DOCSLIB.ORG

Tree Pruning Guide

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Tree Pruning Guide Tree Pruning Guide This guide is a combination of work by: the California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection, the National Arbor Day Association, and the University of California, Agriculture & Natural Resources Finding proper care for your tree is important. Your best assurance of obtaining professional work is by using the services of an arborist Don’t Top Trees! Provided by: certified by the International Society of Arboriculture. Our City Our City Forest Forest can also provide a list of tree care companies and certified 151 West Mission Street arborists; contact us at (408) 99-TREES. For more information on how to prune young trees, San Jose, CA 95110 sign up for a Tree Amigo class or attend a pruning workshop. This guide, and all services are (408) 99-TREES provided free of cost by Our City Forest, a non-profit 501(c)3 organization. www.OurCityForest.org The type of pruning your tree gets is critical to its health, longevity, safety, and appearance. Proper pruning is Five Key Steps for Pruning Young Trees important because trees add beauty and enhance property Source: Training Young Trees for Structure & Form value, up to 27%. Improperly pruned or neglected trees can result in: suffering tree health, lessened property value, 1 Remove broken, dead, dying, diseased, or damaged increased potential hazards and liability, and increased branches. Inspect the canopy and remove or cut back these long-term maintenance costs. branches. This guide is intended to describe how young trees 2 Select and establish a central leader. There should should be pruned. We are not encouraging tree owners only be one leader. Select the strongest and most vertical to prune large mature trees themselves. Pruning is stem as the leader and remove or cut back competing both difficult and dangerous, it’s best left to experi- stems. enced arborists. 3 Select and establish the lowest permanent branch. Reasons to Prune/Train Young Trees Look for a well-attached branch at the desired height (de- termined by location and use), and remove closely-spaced, Source: Training Young Trees for Structure & Form competing branches. The diameter of the lowest permanent Improved structural strength. By removing defects branch should be no more than one-half that of the central such as weak branch attachments and codominant stems, leader or trunk at the point of attachment. Smaller tempo- trained trees are structurally stronger than untrained trees. rary branches should be left close to the lowest permanent Structurally stronger trees have a lower potential for branch. Larger temporary branches should be pruned back failure. to three to four buds. Reduced maintenance costs. Trained trees require less 4 Select and establish scaffold branches. Look for maintenance when they are mature. Typically, trained well-attached branches above the lowest permanent branch trees have fewer branches than untrained trees, which that are no more than one-half the diameter of the central means less pruning. In addition, well-spaced branches leader. Scaffold branches should be well spaced both verti- provide easier access for arborists, and pruning can be cally and radially. Vertical spacing should be 18 inches or accomplished in a shorter period of time. Finally, trained more for large trees and 12 inches for smaller trees. Radial trees may not have structural defects that require correc- spacing should be allowed for balanced branch distribution tion by cabling, bracing, canopy thinning, and codominant around the central leader. Leave small branches close to stem removal, which avoids substantial costs. scaffolds as temporary branches and cut back or remove larger branches. Increased tree longevity. Simply by remaining intact longer, trained trees serve as functional components of the 5 Select temporary branches below the lowest urban forest for more time than untrained trees. Trained permanent branch. Some or all the branches below the trees have a lower potential for structural failure than lowest permanent branch can be retained as temporaries. untrained trees. Failed trees and hazardous trees need to If possible, leave the smallest branches and cut back or be removed. Trees that have sustained substantial partial remove the largest branches. failure (limb or stem failure) often need to be removed because they are hazardous or unsightly. September 2006 How Much to Prune? Source: Training Young Trees for Structure & Form Generally, no more than 25% of the canopy of a young tree should be removed in any one year (This varies for different tree species). In some cases, removing only 5 to 10% will be sufficient to develop structure and form. With