International Journal of Advances in Science Engineering and Technology, ISSN(p): 2321 –8991, ISSN(e): 2321 –9009 Vol-5, Iss-4, Spl. Issue-2 Dec.-2017, http://iraj.in AN ECO FRIENDLY DYEING OF COTTON FABRIC USING HENNA EXTRACT
1OMER KAMAL ALEBEID, 2TAO ZHAO
College of Chemistry, Chemical Engineering and Biotechnology Key Lab of Science and Technology of Eco-Textiles, Donghua University, Ministry of Education, Shanghai, 201620, China Industrial Research and Consultancy Center, Ministry of Industry, Khartoum, 11111, Sudan E-mail addresses: [email protected]
Abstract - A new approach for dyeing of cotton fabric using Henna extract was investigated. In this study, 3-chloro-2- hydroxy propyl trimethylammonium chloride was used to substitute metallic mordants (heavy-metal salts) in pre-treatment of cotton fabric. This will eventually prevent heavy metal pollution as well as will facilitate dyeing without addition of salt. Cationized cotton fabrics were dyed with Henna extract at different dyeing temperatures for different dyeing times. Color strength, fastness properties (washing, rubbing and light), were investigated. The fastness properties results of all samples dyed with Henna extract were satisfy. Enhancement or decrement in the color strength was found to be governed by the dyeing temperature and dyeing time.
Keywords - Eco-friendly dyeing, Henna extract, Cationization
I. INTRODUCTION In application of Henna onto cellulosic textiles, fastness properties such as wash, light, perspiration, Recently, synthetic dyes have been widely used due etc. are often very low. This may be due to the polar to their lower prices and wide range of bright shades features of both cellulose and Lawson (hydroxyl with considerably improved color fastness properties groups are the active specious), in addition to as compared to natural dyes. Almost all the synthetic heterogeneity, diversity and complexity of natural dyes being synthesized from petrochemical sources matters. Therefore, to surpass this drawback, through hazardous chemical processes pose threat additional treatments are often needed to enhance the towards the environment and human body health [1, durability value of textile products [4]. 2]. Hence, interest in natural dyes has increased considerably on account of their high compatibility Many attempts have been carried out to elucidate the with environment, as well as availability of various functional aspects of Henna dye as well as to enhance natural coloring resources as from plants, insects, its fastness properties, especially washing and light minerals and fungi [3, 4]. It is reported that some fastness, by using several metallic mordants [7-10] natural dyes can not only dye fabrics in unique and Cationization is a novel treatment on cotton fabric elegant colors but also impart antibacterial and which has been used to enhance the color strength ultraviolet protective functions [5, 6]. and fastness properties of dyeing. Cationic product 3- chloro-2-hydroxy propyl trimethylammonium Lawsoniainermis L., commonly known as “Henna” is chloride (CHPTMAC) is a relatively cheap, reactive a shrub or small tree frequently cultivated in India, and low toxic chemical which is potentially a good Pakistan, Iran, Afghanistan, Yemen, Egypt and cationic agent for the required modification [11]. Sudan. Powdered leaves of this plant are used as a Pretreatment of cotton fabric with cationic agents cosmetic for staining hands and hairs. The dyeing instead of metallic mordants can be a novel technique property as well as the UV absorption is attributed to for upgrading the natural dyeing properties and the presence of Lawson; 2-hydroxy-1,4- minimizing the pollution. Accordingly, the main naphthaquinone in Henna leaves [7]. This coloring objective of the present work is, to investigate the component has following structural formula; dyeing behavior of cationized cotton fabrics with Henna extract in the absence of a salt.
II. DETAILS EXPERIMENTAL
2.1. Materials and chemicals Scoured and bleached plain-weave cotton fabric of 117 gm-2 was obtained from Hua Fang Co. Ltd., China. 3-chloro-2-hydroxy propyl trimethylammonium chloride was supplied by Aladdin Industrial Corporation, Shanghai. Henna powder was supplied by Tag Cosmetics Ltd. Omdurman-Sudan. All chemicals were used as
An Eco Friendly Dyeing of Cotton Fabric using Henna Extract
78 International Journal of Advances in Science Engineering and Technology, ISSN(p): 2321 –8991, ISSN(e): 2321 –9009 Vol-5, Iss-4, Spl. Issue-2 Dec.-2017, http://iraj.in received without further purification. Deionized water method in a model gy-12/HTAI-Hua Tai-China was used throughout the study. dyeing machine. Samples were immersed in a dye bath composed of Henna extract (1%) and sodium 2.2. Extraction of Henna dye carbonate (15g/l), using dye liquor ratio (1:20). All Certain amount of henna powder was extracted in the dyeing experiments were carried out at required amount of water and boiled for 1h. The temperatures of 40℃, 60℃, 80℃ and 90℃ for 40 extract was cooled to room temperature and filtered min, 60 min and 80 min respectively. Thereafter, to remove the insoluble residues; the resulting filtrate cotton fabrics were removed from the dye-bath and was then used as stock dye solutions (1% extract) for rinsed thoroughly in tap water followed by soaping the subsequent dyeing experiments. (soap flakes 2 g/L, Na2CO3 10 g/L, liquor ratio 1:30, 95℃, for 10 min). Afterward, the samples were 2.3. Cationization of cotton fabric washed and dried. Cotton fabric was cationized based on pad-batch method. 