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14 29 ISSUE FOUR : JULY 9 - JULY 22 , 2004 Articles 06 GREENPEACE AND ICELAND: PARTNERS? Or do the whales still get caught in between 08 THE MIDGARD SERPENT LIVES And he´s going to do us in 12 WHERE IS THE MULTICULTURAL SOCIETY? A day at Höfði, Reagan and Gorbachev´s old haunt. 26 PLEASE DON´T DISTURB SIGURRÓS Bart tries to have a conversation with the elusive band Feature 10 PUNK IS DEAD BUT THE PUNKS STILL LIVE Where is the illustrious cast of Rokk í Reykjavík now? The Reykjavík Grapevine crew Fashion, Food and Drink The Reykjavík Grapevine Hafnarstræti 15, 2nd floor [email protected] 13 MOTHER TONGUE LICKS T-SHIRTS INTO SHAPE A brief history of T-shirts Editors: 561-2323 / 845-2152 / [email protected] Advertising: 562-1213 / 869-7796 / [email protected] 24 BEERMAN IN: Distribution: 562-1213 / 898-9249 / [email protected] Comforts don´t come cheap Listings: 562-1213 / 869-7796 / [email protected]

Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Arts & Culture Editor: Valur Gunnarsson / [email protected] Co-editor: Robert Jackson / [email protected] 18 MAN BITES SHARK Listings editor: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson A true story / [email protected] 20 SHOPPING IN FRONT OF SUFFERING Production manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson But the clerks don´t seem to mind / [email protected] Creative director: Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] Music & Nightlife Photographer: Hörður Sveinsson / [email protected] Proofreader: Paul Fontaine-Nikolov 18 THE GRUMPIEST MAN IN DUBLIN Art Correspondent: Marcie Hume An exclusive non-interview with Lou Reed 20 OUTCLASSING METALLICA Advertising directors: Hilmar Steinn & Jón Trausti Bart manages to trade words with Krummi Distribution: Hrafn Þráinsson & Jóhann Páll Hreinsson

Cover photo by: Hörður Sveinsson Outside Reykjavík On cover: Friðrik Álfur Mánason Special thanks to: Gallerí 17 28 ON THE RIVERBANK WITH BUBBI And he´s in a good mood Printed by: Ísafoldarprentsmiðja ehf. # of copies: 30.101 Planned day tours:

Landmanna- The Golden Volcano Iceland Glacier laugar Hekla Circle in a Nutshell Mýrdalsjökull Volcano Hekla Explosion crater A real 4x4 safari Glacier • Geological wonders Extraordinary landscape Hot natural bath Colors and craters • Geologival adventure Snowmobile ride Glaciers • Hot springs • Lava caves Unique combination of fire and ice LETTERS Complaints, criticism, suggestions, praise, money in new, unmarked bills, anything at all: Contact [email protected] or send your mail to: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík

Received sms: flýgur (When the Raven Flies), the very film that taught a The regulars at Kaffi Vín support you wholeheartedly generation of Swedes to say “Tungur Knivur.” The mistake 100%. It´s about time Icelanders accept the fact that the was not Þráins, as we translated his comments ourselves. The world reaches farther out than 200 nautical miles and translator would be summarily punished, were it not for the includes things that can even be more interesting than fact that he is also the editor. Hence, a gentle “better luck next sour food, brennivín and Americanized Vikings. time” will do.

Finally, someone who´s not acting out of self-interest. Dear editor, All the anchor people at Channel 2 got the latest issue PS. Moli demands a party and we all want to see Vín on of Grapevine sent, apart from me. Is this because all my your map. female colleagues at the channel are blonde and blue- Oh, well. eyed, but not me? Regards, Received phone call: Sólveig Kr. Bergmann Góða kvöldið. Pétur Pétursson heiti ég og mér langaði til að benda á málfarsvillu í sambandi við bréf eftir þig sem Grapeviners prefer blondes. var birt í Fréttablaðinu. Þú talar þar um magn af fólki, en í íslensku talar maður um fjölda fólks og magn af kjöti. Dear grapevine read your paper all three of them ex- Takk fyrir og gangi ykkur vel. celent. Apart from the ask the American. This is a coun- try that thinks it’s ok to carpet bomb a whole country to This would lose the point in English. But at least you know get one person. And to invade another to find another. people are listening to what you´re saying when they call you It’s also the only country that has two national sports up in the evening to correct your grammar. sports contests and calls them world contests wwf and world series. i think you would have been better asking [email protected] wrote: the teletubbies . The white power community all over the Nordic coun- 3546984354 [[email protected]] tries seems to be mad at you because of some prank you pulled, involving a black model and a national costume. But surely you can´t hold the entire population responsible for What gives? the World Wrestling Federation and the war in Iraq . A lot of Americans are actually quite sensible despite the actions If nothing else, at least I´ve managed to unite Scandinavian of a government the majority of them didn´t vote for. Some Nazidom. Now, if only our side would stop bickering among Icelanders, even, have been found to be sensible despite the ac- themselves. tions of a government that the majority of them did vote for.

From the stormfront.org website: Dear Sir Scandinavia nationalist: A liberal commie photogra- After visiting the Víkingahátíð (Viking festival) in pher got the splendid idea to take a picture of a negress Hafnarfjörður I came away an enlightened man. I had in the national uniform with some beautiful Icelandic no idea the Vikings had discovered electricity and were nature behind to prettify the front page of some business able to use computers, more glasses, watches and smoked magazine… cigarettes!! White Iceland: As you can imagine, being an English I did however know of their tradition for plundering and paper, many of the writers and readers are immigrants stealing, a tradition reflected in the price they charged for and the editorial policy is libertarian to leftist… a drink. They robbed me of 950kr for a single rum and coke. Yours sincerely, They then go on to say they smell blood and print my number Colin Porter, 101 Reykjavík and address as well as that of Sheba for any of its mem- bers interested. But I´m glad to hear that we´re libertarian We like the Viking festival. But we don´t like the price of commie leftists who run a business magazine. I think that alcohol in Iceland. Vikings should band together and do covers pretty much the whole spectrum. Except, of course, for something about this. Nazism. But apparently Nazis are not the only ones who are confused: Dear Grapevine- Crew, As a foreigner living in Iceland I find it really refreshing Heard at a party at the American embassy: and amusing to read in a magazine how Iceland really is. Óli Tynes: You´re all communists! In fact you are the only magazine I´ve seen which covers Grapevine: Why? even negative experiences and reveals that not everything Óli Tynes: YOU put a black woman in the national is quite that “best í heimi” like the Icelanders would like costume. it to be. It really seems that the Icelanders have a big Grapevine: And that makes me a communist. Define the problem with being such a small nation and compensate word communist. for this by telling themselves (and no one else would Óli Tynes: I don´t have to, you are all communists etc.. believe them) that everything Icelandic is “best í heimi”. Sincerly Yours, becko! Hi. Grapevine -Best í heimi Thank you for the 3rd issue of Grapevine that I received today, I have in fact read the others with pleasure. Well Dear Jondi, Hilmar and Valur, written and edited material. It is useful to have a look at If you are able to rise to the occasion, you may very well the country and the people from the outside. But you create one of those magical whirlwinds about which art should look at one thing: In the Top 8 movies, by Þráin historians write and upon which future writers reflect Bertelsson on page 30 it says: “3. When the Raven Flies” for inspiration and validation! If you do not challenge (Í skugga hrafnsins). one another - everyone involved with the paper, writers, This is confusing. It is the film Hrafninn flýgur editors, etc. - and hold one another accountable, then you (1984) which in English is called When the Raven Flies will create nothing special and simply add to the sewer (also Revenge of the Barbarians). Í skugga hrafnsins we, the public, consume on a daily basis. Please don’t do (1988) is called in English In the Shadow of the Raven. that to us. Best wishes, Ólafur H. Torfason So here’s my rant…

You´re a perceptive man, Ólafur. Not only did you notice #1. Editor, you’re not doing your job! You continue to… the fine quality of the editing, but you also managed to find a mistake. The film Þráinn mentions is indeed Hrafninn The rest of this letter has been edited out. WULFFMORGENTHALER

see more at www.wulffmorgenthaler.com EDITORIAL AFTER THE DECLINE OF WESTERN CIVILISATION by Valur Gunnarsson

When I moved back to Iceland in 1990, it seemed the scene was still living in the shadow of Rokk í Reykjavík. In fact, there was something of a punk revival going on.

has come to take it for granted. Since punk, there hasn´t been any move- Except now it was called Death ment to belong to. Metal, and the disaffected wore long In the wake of punk, we´ve seen hair and trainers rather than Mo- the triumph of greed not just as a so- hawks and steel tipped boots. Metal cial system but as an ideology. Were heads and diehard punks coexisted the punks in some way to blame for peacefully, if occasionally attacked the decline of western civilisation by the better groomed but probably that came in their wake? worse disposed guys from the pool Since punk, caring has been de- halls. cidedly uncool. “I don´t give a fuck” The left wing politics of Utan- became the slogan of young rebels. garðsmenn and the Clash had long We´ve had postmodernism, artists since disappeared. Instead we had complaining that everything has been a lot of songs about autopsies and done, philosophers analysing nothing other forms of corpse mutilation. In but philosophy and comedians who the absence of anything to say which made fun of the downtrodden rather might have challenged convention, than the rich and powerful. the disgruntled went for shock effect Perhaps when punk tore eve- for its own sake. Communism had rything down ideologically, there collapsed, punk had finally killed off was nothing left to build on. For the hippies who managed to hang on someone who grew up on anarchism, longer here than anywhere else. But making the jump to libertarian what did we have instead? wasn´t that hard. It was all too easy The punks, just as the hippies, to be against all rules, even the ones grew up and got jobs in advertising that were set in the poor´s favour. agencies and at phone companies. You could pretend to be an anarchist The hippies tried to build a better and still make money, as long as society, and failed. The punks then you opposed government interven- attempted to tear down that society, tion. Which, if you´re rich, you´d but their fire was short lived. The do anyway. As the film Bob Roberts hippies did to some extent achieve said: “The times they are a-changing equality between genders and races, back.” The 60s revolution had finally which in the 90s seemed outdated, the state of the world. Perhaps the although problems related to these been undone. in their speeches. We again need to time is ripe for a new revolution. have refused to go away entirely. But Four years into the new century, deal with fundamental questions that But this time, we need to be more what did the punks leave behind? and things may be changing back not long ago seemed to belong to an clear on exactly what it is we want to Punk may have been the final again. After September the 11th earlier age. We again need to take achieve. generational attempt to rebel against 2001, ideology has returned with to the streets. A new breed of punk capitalism wholesale. Since then, de- a vengeance. Our leaders are back swears against drugs and alcohol, is spite periodic complaining, everyone to using words like good and evil, vegetarian and very concerned about Passing through was a very strange idea to come here tells us that 278.000 people live here, Nicky: I thought he was your king. for a Honeymoon. They thought a they must be right about that. warm Mediterranean country was a Have you heard about the cur- much more normal place to go to. What’s your favourite spot in rent debate in Iceland? Reykjavík? Err… is it about joining the EU Have you been here long? Nicky: The pond with the ducks perhaps? We just arrived yesterday. down by the City hall. Tim: I like the view from the Have you tried any Icelandic How do you like Iceland? harbour, the surrounding mountains delicacies? We haven’t seen much of it yet, only and especially Snæfellsjökull glacier We had fish, but nothing really Names? Reykjavík and Reykjavík feels much are beautiful. Icelandic. Yesterday we went to Tim and Nicky more like a small town in England Sjávarkjallarinn restaurant and today than a nations capital. Do you know who Björk is? we ate out at Café Sólon. Where are you from? Yes! We also know Sigurrós, they We’re from Norwich, England. How don’t you like Iceland? won the MTV awards for best video Any famous last words? Everything is sooo expensive. this year. Iceland; Weird, friendly, save and What are you doing in Iceland? the water smells funny. We’re here on a Honeymoon. And How many people live in Ice- Do you know who Ólafur Rag- may we add that most our friends land? nar Grímsson is? and relatives back home thought it Well, our Lonely Planet guidebook No. Tim: Is he a hockey player?

16 hotels NONNI OG MANNI YDDA / sia.is NM12339 Tel. (+354)444 4000 around iceland �������

6 GREENPEACE AND ICELAND: PARTNERS? by Paul Fontaine-Nikolov

To many in Iceland, the name “Greenpeace” is synonymous with �� the term “bleeding heart whale-huggers”, a group of angry young ����� people shouting slogans who sailed into port last summer and have now returned. To many, they fail to understand the cultural signifi- cance of whale hunting to the average Icelander and make moun- tains out of molehills by protesting the killing of a mere 25 minke Referendum in doubt Parliament whales (down from 36 last summer). Some have even gone so far was called to a as to say that they’ve fabricated some of their evidence. A couple of special summer whaling ships were sunk in Reykjavík harbour in 1986, for which session and some have blamed Greenpeace. have proposed a revised media bill. There are questioned about some of the accusa- no clear rules for a referendum tions made against Greenpeace in the and the rules are even less clear past, his response was, “Greenpeace Why then does Frode Pleym, about what happens when a bill is has a long history. Any organisation campaign director for Greenpeace in revised after one has been called. Iceland, say: “This year our response which has been around as long as has been so positive and receptive, we have is bound to make mistakes Teenagers think it “uncool” to it’s been almost boring.” and do stupid things. But two things call parents need clarifying. Firstly, a documen- Research tary claiming that the clubbing I was taken on board the Esper- among Reyk- of baby seals was a hoax by a Mr. anza, the Greenpeace ship sitting in javík teenag- Guðmundsson was rejected by the Reykjavík harbour, by Irene Berg, ers has now Oslo City Court as being unsubstan- the web editor for Greenpeace. I was conclusively tiated. Second, it was not Green- introduced to Marcee Benson, one of proven that peace that sunk a whaling ship but Greenpeace’s “cyber-activists”. they think it “uncool” to call their Sea Shepherd. That group was run parents. Among other findings are by a former member of Greenpeace Marcee’s approach to encouraging that it is considered “cool” to be who was thrown out for having ideas the end of whaling is more diplo- able to write text messages quickly which run counter to our agenda of matic than confrontational. She has and talk a lot on the phone. The peaceful action.” collected the testimonies of over science world is still waiting to see 57,000 people who said they would how this will affect previously held Pleym discussed the “scientific pur- seriously consider vacationing in opinions of the species. Iceland rather than somewhere else poses” given by the Icelandic govern- if Iceland halts whaling. Greenpeace ment for whaling: “The main reason No fatalities at Metallica con- intends to hand over the e-mails of given has been to find out what cert whales eat. This can be done without all of these people to various tour- Four people killing them, first of all. Second, if ist industries in Iceland when the were trans- they see the minke whales as a threat whaling stops. According to their ported to to the fish stocks, they would need website, what this could mean for emergency

to kill at least 25% of them before H.S. Iceland in terms of real money would care at the it would have any effect on the fish be over $10 million dollars per year hospital and roughly a hundred population, which most Icelanders in tourist revenue, even if only 15% were given aid by emergency agree is an unsustainable number of [Hafrannsóknarstofnun, a marine eats only about 0.05 kilos of whale of these pledges actually visited workers on the spot at a presenta- whales to kill. In addition, it doesn’t research group] also happens to be meat each year. By contrast, whale Iceland - a percentage which most tion by American corporation address the real threats to the fish a part of the Ministry of Fisheries. watching in Húsavík is booming. travel agencies confirm is a realistic Metallica at Egilshöll. The arena stock, such as climate change and sea Hardly an independent source of Hundreds of people all over Iceland expectation. As most Greenpeace was opened to let more air in as it pollution - two things which both information on the whale’s effect on enjoy whale watching every day. We members are consumate travellers got stifling hot, which may have Iceland and Greenpeace are acting in fish stocks.” want to act more as a partner with by nature, this percentage would contributed to the absence of probably be much higher. Iceland’s cooperation with each other to end.” Iceland, rather than an opponent.” Greenpeace is doing a lot to live fatalities. annual commercial whaling, at its down their “angry protestor” image. peak, brought in only $4 million. Why are some Icelanders trying The Greenpeace office in Iceland so hard to continue whaling? Pleym says: “We don’t want our mes- will be open until mid-July. Those A cook happily chopped the If all this is true, why are some sage to be, ‘You must stop whaling wishing to learn more can visit their legs off of a whole lamb Icelanders trying so hard to con- now!’ but rather, ‘It would be wise for website at www.greenpeace.org you to stop’. To this end, the tourist We went below deck, to the galley, tinue whaling? “Apart from Kristján industry in Iceland has actually been where a cook happily chopped the Loftsson, head of a whaling company the strongest voice of protest against legs off of a whole lamb, in prepa- Hvalur hf. having a lot of politi- whaling. By the Ministry of Fisheries ration for the evening meal. Soon cal power, there is also a conflict of own figures, the average Icelander Frode Pleym joined us and when interest,” says Pleym, “Hafró

Here comes ritorial waters that stretch 200 miles that there are in the order of 43,000 quarters of their annual food intake around its coastline provide Europe minke whales in Icelandic territo- while they are here. Iceland has a and particularly the UK with its cod. rial waters. Minke whales are an legitimate right to run its fisheries as Esperanza What the environmentalists seem to odd mixture, for although they are it thinks best, and if that involves the overlook is that the Icelanders have filter-feeding, baleen, they will eat cull of minke whales, then so be it. by Robert Jackson managed their fisheries and seen fish and squid, and, although they them increase over the last decade, are migratory, they will also establish What about the tourists while others have presided over the home ranges. So, they not only eat Where Iceland has got it wrong is The thought of an explosive charge in a whale’s brain unsettles virtual annihilation of their territorial fish, but also the food that fish eat. how they are going about it. Their me as it does most others. There are few more emotive sights than a fish-stocks. They dine off the entire length of the second most important source of harpooned whale; it’s up there along with the clubbed seal and the food chain if you like, and monitor- revenue is tourism. Not only does It is just not realistic to assume that ing the food chain is an essential Iceland export most of its fish to the tusk-less elephant in the top ten images of inhuman cruelty. They this scientific cull is the Icelandic part of fishery management, and you UK but it also imports the bulk of are powerful tools and should be used sagely. In the wrong hands way of finding a backdoor into can’t find out with certainty what its tourists from here, too. The cull their pornographic effect can be used to manipulate and deceive. The commercial whaling. In years to a minke is eating without looking started at the beginning of the tour- prospect of a few whales being culled is good news for Greenpeace come, if on the balance of scientific into its stomach. A cull of 27 minkes ist season when whale watching is at evidence they see their fishery is represents less than 0.01 per cent of its peak and as minke whales over- and the IWF for they provide an opportunity to raise awareness and being affected by the presence of the total Icelandic minke popula- winter in territorial waters, there is fundraise, hence the arrival of Esperanza. minke whales, then it is probable tion. The cull falls into insignificance no reason for the cull to coincide Good and evil, Walt Disney in the Northern hemisphere, some that they’ll wish a more extensive when measured against the global with the tourist migration. style the Southern, some are endangered, cull. But, so it is with elephant herds population of minke whales. Yes, there will be 27 less whales to Greenpeace are no strangers to spe- some are not. For the avoidance of in Zimbabwe, where protection has watch in Iceland at the end of the cious science and emotive argument; doubt the minke whale is not endan- been such a success that they are now The Icelandic economy relies on its summer but that is hardly the point. the sort that lumps all whales into gered. There has been a worldwide destroying food stocks for other less fish exports. Their fisheries cover an There will also be Icelandic cod well one category and all whalers the ban on whale hunting of all species voracious species. area of over 500,000 square miles into the foreseeable future, there other. Good and evil as Walt Disney since 1989, however, scientific culling and, as far as it is possible to manage will be minke whales in abundance They come here to eat would tell it. Whales are not all the is permitted. an area of open sea that size, are and, hopefully next year, Greenpeace same; there are many different spe- It is estimated, and estimates will meticulously monitored and man- will find a more worthwhile venue cies. Some eat fish, some don’t, some Iceland has one of the world’s last vary up to 50 per cent plus or minus aged. Whales come to Iceland to for its fundraising and promotional are big, some are small, some live productive fishing grounds. Its ter- when it comes to counting whales, feed, some consuming over three- activities.

