Dwelling Place for Body, Rest for the Soul

TOS RECOMMENDS–VACATION IN ETHNO ENVIRONMENTS

DWELLING PLACE FOR BODY, REST FOR THE SOUL

Ethno-tourism is one of the most genuine tourist products of Serbia. The Tourist Organisation of Serbia (TOS) gives an annual award called the Tourist Flower Award for achievements in various fields of tourism. The title of the best one in 2013 in the category of rural tourism went to “Golijski Konaci” (Golija Quarters), a newly opened ethno-tourist complex in the village of Komadine, near Ivanjica. “Dwelling place for body, rest for the soul” is a slogan that hits the essence: comfortable accommodation and amenities of the Golija Quarters are just a nice frame for spending time in splendid nature with interesting people..

54 Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest t a press conference held at the Tourist pool surrounded by it... When after three hours Organisation of Serbia (TOS) at the of an easy drive we reached the gates of the Golija BIRTH PLACE OF RURAL TOURISM Abeginning of July, Ivanjica presented Quarters, the impression was powerful and we Rural tourism has been developing for its offer for the upcoming season. The tourist were surprised. The images we carried from the vir- more than four decades in the villages entrepreneurs from the Ivanjica end included tual world were veracious, but missing the essence: in the neighbourhood of Ivanjica. Apart Draško Milosavljević, the owner of the Golija the beauty of the area between the hills, feeling of from the Golija Quarters and the men- Quarters, who addressed the press in a manner space, an inner harmony, a view of forests and a tioned Avramović pension, also known fairly uncommon for such occasions, “I am a car- belfry of the village church. The real world of the is the Obradović pension in the village penter by profession. I made all that you see with Golija Quarters surpasses the virtual one. of Katići. The Obradovićs also got their my own hands. I would have never succeeded The Milosavljević family welcomed us in full “Tourist Flower” in 2005. The newly opened without the support of my family, my wife above force: Draško, his wife Jaca, sons Veljko and “Ivanjički Konaci” (Ivanjica Quarters) need all.” And then he presented the complex: two Vukašin. While sipping coffee and homemade to be mentioned. By amenities and the modern mountain houses called “Golija 1” and raspberry brandy, we slowly stepped into the beauty of surroundings, they are not “Golija 2”, an ethno restaurant “Krčma” (Inn), two world created by hard work and imagination of behind Golija Quarters. A complete offer of bungalows, an open pool, a playhouse and a park these young people. “We started building by acci- rural tourism is published on the website of for children, domestic food... at affordable prices. dent. My wife and I decided to build a weekend the Tourist Organisation of Ivanjica The Golija Quarters look very attractive. The place cottage here, at my mother’s property. It was only www.ivatourism.org. where the complex is erected is at the bottom of later that I realised that I could use this space to the Golija nature park and is well known for its build a lot more. And that’s how we accomplished healing air. Height above the sea level just ideal. this that you see now.” The Milosavljević family Plethora of possibilities for research and short trips has continued decades-long tradition of tourism – Ivanjica, Golija, Javor and Mučanj mountains, in the Ivanjica area. They visited some successful Studenica monastery, Uvac lakes... ethno-complexes throughout Serbia and got the The presentation of Draško Milosavljević really right kind of advice from professionals in the impressed me. It was both modest and suggestive Tourist Organisation of Ivanjica. This is their first so I wished to spend my vacation there. I shared season. my impressions from the press conference with my husband, we took a look at the website of A MEDITATING FROG the Quarters and decided to cancel our previously We stayed in one of the bungalows. Besides a booked trip and spend our summer vacation at the nicely furnished room and a bathroom, we had a Golija Quarters. Back then I didn’t even assume that terrace overlooking the pool and the surrounding the Quarters would get the award and me a topic hills. The lady of the house brought us bath- to write about. robes with the monogram of the Golija Quarters embroidered on it. It is a really beautiful, tiny MORE STUNNING THAN ON PHOTOGRAPHS detail, a barely noticeable brush stroke that com- The garden is split in half by a brook. It is deco- We started our journey with an already formed pletes the harmony on the big canvas. When I look rated with stones, flowers, a windmill model, and image. The website images of the Golija Quarters at the Golija Quarters as a picture, with the main an arched wooden bridge. On a sunny boulder in are impressionable: mountain houses decorated composition, I would single out another detail, a the middle of the brook, I noticed a tiny green fluo- with flowers, verdure and the blue swimming small universe that gave me great joy. rescent frog. My hosts said that it was living there A happy frog from Golija for a long time and that they started thinking of it as of a family member and a lucky omen. The frog spent the whole day in the sun. This pretty little creature appealed to me. I went to search for it the day after and barely managed to find it. It hid in the shadow and spent the day in water. Motionless and visibly content, the frog from Golija spent one day sunbathing and the other bathing. I decided to follow its example, halt the exhausting stream of thoughts and just be at this wonderful place.

