companions wanted 7 Waypoints 8 open road gallery 47

Adventure Cyclist GO THE DISTANCE. april 2012 www.adventurecycling.org $4.95

Buyer’s guide: Today’s Touring Bikes PLUS: How to Plan your trip Starting the kids early

Images from abroad Profile: Ibf and bike Africa

2 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 3 4:2012 contents April 2012 · Volume 39 Number 3 · www.adventurecycling.org

Adventure Cyclist is published nine times each year by the Adventure Association, a nonprofit service organization for recreational bicyclists. Individual membership costs $40 yearly to U.S. addresses and includes a subscrip- tion to Adventure Cyclist and dis- counts on Adventure Cycling maps. The entire contents of Adventure Cyclist are copyrighted by Adventure Cyclist and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from Adventure Cyclist. All rights reserved. Our Cover In Mauritania Gostelow rests under the first tree he’d seen for 2,000 miles. Photo by Peter Gostelow. eric schambion (left) In Niger a camel carries more than Amaya Williams.

MISSION The mission of Adventure Cycling touring bike buyer’s guide by John Wider Association is to inspire people of all 10 What to look for when shopping for your (or first) touring bike. ages to travel by . We help cyclists explore the landscapes and history of America for fitness, fun, a two-wheeled gap year for grown ups by Amaya Williams and self-discovery. 16 Ready to plan the extended bike tour you’ve always dreamed of? Here’s how. CAMPAIGNS Our strategic plan includes three A world of images by Peter Gostelow major campaigns: 24 A selection of photos from an adventure cyclist’s world bicycle travels. • Creating Bike Routes for America • Getting Americans Bicycling • Supporting Bicycling Communities 32 passing down the bike by Eric Butterman You want to pass on your love of cycling to your kids, right? Just don’t be too pushy. How to Reach Us To join, change your address, or ask questions about membership, visit us a world view with spokes by Dan D’Ambrosio online at www.adventurecycling.org 38 A profile of David Mozer, the man behind the International Bicycle Fund and Bicycle Africa. or call (800) 755-2453 or (406) 721-1776

email: [email protected] departments LETTERS Subscription Address: Adventure Cycling Association companions wanted LETTER from the Editor P.O. Box 8308 07 04 Missoula, MT 59807 08 WAYPOINTS 05 LETTERs from the readers Headquarters: Adventure Cycling Association 150 E. Pine St. 42 Marketplace/Classifieds 06 LETTER from the DIRECTOR Missoula, MT 59802 47 OPEN ROAD GALLERY COLUMNS 36 Road test / Patrick O’Grady The Pashley Clubman is an absolute classic

2 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 3 Adventure Letter from the Editor Cyclist 2012 NAHBS April 2012 volume 39 number 3 Incredible bikes and a good vibe in Sacramento www.adventurecycling.org

editor michael deme [email protected] art director greg siple I recently attended the The North American [email protected] technical editor Handmade Bicycle Show (NAHBS) for the john schubert [email protected] first time. This version of the NAHBS was in FIELD editor michael mccoy Sacramento, California, and was the eighth iteration of the [email protected] contributing writers event, which is a congregation of independent bike builders dan d’AMBROSIO NANCY clark willie WEIR JAN heine who manufacture (mostly) sume) . patrick o’grady custom bicycles of an There were so many Copy Editor phyllis picklesimer amazing variety. Most are memorable bicycles I advertising director the kind of bicycles that couldn’t write about rick bruner 509.493.4930 the average cyclist would them all, but a couple advertising@ adventurecycling.org trade all of their fac- stood out. One was a STAFF tory bikes for, and they’d replica Whippet built executive director need to because the price by Paul Brodie, an jim sayer tags on most of these instructor of Bicycle [email protected] chief operations officer machines would make the Frame Building at the sheila snyder, cpa majority of riders blanch University of Fraser membership & Development julie huck AMANDA lipsey noticeably. But from what Valley in Abbotsford, amy CORBIN JOShua tack I could tell, that’s not the point of the British Columbia. Whippets were safety thomas bassett alex campbell media show. The exhibitors at NAHBS are there bicycles built in in the 1880s winona BATEMAN MIChael mccoy to show off their frame-building chops, and were some of the first pedal bikes to alison riley publications and I’m telling you, there were some seri- become popular after the penny-farthing michael DEME GREG siple ous chops to be shown. craze of roughly the same period. The derek gallaghER RAChel stevens information technology Compared to the borderline mad- other was an almost completely wooden john SIEBER RIChard darne ness of Interbike, which is the largest bicycle made by Bekes. Unreal. Both of john eikens bicycle show in North America, the these were representative of many of tours arlen hall mo mislivets three-day NAHBS was a real pleasure to the bikes displayed in that they are not paul hansbarger madeline mckiddy attend. From 9:00 to 11:00 AM on Friday, meant for sale but simply to show what routes and mapping carla majernik jennifer milyko the first day, only industry folk were is possible in the field of bicycle build- virginia sullivan casey greene nathan taylor melissa thompson allowed into the convention hall. That ing. sales and marketing time flew by and I didn’t even make it For more information about NAHBS, teri maloughney through the second isle of exhibitors visit handmadebicycleshow.com. cyclosource ted bowman sarah raz because I was able to chat up each and • • • office manager every builder when I stopped to check I’ve got to fess up to a serious mis- beth petersen out their creations. To be fair, Interbike statement that I made in the February board of directors is an industry-only show with no con- issue. In the review of the PDW Danger president sumer time and NAHBS is focused on Zone on page 50, I said that most cyclists carol york vice president consumers, so there’s not the break-neck involved in a collision with an automo- wally werner pace set from Moment One to sell, sell, bile are hit from behind. This is statisti- secretary sell. Builders were eager to talk about cally not true and I was rightfully taken andy baur treasurer their designs and the reasons behind to the woodshed about it. For more see andy huppert them and, if you’re into talking about the opposite page. board members jason boucher todd copley why cable guides are where they are and jennifer garst george mendes how they’re welded, this is the show for Michael Deme jeff miller donna o’neal you. It’s also the show for you if you like Editor, Adventure Cyclist Magazine fantastic looking (and performing, I pre- [email protected]

4 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 5 Letters from our Readers

False statement about bike- collisions more crosswalk talk

Misstatement v. statistics hope that Adventure Cycling will main- requires it. The problem with motorists In the article “Seeing the Light” on page tain the tradition of gathering and dis- stopping when they have the right of way 50 of the February issue, I read the fol- seminating factual information which is that it puts the cyclist in a difficult situa- lowing statement: “In car-bike collisions, Burden and Burgess started. Thank you. tion. Do you cross or not? There is no guar- most cyclists are struck from behind so John S. Allen, bikexprt.com antee that other drivers are also going to be sure you can be seen.” Waltham, Massachusetts stop for you. If you cross and get hit, you The conclusion of that sentence is good are likely to be found at fault. It’s better if advice but the premise is wildly inac- everyone just follows the rules of the road. curate. Research shows the figure to be Crosswalk confusion Alan Bloom more like seven percent. Fatal collisions You’ll probably get a blizzard of mail Santa Rosa, California are more commonly rear-enders, but they about Bruce Wright’s “Who has right of are rare, and the percentage is under 50 way?” letter in the February issue, but percent. Car-bike collisions are only about it’s an important question that deserves Your letters are welcome. Due to the volume of mail 20 percent of serious bicycle crashes and discussion. and email we receive, we cannot print every letter. account for about 80 percent of bicyclist I’m not familiar with the vehicle code We may edit letters for length and clarity. If you do fatalities. in Virginia, but I doubt it is much dif- not want your comments to be printed in Adventure Cyclist, please state so clearly. Please include your It is important for cyclists to be seen ferent from California. According to the name and address with your correspondence. Email both from the rear and from the front — California vehicle code (CVC 21950), your comments, questions, or letters to editor@ also, to see ahead. I’m pleased that the vehicles must yield to pedestrians in a adventurecycling.org or mail to Editor, Adventure article includes a review of a headlight as crosswalk. A person riding a bicycle is Cyclist, P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807. well as a taillight. Way too many cyclists not a pedestrian; bicycles are treated the use only a taillamp, because they believe same as vehicles under California law CORRECTION: February that the main threat is from the rear and (CVC 21200). Another law requires that because, until recently, white LEDs didn’t a driver (or cyclist) entering or crossing In the February issue of Adventure perform well. Now, they do, and inexpen- a highway must yield to all traffic on the Cyclist: sive, convenient headlamps are available. highway (CVC 21804). It seems pretty a We incorrecly commingled the In 1976, Dan Burden and Bruce Burgess clear that if you want the right of way in Lobster Ride with the Maine Bike of Bikecentennial produced one of the a crosswalk you must become a pedes- Rally, for which the dates are cor- cornerstone research studies of bicycle trian, that is, get off the bike and walk it rect. The Maine Lobster Ride will crashes. (It is in the public domain and across the street. be July 21, so sign up if you love I’m pleased to have been able to repub- I agree with Wright that it is important cycling and eating lobster! lish it on the Internet at bikexprt.com/ that cyclists act predictably. That includes research/bikecentennial/index.htm.) I yielding the right of way when the law

4 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 5 Letter from the Director midwest momentum From new U.S. Bicycle Routes to expanded cycling co-ops, the Heartland hearts bikes

