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Planet Bordeaux because you shouldn't Bordeaux & Bordeaux Supérieur Regional Guerra Research Review Appellations Featured at Annual Conference Evaluation of the Consistency of Wine Quality 06 Assessments From Expert Wine Tasters have to wait until the fall by Paul Wagner 14 to make great wine... by Bibiana Guerra Travel to Taiwan A Visit to Taiwan’s Pioneering 21 to Watch 08 and Winery by Ellen Landis by Bill Wilen, D.Ed. 16

Home Winemaking New or Noteworthy Don't Lose Your Marbles - by Jim Rink 11 Keep Them For Your Home Winemaking 19 by Ian Hugh Scott

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americanwinesociety.org SPRING 2011 • 03

S0063_MMWine_winemaker_Ad.indd 1 10/1/2007, 8:58 PM EDITOR'S Founder Konstantin Frank

The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. AWS National Officers and Board of Directors A non-profit group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of VOLUME 43 NO. 1 · SPRING 2011 wine. Its members include wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and President Treasurer Director of professional winemakers, chefs, wine appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs Willis Parker Samuel D. Streiff Member Services and anyone wanting to learn more about wine and gastronomy. Nick Yankanich Message Published by Vice President Director of The American Wine Society, Jane Duralia Educational Services Executive Director & Information Technology John Hames a non-profit corporation, AWS Activities Secretary Peter J. Cisek Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, Joe Broski The first measureable snow of the season has fallen and even Christmas carols on the PO Box 279, Englewood, OH 45322 AWS Chapters: Director of Competitions Single copies $5.00. Copyright © 2011 by usually monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery radio don’t soften the hard truth that I can no longer wear my slippers to go to the Lynne Montgomery AWS, Inc. Reproduction or use of the editorial tours, winemaking and cooking demonstrations, conferences, amateur mailbox. I could, however, wear my slippers in the winery, but that is a different story. or pictorial content without written permission wine-judging events, and other wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and Past Presidents novices have nothing to fear. Chapters are self-supporting, so expect a nominal is prohibited. Library of Congress Class 1967–70 1989–1990 2001 charge to attend a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local chapter does not exist in your Number: TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900 Albery W. Laubengayer Alton L. Long Pamela J. Davey area, national will be glad to assist in forming a chapter. AWS furnishes a chapter I’m guessing that many home winemakers have “lost their marbles” trying to create the 1971–72 1991 2002 Publisher manual, suggested meeting topics, and access to speakers and reference material. Robert A. Dickmann Stephen R. Kampers William H. Eisberg perfect wine. But how many have actually used their marbles? Ian Scott has. In this All that is needed are a few interested wine lovers. Meeting can be informal and John Hames 1973–74 1992 2003 held in member’ homes or in other settings, such as restaurants and wineries. J. Randy Hurteau issue, he provides some helpful tips on how to manage additives, yes, using marbles. Carl W. Damoth Frank C. Aquilino Editor 1975–76 1993 2004 Jim Rink AWS Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide Jerry S. Miller Alcide L. Porrell Willis L. Parker wine judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics 1994 For those of you looking for something completely different, wine writer Ellen Landis 1977–78 2005 Contributing Writers and dinners. Kathryn Froelich George E. Wilson Tom Castronovo is back with new and refreshing recommendations on “21 Wines to Watch.” This well- Bibiana Guerra, Ellen Landis, 1979–1980 1995 2006 Kenneth P. Brewer Jim Rink, Paul Wagner, AWS National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national Joseph P. Nardone Janice Cobett researched list presents a great opportunity for AWS chapters looking for new wines 1996 Bill Wilen, D. Ed., Ian Hugh Scott conference and extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that 1981–1982 2007 has drawn wine-lovers, winemakers and gastronomes together every November Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. to highlight at group gatherings. And, since not everyone was able to attend this year’s David Falchek John M. Hasson Albert L. Guber, Jr. for over 40 years. Prominent American and international speakers conduct 1983–1984 1997 2008 Eugene J. Spaziani conference in Cincinnati, we offer articles that summarize two of this year’s sessions: Editorial Office seminars and lectures on all aspects of wine appreciation, wine production, grape Michael A. Farren Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. growing and cuisine. Members experience fine food at connoisseur luncheons and 1998 2009 Planet Bordeaux and Wines of Navarra. Jim Rink 1985–1986 dinners, tastings of hundreds of wines and royal treatment by the finest American Lewis H. France, Jr. Gary C. Pavlis Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. 2881 S. Lake Leelanau Drive 1999 hotels and resorts. The annual conference brings professionals, serious amateurs 1987–1988 2010 Lake Leelanau, MI 49653 and novices together to discover what is new in wine. Thomas C. Iezzi, Jr. Gayle M. Darugh Willis L. Parker The Journal wouldn’t be the Journal without at least one travel piece – this time up it’s [email protected] 2000 Charles E. Hastings Taiwan, as seen from the eyes of Bill Wilen, an AWS certified wine judge, wine educator Unsolicited manuscripts or other and amateur winemaker. Although Taiwan is no Napa Valley, there are some serious information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. pioneers in the wine industry there – and, well, where would be without our pioneers?  