A GOLIJA EXPEDITION

At the Tourist Organisation of Ivanjica we got a detailed guidebook for the city and the surrounding area. I had no idea that this area had so many tourist signposts. Arilje direction, Javor and Nova Varoš direction, Studenica direction... Taking into

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013 55 consideration that the Quarters are located at the family house was full of guests. They are the peo- very bottom of Golija, the signboard with their ple who like mountaineering, mushroom hunting, name was, logically, our first choice. Walking up riding along forest tracks, skiing in the winter. Our the stream of the Moravica River, we ran into the host joins us and gives us a detailed mountaineer- Roman Bridge (medieval arched stone bridge) and ing map. Horse d’oeuvre is the goat cheese, their an extraordinary beautiful ethno-house called “SUR homemade product. We talk as if we have known Ljubav” (Love). Another thing that makes this place each other for years. Has this climate made those unusual is the fact that it was built by the owner of people so open, direct and warm? Our hosts are the coffee shop “Bankrot” (Bankruptcy) from Ivanjica like that, the owner of the raspberry refrigerator car as a resting place. This “restaurant” has no waiters. who we met by accident is the same and so were You enter the kitchen, open the fridge, help your- the grandfather and the grandson who showed us self with a drink, take a break on the bank of the the way when we got lost in the forests of Golija. Moravica, and you leave the money or miss to do so. Is there a place like this anywhere else? AT DRAŠKO AND JACA’S Walking turned into climbing. We headed towards I was never a fan of big hotels and resorts. Dajić Lake, the centre of the first biosphere reserve in The service is unrivalled; comfort is guaranteed, the world! I regretted I wasn’t a biologist who, in the standards well known. That concept of vacation world of a giant spruce forest, would be able to rec- has its advantages, but the factor of “unique- ognise those curious creatures because of which this ness” is missing, the people are missing... I place is under UNESCO’s protection. Along the way, don’t know how, but our hosts know when we also discovered Okruglica Lake on a hill offering the right time for everything is. They serve us an incredible panoramic view. Golija is massive, apples and pears, coffee and honey, offer us immense. The meadows surrounding the lake are with brandy and sit with as for chitchat. Little covered with high, tender grass and strange violet by little we start sharing our life stories and bells. With the blowing wind, the scenery started views and we become interested in each other. moving too. We became a part of this beauty. I realised how attached I became after naming the folder with the Golija Quarters photographs A POOL WITH A VIEW, PEOPLE WITH as “At Draško and Jaca’s”. It contains the pho- WARM HEARTS tographs of Draško and Jaca’s sons Veljko and The Avramović pension is included in the list of Vule competing in swimming with immense WINTERTIME IN IVANJICA rural tourist households of Ivanjica. Our Quarters joy, several marvellous dishes Jaca prepared, are located in the village of Komadine, and the an immaculately set dinning table, Draško’s Golija Quarters, Ivanjica Quarters, pen- Avramović pension is in the neighbouring village specialty “Roast lamb under the iron pan”, well sions Avramović, Obradović, as well as many of Kumanica. We decide to pay it a visit. The road with a flower bucket, our relaxed and smiling other rural households and complexes in the was very steep, and the beauty and the wonder of faces. The little green frog is there too. Ivanjica end have a versatile offer during win- the sights were increasing with the elevation from While saying goodbye Draško tells us that Golija tertime. Sledding, riding snowmobile at Golija the sea level. We were reaching the end, the edge is even prettier under the snow and that he can and skiing on smaller fields of Bele Vode and of the forest. The road ends here. A beautiful house show us its white vastness on a snowmobile. He Kumanica, with quality accommodation and with an open pool was located on a glade. The promises sledding, scent of firewood, fire in the homemade food, can be part of an interesting ostoji lepota koje se čovek nikada ne zasiti. Ona je ista, a drugačija. view of space and nature from this place is hard to fireplace, and a pleasant company. and invigorating winter vacation for you. Svaki put poznato bliska, a ipak mistična i neuhvatljiva. Ona describe. It cannot be put into words. Mrs. Ljiljana Info: www.ivatourism.org Avramović welcomed us. Coffee, an inevitable shot opušta, odmara, mami i zavodi. Za takvom lepotom čovek of brandy and a relaxed small talk. The Avramović Milena Mihaljčić SELO.RS – OFFER OF SERBIAN neprestano traga. A ako ima sreće – takvoj lepoti se uvek i uporno vraća. Hosts – Jaca and Draško Milosavljević P ETHNO-TOURISM Za početak vam nudimo tek nekoliko slika: Kopaonik, Golija, Goč, Željin,

