is established a corridor to provide access to the Shenandoah River for river recreation Allow about three hours for this walking tour. There is 1896 view of the Lower Town from Maryland purposes. The corridor extends from the parking area very limited public parking in the Lower Town. Visitors should park at the Cavalier Heights Visitor Center and Heights. The new B&O at the end of Shenandoah Street (intersection with Rt. Railroad station in the 340) to the upstream side of the Rt. 340 bridge. For take the shuttle bus to the Lower Town (see Harpers foreground had just the purpose of this regulation the River access corri- Ferry National Historical Park map on pages 20-21). opened. (Harpers Ferry dor shall be defined as an area extending 50 yards on Shenandoah and Potomac Streets are level, while High NHP photo) either side of the trail leading from the parking lot to Street climbs steeply out of the Lower Town. St. Peter’s the river shore. Church and Jefferson Rock are reached by a steep climb up the Stone Steps and a paved footpath. Watch for traffic Also, life vests (PFDs) must be worn at all times by boat- on Shenandoah, Potomac, and High Streets. ers, rafters, and tubers on the Potomac River. For more information on whitewater rafting, canoe- ing, kayaking or tubing, visit one of the outfitter locations On this site the U.S. Government erected an Armory 241 or stop at the West Virginia Tourist Information Center. stable in 1848-1849. The brick structure, similar in ap- pearance to the Armory’s fire engine and guard house Blacksmith Shop (John Brown’s Fort), contained stalls for about six horses. The present structure houses a re-creation of a 19th century Blacksmith Shop. Here living history programs help bring to life some of the sights, sounds, and stories of a 19th century working class town.

24 Introduction Lower Town 25 U.S. Musket Factory (1861) Lower Town North 38 canal ditch A Ofﬁces 1 Point of Interest 37 B “Bell” or T Finishing shop Featured building C Polishing shop C h B&O Railroad mainline (1842-1894) D Boring shop e s Former building site a E Stocking shop p e L a Former building site F Ofﬁce k H Armory headrace e a (destroyed during & r G Machine shop p O e Civil War c.1861-62) H Millwright shop r h s

io F Appalachian Trail I Connecting workshop e C r K r J Grinding & saw mill & carpenter’s shop a y n riverwall a N l H Visitor Information (dirt road) K Tilt-hammer & barrel-welding shop N P L Lumber house & coal bin H P Park Shuttle Bus Ha M Warehouse C U.S. Musket rp & e N Forging shop O rs F C J er O Inspector’s ofﬁces & model & pattern room Public Rest Rooms ry a S n H P Smiths shop a I l Q Annealing shop & brass foundry t to Washington Street R o w R Proof house p Q a S Charcoal house t h Lock 33 H T Rolling mill

G 36 F tunnel E P POTOMAC

O RIVER Factory D N Armory boat landing C Potomac Street 31) 94-19 31 B 35 e (18 ainlin M ad m Railro B&O footbridge Harpers stairs A Curved “Y” Ferry High Street span (1842) 33 34 29 30 32 26 D HARPER Church Street A CEMETERY B E 39 C 22 Ferry Lot (1861) 40 Potomac Viaduct 42 21 41 20 F (1836-1861) 19 18 A Dry goods store Harpers Ferry H Ferry Bollman Bridge 45 43 25 B Drug store 17 Lot I (1870-1936) Stone G 27 C John Strauss & Co. Ready- Cliff Trail Steps 16 23 H Made Clothing Store 15 24 J 46 D Potomac Restaurant 44 stairs E Wager House Hotel Jefferson 8 13 12 14 F B&O Railroad depot Rock 7 Park WEST VIRGINIAMARYLAND G Toll house Bookshop 6 riverwall H B&O Railroad ofﬁce 11 28 I Gault House Saloon 4 9 J Winchester & Potomac Paymaster’s Railroad depot 2 Shenandoah Street House 10 SHENANDOAHRIVER 5 0 0.1 0.2 Kilometer