particularly fast-growing trees or trees with significant defects, over 25% may need to be removed. You can reduce the height of a large tree by up to 30%. It is important that approximately 1/2 of the trees foliage originate in the lower 2/3 of the tree. Tree Location and Training A tree’s location is an important consideration for Step 3, “Select and establish the lowest permanent branch.” The height of the lowest permanent branch is determined by both the location and use of the tree. Trees planted along streets or in parking lots need to allow clearance for vehicles. For street trees, many cities require an 8-foot (2.4 M.) clearance above the sidewalk and 14-feet (4.3 M.) over the street. Trees in parking lots need a 12 to 14-foot (3.7 to 4.3 M.) clearance. Trees in parks and yards have variable clearance requirements. If access is not needed, or if the tree is used for wind protection or as a visual screen, then the lower branches should be retained. Conifers The Five Steps can be applied to conifers, but with some modifications. Steps 1 and 2 are important. Damaged branches and competing leaders need to be removed. Step 3 may be important depending on the tree’s location. If clearance is needed for vehicles, equipment, or people, then Step 3 should be applied. Step 4 is not as important for conifers as it is for hardwood species. In many cases this step can be skipped entirely. Look for and remove branches with weak attach- ments, however. Step 5 is needed if a lowest permanent branch is established. Field Practice It is very important to practice the Five Steps before applying them. Review each step with a helper before making cuts. Tie string or ribbon around the leader, the lowest permanent branch, and scaffolds. Discuss reasons for your selections, and step back to look at potential impacts on tree form and size. After you are confident of your selections, then make your cuts. Again step back from time to time to assess impacts on tree form. Remember that species and conditions vary considerably, and you will always need to use good judgment. Understand the reasons for the Five Steps, and then make reasonable adjustments in the field. When to Prune? Source: Tree City USA Bulletin #1 growth is complete. The reason for the slowing effect is that you When to prune depends to a large extent on why you reduce the total leaf surface, thereby reducing the amount of food prune. Light pruning and the removal of dead wood can manufactured and sent to the roots for their development and next be done anytime. Otherwise, here are some guidelines, but year’s growth of crown. recognizing that individual species may differ. Fall Because decay fungi spread their spores profusely in the fall and healing of wounds seems to be slower on fall Winter the most Pruning during dormancy is cuts, this is a good time to leave your pruning tools in storage. common practice. It results in a vigorous burst of new growth in the spring and should be used if that is the desired Flowering Trees If your purpose for pruning is to enhance effect. It is usually best to wait until the coldest part of winter flowering: 1. For trees or shrubs that bloom in summer or has passed. Some species, such as maple, walnut, and birches, fall on current year’s growth (e.g., crape myrtle), prune in winter. may “bleed” when sap begins to flow. This is not harmful, and 2. For trees that bloom in spring from buds on one-year-old wood will cease when the tree leafs out. (e.g., dogwood and flowering fruit trees), prune when their flowers fade. Spring At the latest, prune well before the buds swell and new leaves begin to develop. Caution: In some areas of the country, diseases or insect occurence may be affected by the time of Summer To direct the growth by slowing the branches pruning. Check with an arborist or nursery operator to you don’t want; or to slow or “dwarf” the development of a tree or branch, pruning should be done soon after seasonal see if there are any local problems. The Right Way - Where to Make The Cut Source: Tree Pruning - Doing it Right Remove unwanted branches at their attachment point to the trunk or another branch. Shorten branches to a lower lateral branch at least 1/2 the diameter of the branch to be removed. DO NOT LEAVE STUBS. Stubs die-back and allow decay to enter the trunk or branch, This shortens the tree’s lifespan and causes potential hazards. In addition, stubs look un- natural. Making the cut: Make the cut just outside the branch bark ridge (D) and the trunk collar (E) (Figure 1). These ‘targets’ mark the boundary between the branch and the trunk. The branch bark ridge (BBR) is a raised strip of bark found on most branch crotches. When viewed from the top, it appears as D a crescent shaped ridge extending downward.