During the past decade, the villages Stolovi, Pešterska visoravan, Ibar... across the country have seen numer- ous purposely-built ethno-complexes, 72 houses, villas andKOPAONIK, pensions sprouting up. GOLIJA, GOČ, ŽELJIN, STOLOVI Many of them are open all year round and have a variety of amenities on offer during autumn and winter months. The most comprehensive internet portal with an ethno-tourism offer can be found at www.selo.rs

56 Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest TOS PREPORUČUJE-ODMOR U ETNO AMBIJENTIMA

KONAČIŠTE ZA TELO, ODMOR ZA DUŠU

Etno-turizam jedan je od najoriginalnijih turističkih proizvoda Srbije. Za postignuća u različitim oblastima turizma TOS dodeljuje godišnju nagradu „Turistički cvet“. U kategoriji seoskog turizma titulu najboljeg u 2013. godini poneli su „Golijski konaci“, novootvoreni etno-kompleks u selu Komadina nadomak Ivanjice. Slogan „Konačište za telo, odmor za dušu“ pogađa suštinu: udoban smeštaj i sadržaji „Golijskih konaka“ samo su lep okvir za druženje sa raskošnom prirodom i zanimljivim ljudima.

a pres-konferenciji u Turističkoj orga- Javor i Mučanj, manastir Studenica, Uvačka jezera... suština: lepota prostora među brdima, osećaj nizaciji Srbije Ivanjicaostoji je početkom lepota jula kojeNastup se Draška čovek Milosavljevića nikada istinskine zasiti. me širine, Ona unutrašnja je ista, harmonija, a drugačija. pogled na šume i Npredstavila ponuduSvaki za predstojeću put poznato oduševio. Bio bliska,je istovremeno a skroman ipak i sugestivan. mistična zvonik seoskei neuhvatljiva. crkve. Stvarni svet „Golijskih Ona konaka“ sezonu. Među turističkim poslenicima ivanjičkog Poželela sam da tamo provedem odmor. Ispričala nadmašuje virtuelni. kraja bio je Draško Milosavljević,opušta, vlasnik „Golijskih odmara, sam suprugu mami utiske s konferencije,i zavodi. pregledali Za takvomDočekuje nas porodicalepotom Milosavljević čovek u punom konaka“, koji se novinarima obratio sasvim smo internet-prezentaciju i odlučili da otkažemo neuobičajenoneprestano za ovakve prilike: „Po zanimanju traga. sam A akoveć rezervisani ima aranžmansreće i– letujemo takvoj u „Golijskim lepoti seRODNO uvek MESTO i uporno SEOSKOG TURIZMA vraća. stolar. Sve štoP vidite napravio sam svojim rukama. konacima“. Tada nisam ni pretpostavljala da će U selima u okolini Ivanjice ruralni turizam Ne bih u tomeZa uspeo početak bez podrške moje vam porodice, nudimo „Konaci“ tek dobiti nekoliko nagradu, a ja temu slika: za pisanje. Kopaonik, razvija Golija, se više od Goč,četiri decenije. Željin, Pored pre svega moje supruge.“ Potom je predstavio kom- „Golijskih konaka“ i pomenutog pansiona pleks: dve modernoStolovi, opremljene Pešterska planinske kuće, visoravan, LEPŠE NEGO NAIbar... FOTOGRAFIJAMA „Avramović“, poznat je i pansion „Obradović“ koje se zovu „Golija 1“ i „Golija 2“, etno-restoran Na putovanje krećemo sa unapred oblikovanom iz sela Katići. Obradovići su 2005. godine „Krčma“, dva bungalova, otvoreni bazen, igraonica predstavom. Slike „Golijskih konaka“ na internetu takođe dobili „Turistički cvet“. Treba pome- 72 KOPAONIK, GOLIJA,i parkić za decu, domaća GOČ,hrana... Cene pristupačne. ŽELJIN, su upečatljive: planinske kućeSTOLOVI dekorisane cvećem, nuti i novootvorene „Ivanjičke konake“, koji „Golijski konaci“ izgledaju veoma privlačno. zelenilo i u njemu plavo oko bazena... Kada smo po sadržajima i lepoti ambijenta na zaostaju Mesto na kojem su podignuti, u podnožju parka posle tri sata lagane vožnje od Beograda stigli za „Golijskim konacima“. Kompletna ponu- prirode Golija, poznato je po lekovitom vazduhu. na kapiju „Golijskih konaka“, utisak je bio snažan, da seoskog turizma objavljuje se na sajtu Nadmorska visina idealna. Mnoštvo mogućnosti za a mi iznenađeni. Predstave ponete iz virtuelnog Turističke organizacije Ivanjice: istraživanje i kratke izlete – Ivanjica, Golija, planine sveta bile su verodostojne, ali im je nedostajala www.ivatourism.org

