Hot Spots NEW YORK — There’S Nothing Like a Little Italian Riviera Sex Appeal to Heat Things Up

WILLIAMS SISTERS SERVE JEWELRY/3 N.Y. APPAREL JOBS DIVE/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • May 12, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 97 $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Hot Spots NEW YORK — There’s nothing like a little Italian Riviera sex appeal to heat things up. For resort, Giorgio Armani is putting a sultry stamp on Armani Collezioni with body-conscious silhouettes spiced up with flirty polkadots or stripes. Here, a silk and polyester dress. For more, see page 4.

The Prodigal Label: Thomas Burberry Line Relaunches in the U.K.

By Samantha Conti LONDON — Burberry has a new baby for Britain — and eventually perhaps the rest of the world. The company’s relaunched Thomas Burberry line is ready to make its U.K. debut, building off an existing strong customer base in Spain and Portugal. In its latest incarnation, the collection is full of collegiate, youthful classics — with a Nancy Drew and Hardy Boys feel to it. But there’s no mystery to the brand’s potential. While Burberry executives declined to reveal sales See Burberry, Page5 PHOTO BY KYLE PHOTO ERICKSEN KYLE BY 2 3 0 0 2

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1 Viktor & Rolf, Alexander McQueen WWDMONDAY

Y Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear A M

Y GENERAL A Reach Accord on Use of Red Seal

D FASHION: Little dresses and short skirts dominate the look at Armani Collezioni

N for resort, with sporty lacing and cropped pants among the highlights. O PARIS — It looks like Viktor & 4 M

Rolf got the seal of approval. Burberry has a new baby for Britain — and eventually, perhaps, the rest of , D WWD has learned that the 1 the world — in the relaunch of its youthful Thomas Burberry line. W Dutch design duo and its fra- W grance licensee, L’Oréal, Viktor & Rolf and Alexander McQueen have reached an agreement over reached an agreement with 2 McQueen’s use of a prominent red wax seal on his fragrance, Kingdom. Alexander McQueen and YSL Recently released economic data show that apparel manufacturing Beauté over McQueen’s use of a employment in New York has plummeted 19.9 percent over the past year. prominent red wax seal on the 2 packaging of his new fragrance, INNERWEAR: The May market could be summed up as anticlimactic, with Kingdom. It is believed that 6 some showrooms bustling with traffic and others relatively empty. McQueen will alter or phase EYE: A visit in the Paris’ lucky 13th arrondissement…Nell’s gets cranking in out that detail by the time the London…a party for Central Park, plus a scoop. Viktor & Rolf scent hits the 16 market, possibly in 2004. A closeup of the package of Alexander McQueen’s fragrance, Kingdom, and Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 Viktor & Rolf’s backdrop to their fashion show in Paris last March. As reported, Viktor & Rolf To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is were upset because a red seal [email protected], using the individual's name. has been its logo for years, Beauté. A spokesman for Viktor in these columns March 5, at SUBSCRIPTION RATES even appearing on jeans and Horsting and Rolf Snoeren also which time Gucci took pains to U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. sweaters, and presumably an declined to elaborate on the downplay any trademark in- Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; integral element of the per- pact and the designers were fringement and stress its cor- outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. fume under development. not available for comment. dial relations with L’Oréal. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Terms of the pact, however, They are busy preparing their Gucci Group chairman Domen- issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. are sealed. next collection, and a major 10- ico De Sole is sailing buddies WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., “We have reached an amica- year retrospective that will with L’Oréal chief Lindsay a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, ble solution with L’Oréal, and open during Paris fashion week Owen-Jones. including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be agreed to not disclose the in October at the Museum of YSL Beauté launched King- expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. terms,” said a spokesman for Textiles and Fashion here. dom last March, with plans to Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Gucci Group, parent of YSL Details of the feud surfaced sell the scent in 4,000 doors. Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com.

MONDAY: Pacific Sunwear reports on its first-quarter NYC Apparel-Manufacturing Jobs Off 20% earnings. Vogue and Perry Ellis International celebrate nominees By Scott Malone As reported, in April, the indus- Business Improvement District, for Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Awards for the 2003 CFDA try payroll fell to 495,000 — the said what’s particularly striking Fashion Awards, New York. NEW YORK — Recently re- first time it’s been below the about the recent acceleration in leased economic data show that half-million mark. the rate of decline is that “it TUESDAY: Commerce Department reports on March im- apparel manufacturing employ- The city industry’s rate of de- didn’t seem there was any one port figures. ment in this city has plummeted cline also is sharper than the 15 thing that provoked a sudden First-quarter earnings from Wal-Mart, J.C. Penney, May 19.9 percent over the past year, percent rate of job loss seen in sharp drop.” Department Stores and TJX Cos. greatly outpacing the citywide the 12-month period immediate- She blamed the weak city Parsons senior graduates Collective 2003 fashion show, job loss rate of 1.7 percent. ly following Sept. 11, 2001. That economy, which has prompted New York. According to the New York was a period of heavy job loss layoffs in many other industries, State Department of Labor, at for Chinatown, largely because and global economic pressures WEDNESDAY: Commerce Department releases April re- the end of March, the city’s ap- large swaths of the neighbor- that are driving manufacturing tail sales figures. parel-manufacturing payroll hood were cordoned off for out of the U.S. The Lighthouse Posh Benefit 31st Anniversary, New York stood at 33,100, down from 41,300 weeks after the attack, forcing as She said those forces seem all (through Saturday). a year earlier. That’s well off many as half the area’s garment but unstoppable. That realiza- First-quarter earnings from Federated Department from the 48,600 workers em- contractors to shut their doors. tion is one reason the FCBID has Stores, Tiffany, Ann Taylor and Bulgari. ployed by the industry in August Through the Nineties, the recommended that the city drop 2001, before the Sept. 11 terror- rate of decline was typically in the special-zoning requirement THURSDAY: Labor Department releases Producer Price ist attacks. the mid-single-digit percentage that half the space in side-street Index for April. Nationwide, apparel employ- ranges, and never exceeded 9 Garment District buildings be set First-quarter earnings from Target and Kohl’s. ment for the year ended March percent. aside for manufacturing. COMING THIS WEEK was off 4.7 percent, according to Barbara Randall, executive “That’s the direction the world FRIDAY: Labor Department reports on Consumer Price the U.S. Department of Labor. director of the Fashion Center Continued on page 11 Index for April. Marzotto Names New President In Brief VALDAGNO, Italy — In a move Pietro Marzotto stepped down with $57.4 million in the same pe- aimed at facilitating the restruc- as president in 1998, but he con- riod last year, because of its invest- ANOTHER POINT ON GUCCI: France’s Pinault-Printemps- turing of Marzotto SpA, the fash- tinued to wield power over the ment in the Valentino brand. Redoute SA spent about $102.9 million to buy 1.06 million shares of ion and textile company named a company as a majority share- Figures have been converted from Gucci Group NV, boosting PPR’s stake in Gucci to 63.28 percent new president and six new board holder. Although not involved in euros at current exchange rates. from 62.2 percent, it was revealed in a Friday filing with the members during its annual share- this new pact, he was reelected Net consolidated sales rose 3.5 Securities and Exchange Commission. The purchases were made holders meeting in this small as a Marzotto board member. He percent to $624.9 million against on the Amsterdam Stock Exchange between May 2 and May 8, so town north of Venice Friday. now personally controls 15.2 per- $604.2 million in last year’s first dollar figures have been converted from the euro at current ex- Giovanni Gajo, 61, who has a cent of the firm, according to quarter. The company credited change rates. The filing was the 13th amendment of PPR’s strong banking and finance Italian regulatory agency Consob. the rise to improved performance Schedule 13D, filed with the SEC in March 1999, when PPR became background, succeeds Innocenza Tensions hit the boiling point at its textile division and to the Gucci’s white knight in its battle to stave off a hostile takeover by Cippolletta, who held the posi- last year when the Marzotto patri- consolidation of Valentino. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. PPR is committed to buying tion of president for less than arch, who then owned about 20 Eliminating noncomparable all Gucci shares it doesn’t own next year for $101.50 a share. PPR three years. Jean de Jaegher, percent of the firm, and some operations such as Valentino, now beneficially owns 62,803,940 of Gucci’s common shares. vice president, also stepped members of the family voted sales fell 3 percent to $585.8 mil- down but his position won’t be against a plan to reorganize the lion from $604.2 million, mainly MIDEAST TRADE PROPOSAL: Add another free-trade agreement filled. Antonio Favrin remains family’s assets. Under terms of the because of the rise of the euro. to the Bush administration’s to-do list. President Bush on Friday chief executive of the group. now-defunct plan, Marzotto’s fam- Excluding both sales generated said the U.S. plans to work toward an FTA with the Mideast by 2013. Meanwhile, a new sharehold- ily-controlled company Industrie by Valentino and the negative im- He didn’t specify which countries would be included. This makes ers pact that excludes patriarch Zignago Santa Margherita would pact of the euro, Fravin said rev- 10 separate free-trade deals that the administration has either and Italian industrialist Pietro have launched an offer for all out- enues would have gained slightly. begun talks on or proposed. Meanwhile, the General Accounting Marzotto was established among standing shares of Marzotto. Valentino’s sales increased Office last week said negotiations for the Free Trade Area of the other members of the Marzotto Favrin downplayed the impor- 8.2 percent in April compared Americas could easily miss the target 2005 completion date. family. The pact among Marzotto tance of the pact, saying the with same period last year. family shareholders, who now group was focused on building its Marzotto’s textile sector also LEVI’S COMPLETES DEBT BUYBACK: San Francisco-based control 27 percent of Marzotto, core fashion brands, Hugo Boss, improved. A spokesman said the Levi Strauss & Co. on Friday said it had completed its buyback of grew out of ongoing market spec- Valentino and Marlboro Classics. operating loss for the first quar- 92 percent of its 6.8 percent notes that were due Nov. 1. The com- ulation that Marzotto’s share- For the quarter ended March ter was $3.4 million, $11.5 mil- pany said $192.3 million worth of notes had been tendered since holding structure was destabiliz- 31, Marzotto said net profits slid 26 lion less than one year ago. the offer opened April 9. ing as family differences grew. percent to $42.5 million, compared — Courtney Colavita 3 Fashion Scoops Gem, Set and Match: Venus and Serena MONDAY,WWD, 2003 12, MAY MATRIX OVERLOADED: The media Christ’s Tara Subkoff. In town putting blitz behind “The Matrix Reloaded” the finishing touches on costumes for kicked into overdrive during a Sydney Dance Co. production, Team Up With Avon for ‘Winning Styles’ Wednesday night’s all-black premiere called “Underland,” Subkoff had at Los Angeles’ Mann Village time to check out just one show — NEW YORK — Venus and Serena Williams are Theatre. Those eagerly awaiting the Akira Isogawa — who has, known for their sparkle and sparks on the tennis release and those merely curious coincidentally, designed costumes for court, and now the sisters are going for gold with a about the buzz included Amber three previous SDC productions. new jewelry line, Winning Styles. Valetta, Sandra Bullock, Katie Holmes, Commissioned from New York-based The pair designed the collection in collabora- Lucy Liu and Demi Moore. Nipping at choreographer Stephen Petronio, tion with global direct seller Avon Products Inc., the heels of current box office “Underland” features music by Nick which has had the sisters under contract for its ad champ “X2,” the film also heralds Cave and opens May 27 at the campaign since 2000. the return of girl power both on and Sydney Opera House. It’s Subkoff’s “Our mom was a representative [for Avon] when off screen. Jada Pinkett Smith, clad in second collaboration with Petronio — we were babies, so we knew the products and how a black Roland Mouret dress and last year she designed costumes for great they were from a very young age,” said Venus. metal-studded Oscar de la Renta his City Of Twist production at New Within Winning Styles, Serena designed the leather jacket, had no qualms about York’s Joyce Theatre. Open Prize group, which features a set of drop getting rough with co-stars Keanu “I’m a huge fan of Nick Cave, and earrings, a necklace and a tennis bracelet, while Reeves and Laurence Fishburne. “I I think there’s a sort of darker feeling Venus’ Court Flash group comprises a silver-tone sure did kick their butts, and it was to the whole piece — it’s a little bit and rhinestone ring and a necklace and earring great,” she said. But Italian Goth,” said Subkoff in the costume set. The sisters also collaborated on two pairs of bombshell Monica Belluci, bound in department of the SDC’s Wharf 4 hoop earrings. her usual Dolce & Gabbana corsetry, harborfront headquarters. The “I’ve been wearing [the Open Prize necklace] only got the chance to flex her costumes include a reconstructed constantly since the photo shoot for the collection, Venus and Serena Williams wearing their own jewels. feminine wiles. “I didn’t get to kick black mesh singlet dress, white T- and I was even photographed wearing it when I ac- anybody’s butt…but I am shirts with skull graphics designed by cepted a special trophy given to me by the WTA Tour But wait, there’s more. Venus is even thinking dangerous,” she said mischievously. her brother, Daniel Subkoff, and some in recognition of the Serena Slam,” said Serena. about making the leap from court queen to Avon Meanwhile, the men proved they less-Gothic red half tutus and hot All items in the jewelry line sell for $14.99 and lady. “Actually, I am already planning to become a could also cut dashing figures on the pink Oroton bras bought in Sydney. will be distributed through the nationwide net- representative this summer so that I can sell all red carpet. Reeves and Fishburne Subkoff added she’d be back in work of 600,000 Avon representatives. these great products to my friends,” she said. wore bespoke suits by Brit Ozwald town for opening night, and also “Venus and Serena are great role models for But the sisters — who aren’t exactly known to Boateng, who flew in just to fit them. might return to stage a fashion women,” said Sally Haigh-Alex, Avon’s vice presi- fraternize with colleagues — were mum about The designer is on his way to New presentation of her own. “I think in dent of U.S. category marketing. “We thought we whether they’ll approach any players on tour. That, York to scout locations for a store, New York right now, people are could design a line of jewelry for every woman it seems, will remain a question for the locker room. which he hopes to open by fall. The having a difficult time. There’s not who shares their championship spirit.” — Marc Karimzadeh film opens nationwide Thursday. the excitement that I think there is in other places. It’s really exciting to A SWID ENGAGEMENT: Jill Swid and leave and go to other places.” Jonathan Tisch are headed to the altar after six months of dating. The DAY JOB: TV’s “Soap Talk” host, Lisa hotelier popped the question Rinna, and husband Harry Hamlin Thursday in Manhattan, and Swid feted the opening of their Belle Gray Fila Shrinks Losses in Quarter accepted. “I’m so gaga,” she said, boutique with a party last week, luring adding that the proposal was a throngs of Angelenos over the NEW YORK — Better gross prof- to the combined effects of previ- tions and to pursue its mission to surprise. Sources say a summer mountain to 13812 Ventura it allowed Fila Holding SpA to ously implemented efficiency ac- reinforce and reposition the wedding in Southampton is in the Boulevard in Sherman Oaks, Calif. substantially reduce its losses in tions, the closure or discontinua- brand internationally.” works, though Tisch’s spokesman The 1,100-square-foot boutique, the first quarter even as sales tion of some less profitable sub- While both apparel and would not confirm it. The named after the couple’s daughters’ fell sharply. sidiaries, reductions in inventory footwear sales regressed in the bridegroom’s first marriage to Laura middle names, carries Sanctuary, Von For the three months ended and more selective distribution. U.S and Europe, the declines Steinberg, daughter of Gayfryd and Dutch and Alvin Valley, among other March 31, the Biella, Italy-based In a statement, chief executive were far greater in the footwear Saul Steinberg — a wedding long contemporary labels. “I went in my sportswear and footwear mar- remembered as the ultimate in closet with a pad, wrote down all the keter reported a net loss of $7.4 Eighties decadence — ended in lines I buy and that’s how I shopped,” million, or 7 cents an American The positive results Fila continues divorce. said Rinna. “I think $2,000 is a good depository share. By compari- “ day in retail and we did 10 times that son, last year, the company lost a to report despite the critical economic PARISIAN LIFE: Trust Madonna to draw last night,” she said last Tuesday, heftier $36.3 million, or 91 cents. a stylish crowd. In Paris last week for noting more than half of the store Figures have been converted scenario confirm the validity of a private concert at the trendy shelves were empty. Hamlin oversaw from euros at current exchange restaurant, Cantine du Faubourg, she the construction, which includes rates. Calculating at average ex- the long-term strategy adopted attracted the likes of John Galliano, white wood walls and dark wood and change, Fila said the first-quar- Jean Paul Gaultier, Eva Herzigova, seagrass floors. “I do this when I have ter net loss was $6.9 million ver- by management. Emmanuelle Seigner, Luc Besson and to. It’s not my occupation of choice,” sus $27.7 million a year ago. ” Philippe Starck. Only about 400 quipped the actor. Net revenues for the period — Marco Isaia, Fila Holding SpA happy few were invited, but her As for the valley location, plunged 20.5 percent to $227.6 seven-song performance was urbanites marveled. “It’s like a field million from $286.5 million, officer Marco Isaia said, “The pos- segment. Apparel revenues broadcast live on a local radio station. trip,” said Decades owner Cameron while at average exchange, they itive results Fila continues to re- slipped 3 percent in the U.S and Silver, who turned out along with an dipped a more modest 2.3 per- port despite the critical economic Europe but footwear shriveled BODY OF CHRIST: One unexpected autograph-signing Eve, Cindy cent to $221.3 million from scenario confirm the validity of 20 and 31 percent in those mar- fashion international in the front row Crawford and Rinna’s “Melrose $226.6 million. Fila said the dis- the long-term strategy adopted by kets, respectively. Overall, total at Mercedes Australian Fashion Week Place” colleague, Kelly Rutherford. continuation of some sub- management, improving the sales apparel revenues amassed to in Sydney last week was Imitation of “It’s so close but a different world.” sidiaries and the depreciation mix despite the volume reduction, $85.7 million in the quarter. of the dollar against the euro with a strong focus on more highly Holding di Partecipazioni negatively subtracted about 20 profitable brands and products Industriali SpA agreed to sell million euros from the top line. and on constant supervision of all the operating businesses of Fila A 410 basis point improvement activities with a view to healthy to an affiliate of U.S. investment in gross profit to 40.4 percent of corporate management. This con- fund Cerebrus for $351 million revenues from 36.3 percent a year firms our conviction that the com- in cash plus the assumption of ago was critical to the boosted pany has all the right fundamen- some debt. The sale is sched- bottom line. Fila said the higher tals to react swiftly and effectively uled to close in June. profit margin was primarily due to unfavorable economic condi- — Dan Burrows Nautica Names Heyn Men’s Sportswear Head NEW YORK — Christopher H. censing subsidiary. Before that, and neckwear business. He has Heyn has been named president he was senior vice president of previously served as president of Nautica International Inc., the Global Merchandising and chief executive of Salant the firm’s men’s sportswear unit. Group at the National Basket- Menswear Group and president He succeeds Don Witkowski, ball Association. Earlier, he was of C.F. Hathaway, a division of who last month joined Michael president of men’s wear market- Warnaco Corp. Kors LLC as president of its ing at Kellwood Corp., where he Heyn reports to Harvey Tara Subkoff, Stephen Petronio collection men’s wear division. was responsible for the global Sanders, chairman, president and a Sydney Dance Co. dancer Since May 2001, Heyn has management of the company’s and ceo of Nautica Enterprises. in one of Subkoff’s costumes. Lisa Rinna and Cindy Crawford been president of Nautica Ap- private label business as well as His successor at Nautica Ap- parel Inc., the global brand li- the Nautica licensed dress shirt parel hasn’t been named. 4 White and navy cotton and rayon T-shirt and navy cotton, rayon and Lycra spandex Get Shorty wrap skirt. NEW YORK — Little dresses and short skirts WWD, MONDAY, MAY 12, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, dominate the look at Armani Collezioni for resort. Even flared pants get the chop. But it’s the details that make the pieces sizzle. Sporty lacing shows up on the backs of abbreviated jackets and cropped pants or on the fronts of shorts. Trapunto stitching accents a charming dress, while subtle asymmetry, smocking, twists and layers of fabric add interest to flirtatious dresses.