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Chapter 6 Care and Handling
    Chapter 6 Care and Handling The following TEKS will be addressed in this chapter: (6) The student knows the management factors of floral enterprises. The student is expected to: (A) use temperature, preservatives, and cutting techniques to increase keeping quality; (B) identify tools, chemicals, and equipment used in floral design; (C) fertilize, prune, and water tropical plants; (D) manage pests; and (E) demonstrate the technical skills for increasing the preservation of cut flowers and foliage. Care and Handling of Cut Flowers and Foliages Cut flowers, even though they have been separated from the parent plant, are living, actively metabolizing plant parts. These parts undergo the same basic aging process as the entire plant — only quicker. However, the rate of deterioration can be slowed down considerably by supplying the cut flower with its basic needs. The first and foremost need of a cut flower is water. Second is food. In addition, certain damaging factors such as exposure to ethylene gas, microbial attack and rough handling must be avoided. From a practical point of view, a controlled rate of opening is needed as well as maintenance of good color. All of these factors must be considered by everyone who handles the product. This includes growers wholesalers and retailers. In order to be competitive in the marketplace our product must be desirable to the consumer. Our flowers must be fresh for the customer to enjoy! Factors Affecting Quality There are several factors which play a part in keeping the quality of cut flowers at a high level: (1) the grower (2) moisture balance.
    [Show full text]
  • CHERRY Training Systems
    PNW 667 CHERRY training systems L. Long, G. Lang, S. Musacchi, M. Whiting A Pacific Northwest Extension Publication OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY n WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY n UNIVERSITY OF IDAHO in cooperation with MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY CHERRY training systems Contents Understanding the Natural Tree....................................................................................................................................................... 3 Training System Options.......................................................................................................................................................................... 4 Rootstock Options.......................................................................................................................................................................................... 5 Pruning and Training Techniques.....................................................................................................................................................5 Kym Green Bush............................................................................................................................................................................................ 10 Spanish Bush.....................................................................................................................................................................................................18 Steep Leader......................................................................................................................................................................................................25
    [Show full text]
  • Dormant Tree (And Shrub) Pruning
    Dormant Tree (and Shrub) Pruning By Sue Gwise, Consumer Horticulture Educator & Master Gardener Coordinator If you need to prune any of your hardwood trees, late winter is the best time for this task. Even fruit trees like apple, pear, and peach should be pruned during the dormant season, which is basically February through early April, and prior to spring bud swell. The worst time to prune hardwood trees is during or soon after their initial growth flush. Unfortunately, this is the same time of year when most people begin their landscape chores. A prune at this point is very stressful to the tree. Dormant pruning is done for several reasons: 1. Fungi and insects are not active, and this eliminates the chance of disease and infestation. 2. Pruning done before bud swell in early spring will maximize growth. 3. It minimizes the chance of cold damage which is higher if pruning is done in early winter. 4. The tree will go into a full season of active growth in which pruning wounds will close-up much quicker. 5. There are no leaves, so it is much easier to see the tree structure. Like anything, there are exceptions. Crabapples, for example, tend to sucker profusely if pruned in the winter or early spring. As a result, species prone to suckering should be pruned in the summer. Things get trickier with ornamental flowering trees and shrubs. In these cases, the timing of pruning relates to the type of wood that develops flowers. In species where blooms occur on the current season’s growth (new wood), a dormant pruning is fine.
    [Show full text]
  • Developing a PREVENTIVE PRUNING PROGRAM in Your Community: Mature TREES
    CHAPTER DEvElopinG A pREvEnTIVE pRUNING pRoGRAM in yoUR coMMUniTy: mature TREES PUBLICATION Nº ENH 1063 e d w a r d f. g i l m a n a m a n d a b i s s o n Introduction A preventive pruning program should be designed to create structurally sound trunk and branch architecture that will W\QZcRSRPO`Y sustain a tree for a long time. The goal Q]R][W\O\babS[a with mature trees is to develop and maintain a sound structure to minimize RSORP`O\QV hazards such as branch failure. This task is easier provided a good structure was eObS`a^`]cba established earlier in the tree’s life. When properly executed, a variety of benefits are derived from pruning. Benefits include reduced risk of branch P`]YS\P`O\QV and stem breakage, better clearance for vehicles and pedestrians, improved health and appearance, and enhanced view. When improperly performed, pruning can harm a tree’s health, stability, acQYS` and appearance. Several consequences occur when pruning is not performed q at all (Figure 1). These consequences include development of low limbs; weak, codominant stems; defects such Figure q as included bark; and accumulation of Problems that can develop on trees include codominant dead branches. Formation of codominant stems, included bark, broken and dead branches and large stems and defects such as included bark removed limbs that result in trunk decay. can lead to increased risk of breakage. The Urban Forest Hurricane Recovery Program http://treesandhurricanes.ifas.ufl.edu One of the most common defects in Figure planted trees is formation of large, w low limbs.
