Saint Petersburg is my lovely home, I’ve known every nook and seen every hole. I live under warm theater dome,me, This place has a hint of a roughgh Scottish soul.

I know all the roofs, bridges, andnd laneslanes I walk through the aisles with lionsions of stone,stone, I’ve visited streets and smallestt terrains Where mystical parks and gardens have grown.

The Hermitage cats are best friendsends of mine,mine, As well as the poets, the wizardss of words,words, The venturous guards salute me inin line, Atlantes keep safe the castles off lords.

If your deepest wish, my dearest friend,friend, Is to see Petersburg in all splendidid charm, I promise you’ll have the greatest weekend, Grab me by the tail, stretch out yourour arm! Hello,llo, mymy youngyoung friend!friend my young friend, that walking with me and exploring the main sites of the city LetLet me iintroducen myself: my n name is Waffl e will make you love it with all your heart thethhe Cat. I was and come here again and again. You, bornbob rn in Saint probably, wonder what we’re going to Petersburg,Pete but my start with. ancestorsannce came First of all, I’d like to tell you why it’s fromfromo SScotland. me who will be your guide. Cats play I wo woulduld like to show an important role for youyoyou my beloved city. and are closely linked with the city’s I’mI’I m suresus re thatt you’ll love history and culture. Do you know that travelling withwi me. the Hermitage has been guarded by dedicated cats for over 150 years? What,What, in youryo opinion, Or, that once the encouragesencourages a person to (Leningrad is the previous name of travel?trravel? WhWhyy do many of us Saint Petersburg) was over, the city fi nd it important to visit new was inhabited by crowds of rats and places, communicate with people only cats from Yaroslavl managed to who diff er from us, or taste foreign free the city from the rodents? food? What do we feel once we have achieved our goal or climbed a new You can fi nd numerous monuments to peak? We feel delight, start believing cats on the streets of the city! Thanks in our abilities, discover previously to one of them, the monument to the unknown sides of ourselves and cat Tisha Matroskina, we celebrate other people, learn to respect foreign the World Day of Saint Petersburg cultures and reveal ours. I really hope, Cats on June 8. Petersburgers have DDAYAY 1 been recently acknowledged to be the period of white nights starts in late May biggest cat lovers in the country. and ends in mid-July. That is why, I will accompany you during Saint Petersburg is a real pioneer our tours about this beautiful city. Be among Russian cities. It is where the sure, you’re in good and soft paws. country’s fi rst museum (Kunstkamera), the fi rst (in the Summer You certainly know that Saint Petersburg Garden), and the world’s fi rst rail is the Russian capital of culture. Many road appeared. Are you willing to see outstanding Russian scientists and the main points of interest in Saint artists lived in this city. Cats played a Petersburg? Then take your parents by remarkable role for some of them, too. their hands and get ready for a walk! As far as a number of names goes, While walking,walking, trytry to paypay attention Saint Petersburg holds a record among to details;etails; ifif youyou happen to notice cities. It had three offi cial names: Saint somethingthing unusual, make sure youyou Petersburg, Petrograd, Leningrad. The show it to y yourour parents. And city had been the capital of for shouldd youyou see anythinganything over 200 years, so, nowadays, it is often interestingsting that is not in called the Northern Capital of Russia. the booklet,ooklet, use It is also referred to as Venice of the your imaginationmagination North: the City of Forty Islands, Eight to createreate youryour Hundred Bridges and Three Hundred own adventureadventure Floods; or the City of White Nights: the route.

3 3 4 DDAYAY 1

Tour time I, like nobody else, understand that walking all day (including stops long may be diffi cult at times. So, our journeys will and rest): 120 minutes be short and we’ll make stops so that you can both Distance: 5 km enjoy the sites of my home city and try something Number of signifi cant sites: 10 tasty. Be certain, I’ll show you the most worth-seeing Number of and delicious places. Ready? See you soon, then. catering facilities: 2 To start with, I suggest we meet at the very heart of Saint Petersburg — — opposite the Alexandrinsky Theatre, just several steps away 5 from Gostiny Dvor station. Look closer and these days, and its interior is restored to be you’ll see a large glass window... With a chef just like it was in 1903. grabbing a cat by its tail in it... Have you spotted it? The Kupetz Eliseevs Foodhall stands out at the background of Nevsky Prospekt. It So, you can see me, too. Here I am, right in keeps astonishing with its magnifi cence, front of the entrance. Meow... sculptures, unusual shape and huge stained-glass windows. If you look at it from This is one of the best-known Russian stores Nevsky Prospekt, you’ll see a statue of the opened in the previous century. You and I noble god Vulcan who incorporates Industry must visit it. When launching it, the Eliseevs, on the left, and the god Mercury, the patron merchants (kupetz, as we call them), decid- of Commerce, on the right. There are two fe- ed at once that they would sell only unusual male statues — Science and Arts — on the goods of the highest quality. side of Malaya . This is the fi rst location where metal sculptures of that I’d like to tell you a legend about the birth size were installed. Impressive, isn’t it? of the Eliseevs’ trade empire. On Christmas Eve 1812, a gardener named Peter Eliseev, And on a stained-glass window of the Kupetz Count Sheremetev’s serf, delivered fresh Eliseevs Foodhall, Mihail Chemiakin, a well- strawberries for his master’s amazed guests known theatre painter, accommodated char- on a saucer. Having come to his senses, the acters from The Nutcracker. That chef and Count asked his serf how to thank him for the cat were also created by him. Ssh... The such a treat. He didn’t hesitate to answer: entire composition moves day and night; an- “Set me free.” The Count kept his promise. gels fl y up to colourful stained-glass windows He set Peter free and awarded him with one of the Kupetz Eliseevs Foodhall, drawing by- hundred roubles as start-up money — a huge passers’ attention. amount at that time. The former serf and his family set off to Saint Petersburg. He bought The building of the store is a monument of a sack of oranges, went to Nevsky Prospekt architecture of the early Art Nouveau. The and began selling them. 90 years later, de- style was designed to demonstrate the part- scendants of the fi rst Eliseev established a nership’s wealth and draw attention of poten- grocery store at the very place, where Peter tial shoppers. The stained-glass windows on started his commerce. The store functions the side facing Nevsky Prospekt unite sev- 6 DDAYAY 1