8 THE MIDGARD SERPENT LIVES

by Erna Kaaber �� For thousands of years the giant serpent has surfaced in mythol- ����� ogy. Past cultures have described him as, among other things, the swirling protector of the earth and the destroyer of the gods. The creature is thought to dwell in the oceans, swimming his course in Elderly American mobbed by the period of a thousand years and girdles the world holding his tail Icelandic women in his mouth. Recently, our new myth-makers, the scientists, have 62 year old Har- rison Ford went rediscovered the beast, giving him a brand new name - the Con- out for a drink veyor belt. at Thorvaldsen Not long ago men discovered how The disturbances of Jörmungandur, one Friday night. the ocean currents flow in counter the Midgard Serpent, is a part of the He was there directions, on the surface and doomsday scenario described in the mobbed by a beneath. All the world´s oceans are old sayings of the “völvas”. Edda, the group of elderly women who tried connected by this mechanism of collected sayings of the Scandinavian to kiss and touch him and had to nature. The weather and our well- myths, informs us that a giant winter, be escorted out by doormen. He being are derived from this ‘great Fimbulvetur, will come at the end then fled to Dillon, where the serpent’. The warm water flows to of times. It is supposed to last for younger patrons allowed him to the North Atlantic, ensuring a mild three years causing devastation to the drink in peace. climate which cools and sinks north inhabitants of the world, changing of Iceland. In currents in the sea the climate dramatically. As the old Oddsson and Bush discuss depths the water travels and will Prophecy has it: future of the NATO base not surface again until it reaches the In a meeting engages in the final battle with Indian Ocean or the Pacific. From It gorges upon the flesh of death- on July 6th in Thor, the great warrior-son of the there it travels back in a seemingly promised men, If there is any consolation, the Washington, earth, Fjörgyn. That great warrior endless circle. Or is it indeed It bloodies the Gods seat; Old Norse mythologies promised a D.C. Prime gives Jörmundgandur his final blow, endless? Black will shine the sun fair afterlife, although very few made Minister Davíð but Thor only manages to take nine During next summers, it as almost the entire population was Oddsson and President George steps away from the grand serpent The end of our civilisation Awful all the storms. wiped out of existence. W. Bush discussed the as-yet un- corpse and there he drops dead “Conveyor belt” is not a fancy name, Do you still need more? determined future of the NATO himself, unable to bear the venom at least not as fancy as earlier cultures It is only a little more than a decade base in Iceland. Bush said that his from the serpents mouth. gave this luring serpent that encircles Thor battles the Serpent ago that wise men of our time administration still needs to gather discovered the interconnectedness the earth. It had elegant names as More is Ragnarök, the end of the The next Ice Age more information before making Nü-Kua, Tiamat and Aido-Hwedo world as we know it (and I feel fine of the world oceans and how life any formal decisions, but that Ice- The weak spot in the ocean’s but here in Iceland those phenomena -ed.). Men will be at each others on earth draws its life from this land will continue to play in active conveyor belt is north of Iceland. were called Jörmundgandur or the throats, the innocent will suffer and magnificent mechanism. Honest role in US foreign policy. Scientists worry that rapidly melting Midgard-serpent. The old myths tell dreadful giants will roam the earth scientists will admit that the arctic ice will result in a huge his tale. He was a tiny little creature fighting the old Æsir-gods (I wonder elements of this ocean serpent are Hringbraut re-construction increase in the flow of fresh and cold in the beginning, born of a giant how REM feel about that -ed). still hidden from them. Most will quakes neighborhood currents from the north. This in called Angur-boða, fathered by the admit as well that even a slight Hringbraut, turn could disrupt the conveyor belt trickster Loki. He was thrown into From the East drives Hrymur, lifts disturbance of Jörmungand could which will or possibly push south the northern the oceans by Odin, the high god of up his shield; have a tremendous impact on be moved off sink. That could again lead to the the old Scandinavian religion, where Jörmungandur squirms with rage our lives. If man by his actions is its current next Ice Age, with permafrost in it seems as though the mighty one Taken by the giants’ frenzy. disturbing the peace of the serpent, location to join most parts of Northern America sealed his own fate. The great worm whips the waves he might have sacrificed too much. Miklabraut, and Europe. The worst thing is that the pale-beaked eagle Niðfölur pecks has involved the use of explosives, scientists have a hard time settling Nobody knows for sure how at the dead, Odin, possibly thinking as a true much to the dismay of residents their differences on whether this will fragile the Conveyor belt is or how The ship of death Naglfari is free. environmentalist might have, had in the area where the blasting is be a gradual change, taking decades, any change in the flow of these this in mind when he says in his being done, who have compared or whether this will not materialise magnificent ocean rivers will reflect Odin himself is swallowed by the poem: “Better not to pray at all, than the tremours to earthquakes. The in hundreds or thousands of years. upon the stability of tomorrow´s Fenris-wolf and other gods drop to sacrifice too much. A gift requires blasting, according to planners, Then again, there is evidence, for climate. Those who fear the worst dead in as different ways as they a gift in return”. is supposed to end in a few days, example from the core drilling to the see a new Ice Age and the end of are many. The world-serpent, although no date has been set. bottom of Greenland Glacier, that our civilisation as a result of any Jörmungandur, twists and turns in Or do we still need more? climate changes can be sudden. disturbance of the Midgard serpent. the ocean, causing a tidal wave and Þingvellir becomes part of UNESCO world heritage list Þingvellir, Happy Birthday to Freedom the site of the world´s by Paul Fontaine-Nikolov first parlia- ment in the year 930, was formally added to Iceland is no longer the isolated nation it once was and as the UNESCO´s list of world heritage world gets smaller, some of the harder facts of life for many in this sites on 3 July at an international world have made it to our fair shores. In response to this, many meeting held in Suzhou, China. Minister of Justice Björn Bjar- Icelanders have been active in charities, volunteer work, and human narson, who was in attendance, rights issues. It was this growing spirit of “we have to do something” described the meeting as “more which lead to the formation of the Icelandic division of Amnesty dramatic” then he´d expected. International thirty years ago. Whither the F-15s? While the history of Amnesty particular focus on the prisoners

International in Iceland is a modest being held in Guantánamo Bay, H.S. one, what they’ve been able to in Iraq, and in Afghanistan. Their accomplish in this short time tactics are simple: the release of International cannot act in the is nothing short of remarkable. one major report every year, several in Amnesty International t-shirts. country to which it belongs. Formally established on September smaller reports throughout the year, These are members of Amnesty Although there are exceptions to 15, 1974 at the Nordic House, and the well known letter-writing International who are part of a new this rule - such as in the United While Prime Minister Davíð the initial membership - brought campaign. By sending personal and “fact-to-face” method, wherein they States, where members there can Oddsson was able last May to together through the efforts of diplomatically-worded letters from will personally encourage people to urge their own government to end persuade the US to keep F-15 Sigrún Sigurjónsdóttir - numbered all over the world to authorities take part in Amnesty International. capital punishment - Iceland has fighter planes that they planned to a scant ninety-five. Since then, detaining prisoners of conscience, For you musicians out there who never appeared in an Amnesty withdraw from the NATO base, membership has multiplied and they convey the clear message, “We are concerned about human rights, International report, so it remains he added that if air force personel they’ve employed their tried-and- know what you’re doing and we Amnesty International is planning solidly focused on the world around were to leave, navy personel would true methods to free many political want you to stop.” Surprisingly, on holding a 30th anniversary it and its numbers are growing. have to leave, too, citing the need prisoners, including a man held in even ruthless dictators are concerned concert in mid-September. All There is no typical Amnesty for a clear committment from Syria for fifteen years before the about public relations, and Amnesty interested bands should get in touch International volunteer; they the United States regarding their government finally agreed to release International’s efforts have generally with them now, as bookings are represent many different races, presence in Iceland. The Bush ad- him. been successful. filling up quickly. religions and political points of view ministration has maintained that - but they all share a deep concern the F-15s are needed elsewhere. Since 9/11, Amnesty International Amnesty International also employs Anyone interested in learning more for human rights. has been very busy trying to ensure what’s known as an “own country about Amnesty International can that human rights are not sacrificed rule”; for reasons of safety and visit either www.amnesty.org or This summer, you might notice in the name of security, putting objectivity, a division of Amnesty www.amnesty.is young people walking the streets

P UNk i S D e A d BUT THE PUNKS LIVE ON WELL

PHOTOS INTERVIEWS HÖRÐUR SVEINSSON PADRAIG MARA by Valur Gunnarsson MOST OF THEM to play their instruments. Being barely 14 at the time, they sport Mohawks and smash their instruments. Their song Lollipop, as For the true punk, self destruction often seems to be the ulti- catchy as it is simple, was the first (and in some cases only) song mate form of self expression. True punks, it seems, rarely live many succeeding punks ever learnt to play. long. Punk bands that live long are even rarer. ANYWAY Of course, the debate still rages as to what constitutes a up for Fræbbblarnir, and immediately became a sensation. The punks conquer the world true punk. The bands that have subsequently been called punk Headed by Bubbi Morthens and the Pollock brothers, they appeared in the US in the late 60´s, bands such as the Stooges, were a raw blues rock outfit that, almost by accident, landed It is interesting to note that none of the bands in Rokk í The Velvet Underground and the MC5 being a very dark un- at the forefront of the rising movement. In their mid twenties, Reykjavík, barring reunions, lasted very long. Within two years dercurrent to the peace and love generation. Punk first became they were almost a decade older than the punks. Although they all of them had disappeared from the scene, many into a haze a movement in New York´s CBGB´s music venue, just at the became by far the most popular of the new groups, something of of drugs. It is interesting to note that here, initially, the punks time the old 60´s supergroups were stagnating in a world of co- a rift developed between their left wing politics and the punks’ drug of choice was hash, probably because it was the most easily caine, lightshows and stadiums. Transported to the UK around nihilism. accessible. Punk in Iceland reeked of hash and fish, giving it a 1976, punk became a mass movement. Whereas in New York it By 1982, they had split up into two bands, Ego, fronted very Icelandic quality. It was perhaps the highpoint of Icelandic had been a small group of artists who espoused punk, in Britain by Bubbi, and Bodies, of whom the Pollock brothers were music. Whereas the hippies here copied foreign bands and at it was picked up on by working class kids who through it voiced members. Bubbi was the obvious star, and a young director, times made embarrassing attempts to conquer the world, the their anger at an unjust class system. But politics and punk have Friðrik Þór Friðriksson, set about making a documentary about punk generation eventually succeeded in doing just that. The never made easy bedfellows. The Clash were one of the most him. But as he got involved in the punk movement, the film leading members of the punk scene eventually formed the band political of groups, whereas the Sex Pistols seemed to stand for expanded to take in all the leading bands. The Sugarcubes together, the first Icelandic band to make an more general nihilism. One of these was Purkkur Pillnik, fronted by Einar Örn impact abroad. Björk then became an international superstar in Benediktsson, who had been the Utangarðsmenn manager even her own right. The director, Friðrik Þór Friðriksson, went on The first Icelandic punks though only 17 at the time. Another was Tappi Tíkarass, whose to win an Oscar nomination and has become probably Iceland´s singer was a certain Björk Guðmundsdóttir. Probably the most most esteemed director both here and abroad. Bubbi, the star of It took punk a while to come to Iceland. It wasn´t until musically accomplished of the groups was Þeyr, who appear in the film, failed to become an export product, but he´s certainly 1979 that Fræbbblarnir, probably the first Icelandic punk band, the film in full Nazi regalia, marching outside the president´s made his mark here, being Iceland´s most consistently best began appearing. Hótel Borg, which for a previous generation home at Bessastaðir. They were close to making it in Britain, selling artist. He´s also a boxing commentator, Idol judge and had been an entertainment hall for the US army, among other but apparently most people didn´t get the joke of their outfits. children´s book author. As for how he´s doing, turn to page 28. things, now became the most exciting live venue in the country. On the other end of the scale is Sjálfsfróun, the punk band But how is everyone else? At one of these concerts, a band called Utangarðsmenn opened most true to the spirit of punk, right down to being barely able Rokk í Reykjavík band: Þeyr Best known for: Playing the guitar on Killer Boogie until his fingertips bled Rokk í Reykjavík band: Purrkur Pillnikk Best known for: Standing immobile on stage while Einar I spoke with God Christ in an art museum in the center of town. He was, Örn rolled around on the floor and is, one the most groundbreaking guitarists that Iceland has produced. God Christ produced a fold-out pamphlet that accompanied Þeyrs first 7” release. On the second page is an incredibly intricate electronic schematic. FRIÐRIK “It’s the quantum mechanics of music,” he says, “I had Einstein and Jimi ERLINGSSON Hendrix for my heroes. We were basically fed up with the crap on the radio, all of it with at most 3 chords, with only slightly different lyrics, it was brainwashing people. If you always hear the same sounds, the brain can not form new thoughts. We wanted to revolutionize people. Every society needs a hippie and a punk revolution. It may do other parts of the world good to have theirs.” Guðlaugur was a founding member of Sugarcubes predeces- sor Kukl. After its demise, he turned his attention to quantum mechanics relating to thermal electric discover- ies, and has been a sessionist on many albums by GUÐLAUGURKRISTINN ÓTTARSSON other artists, notably Megas. Purrkur Pillnikk was one of the most popular and influential bands from this period. Three members of Purrkur, Einar Örn, Friðrik and Bragi would Current profession: Punk rock scientist, musician later go on to join the Sugarcubes. GOD CHRIST “Einar came back from London with God Save the Queen and played it for us. This changed everything. We formed Purrkur Pillnikk to play a concert at a local high school, we slapped together nine songs the night before and just did it. This was in March of ‘81. On April 1st we went into a studio and recorded an entire album in one day. That was the feeling of the time. Like Einar was known to say “It’s not what your able to, but what you actually do that matters.” It was music for the moment, music for now.” Einar Örn, Purrkur’s singer continues to blow minds and speakers with his creation Rokk í Reykjavík band: Tappi Tíkarrass EYÞÓR ARNALDS Ghostigital. Bragi, the groups archivist went on to be a writer and poet. Best known for: Playing the cello bare chested Ásgeir the bands drummer was last heard of training dogs in Norway. Friðrik went on to work for an advertising agency and write books. His best known Part performance art group, part punk band, book is the children´s book Benjamín Dúfa, which has also been made into Tappi Tíkarass’s performance in Rokk í Reykjavík a film. He´s also written the script for Iceland´s first CGI cartoon, Litla ljóta shows a very young Björk dressed and painted as a living lirfan. doll banging on a drum. The man who sang duet with Current profession: Writer her in the film is Eyþór. “Icelandic punk was not a copy, it was a very authentic scene. Tappi Tíkarrass was a good example of this. We had all the energy England had but the art was purely Icelandic. Icelandic history also I think af- fected the sound. We were a colony of Denmark, then for a long time even after independence, things were very strict, like Eastern Europe almost. There was a special tension building, the punk scene here was a release of that tension.” Björk, of course, ascended to the heavens after the film. Jakob the bass- ist has been playing with Bubbi for many years and has joined Ego’s reunion. Eyjólfur the guitarist, imports hi-fi equipment for television VALGARÐUR GUÐJÓNSSON and radio. Eyþór soon quit TT and went to study cello and classical composing. Rokk í Reykjavík band: Fræbbblarnir Upon graduating he forms the band Todmobile, which becomes one of Best known for: Bringing punk rock to Iceland the biggest bands in Iceland. When the band quits he becomes direc- tor of the phone company Íslandssími and runs for the town council for Fræbbblarnir had two songs featured on RíR, both blistering. They re- the independence party. He is still a businessman, but Todmobile had a formed and have continued to record and perform to this day in slightly reunion and made an album with the Icelandic Symphony orchestra. modified form. They attached little value to social commentary in their Current profession: Businessman music. Was the scene in Iceland divided along class lines? “We were from the wrong class for Punk, people felt...we weren´t poor Rokk í Reykjavík band: Sjálfsfróun enough. Many people were into Punk for political reasons...this was not Best known for: Trying to keep the beat while appealing to us. We felt it was much more fun to say something out of string instruments are being trashed at the front of line than make a social statement.” the stage JÓNBJÖRN ÓTTARSSON Do you think that Punk changed anything in your eyes? “It made Rock fun again, it brought back the aggression and intensity, Sjálfsfróun, meaning masturbation in English, were like the early days of Rock and Roll twenty years before. But, as for the lost boys of the early 80’s punk scene in Reykjavík. With an average society, I don’t see that it changed anything.” Out of the original mebers age of 14 years of age, the leather jacketed mohican crew played the role shown in RíR the drummer Stefán is the only one who remains in the to the glue-sniffing trouble-making hilt. If many of the other bands had band. Steinþór died, Tryggvi went back to school and Kristinn opened artistic tendencies, Sjálfsfróun adopted the image and attitude of Brit- up a restaurant. Current profession: Software engineer ish bands like the U.K. Subs and the Exploited. Street Punk was their medium and their message. “What can I say? That was how it was. It’s not as if this was an act. We were being ourselves completely. Either you were punk or you were disco. Bubbi, the Pollocks, Einar Örn, they started everything, we were DANNY the little brothers...no one wanted to talk to us.” POLLOCK Of the band members, Bjarni móhíkani became a sailor. He could often be seen playing around Reykjavík, but is currently living in Denmark. Rokk í Siggi resides at the Reykjavík mental asylumn. Pési the bass player, who Reykjavík band: Bodies was fired from the band shortly before the film was made, od´d in Am- Best known for: Having fistfights with his sterdam. Jónbi works in construction these days. brother on stage when the latter tried to Current profession: Rock and Roller trash guitars BALDURSSON Danny Pollock was around from the begin- ning of Icelandic Punk, guitarist for Utan- Rokk í Reykjavík band: Þeyr SIGTRYGGUR garðsmenn, the biggest band on the scene, Best known for: Bringing Icelandic punk to the world and then Bodies, the band that appeared in Rokk í Reykjavík. Þeyrs´ music was frenetic and dramatic in a distinct way. The “When we were in Utangarðsmenn we band boasted some of the best musicians in the land. went to the manager of Hótel Borg and “We started as a bar band, then we became influenced by asked if we could play on Thursday nights post-punk bands like Joy Division, Siouxise and the Banshees, as there was nothing happening then. We of course the Sex pistols as well...but our sound was very dis- advertised and 800 people showed up... tinct, we were thought to be very left field for the time. Here that got the ball rolling right there. Me it was more of an art movement than a punk movement... and Einar Örn went out and found all these it was more about energy. Everyone felt like they could do garage bands to play with us.” SOMETHING... be a part of SOMETHING. We were How would you explain the popularity the all very inexperienced, but we were being clumsy in a movement here had, whereas in America for special way.” instance punk was a very marginal movement? Sigtryggur played in the bands Kukl and Sugar- “Mostly because of it’s size. I mean if you fart in this corner over here they’re gonna smell cubes after Þeyr and conquered the world. it over there. It had a tremendous impact on the society. What we sang about began to be After the Sugarcubes came to an end he discussed in the newspapers and analyzed in the University.” Mike Pollock, Danny’s brother formed the crooner persona Bogomil and fellow guitarist, is still a working musician. Maggi, Bodies drummer has recently Font, which became a huge success in Iceland. He moved along with his wife to the US joined up with a newly formed Ego and has also found God and has been working with the and then Holland, but has recently returned to Iceland. His current projects include the church. Danny has dedicated his life to rock and roll and is currently running a rehearsal world music band Steintryggur and producing a Kurt Weill opera this summer. space for bands located in an old fish factory. Current profession: Musician, producer, (as Bogomil Font) crooner Current profession: Rehearsal space manager COLUMN WHERE IS THE MULTICULTURAL SOCIETY by Hassan Harazi

Experience up close the adventure of whale watching

Take part in an adventure at sea with an unforgettable trip H.S. into the world of whales and sea birds. Aboard the Elding I, you have a fantastic 360-degree panoramic view, plus a spectacular view into the deep blue sea. Located in Reykjavík´s old harbour, only a 20-minute journey can bring you up man named Hassan has been close to whales in their natural habitat. A sending us letters, his output putting Call us now most of our (barely) paid writers to shame. We like him so much we´re 555 3565 giving him a column. But we´re not or visit www.elding.is paying him. At least not yet. If G. Pomrenke travelled from because of a desire to be ‘more like raining, even a gathering outside the Daily departures from Reykjavík Virginia, USA expecting to engage other European cities’. It takes Parliament when it’s empty. And in the social and cultural activities more than a handful of ‘ethnic’ surely the police never have to worry April May June July Aug Sept Oct and expected to find them Icelandic/ restaurants, shops selling Moroccan about dragging away protestors as 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 Nordic and not African, and slippers and Tai Chi classes. Where come 7pm they all go home for 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 presumably disappointed, it would are the mosques, synagogues, dinner anyway. 17:00 17:00 17:00 be very easy just to infer that he/she halal and kosher butchers, Diwali The photograph with the article was some sort of racist/bigot/white celebrations, and the acceptance of shows a poster (a reference to the