I want to join the AWS  I want to give an AWS Gift Membership to: Become a Advertising Office PO Box 279 Last Name First Name Middle Initial Beginning with the next issue of the Journal, we would like to feature photos taken of Englewood, OH 45322 our members while they were visiting wineries or here or abroad. To submit 888-AWS-9070 Street Address City/State/Zip Code your photo and cutline, contact me at [email protected] (high resolution pics (fax) 937.529.7888 executivedirector@americanwinesociety. Phone E-mail Complete and please, in focus. Please contact our creative firm at [email protected] with any Member org This Gift Membership is from: Mail With Your questions). And if you want to wear your slippers to go to the mailbox, go right ahead. Creative | Production Payment To: Last Name First Name Middle Initial Stay warm, Porter Design, Inc. American Wine Society 1340 Chandler Road Street Address City/State/Zip Code Lawrenceville, GA 30046 PO Box 279 | Englewood, OH 45322 Phone E-mail Jim Rink Phone: 404.925.2677 888-AWS-9070 | (fax) 937.529.7888 [email protected] Check Membership type: Method of Payment: Editor www.porterdesign.com E-mail: [email protected]  Check/Money Order [email protected]  Individual $49.00 (payable to AWS)  Visa  Mastercard AWS Member Benefits Include:  Household (2 family members-same address) $62.00  American Express  Discover » Participation in local chapter » Technical manuals, bulletins and  Professional $85.00 (includes plaque) activities vintage charts  Lifetime $950.00 Account No. » Participation in local, regional » Wine Judge Certification Program and national events » National Wine Tasting Project www.americanwinesociety.org  Student (21–25 years) $25.00 » Membership card and certificate » AWS-sponsored trips Expiration Date » American Wine Society » Winemaking competitions NOTE: Payment must be made in U.S. dollars. For Canada » AWS Educational Foundation and other non-US countries, add $5 for postage. Cardholder’s Signature 04 • AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY WINE JOURNAL americanwinesociety.org » Bi-monthly AWS News several generations. A blend of 50 percent The last two wines were both Bordeaux Cabernet Sauvignon, 35 percent Merlot Supérieur Rouge, which, thanks to and 15 percent Cabernet Franc, it was strict regulations in the vineyards and nicely balanced, medium-bodied, it had cellar (lower yields, increased foliage great, round tannins and wonderful acid- surface, barrel ageing), the wines of- ity. Made in a classic style, with earthy to- fer more complexity and structure. It bacco notes and red fruits, it was a perfect was a great honor to have Xavier Mil- introduction to Bordeaux reds. hade present his own 2006 Château Recougne, a blend of 75 percent Mer- At Château de Lagarde, winemaker lot, 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon Lionel Raymond’s vineyards are or- and 10 percent Cabernet Franc, which By Paul Wagner ganic, and the winery employs many showed a nose with appealing ripe, red energy-conserving and ecologically fruits and a mineral element. On the friendly practices throughout produc- palate, the wine was medium to full- Bordeaux & Bordeaux Supérieur Regional tion. Made with organic grapes, the bodied, layers of rich flavors – plums, 2007 L de Lagarde, with 60 percent cherries and black currant – with fine, Renie Steves, a wine journalist from Fort Worth, Appellations Featured at Annual Conference Merlot, 30 percent Cabernet Sauvi- firm tannins that gave structure, bal- Texas, enjoys a glass of Bordeaux wine gnon and 10 percent Cabernet Franc, ance and ageability. was very perfumed, full of black plum hade announced the prices of these and black currant flavors, with well- The final wine was the L’Huillier fami- wines, ranging from $15 to $25 a There’s no doubt about it: the highlight wine producers and their families, lo- 2009 Château Lamothe de Haux Bor- integrated fruit and acidity. ly’s 2005 Château Fleur Haut Gaussens. bottle. The Bordeaux tasting led to a of this year’s annual conference was the cal cuisine, bed & breakfasts in charm- deaux Blanc, in which the character of This estate is situated in the village of delicious buffet lunch that was paired plenary session tasting organized by ing medieval villages, and the art de the Sauvignon Blanc was more notice- Maison Sichel's Sirius allowed Xavier Verac on the Right Bank. Having been to complement these delightful, food- Planet Bordeaux. Wonderfully led by vivre in this most famous of wine cities. able with a blend of 40 percent Sauvi- Milhade to explain the important his- honored with the Best Bordeaux award friendly wines. But before the lunch, Xavier Mihade, owner of Château Re- gnon Blanc, 40 percent Sémillon and toric role of the wine merchant, or by French wine magazine "La Revue the crowd first responded with a stand- cougne, and Bordeaux-based American, The tasting began with a 2009 Châ- 20 percent Muscadelle. Château La- négociant, in Bordeaux. Named after ing ovation for Xavier, Jana, and Paul teau de la Vieille Tour Bordeaux Blanc. du Vin de France," this is one château Jana Kravitz of Vin’Animus, the tasting mothe has belonged to the same fam- the brightest star in the solar system, worth watching. With a blend of 90 – and, of course, the wonderful wines covered eight wines from the world’s It was Eleanor of Aquitaine who or- ily for three generations – and has had Sirius combines an excellent under- of Planet Bordeaux. N dered the first vines to be planted here percent Merlot, 5 percent Cabernet wine capital, and provided a great selec- women winemakers at the helm! This standing of terroir with real expertise Sauvignon and 5 percent Cabernet tion of both wines and wine styles. in 1150, and the Pierre Boissonneau is a wine with elegant notes of sweet in the craft of winemaking. Deep, bril- family has now owned this vineyard Franc, there were loads of bright fruit, ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Meyer lemon, tangerine blossoms and liant purple color with mature black with strawberry, blackberry and va- But this was no dry, academic tasting. for four generations. Blended with 60 silky minerals. fruits and a pronounced tannin struc- Paul Wagner is President of Balzac Moderated by Paul Wagner, the tasting percent Sauvignon Blanc, 30 percent nilla. It was full-bodied with silky tan- ture, the 2005 Sirius, with 55 percent nins and a medium finish. Communications & Marketing in provided a lively discussion of wine, Sémillon and 10 percent Muscadelle, For a real change of pace, the next Merlot and 45 percent Cabernet Sau- Napa Valley, CA. food, and life in the Bordeaux region. it was a bright and playful wine with wine was the fresh and delicious 2009 vignon, combined elegance, finesse, It was a grand tasting, and a great se- Xavier and Jana gave a delightful sense a juicy medium body, moderate citrus Mayne Sansac Bordeaux Rosé, blended and character. lection of wines. And there was even of what it is to live in Bordeaux wine and specks of acacia flower and fruit. with 80 percent Merlot and 20 percent more enthusiasm when Xavier Mil country, and shared stories about the As a contrast, the second wine was the Cabernet Sauvignon. This young wine had a vibrant, deep pink color, with a One of Château Recougne’s many picturesque vineyards Château Recougne's cellar subtle, elegant nose revealing aromas of red fruits, including cherry and raspberry. The aromatic profile is com- plex, reflecting the red fruit flavors found in the nose and finishing on an attractive black currant note. The next five wines were all reds, three Bor- deaux AOCs and two Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs, each revealing their winemakers’ style and vintage variation.