Embarrassing but true: despite seven years at Adventure Cycling, I had not done a speaking tour in Ohio, the home state of all four founders of Bikecentennial (the group that got us going in 1976). That omission was fixed in late February when I did a wonderful eight-day trip from Detroit through Ohio and on to Pittsburgh. The main reason was to announce our new 518-mile Underground Railroad (UGRR) Detroit Alternate Route. But I was also there to join others in sparking the Midwest’s grass- in Oberlin), media representatives, and A bike-friendly journey roots bicycle movement — and did we! supporters of our movement for better from Detroit to Western Every room was packed, every official bike travel. They included long-time life welcoming, and just about everyone was members (like Bob Allen, Mike Johnson, Pennsylvania beaming as we got together to celebrate and Glenn Savarese), new life members cycling. I was tipped off to the enthu- (like Ray Bourey, Dave Short, and Nancy siasm this trip unleashed on my first and Mike Fortney — we now have more night in Troy, than 1,700 life members!), cool families Michigan. We (like Eric and Rachael Hittinger, who had 47 RSVPs for named their baby daughter Abby after an event at the Aberdeen, Mississippi, a joyful stop on local REI (and the Underground Railroad route) and incidentally, REI on-the-ground heroes, like Adventure helped sponsor Cycling’s Volunteer of the Year Chuck the new UGRR Harmon, and Mary Shaw and Roy Weil route creation of Pittsburgh, who were critical in devel- with a $20,000 oping the superlative Great Allegheny grant) — and 150 Passage rail-trail (see page 9). people showed There is more to report, includ- up! Like good ing Michigan’s second(!) U.S. Bicycle bike adventurers, Route ready for national approval this we improvised May (USBR 35 along the shore of Lake and set up an Michigan), Pittsburgh’s cool new air- instant amphi- port connector bike route (see page theater to accom- 9), and Columbus’ “connect the core” Er ic H ittinge r Iconic trail advocates (and Adventure modate the crowd. Other events had bicycle lane campaign. But simply put, Cycling life members) Roy Weil and Mary big turnouts, including grand openings it was wonderful to see this region — Shaw with Jim at the Over the Bar Bicycle for two vastly expanded bike co-ops in so pivotal to the creation of Adventure Café in Pittsburgh. downtown Toledo and Cleveland, and Cycling — doing so much to spur the an awesome annual membership meeting national cycling renaissance. We look for Consider Biking, the largest advocacy forward to heading back in the near group in Ohio. future for another taste of Midwest (and In between eight events, I met with Pennsylvania) momentum! city officials and advocates in Detroit, Columbus, and Oberlin (aiming to Jim Sayer attract more bike tourism), bike entre- Executive Director preneurs (at Over the Bar Bicycle Café [email protected] in Pittsburgh and Swerve Bicycle Shop

6 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 7 Companions Wanted

Providing partners for tours, domestic and abroad, since 1978

Seeking a SAG driver(s) for My Dog Spring have bike touring experience and our ages are Cross Country Along the Northern U.S. I’m 2012 I’m a 51-year-old female open to cycling 74 and 62. We would like companions for all or hoping to ride eastbound from Washington to almost anywhere in the U.S., , or the parts of the ride. Email carolinedonnelly@bell Maine along the Adventure Cycling Northern Middle East. I have a dog with whom I travel. south.net or [email protected]. Tier and North Lakes routes. I’m all about the I’m not yet strong enough to tow her, thus, until journey and the pure enjoyment of cycling, less I am able to, it would be great to have assistance. Northern Tier (Bike for Bread) In June 2012, I’m about the destination, and plan on having at If you are traveling for three to six weeks in any planning to ride West to East to raise money least one or two off-days per week to explore of these locations and would like to offer sup- for a local soup kitchen. I would like to ride the small towns along the way. 50 miles a day port (either sag or towing her with your bike), Northern Tier but would be willing to start as sounds good. I also like stopping to take naps in I can offer money or barter my skills. I rode far south as San Francisco. I’m looking for some- wide open plains. Camping and warmshowers. across the U.S. 14 years ago and am ready to ride one to join me for the whole trip and planning org are my shelter plans. I’m 27 and my name is again. Email [email protected]. to average 65 to 80 miles a day unsupported. Zoe. Email [email protected]. I anticipate stopping at National Parks and Northern Tier — North Dakota to Maine 62-year- enjoying nature. I’m 21, and completed a cross- Midwest to Southwest — Spring/Summer 2012 old retired male looking for one or more com- country trip in 2007. I look forward to repeating I’m looking for some friends to join me on a panions to ride all or part of the Northern Tier the same great experience. Email cdunn@ksc. trip from central Wisconsin to Silver City, New from Fargo, North Dakota, to Bar Harbor, Maine, mailcruiser.com. Mexico. Flexible schedule and very flexible via the North Lakes. Plan on averaging 60 miles route (Northern Tier, Sierra Cascades/Pacific a day and camping most of the time with some TransAm — West to East in 2012 Male, 69, look- Coast?) Planning to leave May/June 2012. Semi- motels. One rest day per week. I rode Anacortes, ing for companions, starting June 24 in Astoria, experienced, hoping for stress-free 50 to 70 Washington, to Grand Forks, North Dakota, last Oregon. Self-contained, mostly camping, bed miles per day. Self-supported and super low- summer. I’ll be starting from Fargo on June 28, & breakfasts, and some hotels. 60 to 70 miles budget equals camping, Warmshowers, eating 2012. Email [email protected]. per day depending on terrain, weather, and cheap (but healthy!), and being flexible. I’m a motivation, with one rest day per week. I rode 26-year-old woman who is riding for fun, adven- Tacoma, Washington, to Lake Tahoe I plan the Southern Tier in 2010 and I also have bike ture, and good living. Email dana.karls@gmail. on leaving Tacoma during the second week of maintenance experience. You don’t have to have com. August and catching the Sierra Cascades Route touring experience, but I would prefer you just south of Mt. Rainier. I hope to ride 50 to have some cycling experience. What are you Touring Companions I’m looking for touring 80 miles per day with one rest day per week. waiting for? You’re not getting any younger, so companions in the Boise, Idaho, area. I’m recent- Mostly camping but will also stay with friends you might as well do it now. Email trifred54@ ly retired and have free time. Drop me an email along the way. Female, 35 years old. If you’re hotmail.com. at [email protected]. interested in joining for some or all of it, email [email protected]. Southern Tier — West to East in September 2012 Male (age 64) looking for fun companions on Adventure Cycling Association assumes, but can- Trans-Canada West-East Self-supported bike a southern route across the U.S. Mostly hotels/ not verify, that the persons above are truthfully tour, starting in Victoria, British Columbia, hostels and some camping, but I’m flexible. representing themselves. Ads are free to Adventure around June 1 and ending on the Atlantic Coast Looking to ride 60 to 70 miles per day with rest Cycling members. You can see more ads and post about 90 days later. We plan on riding 50 to days at intervals we agree on. Come ride across new ones at www.adventurecycling.org/mag/comp 70 miles per day. Mostly camping and cooking a beautiful country with me. This will not be a anions.cfm or send your ad to Adventure Cyclist, with some motels and eating out. Both of us race but a tour. Email [email protected]. P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807.

y Book b th for April 30 OUR T LS SPECIA Our Hidden Treasures Tour • New Colorado Scenery HI • Spectacular D s DE Landmark N • National T Guides REA • Spirited Tour SURES The Relaxed Dakota Bike Tours operates ure Company under special use permit of the Advent bike tours Black Hills National Forest dakotabiketours.com

6 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 7 WAYPOINTS

News you can use from the world of bicycle travel by Michael McCoy WayPoints BIKE OVERNIGHTS Inspiring travel by bicycle

At the heart of one of the fun of a longer trip with a camping, of course, but also your work. Before you pitch Adventure Cycling’s newer fraction of the time required motels, hotels, hostels, and a destination piece, have a programs, Bike Overnights, is for preparation and deploy- B&Bs. The point is to inspire look at the site to make sure it a website that aims to motivate ment. It’s a great way to get an all types of riders to embark on hasn’t already been covered. adventures more often and in We have a surplus of rides spite of their time constraints. in states like California and In addition to featuring Washington, but zero rides in Bike Overnight destination about half of the states — from stories (some five dozen at Florida to Alaska to Hawaii. last count), bikeovernights.org And think of a unique twist. includes a lot of tips, resource To make a submission, go listings, and inspiration to help to the website and click on readers get started. Special “Submit a Trip.” If you would categories include: Gear like to contribute to one of Reviews, How-to’s, Travel Tips, the special categories, query Recipes & Food, and Photos media specialist Michael of the Week. The core destina- McCoy (mmccoy@adventure tion pieces run the gamut of cycling.org) and he’ll tell you bike-travel styles from pedaling how to proceed. rail-trails and low-traffic byways And check out adventure on road bikes to tackling dirt cycling.org/bikeovernights roads and trails on mountain video for a how-to trip report folks to pack up and head inexperienced friend or family bikes. from America ByCycle about out for a short, one- to two- member hooked on bike travel, If you’re interested in con- their recent overnight from night trip (the subtitle: “Don’t and a terrific way to hatch and tributing, we’d love to see Santa Barbara to Los Angeles. wait to go cross country. Go nurture dreams of future trips overnight.”) Since launching in of your own while getting in a February 2011, bikeovernights. quick adventure fix. org has attracted thousands Our inspiration for the site of readers and dozens of con- came from a piece written tributors who have shared sto- by ries and photos from rides in founder Grant Petersen that places as far ranging as New appeared in the January 2007 York and New Zealand. edition of this magazine: The target audience “S24Os: Bicycle Camping includes commuting cyclists for the Time Challenged” who have yet to use their bike (pronounced ES-two-four- for travel, as well as veteran oh, it stands for sub-24-hour touring cyclists who have overnight). We’ve expanded perhaps drifted away from the concept to include out- bicycle travel due to time, ings comprised of two or even family, or physical constraints. three days afield, and we’re

A bike overnight on the road encouraging riders to embrace heathe r ande s E n or trail can involve much of all types of accommodations: A view of Lake Tahoe from a recent bike overnight.