1 0 0.1 0.2 Mile 3 To Virginius Island Not until 1882 was a new bridge erected across the Shen- 2 To attract skilled craftsmen to work at the Armory in andoah River, about 300 yards downstream at The Point. the early 1800s, the government provided housing for Armorer’s its workers. The front section of this dwelling house was Dwelling House erected between 1822-1830. During the 1840s, the build- In 1830, the Harpers Ferry, Charles Town & Smithfield 4 ing was enlarged into a 2½-story stone structure. Houses Turnpike Co. was organized. The following year the such as this were rented out to Armory workmen for company’s turnpike was completed to Harpers Ferry, Shenandoah about $100 a year. becoming Shenandoah Street in the Lower Town. A toll Street was charged for travel on this turnpike, the rate being about 2¢ a mile for horse and buggy. In 1833, Shenando- 3 In 1843-1844, the Shenandoah Bridge Co. erected a ah Street was macadamized—finished with small broken covered wagon bridge across the Shenandoah River at stones compacted into a solid layer. This macadam surface Bridge Street the foot of Bridge Street. This bridge replaced the old has been recreated here. “Shenandoah Rope Ferry” which had been operated by the U.S. Government since 1818. The new structure was To begin the Virginius Island walking tour, follow Ham- supported by two stone piers 28 feet high, 30 feet wide, ilton Street upstream to the footbridge across the old and ten feet thick at their base. The bridge had a double Shenandoah Canal. See Virginius Island on page 73. wagon track, was weatherboarded, and was roofed with cypress shingles. Despite the completion of this new bridge, the gov- In March 1836, the Winchester & Potomac Railroad 5 ernment still owned the ferry rights across the Shenan- was opened 32 miles from Winchester, Virginia to Harp- doah River. In return for not exercising these rights, the ers Ferry, where it connected with the Baltimore & Winchester & Shenandoah Bridge Company granted the government Ohio Railroad. This rail line played an important role in Potomac R.R. toll-free passage for all Armory workers and property using the bridge. This bridge was demolished by a violent wind storm in June 1859, was rebuilt later that year, and was destroyed for good by Confederate raiders in June 1861.

Shenandoah rope ferry, c.1876-1881. (Harpers Ferry NHP)

Opposite page: A Union supply train passes a troop train on the Winchester & Potomac R.R. trestle through Harpers Ferry during the winter of 1864-1865. The piers of the former Shenan- doah wagon bridge are visible in the river. (Harpers Ferry NHP photo)

28 Lower Town Lower Town 29 Memorable Floods At Harpers Ferry forced the C&O Canal to close perma- 1996 – January 21-22: Rain and nently. snowmelt from the record Blizzard of 1936 – 36½ feet—the all-time January 1996—which dumped more record crest at Harpers Ferry. The Boll- than two feet of snow in the valleys of man highway bridge and Shenandoah the Potomac and Shenandoah—caused bridge were swept away, while many the rivers to rise to 29.4 feet in the businesses in the Lower Town were left Lower Town. September 8: Devastating in ruins. rains from the remnants of Hurricane 1942 – All-time record crest for the Fran fell across the Shenandoah and Shenandoah Valley—32.4 feet at Mill- Potomac basins. The rivers rose to 29.8 ville, W.Va. Floodwaters reached 34 feet feet, marking the first time in the town’s in Lower Town Harpers Ferry. history that two floods in excess of 29 1972 – Floodwater from Hurricane feet occurred in a single year. Agnes swelled to 29.7 feet here, leaving behind mud and debris in the Lower Town. Top left: Shenandoah Street after the Flood of 1889. Bottom left: High water and debris clog 1985 – The Potomac and Shenan- Shenandoah Street during the flood of May 14, doah rivers crested at nearly 29.8 feet 1924. (Harpers Ferry NHP photos) Below: Aerial in Lower Town Harpers Ferry, causing view of the September 8, 1996 flood. (NPS some $2 million in damage. photo by Terry Adams) 1748 – According to local legend, Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, and closed floodwaters drove Robert Harper from the old Shenandoah Canal for good. the log cabin he had acquired from Peter 1889 – The rivers rose to a record Stephens. height—34.8 feet—destroying the 1753 – “The Pumpkin Flood,” so Shenandoah wagon bridge and forcing named for the great numbers of pump- the Child & McCreight flour mill on kins washed down from the gardens of Virginius Island to close for good. nearby Indian villages. 1924 – Floodwaters swept away 1852 – The greatest flood since the three spans from the Bollman highway first settlers arrived at Harpers Ferry. bridge across the Potomac River and Waterpower dams and millraces along the Potomac and Shenan- doah rivers suffered considerable damage. 1870 – The Shenandoah River rose so rapidly that resi- dents were trapped on Virgin- ius Island. Floodwaters swept away homes and industry along the Shenandoah shoreline and claimed 42 lives. 1877 – High water caused considerable damage to the

32 33 13 Erected in 1903, this three-story stone structure was originally called Lewis W. Anthony Industrial Building. The Lewis W. building housed a blacksmith shop, carpenter shop, store Anthony room, and office. In 1929, the structure was converted Building into the Storer College library. Today the building houses the National Park Service’s Reference Services Library.