Navy and white silk and Cream metallic polyester linen and cotton dress. jacket and shorts. Navy and white linen, wool and nylon jacket and navy cotton, rayon and Lycra cropped pants.

White silk, rayon and polyester dress. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY PORTIA PETERS PORTIA BY MAKEUP AND HAIR ERICKSEN; KYLE BY PHOTOS 5 Thomas Burberry Set for U.K. Redo ‘Fashion Meets Art’ MONDAY,WWD, 2003 12, MAY Continued from page one lion in the long term, with worldwide distribu- targets, at least one analyst estimates the line could tion,” one London-based analyst said. On Madison Avenue reach worldwide sales of $100 million in the long The collection boasts a jaunty flag logo with 1835 term based on the success Thomas Burberry has had emblazoned on it, the year of company founder Jacqueline in Iberia. It would be another important leg in the Thomas Burberry’s birth. Anderson at continuing evolution of the brand being overseen by Both the men’s and women’s collections have a the Whitney. Burberry’s chief executive officer Rose Marie Bravo collegiate feel with chunky knits, rugby jerseys and her team, and would add a hefty sum to the com- and sweatshirts bearing Thomas Burberry logos pany’s sales last year of about $730 million. and patches. There are swingy plaid cotton Thomas Burberry, which is priced 30 to 40 percent miniskirts and slim cotton drill trousers. The out- below Burberry’s core London collection, is aimed at erwear is rugged and sporty: Montgomery coats, women and men 16 to 30 years old. It is designed by military-inspired jackets and other jackets and a newly formed creative team overseen by the coats with industrial hardware closures and tog- brand’s design director Christopher Bailey. gles. Accessories include rucksacks, backpacks Starting in August, it will be sold through U.K. and signature mufflers. stores including Urban Outfitters, Harrods, Harvey While Burberry has over the past five years ex- Nichols and Selfridges — but not at Burberry shops. tended its London collection by injecting more At Selfridges, it will be sold on the third floor along- denim pieces, T-shirts and sporty knits, it views the side Earl Jean, Maharishi and Juicy Couture. There Thomas Burberry line as younger and more casual are no immediate plans for stand-alone Thomas Bur- than much of the London collection. In addition, berry stores, the company said. Thomas Burberry does not use the signature Bravo said it was time to bring back the Thomas Burberry plaid, which is reserved for the London Burberry line in the U.K. after a two-year absence. and Prorsum lines. The line was put on hold in Britain as Bravo’s team Technically, this is the third go-round for focused on revamping the core London collection Thomas Burberry in the U.K. The line was Ralph and also the development of its Prorsum designer launched in September 1988 as a women’s and Lauren line. But the firm continued to sell Thomas men’s separates and outerwear collection priced 20 and Burberry in Spain and Portugal, which are its two to 30 percent below the main line. At the time, Evelyn Lauder main markets. Thomas Burberry was introduced in the U.K. mar- perusing pictures. PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH KEITH BY PHOTOS PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH KEITH BY PHOTOS By Anamaria Wilson just doesn’t want to pose for it,” she laughed. NEW YORK — Those art enthu- Chanel executives Arie Kopel- siasts with a penchant for shop- man and Barbara Cirkva feted ping made another trek up artists Thomas Lanigan-Schmidt Madison Avenue for the fourth and Christopher Tanner, whose annual “Where Fashion Meets works were on display at both the Art” event last Thursday night. adjoining Chanel stores. Kopel- Ralph Lauren was on hand to man noted that Tanner’s use of celebrate the works of photogra- pailletes in a piece entitled phers Victor Skrebneski and Ron “Coco, 2003” was “intrinsic to van Dongen, which were on dis- what Karl [Lagerfeld] does.” play at his Rhinelander Mansion. On the chilly, damp evening, Lauren warmed to the topic of revelers traipsed up and down his old friend Skrebneski. the rest of Madison Avenue view- “We have a mutual admira- ing original pieces from archi- tion for each other,” said Lauren. tect Rudolf M. Schindler at “He likes my clothes, and I like Calvin Klein; bright, tropical his photographs.” Proving that paintings by Hunt Slonem at point, Skrebneski was dressed in Givenchy, and works by artist Jon a herringbone suit by the design- Sarkin at David Yurman. er and has in the past shot Ralph The evening ended at the Lauren Purple Label ads. Whitney Museum gala, which Leonard and Evelyn Lauder was hosted by Jacqueline Ander- stopped by to support Skrebneski, son, wife of Whitney director who worked with the Lauders for Maxwell Anderson. The hostess, over 25 years. “I’m here for dressed in a black Dolce & Gab- Victor,” said Leonard Lauder. bana corset with a fringed skirt, “He’s a genius.” accessorized her “modern Ed- At Dolce & Gabbana, which wardian look” with Fred Leigh- “We wanted first to digest ket via a 1,200-square-foot de- featured portraits from artist Anh ton chandelier earrings and a the changes we’re making partment in Burberry’s flagship Duong, party-goers crowded in to tiara. For the live auction, guests with the core lines, and then store on Regent Street. The see a youthful Linda Evangelista bid on Fred Leighton diamond focus on Thomas Burberry,” plan was to wholesale the line as well as Duong’s renderings of earrings worn by Hilary Swank she told WWD in a telephone worldwide and create a string fashionable offspring like Anna to this year’s Oscars — by night’s interview. “We also wanted to of in-store shops. Two years Wintour’s daughter Bee Shaffer end, they garnered $15,000. rethink the Thomas Burberry later, it was available in 22 and Anne McNally’s daughter Silent auction items included a line, and ensure that it was co- Burberry stores in Europe as Jessica. Duong and Evangelista, made-to-measure suit from herent with the other Bur- well as Selfridges. both in head-to-toe Dolce & Ralph Lauren, a Camellia ring berry collections. We wanted However, the planned ag- Gabbana ensembles, greeted art from Chanel and a Medusa bed it to evolve naturally out of gressive rollout never oc- enthusiasts and fashion followers spread from Versace. those collections.” curred. At the time, industry alike. Duong, who is in the midst Approximately $50,000 was In the past, the Thomas Bur- observers said that Burberry of doing a portrait of Domenico raised for the Whitney Family berry line was item driven had a hard time keeping the Dolce, said Stefano Gabbana Programs, boosted by a $15,000 rather than design driven, Thomas Burberry line sepa- would like one as well. “But he pledge from American Express. and was focused mainly on rate from its main collection men’s wear. and was concerned that Thom- Bravo said that plans to dis- as Burberry was eating into tribute Thomas Burberry be- the sales of its core business — yond the U.K. were still in their which was struggling to cap- Hilfiger Wins $11M in Goody’s Suit early stages. “We may test a few ture a younger customer. But items in the U.S., but for the in 1996, Burberry opened the NEW YORK — The U.S. District Goody’s did not knowingly sell moment we’re focusing on the first freestanding store for Court for the Northern District of counterfeit merchandise, and U.K. market.” It is understood Thomas Burberry, a 1,400- Georgia on Friday awarded $11 we strongly disagree with the that the next step for Thomas square-foot unit on Regent million in damages to Tommy court’s finding of willful blind- Burberry will be the rest of Street, not far from its flag- Hilfiger Corp. from Goody’s ness. We also vigorously dispute continental Europe. ship. It was supposed to be the Family Clothing Inc. the court’s finding that we in- Bravo said the line has first in a string of stores world- The award consists of $2.1 mil- tended to copy and derive bene- been a solid success in Spain wide, including New York, but lion in damages for the sale of fit from the Tommy Hilfiger and Portugal and generates the plans never took shape counterfeit T-shirts and nearly $9 trademark.” about 15 percent of Burberry’s and the line was put on hold in million for trademark infringe- Goody’s said it has insurance overall sales in the Iberian Britain after Bravo and her ment involving the labeling of coverage in excess of the amount peninsula. Prices of the new The Thomas Burberry collection is gearing team came onboard. Mean- three lines of private label jeans of the damage award. Its insur- collection range from $256 to up for its August debut in U.K. stores. Here, while, it continued to grow in formerly used by the 330-unit ers, however, have reserved $478 for jackets, and from $96 images from the fall-winter ad campaign. Spain and Portugal, where Knoxville, Tenn.-based retailer. their rights regarding their obli- to $208 for knitwear. Burberry’s then-licensee In a statement, Goody’s chair- gation to indemnify Goody’s, and Based on its success in Iberia, analysts believe (which it later acquired) built the line into a major man and chief executive officer so there can be no assurances Burberry could have another hit on its hands. “It casualwear business competing against brands Robert M. Goodfriend said: “In that the insurance will be avail- should not be difficult to bring sales to $100 mil- like Gap and Polo. the matter of the T-shirts, able, the company said. 6 Innerwear Report May Market’s Mixed Message