8 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 9 WAYPOINTS

BICYCLE ROUTE 66 PITTSBURGH Two wheels on the Mother Road PROGRESS Bicycling from Pittsburgh International Airport to the As you may already know, Adventure Cycling’s ultra-popular Montour Trail newest routing project, Bicycle Route 66, is now a safe and enjoyable will follow the famous highway corridor from option, thanks to the newly Chicago to Los Angele, and wherever possible, opened Montour Trail Airport incorporate existing remnants of America’s Connector. A little over six “Mother Road.” miles in length, the trail leads “For our route network, this is a critical link from the extended term park- through areas where we have no routes, such ing lot at the western end as Oklahoma,” says Adventure Cycling Routes of the airport complex to and Mapping Director Carla Majernik. Clinton Road, and then on Established in 1926 (though far from entirely to McCaslin Road, a.k.a the paved at the time), Route 66 led a parade of airport security road. Once on Dust Bowl migrants and vacationers along a McCaslin, it trends southeast stretch of some 2,450 miles, from the upper

FROSTY WOOLRIDGE to join up with the Montour Midwest through the great Southwest. The Trail at the Enlow Ball Park route encountered such major cities as St. Trailhead. The Montour Trail, Louis, Oklahoma City, and Santa Fe, and linked in turn, links with the Great a host of smaller communities as well, which we won’t be following Haldeman’s cue sheets Allegheny Passage rail-trail burgeoned in the wake of a fresh stream of exclusively. “Lon’s trips take in certain Route at McKeesport, which con- motorcar travelers. 66 attractions that are accessed by unpaved tinues southeast all the way Those smaller towns — largely bypassed roads,” she says. “He can do that because his to Cumberland, Maryland — today by the interstates that replaced Route 66 trips are supported. We’re planning this as a where it joins up with the C&O — will be an important feature of Bicycle Route paved route for self-contained travelers so it Canal Towpath, leading to 66. They are precisely what touring cyclists are won’t include unpaved sections.” Washington, DC. The Montour looking for as they strive to connect with land- U.S. 66 was officially removed from the also connects, via PA Bicycle scapes, history, and locals. United States Highway System in 1985, a vic- Route A, with the Pittsburgh Endurance rider and Race Across America tim of the Interstate Highway System. With the Spur of Adventure Cycling’s (RAAM) co-founder Lon Haldeman is an expe- 2014 release of maps for Bicycle Route 66, we Underground Railroad Bicycle rienced Route 66 bicycle-tour leader who hope to see scores of travelers returning to the Route, over a distance of generously provided his route notes to aid in historic highway, this time aboard non-motorized about one mile. our research. Majernik explained, however, that machines. It took a decade of discus- sion and planning for the con- nector to come to fruition, and MISS IDAHO 2011 the grand opening was held on A chance LTC connection results in a terrific representative for cycling March 31. Here’s hoping other cities will follow Pittsburgh’s wonderful example and create A posting on Adventure ing, and more. She is also very announcement for Genny,” airport connections to a grow- Cycling’s Facebook page active in her community and, Todd added. For more informa- ing network of regional trails earlier this year grabbed in particular, is a strong sup- tion about Genevieve and her and bicycle routes. You can our attention and held it. porter of the Girl Scouts.” enthusiastic platform, check learn more about the Montour “Genevieve Nutting, Miss This info was posted by out her blog at genevieve Trail Airport Connector at Idaho 2011, was born of the Genny’s father, Todd Nutting, nutting.blogspot.com. linkup.shaw-weil.com/airport Adventure Cycling family,” of Boise, and when Waypoints connector.htm. the post began. “Her mom caught up with him, he told and dad met while attending us that he and his wife, Mary a Bikecentennial Leadership Beth (née Hughes), met at a Training Course (LTC) and 1988 LTC course in Sangraal- have led multiple cycling trips by-the-Sea, Virginia, where for Bikecentennial/Adventure Todd was an advisor and Mary Cycling. When she was two Beth a participant. “In addition years old, Genny toured from to instructing at two of the Spokane, Washington, to LTCs,” Todd wrote, “I have Mexico in the back of a Burley led the Northern Tier, Glacier- bike trailer. 22 years later, Waterton Loop, and the New she continues to be an active Englander trip. Mary Beth led a outdoor enthusiast and enjoys Glacier-Waterton loop. cycling, running, rock climbing, “Bikecentennial Art Director

g r eg si pl e snowboarding, hiking, camp- Greg Siple designed the birth

8 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 9 Touring Bike Buyer’s Guide How do I find the loaded-touring bike that’s right for me? by John Wider