14 A three-story stone structure containing a demonstration kitchen, agricultural and botany classrooms, and a physi- DeWolf cal sciences laboratory was erected here in 1891. The Industrial Bldg. building was demolished in 1962.

15 This two-story red brick church was erected in 1894 and named in honor of Rev. Silas P. Curtis of New Hampshire. Curtis Freewill The basement originally contained a kitchen, classroom, Baptist Church library, and vestry room for Storer College. The main floor comprised the church auditorium. Owned today by the National Park Service, the church auditorium is still used for public events. Maryland Heights 16 This building serves as headquarters for the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (formerly the Appalachian Trail Con- Begin this walking tour at The Point in the Lower Town. Lock 33 and the Maryland end of Appalachian Trail ference), and includes a small store where hiking informa- The Point to the Overlook Cliffs is a round trip of 4.1 Conservancy miles (about 3 hours). The Point to the Stone Fort is a the Bollman Bridge, tion, trail guides, and maps are all available. Since 1925, c.1868. (Lieb Photo Headquarters the ATC has spear-headed an unprecedented cooperative round trip of 6 miles (about 4 hours), and climbs about Archive) effort among hard-working volunteers, generous bene- 1,200 feet to the summit. Cross the Potomac River on the factors, and far-sighted government agencies to develop, footbridge connected to the rail-road trestle. An alternate protect, and maintain the Appalachian Trail. starting point is at one of the very small parking pull-outs along Harpers Ferry Road. The trails include some strenu- ous uphill sections. Be sure to bring ample drinking water.

For a description of The Point and the adjacent bridge ruins, see Lower Town, #27-31, starting on page 43.

The Appalachian Trail passes over the Potomac River 1 from West Virginia into Maryland via the Goodloe E. Byron Memorial Pedestrian Walkway. Goodloe Byron Appalachian served three terms as U.S. Congressman, from 1971-1978, Trail

130 Storer College Maryland Heights 131 . d Point of Interest R 1 Maryland Heights r e t representing Maryland’s Sixth District. Active in outdoor s 0 0.5 Kilometer Parking a recreation, Byron was a strong advocate for both the m f f l Harpers Ferry NHP i o 0 0.5 Mile a Chesapeake & Ohio Canal and Appalachian Trial. He Fishing Access r H T

died in office in 1978. g

d Appalachian Trail i

R Benton Mackaye, a naturalist from Massachusetts,

k l first proposed “An Appalachian Trail” in 1921. The fol- Visitor Information E lowing year the first mile of the Trail was cut and marked Park Shuttle Bus See Fortiﬁcations 11 Stone in the Palisades Interstate Park in New York State. By Detail on Page 142 Fort 1937, the project was initially completed. The Trail was Restrooms 12 10 designated as the first National Scenic Trail by the Na- Gas Station tional Trails System Act of 1968. Today, this popular rec- Summit 13 elev. 1448 feet reational footpath extends over 2,000 miles from Maine Powder to Georgia, traversing 14 states, two national parks, and magazine North eight national forests. d a The large weathered sign painted high on the face of o r

y Maryland Heights reads “Mennens Borate Talcum Toilet r a t i l Powder.” The sign dates to about 1896. i M

Descend the metal stairway at the Maryland end of the d e 14 z a footbridge and turn right (downstream) on the C&O l b - overlook e Canal towpath. u elev. 1388 feet l overlook b 9

d d Powder e e z z The towpath beneath you once bore the hoofs of mules a la magazines 2 l -b -b ue Harpers Ferry NHP n bl Powder towing 92-foot barges along the old C&O Canal (see 5 e Powder re magazine Chesapeake Chesapeake & Ohio Canal on page 134). The federal g magazine & Ohio Canal 6 Infantry government purchased this property in 1938 from the 8 trenches Towpath elev. receivers of the defunct C&O Canal Company. Ten years Powder 1181 magazines re d feet later Congress studied the feasibility of using the canal elev. 679 feet - b l a and towpath as a route for a vehicular parkway. z C e & d M O ilita Conservationists, however, vigorously opposed C ry Sandy a ro n ad construction of a parkway. In 1954, Supreme Court P a Hook O l T to O w Justice William O. Douglas wrote a letter urging editors M p at Rd. A h ook of a Washington, D.C. newspaper which supported the C 7 dy H Harpers San parkway to accompany him on a hike down the entire Ferry cliffs 4 elev. 627 feet length of the canal. In his letter, he described this natural tunnel sanctuary “...not yet marred by the roar of wheels and the sound of horns.... The stretch of 185 miles of country from Washington to Cumberland, Maryland, is one of the 1 2 Shena The 3 RIVER ndoah Street most fascinating and picturesque in the Nation.” Point MD. elev. 256 ft. MARYLAND Through the efforts of Douglas and fellow conserva- W.VA. VIRGINIA ER tionists, the parkway plan was abandoned. On January 8, RIV 340 AH cliffs NDO SHENA