erall fl oors andd create a sense of one large it had at the time of the Eliseevs merchants, shop window. It lets light from Nevsky Pros- early 20th century: cast-iron chandeliers with pekt into the store through its reconstructed forged leaves, ceiling cornices, stained-glass colourful glasses, and the inside of the shop windows, mouldings, counters. Except that, is illuminated by fragile crystal chandeliers. where cash registers used to stand, a palm The main façade of the Kupetz Eliseevs tree grows these days with tables around it: Foodhall decorates Nevsky Prospekt and is we can sit there and have some tea and lo- admired by residents and visitors of the city. cal pastries, and you can buy some milk for me. Let’s have a snack and listen to clas- I can’t wait to get in, can you? Can you see sical music played by a mechanical piano, how extraordinary the inside of the store and, afterwards, I will introduce you to my looks? It has the very same appearance as cat friends.

7 Let’s hurry outside! Go out and turn right, now you’ve found yourself in Malaya Sado- vaya Street. Here, monuments to cats Elisey and Vasilisa were installed in 2000. Raise your head higher and you’ll see them on the cornice! Look closer, Elisey made himself comfortable on the side of the Kupetz Eli- seevs Foodhall, and there is Vasilisa walking along the cornice of a house on the opposite side of the street.

The cats made in bronze symbolize animals who rendered priceless help to the city at war. There were no cats left in the city during the siege of Leningrad resulting in crowds of

8 DDAYAY 1

round and changes the direction of its move- ment every hour. By the way, the has two kugels: a summer one and a winter one. The fi rst one is shiny and rotates from spring to autumn. It is removed for winter and replaced by the second, “rougher” one. It’s a special tradition to make a wish near the kugel fountain: you must turn your back on the fountain and toss a coin over your shoulder, rotate the kugel gently as many times as the number of the step your coin lands on, and your wish will come true after the same number of months. rats who ate the last stocks of grocery. The Let’s go on! It’s by no means all I want to task to fi ght the rodents was placed on cats show you today! who were specifi cally brought from Yaro- slavl. The “Meowing Division” managed to handle the problem.

Nowadays, the city dwellers believe that these animals can bring luck. To make sure your wish comes true, toss a coin onto either cat’s pedestal. Thus, you can “catch your luck by the tail” and what you wished for will come true for sure.

Have you spotted anything unusual between my friends? There is a kugel fountain with bronze fi gures. The kugel (or sphere) turns 9 If we go farther along Malaya Sadovaya happiness and joy, and remember to pet the Street, we’ll see a statue of a photographer Bulldog for a better result. with a friendly British Bulldog. We’re looking at a monument to the famous photographer I’m not going to pet him, I’m not fond of dogs, and founder of his own studio, Karl Bulla, but this one is nice! who left over 200 K photos to remember him by. Only thanks to Karl Bulla’s works, every- Have you made your wishes? Let’s contin- one nowadays is able to pciture what the ue our journey! We are going to walk farther 19th-century Saint Petersburg looked like. along Malaya Sadovaya Street and right to Manezhnaya Square, where a vegetable It is believed that if you take the photogra- garden was at the time of Tzar Peter the pher under his elbow, the life will be full of Great. A bit later, under the reign of Anna Ioannovna, Empress of Russia, this place accommodated an elephant yard where ele- phants (presented by a Persian Shah) used to stroll. By the way, the phrase “idling around like an elephant” and Krylov’s fable Elephant and Pug were conceived in Saint Petersburg at the elephant yard. A while back, a wood- en house of a circus was built here. Later, it was relocated to its current stone building at 3 Embankment where you and I are going to set off now.

We will walk along Karavannaya Street and reach the building of the Circus.

“A circus is something from your childhood, something magical. So miraculous and breath-taking.”