The first of the three Bordeaux Rouge was the 2007 Château Ballan-Larquette, which has been in the Chaigne family for

06 • AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY WINE JOURNAL americanwinesociety.org americanwinesociety.org SPRING 2011 • 07 We walked through the wine production building noticing several large stainless steel fermenters and the usual crusher/ de-stemmer, filtering and bottling ma- chines. I was allowed to walk through the wine laboratory and saw some famil- iar testing equipment. By Bill Wilen, D.Ed. Afterwards we went to the tasting room and our guide led us through a tasting of A Visit to Taiwan’s Pioneering Vineyard and Winery six of the nine different styles of wines and liqueurs they produce. All the wines were non-vintage and served in very Taiwan has a wine industry and it is the Thanksgiving – New Year holiday they were making wine from primar- small shot glasses. Our first was a Golden growing slow but sure, but you would season. The latitude for central Taiwan ily two varieties of wine grapes – Black Mrs. Hung inspecting the grapes from Shu-Sheng Domaine Muscat made in a dry style at 12 percent never know it from the literature avail- crosses southern China, central India, Queen, an imported Japanese hybrid, alcohol. It was light straw in color, had able to us in the United States. Origi- northern Africa and northern Mexico. A and Golden Muscat that they imported Paul Frank interviewed Mr. Hung at Shortly after I expressed my interest in minimal nose but had a very good Mus- nally, I was not sure what to expect in search of the internet (www.taiwanfun. from the “Americas.” Shu-Sheng and reported on the vine- visiting Domaine Shu-Sheng, my host cat taste. Too bad it was slightly harsh terms of Taiwan’s wine industry because com) produced information on seven yard’s ups and downs over a 50-year and departmental chair invited my wife in the finish. Next was another Golden Both varieties were first imported in the I was not able to find any mention of vineyards located in the central part of period. They sold grapes to the Tobacco and I to visit this pioneering vineyard Muscat called “Ice Mode,” which is their 1950s by the winemaker at Shu-Sheng, Taiwan’s vineyards in the more authori- the island where we were located – Tai- and Wine Monopoly Bureau, now the and winery, which was only 45 minutes style of ice wine; it comes in the tall ice who is the grandfather of today’s wine- tative books I have come to depend chung and Nantou counties. I read in Taiwan Tobacco and Liquor Corpora- away. So off we went to learn first hand. wine style bottle (375ml) that we have maker, Hung Chi-pei; he represents the on when preparing to do some foreign the brief descriptions of wine products tion (TTL), until the mid-nineties when When we arrived we were greeted by an in northern Ohio for our Vidal Ice Wine. 4th generation of winemakers at Shu- travel and taste indigenous wines. While from five of the vineyards: “48-proof li- it stopped buying. Most of the vineyard associate who was responsible for pro- It too had minimal nose but was quite Sheng. Now my interest was piqued be- I did find information on Chinese vine- tchi wine…” “…made from Taiwanese was converted into an orange and tanger- viding a tour through the vineyard and flavorful and sweet (we were told there cause, although Black Queen was a new yards and wines, there was absolutely onions or chives…” “…it is distilled ine farm and Hung tried making a living the cellar, and conducting a tasting in was 18 percent residual sugar). The label variety to me, I knew of Muscat’s po- no mention of Taiwan in the current three times, resulting in a clear plum with other odd jobs including running a their tasting room and modern gift shop. indicated that it was at 10 percent alco- tential since, as an amateur winemaker, editions of books by well-known wine liqueur…” “…produces six types of karaoke bar and a betel nut stand, until We met the vineyard manager and the hol. It’s most outstanding characteristic I have made it in dry and dessert styles writers - Robert Parker, Jancis Robinson, distinct spirits…” “…sugar cane is the the earthquake in 1999 when Taichung son of the winemaker. was its smoothness. and Tom Stevenson. main ingredient and steeped in specially several times over the years. County was hit hard. selected rose petals…” and “…the win- The most obvious difference between I had read in Paul Franks’ article about One of many Buddha shrines throughout Taiwan When my wife and I arrived in Tai- ery uses tangerines in the fermentation Within a couple of years it was realized Shu-Sheng and vineyards in our country how, because it never freezes in this chung, Taiwan, to start my semester that the area could recover and the fruit was that the vines were all trellised about process” (Cheng, 2004). The impression A creative entrance to Shu-Sheng winery of graduate teaching in social studies I was getting was that locally produced industry could be revitalized if it con- six feet above the ground and completely education at National Taichung Uni- sweet fruit wines and distilled spirits verted to grape growing and winemak- covered with permanent netting. Since I versity as a visiting professor, we slowly were what they could make here in this ing. One positive characteristic that they couldn’t get an answer on the reason for became acclimated to the wine culture difficult climate and what the people could capitalize on is that the soil is san- the trellising, I assumed it was to give here by tasting a variety of Taiwanese were willing to buy. I needed more in- dy and therefore, relatively well-drained. the vines maximum sun exposure and grape wines. They were mostly sweet. formation than just impressions and I The vineyard “got a new lease on life” af- create airflow through all the vines to re- One problem we had was that it was realized I could only get it by visiting ter Hung became re-educated about how duce the possibility of fungus and molds nearly impossible to translate the Chi- a grape vineyard/winery and talking to young vines could be grafted onto the in a very humid climate. We have since nese on the labels to know what we were people with the help of translation. old ones, some of which were still in the noticed at other vineyards workers pick- drinking. I was able to soak off some old vineyard, learning how to become a ing the grapes while standing on pails labels and have them translated but not Then I read about Shu- winemaker and manager by taking some so they are almost the right height for enough to generalize accurately. We Sheng Domaine in Houli winemaking courses, and securing loans the job. We were told that birds were the did understand alcohol percentage and and that it was Taiwan’s from the government to buy equipment reason for the protective netting. So we realized that many were distilled wines. first privately owned grape (Frank, 2007). According to the Taipei walked in the vineyard under the vines. wine estate and first grape Times (July 10, 2003), five other “tour- Our second surprise was finding out Central Taiwan is sub-tropical which vineyard. The fairly recent ist vineyards” were also founded in the how busy they were because they have translates into hot and humid for most article at www.taiwan- earthquake zone and started commercial several harvests a year – table grapes are of the year although it is a little cooler panorama.com by Paul operations in 2003. harvested three times per year; Black and much less humid as we are enjoying Frank (2007) said that Queen, twice; and Golden Muscat, once.

