Rene Lalique Shaun Leane

In your written exam you will have to compare and contrast the work of two designers. Remember the following sentence it will help you remember the similarities and differences in the designer’s work that you should discuss. “St Paul’s Pupils’ Can Make Tasty Sausage Sandwiches On Toast!!!” Rene Lalique THE Shaun Leane b.1860 – 1945 DESIGNERS Began working in 1980’s to France present day – London, UK Lalique was an important figure in ‘This is my signature; something the “Art nouveau” movement. that’s refined, delicate, but This movement was inspired by powerful.’ natural, organic forms, like Organic forms are one of Leane’s flowers and plants; favourite inspirations. He Lalique’s work consisted of soft, describes nature as beautiful and flowing curved lines. fragile yet there are hidden He also liked to use female figures elements of strength and and faces in his work; danger. He like to create balance Feminine, detailed, realistic. in his pieces Many of Lalique’s design were Soft flowing lines paired with symmetrical. sharp points S for SHAPE Dragonfly woman corsage ornament, 1898. Gold, enamel, moonstones, and diamonds Tahitian pearl and pheasant claw earrings by for McQueen, 2001 Detailed, feminine, Art Nouveau P Statement jewellery, wearable art, Statement jewellery. for Detailed. Avant Garde (meaning PRODUCT experimental & innovative) Very detailed, fairly large, heavy Larger fashion pieces which were pieces so not very easy to wear. P commissioned by McQueen were for made from lightweight materials PRACTICALITY which made them easy to wear down the runway. Not for everyday wear, were designed to complement and add extra drama to fashion pieces. Inspired by nature; Similar to Lalique… Greens, blues and purples. Inspired by nature, as seen in Rich and fairly bold the thistle brooch. Colour is added to the jewellery using enamel. C A limited colour palette, often Enamel is a powdered glass which for just one colour used. COLOUR is heated then melted and on to the metal. Colour is often added with Colour was also added by using stones, such as moonstones, different precious stones. diamonds, coloured pearls For larger fashion show pieces, Precious metals – gold, silver non-precious materials were used, Precious stones – opals, aluminium, feathers, ivory, as diamonds, pearls M they are fairly inexpensive and Also used non-precious materials for lightweight. such as horn, glass and enamel. MATERIALS For his fine jewellery Leane uses precious metals such as gold, silver, and platinum. He also uses, diamonds, pearls, and moonstones. Plique-á-jour - A French name for Pave – A technique where stones enamel that has no backing. The are set very tightly, as in a design is outlined in metal and pavement; the stones are set low filled with coloured transparent and very closely spaced. enamels giving an effect like a (Technique used by Leane in the stained glass window. thistle brooch with the black diamonds on the leaves) Chantlevé is a process Lalique used where the surface of the T Live casting – The subject or metal was engraved with a design for object is immersed in alginate, a then enamel was poured into the TECHNIQUE liquid gel substance which is made carved areas. Was used to create by mixing the alginate powder with a feeling of depth in the pieces. water, when set it has the characteristics of rubber. The Lost-wax Casting - The process mixed gel is then poured of creating a wax model of the object that is being made. The wax over/around the object; it is then is sculpted into the desired form, covered with bandages to contain plaster is then poured into a walled the gel. When completely set, it area such a box to create a mold. sets within 15 minutes, the subject The wax is then melted away to or object can be pulled out and the leave a hollow chamber in the negative space that is left is the middle of the mold, liquid metal is mold. Plaster/concrete can then be then poured into a mold. When the poured in to create a cast of the metal is set and the mold is object. This is how the concrete opened the piece is then removed cast was made to fit the coiled from the mold. corset. (Technique for Leane’s the (This technique was/is used by coiled corset, also the technique used Lalique and Leane create their to cast the real human skeleton for small pieces of detailed, fine the spine corset.) jewellery such at the thistle brooch and dragonfly woman corsage) 3D printing – This process builds objects out of plastic and metal T directly from computer generated for drawings. The drawings are TECHNIQUE transformed into objects that have cont. been cross sectioned into thousands of layers. Art Nouveau, Elegant but with an aggressive detailed, decorative, feminine, edge. He often uses flowing lines elegant and luxurious S which are a characteristic of art for nouveau but combines this with STYLE spikes or macabre (meaning gruesome) shapes like a claw. Pieces tended to be large to Similar to Lalique… make a statement. So they were S Pieces tended to be large to noticeable but the size would have for make a statement. So they were also made them impractical. SIZE/SCALE noticeable but the size would have also made them impractical. Like/dislike? Then explain why… Like/dislike? Then explain why… O for OPINION Would have been worn by the rich Pieces are unusual and large in and wealthy, due the metals, scale so would be worn as a stones and time Lalique put into statement piece, and so it would each piece. T probably be worn by a fashion Pieces have a mature feel to them for conscious individual. which also gives the impression TARGET the wearer would have a fashion AUDIENCE conscious, sophisticated, classic style. .

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