et’s face it. How we use loaded-tour- loaded touring?” If the answer is “not very ing a new one by having a well-researched ing bikes (LTBs) has evolved from often,” then the range of bikes that will data point — your current steed! But by all the 1970s, when you installed a rear fit your needs expands to include many means, riding a few light touring bikes will rackL on your trusty 40-pound Schwinn mountain bikes, hybrids, commuting, and give you great insights on whether one will (didn’t they all come with a rack anyway?) light touring bikes. This article is focused on work for you. If not, it gives you multiple and loaded it to the sky with baskets and “conventional” LTBs, but can still be used to data points to extrapolate from as to which bungee cords. Not to mention balance- select a multi-purpose work horse. Adventure LTB is worth purchasing. One of the first defying backpacks designed for . Cyclist will cover non-standard diamond- questions you need to ask is “what is my Now we consumers demand a wide array of frame bikes in the June issue, so I’ll put these budget?” Factory bicycles suited for fully- specialized bikes. Good if you have $1,000 aside for now. But don’t get me wrong, my loaded touring can be had for roughly $1,000 or more to spend, bad if you’re on a tight wife and I owned a recumbent tandem for to $2,000, with very few offered below the budget. While every imaginable type of years, so we have experienced the joy that a $1,000 mark. If you can’t afford that, a light bike exists (I could name seven without machine like this can bring. touring bike might be had for $500. If you’re diving into sub genres), the availability If you live within a day’s ride of a bicycle out for a custom hand-built touring bike, a of stock, factory-made bikes suitable for shop (arriving under your own power gives minimum of $3,500 can be spent before you loaded touring has shrunk. Yes, if you use a you street credibility), spend time talking can say “What have I gotten myself into?” trailer, your selection greatly expands, with with anyone on the staff who has toured. a “light” touring model (not to be confused Stay away from department stores, sporting Design qualities of a good LTB with the bike being super light weight) good stores, or anywhere that carries only I’ve ridden many a mile on my 16-year-old serving quite well. For we old fashion tour- one brand or that doesn’t have a full-service Trek carbon fiber Y-22 , and ists, who think panniers provide the ideal mechanic. Of the many things you take on while I’ve done light-duty touring on the San system, except in some circumstances (for the road, the backup you’ll need from a well- Juan Hut System from Telluride to Moab, I which I’m sure to get passionate, logical regarded bike shop is invaluable. Not only wouldn’t recommend carbon fiber for any arguments for trailers), I’ll concentrate on can they help you find the best touring bike fully-loaded touring beyond civilization (i.e. LTBs for this article. If you wish to weigh for you and ensure you’ve got all the proper bike shops and hospitals). Given this is the the pros-cons of trailers, you can dig into tools before sending you on your way, they extent of my mountain-bike–touring expo- Adventure Cyclist’s publications archive can serve as your remote road-side assistance sure, I’ll narrow our search to road bikes. (adventurecycling.org/library) to find pre- if you need a part shipped to (or near) an Much has been said in the past about vious articles on this very topic. inevitable breakdown. frame dimensions and the importance of a Assuming you already own an LTB, properly relaxed geometry to give the rider So the primary challenge these days is to: you’ve already begun the process of find- the stability needed to cruise for many A: find an appropriate bike in stock (possible in some urban areas, if you look Tout Terrain diligently) that you can take out for at least an hour and put through its paces. Panamericano Or more likely… B: find a few “light” touring bikes that fit you well so you can get an idea of what features and qualities you want to concen- trate on before ordering an LTB, which, typically, you have to buy before ship- ment, with a no-refund policy. Even if you can return it, it’s likely you’ll face a hefty reshipping/restocking fee. Before you begin looking for the perfect LTB (if there is such a thing), ask yourself “how much am I going to use the bike for hours a day. The steeper, short-wheel–base geometry of a typical road racing bike is Kona Sutra highly responsive to a rider’s need to jostle in the pack and for an agile response to a high torque, high speed, rocking (literally and figuratively) sprint. A LTB is not opti- mized for acceleration or lateral responsive- ness but for a naturally steady ride. One cautionary note is that the rider must look further ahead for potholes or to avoid, given the touring bike won’t change direc- tion as quickly as a racing bike. As for specs, bicycle company websites can be a great resource. But rather than dwelling on technical minutia, get out there and try several bikes, including racing or sport bikes (it can be a sub $1,000 model) for the sake of getting the feel for what you Frame geometry. Many writers go on Life on the road is about more than your do and don’t want in a LTB. Before I get too and on about geometry. I prefer to save my frame. far down the road about what to look for long-windedness for other topics (as you’ll A frame is just one aspect of a bike, and in a good ride, let’s back up half a wheel soon read). The main consideration for those a bike also needs maintenance and repair. revolution and think about our future bike with big feet is to ensure there is clear- More of the former results in less of the from a designer’s point of view. ance from both the front wheel and both latter, but both should be factors in your sets of panniers. If you wish to research bicycle purchase decisions. If your brain is 10 Designers = 200 Opinions further, head back to the archive for past race-dominated, rewash it and start fresh. Even most custom bikes will hit the road “Cyclesense” articles and buyer’s guides Rather than getting from Point A to Point with many voices having influenced their (adventurecycling.org/features/ B in the minimum amount of time, with designs, hopefully yours being one of them. buyersguide.cfm). You can also help out the mechanical breakdowns being a nuisance, Imagine for a moment that you were given researchers at the Bike Geometry Project your mindset should expand to embrace a seat at the proverbial drawing board with (home.comcast.net/~pinnah/dirtbag-bikes/ the maximum enjoyment between A and B. nine renowned designers. Let’s walk through geometry-project.html) who are doing some You’ll be pleasantly surprised that you don’t some of the key design areas in order to interesting things in this regard. have to trade off much speed for peace of consider a variety of options. Remember, mind and panniers full of adventure. imagination is a wonderful thing, but cold This is as good a time as any to intro- hard logic is what will keep you on the move Online Extras: duce the concept of “borrowed” rides. when far from civilization. Need more tips and inspiration for Even if you’re fortunate enough to find a Frame size. A well-fitted $1,000 bike your tour? Michelle Cassel and Ryan touring bike that you can take for a pre- will serve you better than a misfitted McAfee of America ByCycle are purchase trial, borrowing a friend’s bike $2,000 ride. Although most fit-kits seek contributing four online exclusives for a long day ride allows voices to speak the best race-oriented fitting, a mechanic this month to our blog. Read them on to your needs more directly than gather- Tuesdays in April via this quick link: well versed in the needs of a tourist ing touring experts in a room. Encompass adventurecycling.org/onlineextras. should be able to optimize your fit for just as many aspects of your tour as possible. that purpose. A crude approximation is Mountains? Ride mountains. Rough roads that your inseam should be two inches Frame material. The gang of 10 have (with construction you may get more than longer than the height of the top tube weighed in. Steel, aluminum, titanium, and you bargained for)? Ride those too. Tout Terrain for road bikes. Old-school thinking was carbon fiber, in that order. Steel is an afford- Wheels. These are the most failure prone one inch of clearance, but this measure- able material that if maintained properly is components of a heavily-loaded touring Panamericano ment has lately been sensibly increased. less likely to fail catastrophically without bike. When riding in most of the developed Straddling the top tube’s midpoint, pick warning when put under excessive stress, world, 700C or 26-inch wheels are the most up the bike as high as you can, with front such as hitting a large pothole. And, yes, it is easily replaceable. Replaceble? Plan for it and rear wheels approximately the same also more serviceable abroad. Weight is a sec- and it is less likely to be needed. 36-spoke height above the ground. Have someone ondary consideration given the need to sup- wheels (32 minimum) with three-cross lac- measure the height of the wheels. Even if port a heavy load. When considering weight, ing (each spoke crosses three other spokes) the average is three inches, go ahead and keep in mind that you should concentrate on provide maximum carrying capacity. Beefy try this small size just to see how if feels your load and your body. But going over- rims with a box construction also reduce compared with other bikes you’re trying board in any of these categories can get you your chances of a seriously warped wheel out. Make sure the seat and handle bars into trouble. Loaded touring should allow after pothole diving. What am I giving up are adjustable with sufficient travel so that you to enjoy your surroundings, not shave with this slow-me-down package you ask? you don’t have to excessively stretch to minutes off an eight-hour touring day and For touring, nothing at all. If you’re a track- grasp all hand positions on the handlebars. miss the beauty around you. racer, where acceleration is king, every extra ounce in the wheels slows you down Devinci Caribou as much as two ounces elsewhere due to a rotational property called moment of inertia. For steady speeds while touring, accelera- tion is minimal, so this property is not really a factor. A final bit of good news is that the extra stiffness will give you better handling and energy transfer (less flexing) than an expensive feather-light wheel. And make sure the wheels you buy have all spokes tensioned well and trued. Once the wheel is true, if some spokes are tensioned too loosely or too tightly, insist on a replacement wheel at no extra charge. Your life depends on it, so depend on your shop to make it right. Tires. As for where the rubber meets the road, tires should have the same beefy qualities as the wheels they go on. Seat weight should not enter into the equation. Many prefer the tried-and-true cantilever stays, rims, and brakes that accommo- Beefier tires not only save you money and type. While I’ve only ridden a few days date wide tires are the primary consid- give you superior handling quality, they with disc brakes, I was instantly drawn eration. How wide? It depends on what are less prone to flats. And keep a close eye to their superior stopping power. Many surfaces you’ll be riding and, you guessed on the rear tire. It wears faster and is often people will speak about the pros and cons, it, your personal preferences. Here we’ll covered from sight by fenders and gear. with the most apparent drawback being focus on 700C tires, since 26-inch wheels When it comes to velocity change, most susceptibility to damage, though these are best kept for trails. While light touring people gravitate toward acceleration. Given brakes are getting to be nearly bullet-proof on smooth roads, you can get away with how much momentum has to be brought to these days. No matter what kind of rim 25-millimeter tires. Tackling rough roads a stop, the the focus should be on decelera- brakes you use, if you’re descending steep with big loads? 35 millimeters should be tion. So how do you best stop your big rig? mountains, you should stop periodically your minimum. As with wheels, saving With highly-leveraged, dependable brakes. to check how hot the rims have become.

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12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 13 Otherwise, you’re in for a not-so-nice sur- prise when the tire pressure becomes too high and the tire too pliable. Fortunately for this author, the load wasn’t too heavy when his tire blew, and surprise, he sur- SYNCRO 10 vived with only a small scar. MULTI-SPORT / CYCLING / VENTILATED BACKPANEL What about the creature comforts? We handful of imaginary bike design- ers could go on and on about things such ospreypacks.com SEE SYNCRO IN ACTION as drop handlebars giving your hands so many more pressure-relieving options than almost any other handlebar configuration. But alas, we’ve spent so much time talk- ing about things critical to a safe journey, that you’ll have to scour other articles in Adventure Cyclist to pull out comfort-relat- ed tips. But hey, if you read this magazine, you’ll know the biggest challenge to get- ting (and staying) on the road is getting the fundamentals right. So get out there and do what it takes to make the right purchase so you can finally hit the open road!

John Wider is a 53-year-old spacecraft engineer living in the Los Angeles area, which he claims is more bike friendly than most people think, especially paths near the beaches. He has owned almost every kind of bike there is, racking up over 80,000 miles, with most of those on PHOTO CREDIT / Ben Knight his 1996 Trek 520.

12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 13 TOURING BIKES FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION We’ve tried to limit this table to true touring bikes and light tour- custom versions, with varying costs associated. No prices reflect ers only — not bikes that might make good touring bikes. Many shipping costs. of the bikes in this table come in several configurations, including