MIXA supremacist or whatever, and dismiss these things that a true multicultural dam construction at Kárahnjúkar), • fít fít his/her opinions as such. What society has? It appears more like, which reads; “It is the duty of all • 01464 might be more useful would be to “We like your food, nice fabrics countrymen to protect the country seek to understand why he/she was and music, but not your traditions, from their government.” Following obviously under the impression customs and you”. And at the heart Birgir Örn Thoroddsen’s comment that Iceland was not a multicultural of it all, an immigration policy that in issue #3 complaining of ‘the society, if indeed it is. It may have discriminates on race. population’s inability to protest Elding Whale Watching something to do with how Iceland Reykjavík and Iceland have a lot to against anything’, and Guðbergur Reykjavík, Iceland • Tel: (+354) 555 3565 is marketed to potential tourists offer tourists - it does actually have Bergsson’s interview in The Fax: (+354) 554 7420 • [email protected] in other countries by the Icelandic a history from 1700 to the present Guardian Weekend Magazine Tourist Board and Icelandair. If day - but it seems not many people of November 29, 2003 in which tourists are sold holidays which want to make a feature of it. Could he states: “If the international promise to take them to the Land of it be because a lot of it is not very community can show them the Vikings/Sagas/Fire and Ice/most glamorous or fits in very well with [Icelanders] how truly ridiculous it beautiful women in the world who the romantic ideals that they assume is to destroy nature, the very thing all have long blonde hair/a place tourists are seeking? In my opinion they love most, for one aluminum where the language has remained the history of Iceland of the past smelter, they may start to think unchanged for centuries, then why 300 years is far more interesting and for themselves. They might finally should they not be confused when has done more to shape the modern have the guts to speak up and tell they find a black woman wearing Iceland than anything the Vikings their dictatorial government how the national costume, kids wearing did. absolutely they have got this wrong. American sportswear and rapping I found the article about You have to shame us into change.” and everyone else traipsing around protesting very interesting, but Then surely a more appropriate shopping malls while talking on surely Reykjavíkians are amongst poster would read, “It is the duty of mobile telephones? the world leaders in non-violent all non-Icelanders to protect Iceland As for Reykjavík being a civil disobedience. I was under the from the Icelanders.” multicultural city, where is it? It impression that all protests took the For any tourists that would like to seems to me that the City council form of wearing a t-shirt, for one see this part of the country, there is and a fair number of its inhabitants day only, emblazoned with a slogan now a range of postcards available. would like Reykjavík to be thought such as “Men say no to rape”, or “I of as a multicultural city simply am a feminist”. Or maybe, if it’s not Reykjavík City Shot

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Bankastræti

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The Grapevine is happy to accept submissions for the city shot. H.S. FASHION 13 Mother tongue licks t-shirts into shape by Anna Koskinen Then the slogans moved on. They on wearing the t-shirt for the whole from downright political opinions to rmed with a diction- took over t-shirts and scarves, world to know of their Las Palmas simple but accurate and matter-of- A shoes and shoestrings, bangles and experience of 1994. factly (or in some cases deceiving) ary, you can go shopping for the backpockets of jeans. The t-shirt, But now t-shirts are making a come- statements such as “ég er fullur” - I perfect little tee to say the thing which was considered underwear back. In the last year, the amount am drunk. that’s right on the tip of your until liberated by James Dean and of t-shirts with slogans in Icelandic Icelanders have always had pride in tongue. Marlon Brando, finally had some- have doubled, if not tripled. There is their language, guarded it and looked thing to say. Since those days of a huge selection for anyone willing after it by trying to avoid foreign in- First came the badges. simple coolness, the t-shirt has had to take their pick and say what they fluences and come up with their own Slapped on caps and bags, they a bit of a downfall, having become a want without actually having to utter words instead of simply borrowing made their first appearance with target for advertisements and logos. a word - simply by displaying their others’. The power is in the words, simple slogans and names of H.S. People have been there, done that, opinions on their chests, printed on in the language, as it is inheritance and bought the t-shirt, then kept their t-shirts. The messages range from the past generations, the bands, then turned into po- forefathers who first inhabited the litical opinions in the seventies country. Words contain history, and and obscenities in the eighties. now they are making their appear- Slogans were born to express the ance in t-shirts, ties and tops across unexpressable: “make love not the country. The major players of this new wave of slogan-embellished war,” “say yes to jesus,” “handle clothing are Jón Sæmundsson with with care.” You would rarely his label Dead (available at Non- tell a stranger that you are with nabúð) and the Laugavegur-based stupid, but you might very well shop Ósóma, both proudly display- ing their philosophical and more have a badge saying it for you on down-to-earth wordplay for the the lapel of your jacket. whole world to see. The trick of these clothes is that they work in many different levels, thus making them wearable for a wide range of people. Rock stars as well as teenagers wear them, and the tourists buy them for the hipness of sporting a secret slogan that nobody back home can understand. This, of course, makes it easier to wear inde- cent or shocking words on your chest without anybody actually knowing about it or being offended by it. For all those who get their kicks out of being bad without getting caught. More blatantly rock than anyone has dared to be since Guns n´ Roses, and probably sports more tattoos than all other tional stage. The Sugarcubes made it. Then, aboutadecadelater, Sigurrós. came next? Who´s THE NEXT BIG THING BIG NEXT THE Icelandic bands put together. Which probably says a lot about their music. They´re often away touring in Europe A these days, perhaps because they´ve exceeded their credit limit in Bar 11. They may or may not be working on another album. sigurjon.com Skólavörðustígur 15.Skólavörðustígur is availablein12 Tónar at bum, Trabant atBessastaðir, as opposedtothejewelrat appeal tothehandclapping, throwing smokebombs to down ofstripping and brand ess. gettheirown can Ifthey do Central Europeando Central duch The President likesthem. So got itmade. Their latestal aswell,tling classes they´ve that´s very hard tode that´s very ofmusic atype Plays soundtrack toupcoming moviesoundtrack Niceland. masterpieces.he´s working on further the Hiswrote costs.touring resides Hecurrently inÍsafjörður, where He´s anactualone manband, must which cutdown on inSpain. festival Sonar played atthe recently downwell inJapanand goesfine butapparently H.S. fter punk, Icelandicsomethingthatwastakenontheinterna musicsuddenlybecame seriously out attheendofJuly. next album, andRoll, myRock isKilling MyLife comes he neededhisdrugs.” BiginNew York, apparently. Their acoupletimes,and beatadrum thenwandered offsaying stoodup whenthedrummer of feedback, briefly interrupted minutes began:one beganwithforty review evening “The theGodDamnSkunks, asidebandcalled Have ofwhich - - - - n o s i g u m WONDERINGS parently theFrenchparently seemtoagree. lately. hisversion ismuch Hesays betterthanthe Supremes. 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I met with Birgir, Palli and Eggert of Maus the day before they opened for Placebo. by Bart Cameron Since winning a battle of Icelandic bands in 1994, Maus has been a staple of the music scene in this country. They have been so consistent for so long that they are the band that is invisible because they’re right in front of you. After 11 years of playing one of the world’s smallest countries, the band had some interesting observations.

...continued on pg. 18 THE WIT AND WISDOM OF MAUS 16 GUIDE TO THE CITY CENTER This pullout has all the information one might need, so for a safer journey, pull it out and put it in your pocket. CAFE´S 4. Café Roma the city it’s named after. it was cheaper than buying drinks all the time. Another owner is the chess players, challenging each other and anyone that might wander in RESTAURANTS FAST FOOD Laugavegur 118 In the mornings it is more quiet and a hangout for philosophers and BARS & BISTRO director of the film 101 Reykjavík, and the bar figures prominently in here for a game, as every table doubles as a chess board. One of the best Is the closest thing you’ll find to a New York deli in town. A lively artists. Offers you light meals and the opportunity to sit outside when the film. places to meet locals for a chat, every night of the week. 1. Segafredo cross-section of artists, students and office workers enjoy home baked the weather is nice. 31. Við Tjörnina 41. Nonnabiti By Lækjartorg Templarasund 3 Hafnarstræti 11 pannini and great coffee all at low prices. 11. Hverfisbar 14. Sirkus 20. Bar 11 McDonalds has departed from the centre of Reykjavík and instead Hverfisgata 20 The most novel fish restaurant in Iceland. The owner, Chef Runar The owner is a miser who charges additionally for everything, but Italian chain Segafredo has arrived, which isn’t a bad trade-off. You can 8. Tíu Dropar Klapparstígur 30 Laugavegur 11 Marvinsson, is known for innovative fish dishes made from a variety this is almost certainly the best junk food in the Greater Reykjavík Very long queues to get in, and once there, you wonder what the fuss “Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and games,” quoth the poet. The rock hangout, be it live music or the riff-heavy jukebox. Many of smoke indoors, which gives you a nice continental feel, the staff is Ital- 5. Mokka Laugavegur 27 of rare fish and shellfish and related raw materials. Mr. Marvinsson is area. The subs are great, none of that Subway commitment to healthy With the exception of Mokka, Tíu Dropar is the oldest café in was about, or whether the queue was in fact the best part. When it’s With tropical palm trees on the outside and tropical heat on the inside, Iceland’s rock bands are regulars. Bands play and/or poetry is recited ian and the prices are in Euros as well as krónur. Although Sega isn’t Skólavörðustígur 3a also a respected food and cooking personality and the author of several living, and they probably contribute significantly to the ever-increasing downtown Reykjavik. The place has a very special feel to it, the decor, four o’clock on a Sunday morning and you’re still going strong, this welcome to the party that never came to an end and doesn’t seem to be most Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, A good place to come one of the more expensive places, you wonder whether knowing how An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in Reykjavik cookbooks. His respect for his raw materials is a tribute to fish and “size” of the nation. They also serve burgers and sandwiches, and have the tables and the chairs, along with the service makes you feel very might be the place you’ll wind up, by which time you probably won’t ending any time soon. Usually full of regulars (many of whom are, were down on Sundays, with a screening of cult films. much things cost might ruin your vacation. and the first one to make coffee with an espresso machine. The walls shellfish, showing off their natural goodness without artificiality. Chef lunchtime offers. much at home. It’s almost like your sitting down for a cup of coffee in care that the same song seems to come on every half hour. or want to be students of the Icelandic Academy of Arts) mixed with are covered with art for sale and, though seats are usually filled by loyal Marvinsson is really a natural wonder and a particular favourite with your grandma’s kitchen. The menu is limited, but has the advantage of musicians and other members of the city’s underground. The upper customers, every now and then you’ll catch a glimpse of the owners, a 21. Kaffi Kúltur Icelanders! 2. Ráðhúskaffi really nice and friendly couple in their seventies who have owned the constant changes, with new items every day. 12. Café 22 floor, for whatever reason, looks like the inside of a bus. 42. Little Mama Taco´s City Hall Hverfisgötu 18 Lækjargata 8 café since its inception. Laugavegur 22 For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about town, With view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside the City 32. Tveir Fiskar One of those places that seem to be always open, and hence you find Has recently undergone a major facelift. The top floor is now dedicated Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day its some- Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the view. Free internet access 9. Café Árnes 15. Nelly’s Geirsgötu 9 yourself going to late on Saturday nights as consolation when it seems to artist Jón Sæmundur, aka Dead, whose Dead label can be seen on thing of a hangout for the actors from the National Theatre, just across for costumers and, in the lobby of City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2 6. Kaffivagninn By the harbour Þingholtsstræti 2 Seafood restaurant, although they also do land-based animals. At inevitable you´ll be going home alone. And as consolations go, it´s Once a ferry, Café Árnes has recently been turned into a coffeeshop quite a few people these days. Downstairs is a decent bistro (try the The cheapest beer in Reykjavík, with tends to attract more experienced the street, but in the evening it is populated by both new and older Ice- model of Iceland. Grandagarður 10 lunchtime you can have a three course meal for 2300, which isn’t too not bad. Rather reasonable by local standards, and they have all the by day and seafood restaurant by night. The cardeck in the basement Gringo), whereas the middle floor houses a dancefloor. Open until the drinkers as well as expats. Troubadours play on most weekdays, mostly landers. They have multi-ethnic food and frequent concerts. Wednesday By the harbor where fishermen and sailors along with bus drivers and bad, all things considered. The chef has been awarded the Medal of the tortillaish Mexican standards. now functions as a bar. Situated by the harbour (obviously), have a wee small hours, and a great place for a late night drink for those who covers though. In the weekends a younger crowd comes in, and there’s a night is tango night. Anyone can join in, but this is not a place to learn aging tough guys gather for lunch and a cup of coffee. If you want to try Order of the White Rose by the President of Finland. 3. Grái Kötturinn traditional waffle with lots of jam and cream and watch the whale want drink along with a less trendy (and perhaps more cool) crowd. Be large dancefloor on the upper floor. The prices do, however, go up after as the regulars know their way around a dancefloor. out traditional Icelandic food, pancakes, or bread with smoked lamb, warned, though, they do charge 500 krónur entrance after midnight. Hverfisgata 16a this is the right place to see another side of Reykjavík. watchers come in. midnight on weekends. 43. Bernhöftsbakarí Grái Kötturinn is across the street from the National Theater and is 22. Jón Forseti 33. Hornið Bergstaðastæti 13 very small and very popular in the early hours of the day. A good place 13. Kaffibarinn Hafnarstræti 15 A bakery with traditions going back some 150 years, although it has to start a day the British way, with eggs and bacon and other traditional 7. Café Paris 10. Bleika Dúfan 16. Vegamót Aðalstræti 10 Means “the corner” and the place lives up to its name. This is actually changed locations. Apart from a supermarket, a bakery is still the best Laugavegi 21 Bergstaðastræti 1 The oldest house in Reykjavík is now, you guessed it, a gay club. Named breakfasts on the menu. The lunch menu is also inviting, but somewhat Austurstræti 14 Vegamótastígur 4 the oldest Italian restaurant in town, celebrating its 25th year, which way to fill your belly. Try the staple of Icelandic childhood and beyond: The name means the Pink Pigeon. A bookstore that specialises in Kaffibarinn is Cool Reykjavik, or at least tries to be. Reykjavik prides Wants to be the inspot to be seen, and succeeds to some degree. Dress after founding father and national hero Jón Sigurðsson, who lived there pricey. Situated in the heart of the city with a view over Austurvöllur, spacious, says something about the scene here before then. Excellent quality a snúður roll with chocolate milk. books in English, so there are a lot of foreigners there as well as people itself on having more artists per capita than any other capital in the up, flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle in for a while, it now has various events, including concerts, plays and a popular and usually full in the afternoon, Café Paris is international like pizza, pasta and salads and yet remaining one of the more affordable who work in the surrounding area. A mostly veggie menu (apart from world, and the crowd here seem to be trying to prove the point, with there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come out on top. gay cabaret, performed on a small stage that tries its best to look big ones. Try the calzone. the ham and cheese sandwich) and internet. musicians, actors and writers ranging from the hopefuls to the world Kitchen open every day until 22. Specials of the day and weekend with curtains and everything. So how long until they change George 44. Bæjarins bestu famous. Blur’s Damon Albarn owns a share of the bar, probably figuring brunch. Try the lobster pizza. Washington’s old place into a gay bar? You heard it here first. Tryggvagata 34. Vox They claim to have the best hot dogs in town, and for once the product Nordica Hotel lives up to the hype. Ask for one with everything, and you’ll get a dog 17. Kaffibrennslan 23. Café List Perhaps a typical off-lobby restaurant, bistro, bar in a four-star hotel, in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remulade (don’t ask), fried and raw Pósthússtræti 9 Laugavegur 20a the Vox looks at first glance like a fancy cafeteria spiced up for an onion. The standard Icelandic hotdog, only somehow it tastes better. One of the largest selection of beers in Reykjavik, but it’s still one of the “List” means “art”, the art mostly consisting of jazz bands that play ���� �� official reception. But please do not let that glance throw you off! The few bars in Reykjavík where you can attempt to maintain a conversation there frequently. Looks perhaps more like a hotel bar than a seedy jazz restaurant has a modern interior with extremely un-Icelandic décor, after midnight on weekends. Good coffee and, for those on a budget, club, but the prices of beer has gone down, so they deserve our support. 45. Pizza 67 however the kitchen saves the situation. Run by a master chef, a recent �� they are generous with the refills. Tryggvagata 26 �� winner of the super gastro competition “Bocuse d’Or,” the Menu is ������������ The local pizza chain that’s trying to take on the world, and who 24. Prikið tops. Sirkus currently operate a place in the Faeroes and China, as well as all over 18. Celtic Cross Bankastræti 12 Iceland. The have a Summer of Love theme, which doesn’t really Used to be a traditional coffee house which has been around longer ������������ �� Hverfisgata 26 35. 3 Frakkar extend beyond the names of the pizzas, a few slogans and a few posters, Arguably the bar in town that comes closest to deserving the title of than any but, after a change of clientele, they now cater to a younger Flea Market Baldursgata 14 but the pizzas are nice. They also do deliveries. They have a lunchtime Irish, even though the Dubliner tries harder. Except for the coffin in the crowd. A diner during the day and a nightclub on weekends. You can � This is a restaurant that cannot be ignored. A very small place with buffet for 990, for those in search of quantity for the króna. back, it’s very much alive. Live music almost every night, a troubadour also borrow games there, such as backgammon or chess. an atmosphere. Here you may enjoy the house specialties of Icelandic � on the upper floor and a band in the basement, both doing their best to �� traditional dishes prepared in the good, old-fashioned manner, includ- make a living as human jukeboxes. 46. Eldsmiðjan �� 25. Dillon ing catfish, shark, and whale steaks. And of course much more. If you’re In the garden behind Bar Sirkus is now an Amsterdam style mini-version lucky, Chef Ulfar Eysteinsson, the owner, may be present regaling the Bragagata 38a �� Laugavegur 30 Oven-baked pizzas simply don’t get much better than this. It is slightly ����������� 19. Grand Rokk A nice place to sit and chat, good folk themed music and no dance floor clientele with wild whaling tales. Don’t forget to ask Chef Ulfar for of a street flea market open on Saturdays where anyone can sell their used �� ������������� more expensive than other pizzerias, but well worth it. A wide selection to worry about. Has interesting horse themed décor, and the balcony is dark Icelandic pumpernickel bread with pure Icelandic butter, and don’t Smiðjustígur 6 of toppings, including that sorely missed pizza delight, snails. You can stuff, clothes, LP’s, CD’s or whatever, and of course buy some themselves. �� A place true to the spirit of Rock ‘n’ Roll and bands that don’t do covers. open on the weekends. Finds a nice medium somewhere between the forget to make a reservation! � also turn the chef loose and let him decide what goes on it - you’ ll Better and lesser known Icelandic bands play there, usually no less than hipsters and the drunks. The prices are rather reasonable and you can haggle all you like. It may even �� �� rarely be disappointed. Take away, order delivery, or eat in at the cosy �� three bands a night, four nights a week. Whether they charge admission 36. Apotek restaurant upstairs. The paintings are worth a peek as well. ���������� �� work. Open Saturdays, 14:00-19:00. �� or not is up to the bands, but if they do, all proceeds do go to starving 26. Dubliner Austurstræti 16 �� �� artists. Grab a beer and rock on! During the day this is a hangout for �� Hafnarstræti 4 Formerly the central drugstore of Reykjavik, established in the late 47. Vitabar ������������ 1800s, the Apotek is now a modern restaurant with an Art Deco The city’s main Irish pub, which, as in many cities, means that it’s a Bergþórugata 21 ����������� hangout for all sorts of foreigners. At the weekends there’s also a large interior. You can still see the names of the chief managing pharmacists/ �� Actually a bar, but best known for its hamburgers. A burger with fries � �� influx of locals, often of the slightly older variety. If you like the darker owners on the wall of the bar. Today, this “drugstore” serves a different for 500 is one of the best meal deals in town, but special mention must stuff on tap, this is probably the best place to go. type of milkshake. Now look for a sizzling visual kitchen (behind a go to the Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. The �� glass wall) with a Super Menu! Apotek is an eating experience not to Viking beer always feels particularly cold and refreshing here. �� � be missed. ���������������� �� CLUBS �� �� 37. Tapas 48. First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum) ������������� Vesturgata 3b Laugavegur 20b Used to be called One Woman Restaurant, as there was always the 27. Gaukur á Stöng For those with a bit of money and time on their hands, the evening same woman working there. Has new owners and a larger staff, but the Tryggvagata 22 can hardly be better spent than at Tapas, where you can while away theme is still vegetarian, with one vegan and one wheat-free dish always Iceland’s oldest club is turning 20 this fall. During the day it’s a pool the evening having course after course of wonderful miniature dishes. on offer. The only vegetarian restaurant licensed to carry beer and wine. � pub and on weekday evenings there are live rock concerts by more Particularly recommended is the garlic-fried lobster and duck in apricot Remains on the right side of the 1000 krónur bill at lunchtime, slips mainstream bands. On weekends there is usually a lot of action with sauce. If afterwards you don’t feel like getting up right away, there’s also slightly over in the evening. cover bands playing everything from Britney to the Beatles. Without a rather large lounge to relax in, and the paintings are worth a look. � exception you’ll be charged at least 1000kr for entrance in the evenings. �� Crowd: 20+ 38. Jómfrúin 49. Pizza Pronto Lækjargata 4 Vallarstræti 4 Conveniently located by Ingólfstorg, and serves slices until late at night. 28. Nasa In this global age, it can be hard to find good smörrebröd even in A good place to have a snack in between bars, particularly if you don’t by Austurvöllur Copenhagen. Never fear: out here in the colonies you can still find first want a whole Hlölli. They also have a menu (in 9 languages, no less) of Used to be a theatre, but is now a club. Great sound system and oc- rate smörrebröd at Jómfrúin. They even import their own eel directly three sizes of pizzas with a good selection of toppings. Nice, but seems �� casional live bands. The towns biggest club, but the high prices do limit from Denmark to make one of Scandinavia’s delicacies. �� the crowd somewhat. Admission 1000 krónur. a bit pricey for the surroundings. �� 39. Rossopomodoro 50. Reykjavík Bagel Company �� 29. Mojito bar Laugavegur 40a ������������ Austurstræti 16 This is a new chain of eateries trying to move away from the American Laugavegur 81 Situated a bit from the immediate centre but close to Hlemmur bus- Situated on the 5th floor, and is only accessible by elevator. A place image of pizza joints. Originally a local Napoli venture, now a string of �� stop. Bagels, wraps and coffee that might make you feel better in the �� ����������� ������������� where you can run into MP´s and business tycoons living it up. That modestly cool restaurants striving to make it in Northern Europe. Ice- morning than the more hardcore fast foods farther down the street. ����������� might be some indication of the price range. The candleholders, for land is one of the first places for Rossopomodoro outside Italy. A clever some inexplicable reason, are Turkish hashpipes. It´s only open Fridays beginning in a country absolutely free from Neopolitan traditions. A and Saturdays between 11 and 3. �������������������������� modest wine list with good prices � ���������� �� 30. Leikhúskjallarinn 40. Tjarnarbakkinn Hverfisgata 19 Vonarstræti 3 �� Recently opened again and is gaining respect, It’s a Restaurant during Above the Iðnó theatre, so it´s a good place to go before shows, or dur- �� the day but a dance place during night (weekends of course). The crowd ing if you prefer a more quiet atmosphere. If you sit by the window you here is usually little more mature then in the other clubs. Talented DJs get a nice view of the pond. It´s not a bad place to try one of Iceland´s ����������� �� play with the drunken crowd. �� culinary specialities, the lamb steak, one of those rare traditional treats ��������������� Crowd: 25+ that does not come as a shock to the uninitiated. ��������������� ������������ �� �� ��������� �� �� � ������������ 17