08 08 • •AMERICAN AMERICAN WINE WINE SOCIETY SOCIETY WINE WINE JOURNAL JOURNAL americanwinesociety.org americanwinesociety.org SPRING 2011 • 09 a 375ml bottle. It was delicious. We pay off because there is potential for grapes Don't Lose Your Marbles - were told that coffee was added to Black such as Black Queen, Golden Muscat, Queen and fortified to 18 percent alco- and perhaps Jufeng, to produce quality hol – it tasted like iced coffee with a kick. wine. Given the sub-tropical climate and Keep Them For Your Home Winemaking The label said that the “Mandheling cof- the current taste of the Taiwanese people fee bean” was used in the production. it looks like semi-dry to sweet grape, fruit, “Marbles for home winemaking?” you wine at home with some imagination test fishing line works well, and you will My wife thought it tasted like a brandy and fortified wines and distilled spirits will ask. "What on earth would marbles have using cheese cloth, thread and needle. still have a tight fit for your bung and Alexander. Our final wine was Bacchus remain on the agenda for the immediate to do with making wine?" Well, marbles For the carboy that has a small open- airlock assembly. and it is their distilled wine at 40 percent future. Paul Frank concluded his interview The shop at the Shu-Sheng winery certainly won't impart any flavors to ing, you'll of course want to make or alcohol and also served in the 375ml with Hung, “The four generations of Shu- your wine (unless of course you have not purchase smaller bags that will easily fit Marbles can also useful after you have area of Taiwan, the winemaker puts bottle. It was Golden Muscat – sweet Sheng winemakers are mindful of their sanitized them first - and that would be a through the mouth of the carboy when racked your wine from one fermenta- the Golden Muscat grapes in a freezer but very strong like brandy. Its bite was many blessings, have deep roots in their bad thing), but marbles can come in very you want to remove it. If you're plan- tion vessel to another. Sometimes, when to allow them to “hibernate” for about such that I didn’t finish my mini-shot land and culture, and are discovering ever- handy. Marbles don't seem to be as popu- ning on using oak cubes, consider that it trying to avoid siphoning the sediment a month. Then, upon pressing, 30 per- glass amount. new delights” (Frank, 2007). Maybe in lar in the school playgrounds as they were will be easier to remove a bag with oak from the bottom, you’ll lose a small cent of the frozen water is eliminated five to 10 years we need to return and see when I was in grade two, but we used to cubes the closer the width of the bag is quantity of wine and end up with too What a fascinating experience – hav- allowing the sugar to concentrate mak- if other vineyards and wineries have con- have fun with both the large and small to the size of the cubes. Pulling a bag out much head space (officially referred ing mostly non-traditional wines and ing them sweeter. I thought this was an tinued the pioneering spirit and to explore size marbles. Both sizes can be very handy through a small opening, even though to as ullage). When this occurs, home liqueurs at a pioneering grape vineyard example of “necessity is the mother of new directions in grape wine production. in your winemaking endeavors. you managed to squeeze them in, will be winemakers are often told to “top off” in Taiwan! When I think of pioneers in invention.” We then switched to the red much more difficult when the cubes all the wine to decrease the head space be- Ohio’s wine industry I think of Arnie Bill Wilen is an AWS certified wine judge, Black Queen wine called “Enjoy” for our tween the carboy opening and the top Esterer of Markko Vineyards, who was wine educator and amateur winemaker. He third wine. It was medium red and sweet of the wine. Topping off with the same the first to successfully to grow vinifera has earned numerous awards for his wines in with a little spiciness, at 12 percent alco- style of wine is preferred when this hap- grapes. He learned from another pioneer, N hol. But, it had very little finish (the la- state, regional and national competitions. pens, but often you might not have any Konstantin Frank, in New York. Where bel indicated that “it tastes slightly sour available. Some wine kits advise to top would we be without pioneers! Today, and bitter”). We were told that “Taiwan- REFERENCES: off with water. What you can also do is Ohio has over 100 vineyards in opera- ese like sweet wine.” use the marbles to displace the air. Don't tion. Afterwards, we were shown some Brochure: Shu-Sheng Domaine. just simply drop your marbles into the of the awards won by the wines with For the fourth wine we had another Black Cheng, Lishea. Savoring the Sweet carboy, though! Use the nylon bag as the main one featured being the Golden Queen but produced in a dry style; it was Taste of Taiwan’s Wines and Liqueurs. described above. As the marbles are sub- Muscat, which had taken a first in a Tai- also at 12 percent. The label said in Eng- Retrieved May 2004 from http://www. merged into the wine, the headspace lish, “It is a brand new wine with fresh wan wine competition. It was clearly our taiwanfun.com will be reduced. As always, be sure to use taste and also full of fragrance. When favorite in this tasting. glass marbles that have been sanitized tasting at the first time, you might find Since visiting Shu-Sheng Domaine, my Frank, Paul. Shu-Sheng Domaine: thoroughly in a sulfite water solution. it sour, but the fragrances of cherry and wife and I have been to three other vine- Four Generations of Winemakers. Re- cranberry will soon come through.” It yards/wineries, neither of which com- Ian Hugh Scott has been making his own was medium red, with some cherries in trieved April 2007 from http://www. pared with the experience and, for the wine for years. As well as wines from com- the nose, semi-dry with a little sugar and, taiwan-panorama.com most part, the quality of the wines we mercially available kits, he has discovered true to what the label said, was slightly had at Shu-Sheng. One exception though, the pleasures of experimenting with other tart, which I suspect was also due to it be- Taichung County Opens High-Quality was a trip we took to Yiquing Ranch and ingredients such as black currants, straw- ing recently bottled. After our initial tast- Vineyards. (July 2003). Taipei Times Winery in Nantou County where we Some winemakers love to make use of bunch up together where the diameter berries, blueberries, and even ginger and ing, our guide gave us each a small berry tasted wine made from the Jufeng grape, additives such as oak cubes, oak chips, or of the carboy is smaller at it's opening. parsnip! Follow along with Ian's regular to taste, which she called “mystery fruit.” NOTES OF THANKS: which is indigenous to Taiwan. It is con- elderberry flowers to their carboys while Once you have your bag, throw in a few home winemaking activities at his blog: We went along with her suggestion and Special note of thanks to Dr. Ya-Hui sidered the other major wine producing their wine is fermenting and/or bulk ag- marbles first (you should test to find out http://homewinery.info/blog. N found the berry had a seed and was very grape along with Black Queen but it was Hsueh for arranging the visit, accom- ing. The problem is, these additives will how many marbles you will need if you tart. She then re-poured the Black Queen also produced in a sweet style. panying us to Shu-Sheng Domaine, float on the top of the wine and much are submersing oak to ensure they sink we just had and, magically, the taste of and her oral translation, and to Chi- of their effectiveness is lost. So what below the surface). Then add your addi- the wine became noticeably sweeter, and So what have we learned about another Yuan Chang for her translation of the can you do to increase the effectiveness tive ingredients. Tie a knot in the top of smoother. Our taste buds had changed! area of the world trying to establish a of your oak or dried elderberry flowers? your bag, and then attach a string that is ARTICLE SOURCE wine brochure of Domaine Shu-Sheng modern wine making industry under very Use your marbles! You can purchase ny- long enough string that can extend from The fifth wine was so totally different http://tinyurl.com/ybgtjlq difficult circumstances? We learned that lon mesh bags in various sizes or you can the top of the submerged bag to hang because it was a coffee liqueur called the efforts of pioneers at Domaine Shu- make your own like others who make outside of the carboy. For this, 10-pound “Mambra Liqueur” which was also from Sheng in Taichung County are starting to

10 • AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY WINE JOURNAL americanwinesociety.org americanwinesociety.org SPRING 2011 • 11 Starting in the foothills of the Pyrenees to the north and through the southern Ebro plains (the region’s vegetable garden), Navarra is dotted with ancient castles and monasteries and home to music and classical theatre festivals. This is a land of adventure, and the Navarra that guests at the American Wine Society Conference got to know.