611 Bicycle Company ($11000 and up). Custom Innerlight Cycles Hand- Moots Vamoots (various Raleigh Bicycles Sojourn Handmade Touring model available for all models. crafted Touring H1 and 26” configurations: $3195 and ($1200) and the Port ($2275 and up). sixeleven cyfac.fr, +33 (0)2 47 24 H2 (Click on Options for price up). moots.com, 970-879- Townsend ($850): www. bicycleco.com, 540-929- 67 42. list). innerlightcycles.com/ 1676. raleighusa.com, 800-222- 0611. hybrid.htm, 530-795-3454. 5527. offers a line of Motobecane Gran Tour- Ahearne Cycles Custom nine touring models from the Ira Ryan Cycles Touring ismo ($800). bikesdirect. Rando Cycles Basic Touring model ($750 de- £599 Vantage to £1799 Ultra model (custom only: $2300 com/products/motobecane/ (€999), the Camper posit). ahearnecycles.com, Galaxy. dawescycles.com. and up) iraryancycles.com/ gran_turismo.htm. (€1999), the Globe- 503-473-2102. bikes/tour, 503-810-2504. Trotter (€2999), the Tourer Devinci Caribou 1 & 2 Mt. Airy Bicycles Carries (€1999), and the Voyager Volpe ($1200). ($949 & $1549). devinci. offers three many hard-to-find and clas- (€3999): rando- cycles. bianchiusa.com/bikes/road/ com, 888-338-4624. touring bikes with chromoly sic touring models. They fr (click on Liste des valor), steel/volpe, 510-264-1001. frames including the classic have access to the remain- +33 01 43 41 18 10. Site Ellis Cycles Lugged Tour/ Aurora ($950,), the Aurora ing Koga Miyata touring in French. Steel Randonneur ($3,400 and Elite ($1600), and cyclo- models. www.bike123.com, Midlands ($3700 and up); up). elliscycles.com, 262- cross-inspired Bosanova 301-831-5151. Raleigh Bicycles Sojourn S&S coupled Travel versions 442-6639. ($1275). www.jamisbikes. ($1200) and the Port ($3850 an up); Tourlite com, 800-222-0570. Naked Bicycles Hand- Townsend ($850): www. ($3545 and up). bilenky. Fuji Touring model ($1119). crafted Grand Adventure raleighusa.com, 800-222- com, 215-329-4744. fujibikes.com/bike/details/ Kona Sutra ($1499), a models Basic ($1595); 5527. touring5, 800-631-8474. steel tourer with mechanical Americano ($2495); Globe- Boocycles Boo T (bamboo disc brakes. konaworld.com, trotter ($2295; Stainless: Bikes Pan- with integrated rear rack: Gilles Berthoud Highly- 360-366-0951. $3295); Deutsche (Rohloff: orama (£1249); Journey $3215 and up). boocycles. customizable 26-inch and $3995). Custom also avail- (£1149); and Voyage com, 515-554-9226. 700C steel touring bikes Kross Trans Sander, Trans able. timetogetnaked.com, (£849). ridgeback.co.uk. (€1875 and up): www.gilles Arctica, Trans Pacific, and 250-285-3181. Bowen Bicycle Works berthoud.fr (English also), Trans Global (all models Rivendell Bicycle Works Custom Touring frame, fork, +33 03 85 51 46 51. 1519 PLN and up). kross.pl, Nashbar Double-butted Atlantis (frame, fork, and headset ($2195). bowen- 029 722 44 45. Aluminum Touring Frame headset $2000), Hunqapil- bicycles.com/TOURING. GT Peace Tour ($850). ($99-$199). nashbar.com, lar, a touring-trail bike (frame, html#, 860-836-9765. gtbicycles.com/Peace-Tour, Littleford Custom 877-688-8600. fork and headset $1800); 800-843-2453. Bicycles Standard custom touring frames Brodie Elan ($1649); Tourer ($3220); Classic by REI Safari ($3,500 and up). rivbike. Argus ($1299). brodiebikes. Gunnar Bikes Rock Tour, Tourer ($3990); Urban ($899), Randonee ($1199), com, 800-345-3918. com/2012/bikes/speed.php, a 26-inch mountain bike Utility ($4725); Sport and light touring Verita 604-325-2033. designed for loaded touring Tourer ($5025); Randon- (1199). rei.com/novara, 800- Roberts Cycles offers the and the Grand Tour, a tra- neur ($5150); Expedition 426-4840. Clubman (£995), Transcon- Bruce Gordon Hand-built ditional 700C touring (both Rig ($5495). Many options tinental (£1050), Cumbria 700C Rock ‘n Road Tour $1025 and up). gunnar available including frame Pake C’Mute frame ($260). (NA), Roughstuff (£1100), and 26-inch Tour-Ex ($2999; bikes.com, 262-534-4190. sets. littlefordbicycles.com, pakebikes.com/product/ and Women’s Compact Tour with racks $3349; frame 503-922-1934. F8EF09/C’Mute+Frame. (£995). robertscycles.com, & fork $1600); and the Hewitt Cheviot (£425); Opus Touring; Legato, Largo +44 (0)20-8684 3370. factory-made BLT – Basic Cheviot SE (£625); Gram- LPY Cycles Touring Frame (PNA). opusbike.com/en/ Loaded Touring (fully loaded pian (£899). All models and fork (£350). www. bikes-5-road.html. Rodriguez Bicycles $1725; basic $750; frame frame & fork. Rohloff avail- lpycycles.com. Adventure ($1,899 and up); & fork $500). bgcycles.com, able. hewittbikefitting.co.uk, offers the S&S-equipped ($2,699 707-762-5601. +44 01772 424773. Marioni Tourismo ultra-classic Clubman Coun- and up); the Willie Weir ($875/$1000); Tourismo try ($2,695). britishbicycle. co-designed UTB (Ultimate Co-Motion Cycles 700C idworx Bikes A variety of Extreme ($925/$1050). com, pashley.co.uk, +44 Touring Bike from $2,099); Americano ($3845); trekking bikes with Rohloff marinoni.qc.ca/html/Touring. 01789 292 263. Custom models with Rohloff Americano Rohloff with Gates hubs and Gates belt drives, html, 450-471-7133. ($3999 and up). rodcycle. ($5200); 26-inch Pangea including the Easy Rohler, Pereira Cycles Touring and com, 206-527-4822. $(3845); Pangea Rohloff with Off Rohler, and Easy Mariposa Touring and Bikes (frame Gates ($5200); 29er Divide TiRohler ($3400 and up). Randonneur frame and fork & fork: $2700; complete Salsa Vaya TI complete ($3925); Cascadia ($3845). idworx-bikes.de, +49 228 (Custom only: $1950). bike: $3900). www.pereira- bike ($2999); TI frameset co-motion.com, 866-282- 184700. Site in German. mariposabicycles.com, 416- cycles.com, 503-333-5043. ($1999); Vaya 2 (complete: 6336. 423-0456. $1699; Vaya 3 complete: Peter Mooney Cycles/ ($1350); Vaya 2/3 frameset: Cyfac Replica ($2600 and Independence touring and Mitch Pryor Bicycles Belmont Wheelworks ($599); 29er Fargo (titanium up); RandoNerv ($2600 the Club Racer light-touring (map) Custom touring Touring and Randonneur complete: $3299; titanium and up); Vintage ($3500 frame sets (steel $2295; frameset ($3000 and up). models ($2650 and up). frameset: $1999). Fargo 2 and up); Integraal ($4800 titanium $4095). www. mapbicycles.com, 503-285- peter-mooney.com, 617- (complete: $1749; frameset and up); Custom Horizon ifbikes.com, 603-292-5673. 0446. 489-3577. $599); Fargo 3 (complete:

* PNA = price not available at press time 14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 15 Reflecting on 20 years of touring memories $1399; frameset: $599); Tout Terrain Full-sus- Casseroll (complete: pension Panamericana $1199; frame/fork/front (€3890 and up); Grand rack: $599). salsacycles. Route (€2790 and up); com, 877-668-6223. Silkroad (€1990 and up). en.tout-terrain.de, +49 761 Santos Travelmaster 20551000. ($1549 to $3399); Trekking ($1639 to $3399), Trekking Trek 520 ($1,479.99). Comfort ($1999 to $3699), www.trekbikes.com, 800- Trekking Lite ($1749 to 879-8735. $3599), and Travel Lite ($3299). santosbikes.com, True North Cycles 26”, +31(0)252 426123. 700C, or 650B models from expedition to light Expat; Ex- touring; many options pat S; Expat SL (frame only available ($1500 and up). $2095; $2795; $3595): truenorthcycles.com, 519- sevencycles.com, 617-923- 585-0600. 7774. Vanilla Bicycles Touring Soma Fabrications and Randonee models. Heavy duty Saga Touring Wait time currently over 5 (frame and fork $500), years. www.vanillabicycles. and the Tradesman Cargo com, 503-233-2453. front loading frame ($699): somafab.com. Velosmith Jota ($A6360), Cyclotouriste ($A4650), Spectrum Steel and and Great Southern titanium custom touring ($A4650). Custom also. Call or email to get bikes ($2850 and up). Available in Australia only. spectrum-cycles.com, 610- velosmith.com.au, +61 BIKE FRIDAYSINCE 1992 our latest catalog 398-1986. (0)3 6266 4582. 800-777-0258 // BikeFriday.com PROMO CODE: 1854

Steelman Cycles Steel Velotraum Konzept custom touring bikes (€1300 and up). velo- ($2750 and up). steel- traum.de/system/velotraum- mancycles.com, 650-364- konzept, telefax: (07033) 3939. 81505. Site in German.

Surly Long-Haul Trucker Waterford Cycles T-14 (LHT frame: $469, bike and T-22 Adventure Cycle Spring is $1275; Deluxe frame models (all bike custom $849) and the 26” Troll built, check for pricing). (frame: $430, bike: waterfordbikes.com, 262- $1399). surlybikes.com, 534-4190. 877-743-3191. in the Windsor Bicycles offers Sycip 26” or 700C steel the steel touring bike, the Touring (produc- Tourist ($1,495): windsor tion and custom models: bicycles.com. air. $1295 and up): sycip.com, 707-542-6359. Note: The June issue of Adventure Cyclist will cov- Terry Bicycles Valkyrie er non-standard bicycles Tour (hand built by Wa- and will contain a table of terford Precision $3500). tandems, recumbents, fold- terrybicycles.com, 800- ing bikes, and more. 289-8379.

Thorn Cycles Expedition Nomad (£2099 and up); Raven (£1949 and up); Sherpa (£1330 and up). Rohloff hubs and Gates drives available. All bikes can be completely outfitted. PDFs online loaded with information on all models. thorncycles.co.uk. www.co-motion.com

14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 15 A Two-Wheeled Gap Year for Grown ups We all know that feeling — a two-week cycling tour is winding down and it’s back to the grindstone. The freedom and simplicity of bike touring comes to a crashing halt, and suddenly...