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Useful for emergencies Emergency phone 112 fire, police, ambulance Emergency Ward, City Hospital 24hrs. 525-1000 CAFE´S 4. Café Roma the city it’s named after. it was cheaper than buying drinks all the time. Another owner is the chess players, challenging each other and anyone that might wander in RESTAURANTS FAST FOOD Doctor: 1770 Laugavegur 118 In the mornings it is more quiet and a hangout for philosophers and BARS & BISTRO director of the film 101 Reykjavík, and the bar figures prominently in here for a game, as every table doubles as a chess board. One of the best Dentist: 575-0505 Is the closest thing you’ll find to a New York deli in town. A lively artists. Offers you light meals and the opportunity to sit outside when the film. places to meet locals for a chat, every night of the week. Directory information 118 1. Segafredo cross-section of artists, students and office workers enjoy home baked the weather is nice. 31. Við Tjörnina 41. Nonnabiti Pharmacies find your closest or call 118 By Lækjartorg Templarasund 3 Hafnarstræti 11 pannini and great coffee all at low prices. 11. Hverfisbar 14. Sirkus 20. Bar 11 McDonalds has departed from the centre of Reykjavík and instead The most novel fish restaurant in Iceland. The owner, Chef Runar The owner is a miser who charges additionally for everything, but Internet Café’s 8. Tíu Dropar Hverfisgata 20 Klapparstígur 30 Laugavegur 11 Italian chain Segafredo has arrived, which isn’t a bad trade-off. You can Marvinsson, is known for innovative fish dishes made from a variety this is almost certainly the best junk food in the Greater Reykjavík Ráðhúskaffi, City Hall, 101 Rvk. 563-2169 Laugavegur 27 Very long queues to get in, and once there, you wonder what the fuss “Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and games,” quoth the poet. The rock hangout, be it live music or the riff-heavy jukebox. Many of smoke indoors, which gives you a nice continental feel, the staff is Ital- 5. Mokka of rare fish and shellfish and related raw materials. Mr. Marvinsson is area. The subs are great, none of that Subway commitment to healthy BSI, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, 101 Rvk. 591-1000 With the exception of Mokka, Tíu Dropar is the oldest café in was about, or whether the queue was in fact the best part. When it’s With tropical palm trees on the outside and tropical heat on the inside, Iceland’s rock bands are regulars. Bands play and/or poetry is recited ian and the prices are in Euros as well as krónur. Although Sega isn’t Skólavörðustígur 3a also a respected food and cooking personality and the author of several living, and they probably contribute significantly to the ever-increasing Netkaffi, Kringlan mall, 103 Rvk. 533-2424 downtown Reykjavik. The place has a very special feel to it, the decor, four o’clock on a Sunday morning and you’re still going strong, this welcome to the party that never came to an end and doesn’t seem to be most Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, A good place to come one of the more expensive places, you wonder whether knowing how An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in Reykjavik cookbooks. His respect for his raw materials is a tribute to fish and “size” of the nation. They also serve burgers and sandwiches, and have Reykjavík Travel Service, Lækjargata 2, 101 Rvk. 511-2442 the tables and the chairs, along with the service makes you feel very might be the place you’ll wind up, by which time you probably won’t ending any time soon. Usually full of regulars (many of whom are, were down on Sundays, with a screening of cult films. much things cost might ruin your vacation. and the first one to make coffee with an espresso machine. The walls shellfish, showing off their natural goodness without artificiality. Chef lunchtime offers. much at home. It’s almost like your sitting down for a cup of coffee in care that the same song seems to come on every half hour. or want to be students of the Icelandic Academy of Arts) mixed with Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 4, 101 Rvk. 562-7776 are covered with art for sale and, though seats are usually filled by loyal Marvinsson is really a natural wonder and a particular favourite with your grandma’s kitchen. The menu is limited, but has the advantage of musicians and other members of the city’s underground. The upper customers, every now and then you’ll catch a glimpse of the owners, a 21. Kaffi Kúltur Icelanders! Useful Websites 2. Ráðhúskaffi constant changes, with new items every day. floor, for whatever reason, looks like the inside of a bus. 42. Little Mama Taco´s really nice and friendly couple in their seventies who have owned the 12. Café 22 www.icetourist.is City Hall Hverfisgötu 18 Lækjargata 8 café since its inception. Laugavegur 22 For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about town, www.visitreykjavik.is With view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside the City 32. Tveir Fiskar One of those places that seem to be always open, and hence you find Has recently undergone a major facelift. The top floor is now dedicated Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day its some- www.grapevine.is Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the view. Free internet access 9. Café Árnes 15. Nelly’s Geirsgötu 9 yourself going to late on Saturday nights as consolation when it seems to artist Jón Sæmundur, aka Dead, whose Dead label can be seen on thing of a hangout for the actors from the National Theatre, just across for costumers and, in the lobby of City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2 6. Kaffivagninn By the harbour Þingholtsstræti 2 Seafood restaurant, although they also do land-based animals. At inevitable you´ll be going home alone. And as consolations go, it´s Once a ferry, Café Árnes has recently been turned into a coffeeshop quite a few people these days. Downstairs is a decent bistro (try the The cheapest beer in Reykjavík, with tends to attract more experienced the street, but in the evening it is populated by both new and older Ice- Car rentals model of Iceland. Grandagarður 10 lunchtime you can have a three course meal for 2300, which isn’t too not bad. Rather reasonable by local standards, and they have all the by day and seafood restaurant by night. The cardeck in the basement Gringo), whereas the middle floor houses a dancefloor. Open until the drinkers as well as expats. Troubadours play on most weekdays, mostly landers. They have multi-ethnic food and frequent concerts. Wednesday ALP 562-6060 By the harbor where fishermen and sailors along with bus drivers and bad, all things considered. The chef has been awarded the Medal of the tortillaish Mexican standards. now functions as a bar. Situated by the harbour (obviously), have a wee small hours, and a great place for a late night drink for those who covers though. In the weekends a younger crowd comes in, and there’s a night is tango night. Anyone can join in, but this is not a place to learn Avis 591-4000 aging tough guys gather for lunch and a cup of coffee. If you want to try Order of the White Rose by the President of Finland. 3. Grái Kötturinn traditional waffle with lots of jam and cream and watch the whale want drink along with a less trendy (and perhaps more cool) crowd. Be large dancefloor on the upper floor. The prices do, however, go up after as the regulars know their way around a dancefloor. Berg car rental 577-6050 out traditional Icelandic food, pancakes, or bread with smoked lamb, warned, though, they do charge 500 krónur entrance after midnight. Budget 567-8300 Hverfisgata 16a this is the right place to see another side of Reykjavík. watchers come in. midnight on weekends. 43. Bernhöftsbakarí Grái Kötturinn is across the street from the National Theater and is 22. Jón Forseti 33. Hornið Bergstaðastæti 13 Europcar 591-4050 very small and very popular in the early hours of the day. A good place 13. Kaffibarinn Hafnarstræti 15 A bakery with traditions going back some 150 years, although it has SBK car rental 420-6000 to start a day the British way, with eggs and bacon and other traditional 7. Café Paris 10. Bleika Dúfan 16. Vegamót Aðalstræti 10 Means “the corner” and the place lives up to its name. This is actually changed locations. Apart from a supermarket, a bakery is still the best Laugavegi 21 Bergstaðastræti 1 The oldest house in Reykjavík is now, you guessed it, a gay club. Named breakfasts on the menu. The lunch menu is also inviting, but somewhat Austurstræti 14 Vegamótastígur 4 the oldest Italian restaurant in town, celebrating its 25th year, which way to fill your belly. Try the staple of Icelandic childhood and beyond: Other useful numbers The name means the Pink Pigeon. A bookstore that specialises in Kaffibarinn is Cool Reykjavik, or at least tries to be. Reykjavik prides Wants to be the inspot to be seen, and succeeds to some degree. Dress after founding father and national hero Jón Sigurðsson, who lived there pricey. Situated in the heart of the city with a view over Austurvöllur, spacious, says something about the scene here before then. Excellent quality a snúður roll with chocolate milk. City bus info, 551-2700 books in English, so there are a lot of foreigners there as well as people itself on having more artists per capita than any other capital in the up, flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle in for a while, it now has various events, including concerts, plays and a popular and usually full in the afternoon, Café Paris is international like pizza, pasta and salads and yet remaining one of the more affordable BSÍ bus info, 591-1000 who work in the surrounding area. A mostly veggie menu (apart from world, and the crowd here seem to be trying to prove the point, with there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come out on top. gay cabaret, performed on a small stage that tries its best to look big ones. Try the calzone. the ham and cheese sandwich) and internet. musicians, actors and writers ranging from the hopefuls to the world Kitchen open every day until 22. Specials of the day and weekend with curtains and everything. So how long until they change George 44. Bæjarins bestu Post offices famous. Blur’s Damon Albarn owns a share of the bar, probably figuring brunch. Try the lobster pizza. Washington’s old place into a gay bar? You heard it here first. Tryggvagata Central Post office, Pósthússtræti 5, 101 Rvk. 580-1000. 34. Vox They claim to have the best hot dogs in town, and for once the product Post offices are easily found around Iceland Nordica Hotel lives up to the hype. Ask for one with everything, and you’ll get a dog 17. Kaffibrennslan 23. Café List Perhaps a typical off-lobby restaurant, bistro, bar in a four-star hotel, in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remulade (don’t ask), fried and raw Laundry Services Pósthússtræti 9 Laugavegur 20a the Vox looks at first glance like a fancy cafeteria spiced up for an onion. The standard Icelandic hotdog, only somehow it tastes better. Emla laundry, Barónsstígur 3, 101 Rvk, 552-4799 One of the largest selection of beers in Reykjavik, but it’s still one of the “List” means “art”, the art mostly consisting of jazz bands that play official reception. But please do not let that glance throw you off! The A Smith laundry, Bergstaðastræti 52, 101 Rvk, 551-7140 few bars in Reykjavík where you can attempt to maintain a conversation there frequently. Looks perhaps more like a hotel bar than a seedy jazz restaurant has a modern interior with extremely un-Icelandic décor, after midnight on weekends. Good coffee and, for those on a budget, club, but the prices of beer has gone down, so they deserve our support. 45. Pizza 67 however the kitchen saves the situation. Run by a master chef, a recent Taxi services they are generous with the refills. winner of the super gastro competition “Bocuse d’Or,” the Menu is Tryggvagata 26 Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir 588-5522 The local pizza chain that’s trying to take on the world, and who tops. Borgarbílastöðin 552-2440 24. Prikið currently operate a place in the Faeroes and China, as well as all over BSR 561-0000 18. Celtic Cross Bankastræti 12 Iceland. The have a Summer of Love theme, which doesn’t really Used to be a traditional coffee house which has been around longer Hverfisgata 26 35. 3 Frakkar extend beyond the names of the pizzas, a few slogans and a few posters, Rent a bike Arguably the bar in town that comes closest to deserving the title of than any but, after a change of clientele, they now cater to a younger Baldursgata 14 but the pizzas are nice. They also do deliveries. They have a lunchtime Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, 101 Rvk 551-5653 Irish, even though the Dubliner tries harder. Except for the coffin in the crowd. A diner during the day and a nightclub on weekends. You can This is a restaurant that cannot be ignored. A very small place with buffet for 990, for those in search of quantity for the króna. Reykjavík travel service, Lækjargata 2, 101 Rvk, 511-2442 back, it’s very much alive. Live music almost every night, a troubadour also borrow games there, such as backgammon or chess. an atmosphere. Here you may enjoy the house specialties of Icelandic Reykjavík Youth Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, 105. Rvk. on the upper floor and a band in the basement, both doing their best to traditional dishes prepared in the good, old-fashioned manner, includ- 533-8110 make a living as human jukeboxes. 46. Eldsmiðjan 25. Dillon ing catfish, shark, and whale steaks. And of course much more. If you’re lucky, Chef Ulfar Eysteinsson, the owner, may be present regaling the Bragagata 38a Laugavegur 30 Oven-baked pizzas simply don’t get much better than this. It is slightly A nice place to sit and chat, good folk themed music and no dance floor clientele with wild whaling tales. Don’t forget to ask Chef Ulfar for 19. Grand Rokk more expensive than other pizzerias, but well worth it. A wide selection to worry about. Has interesting horse themed décor, and the balcony is dark Icelandic pumpernickel bread with pure Icelandic butter, and don’t Smiðjustígur 6 of toppings, including that sorely missed pizza delight, snails. You can A place true to the spirit of Rock ‘n’ Roll and bands that don’t do covers. open on the weekends. Finds a nice medium somewhere between the forget to make a reservation! also turn the chef loose and let him decide what goes on it - you’ ll Better and lesser known Icelandic bands play there, usually no less than hipsters and the drunks. rarely be disappointed. Take away, order delivery, or eat in at the cosy three bands a night, four nights a week. Whether they charge admission 36. Apotek restaurant upstairs. The paintings are worth a peek as well. or not is up to the bands, but if they do, all proceeds do go to starving 26. Dubliner Austurstræti 16 artists. Grab a beer and rock on! During the day this is a hangout for Hafnarstræti 4 Formerly the central drugstore of Reykjavik, established in the late 47. Vitabar 1800s, the Apotek is now a modern restaurant with an Art Deco The city’s main Irish pub, which, as in many cities, means that it’s a Bergþórugata 21 hangout for all sorts of foreigners. At the weekends there’s also a large interior. You can still see the names of the chief managing pharmacists/ Actually a bar, but best known for its hamburgers. A burger with fries influx of locals, often of the slightly older variety. If you like the darker owners on the wall of the bar. Today, this “drugstore” serves a different for 500 is one of the best meal deals in town, but special mention must stuff on tap, this is probably the best place to go. type of milkshake. Now look for a sizzling visual kitchen (behind a go to the Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. The glass wall) with a Super Menu! Apotek is an eating experience not to Viking beer always feels particularly cold and refreshing here. be missed. CLUBS 37. Tapas 48. First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum) Vesturgata 3b Laugavegur 20b Used to be called One Woman Restaurant, as there was always the 27. Gaukur á Stöng For those with a bit of money and time on their hands, the evening same woman working there. Has new owners and a larger staff, but the Tryggvagata 22 can hardly be better spent than at Tapas, where you can while away theme is still vegetarian, with one vegan and one wheat-free dish always Iceland’s oldest club is turning 20 this fall. During the day it’s a pool the evening having course after course of wonderful miniature dishes. on offer. The only vegetarian restaurant licensed to carry beer and wine. � pub and on weekday evenings there are live rock concerts by more Particularly recommended is the garlic-fried lobster and duck in apricot Remains on the right side of the 1000 krónur bill at lunchtime, slips mainstream bands. On weekends there is usually a lot of action with sauce. If afterwards you don’t feel like getting up right away, there’s also slightly over in the evening. cover bands playing everything from Britney to the Beatles. Without a rather large lounge to relax in, and the paintings are worth a look. � exception you’ll be charged at least 1000kr for entrance in the evenings. �� Crowd: 20+ 38. Jómfrúin 49. Pizza Pronto Lækjargata 4 Vallarstræti 4 Conveniently located by Ingólfstorg, and serves slices until late at night. 28. Nasa In this global age, it can be hard to find good smörrebröd even in A good place to have a snack in between bars, particularly if you don’t by Austurvöllur Copenhagen. Never fear: out here in the colonies you can still find first want a whole Hlölli. They also have a menu (in 9 languages, no less) of Used to be a theatre, but is now a club. Great sound system and oc- rate smörrebröd at Jómfrúin. They even import their own eel directly three sizes of pizzas with a good selection of toppings. Nice, but seems �� casional live bands. The towns biggest club, but the high prices do limit from Denmark to make one of Scandinavia’s delicacies. �� the crowd somewhat. Admission 1000 krónur. a bit pricey for the surroundings. �� 39. Rossopomodoro 50. Reykjavík Bagel Company �� 29. Mojito bar Laugavegur 40a ������������ Austurstræti 16 This is a new chain of eateries trying to move away from the American Laugavegur 81 Situated a bit from the immediate centre but close to Hlemmur bus- Situated on the 5th floor, and is only accessible by elevator. A place image of pizza joints. Originally a local Napoli venture, now a string of �� stop. Bagels, wraps and coffee that might make you feel better in the �� ����������� ������������� where you can run into MP´s and business tycoons living it up. That modestly cool restaurants striving to make it in Northern Europe. Ice- morning than the more hardcore fast foods farther down the street. ����������� might be some indication of the price range. The candleholders, for land is one of the first places for Rossopomodoro outside Italy. A clever some inexplicable reason, are Turkish hashpipes. It´s only open Fridays beginning in a country absolutely free from Neopolitan traditions. A and Saturdays between 11 and 3. �������������������������� modest wine list with good prices � ���������� �� 30. Leikhúskjallarinn 40. Tjarnarbakkinn Hverfisgata 19 Vonarstræti 3 �� Recently opened again and is gaining respect, It’s a Restaurant during Above the Iðnó theatre, so it´s a good place to go before shows, or dur- �� the day but a dance place during night (weekends of course). The crowd ing if you prefer a more quiet atmosphere. If you sit by the window you here is usually little more mature then in the other clubs. Talented DJs get a nice view of the pond. It´s not a bad place to try one of Iceland´s ����������� �� play with the drunken crowd. �� culinary specialities, the lamb steak, one of those rare traditional treats GREAT SELECTION OF THE ��������������� Crowd: 25+ that does not come as a shock to the uninitiated. BEST ICELANDIC MUSIC ��������������� INDIE / POP / CLASSICAL / JAZZ / ELECTRO / FOLK ������������ �� �� Please visit and enjoy good music and free espresso coffee ��������� �� or tea. �� And we offer Tax Free Shopping! Skólavörðustígur 15 � Phone: 511-5656 ������������ THEY DON’T GIVE CHANGE Reykjavík has no trams, trains or subways, only buses. These yellow things can take you pretty much anywhere in Reykjavík’s suburb areas. It’s a slow system and you might have to change buses a couple of times to get where you want to though usually things run smoothly, and on time. The price of a single fare is 220kr, for an adult, (60kr for children under 12). If you are in town for more than a few days then the 9 ticket package for 1500kr would be a better bet. Bus cards valid for two weeks a month or three months are also available. You have to pay as you step on board and it has to be the accurate amount, unless you want to pay more for your ride. The driver can not change your money. For those of you used to the honesty system, this system is as honest, because if you don’t pay, you don’t ride. You can ask the driver for a free time-limited exchange ticket, if you need two buses to complete your journey.

The bus system is closed during the night, you can catch your first bus between 6:40 and 7:00 in the morning, and last call is around 24:00. The main bus stops in Reykjavik are Hlemmur and Lækjartorg, there you’ll be able to get all the information you need.

Don’t Nordica Hotel compromise Sudurlandsbraut 2 We don’t 108 Reykjavik, Iceland � � � � � Tel: (+354) 444-5050 Fax: (+354) 444-5001 “...the meals were simply [email protected] the best I have enjoyed in an www.vox.is Icelandic restaurant this year."