By Karyn Monget NEW YORK — The May market

WWD, MONDAY, MAY 12, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, could be summed up as anticlimactic. It literally was feast or famine, with some showrooms bustling with traffic, and others relatively empty. May typically is a pint-sized market that focuses primarily on Valentine’s Day programs and gift-giving items. But this year, it was smaller than usual, with the absence of scores of specialty boutiques that traditionally shop for immediate merchandise. It was a decisive time for big- name brands to finalize the lion’s share of fall and holiday orders, and many said they did. But smaller to midsize firms, as well as those that don’t have that illusive “newness” in assort- ments or a national brand pres- ence, are expected to continue waiting for last-minute orders PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO JOHN BY PHOTOS until the end of the month. Natori’s graphic silk kimono; Cinema Eteile’s stretch lace cami and pants; French Jenny’s novelty top and satin cargo pants, and Jockey’s uplift cami. While major department and specialty retailers did make the However, the highlight of the tions that lend a vintage look to Resuscitated cartoon char- time that we showed 1/20 rounds, a number of makers of market was the tremendous effort sleepwear labels like Eileen acters like Betty Boop, Speedy through 3/20 deliveries com- branded sleepwear and daywear by manufacturers to present more West at Charles Komar & Sons. Gonzales and Pepe La Pew from plete and together, and retailers were finding new strategies in fashion, whether it was through Sheer, printed peignoirs French Jenny at Richard Leeds really liked that.” dealing with the increased pres- fresh, upbeat colors, unique that have a sophisticated glam International. Lipton said two bra and day- sure and competition of private prints, unusual textured treat- look, such as the Boudoir New fusing and ultrasonic wear collections by DKNY label, which in some cases is ments, or innovation in new fab- Collection at Movie Star. technology at Bali that features Underwear were well received: being pushed to more than 60 rics like lightweight microfibers. An evolution of Asian- firm-control undergarments that a seamless geometric lace group percent of total sleepwear Top ideas include: inspired tea-party prints in day- are ultralight and sheer. in aqua, black and white, and a inventory for 2004. Ivory and white combina- wear and sleepwear at Natori. Contemporary new packag- woven and knit group of layered ing and display concepts for stripe and floral prints. Other women’s and men’s underwear top ideas included an expansion at Jockey International. of DKNY Body, which featured An updated ad campaign at a signature logo pointelle group Maidenform that links the past of loungewear in buttercup, The Moore Company Textile Group and present. slate blue, lilac and medium ! Tobie Garfinkle, vice presi- pink, and “cheeky” boy-cut h Activewear dent of merchandising for Lily briefs and coordinating camis of tc of France at the Global Intimate stretch cross-dyed galloon lace. e Apparel unit of VF Corp., said: “We continue to trend well at r re t “We had an upbeat market. But retail with the yoga-inspired o s I know that’s not the case across Body Spa line by Donna Karan m n the board. The Lily of France Intimates, and we are featuring g a brand is trending well right now more fabrications that are anti- n h at retail, with ideas like the bacterial and wick moisture i t Dazzler group and value and away from the body,” said Lipton. h t e style products.” Manette Scheininger, senior t Swimwear o a Barbara Lipton, vice presi- vice president of merchandising n dent of merchandising and de- and marketing at Maidenform m sign for the licensed DKNY Inc., said the company will 's i e t Underwear and Donna Karan spend between $6 million and $7 r in Intimates lines at Wacoal million on a new ad campaign e America, said, “It was the first created by Laspata/DeCaro. It Th

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breaks in the fourth quarter. The concept is an oversized it’s too late in the season,” said Tienturier. ready-to-wear organization,” said the spokeswoman. M logo in fashion colors on a “Clearly, it’s a showroom market, not a trade show Paccione’s exit follows a “reshaping” of the black-and-white ground. Tag market. We are here to serve the needs of the team headed by Mindy Meads, executive vice lines with dreamy-looking INTIMATE NOTES market and not to sell square footage.” president of apparel, according to Sears. lifestyle visuals in soft black- Tienturier said the group will continue to stage Paccione joined Sears in September 1996 as and-white photography include: NO FRENCH SHOW: Lingerie Americas, the French- the trade fair twice a year, the first show in gmm of intimate apparel. She was named vice “Last Night I Dreamed He Loves owned-and-operated intimate apparel trade show August and the second in March. The fair made president and gmm of rtw in September 1999. In Me,” “I Dreamed Everyday Was in the U.S., has canceled its November fair in its debut in the U.S. market last August. this role, she was responsible for special sizes in Sunday,” and “Ever Wake Up New York. “We are planning a fashion show at the sportswear, juniors, maternity, outerwear, dresses From A Dream So Real You’re The trade show, which is backed by such Paris- August edition,” he said. and misses’ apparel. In August, the Sears intimate Convinced It’s True?” based powerhouses as Promincor, France Ligne apparel division was restored to her responsibilities. Regarding product, Schein- and Defi, the government-sponsored force behind PACCIONE EXIT SEARS: Diane Paccione, vice Paccione is a veteran of intimate apparel inger said: “We had a lot of re- the label La Mode de France, was to have been president and general merchandise manager of retailing, who started in sales at Bloomingdale’s in quests to do a value-priced [bra] staged at the Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman women’s apparel and intimate apparel at Sears 1976. While working part-time through college, line. It’s a way for department Building during the transitional-early fall market. Roebuck & Co., left the company Thursday, said a she was fond of saying she was hit by the “retail stores to be more competitive. Contacted at the Lingerie Americas offices in spokeswoman for Sears. bug.” She spent much of her career at May So we came up with the I Value Cos Cob, Conn., Jean-Luc Tienturier, chief Paccione could not be reached Friday, and a Merchandising Co., the buying arm of The May Luxury collection.” Suggested operating officer, said there was a “simple successor has not been named. Department Stores Co., based in St. Louis. She retail price for the bras — which reason” for the cancellation. “For the interim, Jeff Elliott, divisional joined May in 1980 as an assistant market include a ribbon embellished “We did a survey and 80 percent of the people merchandise manager of juniors and dresses, will representative and rose through the ranks to her foam-cup bra; a soft cup and an surveyed told us November is a small market and provide day-to-day support and direction for the most recent job. underwire style of heathered micro Modal, and a low-cut demi lace number — is $14.99. “All in all, the market shaped up well for us,” said David Komar, executive vice president of marketing at Charles Komar & Sons. “The Eileen West sleepwear collection was well received, and because of that, we’ve decided to devote a lot more marketing resources to promote her brand.” Komar added that the main incentives for promoting the Eileen West name are national recognition as a sleepwear brand, which he described as "Can you “unusual” in the sleepwear field, and limited distribution, which imagine “will empower the brand.” Victor Lee, president of NAP Inc., said the market turnout a rainbow was mixed. without green in it?" “We saw all of the major stores who finalized fall and Maxx and Jack Hockenberry, holiday orders, but only a hand- born 1994 and 1996, USA ful of boutiques came in,” said Lee. “The major stores were open to information exchange and they were relatively upbeat about where their business is going. They were interested in previewing spring 2004.” Marvin Backer, chief executive officer of Flora Nikrooz Lingerie, said, “My Mideast accounts normally come in May. But this year, I have to do business by e-mail or phone.” However, Backer said he ex- pects a number of accounts from Kuwait and the United Arab Emirates to show up at the Lyon, Mode City show in Lyon, France, scheduled Aug. 30-Sept. 1. Susan Pink, senior vice president of the department store division for French Jenny sleepwear at Richard Leeds Inter- national, observed, “The retailers who are flowing newness — not going back to the same old thing — are the retailers who are doing well right now. The ones who are not doing well are the ones who are not choosing newness. I think bravery is rewarded through retail sales.” Among the key ideas at French Jenny are knit chemises with whimsical contrasting ruffle trim and polyester satin cargo pants paired with novelty T-shirts with a “love” logo, she said. Howard Radziminsky, senior "It just doesn’t work." vice president of sales and merchandising at Movie Star Inc., A world that works. Not a world that runs dry, runs down, runs out. That’s the idea behind Ingeo™. The world’s said reaction was strong to a first fibers made from annually renewable resources like corn, rather than petroleum. The performance we’ve “very elaborate pink and red come to depend on from synthetic fibers with the care and respect for the earth on which we really do and pink and black story” for Valentine’s Day selling. depend. We’re out to revolutionize clothing and fashion by not changing the world at all. Join us. Even if your “Stretch lace is a major clas- favorite color is blue. www.ingeofibers.com or 1 800 66 INGEO (USA) or +1 989 633 1746 (Worldwide). sification, as well as printed meshs and burnout velvets,” said The world’s first man-made fiber from 100% annually renewable resources. Radziminsky. 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The ing up last week’s accessories market. black-tie event, now in its Reenie Brown of FABB Colored accessories of all kinds have lured in 14th year, raised more than awards R.J. Graziano. shoppers this spring, and companies throughout $700,000 for One World, One the industry are looking to bold hues, especially Wish, a charity designed to red and pink, to help carry them through fall and help women and children holiday, as well. Buyers combing through last who are victims of wars, as week’s market and the two industry trade shows, well as Coalition for the AccessoriesTheShow and Accessories Circuit, Homeless and No More found plenty of other trend options from which to Homeless Pets NYC. The choose, including ribbons in handbags, belts and event also honors companies watches, as well as oversized and chandelier ear- and designers that have ex- rings and Art Deco-inspired jewelry, much of it celled in accessories, and with semiprecious stones. this year’s honorees were Although last week’s market was billed as fall Target Stores, R.J. Graziano and holiday, a number of buyers were looking for and Marie Claire magazine. summer offerings, in part because they have kept “I started my business inventory extra lean in recent months. with absolutely no knowl- “People are still asking for immediates, and in edge or experience of any- an economy like this, you bend over backward and thing whatsoever,” said do what you have to do to support your stores,” Graziano, recalling how he said designer Gerard Yosca, who showed a variety began in the business 27 of chandelier earrings and statement jewelry. years ago. “I am so thrilled Roy Kean, owner of showroom Accessories Citrus-colored jewelry was a big trend at last week’s to receive this recognition That Matter, said, “I’ve never brought so many market. Here, a necklace with pink sapphires and tonight. And I am especially summer goods to a May show.” rubies, from Laura Gibson. pleased to realize that inde- Raquel Welch and Susan Lucci The mood was relatively upbeat at the shows, pendent designer companies with Robert Rosenblatt of HSN. although a number of exhibitors lamented the fact A leather Tumi’s can actually compete and that Accessories Circuit, held at Pier 94 here, ran bag from orange grow successfully in a crowd- Tuesday to Thursday, as opposed to starting on Deborah nylon ed branded world.” Sunday as it usually does. The dates of the Circuit Lewis. tote. The event drew more were changed due to scheduling difficulties. celebrities than usual, as However, the next edition will start on Sunday, Raquel Welch, Susan Lucci, Aug. 3, according to Elyse Kroll, president of ENK Leon Hall and Rue International, the show’s organizer. Accessories- McClanahan all hobnobbed TheShow ended its three-day run at the Jacob K. with the boisterous crowd. Javits Center on Tuesday. “I am starting to fall in Meanwhile, Sabine Barrett, owner of Gisele’s love with hats again,” Unique Shop, an apparel and accessories store in McClanahan told WWD. Warren, N.J., was among those stocking up on “Hats complete an outfit.” merchandise for the warmer months at the Among other events, Item Accessories Circuit. “We still don’t see business Showroom held a party to Donna Marie Cipollone of Burberry picking up just yet,” she noted. “However, we are launch the new line of Rita with Francine Klein and Sheila Aimette buying a lot of chandelier earrings. More than Wilcox bags, which incorpo- of Bloomingdale’s. anything, we see people buying accessories to items such as a pink suede totes and clutches, as rate grosgrain ribbon into the wear with their old clothes, rather than buying well as tan leather bags with flower appliqués, design and feature materials such as faux Persian lamb and patent new clothes.” some of which have pearl accents. Wholesale leather, said designer Patty Schmitz. And while fur was shown in a number of price points for the line range from $45 to $110. In addition, showroom owner Cynthia O’Connor and Barry booths, not all buyers were jumping into the trend. Among firms showing new merchandise in their Kieselstein-Cord held an event to celebrate the designer’s silver “Fur is big here, but not in my town,” said showrooms was Tumi, which continues to evolve line, which is now being repped Janice Durand, owner of Little Luxuries, an ac- with products that are more fashionable and styl- by O’Connor’s showroom. And cessories boutique in Madison, Wis. “We are sell- ish, including tote and messenger handbags in Helen Welsh held a soiree in ing a lot of hair accessories at the moment. Based suede and wool, as well as microfibers. And Jones her showroom to celebrate her on this winter, I am stocking up on lots of hats and New York showed off a range of leather, unstruc- new Primo Firenze collection, scarves for fall.” tured handbags in bold hues in its core Jones which she sources and manu- A number of newcomers made their debut this brand. The company has injected more fashion factures in Italy. market, including Jenki, a handbag firm based in into the line, including clutch styles and a satchel “I went to the Florence Aledo, Tex., which showed handbags made of vin- that comes with a detachable wristlet bag inside. Chamber of Commerce, and told tage magazine and newspaper collages. The bags, At Judith Jack, part of Jones’ Victoria & Co. di- them I had a showroom and which are now at the Fragments showroom, carry vision, the core marcasite jewelry has been updat- wanted to do something special wholesale price points between $40 and $175. The ed to include styles such as chandelier earrings, as for the market,” said Welsh. line is expected to notch up first-year sales of well as individual charms. Marcasite rings and “Buyers aren’t traveling as much, $500,000, said owner and designer Shelley necklaces with pearls were also on the agenda. so this Helen Welsh collection is Upchurch. Handbag designer Julie Haus-Alkire “We are going back to our heritage and classic Gina Paoloni, Patty Schmitz and a one-stop accessories resource.” was another newcomer with her Julie Haus col- roots,” noted Beth Vogel, who has recently taken Theresa Barone at Item Showroom. — M.K.