132 Maryland Heights Lower Town 133 Historic District cliffs 671 Pennsylvania ettysburg Stonewall Jackson Captures Harpers Ferry On September 4, 1862, Robert E. Lee’s the northern extension of Maryland Army of Northern Virginia crossed Heights. Rebel yells echoed up the Confederate Advance the Potomac River and advanced to steep slope as the Confederates made on Harpers Ferry

Frederick, Maryland, embarking upon their way through the tangled vegeta- O September 11 1 Hagerston th O the first Confederate invasion of the tion. The untested 126 New York, in M North. Lee expected the Union garrison the army just 21 days, faced their first Maryland at Harpers Ferry, under the command of field of fire standing beside the veteran illiamsport LO N oonsboro Col. Dixon S. Miles, to retreat. But the 39th New York and 32nd Ohio. Chaos G ST Federal forces did not cooperate, and and confusion soon swept the line after JACKSO RE N ET Lee was forced to take decisive action to Col. Sherrill of the 126th New York was secure his supply lines. wounded. Col. Thomas Ford, Union On September 9, while camped commander on Maryland Heights, around Frederick, Lee issued Special requested reinforcements, but none ar- Martinsburg Orders 191, boldly dividing his army rived. He continued the fight, but found Sharpsburg Frederic urittsille LEE into four parts. Maj. Gen. “Stonewall” himself outnumbered. Inexplicably, the W rmy of HIT Jackson, in overall command of three order was given for the Federals to fall E M orthern Baltimore & Ohio Railroad cLAW columns totaling 23,000 men, was back. Following nine hours of fighting, S irginia ordered to capture Harpers Ferry. Con- the Union troops left the mountain, MILES

R federate Gen. John G. Walker’s column handing the high ground of Maryland E V Harpers I R crossed the Potomac River near Point Heights to Gen. McLaws. Ferry Y th C R of Rocks 10 miles downstream from By 10 a.m. on September 14 , Gen. A tomac R.R. E C Po K O Harpers Ferry and proceeded to Loud- Walker accomplished what Col. Dixon & N ter L es O ch A oun Heights. Gen. Lafayette McLaws S. Miles had considered impossible—po- in M W W R was ordered to take Maryland Heights. sitioning artillery along the undefended E IV R Hillsboro McLaws understood the topography crest of Loudoun Heights. At about 1 H M A O c around Harpers Ferry well. “So long p.m. Walker’s guns opened fire on Harp- D N C A L as Maryland Heights was occupied by ers Ferry. McLaws’ guns on Maryland N E Virginia E H S L the enemy,” he wrote, “Harper’s Ferry Heights and Jackson’s pieces on School eesburg L A House Ridge joined the bombardment. POTOM could never be occupied by us. If we AC N R IV gained possession of the heights, the The intensity of the barrage severely Throughout the night, Hill’s men ER town was no longer tenable to them.” shook the spirit of the Federal troops. dragged five batteries up steep ravines rmy Jackson’s column advanced from Col. William H. Trimble of the 60th to the plateau at the Chambers’ Farm, of the otomac Frederick to Boonsboro, crossed the Po- Ohio wrote that there was “not a place successfully flanking the Union position tomac River at Williamsport, captured where you could lay the palm of your (see Confederate Battle Line, #3 on page Martinsburg, and took up positions hand and say it was safe.” 166). The fate of Harpers Ferry was th along School House Ridge to the imme- On the evening of September 14 , sealed. Washington D.C. diate west of Harpers Ferry. Jackson’s Jackson’s troops on School House Ridge The Union garrison, surrounded advance forced Union Gen. Julius White launched a night assault against Federal and out of long-range artillery shells, North to abandon Martinsburg and withdraw skirmishers at the center of the Union surrendered on the morning of Septem- his forces into Harpers Ferry. line on Bolivar Heights. This feigned ber 15. Jackson captured 12,693 men at leandria At sunrise on September 13, two action was successful in keeping Federal Harpers Ferry—the largest single cap- Confederate infantry brigades advanced attention diverted from the surreptitious ture of Union troops during the entire south along the crest of Elk Ridge— movements of Gen. A.P. Hill. war. 1 ilometers

140 Manassas 1 Miles141