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013 57 sastavu: Draško, njegova supruga Jaca, sinovi peškire i bade mantile sa izvezenim monogramom primer, zaustavim umarajući protok misli i samo Veljko i Vukašin. Uz kafu i domaću rakiju od „Golijskih konaka“. To je zaista lep, majušan detalj, postojim na ovom predivnom mestu. malina lagano ulazimo u svet koji su svojim radom onaj jedva primetan potez četkicom koji upotpun- i maštom stvorili ovi mladi ljudi. „S gradnjom smo juje harmoniju velikog platna. Kada „Golijske kon- POHOD NA GOLIJU počeli sasvim slučajno. Supruga i ja smo rešili da ake“ posmatram kao sliku, uz glavnu kompoziciju, U Turističkoj organizaciji Ivanjice dobili smo ovde, na imanju moje majke, napravimo vikendicu. izdvojila bih još jedan detalj, jedan mali kosmos, koji detaljan vodič kroz grad i okolinu. Nisam ni Tek kasnije prepoznao sam prostor na kojem bih mi je pričinio veliku radost. pretpostavljala da ovaj kraj ima toliko turističkih mogao da izgradim još mnogo toga. I tako smo Sredinom dvorišta teče potok. Dekorisan je putokaza. Pravac ka Arilju, pravac ka Javoru i došli do ovoga što sada vidite.“ Milosavljevići su kamenom, cvećem, maketom vodenice, lučnim Novoj Varoši, pravac ka Studenici... Budući da se nadovezali na višedecenijisku tradiciju seoskog drvenim mostom. Na jednom osunčanom oblutku su „Konaci“ u samom podnožju Golije, odabrali turizma u ivanjičkom kraju, obišli uspešne etno- posred potoka primetila sam sićušnog fluorescent- smo taj putokaz kao prvi i logičan izbor. Pešačeći komplekse širom Srbije, dobili prave savete od no zelenog žapca. Domaćini su mi rekli da on već uz tok reke Moravice naišli smo na Rimski most stručnjaka Turističke organizacije Ivanjice. Ovo im dugo tu živi, da ga smatraju za člana porodice i (srednjovekovni kameni lučni most) i neobično je prva sezona. srećno znamenje. Žabac se čitav dan nije pomakao lepu etno-kuću „SUR Ljubav“. To je nesvakidašnje sa sunca. Dopalo mi se to lepo malo stvorenje. mesto i po tome što ga je, za predah, napravio ŽABAC KOJI MEDITIRA Sutradan sam ga tražila i jedva ga pronašla. Sakrio vlasnik kafe-restorana „Bankrot“ iz Ivanjice. U toj Smeštamo se u jedan od bungalova. Uz lepo se u senku i dan proveo u vodi. Nepomičan i vidno „ugostiteljskoj radnji“ nema konobara. Uđete u opremljenu sobu i kupatilo, imamo i terasu s pogle- zadovoljan, golijski žabac se jedan dan sunčao, kuhinju, otvorite frižider, poslužite se pićem, pre- dom na bazen i okolna brda. Domaćica nam donosi drugi dan kupao. Rešila sam da sledim njegov dahnete na obali Moravice, ostavite ili ne ostavite