Story and photos by Amaya Williams

16 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 17 ... you’re overwhelmed by an onslaught of from “real life” and go cycle touring rarely ture. That includes the initial purchase of emails, deadlines, and meetings. presents itself. If you know in your heart high-quality touring bikes, tent and gear, “Why can’t I just keep on pedaling?” that a world tour is something you’d like to computers, cameras, electronic gadgets, air- you ask yourself. accomplish, set the project in motion now. line tickets, insurance, health-care costs, Well I’ve got good news for you. You food, clothing, and accommodation. probably can. Step 2: Start saving and budgeting That amount of money is less than the Round-the-world touring is all the rage. for your bike tour. Most people are average U.S. family makes in one year. We Since 2006, when my husband and I began curious about how we managed to save spent that amount over five years, travel- our ongoing global bike tour, we’ve crossed enough money to be able to quit our jobs ing through almost 80 countries on five paths with students and seniors, construc- and embark on a multi-year cycling tour. continents. tion workers and consultants, couples There’s no big mystery to it: we lived sim- Most couples find that $15,000 to with toddlers in tow and bankers between ply and saved. $20,000 is enough to cover the entire cost jobs. All were enjoying the freedom of an Being frugal is no longer something of a year-long bicycle tour, depending on extended two-wheeled adventure. shameful. In fact, given the current eco- where they travel. Solo travelers can prob- In part the Internet is responsible for nomic situation, living below your means ably tour comfortably for 12 months on the growing number of cycling enthusiasts is quite fashionable. around $9,000 to $12,000. crossing continents. Much of the mystery of If you can slash big-ticket items such how to manage an extended leave from “real as rent or mortgage payments, savings will Step 3: Get geared up. A snapped frame life” has been dispelled as cyclists blog about grow more quickly. Canadians Karen and or a busted rim is the last thing you want their adventures and share practical tips on Michael (twowheeledwanderers.ca) moved when you’re stranded on some high moun- everything from how to plan a route across in with his mother for almost a year in tain pass miles from civilization. Asia to the art of wild camping. order to boost savings by eliminating rent If you’re planning a long tour, it’s prob- Tales from Alastair Humphreys, a young expenses. Sheila Poettgen and Kai Forlie ably worth it to invest in a quality touring Brit who completed his 46,000-mile round- (2cycle2gether.com) re-evaluated their pri- bike. Touring bikes are specially designed the-world tour in 2005, convinced me that orities and designed their own economical to support the extra weight and stress of I too might have a shot at pulling off a long- Tiny House. Nancy Vogel and family (fami- heavy baggage. Mountain bikes are not. distance bike tour. lyonbikes.org) rented out their mortgage- Despite over 60,000 miles of wear and Now I’d like to convince you — whether free home in Idaho to help finance their tear, my sturdy Koga Miyata World Traveler you’re an absolute beginner to bicycle tour- South America tour. When Scott Mullins is still going strong. Although the $3,000 ing (as I was) or a lifelong cyclist — that (powercycle.net) found himself out of work price tag seemed steep initially, the invest- you can do it too. in Florida, he wasn’t yet tied down to a ment in a dependable touring bike was one Setting off to cycle around the world mortgage and could easily slip off on a of the best decisions of the trip. (Check out may sound daunting, but I assure you it’s round-the-world tour. the Buyer’s Guide on page 10 for tips on within reach for most individuals. Sure, Our trick was to discipline ourselves to finding the right bike for your ride.) there’ll be sacrifices. But for those who dare live on one paycheck instead of two. Many long-distance cyclists we meet to take the plunge, a multi-month cycling confess to having spent far too much time tour offers an unforgettable adventure that Budgeting: How much is enough? fretting over the best water bottles to will be physically demanding, mentally How much you need to save depends on buy or which travel pillow to purchase. challenging, and immensely rewarding. how you want to live while touring. Are Although it’s important to equip yourself Although all the nitty-gritty details of a you comfortable stealth camping and self- with quality gear — stuff that will keep round-the-world trip are beyond the scope catering or is your idea of fun a cozy bed you warm and dry, and won’t fail after of this article, I’d like to touch on some of and breakfast, dinner on the terrace, and the first 1,000 miles — there is no need to the basics of long-distance touring abroad. wine tasting in the afternoon? get the latest ultra-light, super high-tech, I won’t talk too much about gear-related If you’re traveling with a partner, be insanely- expensive equipment. issues as this information is widely avail- brutally honest with each other about your The bottom line: keep it simple. Invest able on the Internet. Instead, I’d like to needs, expectations, and budget limitations in quality gear that will hold up through- focus on a few broad concerns. before you set off. out the tour but don’t get sidetracked by all Some cyclists (usually solo guys under the bells and whistles. Step 1: Commit and set a departure 30) manage to scrape by on around $10 per date. This first step is crucial. Without a day. Most cyclists prefer to upgrade from Step 4: Outline a route. If you haven’t firm goal in mind, your bicycle dream is ramen noodles and camping out behind traveled much beyond the borders of the likely to get shoved off further and further gravel pits to a few comforts and occasional U.S., planning a route in some far-flung into the future until you suddenly realize pleasures. region of the world might seem over- you’re too old, too busy, or have too many In our first five years of travel — whelming. It needn’t be. commitments. between 2006 and 2011 — our total expen- Intrepid adventurers have been criss- The perfect moment to take a break diture was around $50,000. Total expendi- crossing the planet by bicycle since Thomas

16 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 17 9 Tips: Things we’ve learned along the way

Tip #1: Get travel health insurance. shower instead of a quick dip in a river, you’re bored out of your brains, exhausted Why take chances? For $70 each per or throwing in the towel and hopping on beyond belief, or just plain fed up with life month, we’re covered for everything from a truck when the headwinds in Patagonia on the road. Accept this and you’ll be bet- minor illness to repatriation in the case of became unbearable. ter equipped to soldier on when the going a major medical emergency. The cost and Finally, I realized I was chasing some- gets rough. benefits of travel insurance vary greatly; body else’s dreams. Attempting to mold this is one area in which it pays to research myself into a hard-core adventurer would Tip #7: Understand the basics of bike your options. never bring me happiness. Finding the maintenance and repairs. Although you don’t need to be an ex-bike mechanic Tip #2: Find the right partner (and to keep your machine running smoothly, maybe that means going solo). Nothing you should be able to execute some will ruin a tour quicker than an incompat- basic repairs. A simple YouTube search ible touring partner. Can you really func- will turn up scores of informative vid- tion with another human being by your eos detailing everything from repairing side 24–7? a flat to replacing the bottom bracket. There are some notable excep- Other solid resources include Biketutor. tions (the teams from revolutioncycle. com, the Park Tool Big Blue Book of ie, ridingthespine.com, and cyclingsilk. Bike Repair and The Bicycling Guide com), but the fact is few friendships to Complete Bicycle Maintenance and can withstand the strain of bicycle tour- Repair by Todd Downs. ing. Couples usually fare better, but I Don’t worry about mastering all the ins and outs of your bicycle. In develop-

can think of more than one big breakup G R EG SI PL E brought on by a bicycle tour. ing countries, you’ll discover amazingly Give your relationship with your poten- right rhythm, your personal right rhythm, is inventive locals who are able to fashion tial partner a serious assessment before the key to staying happy on a bicycle tour. ingenious solutions to any problem from a committing to a major bike tour. Do you Some go slowly while others race around broken bike rack to a snapped frame. work well together as a team? Are your the world. One’s no better than the other. individual strengths complementary? Are Tip #8: Learn a little of the local lan- your physical abilities evenly matched? Tip #5: Embrace hospitality networks. guage. I firmly believe it’s possible to How does your partner handle stressful Not only are free hospitality networks, such cycle through any country on the planet situations? Can you laugh together? Do as couchscurfing.org and warmshowers. without speaking the local language. Sign you have the same touring rhythm in mind? org, a great way to stretch the budget, language will cover most basic needs such they’re one of the best ways to get to as eating, sleeping, and quenching your Tip #3: Balance out cycling with other know a culture and better understand your thirst. More complex ideas (“I don’t eat activities. It’s surprisingly easy to get surroundings. Some of my fondest tour meat” or “Where is the bank?”) can be burned out on . Cycling sud- memories come from the time we’ve spent communicated by pointing to a sentence in denly loses its zing, and you might as well with the 200 families who have hosted us a phrasebook. be back behind a desk. everywhere from Nicaragua to Namibia. But by learning the local language, even We all need mental stimulation. Cyclists a few words, you’ll have a much richer develop many strategies to stay sane and Tip #6: Slow down. Although you may experience. Languages are far easier — balanced on the road. Many plan their tour have no problem knocking off back-to-back and cheaper — to learn during an intense, around a theme or project. Mel and Kate hundred-mile days at home, cycling abroad in-country, full-immersion course. Whether (cyclingsilk.com) explored environmen- is usually better suited to a more leisurely you decide to spend two weeks at Lake tal conservation as they cycled the Silk pace. One of the greatest joys of cycle Atitlan, Guatemala, honing your Spanish Road. Anna and Dave (permacyclists.com) touring is being able to stop and chat or a month getting a handle on Chinese in took a look at permaculture in Africa, and with the locals when the mood hits you, Yangshuo, the time spent will provide big Peter Gostelow (thebigafricacycle.com) wandering through a market you stumbled payoffs during your bicycle tour. gives presentations at schools as he rides across, or silently meditating on the great through Africa. natural beauty that surrounds you. Tip #9: Plan ahead for your re-entry. Being constantly on the go, and expos- One day, your bike tour will come to a Tip #4: Ride your ride and nobody else’s. ing yourself to novel environments can be close, and you’ll want to be prepared. At I spent the better part of four years being stressful in itself, and adding ambitious dis- first, you may feel a bit blue after all the down on myself for not being as hard core tance goals can spell disaster. Slow down excitement of visiting new countries and as certain cyclists. I’d berate myself for and allow yourself to soak it all in. seeing the world slowly change as you wanting to call it quits after six hours in Bicycle touring isn’t non-stop fun cycle by. With time, most people readjust the saddle instead of 10, longing for a hot and adventure. There will be days when to the world they left behind.

18 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG Stevens circled the globe by bike way back in 1886. Today, many cyclists use historic routes established in the days of Marco Polo, even before bicycles were invented.