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• JAVITS CONVENTION CENTER • HILTON TIMES SQUARE • FFANY MEMBER SHOWROOMS FFa NY FASHION FOOTWEAR ASSOCIATION OF NEW YORK Tel: 212-751-6422 Fax: 212-751-6404 e-mail: [email protected] Buyer pre-registration online at www.ffany.org ADVERTISEMENT Sizing Up The Apparel Market

By now it’s no secret: The plus size woman • The plus size population will rise to 42 percent of from a size 8 in 1985, NPDFashionworld reported. is today’s woman, and she has tremendous the total market by 2009, a 47 percent increase; “Is thin still in? Apparently not!” stated Marshal buying power. • As many as 32 percent of American plus size Cohen, NPDFashionworld co-president. “Americans With rising market power, plus size women women are college graduates, earning over are getting larger, and they don’t seem to mind. are demanding — and finally getting — a growing $50,000 a year; Over the past 15 years Americans have consistently array of full size apparel, lingerie, legwear, and But the supply of fashionable, quality plus reported that being thin is less important to them. other items. size merchandise is falling far short of demand, The plus size market has been one of the fastest They want fashion, comfort, fit, stretch and sources contend. growing categories in recent years, and presents style, and they want it now! According to Sue Umans and Elaine Berkman, the greatest opportunities.” According to NPDFashionworld, women’s large directors and merchandise managers of Doneger As a result, manufacturers and retailers are size apparel sales in 2002 were $16.6 billion, Buying Connection, a division of The Doneger increasingly giving the market more style and making up almost 20 percent of the $83.5 billion Group, this void tends to lie in the casual clothing selection: “Today, plus size women and teens no in sales in the total women’s apparel market. By market, largely because “the merchandise offered longer have to search out particular stores or unit volume, large size sales last year were over has become too junior-minded, making it not departments catering to their needs. Popular $6.1 billion, or 20 percent of total women’s age appropriate. designers not known for plus sizes in the past are apparel unit volume. “At one time there was a void in career realizing the potential of the market and starting The plus size market has redefined every aspect moderate update, but that is being addressed, to accept consumers’ shifting plus size needs.” of the apparel industry, totally impacting how and many moderate fashion is designed, constructed and marketed. career vendors are now According to research, its influence is growing: presenting merchandise Emme Legwear Emme Legwear • As many as 65 million American women now that is younger in attitude wear a size 12 or larger; and more modern,” they • By 2005, 27 percent of U.S. women will wear reported. However, the a size 16; market still remains • Despite the media’s emphasis on thin women, “tremendously 40 percent of American women now wear a size underdeveloped,” 14 or larger, representing one third of the entire leaving many American U.S. female population; women dissatisfied. • Plus size market revenue should rise to $47 The average billion by 2005, up an astounding 49 percent American woman since 2000; now is a size 12, up

When it comes to hosiery, reported Ronnie Strasser, president of Phantom Industries and its new Emme Legwear line, 27 percent of the market is generated by plus size women, but just 5-9 percent of floor space is devoted to them. “Hosiery is a $1.2 billion market, and the plus size market is an important one,” he said. “We feel that there is certainly opportunity in legwear, especially with Emme, who has created such a strong brand.” According to Strasser, the Emme Legwear line was developed with extensive consumer input, fulfilling the market’s desire for fashion. “When you look at the plus size market out there, there are limited fashion offerings. There is no other brand that creates the loyalty and commitment of this market niche, which is increasing so rapidly.” With Emme’s expertise and credibility in the plus size market, and Phantom’s expertise in legwear, the brand fills the three key issues plus size women most seek: “Fit, fit and more fit!” The new lines, which will hit retail in Fall ’03, offer consumers a brand that features quality, luxurious, sexy products, as well as Lycra.® TheEmme Collection has been created exclusively for department stores, while the True Beauty line will be featured exclusively at JC Penney stores. Working toward an end-all goal of natural fit, Emme Legwear features 30 percent more stretch materials, offering both vertical and horizontal stretch in the waistband, panty, thigh guard, run guard and gusset, which now bears the Coolmax® Active logo. The line also features the control-top waistless option in its microfiber tights and sheers, as well as a Performance Panty product with shapers. Comfortable fit also is guaranteed through a broad range of sizes — 1, 2 and 3, offered in Short and Tall lengths. Phantom’s high-quality fibers allow for maximum sheerness and ensure long-lasting support. And of course, the consumer can always be assured she will look fashionable when Emme’s involved. The collections feature, in addition to ultra sheers and tights, the Performance Panty, fish nets, and trouser socks offered in basic colors as well as four fashion prints. And because of her devoted following in the full size market, Emme’s photo will appear on packaging, hangtags and retail displays. Emme Collection Legwear will range in retail price from $8 for a 2-pack of knee-highs, to $16 for fishnet stockings and other high-fashion products. 11 Waning Apparel-Makers Jobs Piaget Honors Trudie Styler MONDAY,WWD, 2003 12, MAY Continued from page 2 skills, as a result of Federal relief NEW YORK — When Piaget is going,” she said. “For New funds for those affected by the picked Trudie Styler as the recip- Richard Gere, York, what’s critical is that you Sept. 11 attacks, are now trying to ient of its first Magic Reflections Trudie Styler keep the creative community, get jobs outside the industry. Award, the jeweler’s executives and Yves Piaget. the design and sales aspects.” “A lot of the garment workers couldn’t have anticipated the sur- Bruce Raynor, president of took advantage of that,” Lai said. prise they got at Wednesday’s UNITE, contended that it is im- While city apparel manufac- awards presentation. portant for New York to retain turing saw the biggest percentage Styler was honored for her manufacturing jobs if it wants to drop in employment for the year work with the Rainforest Foun- keep its role as a fashion center. ended March 31, it was by no dation, which she and her hus- “If New York is to survive as means the only sector to experi- band, Sting, founded in 1989. As the fashion capital of the world, it ence declines. Department store Philippe Léopold-Metzger, Pia- needs to be much more protec- employment was off 10.4 percent get’s chief executive officer, got tive of the industry than it has,” to 16,300, though the overall re- ready to hand her the award, he said. He said the “crisis” the tail sector saw its payroll rise 0.3 Sting suddenly appeared onstage manufacturing sector has been percent to 262,400. to present the actress and movie facing for some time has been ex- Other big losers were the producer with a labyrinth-like a rainforest-like oasis with ponds, At the event, several Broad- acerbated by the weak economy. hard-hit telecommunications sec- pendant necklace set with white waterfalls and grass fixtures that way stars including Marva Hicks Teddy Lai, executive director tor, which saw its workforce fall diamonds and pink sapphires. displayed its newest collection, from “The Lion King,” B.J. Cros- of the Greater Blouse, Skirt and 19.5 percent to 27,300, and the “People often come up and the 30-piece Magic Reflections. by from “Smokey Joe’s Café” and Undergarment Association, a motion picture and video indus- thank me for the work I’ve done The line draws heavily from na- “Ragtime” lead LaChanze per- Chinatown contractors’ group, tries, which saw employment fall for the Rainforest, when all I’ve ture, with pieces inspired by leaf, formed such songs as The said actual industry employment 18.7 percent to 29,100. really done is sung a few songs tree, waterfall and fountain motifs Beatles’ “The Long and Winding may not be as low as indicated The city apparel-manufactur- and tried to look cool standing also featured in the company’s Road,” U2’s “I Still Haven’t by state statistics. “Some of them ing workforce has been in de- next to her,” said Sting, whose new ads shot by Torkil Gudnason. Found What I’m Looking For,” may not be recorded,” he said. cline for decades, but the rate of wife looked awestruck, since The division of Richemont also Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to “Some [workers] may be illegal.” decline has accelerated sharply she expected him to be in recently formed an alliance with Love” and Prince’s “Kiss.” While he acknowledged that over the past two years. In March London at the time. “She makes the Rainforest Foundation. Among the 350 guests were as many as one-third of the state’s 1993, the industry payroll stood me look good.” “The partnership with the Richard Gere, Bai Ling, Alek garment factories have closed at 80,500. “The whole goal of tonight’s Rainforest Foundation works be- Wek, Angela Lindvall, Ingrid over the past few years, he con- Statewide, apparel-manufac- event is to raise more awareness cause our campaign and new Seynhaeve, Muffie Potter Aston tended that lately, Chinatown con- turing employment was off 15.7 of the great problem that we jewelry line Magic Reflections is and Laura Haring. The silent tractors have had a hard time re- percent to 39,800. have that challenges us all…that inspired by nature,” said Thomas auction, which featured 14 items cruiting as many workers as they The total city payroll stood at our earth cannot be taken for Van Der Kallen, president of including an African safari and a have needed. That, he said, is be- 3.5 million, while total state em- granted,” said Styler. Piaget North America. “We guitar signed by Sting, raised cause workers who were given ployment was 8.3 million, off 0.8 For the occasion, Piaget trans- thought it was a good gesture to about $50,000 for the foundation. training in English and other job percent.