(с) Vyacheslav POLUNIN 10 DDAYAY 1

As we turn to Karavannaya Street and to- the position of the primary entertainment es- ward the where we’ll tablishment. Every novelty, both in terms of see the building of the Bolshoi Saint-Peters- repertoire, and technology, from all over the burg State Circus, or Ciniselli Circus as it world was displayed on its arena. was previously referred to. Are you curious whom it was named after? The construction In 2015, the Circus regained its offi cial name of the premises was initiated by Gaetano of the Ciniselli Circus, but the city residents Ciniselli, an Italian subject, a head of a large still call it the Circus on the Fontanka River. circus family, a horse rider and trainer who’d This is the fi rst brick-built circus in Russia. gained wide fame in Europe. The architect It is here, where the fi rst water show was of the construction was Vasily Kenel. Very presented, the arena was transformed into soon, the Ciniselli Circus joined the ranks of a huge swimming pool, where deer, horses Saint Petersburg’s main sites and enjoyed with riders and elephants swam, and the 11 fountainsffounntain playedl in some spots of the arena. And we’re going on. We’re walking along the Currently, the circus off ers fantastic shows Fontanka Embankment up to Zamkovaya with acrobats, animal trainers and their pets, Street and turn left. We have reached one clowns, jugglers, magicians, gymnasts, bal- of the most mystical places in Saint Peters- ance masters, tightrope walkers, and riders. burg — Saint Michael’s Castle. It was built by the order of Emperor , The Circus houses the world’s fi rst Muse- and the fi rst stone was laid over 200 years um of Circus Art. Since its establishment ago. A legend has it, that the castle takes its in 1928, the Museum has essentially been name from Archangel Michael who had ap- dealing with identifi cation, collection, stor- peared before a guardsman right on the spot age, study and popularisation of the global where the castle was subsequently put up. circus heritage. The Emperor began referring to it as Saint

12 DDAYAY 1

Michael’s Castle right once the construction We’ll go the Fontanka River and there, if you started. look down over the granite fence, you can see a little fi gure of Chizhik-Pyzhik bird. This The colour of the castle is surrounded by is the smallest monument in Saint Peters-ers- some legends. According to one of them, it burg and a long-desired target foror me.me. was selected to match a glove of the Emper- But we’re not going to hunt it,it, of or’s mistress, Anna Gagarina (Lopukhina). course. It is believeded thatthat They say, Anna dropped her glove during a if a small coinn tossedtossed under the bird’sbird’s ball. Paul I of Russia who was near at the bronze legs staystays moment was the fi rst one to pick it up. The on a small platformorm unusual yellow and orange shade of the where Chizhik-ik- glove caught his eye. And, instead of return- Pyzhik is, your wishsh ing it to the girl, he handed it over to Vincen- will come true. Andnd zo Brenna, an architect. my coins never stayed.ed.d

Have you taken a look at the castle? Will you Are you curious wherehere go to the excursion? Then, after the tour, you the name Chizhik-Pyzhikzhih k and I will go hunting. Maybe, with your help, I’ll comes from? And why iss it catch that bird. What bird? Let me show you. here? Of course, I’ll tell you.ou.

Nearby, at 6 Fontanka Em-m- bankment, the Imperiall School of Jurisprudence was established. Its students were called Chizhiks, which is a Russian word for siskin, be- cause their uniform was green with yellow buttonholes and wristbands, resembling to col- ours of this very bird’s feathers, and Pyzhik is a Russian word for reindeer fur, that’s what their hats 13 were made of. However, the second part of ! What a riddle! the nickname has another probable origin: It’s a metal-stone twiddle! their postures were demonstratively pomp- It was home of Peter King, ous, in Russian naPYSHenny, so people Statues stand in gorgeous ring started calling them Pyzhiks. With a vase to show way in… (V. Bleykov) Let’s go, I have lots of exciting things for you ahead. For example, there is the Summer A little green island at the very heart of Saint Garden in front of us. Can you see how it Petersburg, the fi rst garden of the city, the spread its green branches among stone em- favourite summer residence of Emperor Pe- bankments? ter the Great — it’s all about the Summer

14 DDAYAY 1

Garden. These days, it’s a favourite place of recreation for Petersburgers: the park is decorated with 79 white antique marble sculptures. The Summer Garden has over 600 trees-oldtimers that are older than 100! Small ponds in the Summer Garden are a home for swans and ducks. You can also see a monument to I. Krylov, a fabulist, in the garden:

In maples and oaks, he sits calm and shy With a bear, a fox and wolves nearby. Birds from his books get ready to fl y. The writer Krylov made of hard solid stone! But he would be bored to stay all alone.

He sits with a book all day and all night, A goat and a monkey make his time bright! When visitors leave, the darkness will fall, The fox and the bear will start their ball. Now, we are going to reach the Palace Em- bankment and return a little bit along the And there, a dove on a shoulder will land, Embankment. Now, we are at And the writer will pet the bird with his hand. the Field of Mars. You’re not tired, I hope. Well, let’s continue our walk! (Liza Fedoseeva) At the time of , this area served as a place of recreation for soldiers and was used to hold public events during What fables by Krylov do you know? My holidays, so it was referred to as the Amuse- favourite one is The Mouse and the Rat, ment Field. Later, during the reign of Em- ‘cause cats are very much admired there. press (Tsaritsya) Catherine I, the fi eld be-

15 came known as Tsaritsyn Meadow. Through the Empress’ eff orts, it transformed into a beautiful regular park with well-groomed alleys, loans, and lanes. The park had ex- isted for a short time and was turned into a military square, and once a monument to renowned military leader was installed it received the new name of the Field of Mars.Mars.