Asia Light A favorite for first-timers is Southeast Asia. In six months, you could eas- ily bike around Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia, Indonesia, and even take in a bit of southern China. Sure, there’s the tropical heat to contend with, but you can always head to the interior highlands to cool off. Cyclists flock to this part of the world for the excellent cuisine, cheap and ubiquitous accommodation, varied terrain, and fasci- The masked cyclist. Williams’ husband Eric Schambion battles extreme conditions. nating cultural sites. Bolivia’s desolate altiplano, conquered high of meeting some of the warmest people The Pan-American Highway Andean passes, and surely found yourself on earth and riding through landscapes If you can carve away a larger slice of awestruck at the stunning landscapes of that range from dense tropical rain for- time for your tour, riding the entire length Patagonia. est, wide-open savannah, and wind-swept of the Americas is within reach. Set off If you want to save on airfare or are short on deserts, to rolling hills covered in forests of from above the Arctic Circle at Prudhoe time, set off from home and start cycling south. eucalyptus. The 12,000-kilometer ride from Bay, Alaska, in June and arrive in Ushuaia, Cairo to Cape Town is the continent’s most Argentina — the southernmost city in the African Adventure popular route. An adventurous spirit is an world — 18 months later in December at Africa was the first continent we toured absolute must on this nine-month trip. the height of the South American sum- by bicycle, and it will always remain my mer. You’ll have gotten a taste of some 22 favorite. It’s a place where you can expe- Crossing Continents: Eurasia countries, survived a few bear encounters rience solitude and silence like nowhere Why not build up your strength and on Canada’s Cassiar Highway, experienced else on the planet. You’ll have the privilege confidence in Europe where things are

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ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 19 fairly familiar, before heading to Asia and on airfare could go a long way on a trip a clash with culture shock? If you can through Europe if you can pick up a $500 finagle a year away from the desk, Britain round-trip flight to London. to Bangkok or to Peking enters the realm of possibility. • Seasonal climate conditions. Yes, Trundle through quaint European villag- there’s the odd cyclist who enjoys the chal- es before facing the rigors of cycling Central lenge of taking on Tibet in the dead of win- Asia. After conquering the Pamir, prov- ter or cycling Thailand during the typhoon ing to yourself you can tough it out along season, but most of us prefer more moder- desolate sections of rough road, you’ll be ate weather. Check out climate-charts.com rewarded with the easy life as you complete for detailed information. your tour in Thailand or China feasting on some of the best food on the planet. • Type of terrain conditions. Do you Route options are boundless, but a cross- enjoy rugged mountain passes, lonely des- continent trip is generally done in around erts, and remote roads? Or are tamer spots six to 12 months, covering between 9,000 with smooth highways leading to notable and 12,000 miles and around 25 countries. places of interest and a comfortable hotel at the end of the day more your speed? Which route is best for you? Some cyclists thrive on constant physical Just as there is no single best touring challenge whereas others embrace a gentler bike, there is no single best bike-touring adventure. One isn’t more legitimate than route. Each region has its highlights and the other, so listen to your body and choose challenges and will appeal to different the level of challenge that suits you. types of cyclists. tion or end up speaking only with locals Things you’ll want to keep in mind • Ability to communicate. If you speak who know some English. In East Africa, when choosing a route are: Spanish or are keen to learn, South America you’ll find plenty of English speakers, but is an obvious choice. Asian languages are head over to West and Central Africa, and • Airfare cost. Sure, Southeast Asia is notoriously hard to pick up, so you’ll French is much more widely spoken and cheap you get there, but $2,000 saved more likely rely on non-verbal communica- will be more useful.

20 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 21 Step 5: Get a handle on health, bank- ing, blogging, and bureaucracy. Getting the right vaccinations, learning how to access bank accounts while you’re abroad, setting up travel insurance, starting a blog, and arranging visas — there’s a lot to think about before you set off for your world tour. Fortunately, with the advent of the Internet, these chores have all become a whole lot easier. • Staying healthy. It is imperative that you plan ahead and start getting vaccina- tions well before your tour’s starting date. If you’ll be riding off the beaten track, a rabies vaccination should be a top priority, and cyclists heading into tropical regions should consult a medical professional about anti-malarials. • Money matters. With the exception of Iran and Nigeria, your ATM card will get you cash in almost any country in the world. ATM machines can be finicky and Tougher than the Tour de . Locals cheer Eric up a steep climb. those magnetic strips do fail at times, so be sure to carry at least two different bank • Potential for hassles. Although the it isn’t unknown for African officials to cards and ones hooked up to both the Visa world is hardly the dangerous place fear- attempt to wheedle a bribe out of a bicyclist, and Mastercard networks. In addition you mongers make it out to be, there can be an and on occasion riders are robbed on remote will always want to have a stash of dollars unpleasant side to bicycle touring. Visas for routes in Central and South America. Are on hand to change at out-of-the-way bor- Central Asia are notoriously hard to obtain, you prepared to deal with these risks? der crossings. Carrying a small amount of

20 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 21 traveler’s checks can act as a backup in case ting your passport, and then waiting for a press.com); deciding whether to rent out something goes wrong. few days to pick up your passport stamped your home, leave it vacant, or search for a • Sharing your adventure. Blogs are with the visa. house-sitter; finding suitable storage space easy to set up, and they’re a fun way to Most often you will apply for the visa (I have a brother-in-law with an extra-big keep in touch with family and friends back of the country you intend to visit in the garage); quitting your job or negotiating a home as well as connect with fellow bicycle capital city of a neighboring country. You leave of absence; and, finally, making sure travelers. Wordpress.com is a good choice will be granted a length of stay (usually there’s a plan in place for re-entry. for a free blog that offers attractive designs 30, 60, or 90 days), single or multi-entry and is simple to use. and a validity period (time frame in which Step 7: Say goodbye and set off. If • The vagaries of visas. Your main the visa must be used). It is impractical to you’ve already got a good chunk of sav- bureaucracy issues while abroad will be of apply for all the required visas in advance ings, steps one through six can be accom- the visa variety. Travel to western Europe, as some will expire before you reach your plished in six months or less. Although Japan, Korea, Australia, New Zealand, and destination. we knew we wanted to take time to travel most of Central and South America is gen- Visa procedures and requirements Africa, my husband and I didn’t start toy- erally straightforward for U.S. passport change frequently. Up-to-date information ing with the idea of a bicycle tour until holders who are usually granted a three- can be found online at visahq.com. late 2005. By June 2006, we were on the month stay upon arrival. Many popular road pedaling toward Cape Town. tourist destinations in Southeast Asia — Step 6: Put your life on hold; sell, No matter what the time frame, the such as Thailand, Indonesia, and Cambodia store, and get rid of stuff. Many cyclists, key to actually setting off on a round-the- — grant American visitors 30-day visas on like Sonya and Ali from www.tour.tk, rel- world bicycle tour is committing to a date arrival. ish the freedom of selling everything and of departure. Even if your send-off party is Things get trickier in Central Asia, many setting off into the unknown. still three years down the road, fix the date parts of Africa, much of the Middle East, Others want the security of knowing and it will keep you focused. and countries such as China, India, and there’s a home base to return to. Putting Taking a year (or two!) out doesn’t have to Vietnam that have a penchant for bureau- your life on hold means hunkering down be a career stopper. Marketing the qualities cracy. In these countries, you will have to and ticking off tedious tasks like canceling and skills acquired while on the road — com- apply for a visa in advance. This means fill- subscriptions and memberships; finding a munications, negotiation, creative problem ing out some paperwork, attaching a photo, home for pets (unless you bring them along solving, perseverance, teamwork — will be paying a fee (around $50 to $100), submit- like Zoa and Fin of cyclinggypsies.word- the key to nabbing the job you want.

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22 ADVENTUREAdvCyclistAd_HalfPg_bike12.indd CYCLIST APRIL 12012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 12/16/11 1:40 PM ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 23 Once you’ve settled back into station- ary life, you can keep the adventure alive by remaining active in the on-line cycling community and helping others live their bicycle dream or by giving talks at local schools or community groups.

Now’s the time. I hope I’ve convinced you that a two- wheeled gap year for grown ups is within the realm of possibility. We all know how quickly time passes, and most of you are probably convinced of the importance of creating experiences for growth. What bet- ter way than taking a year off to see the world from the saddle of your bicycle? You’ll have to stretch way out of your comfort zone, but the payoff is a once-in- a-lifetime experience few people will ever know.

Amaya Williams and her husband Eric Schambion are on a quest to cycle every country on the planet. Since 2006, they’ve pedaled more than 60,000 miles across 80 countries on five continents. You can follow their ongoing round-the-world tour at worldbiking.info.

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22 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 23 A WORLD OF IMAGES

24 ADVENTUREUnder CYCLIST a makeshift APRIL 2012 shelterADVENTURECYCLING.ORG in Punjab, India. ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 25 A WORLD OF IMAGES PHOTOS BY PETER GOSTELOW

24 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 25 1

n 2005, I finished a job teaching 2 3 English in Japan with one thing in mind; I was going to cycle home to IEngland. I’d been staring at a world map for long enough, imagining what it would be like to cycle in adventurous places like Tibet, Pakistan, Tajikistan, and Iran. The result was a three-year, 50,000 mile jour- ney. A year later, I began The Big Africa Cycle (thebigafricacycle.com) — 30,000 kilometers and more than 30 countries. -Peter Gostelow

1. Through the Fouta Djallon mountains during the rainy season in Guinea, West Africa; 2010. 2. Trawling through bike junk in rural Cameroon; 2011. 3. Landmines the ground on the unofficial border between Morocco and the Western Sahara. No camping or toilet stops here; 2010.

specialist for bike tours in Central Europe Visit Central Europe – a paradise for cycling Surprising density of ancient castles Vienna to Prague Greenways & fairy–tale chateaux Salzburg to Prague Beautiful and varied countryside Vienna to Krakow Amber Trail Excellent network of paved backroads Budapest to Krakow Amber Trail Quality accommodation

Easy and convenient self-guided tours Passau to Vienna Danube Trail Guided tours with local guides Vienna to Budapest Danube Trail 8-day to 10-day tours Prague to Dresden

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Czech Republic Slovakia Austria Hungary Poland

26 ADVENTUREinzerat_Top_bicycle.indd CYCLIST 1APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 15.2.2008 16:51:31 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 27 1 1. The ancient city of Merv in Turkmenistan was once an important trading center on the ancient Silk Road. In an area of the country with very few tourists, the crum- bling remains stand alone and neglected. 2. Lhasa’s Potala Palace in Tibet, the spiri- tual home of the Dalai Lama, is a must-see sight for those who’ve made it to this magical part of the world; 2006.