    [Show full text]
  • Pruning Manual Arboritecture
    Pub. No. 37 November 2016 Arboritecture:Arboritecture: BuildingBuilding GreatGreat TreesTrees WithWith PruningPruning ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 #1○○○○○○○ 1234567890123456789012345 #1 1234567890123456789012345PC 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345DZ 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 #2 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345#3 1234567890123456789012345 1234567890123456789012345 STEM by Dr. Kim D. Coder, Professor of Tree Biology & Health Care Warnell School of Forestry & Natural Resources, University of Georgia This manual is a third revision of a popular educational product designed for helping tree health care providers and other allied professionals appreciate and understand a number of basic aspects of young to middle-aged tree pruning. This manual is a synthesis and integration of research and educa- tional concepts regarding trees and how pruning impacts tree biology, struc- ture and aesthetics. This product is for awareness building and educational development. This product does not represent young tree training specifica- tions or pruning standards. At the time it was finished, this publication
    [Show full text]
  • Merritt College Landscape Horticulture Degree & Certificate
    1 Merritt College Landscape Horticulture Degree & Certificate Options 2019-2021 Merritt College Landscape Horticulture now has a new Arboricul- Program Learning Outcomes: ture program offering two Certificates of Achievement & an Associate Students who complete the certificate will be able to: of Science degree. This program was designed with input from local tree • Create & maintain landscapes that provide basic human comfort and livability industry employers, and those employers are looking to hire our grads! • Create and maintain landscapes that respect and respond to regional ecology, including plant community dynamics, soil mediums, water and moisture Merritt College is home to one of the largest horticulture facilities in requirements, and sustainable potential in Bay Area environments northern California. Our 7.5-acre facility includes 10k sq. ft. of greenhouse • Communicate basic horticulture concepts to clients, contractors, public agencies. and lath house space; drafting & floral design labs; and the Emile Labadie Arboretum. Students on an associate degree track will be able to complete Certificate of Achievement Requirements: all required coursework within a two-year period, but students are free to LH 1 (day) OR 1E (eve) Intro to LANHT 3 units work at their own pace. Merritt Landscape Horticulture is a Career Education LH 23 Plant Terminology 2.5 units program, and our programs are designed to equip students with the knowledge and LH 26 Pruning .5 units experience needed to be job-ready, and to enhance/refresh the skills of those One 3 unit plant ID course: already working in the field. LH 2 or 2E; 3 or3E; 4 or 4E; 5 A, EA, B or EB; 6A, EA, B or EB; 7 or 7E; 40 or 40E 3 units One course from following: One or more certificates or degrees in Landscape Horticulture will be LH 13 (day) OR 13E eve Arboriculture 3 units awarded upon satisfactory completion of the program requirements.
    [Show full text]
  • Pruning the Orchard
    Pruning the Orchard Ronald H. Walser, Wilford A. Wright, Alvin R. Hamson, Extension Horticulturists, Utah State University Revised March 1994 by Dan Drost, Extension Vegetable Specialist, and Tony Hatch, Extension Horticulture Specialist March 1994 HG 363 CONTENTS Introduction ....................................... 1 Pruning Equipment .................................. 1 Apple Trees ....................................... 1 Central Leader Pruning .............................. 2 Modified Leader or Modified Central Leader Pruning ...... 3 Peach and Nectarine ................................. 5 Open Center Pruning ................................ 6 Pear Trees ......................................... 7 Sweet Cherry Trees ................................. 8 Tart Cherry Trees ................................... 8 Plums ............................................ 9 Apricot Trees ...................................... 9 Walnut and Pecan Trees ............................. 10 Espalier .......................................... 10 Pruning Neglected Trees ............................ 11 Grapes .......................................... 12 Raspberries ....................................... 13 Red Raspberries ................................... 14 Everbearing Raspberries ............................ 15 Blackberries ...................................... 15 Currants and Gooseberries ........................... 15 Glossary ......................................... 16 General Rules for Pruning ........................... 17 ACKNOWLEDGMENT The authors
    [Show full text]
  • Tree Pruning: the Basics! Pruning Objectives!