All of the wines tasted were D.O. Navarra By Paul Wagner – a designation signifying quality in the region. Among the producers who pro- The Wines of Navarra were front and cen- Along with Canterbury, Camino de San- vided wines to the conference were: Bo- ter at the annual conference in Cincin- tiago, or St. James Way, is one of the great dega de Sarria, Bodega Inurrieta, Bodega nati this year. Paul Wagner, President of pilgrimage routes in Europe. This steady Otazu, Bodegas Chivite, Bodegas Marco Balzac Communications & Marketing in traffic of religious visitors from all over Real, Bodegas Castilla de Monjardin, Bo- Napa, gave an in-depth look at the wines Europe gave Navarra exposure to many degas Ochoa, Bodega del Romero, Bo- to a sold out seminar audience of more different cultures and traditions, includ- degas Piedemonte, Bodegas Principe de Award of Merit by David Falchek than 90 AWS members, and then treated ing contact with winemakers in the ma- Viana, Bodega Cirbonera, Bodegas San Martin and Bodegas Campos de Enanzo. the whole conference to a wine and food jor wine regions of France, Germany and Pennsylvania Wine Pioneers Earn 2010 AWS Award of Merit pairing luncheon with dozens of Navarra’s Italy – and this has led to a very innova- Wines are produced from native Spanish fresh and fruity rosados, whites and reds. tive and open-minded approach to wine grapes, Tempranillo and Garnacha, but On Saturday, November 13, 2010, best, wine producer in the Keystone State. After founding Chaddsford in 1982, Lee and in the region. Chaddsford Winery founders Eric and Lee Eric and Lee are a couple in the truest Eric decided they couldn’t afford to be in the During the lunch, the seminar attendees also from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and almost a dozen other va- Miller were awarded the American Wine sense of the word. Their affection for each same place at the same time – there was too were encouraged to share some of the sto- Geographically, Navarra is also a conver- Society's Award of Merit, given annually to other is palpable. much work to do. Long supporters of AWS rieties. These latter grapes were brought ries with their luncheon tables, and they gence of three different climates: 1) the a wine industry professional who has made a efforts, Eric would dutifully schlep off the by the European travelers and have been did that with pleasure. They had heard Atlantic influence from France to the significant contribution to the advancement “Everyone knows me as winemaker,” he said. American Wine Society Conference to make about the region’s importance in Span- northeast, 2) the Mediterranean influence planted in Navarra for centuries – in fact, of American wines. “But Lee has the harder job and what she does a presentation or pour at the Grand Tasting, long before France became a country. makes what I do, and everything else, possible.” leaving Lee behind to mind the store and home. ish history, its centuries of winemaking, from Toro, Ribera del Duero and other and the convergence of European cul- areas of the Castilla y Leon to the west, In this honor, the Millers join an illustrious But the conference session wines are only group of wine industry professionals that Miller didn’t talk about himself. He spoke “All these years I thought it was a great deal tures, climates and traditions that make and 3) Continental influences from more half the story. The other half was the de- Navarra the fascinating wine region that southerly regions such as La Mancha. includes legends such as Mike Grgich, Zelma about why he liked the American Wine until I finally came here,” she said. “Now, I licious wines on the table, which paired Long, and Kent Rosenblum. Society. It recognizes winemakers. Its see people eating and drinking and making it is today. For those who were not able The region today remains an autono- beautifully with the lunch and charmed the members’ exploration of wine includes friends. And eating and drinking more.” to attend Paul Wagner’s entertaining pre- audience of more than 45O wine lovers! N Of the 500 attendees at the conference, regional wines and wines of unconventional sentations, here are some of his fun and mously ruled kingdom within Spain. Na- varra’s capital, Pamplona, is famous for its Pennsylvanians were well represented. As the grapes such as French-American hybrids. As Lee and Eric were given the award educational facts: room erupted in applause, and the Millers to thunderous applause, tables of festival of San Fermin and the running walked to the dais to receive the award “Thank you for not calling it the Vinifera Pennsylvanians stood up – some raised During the Crusades, Navarra and its of the bulls through the ancient historic ABOUT THE AUTHOR: from AWS President Willis Parker, faces of Wine Society,” he said. “Where would we be glasses to the pair, others fist-pumped. Eric capital, Pamplona, became an important center. San Fermin is a week-long festival Pennsylvanians beamed with even greater without Vidal ice wine? Part of the reason it kissed Lee on the head. N Paul Wagner is President of Balzac gathering point on the pilgrimage route and the city comes alive with hundreds of pride. exists for us today is because of the AWS.” to Santiago de Compostela. Twelfth cen- thousands of people, all celebrating a his- Communications & Marketing in tury guidebooks recommend the wine of tory and shared experience that goes back Napa Valley, CA. The Millers are true pioneers in the eastern Dr. Konstantin Frank, who helped found Reprinted from David Falchek’s Navarra to pilgrims making the journey. more than a thousand years. wine industry. Lee Miller co-founded the AWS, abhorred hybrid grapes and Empty Bottle Wine Blog. In addition Wine East magazine, which served the wine Miller divested of Benmarl because he to his blog, David writes a weekly industry East of the Rocky Mountains. Eric wanted to make vinifera wines. Yet, he wine column for several newspapers Miller’s family founded Benmarl Winery in has produced outstanding wines of white in Pennsylvania, including the Scran- the Hudson Valley. But he and Lee staked a hybrids and spectacular expressions of the ton Times-Tribune. A longtime AWS claim in Chadds Ford to produce European- red Chambourcin. style wines. They made Chaddsford Winery member, David was in attendance at a leader through example, rather than power. “There is so much knowledge and depth in the ceremony where the Millers re- Through quality and innovation, Chaddsford this group where everyone is invited and ceived their award. has become the largest, and arguably the everyone is welcome,” he said.

12 12 • •AMERICAN AMERICAN WINE WINE SOCIETY SOCIETY WINE WINE JOURNAL JOURNAL americanwinesociety.org americanwinesociety.org SPRING 2011 • 13 Evaluation of the consistency of wine quality than for a white wine. The authors attribute 4) Changes in assessor AWS WINE JOURNAL this difference to the possibility that, in red consistency over time. GUERRA assessments from expert wine tasters wines, the judges may have used visual color Since this study spanned 15 years, it would be RESEARCH REVIEW By Bibiana Guerra as a cue to quality. Color intensity has previ- conceivable that the ability of the judges to give ously been shown to correlate well with flavor quality scores might have changed over time. and other positive characteristics of wine. When the authors tested this, they could see Food and beverage quality has been defined should first be able to demonstrate her/his The judges scored the wines for “overall that no systematic change in performance had as “the ability of a set of inherent character- ability to reproduce a quality score when as- quality” using a 20-point scale. In arriving 2) Ability of individual assessors taken place. [Does this mean that the average istics of a product to fulfill the requirements sessing the same wine several times. The goal at this score, judges were allowed to weigh to discriminate wines. quality of Australian wine has been stagnant of customers.” Evaluation of wine quality is of this study was to find out if expert tasters the different aspects of wine quality in any By comparing the intra-wine and inter-wine for the last 15 years? Alternatively, an improve- normally undertaken by “wine experts” - tast- could indeed do that. way that they considered fit. Once the data score variability, the authors noticed that 64 ment in high-end categories may have been off- ers whose experience and training allows them was collected, the authors used a variety of percent of the judges discriminated among set by the emergence of low price-point brands. to evaluate whether defects are present and The authors collected wine quality score data sophisticated statistical analyses to evaluate: red wines better than they did among white We don’t have enough information]. whether the wine typifies the variety, region, from 571 wine experts over a period of 15 1) each individual wine expert’s consistency, wines. Overall, these results indicated that the or style intended. But, as the authors note, years. (The experts were participants in an 2) the individual wine expert’s ability to dis- majority of the judges achieved a consistent In conclusion, when judging “overall quality” this is no guarantee that individual experts “Advanced Wine Assessment Course” con- criminate wines, 3) intra-panel consistency scoring pattern not by scoring all the wines expert tasters were better able to allocate red will weigh the different dimensions of a wine ducted by the Australian Wine Research In- of small groups of 3 experts, 4) the consis- 1) Consistency of individual assessors. in a narrow range, but rather by adequately wines to the same quality category than white in a similar way. stitute). The wine expert demographics were tency between the assessment of red and When the authors measured reliability - or the discriminating among them and giving them wines, and this ability improved by combin- as follows: 75 percent winemakers, 14 percent white wines, and 5) the evolution of a wine “regression coefficient” between both sets of widely different scores. Previous studies have ing the scores of three wine experts. This in- These authors believe that, for a quality score wine traders, 8 percent wine researchers, and expert consistency over time. scores, they found that two thirds of judges suggested that the simultaneous presence of dicates that the common practice of using to start having any value, an expert taster 3 percent wine journalists. As for the wines, showed significant reliability when judging red high reliability and high discrimination char- a small panel of wine experts to judge wine they represented a diverse range of varieties The authors make a distinction that is worth wines, and only half showed significant reli- acterizes an experienced and confident judge. “overall quality’ is well-justified.N