You can seesee the Suvo- rovrov MonumentMonu if you looklook throughth the parkpark ata the River.River. Orlov. The palace takes its name from the decoration of its façades with this natural ShallShShalall wew go on? stone, which was unusual for Saint Peters- Let’sLeLet’t s continueco our burg. Thirty-two kinds of northern and Italian journeyjoourney along Mil- lionnayalionnaya Street. marble were used in the construction. HavingHaving walked aboutabout the Field of Walking along , we’ll reach Mars,Mar you and I Moshkov Lane and, once we turn right, we’ll get areare heading onto Konyushennaya (Stables) Square. This forfor the Mar- place served as the Court Stables at the time bleble Palace, a of Peter the Great. The middle of the square giftgif from Em- is currently occupied by the Museum of Retro presspre Cathe- rinerine the Great Cars called Horsepower. You can see a lot of to herhe favourite antique cars, sport motorcycles, military ma- CountCoun Grigory chines, old coaches and even sledges there. 16 DDAYAY 1

We’ve had quite a journey. Are you hungry? open until Ryzhik (or Raddie) comes back: I’m starving... Let me show you a legendary the cat goes for a walk from time to time. place in Saint Petersburg! At 25 Bolshaya Konyushennaya Str., there is a small I think, we’ve done enough of walking today. 60-year-old doughnut shop, which is cur- I’m tired and it’s time for me to return to my rently on the Red Book of Saint Petersburg. cosy bed. And, if you’re not tired yet, you can Visitors of the shop at Konyushennaya Str. walk a little longer. But I suggest we meet are deeply fond of the much-spoken red cat. tomorrow morning and continue our trips. An unwritten rule says: the establishment is Meow! offi cially open until 8 PM, but it will remain

1717 18 DDAYAY 2

Tour time Good morning! Ready to continue our journey? Today, (including stops we’ve met at the central square — . and rest): 80 minutes Distance: 3.5 km This is one of the best-known architectural ensembles Number of signifi cant sites: 7 in the world. A beautiful view of Palace Square is off ered from the triumphal arch of the General Staff Building decorated with a Roman chariot and the winged god- dess of Glory. Every ornament on the arch is laid out from military trophies; fi gures of watchmen in antique armours stand still at the level of the second fl oor, greet- ing everyone silently.

19 about 1,500 rooms and facilities. The currently accommodates one of the world’s largest and Russian greatest muse- um — The State . It holds a collection of over three million cultural arte- facts and pieces of art from various eras, coun- tries, and peoples. But few people know, that another reason why the Hermitage Museum is so unique is that it is a home both for items of art and for... cats. They guard our cultural herit- age from rodents. Cats appeared in the Winter Palace during the reign of Empress Catherine the Great, they were referred to as the Winter Palace cats and were divided into strata right away. The fi rst stratum consisted of “room” cats, and the second one was branded as “outdoor” cats. The room cats served as a liv- ing decoration: they were well fed and slept in fi rewood baskets. The outdoor cats inhabited inner yards and basements of the palace, pro- tected the Empire from rodents and were treat- ed nicely, too. The Hermitage holds the Day of Inn t the very heart of Beloved Cats in June. On that day, everyone PaPalacelac Square, there is invited to bring their pet to the museum and sstandstands highhigh the Alexander Col- show it in all its beauty. umuumnn named afterafter Emperor Alexander I ooff Russia. It is adoradorned with a fi gure of Have you looked Palace Square around? Let’s an angelangel crushingcrushing a serpents with a cross. go and explore other interesting things around. It ssymbolisesymbolises a victvictoryo of the good over We are turning from the square to the right to- ththee evil. The most splendid building at ward one of the widest bridges in Saint Peters- PlPalace Square S is i the h Winter Wi Palace, formerly burg — Pevchesky. Legends whisper that the the principal imperial palace in Russia. It has location for it was selected by Emperor Nicho-

20 DDAYAY 12

mances. The Capella holds children’s con- certs, even for the youngest ones... Let’s continue our journey along the Embankment and then turn to Nevsky Pros- pekt and head for the Admiralty with a shin- ing golden spire. This is one of the very fi rst buildings, and the little boat on the spire is a symbol of our city. There is a legend that the little boat was shaped to resemble the fi rst ship that had entered the newly constructed

las I of Russia personally. Count Yury Golovkin who was related to the Emperor’s family was known to reside in building No. 24 at the Moyka Embankment. Once, when the Count was invit- ed to the Winter Palace to the Tzar’s reception, he was in such a hurry that he slipped up while getting into a boat and fell into the water. This occurrence made Golovkin return home, after- wards, the Emperor, who didn’t want to wait for him, came to his house personally. The next day, after the incident, and his wife paid a visit to their relative again, this is when the Emperor suggested building a bridge at that place, in order to prevent similar events. On the left bank of the Moyka River, opposite the Pevchesky Bridge, the St. Petersburg State Academic Capella is located. It hosts festivals, international contests, organ music perfor- 21 port of Saint Petersburg. The layout of the Ad- As we’re crossing the bridge, I’ll tell something miralty building was developed by Peter the interesting! The idea for development of the Great himself. It was a one-storey, П-shaped Old Saint Petersburg Stock Exchange and building. The Admiralty was a large enterprise Rostral Columns was conceived by architect where the entire process of vessel construction Jean-François Thomas de Thomon while he was having his morning coff ee. His wife was took place: from timber harvesting through the laying the table and put a coff ee pot and two vessel launch. mugs symmetrically on its sides on an oval Let’s continue our discoveries and go toward tray. It gave the architect the overall concept the Palace Bridge. It will take us to Vasilyevsky of the entire area of the future square with the Island so that we’ll be able to see the Old Saint Stock Exchange building and two Rostral Col- Petersburg Stock Exchange and Rostral Col- umns on its sides. umns, visit the Zoological Museum and the fa- Oh, here we are! Stock Exchange (Birzhevaya) mous Kunstkamera. Square is one of the central squares of the city