    1/12/15! Tree Pruning: The Basics! Pruning Objectives! Improve Plant Health! Safety! Aesthetics! Bess Bronstein! [email protected] Direct Growth! Pruning Trees Increase Flowers & Fruit! Remember-! Leaf, Bud & Branch Arrangement! ! Plants have a genetically predetermined size. Pruning cant solve all problems. So, plant the right plant in the right way in the right place.! Pruning Trees Pruning Trees 1! 1/12/15! One year old MADCap Horse, Ole!! Stem & Buds! Two years old Three years old Internode Maple! Ash! Horsechestnut! Dogwood! Oleaceae! Node Caprifoliaceae! Most plants found in these genera and families have opposite leaf, bud and branch arrangement.! Pruning Trees Pruning Trees One year old Node & Internode! Stem & Buds! Two years old Three years old Internode Node! • Buds, leaves and branches arise here! Bud scale scars - indicates yearly growth Internode! and tree vigor! • Stem area between Node nodes! Pruning Trees Pruning Trees 2! 1/12/15! One year old Stem & Buds! Two years old Dormant Buds! Three years old Internode Bud scale scars - indicates yearly growth and tree vigor! Node Latent bud - inactive lateral buds at nodes! Latent! Adventitious" Adventitious bud! - found in unexpected areas (roots, stems)! Pruning Trees Pruning Trees One year old Epicormic Growth! Stem & Buds! Two years old Three years old Growth from dormant buds, either latent or adventitious. Internode These branches are weakly attached.! Axillary (lateral) bud - found along branches below tips! Bud scale scars - indicates yearly growth and tree vigor! Node
    [Show full text]
  • Permaculture Orchard: Beyond Organic
    The Permaculture Orchard: Beyond Organic Stefan Sobkowiak answers questions from people like you Compiled by Hugo Deslippe Formatted by James Samuel 1 Table Of Contents Introduction 3 Tree Care 4 Types Of Trees 13 Other Plants 22 Ground Cover 24 The Soil 26 Pests and other critters 30 Animals and friendly insects 32 Orchard Patterning 34 Permaculture concepts 35 Starting an orchard 37 Business questions 45 About Stefan and the Farm 51 Profiles 59 2 Introduction In June 2014, Stefan Sobkowiak and Olivier Asselin released an incredible movie called The Permaculture Orchard: Beyond Organic. Subsequently, Stefan was asked many questions about permaculture, orchards, fruit trees, etc. I decided to compile the questions about the permaculture orchard and the answers here. Most of the questions are taken from the following sources: The permies.com forum, in the growies / forest garden section. Les Fermes Miracle Farms Facebook page The Permaculture Orchard: Beyond Organic’s forum section Lastly, I want to specify that I claim no authorship or any credits at all for what follows, it’s all from elsewhere and only 2 or 3 of the questions are actually mine. If you have any questions for Stefan, especially after watching the movie: The Permaculture Orchard, Beyond Organic, please post them on the movie’s website forum. This is a long thread so to find what you are looking for, you might want to do CTRL F and type the term you want in the search box. It should work in your PDF reader too. Stefan answers multiples questions everyday so not all his answers are included.