formed the Manhattan Center into support nature.” — Marc Karimzadeh PHOTOPATRICK BY MCMULLEN

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www.merchandisemart.com 12 Financial Delia’s 4th-Qtr. Results In After Delay Weekly Stock Index 52-Week Sales Amt High Low P/E (00’s) Last Change By Jennifer Weitzman with JLP Daisy LLC, an affiliate “The fourth quarter contin- Broadline Retailers of Schottenstein Stores Corp. ued to be impacted significantly 5.28 3.37 Bon-Ton Stores 6.3 317 3.97 -0.38 NEW YORK — Delia’s Corp.’s It said it now “believes that it by the same product and plan- 31.20 12.32 Dillard Dept. 8.7 33628 14.18 0.42 fourth-quarter earnings are out, can secure” the additional capital ning miscues that negatively af- 44.10 23.51 Federated 9.7 94432 32.00 1.47 but the forms aren’t all in yet. and mortgage refinancing that fected our back-to-school and fall After a 43-day delay, the New would allow it to receive an un- business,” Stephen Kahn, chief 3.58 0.94 Gottschalk’s - 1645 1.42 0.29 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 12, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, York-based teen retailer finally qualified audit opinion for inclu- executive, acknowledged in a 25.70 14.07 J.C. Penney 13.9 227775 17.15 -0.08 released results showing a dou- sion in its annual report. Filing statement. “Off-trend and over- 37.08 17.81 May Dept. Stores 12.4 61492 21.73 0.15 bling of its fourth-quarter losses with the SEC is planned by May 16. planned merchandise con- 15.65 6.66 Saks 18.5 24005 8.95 -0.06 on Friday and said it is working The firm, which sells apparel, tributed to significant margin de- 59.90 18.25 Sears 6.0 208347 27.21 -0.69 to secure financing that would accessories and home furnish- terioration and depressed sales 44.13 24.90 Target 19.1 244894 35.27 1.95 allow it to file its overdue annu- ings through its catalog and 67 throughout the fourth quarter.” 4.35 1.48 Value City 235.0 4646 2.40 0.25 al report without auditor quali- stores, said for the three months However, by mid-March, he 59.30 43.72 Wal-Mart 30.4 386657 55.80 -0.35 fication by the end of this week. ended Feb 1, its losses fattened said, gross margins had re- The firm was originally slated to $12.4 million, or 27 cents a di- turned to healthier levels and Softline Retailers to release its results on March 27, luted share, including a $2.7 mil- all channels were showing signs 33.19 17.05 Ann Taylor 12.7 31451 23.27 0.14 but was delayed twice as it sought lion or 6-cent charge for a facili- of improvement. 1.82 0.55 Bluefly - 1615 0.84 0.02 $2 million in additional capital ty shutdown and store impair- The teen retailer said it also 23.50 15.40 Burlington Coat 11.0 3553 17.52 0.02 and a refinancing of the $2.9 mil- ment charges. The company also has taken steps to cut costs, sta- 8.67 2.70 Charming Shoppes 11.4 21591 4.78 0.30 lion mortgage on its Hanover, Pa., incurred expenses of $1.6 mil- bilize its balance sheet and re- 24.49 13.02 Chico’s FAS 26.9 104073 21.00 -2.90 distribution center. Because of the lion, or 4 cents, for inventory reduce inventory levels. Over the 17.50 11.06 Dress Barn 14.2 1419 14.75 -0.11 current uncertainty of its finances, serves on winter-holiday goods past six months, corporate staff it has yet to file an annual report, and costs related to recent finan- has been cut by one-third. 16.00 8.20 Foot Locker 10.0 100971 11.53 0.62 Form 10-K, with the Securities and cial arrangements. In last year’s For the full year, Delia’s report- 18.03 8.35 Gap 31.4 630704 17.15 0.63 Exchange Commission. quarter, the company reported a ed a loss of $19 million, or 42 cents 78.83 44.00 Kohl’s 27.9 393139 52.62 -2.83 Delia’s previously negotiated loss of $6 million, or 14 cents. a diluted share, compared with a 22.34 10.88 Limited Brands 14.1 83437 14.02 0.10 an amendment of its existing Overall, quarterly sales inched loss of $28.5 million, or 70 cents. 39.66 23.75 Neiman Marcus Group 11.9 3933 32.53 0.78 $20 million, three-year secured up 1.6 percent to $49.8 million Excluding the benefit of an ac- 26.87 15.00 Nordstrom 24.0 76374 16.02 -1.25 credit facility with Wells Fargo over $49 million. Retail sales in- counting change, the loss for the 23.99 10.81 Pacific Sunwear 23.2 60234 23.38 0.46 Retail Finance and received creased 35 percent, driven by new most recent year totaled $34.4 mil- 47.77 31.85 Ross Stores 15.5 92588 40.09 2.14 $16.5 million in cash against fu- store openings, while direct sales lion, or 76 cents. Sales dropped 4.2 8.40 5.65 Syms - 802 7.27 0.17 ture royalties in a wholesaling decreased 16 percent on a 23 per- percent to $137.6 million over 39.64 20.59 Talbots 13.5 13018 27.98 0.21 and licensing venture arranged cent reduction in circulation. year-ago sales of $143.7 million. 22.00 15.30 TJX 17.6 146587 19.12 0.29

Vendors 57.49 41.55 Alberto Culver 19.4 17026 50.50 1.20 59.30 43.49 Avon 25.3 68826 57.09 -0.66 Movie Star Net Grows Fivefold 23.40 13.65 Cherokee 10.1 500 16.00 -0.63 45.52 17.19 Coach 29.8 41369 45.50 1.40 NEW YORK — Hefty sales gains more than a quarter, escalating debt and interest expense posi- 48.76 27.46 Columbia Sprtswr 17.0 27753 46.33 -0.86 and the completion of its conver- 25.2 percent, to $16.9 million tioned us to lever the effect of 38.30 25.20 Estee Lauder 35.7 38634 33.10 -0.67 sion to offshore sourcing helped from $13.5 million. Contributing higher sales levels, culminating in 24.61 14.99 Fossil 15.5 11766 19.98 0.84 Movie Star Inc.’s profits soar more to the bottom-line improvement impressive bottom-line growth,” 8.49 4.49 G-III 100.0 72 6.00 -0.25 than fivefold in the third quarter. was the conversion to overseas he added in a statement. 99.45 82.53 Gucci 35.0 7601 97.20 1.11 For the three months ended sourcing, which lifted gross mar- For the first nine months of 7.75 3.30 Guess - 1976 4.90 0.79 March 31, the New York-based gins 520 basis points. the fiscal year, Movie Star re- 41.68 25.61 Jones Apparel 10.9 59106 28.35 -0.04 manufacturer of women’s sleep- “As a result of new and im- ported earnings of $2.4 million, 32.50 19.70 Kellwood 76.8 8087 29.88 -0.17 wear, leisurewear and lounge- proved offshore sourcing, our de- or 16 cents, versus last year’s 29.95 16.00 Kenneth Cole 15.5 10396 20.71 -2.49 wear said net income swelled sign and merchandise team has profits of $876,000, or 6 cents, 34.29 23.55 Liz Claiborne 14.6 39930 33.68 0.67 433.9 percent to $961,000, or 6 been able to put new product to- which included $43,000 of in- 13.25 3.67 Mossimo 4.7 1784 4.16 0.18 cents a diluted share. By com- gether that has allowed us to open come from discontinued opera- 25.20 14.60 Movado 12.9 541 21.53 0.60 parison, last year the company new avenues of distribution,” said tions. Sales for the period rose 14.50 8.06 Nautica 16.6 12072 10.10 -0.89 recorded earnings of $180,000, chief executive officer Mel Knigin. 13.2 percent to $49.4 million 37.30 19.50 Oxford 12.4 5134 36.66 0.31 or 1 cent. “Moreover, consolidating our dis- from $43.6 million a year ago. 16.46 10.80 Phillips-Van Heusen 12.2 2168 13.33 -0.24 Sales for the period grew by tribution facilities and reducing — Dan Burrows 29.65 16.49 Polo Ralph Lauren 14.4 11282 22.86 -0.13 34.34 16.59 Quiksilver 19.4 18238 17.15 0.54 Biggest Percentage Changes 6.17 1.85 Revlon - 2741 3.69 0.42 For Week Ending May 9 WWDStock Market Index for Week Ending May 9 19.99 13.14 Russell Corp. 13.3 5232 19.95 0.48 Gainers Close Change 6.50 3.33 Tarrant Apparel - 484 3.82 -0.18 Galey & Lord 0.04 33.33 Composite: 107.20 Broadline Stores: 109.29 Softline Stores: 100.51 16.50 5.61 Tommy Hilfiger 10.1 75452 7.58 -0.70 Gottschalk’s 1.42 25.66 29.55 4.14 Tropical Sportswear - 6588 6.00 0.27 Guess 4.90 19.22 45.09 31.50 VF Corp. 11.0 24964 37.38 -1.24 Revlon 3.69 12.84 14.10 8.80 Warnaco - 8380 10.84 -0.16 Cone Mills 1.62 11.72 -0.15 0.13 -0.72 Losers Close Change Textiles Vendors: 104.76 Textiles: 107.76 Chico’s FAS 21.00 -12.13 4.25 1.21 Cone Mills 5.5 2091 1.62 0.17 Kenneth Cole 20.71 -10.73 Index base of 100 is 6.15 1.75 Delta Woodside 13.6 836 3.38 -0.07 Bon-Ton Stores 3.97 -8.71 keyed to closing prices 0.13 0.03 Galey & Lord - 220 0.04 0.01 Tommy Hilfiger 7.58 -8.45 of Dec. 31, 2002. 8.00 2.25 Guilford Mills - 82 2.60 -0.10 -0.58 -0.21 Nautica 10.10 -8.10 11.47 4.25 Unifi 200.0 7690 5.98 -0.09 13 WWD, MONDAY,WWD, 2003 12, MAY