50 g of 3-chloro-2-hydroxy propyl III. RESULT AND DISCUSSION trimethylammonium chloride (CHPTMAC) was dissolved in 200 ml deionized water. 22.8g of sodium 3.1.Interaction of cationic reagent with cotton hydroxide was then added to form 2,3- fabric epoxypropyltrimethylammomiumchloride (EP3MAC) 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammomium chloride solution. After which the fabric was impregnated with (EP3MAC) was prepared in situ by reaction of 3- EP3MAC solution at 50℃ for 20 min and then was chloro-2-hydroxy propyl trimethylammonium padded at a speed of 1 m/min and pressure of 1 chloride (CHPTMAC) with alkali (Figure 1.). kg/cm2. The padded fabric was wrapped in a plastic EP3MAC reacts with the hydroxyl groups of film for 24 h at room temperature to prevent the cellulose creating cationic charges on the surface of migration of chemicals on the fabric and evaporation cotton fabric [10]. As a result, cotton will have of water. After that, the fabric was rinsed twice with cationic dye sites covalently bound to the polymer distilled water and neutralized with acetic acid chain. The carboxyl group in Lawson which is solution (2 g/L). Finally, the treated fabric was rinsed negatively charged reacts with the cationic dye sites to obtain a pH of 7.2 on the fabric and then dried in a in the cotton fabric, enabling dyeing without addition commercial dryer at 60℃ [11]. of electrolyte which is normally needed to drive the dyes from the water onto the cotton fiber. 2.4. Dyeing procedure Cationized cotton fabrics were dyed with Henna dye solution without addition of salt using an exhaustion
Fig.1. Reactions occurred during the cationization process of cotton fabric
3.2. X-ray diffraction analysis 34.05° [11]. These characteristic peaks also appear in X-ray diffraction has been extensively used for the XRD patterns of cationized cotton which reveals investigation the supramolecular order (crystallinty) that the cationization reaction does not change the of cellulose and its derivatives. XRD patterns of main crystalline form of cotton fabrics. Meanwhile, normal and cationized cotton are shown in Figure 2 in comparison with normal cotton, the peaks intensity (a), (b). It can be seen that the normal cotton has main of the cationized cotton declined due to abundant – diffraction signals at 2θ = 14.9° , 16.55°, 22.8° and OH group in the texture of cotton being substituted
An Eco Friendly Dyeing of Cotton Fabric using Henna Extract
79 International Journal of Advances in Science Engineering and Technology, ISSN(p): 2321 –8991, ISSN(e): 2321 –9009 Vol-5, Iss-4, Spl. Issue-2 Dec.-2017, http://iraj.in by grafting of the cationic agent. The substitution of the fact that the colorant significantly gets adsorbed hydroxyl group reduces the density of hydrogen band. and then absorbed [8].
Fig. 2. XRD pattern of (a); normal and (b); cationized cotton
3.3. Color strength (K/S Value) The obtained results (Fig.3), disclose that, with Fig.3. Effect of the dyeing temperatures and dyeing time on the increasing the dyeing temperature from 40℃ to 90℃, K/S values of the dyed fabrics3.4. Fastness properties the K/S values are enhanced which reflects the As shown in Table 1 all Henna dyed fabrics have positive impact of higher temperature on improving very good washing fastness regardless of the dyeing the swellability of cotton fabrics as well as solubility temperature and dyeing time. Change of shade and of the Henna dye, thereby opening the cellulose staining of adjacent fabrics (wool and cotton) were structure, increasing the extent of penetration and found to be good (3-4) to very good rating (4-5), diffusion of Henna dye molecules.Effect of the respectively. dyeing time on color strength is also shown in Figure
3. With increase of the dyeing time, more color Dry rub fastness of all Henna dyed fabrics was good strength is observed. The less strength might be due (4). Wet rub fatness values also found to be fairly to incomplete dyeing when insoluble impurities good to good rating of (3-4). compete with the colorant to absorb onto cotton fabric rather than colorant. As the time of dyeing increase from 40min to 80min more and more color strength has been obtained. This might be because of
Table 1. Fastness properties of the dyed fabrics
Dyeing time Cross staining Rubbing test Light Dyeing temperature (min.) Color fastness (℃) change Cotton wool dry wet
40 40 4 4-5 4-5 4 3 3-4 40 60 3-4 4-5 5 4 3 4
40 80 3-4 4-5 5 4 3-4 4
60 40 3-4 4-5 4-5 4 3-4 4
60 60 4-5 4-5 5 4 3-4 4
60 80 4 4-5 4-5 4 3 4
80 40 4 4-5 4-5 4 3 4
80 60 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3 4
An Eco Friendly Dyeing of Cotton Fabric using Henna Extract
80 International Journal of Advances in Science Engineering and Technology, ISSN(p): 2321 –8991, ISSN(e): 2321 –9009 Vol-5, Iss-4, Spl. Issue-2 Dec.-2017, http://iraj.in 80 80 3-4 4-5 5 4 3 4
90 40 4 5 5 4 3 4 90 60 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3 4 90 80 4 4-5 4-5 4 3 4
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An Eco Friendly Dyeing of Cotton Fabric using Henna Extract
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