and styles familiar to the group, including mentioning. Even though “reliability,” “con- ability with white wines. When the authors Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, Ries- sistency” and “category agreement” might 3) Consistency of panels of assessors. measured consistency – or the “absolute dif- The authors observed that red wine score con- This summary series funded by J. Lohr ling, and their blends, for all seem the same to you (they certainly do ference between scores,” they found that most sistency was improved when using the com- Vineyards & Wines. whites; and Syrah, Caber- to me), the authors did use different tests to of the judges were consistent. Finally, when net Sauvignon, Grenache, measure each. Let’s see how they defined each. bined scores of three expert tasters. Even if the authors measured “category agreement,” For complete article see R. Gawell and P. , Merlot, and They would consider a judge to be “reliable” this trend was less clear for white wines, the they found that it was moderate to very high, Godden In: Australian Journal of Grape their blends, for reds. if, the second time around, his/her bottom authors believe these findings justify the cur- even though it was significantly higher for reds and Wine Research. 14(1): 1-8. 2008 rent practice in Australian wine judgings of wines still got low scores, and his/her top than for whites. In brief, judges were better using a small panel of tasters. During the study, test wines wines got proportionally high scores, even if at reproducing a quality score for a red wine and their duplicates were em- the scores were all 2 points higher, or lower, bedded within large flights of the second time. But this judge would not be wines, which represented par- “consistent.” To try to differentiate between ticular varieties and styles each these two, the authors measured two statistics session. Thus, even though the (“regression correlation” to gauge reliability; expert tasters were aware that their and “absolute difference between scores”, to judging performance was being eval- measure consistency), but because even these uated, they were unaware which of two statistics were insufficient, they had to the presented wines were being used to introduce a third statistic (“category agree- evaluate their consistency. ment”, or the percentage of times two scores for the same wine fell in the same quality cat- Author: Bibiana Guerra, egory). In any event, let’s see the results:

14 • AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY WINE JOURNAL americanwinesociety.org americanwinesociety.org 16 • AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY WINE JOURNAL americanwinesociety.org SPRING 2011 • 15 Kavaklidere Winery Les Hospices Sherwood House Vineyards 2009 Egeo Rosé 2009 Sancerre 2005 Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Wine Aegean, Turkey Loire Valley, France North Fork, Long Island, New York This enticing, well structured rosé (made from Floral and mineral notes captivate the nose and Gorgeous yeasty, freshly risen bread dough 60 percent Cal Karasi, 25 percent Syrah and lead to citrus infused stone fruit, crushed river aromas send you eagerly into the glass, where 15 percent Grenache) displays vibrant notes of rock and a sprinkling of fresh herbs that are you’ll find bright pear and butter cookie fla- freshly picked strawberries prominently on the beautifully lifted on the palate with brisk acidity. vors and a pretty touch of citrus delectably

nose. This attractively dry rosé offers a delicious intertwining with the yeasty notes on the pal- Clean and skillfully balanced; here is an exqui- mouth full of red cherry, strawberry and peach ate. The steady stream of tiny bubbles stays site example of Sauvignon Blanc exemplifying tones and a splash of citrus that all intermingle lively through the bright finish. the terroir of the Sancerre region. gloriously, creating a uplifting, elegant wine. Food pairing: Crab and avocado by Ellen Landis Food pairing: Fresh oysters on the half shell Food pairing: Grilled halibut with fruit salsa California rolls

SRP: $22.50 SRP: $19 SRP: $37

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Medrano Estate Vineyards Arborbrook Vineyards Mercer Estates Ayres Vineyard Channing Daughters De Ponte Cellars 2010 Torrontes 2009 Croft Vineyards 2007 Merlot 2009 Pioneer Ribbon Ridge Pinot Noir 2008 Tocai Friulano 2008 Dundee Hills Estate Pinot Noir Salta, Argentina Chehalem Mountains AVA, Oregon Columbia Valley, Washington Northern Willamette Valley, Oregon Sylvanus Vineyard Dundee Hills, Northwest Oregon Pungent citrus blossom aromas and a lovely Captivating aromas of honeysuckle and juicy The nose captures sun- ripened cherries and South Fork, Long Island New York Scents of sweet cherries and boysenberries This shining PN (aged 15 months in 50 per- purity of tropical and stone fruit on the pal- pears splashed with fresh squeezed citrus draw enticing spice, and that’s just the beginning. lure you into the glass and remain focused Expressive aromas of tree fruits and herbs sug- cent new French oak barrels) opens with al- ate create a brightly shining package with this you into the glass and keep your attention ful- This velvety Merlot opens expansively on the with a pleasing earthiness and baking spices gest freshness in the glass, and this lovely dry luring aromas of wild raspberry and hints of tangy Torrontes from the northern Argentine ly engaged. The succulent, ripened tree fruit, palate with flavors of fresh picked blueber- of cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice weaving white variety (most known from Northern vanilla bean and expands broadly on mid pal- region, Salta. The flavors of melon, white grapefruit and lemon-lime notes fill the pal- ries and cherries accented deliciously by milk throughout. This polished single estate 667 Italy) delivers in spades. Delicious crisp pear ate with layers of cherry, minerality, spice and peach and flecks of citrus rind deftly balanced ate gloriously. Bright acidity is another bonus chocolate and baking spices. Smooth tannins clone Pinot Noir boasts lively acidity and a and lemon zest accented by a dash of herbs subtle earth notes. Smooth as silk and deftly with just the right degree of acidity makes this with this lovely 100-percent stainless steel fer- fill out the seductive package. good depth of flavors, and remains very well coat the palate, and the fruit is well balanced balanced; a Pinot Noir that should age grace- wine simply irresistible. mented Pinot Gris. balanced through the lingering finish. Food Pairing: Lamb Noisettes with savory with snappy acidity. fully for years. SRP: $13.50 Food pairing: Butternut squash ravioli rosemary sauce Food pairing: Salmon en croute Food pairing: Chicken broccoli stir fry Food pairing: Roasted duck with cherry sauce