executive of Selfridges who is reportedly putting together a possible for retailers to hold large-scale sales whenever and management buyout — made the May 6 deadline set out by wherever they want. The current law limits them to specified 10- Merrill Lynch. — Samantha Conti day end-of-season periods in August and January; clearance sales due to renovation and/or going out of business, and EUROPE WATCH NO JOY FOR AUSTIN REED: Austin Reed, the classic men’s and anniversary celebrations every 25 years. The amendment must women’s wear brand that was the focus of bidders’ interest over first be passed by the German Parliament and then voted on by the past six weeks, is no longer for sale. The company confirmed its upper house. The German Retailers Association isn’t thrilled CALLING MORE SHOPPERS: Selfridges, the London department that it has withdrawn from all meetings with potential suitors with the proposed amendment, expressing concern that end-of- store and acquisition target, is drawing increasing interest each because none of the approaches received was up to par. The season sales will no longer be held at the same time and will day. As reported, the company had set a deadline of May 6 for company said shareholders’ best interests were best served by therefore lose their public relations value. “The retail industry all bids, but was still considering offers arriving after that date. continuing to operate as an independent company. The company doesn’t receive as much free advertising during any other time of Canadian billionaire Galen Weston today is expected to confirmed at the end of March that it had received an all-cash the year,” a German retail official lamented. Newspapers make an offer of $913 million, reported the Sunday Times of offer from the Glasgow-based retailer, Slater Menswear. This led traditionally run stories about the sales during the period so London (dollar figures have been converted from the pound at to a 26 percent jump in its share price and generated more “when every store and every region runs sales at different times, current exchange rates). Industry sources say Weston, owner of outside interest in the company, with approaches tipped to the advertising effect will be kaput.” — Melissa Drier Canadian luxury retailer Holt Renfrew and Brown Thomas in include the Italian fashion group, Marzotto, as well as Richard Dublin, is expected to be named the preferred bidder by Merrill Thompson, the entrepreneur who earlier this year bought — and ROYAL FLUSH: The Sultan bought the Prince. The London-based Lynch, the investment house working on the sale. Weston could then sold — the Jaeger and Viyella brands. — S.C. Dorchester Group Ltd., the hotel property and management not be reached for comment at press time. company owned by The Brunei Investment Agency, has signed Late last week, the Formula One motor racing boss Bernie DAILY BREAD: It wasn’t so long ago that the Fendi Baguette was the a binding agreement to purchase the prestigious Hotel Principe Ecclestone emerged as a financial backer for Robert Tchenguiz, fashion must-have of the moment, but already the Rome-based di Savoia in Milan for $300 million from Starwood Hotels & the Iranian property tycoon who is reported to be putting company is putting out a limited edition of 100 vintage models. Resorts Worldwide. The five-star, 404-room hotel is a favorite together a bid worth between $880 million and $928 million The bags, in everything from denim to painted suede, will be with fashion editors and retailers, and celebrities and VIPs from on behalf of his Rotch Property Group. London’s Evening available for only 10 days this month in its Rome, Milan, Venice, Woody Allen to Queen Elizabeth. The completion of the Standard newspaper reported that Ecclestone has offered the Florence, Bologna, London, Paris and Cannes boutiques. Prices transaction is expected at the end of June. — L.Z. tycoon $160 million in cash toward his bid. range from $400 to $3,000 and part of the revenues will be Ecclestone could not be reached for comment, while donated to the charity, Doctors Without Borders. — Luisa Zargani DIAL-UP STYLE: Cellular phones are not only fashion accessories, Tchenguiz did not return phone calls. they’re now a source of fashion information. At least that’s the Meanwhile, Simon and David Reuben, who trade in metals FULL STEAM AHEAD: With a fuller figure in mind, the fast-moving case in France, where fashion Web site Themode.tv this week and property, have reportedly reconfirmed their interest in Spanish brand, Zara, has upped its sizing to a European 46 — launches a service bringing its latest news to mobile phones. bidding for Selfridges, but it is unclear whether they have come the equivalent of a 16 in the U.S. The expanded sizes will affect Themode.tv uses Bouygues Telecom’s I-MODE, a mobile through yet with a firm offer. A spokesman for the Reuben roughly 20 percent of the women’s line including outerwear, Internet service, to relay the latest style information to brothers, who own about 100 buildings in the U.K., confirmed skirts, jackets, dresses, shirts and knits, said a Zara spokesman. Bouygues Telecom users, including the best moments from their interest. “The idea is to succeed,” he said. “When the The roomier merchandise is available for summer in Zara’s global fashion shows, tidbits on new clothing and accessories and tips Reubens start something, they want to succeed.” network of 550 stores in 41 countries. In other news, parent for shows, restaurants and hotels. — Emilie Marsh According to the Reuben brothers’ Web site, the duo is company Inditex opened a giant distribution center for Zara north looking at “venture capital-type” investments in businesses that of the Spanish capital in Zaragoza last week. In its final phase, SIXTYSOMETHING: Last month, the hip Italian jeanswear brand, require a capital injection or additional management expertise. the so-called Plataforma Europa’s operating space will total 68 Miss Sixty, christened its first freestanding store in Moscow — A Selfridges spokeswoman said the company had no further million square feet with distribution capacity of 80,000 garments bringing its international reach to 66 countries. “Russian comment on the auction process. per hour. Whew! But how else to accommodate Inditex’s grueling fashion victims have got a chance to look both stylish, sexy and Sources say that other companies and individuals with modus operandi, which demands new product shipments twice not too posh and serious. Now, it is one of the main trends in varying degrees of interest include Dickson Poon, the Hong weekly, delivered within 35 hours? — Barbara Barker the local fashion market,” said Tatiana Tretiakova, the Kong-based owner of Harvey Nichols, and Delancey, the marketing manager for the Podium chain of boutiques that had property company run by Jamie Ritblat. None could be reached COME SALE AWAY: On the heels of the liberalization of Germany’s sold Miss Sixty in its multibrand stores, but finally decided to for comment at press time. stringent shopping hours, the German government is now aiming give it a full showcase. The Russian market for trendy jeanswear It is understood that so far only two bidders — Tom Hunter, to amend its restrictive “Law Against Unfair Competition.” Last is growing fast. In June, Diesel is opening its fourth Moscow the Scottish entrepreneur, and Peter Williams, the chief week, the German cabinet approved proposals that will make it store on glamorous Tverskaya Street. — Olga Zaretskaya

WWD “A”

WWD’s market-timed glossy Accessories supplements provide powerful opportunities to strategically reach the decision makers and key influencers in the accessory industry prior to market.

Issue Dates: July 28, 2003 Close Date: June 30

October 27, 2003 Close Date: September 26

January 2004 Close Date: TBD

For more information on advertising in these special WWD coated stock supplements, contact Alix Michel, at 212-630-4596 or Paul Bernard on the West Coast, at 323-951-1800. WWDMediaWorldwide® 14 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 12, 2003 Fax resume&salreqsto:212-268-0479 om rBT225445 F.212- T.212-594-4455 B Mr 594-4466 email:[email protected] Base retailers. comm. volume other self- + & of exp’d. catalog following spclty., seeks w/proven starter importer/mfr. acces. jewelry/ Costume NY - Salesperson ae o hudhv nweg o stationery knowledge have and Should designers co. accessory based non-licensed focused and growing licensed for and needed Dedicated must. a skills skills. highly concept up Illustrator be from follow Must haveexperienceinAccessorie & Must design strong Photoshop with sample. seeks of organized, first phases Co work through to all Accessories indiv in self-motivated Ladies & energetic & Kids Product NY based.E-mail:[email protected] Sourcing also. D, Underwear/Loungewear proficient. & R Multiplant, market V as rvt ae n promotional and tote label bags, private cosmetic items. Establishedaccountlistpreferred. experienced sell bags, seeks to Co. salesperson Design Leading cata- & markets mass logs. Salar importe retailers, & with major mfr contacts having acc. salespeople, & seeks jewelry Ave 5th fax Pls indiv. right the for resume &salreqsto:212-268-0479 for opportunity Must great A growth be starter. systems. knowledge & retail self Must skills of a computer sales. excel. and have including oriented to phases with detail able all business in & involved directly of organized be Accessories highly Will Ladies work multi-task. be & Must Kids to Co. of position President Key Fax Illustrator. and resume: 212-779-0964Attn:Stace Photoshop EXECUTIVE/SALES ASST P ae k.FT rvnrcr;mass record; Proven F/T. sks. Sales .P. Search-www.manhattanoffices.com Search-www.manhattanoffices.com SALES EXECUTIVE Prime ManhattanJon212-268-8043 Prime ManhattanJon212-268-8043 Jewelry/Accessories GraphicDesigners e ntlain Great$$ New Installations e ntlain Great$$ New Installations 212-529-0309 /[email protected] Hosiery Sales Showroom &LoftExpert Showroom &LoftExpert