22 DDAYAY 12 and took its name after the stock exchange lo- and a mummy of a little mammoth named cated there. The main entrance of the building Dima are exhibited there. accommodates a group of sculptures Neptune The next building on the embankment is the with Two Rivers, the opposite façade features Kunstkamera. I even know a verse about this Navigation with Mercury and Two Rivers. Clos- museum: er to the water, the architect arranged two Ros- tral Columns where fi re is lit during city holi- The king loved all kinds of wonders, days. The bases of the columns display fi gures And kept those items in million numbers. incorporating Russian rivers: the Volga, the Finally, all the strange things were located, Dnieper, the Neva, and the Volkhov. And fi rst ever museum could be created. “I want people observe and learn!” — said Pe- There is a yellow and white building to the ter the Great and established the fi rst Russian right from the Stock Exchange which houses museum called the Kunstkamera, the word is the Zoological Museum. Over 30 thousand derived fromfrom GermanGerman andand means a “cabinet“cabinet ofof species of animals — from protozoa to pri- curiosities”.ies”. DuringDuring the reignreign ofof Peter the Great,Great, mates — a skeleton of a southern mammoth not onlyy the entrance was freefree ofof charge,charge, visitors were encouragedencouraged byby treats from thehe Tz Tzar.ar. ThThee m museumuseum currentlyly holds a unique collectionon of antiques revealingng the historyhistory and householdusehold rou-rou- tine off numerousnumerous peoples.s. Our journeyrney is over; I’m prettytty tirtireded ffromroom a long walk,wala k,, it’sit’s timetitimeme to go bbackackk home.homo e.e SeeSeee you nextext time,timme,e y youngouung friend!

2323 24 DDAYAY 3

Tour time Hello, my young friend! (including stops and rest): 70 minutes You’ve already seen many sites in Saint Peters- Distance: 3.2 km burg, and you must be eager to fi nd out where Number of signifi cant sites: 5 we’re heading today. We’ll start this day with visit- ing Saint Isaac’s Cathedral, one of the most impres- sive buildings in Saint Petersburg. Its history dates

25 backback almost to the fi rst photos taken in Russia captured Saint ddadayy of foundation of Isaac’s Cathedral being constructed; ironi- ththee N Northern Capital cally, this is where the fi rst Russian antire- a n d iis s fullfull of unexpected ligious museum was established in 1931. twttwistsists and facts.facts For example: The Cathedral is the heaviest building in the ffofourur attempts were madem to build the cacathedral;thedral; the fi rst temple was the city, only one column weighs 110 tonnes, plplaceaca e where CatherineCathe I and Peter and the building has several dozens of sim- tththee G Greatreat g gotot mamarried;r one of the ilar columns.

26 DDAYAY 312

Saint Isaac’s Cathedral is 101.5 meters of the most-visited tourist attractions these high. It is the fourth largest cathedral in the days. Here, from the 43-meter altitude, you world. Having the total area of 4,000 square can enjoy a panoramic view of Saint Pe- meters, the building can accommodate up tersburg and its major sites. to 12 thousand people. Saint Isaac’s Cathe- dral is undoubtedly one of the symbols of Having visited Saint Isaac’s Cathedral, Saint Petersburg. Its high domed drum can we’re crossing Admiralteysky Prospekt be seen from the Gulf of Finland, it became and fi nd ourselves in the Alexander Gar- a remarkable part of the city’s portrait. The den named after Emperor Alexander II of colonnade of Saint Isaac’s Cathedral is one Russia. Having walked through the garden,

27 we’re heading for Senate Square, the sec- ond most signifi cant square in Saint Pe- tersburg. A monument to Peter the Great called “The Bronze Horseman” is installed in the middle of the square: it symbolises the strength and power of Peter’s soul and the Emperor’s important role in the Russian history.

The following legend lies in the core of the poem “The Bronze Horseman” by Alexan- der Pushkin.

In 1812, Napoleon threatened to invade Saint Petersburg. As ordered by Emperor , the monument was supposed to be removed from the city to

28 DDAYAY 312 keep it safe. Some major named Baturin was haunted by a nightmare: the fi gure of Peter the Great rides down from the ped- estal and moves to the Kamenny Island Palace. The living sculpture addresses Alexander I saying: “What have you done to my Russia? As long as I remain on my spot, this city has nothing to fear!” After that dream, it was decided to cancel the evacu- ation of the monument. The Bronze Horse- man stood still during Napoleon’s attack and the World War II, protecting its city from enemies.