Food and wine critic – Morgunblaðið Daily Newspaper September 7th 2003 RESTAURANT 18

ADDRESS BOOK ON FREE BEER (Band all joins in to say how easy it Grapevine: Are you discussing spe- would have been to contact them.) cial riders. Need like special M&Ms Eggert: We’re going to stay in New Museums Cafés for your show tomorrow? York for a week with our girlfriends, ASÍ. Art Museum, Freyjugata 41, 511-5353 Bleika Dúfan, Laugavegur 21, p: 517-1980 Árbæjarsafn Folk Museum, Kistuhylur 4, p: 557-1111 Café Árnes, by the harbour, p: 551-5101 Palli: Nobody asks Icelandic bands if though. Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, Sigtún, p: 553-2155 Café Paris, Austurstræti 14, p: 551-1020 they want anything… Maybe Nylon. Birgir: Ugh. Girlfriends. Culture House, Hverfisgata 15, p: 545-1400 Café Roma, Laugavegi 118, p: 562-0020 They got separate dressing rooms for Einar Jónsson, Sculpture museum, Einarsgata, p: 551-3797 Grái Kötturinn, Hverfisgata 16a, p: 551-1544 their June 17th show. But usually, ON PLAYING IN THE SAME Gerðarsafn, Kóparvogur Art Gallery, Hamraborg 4, p:551-3797 Kaffivagninn, Grandagarður 10, p: 551-5932 Hafnarborg Art Gallery, Srandgata 34 Hafnarfj, 555-0080 Mokka, Skólavörðustígur 3a, p: 552-1174 Icelandic bands don’t get anything. BAND FOR 11 YEARS Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art museum, Tryggvagata 17, p: 590-1200 Ráðhúskaffi, City Hall, p: 563-2169 We do put celebrities on our guest GV: Why aren’t you more jaded Icelandic Institute of Natural History, Hlemmur 5, p:590-0500 Segafredo by Lækjartorg, p: list though. after 11 years? Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, Flókagata, p: 517-1290 Tíu Dropar, Laugavegur 27, p: 551-9380 Eggert: This is Iceland, you never Birgir: We started young. We Museum of Medical History, Neströð 170, p: 561-1016 Café, Bar and Bistro National Gallery of Iceland, Fríkirkjuvegur 7, p: 515-9600 know. thought of this like a club. It’s still Ari í Ögri, Ingólfsstræti 3, p: 551-9660 Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, p: 551-7030 Bar 11, Laugavegur 11, p: 511-1180 Palli: Michael Douglas. like that. Sometimes we talk for 40 Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15, p: 563-1750 Café 22, Laugavegur 22, p: 511-5522 Eggert: The father. You know the minutes and play for 20. Reykjavík Elestrivity Museum, Rafstöðvarvegur, p: 567-9009 Café List, Laugavegur 20a, p: 511-1420 Reykjavík Museum of Photography, Tryggvagata 15, p: 563-1790 father. Palli: We just get along. Café Victor, Hafnarstræti 1-3, p: 561-9555 Reykjavík Zoo & Family Park, Engjavegur, p: 575-7800 Celtic Cross, Hverfisgata 26, p: 511-3240 Palli: Yeah, Tony Danza. We always Birgir: I haven’t slept with any of Saga Museum, Perlan Öskjuhlíð, p: 511-1517 De Palace, Hafnarstræti 18, p: 551-6780 put him down first. their girlfriends yet. Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, Lauganestangi 70, p: 553-2906 Dillon, Laugavegur 20, 511-2400 (Birgir finishes his phone call and Palli: And we haven’t slept with any Galleries Dubliner, Hafnarstræti 4, 511-3233 sits down.) of his ex-girlfriends. 101 Gallery, Hverfisgata 18a Glaumbar, Tryggvagata 20, p: 552-6868 Gallery Kling og Bang, Laugavegi 23, p: 822-0402 Grand Rokk, Smiðjustígur 6, p: 551-5522 Gallery Fold, Rauðarárstígur 14-16, p: 551-0400 Hressingarskálinn, Austurstræti 20, p: 561-2240 Gallery Hnoss, Skólavörðustígur 16, p: 561-8485 Hverfisbar, Hverfisgata 20, p: 511-6700 Gallery i8, Klapparstígur 33, p: 551-3666 Jón Forseti, Aðalstræti 10, p: 551-0962 Gallery Meistari Jakob, Skólavörðustígur 5, p: 552-7161 Kaffi Kúltur, Hverfisgötu 18, p: 530-9314 Gallery Skuggi, Hverfistaga 39, p: 511-1139 Kaffibarinn, Bergstaðastræti 1, p: 551-1588 Gallery Tukt, Pósthússtræti 3-5, p: 520-4600 Kaffibrennslan, Pósthússtræti 9, p: 561-3600 Handverk og Hönnun, Aðalstræti 12, p: 551-7595 Nelly’s, Þingholtsstræti 2, p: 551-2477 Safn, Laugavegur 37, p: 561-8777 Prikið, Bankastræti 12, p: 551-3366 The Icelandic Printmakers Association, Tryggvagata 17, p: 588-7576 Sirkus, Klapparstígur 30 Other Sólon, Bankastræti 7a, p: 562-3232 Thorvaldsen bar, Austurstræti 8, p: 511-1413 Hallgrímskirkja church, Skólavörðuholti, p: 510-1000 Vegamót, Vegamótastígur 4, p: 511-3040 Klink og Bank, Brautarholt, p: 822-0402 Perlan, Öskjuhlíð Clubs Kringlan shopping mall, Kringlan 8-12, p: 568-9200 Gaukur á Stöng, Tryggvagata 22, p: 551-1556 Volcano show: Red rock cinema, Hellusund 6a, p: 845-9548 Kapital, Hafnarstræti 17, p: 511-7007 Salurinn Concert Hall, Hamraborg 6, p: 570-0400 Leikhúskjallarinn, Hverfisgata 19, p: 551-6010 Theaters Mojito, Austurstræti 16, p: 575-7905 Nasa, by Austurvöllur, p: 511-1313 Light nights, Iðnó Theater, p: 551-9181 Pravda, Austurstræti 22, p: 552-9222 Restaurants Fastfood H.S. Apótekið, Austurstræti 16, p: 575-7900 Bæjarins bestu, Tryggvagata, p: 894-4515 3 Frakkar, Baldursgata 14, p: 552-3939 Bernhöftsbakarí, Bergstaðastæti 13, p: 551-3083 Hornið, Hafnarstræti 15, p: 551-3340 Birgir: Once we asked for 5 cases ON DEALING WITH THE Eldsmiðjan, Bragagata 38a, p: 562-3838 Jómfrúin, Lækjargata 4, p: 551-0100 of beer. And a few sandwiches. In FOREIGN PRESS First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum), Laugavegur 20b, p: 552-8410 Rossopomodoro, Laugavegur 40a, p: 561-0500 Nonnabiti, Hafnarstræti 11, p: 551-2312 Denmark. GV: This woman tracked you down Tapas, Vesturgata 3b, p: 551-2344 Pizza 67, Tryggvagata 26, p: 561-9900 Palli: Never in Iceland. for the Central Park show. Is it Tjarnarbakkinn, Vonarstræti 2, p: 562-9700 Pizza Pronto, Vallarstræti 4, p: 517-5445 Tveir Fiskar, Geirsgata 9, p: 511-3474 Birgir: You never get free beer here. nice having foreign fans who are so Reykjavík Bagel Company, Laugavegur 81, p: 511-4500 Við Tjörnina, Templarasund 3, p: 551-8666 Palli: Not unless you have a foreign interested? Vitabar, Bergþórugata 21, p: 551-7200 Vox Nordica Hotel, Suðurlandsbraut 2, p: 444-5050 band. Eggert: (Eyes wide open like a child Birgir: We’ll have to import small in a Christmas card.) Doing this for foreign bands from now on. eleven years, we don’t think we’re going to be huge if someone from a ON ICELANDIC CROWDS foreign country thinks we’re good. Grapevine: You don’t seem to live (He looks at me a few seconds.) Shit a rock n’ roll lifestyle. You all look shit shit. (Launches into Icelandic, young and healthy. asking band mates to explain the Birgir: We used to be a party band. same idea he just expressed well in Palli and Eggert: No. Not at all. English.) Birgir: Well, we like to party, we just Birgir: Normally, the foreign press do it the right way. We party in the isn’t interested in us. We’re an estab- right way the way we put an album lished band. People forget to men- out the right way. tion us. It’s only if they hear us on a GV: How is it, then, playing shows cd or something—then we end up where everyone else is drunk? Last with people writing about us who are time I saw you play, at Grand Rokk, fans. We’ve never had hype. We’ve I was sure there was going to be a never had a spotlight on us. brawl. Birgir: No. It’s fine. No, I don’t ON 11 YEARS AS A POPULAR think we’ve ever been afraid of a ICELANDIC ROCK BAND crowd. Birgir: We sell albums like a main- Palli: There was that one time. stream pop band, but we get airplay Birgir: But we weren’t afraid. We with the rock bands. We probably made fun of him from the stage. sell more than the pop bands. Palli: Yeah, but… Palli: It’s brilliant playing around the Birgir: Well, then we ran like hell. country. But we made fun of him. Eggert: We get to play our own Palli: We had to stop a gig once songs for one and a half hours and because we had security, but the guys hear people singing along. up front were bigger and started Palli: Some Icelandic bands want beating up our security. Then our to go straight from Iceland to New drummer jumped into the crowd and York. WE ARE ON A MISSION started hitting him. But I talked to Birgir: But that’s impossible. the guy who got hit, and he said it GV: How many shows have you FROM GOD was fine. played in Iceland, do you think? L Birgir: That guy was pushing the mic Eggert: Exactly 270, I think. IVE MUSIC constantly into my teeth. Birgir: It helps that we’re self-suf- GV: And your response? ficient. UPCOMING Birgir: Nothing, I’m a pacifist. GV: What does that mean? EVENTS ON BIG SHOWS Eggert: We don’t have an agent or Grapevine: What are your next big anything. Friday July 9th shows? GV: Isn’t that why it took the Radiostation X BBQ night: Bands Birgir: We have a big show in woman from New York City a whole playing tonight are; Maus, Hudson Seyðisfjörður coming up. Two shows month to track you down? Wayne and Manhattan there. And then we’re playing New All of Maus: Yeah. Saturday July 10th York. Birgir: Fuck. We’ve wasted 11 years. Band Vax Grapevine: Where in New York? Palli: Hey, sorry we didn’t have the Birgir: Central Park. At Summer- drummer here. Friday July 16th stage in Central Park. Eggert: Yeah, he usually says the The Keflavik Invasion; Bands playing GV: Well, that’s important, right? funny things. tonight are; Æla, Tokyo Megaplex & the Birgir: (Shrugs.) Yeah, we got a great Heiða & Heiðingjarnir YOU WILL NEVER phone call. This woman said she Maus will headline a show at Grand Thursday July 22nd wanted us to play Central Park. She Rokk on Friday, July 9, and they will Band Tube 551 5522 said she had been trying to get in perform two shows the next week in p: DRINK ALONE Smiðjustíg 6. contact with us for a month. Seyðisfjörður. For more info, check Palli: I mean we have a website. their website. 19

AROUND THE WORLD IN 90 MINUTES by Valur Gunnarsson

NOT ON THE TV It´s hard to dislike Jackie Chan. His films are as harmless as you can get. It´s almost a relief these days to see movie violence where no one gets hurt and everyone gets up again, having learnt their lesson. Give football to God But it´s also hard to really like Jackie Chan. They all seem the same, by Robert Jackson no matter who he´s being paired with or what time period he´s be- The other day I sat down to watch the news. We were ing set in. Here, in place of Owen Wilson or Chris Tucker is Steve in the middle of the presidential elections and I wanted to hear from the pundits how they viewed the election Coogan. “Who?” may be the first thought that comes to mind, but and what they saw as the likely outcome. So I sat down you may have seen him in 24 Hour Party People. at 7:00pm only to find that Iceland´s favourite news- Here he plays globe trotter and Turkish sultan, and is probably the reader had been usurped by 22 men, a ball and a referee. Divine intervention is certainly at play here. How a betting man Phileas Fogg. There´s last person you would expect in country that has limited analog frequencies can devote something very romantic about such a role. Apparently he tried to Here we were in the middle of a presidential elec- 24 hours a day, 365 days a year to a religious network is the 19th Century, when there were have himself cut from the film after tion campaign, a time when the issues relating to the a mystery of biblical proportions and one that is worthy still places left to be discovered, entering politics. If he had succeeded constitution, media laws and the prospect of a referen- of review. and of course, in due course this would have been a worse film, dum are all running to a very public conclusion. At this RÚV has a mandate to entertain as well as inform, and colonised, although the hangover but you now wonder whether crucial time, when campaigning is at its most vigorous doubtless the decision to broadcast the football was of colonisation may be somewhat this may have been his last screen and when in other countries news coverage would be made in response to that duty. But is it not possible less romantic. The highlights of the performance. The Wilson brothers extended, here it is given up for a football tournament to put it on another channel? Is it too much to ask the film are the CGI travels between are great as the Wright brothers, - a tournament where the nation isn’t even represented. good people at Omega to risk the wrath of God and countries, when you get an overview Owen Wilson currently being a move aside when events, such as presidential elections of the next port of call. Cecile de contender for funniest man alive. “It must be on another channel” I told myself, as I and football matches, coincide? France shines as the love interest Despite all this, the movie seems to surfed in vain to find Bogi and crew grapple with the and we´ll probably be seeing more drag on. You wish they would have candidates. Everyone would win. The news and current affairs of her. The cameo´s range from the gone for a more straightforward programmes could run at their usual times, football fans very brief, such as Richard Branson rendition of the story, and left out all What I did find was Omega; the ‘round-the-clock bible would be able to watch all of their games, and Omega and John Cleese, to the downright the mock fights. This is one Jackie channel, sitting there ‘fat, dumb and happy’ broadcasting would receive more viewers, as some would forget to bizarre. The governor of California Chan movie that may have been to a handful of viewers, using up one of the country’s change channels at the end of the broadcast and, who appears as a Rodin collecting better off without him. most valuable resources: a television frequency. knows, some may even want to tune in again? Screenings start rougly every two hours, at 18, 20 and 22. However, with films getting ever longer starting times may vary. There are usually ads and trailers for roughly 15 minutes from announced MOVIES : LISTINGS : july 9 - july 22 starting time. Almost all films have a short interval in the middle.

Hverfisgata 54 Laugarás Álfabakka 8 Smáralind Kringlan 4-6 Phone: 551-9000 Phone: 553-2075 Phone: 587-8900 Phone: 564-0000 Phone: 588-0800 www.regnboginn.is www.laugarasbio.is www.sambio.is www.smarabio.is www.sambio.is

PREMIERS: PREMIERS: PREMIERS: PREMIERS: PREMIERS: 9. july Spider-Man 2 9. july Spiderman 2 9. july Raising Helen 9. july Spiderman 2 16. july Raising Helen 16. july My Babys Daddy 16. july Shrek 2 16. july Shrek 2 16. july My Babys Daddy 16. july Shrek 2

Still running: Still running: Still running: Still running: Still running: The Chronicles of Riddick The Chronicles of Riddick Walking Tall Godsend Walking Tall Raising Helen Suddenly 30 Around the World in 80 Days Suddenly 30 Around the World in 80 Days Mean Girls Day after Tomorrow Day after Tomorrow Harry Potter 3 Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Conf. of a Teenage Drama Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Eurotrip, Queen Mind, The Punisher Mind Troy The Punisher Chasing Liberty

Look no further for: Comic books Graphic Novels Hagatorg Phone: 530-1919 Manga/Anime www.haskolabio.is Action Figures Sci-Fi/Fantasy paperbacks PREMIERS: Collectible Card Games 16. july Shrek 2 Warhammer Still running: Role-Playing Games The Chronicles of Riddick and more... Around the World in 80 Days NEXUS Devine Intervention Hverfisgata 103 (near bus station Hlemmur) Metallica : Some Kind of Mon- Open mon-sat 12 to 19:30, sun. 13-18 ster, The Ladykillers, Harry Phones 552 9011 - 5529012 Potter 3, Mors Elling (Elling 2) 20 MAN BITES SHARK

by Marcie Hume the shark go gracefully, to spit like a dancer would spit, if dancers were in alking through the doors of Kolaportið, you can’t help but the habit of spitting shark. Unfor- W tunately, there are strings hanging notice that it smells very Icelandic inside. If the DVDs, clothes, books from my teeth, mostly in one hefty and other classic Kolaportið scraps seem too overwhelming to sort glob lodged between two molars. I through, follow your nose to the dried fish, sitting in piles in the try to pull it out with the toothpick, room which features some of the finest and smelliest uber-Icelandic and when this fails, with my fingers. And in this moment, with the cuisine from the sea. Here you can find food items all the way from monster hanging off my face, time the foreigner-friendly salmon to kotareyktur rauðmagi, a thick black starts to slow down. It’s like taking wedge of fish which looks something like an individually packaged a great fall and knowing mid-air shoe. that you are going down, everything in slow motion. I realize all of my And then there are the huge green behind a big plastic fish which hangs friends have walked away, except for eggs spotted with black dots: seagull over his counter. His name is Hilmar one who is whispering “Okay, pull it and blackbird eggs. I’ve seen them Friðsteinsson. “The freshness here is together.” eaten raw before, right in front of unrivalled,” he tells me. “There’s not And then Hilmar tries to pass me a the counter. Who buys these things? chance of getting something spoiled dried fish chaser. But my gag reflex I felt compelled to ask. “Mostly here. And you can’t get most of is kicking in. old people,” says Hjalti Ásgeirsson, these things at the shops.” He’s been Eventually I get most of the shark the young man behind the counter. working at Kolaportið in one capac- out of my teeth. It lands limply on “They’re used to it,” he says, “but I ity or another for the entire fifteen the back of my hand, and then, with like them also.” years of its existence. Hilmar hands a can of Coke as my shepherd, I There are crowds around the stalls me a little beige blob on a tooth- swallow the rest. A few people laugh and transactions are surging faster pick and I can’t refuse. Initially it’s

H.S. and point at the girl grimacing and than at a McDonald’s in Texas. This tolerable, almost tasteless, although I gulping a Coke, and meanwhile the must be one of the busiest places in detain it in my cheek like a squir- shark burns my stomach, a good, the city. Generally, each stall is run rel…I’m not sure why, I chalk it up honest burn like I have swallowed by one family who sells potatoes, to instinct. As I begin to chew, I am something really inappropriate, and breads or seafood that they produce certain that this isn’t going to work the burn continues all the way home. or acquire themselves. Gunnar out for me. It’s an experience I needed to have, if Eyjólfsson tells me that all the fish at I decide to spit. This is obviously only to prove how hearty and durable his extensive counter comes from the beyond rude, standing right in front Icelanders are, and how cowardly work of just his family and their two of Hilmar, but there was no chance my digestive system is. While I was boats. They have been selling fish of coercing the blob down my throat. cringing in discomfort there were in Kolaportið for ten years and most At this point Hilmar decides to tell lines of elderly women handing over everyone in the family is a fisherman. me that what I am trying not to cash for this stuff. As Hilmar told “It’s always this busy,” he tells me. swallow is shark meat. I lean over me, “Foreigners usually just buy I approach a gentleman standing the rubbish bin and attempt to let salmon.” Guerilla Theatre of the Absurd ����� ARTS andCULTURE Kjarvalsstadir by Jonas Moody HER, HER, HER AND HER Photographer Roni Horn first came to Iceland 30 years ago and quickly became entranced. Her work encompasses “So there’s this chef and this hotel many aspects of the country’s geology, and even the indoor swimming pool Sundhöllin, which is featured in this reception clerk. And they’re just show. She keeps a low profile here but her body of work standing in the middle of Kringlan. holds Iceland as its focal point. Also at this location are One is standing on top of a planter new works by the Italian artist Francesco Clemente. and the other one is on the ground. And their poses look like something Hallgrímskirkja church, 11th July, 8pm out of Romeo and Juliet.” It didn’t SUMMER EVENING CONCERT stop there. My friend described to Christian Schmitt, a 28-year-old German organist, is one me scene after scene of mid-mall of the best of the younger generation. He will play music dioramas featuring frozen passion by the Icelandic composer Jón Ásgeirsson, as well as works between butchers and bakers and by Guy Bovet, Liszt, and Bach’s Prelude and Fugue in D. A good way to spend some time inside the Church many candlestick makers. Once I saw a of us use as a compass. If you don’t like organ music, you junior ballroom dancing competition