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Showrooms &Lofts RASKIN EXECUTIVESEARCH Paul, Mike,Larr Rib-Lycra-Jersey-Fleece For ALLoffice&loftSPACES Great ’New’OfficeSpaceAvail NoLotTooBigorSmall. For SpaceinGarmentCenter www.resumesforfashion.com Three by201-861-0033 60 E42ndStreet,NYC10165 ADAMS &CO.212-679-5500 www.raskinexecsearch.com Updating/Phone Interviews PRODUCTIONS (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Call Sherr PRODUCTIONS PRODUCTION Call CLOTHES-OUT: 212-947-5500 Call (212)268-9126 Fax: 212-949-6146 500-20,000 SQ.FT *ALL Off-Price* 212-880-0414 (937) 898-2975 212-869-2699 y y 212-719-0622. , Don,Jerr y orSherr S y People etc.Call973-564-9236JaralAgc rdt&mm fARdp.Qual’d dept. A/R self-starter of assertive be mgmt must collections, candidate yrs & chargeback 10+ incl: credit w/ Resp ind exp. motivated highly seeks kls atreprq x benefits, Exc req. exp Factor 401K. Faxres/salreqs.to:212-354-3051 skills. (212)557-5000 F:(212)986-8437 (212)557-5000 oriented indiv.toassistallphaseshigh onainft eigcntuto nec. sample sewing/construction years Lectra expaplus.Sometravel required. 5+ fit, and fittings. foundation all grading, supervise & depts pattern oversee spec, include Technical Responsibilities Foundations key Dept. direct seeks to Co exec. Lingerie Branded Major hang Must & sweaters. cut fashion in w full exp. + Current sewn $100K to Designer rersume &salaryrequirementsto: grams/product development.Fax/E-mail w Merchandiser. Musthavegoodcontacts Sportswear Mfr.seeksexp’d.Designer/ growth line Tremendous potential withbonus. work boards, Great of sheets. environment. spec aspects plaids, presentation prints, needed. all with years development: Illustrator include intimate Experience 2 Duties and the least industry. Photoshop in at apparel experience have foundation design and Must daywear lines. to our needed expand Designer Apparel Intimate and organized well player, w team a be Must creative Importe seeks Handbag large priced Popular DESIGNER -Handbags edge ofPhotoshopand/orIllustrator. knowl- have completing packages.Must and production inquiries lay- pricing / outs, and concepts include with design designers Responsibilities assisting between liaison production. as act to company apparel Major 1st excellent for experience Competitive salary. needed years , 3 communication &organizationalskills to 6X 2 to patterns Toddler Girls experience heavy ranges in sewingconstruction. children, size and all garments. missy for fit spec’s & with sketch Familiar to able be Must all busy in running of work sample room. Capable to ranges. Able size making. & grading, outerwear. marker System, Gerber active know & Must and ladies mfr. in wool exp children’s heavy Outerwear with indiv seeks leading N.Jbased w W wholesaler. or stores Commission only. chain Boys & Mens/ to for apparel experienced Reps Sales well aggressive seeks with inventory Importer Garments International A A eurd 5 t v.10mil 150 Ave. 5th co. goods soft 350 established co.Call973-564-9236Agc other or required. apparel in exp Must havecomputerexp.NYLocation. 7th Ave.CoutureDesignerseeksdetail TECHNICAL DESIGNE Design Assistant.Newborn/Infant/Toddler experience amust.Photoshop/Illustrator. 212-354-1967 /[email protected] Designer/Merchandiser APPAREL STAFFING DESIGN ASSISTANT DESIGN ASSISTANT Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc yMcee yr,Rmae Free Rampage, Byers, Michele, My / illing totrave mn Since1967 dmin Current yr. 1 min $55K. to ccountant srn raiainl&negotiaion & organizational /strong ith retailers&beabletoworkonpro- Please faxresumeto(212)629-3123 pressure business.Mustbepersonable, Send resumeattn:Operations EVP infant/toddler. Careeroppt’y.MAC l salse .Bre pae co apparel Bergen N. established ell EXP’D SALESREPS 1 yrexp.OK.NYLocation.Computer Designer to$60KCurrentexp.in PATTERNMAKER highly motivated,fashionexp.a DESIGNER ASST. ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION [email protected] or323.277.1061 MUST! Pleasefax212.629.4628 Fax resumesto:201-729-9229 AGGRESSIVE & Fax resumeto:212-239-2766 Fax resumeto212-398-9079 DESIGN*SALES*MERCH E-mail/Fax particularsto Please call:212-594-1606 W-I-N-S-T-O-N proficient. 110W34thst. Newborn/Infant/Toddler Fax Patti:973-812-1731 DIRECTOR COMPUTER or Fax:212-9717149 Fax Patti973-812-1731. Designer-Girl/Boy Designer 212-683-4038 l overseas.Exp.ismust! n oiae Designer. motivated and A/R ek individua seeks y y y . R in r l - * * * rqetOin rvlep Supvsry (Fax) 212-725-7116(Tel)212-481-1941 exp. design.. travel exp. [email protected] to Orient the & ability head pace Frequent mkt, of a fast access. knowledge a as Junior at Strong exp work multi-task. to yrs Ability environ- com- + pany large a paced 5 for designer/merchandiser Fast Req: Europe- etc. ment. the markets shop factories, an Oversee Asian to Trav- el hats. designers/artists. di- other Give to & rection lines. licensed belts multi-branded SGL’s, bags, W l o eeoigteln /your w/ to line Travel direction. the giving responsi- & developing totally designers Back- be for Co’s will ble You Accessory div. major pack this For x.Peiu gtep mi re- Email exp. (Fax) 212-725-7116(Tel)212-481-1941 mgmt to very sume: [email protected] travel a Previous Ability Orient at Frequent multi-task. exp. pref.. work is and to design mid- pace Ability & fast Mass Mkts. of tier Knowl construction. knowledge a Strong at of Backpacks,markettrendsandbag co. designer/merch. Accessory head a large as exp yrs uthv r x.i rdn bras. grading in exp. Branded yrs grader. Lectra experienceaplus. pattern 5 Major bra have a exp. Must for in Co Lingerie oppty Exciting tech & flats be detailed Must execute packages. Illustrator/Photoshopamust. outerwear. to girls able & Designer ladies seasoned for talented, Seeking with management in exp & high levelcontacts. years sales 7 Min outerwear qualified. innovative highly dynamic, several & be oversee Must to Pro divisions. Exec Top Seeking for etc. Responsible sales Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc co. production, merchandising, midtown large Other [email protected] * * *Sourcing Coord-CWr-Imports-Bi-ling.....To $45 * * *CFO-Sportswear Mfr-LIloc...... $BOE A 1-2 approval. final from samples years fashionbackgroundpreferred. through and art all concept of and track children’ Submit keep division. for product licensed organized Coordinator seek Licensing co. Accessory Fashion sales retail end/couture expert. 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Handbag/Access their Jr. tier for designer/merchandiser This majorAccessoryCo.seeksahead Head Des/Merch/Jr.Handbags/to120k Illustrator. girls-infant and toddlers. with and artist experience have Photoshop seeks Must in company skilled apparel Major eurd rawa iesddvo div stores dept licensed to selling or Urbanwear co. girls, jr required. or ++. or boys mens Better yg $175-200K in exp Current Head/President Div Fabric Cutter/SewingOperators Licensing Coordinator WOMEN’S DESIGNE APPAREL STAFFING,LTD. resume andsalaryrequirementsto: Tel: 516-239-6581/Fax:516-239-6810 Email resume:[email protected] Grader/Patternmaker prod. dept’s.AdvancedskillsinExcel, Assistant-detailed orientedindividual Merch./Designer Backpacks/to150k F/T positionsavail.forTablecloth Tech Dsgn-C/SKnit&Sweaterexp Tech DsgnMgr-Import-Knit&Woven Prod’n Coord-Sptwrmfr-Bi-ling...To $50K Prod’n Coord-Walmartexp Dsgnr-Newborn &Infantexp Print Dsgnr-ColoringRpts,Strikeoffs..$Open Dsgnr-C/S KnitsJrSptswrmfr to workwithdevelopment,sales,and 212-719-2051/jod or faxto212.398.0703attn:L.Albert. 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...... $Open ...... y Fax $Open .com $65K+ Mfr $80K y R . . K s f n D res ananacrt in- accurate maintain orders, EDI and v MS req’d: to Exp able W efficiently. be good and very multi-task have skills, o must communication Merchandise VP Indiv the the Manager. experi- and assist an to Merchandising seeking self-starter is enced Inc. Star Movie to Ability w/Designers. w working incl: Responsibilities Patternmaking. Table to Ability exp. PDS w Gerber have Must esadhntg.Fxrsm with resume Fax la- salar hangtags. order and and bels library swatch factories, w/ maintain communicate boards, tion Pls Faxres:212-643-9130Attn:Ph Children’s ApparelCo. noyblne,asml presenta- assemble balances, entory ork inallsizeranges.Min5yrsexp. ork onallsizeranges.Min8yrsexp. r,Ecl rcs ucaeorders purchase process Excel, ord, x eeis a euewt aayrqieet to requirements salary with resume Wacoal One Fax Inc., America, Plaza, Lyndhurst,NJ07071,Attn:HumanResources.NoCallsPlease required. Wacoal to: are location. mail and analysis NYC or benefits. Midtown 201-635-0208 and Notes. the duties DKI Lotus of MSWord, Exc office its aspects Excel, for Some all know with presentation Must Design to divisions. & responsi- concept Merch. DKNY be from of to development VP Asst. the line Merch. assisting a for seeks ble co. apparel intimate Leading PATTERNMAKERS tf ut iie vrestae srqie.This required. is travel ben- overseas comprehensive a Cad Limited candidate efit packageinagrowth-orientedenvironment. the and provide must. will development opportunity development, supervise a to product skills staff management overseas Development Strong understand- design. depth Product in Footwear in marketplace, & an experience retail casual have the Design to of all needs ing and Footwear manage candidate The our to slipper Dept. professional of established expreinced aspects an - seeks Company well Large Lilly Pulitzer DESIGN &PRODUCTDEVELOPMENTDIRECTOR Interested Lillylovingcandidatesshouldemailtheirresume PATTERNMAKER PATTERNMAKER Product Assistant y and [email protected]. Major StoresMarketingManager experience inmajordepartmentstoremarketinganda of Women’sandChildren’sproducts,isseekingaMajor to:HR212-684-3295. Stores MarketingManagerresponsibleforbuildingthe brand inthismarketingchannel.Aminimumof4yrs. PRODUCTION (2 PosAvail) Resumes canalsobefaxedto(610)878-9039. SLIPPERS ANDCASUALFOOTWEAR FIRST è four-year collegedegreerequired. Merchandising Assistant , afastgrowingPalmBeachinspiredCollection Based inKingofPrussia,PA. 7 West34thStreet,4thFl c/o FairchildPublications New York,NY10001 Box#M 1068 y llis f de olwu rmicpint com- knowl- to inception Tech pletion. Call973-564-9236 JaralAgc from up sweaters. Follow fashion edge. exp. full Current in $50-70K Asst. Production Mini- English. / mum 2yearsexperience.Faxresumeto: Chinese literate in computer bilingual be & Must woven division. / suits sweater in individual & organized aggressive seeks importer Apparel NY rne olcinbuilding, collection branded Production Assistant Studio seeksexperience, Hi-Pitch CreativeDesign onallaspectsofdesign. Please faxresumeto: withCreativeDesigner GRAPHIC ARTIST FT, GDtoworkclosely MACskillsamust. (212) 575-1636 509-479-9506 y . WWD, MONDAY, MAY 12, 2003 - 15 , R .** y ahoo.com y to: 212-575-3838 y territor Best quality. Best prices. labels background required. Sales Rep - Jeans bridal. Please call 718-239-9423 Visit www.radiantdevp.com & E-mail: [email protected] ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** Please fax resume including your couture, custom made, evening, & MW, SE, Department stores, private Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc E-mail to: radiantdevp@ CLUB MED KIDS CLUB MED 20 years experience from lingerie too Need strong contacts w/ mass market. ALL TERRITORIES AVAILABLE. ALL TERRITORIES FREELANCE PATTERNMAKE Independent Sales Leading knit/woven mfg. in China seeks exp’d independent sales for East Coast Leading Kids Swimwear manufacturer looking for experiencedrepresent Sales Reps ourDivision. to Ranging new from infantsand boys swimwear. to Club girls MedMust Kids haveswimwear experience in andfollowing. selling a kids good specialty store TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? . . y . y y Call 973-564-9236 Agc SALES Fax: 212-391-1530 JNS FASHIONS & 39th. Call 973-564-9236 Agc & 39th. Call 973-564-9236 SALESPERSON Fax resume to: 212-239-1448 y SALES PERSON/ Target. New York based not nec. Please fax resume to (212) 629-3123 Please fax resume omen’s apparel. Person must have SALES - Handbags Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc sportswear or dresses to JCPenney or SALES REP WANTED Sales $ Open. Current exp. selling girls contacts w/stores, major and retailers,salary/comm./bonus.Some private travel discount labeling.Excellent req’d Established importer of popularhandbags priced seekingperson. experienced Muststrong sales organizational be andactive accounts available. detail skills, highly motivated, Sales $$$Open. Current exp.label sweaters, in $20-80 private Wholesale. Excel- lent import &B’wa domestic production co. Seeking ason highly for motivated our Newleast salesper- 5 York yrs. sales sales officew exp w/ in at jr. and plus size Fax resume andor e-mail to: Sales @JNSfashions.com ref. to: (305) 597-9436 Newly established NYC& based Sandal Slipper sales Co. rep formass merchants. seeking new line sales with contacts person/ to Updatedcompany better seeks salesresults-oriented pro. missy Aggressive, specialty/chain stores. Good package. with sportswear following in Technical Designerexp. to in $85KSpecing. denim Current Emails to Far East. Grading. jeans. Computerized. Flat sketching. No phone calls please PR Coordinator Sales Executive/ ell as exceptional follow through ADRIENNE LANDAU required. Knowledge ofket designer and mar- exp.stores with a must. major Mustproficient. and be specialty Salary Excel and D.O.E.resume to [email protected]. Word Please email Leading luxuryseeking women’s an designer upbeat, aggressive and co. connected well- salesalso coordinate executive PR.nication Excellent who and commu- w organizational will skills, as

f y R . y y y y you are applying for. c.com y ahoo.com (212) 966-3994 , the fast growing Palm Beach inspired , the fast growing Palm Beach y retail buying experience. e-n è g pro@ ua y g resume and other pertinent information to resume and other pertinent information [email protected]. Resumes can also be [email protected]. Resumes years of major store wholesale experience. years of major store wholesale West Coast Sales Associate . Call 973-564-9236 Agc Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agc faxed to (610) 878-9039. Please specify position faxed to (610) 878-9039. Please