Food Pairing: Seared scallops with SRP: $18 SRP: $23 SRP: $39 SRP: $24 SRP: $55 beurre blanc sauce www.arborbrookwines.com www.mercerwine.com www.ayresvineyard.com www.channingdaughters.com www.depontecellars.com www.filuswine.com Mazzocco 2006 Kelleher Family Vineyard Ritzman Charles Krug Shinn Estate Vineyards LaZarre 2007 Pinot Noir 2008 Zinfandel Brix Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (QbA) 2006 Vintage Select 2007 Estate Merlot Central Coast, California Reserve Smith Orchard Oakville, California Pfalz, Germany Cabernet Sauvignon North Fork, Long Island New York Dry Creek Valley, California Alluring mushroom, cherry and forest floor Black currant and spice box aromas that fill Napa Valley, California Here is a great value Riesling blended with a .. Plump juicy blueberries and a splash of vanilla nuances on the nose make a perfect introduc- Glorious aromas rich with jammy fruit and the nose broaden deeply on the palate. Crème bit of Silvaner and Muller Thurgau from the The intense aromas of this classic Napa Valley fill the senses splendidly. Lush and balanced tion to the mesmerizing layers of black cherry, complementary floral notes waft from the de cassis, tobacco and dry earth notes meld Pfalz region of Germany. Floral aromas pro- Cabernet really wow the senses. Round and with mouth filling layers of plums, blueber- raspberry, spice and herbaceous notes that fill glass. Flavors are equally compelling with harmoniously together and hints of dark vide a nice lead in to the attractive balance of voluptuous in the mouth with dark plums ries, milk chocolate and spice that intertwine the palate. Excellent weight with well-inte- nutmeg and crushed red peppercorn nuances chocolate add further dimension. Complex fruit and acidity and pleasing touch of sweet- and black cherries that meld beautifully to- harmoniously alongside firm tannins that sug- grated silky tannins and toasty oak accents, weaving throughout a lush mouthful of co- and deep, this is a powerfully structured Cab- ness. Light and graceful on the palate; a plea- gether and are artfully framed by firmly struc- gest age worthiness; good length too - beauti- this elegant Pinot Noir is balanced and styl- coa dusted blackberries. A nice touch of oak ernet with a solid backbone of firm tannins surable and easy-to-quaff wine. tured tannins. Finishes with quite a grip; this fully crafted Merlot. ish from its inviting start to the lip-smacking, highlights the 18-month aging in French bar- that will benefit from decanting now, and Cab is built to go the distance. Food Pairing: Chinese chicken salad with persistent finish. rels; beautifully integrated. should age magnificently for decades. Food pairing: Braised lamb shanks toasted almonds Food Pairing: Grilled prime rib with creamed Food pairing: Roasted filet of salmon with a Food pairing: Cuban pulled pork with Zin- Food pairing: Chateaubriand SRP: $24 horseradish sauce SRP: $10.50 wild mushroom compote fandel mojo sauce SRP: $82 www.shinnestatevineyards.com SRP: $69 SRP: $35 SRP: $50 www.kelleherwines.com www.charleskrug.com www.lazarrewines.com www.mazzocco.com

16 • AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY WINE JOURNAL americanwinesociety.org americanwinesociety.org SPRING 2011 • 17 Cherry Creek Cellars James Arthur Vineyards AWS WINE JOURNAL WINE - NOTHING TO SNEEZE AT 2008 Raceway Red 2009 “2 Brothers” LaCrosse NEW OR Albion, Michigan Raymond, Nebraska ABOUT THE AUTHOR: NOTEWORTHY Researchers from the University of Southern Denmark may have A blend of Cab Franc, Chambourcin and LaCrosse is a white hybrid grape (created by by Jim Rink Ellen Landis, a published Wine Writ- found the explanation why some people get allergies from drinking Chancellor, this nicely made wine really sings. Elmer Swenson) that does very well in cold wine. They have discovered that there are certain proteins in white Forward cherry and spice aromas open the winter climates. This wine is delightfully er, Certified Sommelier and Wine wine that may be causing the problem. door to the purity of fresh berry and ripe cher- fruity and lifted on the palate with sweet and THE DURAND FETCHES FRAGILE CORKS ry flavors showcased on the palate. Its sweet- tart tones intermingling tastefully from start Consultant, is involved with many as- ness is obvious but not over the top. The soft, to finish. Bright fruit with a hint of citrus, Along with his colleagues, Giuseppe Palmisano, a post-doctoral pects throughout the world of wine. round mouth feel of this price friendly wine this wine sits pretty on the palate with a candidate in Martin Røssel Larsen's research group at the Department is especially pleasing for those seeking a bit of smooth texture and pleasing aftertaste. As Wine Director and Sommelier at of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, conducted in-depth studies sweetness in their red table wine. Food pairing: Sweet and sour chicken with Chardonnay. He found glycosylated proteins (proteins with Landis Shores Oceanfront Inn (Half Food pairing: Grilled sausage and peppers sugar structures) that have very strong similarities to known allergens SRP: $16 Moon Bay, CA), which she co-owns and may thus be the reason why so many in the world have an allergy SRP: $14 www.jamesarthurvineyards.com with husband and chef Ken Landis, to wine. www.cherrycreekwine.com Prairie Moon Winery she coordinates and hosts wine events Black Star Farms 2007 Winter Moon Vidal The new knowledge may help wine producers to produce wines in the 2009 Arcturos Riesling Blanc Ice Wine to help further educate wine aficiona- future that are more hypoallergenic, so allergy sufferers may have the Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan Ames, Iowa opportunity to enjoy a glass of wine without runny noses, sneezing dos. She was also a Sommelier at the and/or breathing difficulties. This irresistible Riesling opens with delight- Intoxicating aromas of freshly sauted apple ful aromas of citrus and a fragrant bouquet of slices dotted with brown sugar and a drizzle of Ritz Carlton for 4 years. Ellen has The Durand is a Michigan railroad history museum, a line of spring flowers, and stays focused on the palate honey completely entrance the nose. Power- demarcation in Afghanistan, and a newly patented device that is DOORS OPEN AT CENTER traveled extensively to many wine re- with succulent white peach and nectarine fla- fully built with decadent layers of baked ap- amazingly effective in removing older and fragile wine bottle corks FOR VITICULTURE AND ENOLOGY vors wrapped around a firm core of acidity; a ples and pears, creamy butter, honey and spice gions throughout North America and whole and undamaged. Designed by a prominent wine collector, and nice touch of minerality adds complexity. that richly coat the palate; finishes long. overseas. Visit her blog at www.ellen- named after world-renowned Sommelier Yves Durand, it has been On November 5, 2010, the doors for the Shelton-Badgett North Food pairing: Pan seared shrimp Food pairing: Fresh apple tart Carolina Center for Viticulture and Enology officially opened. Named “repeatedly tested on the most challenging corks.” onwine.com. SRP: $16.50 SRP: $50 for the family of Charlie and Ed Shelton, owners of , Mark Taylor, a wine collector known for outstanding vertical tastings, the new center is part of in Dobson, NC. www.blackstarfarms.com www.prairiemoonwinery.com The center will serve the grape and wine industry, not only in North developed and produced the Durand, after struggling with difficulties Forty-Five North Vineyard & Winery Wolffer Estate in opening some older wines. The Durand is a fully patented and Carolina, but the entire Southeast, providing workforce training and 2009 Blanc de Pinot Noir 2008 Diosa Late Harvest Chardonnay surprisingly simple two-part device that permits the user to successfully industry support. North Carolina currently has 80 wineries and 400 Lake Leelanau, Northern Michigan South Fork, Long Island, New York remove older and fragile wine bottle corks whole and intact. vineyards. According to the North Carolina Grape and Wine Council, The beauty of this mouthwatering rosé begins Honeyed aromas leap from the glass and segue the industry contributes $813 million annually to the state’s economy with the brilliant rosy pink hue, and it bursts smoothly to flavors bursting of caramelized The Durand has been tested and used with great success by numerous and provides 5,700 jobs. open with fresh strawberry and red raspberry peaches, honey dotted apricots and roasted wine lovers, collectors and locally and internationally known flavors weaving harmoniously on the palate; nuts. Decadent and rich yet not cloying, with sommeliers. Before the Durand, most corks, old and new, were The center is a $5 million complex, funded through North Carolina well balanced with a nice touch of sweetness. the ideal level of acidity keeping it vibrant and removed from wine bottles using two or three basic methods, with General Assembly appropriations, North Carolina Community Think biting into a fresh picked sun ripened promising a long life. College System grants, North Carolina state bonds, and private strawberry, juicy and tasty on the palate and mixed results. Food pairing: Warm peach crisp refreshing with a good level of acidity. donations. Surry Community College began offering courses in SRP: $37 “In March of 2009, I served as M.C. at a superb wine savoring of viticulture in 1999 and currently offers a two-year degree in Viticulture Food pairing: Herbed cheese appetizer and Enology. To date, $3.2 million in grants and private contributions www.wolffer.com six old Clarets followed by six old Burgundies. Not one cork broke SRP: $24 or crumbled. It was a remarkable experience. I believe any serious have been leveraged for student-centered demonstration projects, www.fortyfivenorth.com oenophile should own a Durand,” said the product’s namesake Yves technical training, and services targeting improved and expanded Durand, voted best sommelier in America in 1985. vineyard and winery operations.