H.S. can close your eyes and pretend you’re in a David Lynch in the middle of Kringlan. The movie. sight of 8-year-olds gyrating to the cha-cha is, yes, unsettling, but Ásmundarsafn these vignettes sounded downright sessions to pick a theme. This year’s theme is “love” THE MAN AND MATERIAL absurd! Indeed, it is this seemingly absurd sense of in all of its various manifestations. Götuleikhús has A retrospective exhibit of the sculptor’s work. The exhibit engagement with the public that marks this young explored, among other avenues, passion without touching aims to create a memorable time for visitors of all ages, group of performers. Götuleikhús (Street Theater) is culminating in these live installations at Kringlan. and children are encouraged to explore and play while a group of 15 young people (from 16 to 25) selected They have also taken up familial love by assembling learning about the artist and his history. Plus, with an from numerous applications to work as a troop of street a family with parents on stilts, Tokyo punk children, admission ticket to the Roni Horn exhibit, your ticket is good for this show as well if you visit on the same day. actors, enacting invisible theatre throughout Reykjavík. and gargoyles for pets. The group’s next installment Under the direction of Steinunn Knútsdóttir and Oddvar will appear this Friday downtown as a series of mobile, Fjölskyldu og húsdýragarðurinn Hjartarson, the group is first put though a training private spaces, an entire apartment recreated outdoors for period including rigorous physical conditioning, exercises all of Reykjavík to see. SKINNY LEGS AND ALL to hone their minds, and a number of brainstorming Sure it’s just a zoo. But if you’re one of the few people in Reykjavík who didn’t grow up near any sheep, or if you really want to impress a seven year old, head on down to Laugardal. Here you can talk to the seals or make fun of the reindeers’ skinny legs. It’s the only place where nervous The visitor´s KEY to ICELAND animals like goats actually let you feed them (and talk to them, if you’re so inclined). The science tent and family Its saga and scenery Iceland is a country of park are great aspects as well. Over 400 colour photographs great and unusual A complete ROAD AND REFERENCE natural beauty. Every Þróttheimar, 11th July, 14:00-18:00 turn in the road, every GUIDE change in the weather LYKKJUFALL - HITT HÚSIÐ Including the highlands and all presents a new and A clothes line for the summer which the designer claims mountain roads fascinating aspect. to be “challenging but still with a romantic feel.” The line, created by two students at the Art School, will be sold at

as: “Island Atlas” Also A Þróttheimar youth centre. Detailed maps of the entire Icelandic road system On the Internet vailable in German Street maps of towns and villages Maps of numbered mountain tracks VISITREYKJAVIK.IS Map of golf courses Despite a few typos and the classic foreign-sounding Classified list of advertisers English, this website is a good place to find all types of Index of 3,000 place names events in the city. It’s a great reference guide for finding Information on accommodation, petrol stations, etc. opening times, phone numbers and locations. More or And much, much more less all galleries, theaters, opera, symphony events, etc. are Available in bookstores and petrol stations around Iceland listed here. If you’ve lost your “Grapevine in Your Pocket”, For more info call Stöng Publishing House – Tel.: + 354 554 77 00 this is where to go. 21 Shopping in Front of Suffering by Marcie Hume twenty-three. There are photos acquired from donating blood. of photography is proof, albeit he art world could not dream up a louder, more ideal juxtaposi- from a Berlin hospice showing One could argue that children selective, of what life can be like. T individuals’ faces first alive and have already been desensitized to When you’re wandering through the tion than this one. In the midst of the shopping haven of Kringlan then unmistakably dead, the life so images like these from television and mall, it is inconsequential whether are photographs of foreign faces peeking in, from places most of us apparently fallen from them. Seeing movies, but it’s more likely that they these photos represent a tiny corner will never see. And on the bottom floor, the faces are almost exclu- these photos is like being unwillingly just don’t register exactly what they of reality or the whole of it. Places sively those of people whose entire lives have been summarized and exposed, standing in front of the are seeing. As one viewer tells me, of deep suffering exist alongside our displayed here in a stilled moment of suffering image of death, surrounded by shop “They just don’t get it. When you’re daily lives, and they are linked. The windows which display soaps and that small, you think everyone’s life world these photos present is not skirts on sale. is just like yours. When I was little, if different from ours and, in looking, “People are confronted,” Sigríður it was raining in Akureyri, I thought we are more a part of it. tells me from her shop which it was raining everywhere else.” It seems that every parent is faces some of the most graphic Reality, however, is not a term guarding their child to the degree photos. “If you put these pictures that everyone agrees upon for this they see fit, but there is no shock or in another place, in a museum, no exhibit. “It’s supposed to portray outrage at the exhibition’s prominent one is confronted. People have just life as it is, but everyone in the location. After all, you can’t change come here to go shopping, so they photos is dying or in a war,” a man reality, but you can choose to walk are surprised… the photos take walking by the display tells me. by it faster. your breath away. It’s good to be “These photographers were trying confronted once in a while.” to seek out filth. Then people think The World Press Photo exhibition The images are set against an there are only dismembered heads in is on display at Kringlan through 18 orderly, spotless foreground where Africa, that that’s all life is there.” July. prams and strollers are being Of course the essence of this type It is, of course, to say the least, same: one large print shows a 15- wheeled casually by, some more disconcerting; the sorrow and scars year-old girl in Afghanistan, a pink quickly than others. Outside a hit us brutally under the bright mall bow in her hair, who set herself on somewhat enclosed area, there is a light. But the photos serve to remind fire because she feared her husband’s warning that the images inside may us that not only is there suffering rage after she had damaged his be too strong for children. But the while we are shopping, but it is in television set. photos facing the outside are nearly more places than our minds can hold This section of the exhibit does as shocking and they are in plain at once. There are images from the not just focus on the third world. sight. Small children walk by with wars in Iraq and Libya which show There are photographs of a girl in their parents, and I see one small burns and mutilations, and some America who, after battling leukemia boy reach up to touch the image of a from domestic circumstances that for three years, was preparing to Chinese man’s back that is all bones are confusing and horrific all the die in her own home at the age of and redness due to AIDS, which he ARTS andCULTURE LISTINGS : june 9 - july 22 H.S. Want to be seen in the listings? Send us a mail Iðnó - Theatre Saga Museum to [email protected] and your event will be Summer Season of Light nights July 5th - August 10:00-16:00 every day. SATURDAY SATURDAY announced in the next issue, and the best thing 27th. Every Monday and Friday at 8.30 p.m. The Saga museum intimately recreates key mo- is that being in the listings is free! (duration 2 hours). Light Nights is presented in ments in Icelandic history and gives a compelling JULY 10 JULY 17 English. view into how Icelanders have lived and thought National Gallery of Iceland Hallgrímskirkja Church for more than a millenium through the use of life Summer exhibition Environment and nature opens Lunch Time Concert - Douglas A. Brotchie, organ ONGOING Volcano show: Red rock cinema size likenesses ASÍ museum If you don’t want to wait for the next volcanic Hallgrímskirkja Church Klink og bank artist workplace Tue-Sun 14:00-18:00 eruption, then just go watch a video of the last, Museum of Medical History Lunch Time Concert - Christian Schmitt, organ Opening of show in the Greenhall. Junglestation it’s less dangerous and much more reliable then Sun,Tue,Thu,Sat 13:00-17:00 opens in the park of Klink and bank. Exhibition by the artist Hafstein Austmann, the Reykjavík City Library name of the show is Colours of the water nature. Admission 750ISK Artefacts, tools, instruments and pictures on the subject. Womenwalk threw downtown Reykjavík, the walk National Gallery of Iceland Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum starts at the city library. SUNDAY 11:00-17:00 every day 10:00-16:00 every day Reykjavík Electricity Museum This year’s summer exhibition will address the The Man and Material. A retrospective exhibition Tue-Sun 13:00-17:00 JULY 18 theme Environment and nature in Icelandic 20th- of works by Asmundur Sveinsson. A historical survey of the uses of electricity in SUNDAY Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum century art. the city of Reykjavik, from the time of the first Acordian day: Folk music program Reykjavík Zoo and Family Park hydroelectric station at Elliðaár, in operation from JULY 11 Hafnarborg Art Gallery 10:00-18:00 every day 1921 onwards. All around Iceland Hallgrímskirkja Church Wed-Sun 11:00-17:00 Icelandic horse and sheep, along with local va- Icelandic Museum Day. A great opportunity to Evening Concerts Sundays - By Douglas A. Waiting: Sculptures donated to the museum by rieties other animals in the zoo. Right beside it Reykjavík City Library gain free entry to the main museums, not only Brotchie playing on a organ the artist Einar Már Guðvarðarson. Also Contem- is the Park, which has various activities for the Mon-Fri 10:00-16:00 in Reykjavik, but throughout the country. One whole family. Books and periodicals in Icelandic as well as Eng- day only Salurinn Concert Hall in Kópavogur porary Japanese art: Japanese art made by 40 An international children´s choir festival bringing artists. The works include paintings, sculpture lish, Scandinavian and other languages. Also has Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum a childrens and a comic book section. Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum 400 children from all over the world together for and installations. 10:00-17:00 every day National Museum Day. History of Reykjavik. a week of singing. Ends by singing together at Klink og bank artist workplace Roni Horn: Her, her, her and her: Photographs Gallery Fold Guided tour at the museum. Service in museum these two concert at 18th of july. Workplace for artist, open when something taken in the Reykjavik Swimming Hall. Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00 Sat 11:00-17:00 Sun church 2 pm. Display of old motorcycles. Guided speacial is going on. Francesco Clemente: New Works. Exhibition of 14:00-17:00 history walk in downtown Reykjavik at 2 pm new works by the famous Italian artist. Works One of the largest Galleries in Iceland, works by TUESDAY Culture House from the Kjarval Collection. many know artists. Hallgrímskirkja Church 11:00-17:00 every day Evening Concerts Sundays - Christian Schmittþ JULY 20 A summer exhibition entitled The Poetic Edda. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum Gallery Meistari Jakob Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum The exhibition is intended to provide visitors Tue-Sun 14:00-17:00 Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-14:00 TUESDAY Simon Jermyn, guitar, Jóel Pálsson and Ólafur with some insights into these ancient poems. Works of Einar Jónsson, Iceland´s first sculptor. The gallery is run by eleven artists who work in Jónsson, tenor-saxophones, Þorgrímur Jónsson Many of Iceland’s national treasures are on dis- ceramics, textiles, printmaking and paintings and JULY 13 acoustic bass and Erik Qvick drums. Contempo- Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum you will always find one of them at the gallery. Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum rary jazz by Reid Anderson, Per ‘Texas’ Johansson play. Featured exhibitions Medieval Manuscripts 10:00-17:00 every day – Eddas and Sagas. Exhibition Home Rule 1904. Ragnheiður Árnadóttir, soprano and Peter Nilsson, and the musicians themselves. I Didn’t Do It. Private exhibition of Thorvaldur Gallery Tukt piano. Works by H. Purcell, W.A. Mozart, D. Ar- Gerðarsafn, Kóparvogur Art Gallery Thorsteinsson - the museum’s summer exhibition. Mon-Thu 13:00-18:00, Fri 13:00 - 17:00 gento and the Swedish composers Stenhammar, Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00. Also part of the Erró Collection on show. Various artists. and Peterson-Berger. WEDNESDAY RECENT AQUISITIONS: Works by Icelandic art- Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum Safn JULY 21 ists having exhibited at the museum in recent Tue-Sun 14:00-17:00 Wed-Fri 14:00-18:00. Sat&Sun 14:00-17:00 years. Ömmukaffi Sigurjón Ólafsson’s Works in public Space: Poster The works were the artists’ most current works THURSDAY 20:30 Poetry night, open mic Nordic House exhibition and sculptures related to Ólafsson’s at the time of the museums purchase. JULY 15 monuments and public sculptures. Mon-Fri 8:00-17:00, Sat&Sun 12:00-17:00 Gallery of the Icelandic printmakers as- Hallgrímskirkja Church 7-A View from the North: Travelling exhibition - 7 Reykjavík Museum of Photography sociation Lunch Time Concert - Sveinn Arnar Sæmundsson, THURSDAY artists from the Nordic Countrie. ISK 300,- Mon-Fri 12:00-19:00, Sat&Sun 13:00- Tue-Sun 14:00-18:00 organ JULY 22 Gallery Skuggi 17:00. Exhibition by Frank Hammerhöj, danish painter Hallgrímskirkja Church Thu-Sun 13:00-17:00 A collection of Finnish contemporary photo- Ends July 18 FRIDAY Nicole Cariglia, cello and Eyþór Ingi Jónsson, Gallery Skuggi is a new exhibition gallery for graphs. JULY 16 organ contemporary art, located in central Reykjavík. Icelandic Institute of Natural History Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum Klink og bank artist workplace Kling og Bang Gallery Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun 13:00-17:00 FRIDAY Children’s puppet show at 2 pm. Klink and bank Musicseries (Rússland) Exhibition by world famous american artists Paul Geological, botanical and zoological exhibits, dis- McCarthy and Jason Rhoades playing the nature of Iceland. JULY 9 Klink og bank artist workplace Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum Iceland inside - outside, introduction (Russia) Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat&Sun 10:00- 18:00 Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum is Reykjavík City´s folk museum and the largest open air museum in Iceland. It is composed of around 30 buildings from different periods, most of which have been moved from downtown Reykjavík. Austurvöllur out door exhibition Icelanders: Photography Exhibition in Austurvel- lir, A Meeting with the Icelanders over a period of two years, photographer Sigurgeir Sigurjóns- son and author Unnur Jökulsdóttir travelled around iceland. 101 Gallery Exhibition by various artists. Gallery i8 Thu&Fri 11:00-18:00 Exhibition by Jeanine Cohen Handverk og Hönnun Mon-Fri 09.00-16:00 Summer Exhibition of contemporary and tradi- tional Icelandic art and crafts. Pearl The sculptor Teddi displays his artwork of wood and metal at the Pearl in July. Kringlan mall World Press Photo exhibition: Press photos from all over the world will be exhibited in Kringlan shopping mall. Ends July 18 22 THE GRUMPIEST by Valur Gunnarsson MAN IN DUBLIN The longhaired man paced back and forth. He had been there when I arrived earlier during the day to pick up the tickets. When I came back six hours later to see the show, he was still there. I could contain myself no longer. Almost automatically the words came out, the same question I had posed to a thousand girls in a hundred bars. “Waiting for someone?” I found myself saying. “Yes,” he answered. They all did. This was usually my cue to exit, but pressing my luck I asked: “Who?” “The band,” he answered. who wanted. He stood on the second had spent a summer working as a to being in the presence of greatness step of the stage ramp, but even so I clerk in a Hagkaup supermarket in to come so prepared. I was not was a head taller. Still I felt small in the posh part of town. To keep my fortunate enough to have my Lou his presence. sanity while never-ending legions Reed collection about my person, Two consecutive responses. This was I started my autograph collection Monica Lewinsky had been at of groceries and cleaning products so I reached for my ticket and farther than I had gotten with most at age 14. Now, at age 26, it a book signing in Helsinki. Her marched down the conveyor belt, I handed it to him. Lou, usually the people. I started feeling an affinity numbered two specimens; Willie book was available in Finnish and took to asking celebs out shopping grumpiest man in New York, at this with the man, a sort of friendship Nelson and Monica Lewinsky. My Swedish, and since my Finnish for their autographs on the back of point the grumpiest man in Dublin, even. I couldn’t just let him stand first attempt at signature hunting barely suffices to order a kebab late their receipts. This way I could also and soon to be the grumpiest man there all by himself. I lit up a had occurred outside the Rica hotel on a Friday night that seems on its study what dietary habits were most in Reykjavík, looked at me like the cigarette and started pacing back and in Oslo, where I patiently waited way to leaving me unfulfilled again, likely to lead to stardom. Pop stars, pathetic creature that I was. Perhaps forth alongside him. He pretended the best part of an evening for Bob I opted for the Swedish version. A actors and TV presenters all obliged, concluding that it would waste less not to notice, but I knew that even Dylan to emerge. Finally, he did, and bodyguard took my copy of the book all but the President, out doing his time to be done with it, he scribbled if he didn’t admit it, he enjoyed my I approached him, but a bodyguard and handed it to her, gesturing me Sunday shopping, refused, saying I something unintelligible on the company as much as I did his. waived me away. “Never on a Friday,” away. Perhaps this was a precaution would have to contact his office if I ticket and vanished inside. And so I had just started on my second he said as I stood there, pen and to prevent bookbuyers making some wanted one. Damned if I’ll vote for ended the greatest moment of my cigarette when the longhaired man paper in hand, another Friday night sort of cigar-themed joke. She signed him again. life. The longhaired man strode addressed me again. “There they unfulfilled. my Swedish language copy, and happily off with his copy of The are,” he said as minivan approached Willie Nelson had been more barely audibly I could hear her saying Lou Reed stepped out of the van. Velvet Underground and Nico, and darted on after it. Our accommodating. At the end of the “Thank you,” before another security The longhaired man excitedly dedicated to someone named Pam, friendship, it seemed, had come to gig he patiently stood around and guard handed it back to me. handed him a copy of The Velvet and I held fast to my ticket, hoping an abrupt end. Inside the minivan sat signed autographs. Perhaps time Actually, my autograph collection Underground and Nico. On it was the signed bit was not the part they a small group of men. Even though passes differently in the plain he did number more than two. It only a yellow post-it saying “To Sam,” would tear off. I knew then that the the sky was darkening, they were all inhabits, or perhaps it’s the weed, but had two international celebrities. indicating to the Master what to longhaired man and I would never wearing shades. There was no doubt he didn’t seem to mind at all as time But I did have quite a few local ones. sign. The Master duly obliged. The see each other again. But we would that this was the band. passed and he signed for everyone After my first year of university I longhaired man was obviously used always have the music. On a mission to rock ����� MUSICandNIGHTLIFE by Hrafn Þráinsson A quick review of Jan Mayen Hitt Húsið, Tuesday, 13th July, 18:30 VARIOUS BANDS Even though the Icelandic rock scene is full of interesting recently in Roskilde Festival among the 90 thousand A gig to support the disabled held by a group called new things, there is always something that stands out. A other music fiends stuck up to the waist in mud last Götuhernaður (Street Fight). Bands playing are band swept through my mind that had stuck there since weekend. This time it was as guests, but they´ll probably Dáðadrengir(Icelands premier Hip hop band), I saw them play live in Bar 11: Jan Mayen. The band be elevated from the mud and onto the stage before long. Lokbrá(rock), Dys(hardcore), Innvortis(punk), I contains four members: Valgeir, guitar and vocals; Ágúst, Adapt(hardcore) and Andrúm(floyd). No Admission. guitar; Sigursteinn, bass; and last but definitely not least, the drummer, Viðar. All good and hard-to-pronounce NASA, Saturday 10th July, 23:00 Icelandic names. Jan Mayen was formed originally in GUSGUS early June 2002 but with a few minor changes, they now GusGus are an Electronic band. They’ve been around play together rock solid as never before. Asked for how forever it seems and are Iceland’s premier dance music they describe their music, Ágúst answers that they must composers and remix makers. They’ve remixed artists such be “somewhere between pop and punk”. In my opinion as Björk, Purkur Pilnikk, Depeche Mode and Sigurros. something of a blend of Pixies and Iron Maiden, which Members are; Earth, President Bongo, Buckmaster De La he also says they are influenced by, along with a Swedish Cruz and Biggi Veira. Dance nasty! Admisson 1.500ISK band called Bob Hund and the better known Sonic Youth. Jómfrúin, Saturday, 10th July, 16:00 Their self-titled EP album, which has sold out, shows JAZZBAND BAKLANDIÐ that they simply know how to rock. It was recognised Brothers Óskar and Ómar will be playing sax and as one of the 10 best Icelandic albums in 2003 by guitar. Backing them up are Jóhann Ásmundsson on Morgunblaðið and they were also named the most double bass and the islands greatest drummer (or any promising band of ´03. Even though the album is sold islands greatest drummer); Sigtryggur Baldursson out now, you can download it for free (how sweet is that?) former member of bands Þeyr, K.U.K.L and Sugar- on their website www.jan-mayen.com which is in English cubes and current member of drummer duet/band and Icelandic. One of their songs, called Nonsense, has Steintryggur. No Admission. been played regularly on radio stations such as X-ið. For interested readers, they will be playing Icelandic Listasafn Sigurjóns, Tuesday, 20th Airwaves, a music festival held in Reykjavík in August July,20:30 and are almost done with recording an album which will JAZZBAND B-SHARP be released sometime next fall. Until then, Ágúst says This five piece band is going to play contemporary they will stay on a mission to rock and enjoy themselves jazz both by the band and then some standards by and that´s probably what they have been doing, most other young jazz musicians. The bandmembers are: Jóel Pálsson on tenorsax, Ólafur Jónsson also playing tenorsax, Erik Qvick on drums, Þorgrímur Jónsson on Double bass and Simon Jormyn on guitar. Same band will also be playing at Deiglan up in Akureyri on the 22nd of July. No Admission

Café Reykjavík, Thursdays & Sundays CUCKOOS CABERET Upstairs at Cafe Reykjavik. you will find a city´s a ca- beret. Songs, sketches and stunts. Abba, The Beatles and Vikings with cellphones are all part of this 3 hour dinner show. 7.30pm - Thursdays and Sundays