y New York, NY 10001 y Specialty Store business. Based in Los Angeles, this Specialty Store business. Based Interested Lilly loving candidates should email their Interested Lilly loving candidates manage and develop the company’s Signature and manage and develop the company’s We are also seeking a West Coast Sales Associate to We are also seeking a West Coast Lilly Pulitzer CHICAGO/MINNESOTA Pls. send resume to Box # 1070 Helen@lan Key Account Sales Associate and Sales Associate Key Account York based position requires analytical skills and 4 to 6 York based position requires analytical position will travel extensively and requires 1 to 3 years position will travel extensively 7 West 34th Street, 4th Floor Major Store Key Account Sales Associate to manage and Major Store Key Account Sales Please fax or e-mail resume in retailaccessor confidence to 1-800-221-5709 or develop the company’s major store account base. This New develop the company’s major Collection of Women’s and Children’s products, is seeking a Collection of Women’s and Children’s JUNIOR DENIM SALES ASSOCIATE world leader in the fashion accessory SALES EXECUTIVE est 33rd. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agc We offer benefits and a great oppty! ttn: Helen or email resume to holesale importers. Call 973-564-9236 Agc ertical co. Call 973-564-9236 Agc CHANGE FOR THE BETTER! REGIONAL DIRECTO Immediate position!in Position NoLita located and store. Greatgrowth! excellent compensation Fax resumeA benefits. to: Room for Sales $100-120K ++.sportswear Current selling exp. to Wal-MartFederated in or Target boys or or W Mayco. or Mid-tier stores. Sales $100-150K++.private Current labels, mens/yngselling exp FOB mens $6.30. in Large denim v chinese based Sales $90-100Kexp. in Missy base BlousesMissy $14 dreses wholsale. +++. $25-30 wholsale. Or Or16 JR Current $9- wholesale.Federated Following w/Compan Mayco, or or AMC. StrongSales Account HOT Execexp. in $90K++. girls Current 7-16selling sportswear to or dept dresses 1407 Bwa store. Very strong line. Sales Act Mgrexp. To in jeans $150Kto or ++. shirtings. Gap Private Current label orw the like retail stores, or to Major Jr. denim resource seeksment Depart- Store based Salesexperience Executive with inMust have product completeall understanding development. sales/merchandising o aspectsmajor players. of Only the heavy-hittersapply. need an excellent opportunity toand supervise your own region. train, motivate business isexecutive seeking arecord with in hard fieldcandidate a management. working The will ideal experience successful have withconsistently the track 8+ increase proven sales yearsMust ability and also profits. to retail haveership, highly communication, developed team lead- building, analytical and training skills. This is A / f f . . . y y y ela g histor y . Fax:240-414-3005 y 212-869-6214 Sales Pro SYSTEMS 1 year accessory experience for qualit our resume: 212-947-9822 ASSISTANT y y DAVID N GRAPHIC ARTIST req to [email protected] Young and exciting Tween Sketching. Fittings.1410 Bdway. y TIRED OF FEELING imum Intimate Apparel Fax to (212) 967-8108 Attn: An Jewelry Sales Rep Exp. putting together tech pkgs. Flat Accessory Co seeks the following: Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc SPEC TECHNICIAN sst. Candidate should have related SUPPORT/TRAINER TEXTILE DESIGN & exp. Jr. Sportswear Co.. MAC Illustrator. Spec tech/Production SR CREATIVE DIRECTOR Tech Designer Asst. $28-34K. Min 6 mon CAN ACTUALLY BE CREATIVE... UNAPPRECIATED AT WORK?? FINALLY, A PLACE WHERE YOU Minimum 5 years accessory experience Min Please fax resume to with salary reqs ARTWORK ORGANIZER Looking for experiencedin career sales missy person have and strong petite backgroundmajor sales. working accounts. Must with Must alsooriented be and very computer detail open. literate. All Salary repliesPlease fax full resume to (212) 947-0134 kept strictly confidential. NYC Intimate Apparelly Co. seeks connected high- contacts salespeople. in Mustmid-tier either accts. have specialty, Travelinging to pa dept., a must. or Will- Startup NYCsales Jewelry rep with Designer relatedhave experience. seeks Must establishedhighly motivated retail andGreat willing contacts, salary/comm. to Please travel. to: (203) 255-5705. Include pa fax be resume Technical Designer to $60K. Current exp. in full fashion sweaters + cut & Sewn knits. Specing. 1411 Broadway. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc Exciting Textile Coto needs studio organize librarian design and & artworkBenefits. Please fax resume attn: Kathy maintain reference materials. variety o Min 2 yrsmaking of exp corrections inconduct specing fit and garments, sessions.ble be Will for be otherbe able responsi- organized, production detail to duties.sense oriented and Must of have environment. urgency. Young Please &salar send energetic resume w Manufacturing company seeks individual with apparelto industry help background on train andexcellent current support communication employees abilitiesgood and analytical systems. skills.and benefits package. Excellent salary Must have Leading ChildrenswearGirls & Importer Boyssportswear 0/6X-7 o knitA seeks and Spec woven Technician background in gradingconstruction specs, and garment able tosheets develop from specs skills sketches, a must. patternmaking quired, knowledge of excel a plus. 2-3 years experience re- a n m 212-947-0277 [email protected]. resume with salary requirement to: resume with salary requirement EOE M/F 212-842-3217 Great Stuff MANAGER 914-723-0626 package and an exciting work environment. EOE. package and an exciting work Sweater Designer Designer Sweater [email protected] PRODUCTION (212) 812-8099. Jones Apparel Group, Inc. offers an excellent benefits Jones Apparel Group, Inc. offers PRODUCTION Work with design staff to Fax resume to 212-239-2766 COORDINATOR For confidential consideration, please fax or e-mail For confidential consideration, Please fax resume to: ments, allocations & inventory. Department store exp.- replenish- Exciting opportunityWomen’s Production forer. Manag- a Evan Picone, aimmediate division opening of for Joneswho Apparel a thrives Group, highly Inc., in motivatedcandidate has Sweater an an designer upbeat shouldknowledge and be fast ofdevelopment pace very and environment. specing experiencein Ideal creative with the knitting for orient.head and mills designer and have sweaters Responsibilitiessketches, concepts, agents include stitch technical and workingcommunication and directly with overseas yarn with cut specing, agents.literate, development, highly Needs & organized, flat to2-3 Years Experience. detail be oriented computer and sew and a team player. sweater layouts, daily choose fabricspoint, within allocate price stylesappropriate to factory, the quality ensure standards, negotiate costs, planand all followtech packs deliveries, to throughproduction. protos to from bulk years Minimum productionhigh-end women’s 4 apparel. expKnowledgeable in in experienced in costing, working with Italian &Fluent in Italian a plus. Asian factories. e offer an excellent compensation e are a contemporary womens Jennifer*Just Mgmt. * 800-544-5878 bility to sell, manage staff, and isual skills. Located in charming Production Coordinator RETAIL MANAGER/SALES Retail Planner to $160K merchandise. Must posses creative downtownFairfield Westchester County.Benefits, No Village incentives, eveningsalary. Fax resume to: and & hours. competitive W v W A *Prod. Coor. / Accessories To 50K *Prod. Coor. / Jewelry To 40K *Prod. Coor. / Walmart Apparel Spec. To 50K *Prod. Asst. / Men’s Urbanwear To 32K Fax with salary info: (914) 962-2257 Email: [email protected] (NYC loc.) 401(k) plan. Forplease immediate fax consideratio history and salary requirements to: resumes including salary PRODUCTION POSITIONS $$ Must have experience in the following... communication skills. Computer literate Major women’s andcompany children’s accessories seeksProduction Coordinator a withof 2 highly a years experienceupbeat minimu who motivated thrives and inResponsibilities an fast pacedcommunication will with overseas environment. vendors, act include assales a daily depts. liaisonsales between order regardingfollow up issues. design details artwork and and various and other The idealPlayer, candidate detail must oriented,possess be organized a excellent and Team written and verbal Major Childrenswearindividual company with seeks Responsibilities 2 include yearstracking ordering and experience. dips ofcommunication and computer skills. fabrics, and samples, accessories. lab Excellent and benefits package including a boutique lookingManagement forcontemporary someone experience fashion with environment. in a must, AS400experience experience with a Wal-Martalso helpful. plus. Retail Prior Link 16 The Magic Number

PARIS — Some might call it the Way East Village. Surfin’ Society In the shadow of the National Library, a new cultural frontier is budding in Central Park the French capital, and the celebrates its 150th flow of hipsters to the area is ® anniversary this year, moving from a mere dribble

WD, MONDAY, MAY 12, 2003 WD, MONDAY, eye as members of the to an outright wave. W women’s committee The eastern reaches of of the Central Park Conservancy Paris started coming to life a are proud to point out. But few years ago with the dressed in their pastel best and development of the Bercy wildest headgear on Wednesday, district, which boasts a sports with some opting for proper white and entertainment complex gloves, it looked like the ladies where Madonna has were celebrating circa 1960. They performed, and a residential gathered for a lunch in the park, and shopping area in the sponsored by Hermès, and turned Cour Saint-Emilion, once the the Conservatory Garden into a platform of the wine business surreal sea of hats, the more in France. outrageous, the better. A jolt of cool followed Although, picking one of the when the contemporary art garden’s flowers to wear in your world discovered a once- hair might have proved a little too characterless street, Louis outrageous. Jamee Weiss. It was dubbed “Little Limelight in the 13th arrondissement. “Don’t do it,” warned Sally Gregory Chelsea” after the famous New York district. These days, the number of Albermarle, whose head sprouted in Marc Fé Fendi curiosity seekers is growing fast and space is getting tight. “Our street is two silk flowers. “You’ll probably Jacobs at the at the legendary,” boasts Emmanuel Perrotin, who opened an eponymous gallery be arrested!” Conservatory. Conservatory. here six years ago exhibiting the likes of Japanese artist Takashi Murakami. Among the crowd, which raised “We see more and more people and it is time to expand to be able to $3 million at the event, were Coco Blaine exhibit our artists’ work.” Kopelman in a chic straw cloche, Trump in But buzz really started growing around the 13th arrondissement when Blaine Trump under a swarm of Marin Karmitz opened its MK2 cinema complex last February. Designed by Bill Blass butterflies, Serena Boardman, Jean-Michel Wilmotte, the center boasts 14 screens, three restaurants, a Eliza Bolen, Fernanda and and a hat nightclub, a DVD and music store and exhibition spaces. “This was the last Eugenie Niven. by Eric space where you could still build in Paris,” explains Nathanael Karmitz, Arie Kopelman and Mayor Javits. the movie director Marin Karmitz’s son. “This is Paris’s emerging area. It will be the New Wave Latin Quarter and a new cultural border.” That prediction is shared by many Parisians, including Christophé Girard, director of fashion strategy at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and the deputy mayor of Paris for culture. He’s a big fan of the neighborhood. “If I had to move tomorrow, I would move there,” he says. “I like the energy. I like the spirit. Paris is not only about Pigalle, Montmartre and the Marais. Paris is also about modern space and that’s what the 13th represents.” At the moment, the area relies on cool-seekers from other parts of the city, many of whom take the high-speed, driverless Meteor subway line to whisk to the city’s edge. But with major office and housing space slated for completion next year — and some 20,000 students moving to the area when the Paris VII Holly University opens in 2004 — a local crowd should fill streets that can still be desolate. Beck in “Starting in June, we’ll really see things moving here, and we’ll have a A sea of hats at the Conservatory. Chanel. neighborhood clientele show up,” predicts Véronique Boyer, events organizer for Batofar, a lighthouse boat that’s been converted into a temple of Bloomberg were among the few electronic music. On summer weekends, the crowds next to the boat will soak X-Ys on hand. up the sun, the skyline and the beats. Who says 13 is an unlucky number? “By executive order, I’m going — Chantal Goupil to ban all the men next year,” said Bloomberg. “This is market research for me,” said Kopelman. “The others WHAT WATTAGE: With enough star are here to ogle.” power to light up Yankee Stadium, the That night, the fashion crowd EYE SCOOP Council of Fashion Designers of was dazzled by pro surfer Holly America has confirmed quite a cast of Beck, who hung loose in SoHo’s award presenters for its June 2 gala. Not only will Sarah Jessica Parker play Chanel boutique during a launch host while Style Icon award-winner Nicole Kidman collects her due, but party for the house’s new J12 sport Renée Zellweger will take the podium to present André Leon Talley with the watch. Beck surfs in California, Eugenia Sheppard Award. Eve will present the Accessory Designer of the but she wouldn’t say where. Year Award. Annette and Oscar de la Renta will present Anna Wintour with “People are very protective of the Lifetime Achievement Award, and Adrien Brody will present a statuette their surfing spots,” she Nan Kempner at the Conservatory. to the Men’s Wear Designer of the Year winner. Now that’s what we call Sofia Coppola and Frankie Rayder, explained. “It’s adds an air of casting. mystery to the sport.” both in Chanel, at the boutique.

Nell’s in London. fillet with coconut basmati rice. A big circular peephole in the floor gives a view of the basement dance floor, where revelers groove to No-Tell Nell’s R&B and hip-hop tunes until closing time at 3:30 a.m. LONDON — Piers Adam’s new club, Nell’s, may have Its opening late last month just opened, but its walls could already tell a few tales. Piers attracted Claudia Schiffer, The place is named after Nell Gwynn, the courtesan Adam Heidi Klum and Matthew and mistress of the Prince of Wales who stayed at the Perry, and already Tom Parker site when it was a hotel in the late 17th century. Bowles, son of Camilla Parker “I think it has a ghostly feeling of naughty and de- Bowles, is a regular, as are the bauched secrets,” says Adam over a Diet Coke one af- Spencer-Churchills and Ben ternoon at the club. “Having somewhere that has a her- Elliot, whose mother, Annabel, de- itage is much easier than taking on a new building that signed the venue with Tamsin Greenhill. hasn’t got a soul.” While the swell set might have found its way to After K-bar, Kabaret, Rock and Stork Rooms, the Nell’s already, Adam is intent on preserving its posh- two-level, 2,500-square-foot club, bar and restaurant in turquoise mirrors, walls washed in pale gold and black meets-street mix. In Adam’s world, the Chelsea set and Mayfair is Adam’s latest venture. But while he has pre- glass tables surrounded by black wooden chairs with the edgier East and North London crowd mingle. “I served the building’s antiquated mood, he’s punched it padded orange cushions. The restaurant, on the love the idea of supermodels mixing with street kids,” up with modern glamour. Nell’s is decorated with ground floor, serves dishes like sausage with mustard says Adam. “It makes for a much better time.” Parisian Art Deco frosted lamps from the 1930s and mashed potatoes and the more exotic sesame salmon — Sarah Harris NELL’SBY TIM JENKINS; CONSERVATORY LUNCH BY ROBERT MITRA; CHANEL PARTY BY STEVE EICHNER; LIMELIGHT BY STEPHANE BY LIMELIGHT EICHNER; STEVE BY FEUGERE PARTY CHANEL MITRA; ROBERT BY LUNCH CONSERVATORY JENKINS; TIM NELL’SBY