Shall we go farther? After getting acquainted with the Bronze Horseman, we are walking toward the Admiralty Embankment, where they come to life for a second... This is the one of the best-known and most mysterious best time to make a wish! Young travellers lion couples of Palmyra of the North (anoth- may ask the lions anything they want and er nickname of Saint Petersburg) lives. at any time of a day. You just need to really want it and rub the lion’s paw (the one on The animals who are incorporation of no- the sphere). Many people assure that their bility, power, wits, and bravery were “born” wishes really come true after that! in 1832 at the Alexandrovsky Steel Works in Saint Petersburg. These royal animals at Now, that we have taken photos and made the Dvortsovaya Pier are currently a symbol a wish near the Descent with Lions, I’m in- of the city and attract tourists from all over viting you to take a small trip to the most the world. unusual island of my city — . Those who believe in omens should come here at sunset. They say, the expression of We need to walk along the entire English the lions’ faces changes at that moment and Embankment, cross Truda Street and reach

29 the island along Admiralteysky Canal Em- itself where Dutch shipbuilders invited by bankment. Peter the Great worked, foreign speech and canals with drawbridges reminded of New Holland Island is admired by many Holland. Petersburgers. Initially, there was no is- land here. In the early 18th century, when The island served as a site where new ship the city was being constructed extensively timber storage systems were tested, pilot by the order of Peter the Great, the Admi- models of ships were developed, the fi rst raltyy buildingg was putp up,p, and opposite to Russian wireless telegraph station and the it — shipyards.shipya Canals fi rst European-type naval prison appeared. namednamed KryukovK and Top architects and engineers of various AdmiralteyskyAdmira were centuries were responsible for island area dugdug outo between arrangement creating a set of buildings cur- ththee NevaN and the rently considered to be a masterpiece of the MMoykaoyka Rivers to Russian architectural classic. allow forf transport Access to the island has been restricted for ofof s shiphih p construction over 150 years, but these days it hosts cul- materialsmamatet rir ala s to the ship- tural and art festivals, various events and yards.yayardr s. interesting activities. New Holland Island is a popular recreational area for citizens and TheThe islandis derives tourists. It’s nice to simply lie on the grass itsits na name from a on a sunny day. Unlike other down-town traditiontradit to name parks, it is both allowed and encouraged. so the area araround the Ad- And now, the main surprise for you, my mmiralty build- young friend! Once we leave New Holland iingn which Island, we will go to a real land of cats in wwas modelled the very heart of Saint Petersburg. We need afafter Dutch to walk along Yakubovicha Street toward shshipyards. Per- Saint Isaac’s Cathedral: there is a place haps,hap it’s be- there that combines an art café, a museum, causecau the area an exhibition space, a club and a cat house 30 DDAYAY 312 designed for friendly encounters of animals need an owner. By the way, the employ- and people. It’s called the Republic of Cats. ees take care both of their pets and stray cats from the neighbourhood who stare at Beside playing with whiskered and striped the windows of the Republic with their sad friends, your parents and you can drink a eyes. cup of tea or coff ee, play boardgames, read books from the local library or watch movies Our journey is over for today, see you to- and cartoons about cats. Unfortunately, you morrow! won’t be allowed to take any of the café’s residents, but, upon request, its employees will off er an album with photos of cats who

31 32 DDAYAY 4

Tour time Morning, my friend! (including stops Today, I’m inviting you to an exciting journey to the and rest): 80 minutes very heart of Saint Petersburg, a place where con- Distance: 4.2 km struction of our beautiful city began — to the Peter Number of signifi cant sites: 5 and Paul Fortress. In order to get there, you need to go out from Gork- ovskaya station and turn right, toward Kronverk- skaya Embankment.

33 The fortress was built based on drawings Petersburg’s image: foror in- co-developed by Peter the Great and en- stance, Saint Petersburgburg gineer Joseph-Gaspard Lambert de Guer- Mint (where all the coins,ins, in. These days, this old fortress serves as awards and medals had a symbol of the city on the Neva and is a been minted until thehe desired place to visit for many tourists. Its end of the 20th centu-u- territory off ers numerous monuments and ry), a facility for the Bo-- museums that are an essential part of Saint tik (little boat) of Peter

34 DDAYAY 3124 the Great (the boat is jokingly referred to as and features over 850 K exhibit items. Its full the “grandfather of the Russian fl eet”). Here, name is the Military Historical Museum of Ar- you can also fi nd the main political prison of tillery, Engineers and Signal Corps. the imperial Russia: its cells accommodated If you don’t feel like going inside, you are inmates called Decembrists; Alexander Rad- welcome to explore items of military machin- ishchev, an author and social critic, was kept here in 1790’s for his book “Journey from St. ery exhibited near it. Petersburg to Moscow”. Do you know that you can visit all the major sites of the city within 20 minutes? Are you Once we leave the intrigued? Come, I’ll show you how to do it! and its territory, we’ll go to one of the old- est museums of the Northern Capital and Hurry, let’s go to the Alexander Park! This one of the world’s largest military muse- splendid spot is located right behind the Pe- ums — “Museum of Artillery” in the Kronverk ter and Paul Fortress and the Museum of Ar- (crownwork) of the Peter and Paul Fortress. tillery. The park is rightfully considered to be It occupies an area of 17 K square meters one of the most attractive and picturesque