58 Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest novac. Da li toga još negde ima? ne bi bila prava. Dočekuje nas Ljiljana kafu i slatko, ponude raki- Pešačenje se pretvara u planinarenje. Uputili Avramović. Kafa, obavezna čašica jicu, sednu s nama na smo se ka Dajićkom jezeru, srcu prvog rezer- rakije i razgovor koji jednostavno „čašicu razgovora“. Malo vata biosfere na svetu! Žalim što nisam biolog teče. Avramovići imaju punu kuću pomalo, počinjemo da koji bi u svetu gorostasne smrčeve šume umeo gostiju. To su ljudi koji vole planin- delimo naše životne priče da prepozna ta retka bića zbog kojih je ovo arenje, gljivarenje, jahanje šumskim i stavove, postajemo zain- mesto pod zaštitom Uneska. Otkrivamo i jezero stazama, zimi skijanje. Pridružuje nam teresovani jedni za druge. Okruglicu na uzvišenju sa kojeg se pruža nev- se i domaćin i poklanja nam detaljnu Shvatila sam da su mi postali erovatan panoramski pogled. Golija je ogromna, planinarsku mapu. Mezimo kozji sir, koji je bliski kada sam folder s fotografi- nepregledna. Livade oko jezera obrasle su viso- njihov domaći proizvod. Razgovaramo kao da se jama „Golijskih konaka“ nazvala „Kod kom, nežnom travom i neobičnim ljubičastim već dugo poznajemo. Da li je ovo podneblje stvorilo tako Draška i Jace“. U njemu su fotografije Draškovih zvončićima. Duva vetar i prizor se pokreće. otvorene, otresite i tople ljude? I naši domaćini su takvi, i Jacinih sinova Veljka i Vuleta, koji se s neizmer- Postajemo deo ove lepote. i vlasnik hladnjače malina kojeg smo slučajno upoznali, nom radošću takmiče u plivanju, nekoliko Jacinih i deda i unuk koji su nam pokazali put kada smo zalutali kulinarskih čarolija, besprekorno postavljen sto, BAZEN S POGLEDOM, LJUDI S TOPLINOM u golijskim šumama. Draškov specijalitet „jaretina ispod sača“, bunar sa Na listu seoskih turističkih domaćinstava Ivanjice vedrom cveća, naša nasmejana i opuštena lica. Tu upisan je pansion „Avramović“. Naši „Konaci“ nalaze se KOD DRAŠKA I JACE je i mali zeleni žabac. u selu Komadine, a Avramovići su u susednoj Kumanici. Nikada baš nisam bila ljubitelj velikih hotela i Na rastanku Draško nam kaže da je Golija još Odlučujemo da ih posetimo. Put je izrazito strm, a rizorta. Usluga je bez premca, udobnost je garan- lepša pod snegom i da nam njena bela pros- prizori okoline sa sve većom nadmorskom visinom tovana, standardi poznati. Takav koncept odmora transtva može pokazati na motornim sankama. postaju lepši i nestvarniji. Stižemo do kraja, do ivice ima svojih prednosti, ali mu nedostaje „faktor Obećava nam i sankanje, miris drveta, vatru u šume. Put se tu završava. Na proplanku je lepa kuća sa posebnosti“, nedostaju mu ljudi... Ne znam kako, kaminu, lepo druženje. otvorenim bazenom. Pogled s tog vidikovca na pros- ali naši domaćini znaju u svemu da pogode pravi transtvo i prirodu ne može da se opiše. Nijedna reč trenutak. Iznesu nam jabuke i kruške, posluže Milena Mihaljčić

Mural – Rest area „Love“ on the Moravica river

ZIMA U IVANJICI

„Golijski konaci”, „Ivanjički konaci”, pansioni „Avramović”, „Obradović”, kao i mnogi druga seoska domaćinstva i kompleksi u ivanjičkom kraju imaju raznovrsne sadržaje zimske ponude. Sankanje, vožnja motornim sankama po Goliji i skijanje na manjim terenima Belih voda i Kumanice, uz kvalitetan smeštaj i domaću hranu, mogu vam pružiti zanimljiv i okrepljujući zimski odmor. Info: www.ivatourism.org

SELO.RS - PONUDA ETNO TURIZMA SRBIJE

U poslednjoj deceniji u selima širom zemlje nikli su brojni namenski građeni etno-kompleksi, kuće za odmor, vile, pansioni. Mnogi od njih rade cele godine i imaju raznovrsnu ponudu tokom jesenjih i zimskih meseci. Najobuhvatniji internet portal s ponudom etno-turizma nalazi se na adresi: www. selo.rs

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