Pravda Barinn, Thursday, 15th July VÍNYLL One of towns finer rock bands Vinyl. Frontman Kiddi sings, his twin brother drums, while Snake plays guitar and Addi plays a Rick. Vinyl is off to New York later this month to play in Central Park with another local band, Maus. 23 Outclassing Metallica by Bart Cameron member who doesn’t read as much). I’m reading a good Iggy Pop bio On Sunday, July 4th, Metallica played the biggest rock show in right now. But, of course, I love the history of Iceland. Six percent of the country’s population at- Burroughs and Jack Kerouac. Yeah, tended the show. Mínus shared the bill. If the Icelandic media was we’re all intellectuals. We like to be paying attention to American rockers, the international press was able to back up our opinions. Stand up for ourselves when we have to. starting to notice Mínus. An hour before going on stage in front of It’s good to be, you know, literate. 18,000 of his fellow countrymen, Krummi, lead singer of Mínus, (Interviewer can’t stop staring at spoke with me for half an hour about anything I wanted to discuss. tattoo that reads “Mamma” on Krummi’s neck as Krummi discusses Krummi: Sorry I couldn’t get you been shooting us today. literature.) into the show. I couldn’t even get my GV: So you’re on a roll? GV: What are you listening to, right girlfriend in. Krummi: We’ve been on a roll now? Grapevine: That sucks. If you’d for the last two years. Playing and Krummi: I listen to 70s and 80s known that, would you have signed playing. People sooner or later catch metal, and country and blues, you on for the show? on. We’ve been working like dogs. know, boogie woogie. Krummi: Well, she was my ex- (At this point in the interview, GV: Country? girlfriend. It doesn’t really matter. Krummi’s voice is cracking and he is Krummi: Gram Parsons, Merle Of course I would have signed on. shivering. We are standing outside, Haggard, George Jones. I have a side Actually, I’m really flattered we were as I couldn’t get inside Egilshöll. He project, Moody Company. We do able to play this. It’s just sinking in. has about forty-five minutes until the country. GV: (Derisively) Are you a Metallica biggest show of his life. I ask him if GV: Thanks. You should go. Biggest fan? he wants to go in and he laughs. I concert in Iceland’s history and all. Krummi: I really liked them when I can interview him as long as I need Good luck. was young, dumb and full of cum. to.) Krummi: Yeah, I need it. GV: Is it just me, or has the GV: You’re playing the biggest show GV: Do you need it? I really didn’t Icelandic press not covered the fact of your life, aren’t you nervous? get that impression. that you’re playing here much? It Krummi: I will probably get nervous all are. It improves the dynamics of and it seemed like a weird title for a Krummi: No. But I don’t want to seems like a big story. when I see the people come in. the band. rock album. sound overconfident. Krummi: They haven’t. But the GV: Uh, Krummi. I don’t quite GV: One more time, why did you GV: That’s interesting. Isn’t that too foreign press has. I’ve been doing understand this. You’ve been sober name your last album Halldór interesting for a rock interview? Are I walk away shaking my head. tons of interviews. Kerrang! and making sense. I was told you Laxness? you telling me you read regularly? Metallica are going to play for 6% magazine is doing a cover story were an incoherent rock star. Krummi: Laxness was a high society Krummi: Yeah, we’re always reading. of Iceland. Their opening band will about us right now. And Chris Krummi: (Nodding and very sober.) writer and we wanted to take him to Everybody but (he catches himself have them completely outclassed. Lopez, this great photographer, has I’ve always been very excessive. We our level, take him to street level… before naming the one Mínus MUSICandNIGHTLIFE LISTINGS : july 9 - july 22

Music and nightlife events usually start around picks for details) Prikið: DJ Gísli Galdur 21:00, unless otherwise stated. Pubs close at Dubliners: Troubadour Andy Kaffibarinn: DJ Raggi 01.00 on weekdays and much, much later on SATURDAY TUESDAY Nelly´s: Troubadour night, men with guitars try Foosball anyone can play! once a month weekends. For those just wanting to party, the Bar 11: their best as human jukeboxes a brewery sponsored foosball competition, great JULY 17 JULY 20 pubs and clubs don´t get crowded until after rewards, be there before 21.00 to be listed Jómfrúin: 16:00 Andrea Gylfa sings with her Bar 11: DiCE NIGHT : Test your luck at bar 11 midnight on weekends, although Thursday is a band, it’s free and it’s enjoyable. if you get the 1 on your dice your next drink is semi-official night out. Café Sólon: Green Room Session; DJ’s Andrés MONDAY and Tommy White Gaukur á Stöng: Band Á móti Sól play. For FREE those who care, their last gig was at the Cavern Jón Forseti: Karaoke night Pravda Barinn: For those tired of computer JULY 12 Club in Liverpool. games, why not play Yahtzee, chess, Trivial Pur- De Palace: THE GIG: Bands; Touch and Nilfisk Dubliners: Troubadour Andy Hverfisbar: DJ Andri suit or Backgammon? FRIDAY Sirkus: Tom Selleck moustache competition, an Nelly´s: Troubadour night, men with guitars try Café Culture: DJ Bobby K Prikið: Guest DJ JULY 9 their best as human jukeboxes annual thing, best moustache wins! Café Victor: DJ DeeJay disc jokes Nelly´s: Troubadour night, men with guitars try Nasa: 23:00 concert with Eyjólfur Kristjánsson Dubliners: Troubadour Gunga Din De Palace: DJ Exos their best as human jukeboxes 01:00 DJ Ísi Nelly´s: Troubadour night, men with guitars try Kaffibarinn: DJ Gísli Galdur Dubliners: Troubadour Thor Fitzgerald Dubliners: Band Friends of Adolf play their best as human jukeboxes Prikið: DJ Jói Grand Rokk: BBQ Night; Bands Maus and Hud- TUESDAY son Wayne, see “Grapevine in your pocket” for JULY 13 Sirkus: DJ Kári further details. Bar 11: DiCE NIGHT : Test your luck at bar 11 Felix: DJ Kiddi Bigfoot WEDNESDAY Felix: DJ Andri if you get the 1 on your dice your next drink is FRIDAY Jón Forseti: DJ Party & Dance Hverfisbar: DJ Benni FREE JULY 16 Café Sólon: DJ Þröstur 3000 JULY 21 Gaukur á Stöng: Band Dúndurfréttir (Big Café Victor: DJ DeeJay disc jokes Prikið: DJ Atli Prikið: 20:00 Band Búðarbandið plays fun stuff Bar 11: DJ’s Palli & Biggi from band Maus 23:00 DJ Surprise News) play the best of Pink Floyd, Led Zeppelin, De Palace: DJ Devious Pravda Barinn: For those tired of computer Celtic Cross: Downstairs: Band 3Some Uriah Heep and Deep Purple. games, why not play Yahtzee, chess, Trivial Pur- Gaukur á Stöng: Band Ísidór plays tracks of Upstairs: Troubadour plays songs by request Amsterdam: DJ Fúsi Kaffibarinn: DJ Gísli Galdur suit or Backgammon? their new LP Amsterdam: Drunk ‘n’ Funny band Buff plays Pravda Barinn: DJ Gísli Galdur and band Jag- Café Culture: Tango Night Nelly´s: Troubadour night, men with guitars try Felix: DJ Andri covers mixed with their own songs, who put glass úar’s front man Sammi work their magic Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva their best as human jukeboxes Café Victor: DJ DeeJay disc jokes it the...you know what? Dubliners: Sirkus: DJ Honky Tonk Troubadour night, men with guitars try Dubliners: Troubadour Thor Fitzgerald De Palace: DJ Devious Ari í Ögri: Duet Acoustics Nelly´s: Café Culture: DJ Luis their best as human jukeboxes Pravda Barinn: E&E Crew Café 22: DJ Maggi from band Úlpa Nasa: DJ Disco Dubliners: I B Band plays Kaffi List: DJ Mússíkant Pravda Barinn: DJ Jörundur Nasa: Icelands most popular and probably lon- Kaffibarinn: DJ Natalie Hverfisbar: DJ Kiddi Bigfoot WEDNESDAY gest lasting band in business, Stuðmenn play Jón Forseti: DJ Party & Dance Bar 11: DJ Lupen THURSDAY JULY 14 Sirkus: DJ Natalie tonight Café Sólon: DJ Svali Bar 11: Band Victory or Death plays hard stuff Mojito Club: Launch music JULY 22 Jón Forseti: DJ Party & Dance Café Victor: 1664 Night Prikið: DJ’s Gullfoss & Geysir Kaffibarinn: DJ Natalie Café Sólon: DJ Þröstur 3000 Hverfisbar: Acoustic duet Bítlarnir Celtic Cross: Downstairs: Band Spilafíklarnir Café Culture: Tango Night Upstairs: Troubadour plays songs by request Celtic Cross: Downstairs: Band 3Some Gaukur á Stöng: Band Dúndurfréttir (Big Prikið: Troubadour Einar Örn (not the Icecube Upstairs: Troubadour plays songs by request News) play the best of Pink Floyd, Led Zeppelin, Ari í Ögri: Duet Halli & Kalli from Sugarland) SUNDAY Amsterdam: Drunk ‘n’ Funny band Buff plays Uriah Heep and Deep Purple. Mojito Club: Launch music Dubliners: Troubadour Gunga Din JULY 18 covers mixed with their own songs, who put glass Grand Rokk: Band Tube Bar 11: Ronald Reagan Memorial Soundsystem Nelly´s: Troubadour night, men with guitars try Bar 11: 21:00 Movie Night; DAVID LYNCH - it the...you know what? Cabaret and Lunch night (see Nelly´s: Troubadours and DJ’s keep up the their best as human jukeboxes Eraserhead/Blue Velvet Kaffi Reykjavík: Ari í Ögri: Duet Acoustics picks for details) good work Kaffi Reykjavík: Cabaret and Lunch night (see Sirkus: Ýr & Sævar I B Band plays Dubliners: picks for details) Kaffibarinn: DJ Frosti Gringo Café Culture: Jamaican Night Dubliners: Troubadour Ingvar Valgeirs Bar 11: Eleven Poetry, the poetry nights at Bar Mojito Club: Launch music 11 are well known by now,try for yourselves. Nelly´s: Troubadour night, men with guitars try SATURDAY THURSDAY Grand Rokk: The Keflavik Invasion: bands play- their best as human jukeboxes Café Sólon: Green Room Session; DJ’s Andrés JULY 10 JULY 15 ing; Heiða og Heiðingjarnir, Tokyo Megaplex and and Tommy White Æla. Jón Forseti: Karaoke night Jómfrúin: 16:00 Jazzband Baklandið, see picks Café Victor: 1664 Night for details. Kaffi List: DJ’s Maggi & Bjarni from band Úlpa Prikið: Live music Hverfisbar: Acoustic duet Bítlarnir Band Friends of Adolf play MONDAY De Palace: THE GIG: Some rock bands playing Dubliners: Kaffi List: Band Tenderfoot Band Vax Dubliners: Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva Grand Rokk: Pravda Barinn: Band Vinyl play, see picks for JULY 19 Amsterdam: Coverband Oxford details. Dubliners: Troubadour Ingvar Valgeirs Nelly´s: Troubadour night, men with guitars try their best as human jukeboxes Hverfisbar: DJ Andri Kaffi Reykjavík: Cabaret and Lunch night (see Nelly´s: Troubadour night, men with guitars try Prikið: DJ Davíð picks for details) their best as human jukeboxes Amsterdam: Troubadours Ingvar & Stebbi Café Victor: DJ DeeJay disc jokes Felix: DJ Doktorinn De Palace: DJ Extreme Pravda Barinn: DJ Gyða Kaffibarinn: DJ Kári Sirkus: DJ KGB Café Culture: DJ Luis Café 22: DJ Matti from Radiostation X Kaffi List: DJ Mússíkant Jón Forseti: DJ Party & Dance Café Sólon: Dj Svali Celtic Cross: Downstairs: Band Spilafíklarnir Upstairs: Troubadour plays songs by request Ari í Ögri: Duet Halli & Kalli Nasa: Electro Band GUSGUS, see picks for details Gaukur á Stöng: Icelandic pop band Írafár plays covers, and perhaps a song or two by themself. Mojito Club: Launch music Bar 11: Rolling Stones Tribute Night Nelly´s: Talent competition; mix of talented people and people who think they have talents compete. SUNDAY JULY 11 Bar 11: 21:00 Movie Night : Dark City / Omen Kaffi Reykjavík: Cabaret and Lunch night (see 24 BEERMAN IN: “COMFORTS DON´T COME CHEAP.” by Beerman

We´ve all been there. You spend the night talking to a hot illustration by Þorsteinn Davíðsson waitress you´ve been after for months. It´s her night off and you´re hoping its your night on. Pre-blackout, everything seems to be going fine. And then you wake up. Next to someone who, as far as you can deteremine, is most definately not your waitress. How this happened you can only wonder. Did the waitress ditch you and then you simply went for the next person in the room? Or did you, in a moment of sheer insanity, or perhaps realising that the waitress was way outta your league, settle for what seemed more likely to lead somewhere?

Not knowing whether you scored the you reemerge from the toilet, she´s previous night, you move towards gone. Whether you managed to score her. She´s not nearly as pretty as a goal in the endless tournament your waitress, but she´s there and the that is the Reykjavík bar scene, you´ll waitress is not. Whatever happened never know. last night, your current bedfellow has And on it goes. You wait for night now lost all interest in you. This, of to come and head out again. I had course, turns you on. heard rumours of free beer at an elec- Somewhat stupidly, you reach for tion rally, and suddenly found myself your mobile phone and ask for developing an interest in politics. her number. She gives you seven The candidate in question was for figures, most probably at random, world peace, so I didn´t have a moral of his loving wife, if nothing else. tried to keep pace. A girl put her and swayed her body more in tune as you hurriedly press “Add entry.” crisis drinking his beer. Apart from The bar went back to charging hand on my shoulder, as if trying to than the music was. Before more The phone demands a name. At me, there was barely anyone is the world record prices for the beer, and see past me. I turned around. For a than a moment could pass, and I´m that point you realise you have no room but the candidate and his gor- the bar suddenly became filled with minute I thought I was in love. Then not one to count my moments, she idea what her name is, so you fail geus Russian bride. A couple of guys people. Obviously, you wouldn´t I realised it was just her estrogen was surrounded by men bumping to record what may or may not be came in and walked up to me. At want to be seen in a place where levels. She was at that point in her into one another, trying to keep her number. Not knowing what to least someone cared. “Is it true about everything was free. monthly cycle where she took to rhythm around her, and they all do, and hoping for relief from your the free beer?” they asked. I pointed A band came on. At the lack touching strange men for no appar- had a certain look in their eye. She predicament, you decide to head them in the direction of the empty of anything better to do I stood in ent reason, when even the slightest smiled, but not to me anymore. I sat for the bathroom. You stand up in bar. If you can´t even get the people front of the stage and stared at the touch seemed sensual. There was down and ordered a beer. Comforts front of her, naked. She gives you an to drink for peace, then what hope two people constituting the band, a something she emitted into the air. don´t come cheap in this town, but expression which tells you that what is there? The election over, the peace slightly overweight lead singer charg- I was not the only one picking up on they do have them. may have seemed to her like a good candidate cut off the free booze and ing through yet another rendition of this. She looked at me, emitted more idea at the time no longer is. When went home to the comforting arms Mustang Sally while the keyboardist of whatever it was she was emitting, Coffee, Java, Hipsters & Me by Marc Mettler

Multiplicity is a common trait in Reykjavík. Every week I go to places filled with author/painters, Icelandic/Americans or singer/songwriters in indie/punk bands. Even the Grapevine has a musician/editor. I meander down to café/bars where I Hverfisgata. lulls, I notice the absence of progres- try to fit in among the hipster/musi- “We get six people here and it’s sive-rock tunes in my ears and feel at cians born from Iceland’s punk/new- rush hour,” says the guy working the ease. wave/alternative music boom of counter. I notice that the place is The two oldest cafés in town, the 1980s. I sit among them in my really that small, but it’s filled to the Kaffi Mokka and Tíu Droppar, also favourite window seat upstairs in brim with an unpretentious blend dare to brave the coffee world in Prikið to people-watch. In Kaffi- of books, from Danielle Steel to the sound of silence. Mokka offers barinn, I stare at my ibook and join George Bernard Shaw. groovy 1950s décor with deep, brown the pretentious crowd of Macintosh I am introduced to Hulda tones and some tasty java to boot. worshipers. I meet friends at Kaffi- Hákon, who runs the place with her And sitting inside Tíu Droppar, brennslan where we ponder the latest husband, Jón Óskar. The walls are owner Hérdís Kírsten Hupfeldt album by Erlend Øye. Together we covered with art and photography by welcomes me warmly in Icelandic, sip a standard-yet-satisfying cup of the couple. Hákon plugs her latest despite my fast-talking English. coffee to an artsy soundtrack. art show at a nearby gallery and When I start to feel weighted It’s the same thing week-in, explains to me how they were able to down by all the rich, black coffee week-out and I’m starting to get pay for the opening of the café with served around town, I step into the bored. I realise that when it comes to their artwork. competitive Kaffi Tár on Bankastræti cafés, sometimes less is more. to peak my caffeine high with a final And that’s exactly what I find as I A regular stops in to order pan- zinger. sit with my richly brewed cup of joe cakes and read the paper. He chats With a wall of trophies from both in Grái Kötturinn (The Gray Cat), with the workers like old friends. I national and world barista competi- a special “artist-run café” tucked-in feel welcome to join in or enjoy my tions, Kaffi Tár takes pride in the

across from the National Theatre on coffee alone. When the conversation unique iced-coffee drinks created by H.S.

By the Reykjavík harbour its smiley staff. I order the recom- locations where coffee is grown. Suðurbugt Reykjavík harbour mended “The Naked Lime,” which Energized and a bit shaky from Tel: 551 5101 combines espresso, milk, caramel all the caffeine, I recognise the key syrup and lime with tongue-twisting behind many of these cafés: they talent. I had forgotten that coffee don’t serve alcohol or try to double as could be light and refreshing. a bar. And many of them have only The downtown location (one daytime hours. The focus, then, stays of four Kaffi Társ in Iceland) has on what matters: the coffee. And a more drink-and-run style, with good service, of course. young and old customers enter- I ask Grant about her experience ing and exiting in swift rotation. before the coffee business. “I was a Manager Sonja Grant explains that carpenter,” she replies. I guess multi- the hot-colour scheme of the café plicity is impossible to avoid. was chosen to resemble the tropical Aesthetics and Politics Hafnarhús Tryggvagata 17 Renowned works by the Icelandic pop-artist Erró

Open daily 10-17, free on Monday www.artmuseum.is Café and Museum boutique [email protected] 26 INTERVIEW PLEASE DON’T INTERRUPT SIGUR RÓS by Bart Cameron

Here’s the important thing: Sigur Rós is recording a brilliant new album at their studio in Mosfellsbær. The band, which recently celebrated their tenth birthday, is working together at a level that will astonish fans and anybody interested in contemporary music. Sigur Rós are critics’ darlings and they have a fanatic fan base - next year, they will prove they deserved all the attention and they will get much, much bigger.

As the photographer drove me out - it was crystal clear, complex, of Reykjavík, complaining about and hypermelodic. As the song Mosfellsbær as a suburb that takes continued, the band, laughing and too long on the bus, I could help smiling, ran to different instruments. noticing that, boring as the town By the end of song one, there was a may be, most people in the world solid drum beat and driving bassline, would be impressed with its beauty and the song genuinely felt complete. - set under mountains and against a Orri, who up to this point has been bay. Sundlaug, Sigur Rós’ studio, is Powerhouse English tea time extremely quiet: We’re never on the a striking building: an old concrete dream rock same page. swimming pool, yes, but an old concrete swimming pool with a During the second song, I made Okay, it goes on like that. Which is river running underneath it, a duck the depressing realization that not to say they were mean-spirited. pond on one side, and a terraced everybody in Sigur Rós can play the They were just quiet. hill that has been used as a natural vibraphone well. Again, everybody amphitheatre on another. was running around from instrument “Unbelievably quiet” to instrument, building this time Everybody can play anything to a denouement in which a toy Björn Erlingur Flóki Björnsson piano kicked out its slight notes over runs Sigur Rós’ official website, When we finally opened the door music that I can only describe as www.sigur-ros.co.uk. He laughed to the studio, after standing outside powerhouse English tea time dream uncontrollably when I told him I’d and just listening for a full song, the rock. had a bad interview. band was slightly thrown off. Yes, The band was happy. I was happy. “Everybody does. Who’d you get?” we were expected. Jónsi, singer and The photographer was happy. I said, I told him Goggi and Orri, the multi-instrumentalist (everybody in “That was great. Really great.” bassist and drummer. the band can play anything), gave us “That’s the worst pair. They’re so an embarrassed tour of the studio. unbelievably quiet.” The band went to put on their shoes Watching them perform their new So what the hell, I said. These are and head out to a bakery. In an ideal songs was a highpoint in my life as nice guys, they make great music, world, we would have interviewed a music fan, seriously, and the band why intentionally give me a bad at the bakery. There were no seats, is made up of very nice people, but interview? and nobody was really interested in interviewing them sucked. Trust me. It was nothing personal: “I got a bad clearing out. Nobody was interested Fifteen seconds into the interview, interview, too. I got those two… in the critically acclaimed band at all. Jónsi and Ragnar walked out of the Sigur Rós will do anything to avoid The only thing that drew attention room. Fifteen minutes later, Orri and business. To them interviews are was me ordering in English. Goggi and I decided to just give up. business.” “Everybody knows they’re not big So we returned to the studio and on interviews,” he went on to say. ducked into a modest nook. I sat on “It´s changed” “The worst thing is the way foreign a stool, took out my notebook and magazines go on and on about how everything got boring. And that’s part of the point of Sigur quiet the guys are. They overhype Rós, by the way. For a band that the reserved qualities. They love Then, when they were done with produced an untitled album with making Icelandic things more the interview, everyone in the band Hopelandic lyrics and ten-minute unique than they are. ‘Oh they’re so started smiling and stretching. Their songs, a pat interview might be Icelandic!’” work was done. I stayed on and got unsettling. Here’s an excerpt of what out of the way, and the band ran I got out of the interview: No, their lack of interest in down to the bottom of the old pool Bart: Can you describe the music on interviews is not typically Icelandic. and started playing vibraphone and the new album? Look, Sigur Rós just isn’t a band you organ. Goggi: It’s changed. interview. Let’s leave it at that. If you Bart: And how has it changed? want a good interview with Sigur There were almost no effects. And silence Rós, well, ask yourself why. Jónsi sang without a mic. His Goggi: Our music evolves naturally. voice was still haunting. It still silence Sigur Ros’ new album should be carried perfectly. Jónsi played the Bart: Well, were you influenced by completed early next year. When groundwork, or the centering chords, any music for this album? Any CDs it comes out, hopefully people on organ, and on top of that the make a big impression? will relax and enjoy it instead of other band members weaved melodic Goggi: Hip hop. interrupting with questions… or hooks. The closest comparison might Bart: Really? even compliments. be some of the instrumentation in Goggi: No…Nothing we know is Belle and Sebastion’s new album influencing our music.

