WILLIAMS SISTERS SERVE JEWELRY/3 N.Y. APPAREL JOBS DIVE/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • May 12, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 97 $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Hot Spots NEW YORK — There’s nothing like a little Italian Riviera sex appeal to heat things up. For resort, Giorgio Armani is putting a sultry stamp on Armani Collezioni with body-conscious silhouettes spiced up with flirty polkadots or stripes. Here, a silk and polyester dress. For more, see page 4. The Prodigal Label: Thomas Burberry Line Relaunches in the U.K. By Samantha Conti LONDON — Burberry has a new baby for Britain — and eventually perhaps the rest of the world. The company’s relaunched Thomas Burberry line is ready to make its U.K. debut, building off an existing strong customer base in Spain and Portugal. In its latest incarnation, the collection is full of collegiate, youthful classics — with a Nancy Drew and Hardy Boys feel to it. But there’s no mystery to the brand’s potential. While Burberry executives declined to reveal sales See Burberry, Page5 PHOTO BY KYLE PHOTO ERICKSEN KYLE BY 2 3 0 0 2 , 2 1 Viktor & Rolf, Alexander McQueen WWDMONDAY Y Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear A M , Y GENERAL A Reach Accord on Use of Red Seal D FASHION: Little dresses and short skirts dominate the look at Armani Collezioni N for resort, with sporty lacing and cropped pants among the highlights. O PARIS — It looks like Viktor & 4 M Rolf got the seal of approval. Burberry has a new baby for Britain — and eventually, perhaps, the rest of , D WWD has learned that the 1 the world — in the relaunch of its youthful Thomas Burberry line. W Dutch design duo and its fra- W grance licensee, L’Oréal, Viktor & Rolf and Alexander McQueen have reached an agreement over reached an agreement with 2 McQueen’s use of a prominent red wax seal on his fragrance, Kingdom. Alexander McQueen and YSL Recently released economic data show that apparel manufacturing Beauté over McQueen’s use of a employment in New York has plummeted 19.9 percent over the past year. prominent red wax seal on the 2 packaging of his new fragrance, INNERWEAR: The May market could be summed up as anticlimactic, with Kingdom. It is believed that 6 some showrooms bustling with traffic and others relatively empty. McQueen will alter or phase EYE: A visit in the Paris’ lucky 13th arrondissement…Nell’s gets cranking in out that detail by the time the London…a party for Central Park, plus a scoop. Viktor & Rolf scent hits the 16 market, possibly in 2004. A closeup of the package of Alexander McQueen’s fragrance, Kingdom, and Classified Advertisements ..................................................................14-15 Viktor & Rolf’s backdrop to their fashion show in Paris last March. As reported, Viktor & Rolf To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is were upset because a red seal [email protected], using the individual's name. has been its logo for years, Beauté. A spokesman for Viktor in these columns March 5, at SUBSCRIPTION RATES even appearing on jeans and Horsting and Rolf Snoeren also which time Gucci took pains to U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. sweaters, and presumably an declined to elaborate on the downplay any trademark in- Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; integral element of the per- pact and the designers were fringement and stress its cor- outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. fume under development. not available for comment. dial relations with L’Oréal. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Terms of the pact, however, They are busy preparing their Gucci Group chairman Domen- issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. are sealed. next collection, and a major 10- ico De Sole is sailing buddies WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., “We have reached an amica- year retrospective that will with L’Oréal chief Lindsay a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, ble solution with L’Oréal, and open during Paris fashion week Owen-Jones. including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be agreed to not disclose the in October at the Museum of YSL Beauté launched King- expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. terms,” said a spokesman for Textiles and Fashion here. dom last March, with plans to Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Gucci Group, parent of YSL Details of the feud surfaced sell the scent in 4,000 doors. Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. MONDAY: Pacific Sunwear reports on its first-quarter NYC Apparel-Manufacturing Jobs Off 20% earnings. Vogue and Perry Ellis International celebrate nominees By Scott Malone As reported, in April, the indus- Business Improvement District, for Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Awards for the 2003 CFDA try payroll fell to 495,000 — the said what’s particularly striking Fashion Awards, New York. NEW YORK — Recently re- first time it’s been below the about the recent acceleration in leased economic data show that half-million mark. the rate of decline is that “it TUESDAY: Commerce Department reports on March im- apparel manufacturing employ- The city industry’s rate of de- didn’t seem there was any one port figures. ment in this city has plummeted cline also is sharper than the 15 thing that provoked a sudden First-quarter earnings from Wal-Mart, J.C. Penney, May 19.9 percent over the past year, percent rate of job loss seen in sharp drop.” Department Stores and TJX Cos. greatly outpacing the citywide the 12-month period immediate- She blamed the weak city Parsons senior graduates Collective 2003 fashion show, job loss rate of 1.7 percent. ly following Sept. 11, 2001. That economy, which has prompted New York. According to the New York was a period of heavy job loss layoffs in many other industries, State Department of Labor, at for Chinatown, largely because and global economic pressures WEDNESDAY: Commerce Department releases April re- the end of March, the city’s ap- large swaths of the neighbor- that are driving manufacturing tail sales figures. parel-manufacturing payroll hood were cordoned off for out of the U.S. The Lighthouse Posh Benefit 31st Anniversary, New York stood at 33,100, down from 41,300 weeks after the attack, forcing as She said those forces seem all (through Saturday). a year earlier. That’s well off many as half the area’s garment but unstoppable. That realiza- First-quarter earnings from Federated Department from the 48,600 workers em- contractors to shut their doors. tion is one reason the FCBID has Stores, Tiffany, Ann Taylor and Bulgari. ployed by the industry in August Through the Nineties, the recommended that the city drop 2001, before the Sept. 11 terror- rate of decline was typically in the special-zoning requirement THURSDAY: Labor Department releases Producer Price ist attacks. the mid-single-digit percentage that half the space in side-street Index for April. Nationwide, apparel employ- ranges, and never exceeded 9 Garment District buildings be set First-quarter earnings from Target and Kohl’s. ment for the year ended March percent. aside for manufacturing. COMING THIS WEEK was off 4.7 percent, according to Barbara Randall, executive “That’s the direction the world FRIDAY: Labor Department reports on Consumer Price the U.S. Department of Labor. director of the Fashion Center Continued on page 11 Index for April. Marzotto Names New President In Brief VALDAGNO, Italy — In a move Pietro Marzotto stepped down with $57.4 million in the same pe- aimed at facilitating the restruc- as president in 1998, but he con- riod last year, because of its invest- G ANOTHER POINT ON GUCCI: France’s Pinault-Printemps- turing of Marzotto SpA, the fash- tinued to wield power over the ment in the Valentino brand. Redoute SA spent about $102.9 million to buy 1.06 million shares of ion and textile company named a company as a majority share- Figures have been converted from Gucci Group NV, boosting PPR’s stake in Gucci to 63.28 percent new president and six new board holder. Although not involved in euros at current exchange rates. from 62.2 percent, it was revealed in a Friday filing with the members during its annual share- this new pact, he was reelected Net consolidated sales rose 3.5 Securities and Exchange Commission.