35 places in the city: here, you can fi nd and out- Peter and Paul Fortress, Saint Isaac’s Ca- door mini model of Saint Petersburg. A lot thedral, the State , and the of cities of the world off er exhibitions of mini Rostral Columns among other items. This copies of the world-known or local sites of outdoor exhibition is an incredibly popular interest. Now, Saint Petersburg is also proud photo zone. to have a place where one can see its sig- Do you remember which of the mini build- nifi cant buildings on a small platform in the ings we’ve already seen in their real size? park. This mini city was established in 2011 and has been pleasing its visitors since then. Now, we’re moving into the depth of the park It has the Winter Palace with its square, the toward the alley leading to the Saint Pe-

36 DDAYAY 3124

The Space Journey Hall invites kids and adults to take trips along dedicated space routes. The “Krugozor” (Horizon) Hall hosts meetings with scientists of various fi elds, discussions of important scientifi c problems of the modern society, fi lm shows educating children and adults on topical environmen- tal problems. In the Hall of Entertaining Illu- sions, you can hear exciting stories about optical illusions and see eloquent examples of how our eyes can be tricked by certain objects and phenomena. I would like to fi nish our today’s excursion tersburg Planetarium. It opened its doors in with a visit to the Leningrad Zoo, one of the 1959 and has been revealing secrets of the Russian oldest zoos. Universe to residents and visitors of the city The Saint Petersburg Zoo was founded on for more than half a century. August 14, 1865. It was initially a private me- The Planetarium has 7 functioning halls. The Star Hall hosts scientifi c events on as- tronomy and space exploration, scientifi c conferences, meetings with astronauts and scholars. The Laboratory of Amusing Experiments holds over 200 experiments demonstrating laws of physics.

With the 360-degree panorama in the “Plan- etka” (Little Planet) Hall, young explorers will be able to make amazing geographical dis- coveries and visit the open space.

37 nagerie, established and maintained by Ju- most horrifying page of its history — World lius Gerhardt, a Dutch man and a Prussian War II and the siege. Many employees of the subject, and his wife Sofi a at their own cost. zoo went to war, and the signifi cant part of Later, the zoo had changed many owners animals and birds were evacuated to Kazan. and had been a privately-owned establish- Some animals and employees remained in ment for more than 50 years. the city. The zoo employees continued tak- It became a state-owned zoo only after the ing care of their pets and demonstrating Bolshevik Revolution in 1917. Just like the them to visitors. About twenty people who city itself, the Leningrad Zoo survived the saved the animals during World War II per-

38 DDAYAY 3124

formed a truly heroic act. Many of them lived burg, a conservation and educa- right in the zoo to be closer to the animals tional establishment.stablishment. Today’sToday’s they looked after. Sixteen employees were been a veryvery interestinginteresting awarded the Medal “For the Defence of Len- day, but,t, unfortunate-unfortunate- ingrad”. To honour their act, it was decided ly, it’s t timeime to wind not to rename the zoo and to keep its old up. I hopeope to seseee name — the Leningrad Zoo (Leningrad is you soon!on! the previous name of Saint Petersburg). The Leningrad Zoo still remains a unique museum of the wild nature in Saint Peters-

3939 40 DDAYAY 5

Tour time: Hello, my young friend, do you like fountains? individually scheduled Distance: I’m not fond of water, but I appreciate beauty! So, individually scheduled I suggest we leave the city for a while and go to a splendid countryside. Nearby Saint Petersburg, on a shore of the Gulf of Finland, there stands a unique town, alternative- ly referred to as the “Capital of Fountains”. There

41 rises high above the sea a fantastic gold- zen still, and the soundnd of running,running, en palace with its front entrance featuring spraying and droppingping water rich stairs where streams of water fl ow merges with whispersers of the down cheerfully. A little bit lower, there is sea safeguarding its treasure.treasure. a wonderful park dressed with fl ower gar- dens, alleys and ponds. There, thousands No one can help smilingng of splendid fountain streams shine under fascinated at a glancece the sunlight, elegant sculptures stand fro- of those fountains: theyhey

42 DDAYAY 315245 are magnifi cent and amazing, puritanic and one — for patronage and protection against funny, colossal and unforgettable. enemies. The sites of Peterhof incorporate skills and You’ve probably guessed that we’re going talents of prominent architects, sculptors, to Peterhof today! fountain experts, garden and park special- ists of various epochs, so that we can now It features numerous splendid architectural adore its beauty and magnifi cence. monuments rightfully making it a genuine Peterhof was founded by Peter the Great open-air museum. However, if you come as an imperial country residence after the off the major tourist routes while visiting this victory over the Swedish forces at the Battle town, you’ll see its most unexpected sides. of Poltava. It had been constructed amaz- One of such places is located in the yard of ingly fast. a building in Saint Petersburg Prospect: a small park with quite an unusual arrange- Peterhof was offi cially opened in August, ment. This is a small and round paved site. 1723. By that time, the Lower Gardens had Along its sides, there stand benches with granite pedestals with... cats on them! Made of stone, white, black and red cats were placed in this park in the early 2000’s by design of Nikolay Karlykhanov. Each of them is busy in its own way: looking at the prospekt or “playing” with a ball of thread. This place is fi lled with a pleasant and re- laxing atmosphere, ‘cause cats, even gran- ite ones, always lighten the mood. If you have a cherished wish, whisper it to an ear of one of those cats and it will come true. But always bear in mind what each cat is interested in. Ask the red one for res- olution and courage, the white one — for family peace and harmony, and the black 43 alreadyalread been mapped out, ththee S Sea Channel had been dudugg out,o and some fountains wewerere functioning, the upper chchambersaam had been fi nished, anaandd the Monplaisir and Marly PaPPalacesl had been built. The babbasiss of the entire compo- sisitiontion forfor thethe residence and its further ddedevelopmentvelopment waswa authored by Peter the GrGGreateat himselhimself.f. ArchitectArc J. Braunstein used hishis drafts as a framework for the gener- al layout.layout. DocumentsDocum with the Emperor’s instructions what species of wood to plant, how to lay alleys and arrange a drainage system have survived to the present days.