    [Show full text]
  • TEN BASICS of WHEN and HOW to PRUNE FRUIT TREES by Paul Vossen
    TEN BASICS OF WHEN AND HOW TO PRUNE FRUIT TREES by Paul Vossen 1. Prune fruit trees when the leaves are off (dormant). It’s easier to see what you are doing and removal of dormant buds (growing points) invigorates the remaining buds. Summer pruning removes leaves (food manufacturer), slows fruit ripening, and exposes fruit to sunburn. Summer pruning can be used, however, to slow down overly vigorous trees or trees that are too large. It is most effective in early summer. 2. Right after planting a new tree, cut it off to a short stick 24 to 30 inches high and cut any side shoots remaining below that to 1-2 buds. This encourages low branching and equalizes the top and root system. Paint the tree with white latex paint to protect it from sunburn and borer attack. 3. Low vigor, young trees should be pruned fairly heavily and encouraged to grow rapidly for the first 3 years without much fruit. Leave most of the small horizontal branches untouched for later fruiting. Vigorous growing, young trees can be pruned much less or not at all and encouraged to fruit earlier with branch bending. 4. Topping a vertical branch encourages vegetative growth necessary for development of the tree and creates a bushing effect. Topping horizontal branches is done to renew fruiting wood and to thin off excessive fruit. Thinning vertical branches opens the tree to more light. Thinning horizontal branches removes fruit. Horizontal branches left uncut will bear earlier and heavier crops. 5. Upright branches generally remain vegetative and vigorous.
    [Show full text]
  • Basic Guidelines for Pruning Trees and Shrubs
    H1036 (Revised) Basic Guidelines for Pruning Trees and Shrubs Ron Smith All woody landscape plants Extension Horticulturist (retired) will need pruning during their Todd Weinmann Extension Agent, lifetime. The objectives Agriculture and Natural of pruning are to Resources - Horticulture Joe Zeleznik produce strong, healthy Extension Forester and aesthetically attractive plants that complement our property. You can achieve these objectives by gaining an understanding of why, how and when to prune, as well as a few basic pruning principles. Why Prune? The leading answer to this question should be for safety reasons. Remove branches that could fall, or any branches or shrubs that interfere with the line of sight on driveways or streets. Homeowners should not get involved in pruning that requires climbing or working anywhere close to power lines. Allow North Dakota State University trained professionals to do that work. If locating a professional is a Fargo, North Dakota problem, then contact the NDSU Extension agent in your county to Reviewed and reprinted April 2015 get a recommendation on whom to hire. When planting a tree, think about how that tree will form as it grows: Will it stay within the available space at maturity? Will the branching characteristics have the strength to develop a form suitable for the site? Many times, future maintenance can be reduced significantly if you select the right tree or shrub for the particular location. Other reasons for pruning are disease or insect control. Pruning for diseases such as black knot of Prunus spp. Figure 3. Best: (chokecherry especially) and Figure 1. Bad: Figure 2.
    [Show full text]
  • Innovative Horticultural Strategies for a New Permaculture Century
    Horticultural Strategies and Liberation Technologies Cultivating Abundance in a limited world • The primary bond: learning to consciously rely on living systems again • Restoring, cultivating and utilizing the fecundity of nature to meet our needs • Horticultural strategies- how we cultivate the plants and land in our care with informed intent. Liberation Technology • The technologies that aid in our liberation from global corporate dominance, a system that seeks to insert itself for a profit as an intermediary between us, all our human needs, and our relationships with others and the world. Czech fermentation pot Lid and airlock Ceramic weights Horticultural Strategy • The locally adapted systematic methodology we use to cultivate the plants in our care to meet our needs over time. • Every useful plant benefits from an associated horticultural strategy and maintenance plan for a long, healthy, and productive life. • Bring gardens to wherever people live. • Conserves water, minimizes effort once established. • Very simple, world saving, growing system. – Water reservoir – Membrane/wick – Soil containment – Soil with high OM or capillarity Wicking Bucket Garden Upper bucket Before filling with soil Wicking Garden Beds Hugelkultur • Burying woody carbon in hills and beds. • Works for annual and perennial gardens. • On contour or off contour? • May need extra water at establishment Sepp Holzer’s Hugelkultur Diagram Crop comparison Excavate Trench Add logs Add coarse and woody materials Add non-woody layers Add fine material last Cover with excavated soil Mulching the sides Finished Hugelkultur Bed Hugelswale Tall Beds Framed Hugelkultur Palisade style Micro Hugelkultur Deep Bed Soil Building • Double Digging scaled and speeded up • The method: one time deep tilthing and remineralizing with big tools • Deep cultivation: incorporating OM and minerals.
    [Show full text]