Instructions for use are printed on the inside of the reusable wrapper The college has hosted seminars featuring experts from across the that encloses the charming presentation box of the Durand. For more nation and world, which have presented topics at the forefront of information, visit http://thedurand.com. grape and wine production. Students receive practical experience in

18 • AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY WINE JOURNAL americanwinesociety.org americanwinesociety.org SPRING 2011 • 19 a five-acre vineyard and bonded winery on the college campus. A understand and harness the biodiversity of natural microbes associated student-produced wine, Surry Cellars- 2007 Red Dirt Rosé, recently with wines in New Zealand and develop novel, natural ferment tools won a double-gold medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine that increase wine complexity and appeal,” Dr. Goddard comments. Competition and a silver medal at the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition. Viniflora® FrootZen™ is based on a yeast strain found naturally in grape juice but never commercially used in enology until now. It is The center will feature a teaching laboratory, state-of-the-art a direct inoculation product (no rehydration) containing 20 years of commercially bonded winery, special events hall, classrooms for a know-how developed within Chr. Hansen. variety of curriculum and continuing education courses, resource library/conference room, instructor offices, and climate controlled “The use of this strain helps to bring out the flavor precursors contained wine storage. The 4,000 square foot special events hall will enable the in grape juice more efficiently when associated with traditional yeast college to sponsor and host seminars, conventions and conferences. available on the market today, which boosts tropical fruit notes; The center will also position Surry Community College to better it also increases the mouth-feel of the final wine and delivers long partner with community colleges and universities across the Southeast lasting fruit flavors which increases the wine’s complexity in a very to meet the needs of this diverse industry. Surry Community College sustainable way,” explains Hentie Swiegers, Head of Chr. Hansen’s is located in the heart of the Yadkin Valley AVA, North Carolina’s first Wine Innovation Department. For more information, visit: federally designated wine region. http://www.chr-hansen.com/. N

For more information, contact Greg Smith, 336-386-3331, [email protected] or visit www.surry.edu.

DANISH YEAST MAKES WINES MORE "FROOTY"

Pursuing its strategy of offering natural, high value specialty yeasts and malolactic cultures to the wine industry, Chr. Hansen once again launches a breakthrough innovation within enology: A frozen, direct inoculation Pichia kluyveri yeast product for winemakers producing aromatic and fresh white or rosé wines.

First to be launched in New Zealand in 2011, after two years of local The American Wine Society trials and fine-tuning, Viniflora® FrootZen™ is expected to generate is grateful for the support particular interest within Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris of those who advertise in the AWS Journal. and Riesling wines. Afterwards, it will be introduced to the major When you meet these white wines areas in the Northern Hemisphere: Germany, Austria, sponsors, please tell them France, Italy, Spain and the USA. your saw their message in the AWS Journal Developed in cooperation with a leading New Zealand University, Chr. Hansen’s new product represents the highest level of technology Your ad in the available in bio-production and is the result of a working partnership, American Wine Society Journal with an exceptional wine research team from the University of will reach a targeted market Auckland, New Zealand, headed by Dr. Matthew Goddard. of sophisticated and know- ledgeable wine consumers. “This product represents an option for winemakers to naturally increase the microbial diversity of ferments in a reliable and consistent Call or email today to way. Along with the specific attributes, this strain of Pichia kluyveri reserve your space in the AWS Journal brings to the wine an increase in flavor and aroma complexity as well 888.AWS.9070 as adding body. We have been working closely with Chr. Hansen to executivedirector@ americanwinesociety.org

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The American Wine Society is the official journal of the American Wine Society, a non-profit educational organization dedicated to the education of its members and the general public on all aspects of wine. The is a semi-annual publication and is mailed to all whose membership is paid in full.

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22 • AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY WINE JOURNAL americanwinesociety.org americanwinesociety.org SPRING 2011 • 23 PO Box 279 Englewood, OH 45322 Address Service Requested

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