We are facing the Upper Gardens which occupy 15 ha. They play a signifi cant part in Peterhof’s image and serve as the main courtyard. The garden was planted during Grand Palace was being reconstructed, the the fi rst years when Peterhof residence was garden was expanded according to Franc- being constructed and had remained a veg- esco Bartolomeo Rastrelli’s design. The etable garden for a long time: vegetables Upper Gardens feature amazingly beautiful grew on its beds, fi sh was bred in its three fountains: Mezheumny, Oak and Neptune ponds serving as reservoirs for the fountain Fountains with the Apollo Cascade. system. At the second half of the 18th cen- tury, it was transformed to a regular park The heart of the entire ensemble is the with fountains starting to appear. When the Grand Palace — the “trademark” residence

44 DDAYAY 315245 of Russian Emperors. On visiting it, we’ll get the composition by emphasising the Sam- to a terrace aff ording a panoramic view of son’s water stream. the Grand Cascade — a pearl of Peterhof’s Let’s take a walk about the eastern part grandiose fountain system. The Cascade is of the park. Here, we’ll see splendid foun- unique in its size, water volume, and abun- tains and cascades: Chessboard Hill, Ro- dance of its decorative sculptures. man Fountains, Pyramid Fountain, Water The famous Upper and Lower Grottos are Road Fountain, Sun Fountain, Cloche located under the Grand Cascade. They (Bell) Fountains, Sheaf Fountain, and many were constructed in 1720 as designed by Peter the Great. The structures amaze with their vaults adorned with a marble and gild- ed sculpture. The Lower Grotto will let you explore an exposition telling about fountain specialists of olden times.

Peterhof’s Lower Gardens, occupying 102 ha, are the best-known part of this palace and garden complex. This very out- standing ensemble with its architectural monuments, fountains and sculptural dec- orations brought fame to this museum and reserve.

Walking down the Grand Cascade, we can see the central Samson fountain — a sym- bol of Russia’s victory in the . It is surrounded by the twin Bowl Foun- tains on the left and on the right. They are called French (the eastern one) and Italian (the western one) fountains. The Bowls fi t in

45 others. If we walk toward the Gulf of Fin- cence and beauty of the ensemble one more land, we will reach the Monplaisir Palace. time. Our tour about Peterhof is over now The palace was built by a personal order of and we are going back to Saint Petersburg. Peter the Great in between 1714 and 1723 by architects A. Schlüter, J. Braunstein, Unfortunately,y, we’ve done ex- Jean-Baptiste Le Blond, N. Michetti. ploring Saintt Petersburg.Petersburg. I tried to arrangege our excur- If we take the central Marly alley, we will sions in suchh a wayway so pass by the Adam and Eve Fountains, that every dayay spentspent in see the Lion Cascade and reach the Marly the gorgeouss citycity on Palace constructed according to J. Braun- the Neva Riverver wouldwould stein’s design between 1720 and 1723. be eventfulul andand There is Marlinsky pond eastward from memorable! DidDid youyou the palace and Sectoral ponds westward. enjoy it? There is another amazing Golden Hill Cas- cade to the left from the palace. Let me knoww whatwhat you rememberedmbered We’ve seen may fountains, splendid and most. Perhaps,aps, it magnifi cent. But Peterhof has another type was a buildingding or of fountains. Let’s seek and fi nd joke foun- some certain viewview of tains together! These are fountains where the city, or ma maybe,ybe, you can play. Among them are the Settee delicious tea andand a Fountain where you can “sit”; the Water doughnut. Road Fountain, through which you need to run and try not to get wet; and the Umbrella I hope, you’ll’ll re-re- Fountain where you can hide from rain and turn again to enjoyenjoy many others. Try and fi nd each of them and the splendidnessdness tell me which one you like the best! and hospitalityity ofof my home city!y! And now, let’s go back along Birch Alley to the Grand Cascade and adore the magnifi -

46 DDAYAY 1 CROSSWORDCROSSWORD PPUZZLEUZZLE 1. The name of the cat we met during the fi rst walk. 2. The name of the bridge that was named by Nicholas I of Russia personally. 3. The fi rst museum in Russia. 4. This poem by gave the name to the monument to Peter the Great: Bronze... 5. How many offi cial names did the city on the Neva have?

6. A polar bear can be easily seen in the Leningrad… 7. Joke 7.

7. …-fountains were used to play pranks. Zoo 6. 5. Three 5.

2) Horseman 4.

3. Kunstkamera 3.

2. Pevchesky 2.

1. Elisey 1. KEY:

4)

6) 5)