BERGSTAÐASTRÆTI 13 - PHONE: 551 3083

Oldest bakery in Iceland since 1834 H.S. Segafredo, Lækjartorgi Italian Espresso Bar Open 08.00-00.00 28 OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK ON THE RIVERBANK WITH BUBBI by Robert Jackson

It’s the car you notice first. So many millions of kronur’s worth of tinted windowed, metallic grey, whispering-wheeled Range Rover. Then out jumps the driver, dressed from top to toe in an equally im- pressive several hundred thousand kronur’s worth of Simm’s, metallic grey waders and wrap-around shades. We are on the banks of one of the country’s most exclusive salmon rivers with Bubbi Morthens. The drugs and drink behind him and an early morning regime of workouts in the boxing gym have produced a man who exudes health and energy; a man in his prime. And, as Bubbi celebrates his 25th anniversary as a professional musician, he has never been happier, nor busier. A new album (his sixteenth), the publication of a children’s book, the second series of Idol, a documentary and a regrouping of Egó are all to be a good state of mind, I’m in balance packed into the next six months. But with nature.” He laughs. “I’m now is the summer and summer, for unplugged!” Bubbi, means Iceland and fishing. Communist, traitor and anarchist “As a kid I spent the days fishing out on Meðalfellsvatn, rowing We head off down to the river. The and hooking trout out of the lake northerly wind brings with it a chill the whole summer long. It was a and the prospect of bad weather. “I total freedom. I set off each day on hate rain. Fisherman will always tell adventures, the lake, the river or the you that rain and cloud are good for mountains - I’d take my pick. When the fishing but I don’t like it. This you are a kid you can step into is not the way I want to see nature. interspersed with laughter and Egó strikes again a family relationship. whatever world you want to step I like sunshine, hot weather. That’s humour. into. I would only come back when my kind of weather. The sun has decided to break loose The only way. Man. I was hungry. It was glorious, it was You know, we finally we have a “It almost like this government from behind the clouds and Bubbi my life and my joy to be there.” generation who are growing up to doesn’t see tourism as real project. now stretches out on the bank to “We are going over for the first believe that their country is their They see it as a cheap buck, easy grab some rays, the young man who gig in the Westman Islands for the Nicotine gum and fishing mother, it’s a living creature. It’s money… they don’t want to plan for sat and stretched his legs, smoking holiday festival. We’ve put together instead of drugs not just a piece of rock. But we the future. We have guys who used a joint while being interviewed in a great set, I can feel it all ready. have a government who really aren’t to fish showing tourists the whales, Rokk í Reykjavík seems a long way It’s going to be great. They’ll hear Bubbi’s itching to get down the that committed to it. They look they start to make whale watching away. This summer sees him pulling the new Egó play the old songs river, but he also seems happy to talk at our country and say, ‘What can good business. But the government his band of those days, Egó, together in a fresh way. We’ll play some a while longer. He pops a piece of we squeeze out of it, what can we says: “Well we’ll just keep killing a again. Utangarðsmenn songs, a few from nicotine gum into his mouth; since get out of it?’ So they build damns, few during the tourist season.” What my solo career and we’ll put some giving up smoking a few weeks ago aluminium smelters and they ruin sort of message does that send? It’s “This will be the fifth version of others in there like ‘Guns of Brixton’ he chews it with the determination the country and they will tell you just like in my grandfather’s times. Egó. Me and Magnus Stefánson, and maybe some other Clash of a major league baseball player. that they are doing it for the people.” ‘I’m my own boss, I don’t care what we decided to form the band with numbers. But mainly it will be Egó. you say.’ All that old shit. It’s like new members. We are not just We´ll fly in, play 1 1/2 hours and “When I got off the drugs I knew “I protested against Kárahnjúkar, but listening to Einar Benediktsson…It’s getting together for three gigs; we go and then fly out.” Times have that I had to do something that was the problem is that too many people so short sighted. They don’t see into are planning to write and move changed. normal. here are too scared to make a stand. the future, they don’t see reality. Egó forward. We will do an album. I started to think, what was the Too scared to say what they truly The future has to be tourism. People We’ve been working really hard, He leaps up and strides over to thing that I loved the most, what believe in case down the line they come in their thousands to see our firstly getting the old material unclip his rod from the roof of the was it that meant the most to me? can’t get a job or a career. I spoke country; they don’t come to see together. When I’m there singing car. “Man, what am I doing? There’s Well, it was fishing. So I said to out and will continue to speak out aluminium factories.” some of these old lyrics, I think, fish in this river and I’m sitting here myself, ‘I’m back into the fishing.’” against Davíð and Halldór selling ‘Wow, Man!’ This is an arrogant talking…” the East to Alcoa, I tell people We are down by the river now and attitude, this is something. Then He has studio time booked to finish that it is only Alcoa who will make the air is thick with the calls of the there are songs that are so brilliant Another stick of gum and Bubbi the new album. For some, fishing any money out of it. I get called a whimbrels, terns, snipe, plovers, - I am speechless.” He grins as he wades into the neck of the pool to is a complete break for work but for communist, a traitor, an anarchist in all who have come to lay their eggs says it. catch his first fish from this river this Bubbi it can be part of the creative return (sounds like a good mix -ed). before heading south for the winter. season. If he does he will release it. process. More people should be prepared to “I’ve always liked working with a This too, is a thing that has changed. speak out.” “Listen to that. Isn’t it amazing? We band. You are less exposed than “I get a lot of ideas when I’m on need to get more Icelanders out into when it’s just you on stage with “Make sure you tell them that these trips. I find that words or Fighting to keep it the country in the summer. This your voice and your guitar. It’s ten Icelanders should stop killing every melodies, they come easily out here. whole valley’s alive with birds. It’s times more difficult; you have to salmon they catch. We’ll have none I don’t have to work for them, and Bubbi has always been outspoken the same all over the country. To be keep everything in the palm of your left for our children and our rivers if they come when I’m fishing, and it is hard to find a topic that here, to witness it is part of a much hand. If you do anything wrong it will be dead. Catch and Release, they’re fresh and they go to ‘the he is reticent about, but his manner bigger thing. If more could people screams out from the stage. You are Catch and Release - it’s the only bank’ and they stay there. It´s nice is always lighthearted and the could experience this they would so vulnerable up there alone. In a way, man.” really nice. When I’m fishing I’m in rants, which come in waves, are fight harder to keep it.” band you are part of it. It’s more like And so I have.

Exiting planned day tours and KÖ-HÖNNUN / PMC custom made tours by your own wishes 29 Island Life Hella - Cocaine and horses Cocaine dealers in Iceland were busy last weekend trying to sell their product to horseback riders on the national equestrian competion. ���������� �������� ����������� Clearly Icelandic pushers are trying to widen their target group even though they make over 600 million ISK a year just for selling the drug.

Hornarfjardarmanni. World champion Iceland has a new World Champion of Hornafjardarmanni which is a ����������� card game only known in Höfn í Hornafirði a small town in the south of the country. 135 people tried their best but Björn Arnarson came, ��������� saw and conquered. Björn is a bird enthusiast and a member of staff in a local cultural center on daily basis. Keflavik - Attempted break Two teenagers were caught trying ������������� to break through the fence of the NATO base at Keflavík by the 10 soldiers of the US military police SEARCHING FOR who showed up in two SUV´s. The boys claimed that they were just tak- SHANNON ELIZABETH ing a walk along the base fence. by Bart Cameron

You need more Americans here. It’s a guys trip. Strip clubs, women, It is a sunny but windy and cold day, and Höddi the photographer beer. It’s a location,” says the marketing expert when I ask why and I are walking down the center of a fairway in Hafnarfjörður. 160 golfers were deposited in a We’ve been searching for Shannon Elizabeth - best known for ap- suburban Icelandic golf course. pearing nude in American pie - for an hour. All we’ve found is a “There’s a guy out there named bunch of fat and lethargic American men in their mid-thirties. Bubba,” I say. “Really? Bubba. That’s great,” Seeing Höddi’s camera, some stop problem: they don’t know who the she says and writes it down in a us to deliver quotes: “I came to enjoy celebrities are. Adam, a fourteen- notebook. “That’s what’s great about the culture and the game itself ” year-old who has been assigned the this kind of event. This is the new says John Poppy, a Heineken beer task of standing on an especially face of golf. These are guys who buy distributor from Phoenix. Never windswept rock and waving flags clothes off the clearance rack. They mind that all I asked him was where when the balls go out of bounds, won’t pay for a nice shirt, but they I can find Shannon Elizabeth. Never eventually fills us in. The old one, he will come out to Iceland.” mind that he is speaking so slowly says, is on hole five. He hasn’t seen “Do you have a name for this type and loudly that he must suspect me any young woman. of person?” She has been so specific, of being Icelandic, hard of hearing, Finally, we find our celebrity. A there must be textbooks about these and possessing sizable learning celebrity. We find Tanya Roberts, guys. disorders. His buddies all say the hot mom from That 70´s Show. “Average American golf consumer,” “Bullshit, you came for the women.” She is nice, and she is freakishly she says. “Yeah you came for the chicks.” But attractive. She is also very, very small. he looks at me with a mock sincerity A golf ball takes up her entire hand. I pointed out to my marketing friend as though his quote was somehow a She says the same thing she said on that Iceland is expensive, that there deep answer. RUV the night before: “I really want are very few strip clubs, that it is a Poppy’s fat friend Bubba from New to see Gullfoss and the geyser, but literary and artistic community. She Orleans takes me aside and says we haven’t gotten there yet.” In the shrugged off my answer. There were “This island’s great. You need to get same tone she goes on and says, “I 160 guys here who didn’t have a clue more Americans here.” hate getting stuck in lava.” about Icelandic culture, and they She poses for Höddi. She then were extremely content. Höddi and I grab some Heinekens prepares to drive, Höddi standing and donuts from a golf cart driven by directly in her peripheral vision, H.S. If the ugly Americans are coming that contestants would “Golf at they served Amstel. two teenage Icelandic girls whose job distracting her by snapping away at to Iceland, coming to golf into midnight” started at 2pm, and the it is to provide refreshment to the his camera. She lobs a drive into the incredible headwinds in extremely organizers have all left by 3:30. Better than Shannon Elizabeth, we American men, but who are doing rocks about thirty yards away. temperamental weather on courses Instead of midnight golf, the find an American marketing expert. their best to avoid them. “Where is the alcohol?,” she says. full of rocks, well, it may not do itinerary for the evening includes a “We’ve been waiting for the beer all Iceland is the next Myrtle Beach. much for American stereotyping, Who´s Tanya Roberts? afternoon.” ten-bar pub crawl. Included in the “It doesn’t matter that the wind is but it will probably be good on We give up talking to the American Icelandic pub crawl, two Irish pubs bad and nobody golfs here. This is Icelanders’ egos. And it’s possible it men and only now talk to the We don’t find Shannon Elizabeth. and quite a few seedy bars which the whole Myrtle Beach experience. won’t really hurt anyone. Icelanders working the course. The The tournament, which boasted must have only been chosen because � ��� by Margrét Örnólfsdóttir � � 1. On Top (Með allt á hreinu) by Ágúst Guðmundsson (1982). Margrét Örnólfsdóttir was the 2. Regina (Regína) by María Sigurðardóttur (2001). Of course it Sugarcubes keyboardist, having would have been in my nature to put my own offspring in first place on formerly been member of the band the list but I decided to show a little bit of modesty. It is, on the other Risaeðlan (Reptile). She has done hand, maybe not so illogical to put Regina second after Með allt á hreinu ������ various things since, notably writing because it is not unlikely that my obsession to bring that song-crazed girl the screenplay and music for the into the world can in some way be traced back to the impact MAÁH had children´s film Regina. on me back in the old days. 3. Dot Dot Comma Dash (Punktur, punktur, komma strik) by Þorsteinn Jónsson (1980). I was 12 years old when this film was made and because my father was one of the producers I could be around and watch the preparation and shooting. That´s probably where it all started, when I became interested in film making. Undoubtedly the most entertaining Icelandic movie ever made and the first 4. Rainbow´s End (Á hjara veraldar) by Kristín Jóhannesdóttur (1983). movie I paid twice to go to see. It was made by people who were determined When Rainbow´s End was released I was passionately into European films and this film was in harmony with that. I found it deliciously weird to entertain the audience and they were having tremendous fun doing it. It is and beautiful and it spoke strongly to me even though I didn´t really filled with such joi de vivre and fluent sense of humor that even the head- understand it. strongest fýlupúkar are bound to lighten up. 5. Rock in Reykjavik (Rokk í Reykjavík) by Friðrik Þór Friðriksson (1982). It felt like Rock in Reykjavik was sent from heaven to give you the Með allt á hreinu brought a fresh and powerful feel into the Icelandic film environment, message that you actually had a chance in this world. What a treasure! although it wasn´t much of an environment at the time. At least we the teenagers 6. Pigen Gogo, aka Taxi (79 af stöðinni) by Erik Balling (1962).I thought Icelandic films were quite lame and boring with bad acting and terrible sound. don´t know what it is with this film. Maybe it is my weakness for black I think few musicals have such a high number of hit songs as this one does. Almost all and white movies with creaking sound, but more likely it is the delight of the songs of the film went straight to that place in your head where songs that will not be watching Kristbjörg Keld who is so strikingly beautiful that you instantly forgotten go to. And every single scene of the film is memorable. It is hard not to admire forget that you have ever set eyes on Ava Gardner. the big thinking. I´m not sure any film producer today would approve to sending two pop bands and Eggert Þorleifsson and no script on a tour around Iceland. Oh, and we 7. The Icelandic Dream (Íslenski draumurinn) by Róbert I. Douglas mustn´t forget to thank this movie for making an actor out of Eggert Þorleifsson. (2000).When I saw The Icelandic Dream I remembered how much fun it can be to go to the movies. This is one of the funnier pictures I´ve seen and it´s a relief to finally get this relaxed atmosphere into acting and dialogue, which is one of the major complaints you can have about Icelandic filmmaking, even though it is getting much better. � ��� by Einar Örn Benediktsson 8. Magnus (Magnús) by Þráinn Bertelsson (1989). Þráinn Bertelsson manages in Magnus to procure a very balanced atmosphere that it is At the tender age of 17, Einar was manager difficult to master. It is both light and funny and bittersweet and human. for Bubbi´s band Utangarðsmenn. He then formed his own band, Purkur Pillnikk, one of

������ the most influential bands on the punk scene. When punk supergroup Kukl was formed from the leading members of the punk scene, Einar � � was one of the founders, despite studying 1. Fan Houtens Kóko media in Britain at the time. Kukl became the 2. Lojpippos og Spojsippus Sugarcubes and went on to world domination 3. Stanya: Líf 4. Oxzmá I remember nothing! And I am thankful for that memory or memory 5. Sogblettir: 5. gírinn loss which could be attributed to excessive exposure to noise and bad radio 6. Curver: haf for decades. It also makes my day when I try to finger what has made my 7. Jonee-Jonee: Svonatorrek day in the past, made me tick and think, yes this is it! And it usually boils 8. Trío Ólafs Ósýnilega down to songs or tracks rather than whole albums. My memory remembers nothing really with only drums, bass and voice, the Spojsippus, making strange music on synths some 2 decades ago and bringing before 1977 in music, if anything then simplicity is still something which is to smile on my face everytime, and recently given 4 tracks they made brought listening to Megas through my friend be admired. Curver’s Haf, a submerged back the smile. Bragi whose musical know-how towers trip into the deep. I later learned that Fan Houtens Kóko “Það brakar í Herra K”, says it all in the title, “Mr. K is over mine. Requested to list eight, I go his first vinyl on his Christmas list was creaking” and the certain assertion that “the city can be seen”, just makes me automatically back, way back, in order to Sogblettir. In their 5th gear, they did not want to cry and make sure that the rest will be just as simple as that. Their see if something from the past makes me mean to take any prisoners but to mow stuff is still shit hot, if my memory serves me right. want to join Mínus today. I remember everyone down. In Oxzmá I find that Trió Ólafs Ósýnilega, a duet, of course, multi layered talent, when art was not who played transistors and liquid fuel at a swear word. Stanya brought me Líf, a � � the launch of a Purrkur Pillnikk record. vinyl EP, which at the time interwined Jonee-Jonee made it all the simpler music as a travelogue. Lojpippos and 1. The Master and Margarita by Mihail Bulgakov 1 1/2. Gerpla (Happy Warriors) by Halldór Laxness. Laxness’ great outcry against the glorification of war is a testament to his masterful command of epic storytelling. Imitating the style of the Sagas, he moves � ��� by Sjón his hapless hero from one hilarious massacre to the next. Yes, you’ll laugh your brains out as you slowly realize that there is no such thing as a good SJóN published his first collection of poetry cause in war, that all wars are really fought against the interests of us at the tender age of fifteen, three years before common people. And shame on ye Poets who praise Kings! reading the Master and the Margarita. 2. The Last World by Cristoph Ransmayr. A fascinating rewriting of He has also published the novels “Night Of Ovid’s Metamorphoses with the poet himself at the heart of its drama. Steel”, “Angel, Tophat and Strawberries” and Go, I dare you, go visit the Iron city and its shape-shifting inhabitants. ����� “Thine Eyes Saw Me”. His other activities 3. UBIK by Philip K. Dick. Since the death of sci-fi genius Horselover include three private art exhibitions, a brief Fat, it has become obvious that the rest of us are trapped inside his career as the megastar Johnny Triumph, and imagination. writing the lyrics to Bjork’s recent hit-song 4. Edda by Snorri Sturluson. No one turns a phrase like this Icelandic “Isobel”. Renaissance man. No one! Due to a misunderstanding, which may or 5. Not before sundown by Johanna Sinisalo. In this incredibly may not be the fault of your editor, Sjón listed entertaining and thought-provoking novel, the Finnish writer Sinisalo his top 10 books of all time, be they Icelandic reinvents our world as a place where the feline-looking Night Trolls of old or not. legends are not only real but a force to be reckoned with. 6. The Quest for Dr. Ü by H. C. Artmann. Who is Dr. Ü? Is he the y absolutely favourite book is the novel ‘The Master and M trapeze artist with the obviously fake nose sitting next to you on the bus? Margarita’ by Mihail Bulgakov. I first read this Russian masterpiece in Or is he the Devil himself hunting for yor soul? English when I was at the tender age of eighteen. It blew my mind to see 7. The Golden Ass by Apuleius. A horny man is turned into an ass how easily Bulgakov mixed fantasy and reality and stirred it all up with and goes on a punishing quest to reclaim his human form. Need I say a healthy dose of humor, love/sex, humanism and theology. The book had more? such a profound influence on me that for a few months I actually became 8. The Demon Flower by Jo Imog. This dark fairy tale is about a little one of the characters in the story; Korofiev the Choirmaster. He is one girl who gets rid of her family to be able to live with her love, an eccentric woman, living in the next Alpine village. of Satan’s sidekicks; a dangerous and idiotic troublemaker harbouring a 9. ELEKTRA Assassin by Frank Miller. Frank Miller’s story about slowburning sorrow. (So, now you know!) And, ah, I must confess, ever Elektra and her fight with the apocalyptically inclined and demonically since those bright and blue summer days of 1981 have I struggled and posessed president of the USA is as relevant as ever. Yeah, where are the strived to write something half as good as this marvellous book. sexy, twisted, sword-wielding ninja girls when we need them?