2

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1. Wild camping above the Salween River in eastern Tibet. Spectacular views usually come guaranteed when camping in this high-altitude part of the World; 2006. 2. Laos has some of the quietest roads and greenest scenery in all of South East Asia. No wonder it’s popular amongst touring cyclists; 2006. 3. Dirt tracks and high temperatures make cycling in Northern Mozambique a sweaty challenge; 2011.

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28 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 29 3 The Clubman Era has returned

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1. Zanzibar off the Tanzanian coast in East Africa has some great opportuni- ties for cycling at low tide along pristine white beaches; 2011. 2. The dry season in Cameroon makes dirt roads very dusty; 2011. 3. Magical sunrises like this one over the Himalayas in Nepal are worth getting out of your sleeping bag for. On Christmas morning, it was the best pres- ent I could have asked for; 2006.

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30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 31 Passing Down the Bike by Eric Butterman

It’s natural to want your kids to ride ing. Dad’s big ride was from Pittsburgh to on one of the Adventure Cycling tours in bicycles — but how do you share that Washington, DC, and back on his fixed Montana on the Great Divide. We never love without smothering them? gear. I looked at his scrapbooks. He had pushed so hard that he felt he had to do it There’s a moment that comes when a to give up cycling when he enlisted in the and we started to see he was more inter- kid encounters their first major hill. This Navy when World War II started, so here ested in skateboarding and things on the is where they’re cycling and, in a way, I was discovering something about my computer. He found common interests in they are being tested. Do you stop and father I didn’t know that well. He told me his own group of friends. Today he’s here walk it up or do you try? Just try … about the and riding 100 in Missoula and he has bikes but they’re There they go. They’re slowing down miles in a day. To me it hanging in our garage.” but they’re still fighting. was amazing.” Still Siple doesn’t seem to say this with They’re slowing down — it In fact, his father’s so much sadness; more contentment in could go either way — then you yell out:

Push! Push! Push! And somehow, by the skin of their bike chain, they make it over. That is one of those wonderful moments where the metaphor is as clear as the sweat on a kid’s brow. But the question is — when have you push-push-pushed too much? How do you pass on your love of cycling, expos- ing them to a potential lifetime of exercise, travel that doesn’t cost a dime and a com- munity which spans from continent to continent, without pushing them too far, away from it and maybe away from you? Greg Siple, 66, co-founder and Art

Director of Adventure Cycling Association j u ne si pl e and Tour of the Scioto River Valley Three generations. Charles Siple on his fixed gear machine in the late 1930s. Son and (TOSRV), faced that very dilemma. This grandson, Greg and Zane, during a 1995 cycle-camping ride. was especially difficult when you consider that he shared a love of cycling with his bike is on the wall above his desk in exposing his son to his interest without father. “Growing up in the 1950s and the Adventure Cycling headquarters, a forcing it on him. “I feel we played it just 1960s, every kid had a bicycle and it was Roma Olympiad, his old man’s right because he saw the day-to-day use just part of the culture — school bike very first 10-speed. So when a love is of the bike and how we could get around racks just filled by millions of kids. Of shared between father and son, it’s quite town and did that week on the Great course, those kids eventually dropped natural to hope for the same with your Divide. I don’t think you can go beyond them when they became 16. Adults, on own kids. Here’s where Siple had to learn that point.” the other hand, never rode bikes, it was a the difference between hope and reality. Siple felt if his own father had forced children’s toy and, if you did ride a bike, “My wife June and I were cautious his interest it would have most likely you were considered odd.” because we didn’t want to push it on Zane, pushed him away. He actually marvels that His father didn’t become a cyclist in the become a stage mother or father, reliv- two interests were passed down to him 1950s — for him, it was the 1930s. ing football triumphs through our son,” without much effort at all. “I acquired two “What drew him was seeing a six-day Siple says. “For six years he was in a bike things from my dad,” Siple says. “He was bike race in a Pittsburgh arena. He met a trailer almost on a daily basis, when he a draftsman working at his drawing desk handful of local cyclists and they became got a little older we had a tandem and he at home. I became fascinated with that, sat his good friends,” Siple recalls. “They was on that before he finally was on his next to him and would draw. Today I’m an started riding bicycles, racing, and tour- own bike. When he turned 15, I took him art director for a bicycle organization. It

32 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 33 goes to show you shouldn’t have to push. cook for the adults …” he says. “They go out of Hall, only one of his sons caught Just let kids be what they’re going to be.” all the way with it and learn about a lot the cycling bug. “My son Brandon is a more than just about cycling. You have to tour leader now but Chris is really into ice Hit And Miss give them the space to learn.” hockey,” he says. “But I don’t mind that. For Arlen Hall, the new tours direc- Hall says what’s important if you try They both found things they love and tor for the they’re physically active. Adventure Cycling That’s all we wanted in Association, it the end.” was a hit and miss experience Pro Perspective between his two Former pro bicy- sons. “I had them clist Chris Sheehan is on their bikes at another firm believer in four year old,” he letting someone’s inter- says. “It’s just a est in bicycling happen great form of exer- naturally — his vote is cise and you know an important one as he’s all the articles gotten to see his share of that have come kids with “stage parents” out on obesity of at the bike shop he co- Americans, espe- owns, Uptown Cycles, in cially in children, Charlotte, North Carolina. so we raised them “The funny thing is those to exercise.” Hall parents don’t realize the started leading track record for kids who bike trips for teen- are pushed too much,” he agers and preteens, says. “They never seem to encouraged his Togetherness through cycling. Shaun Decareaux, with Arlen Hall and his son Chris get very far. They usually sons to be a part of after riding the Hiawatha Trail near the Montana/Idaho border. burn out from the pressure. them, and found the I remember when I was rac- key to getting young people into cycling the tour route, is to not underestimate ing as a junior, 16 or 17, there were always was to create a strong amount of social- your child. “Some parents push them hard parents around after the finish and every- izing. “That was true to form whether 10 but others can’t even believe their kid can one was congratulating each other and I’d year olds or 20 year olds,” he says. “Some ride 30 miles — see that one parent pull liked riding, some loved the physical they don’t let a child aside and scold aspect, but it was hanging around their their kids really Quick Tips For Getting them. You’d just hate to peers without their parents that was spe- see what they Kids Involved see it. How does that cial. They even liked being around the can do,” he says. encourage anyone?” tour leaders because we weren’t their par- “Kids want that Don’t Push Sheehan grew up ents! I had very few discipline problems sense of accom- ... this leads to burnout as in San Jose, California, on the trips and there really were some plishment. I easily as trophies. and even though he was amazing conversations. They would talk remember doing influenced from seeing about what they wanted to do and who a tour from San Stress Adventure his older brother Jim they might become as adults, all along just Francisco to ... great places to travel to by compete, it wasn’t his riding their bikes.” New Jersey. We bike give more incentive for family that kept him Hall believes a great selling point to get had 3,700 miles them to try a trip. going to the local Hellyer kids involved is the adventure component, to cover. If the Park Velodrome. “I loved and the chance for them to have indepen- kids were unable Accept it,” he recalls. “It just dence. “They want to figure things out to ride, we’d let ... if it’s not for them, then consumed me. I didn’t for themselves and get through things,” them come in encourage what they are care about going to the he says. “I remember passing my son (on the van — but interested in. Who knows, they prom, I just wanted to a trip) when he was having problems with no one wanted may get into cycling later on. go to the next event.” his bike and I caught up with him later to. We stepped it Ultimately, turning pro- rather than try to solve it for him right up and rode 125 fessional in 1993 with there. We barely talked about it later and miles in a day, Saturn, he recalls the that’s how he wanted it — he was fine, and most of the kids were 15 or 16 years best way to keep motivated as a child was he didn’t need my help.” In fact says Hall, old — they’d start at 7:30 in the morning through his fellow cycling friends, not his you may find the kids want to help you. and make it by 5:00 in the afternoon.” parents. “If a kid wants to do it, they’ll “They like to cook their own meals on For all the encouragement, the trips, the do it,” he says. “Once I found it, it just these tours and they’ve even offered to enthusiasm for the lifestyle that poured became a part of my life.”

32 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 33 Share the Joy GET A CHANCE TO WIN Spread the joy of cycling and get a chance to win cool prizes

n For each cyclist you refer to Adventure Cycling, you will get one chance to win a Giant Rapid 1* valued at over $1,250. The winner will be drawn from all eligible members in January of 2013.

n Each month, we’ll draw a mini-prize winner who will receive gifts from companies like Old Man Mountain, Arkel, Ortlieb, and others.

n The more new members you sign up, the more chances you have to win!

* Bicycle model may change with release of new or updated models.

Adventure Cycling Association adventurecycling.org/joy

Adventure Cycling Corporate Members Adventure Cycling’s business partners play a significant level of support. These corporate membership funds go toward role in the success of our nonprofit organization. Our Corporate special projects and the creation of new programs. To learn more Membership Program is designed to spotlight these key support- about how your business can become a corporate supporter of ers. Corporate Members are companies that believe in what we Adventure Cycling, go to www.adventurecycling.org/corporate or do and wish to provide additional assistance through a higher call (800) 755-2453.

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34 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 35 Addy Albershardt, 17, the 2011 junior individual pursuit and team pursuit nation- al champion, actually works in Sheehan’s store and if her father, once a member of the National Team, can lay off, then it may not be bad advice for the rest. He never pushed her to be involved — and that she says, was the only way it could have worked. “At first, I hated it. I maybe rode once every two months and then he took me to more rides. He didn’t pressure me, it was for fun. At 13, I found out more about racing, and Robin Farina (co-owner of Uptown Cycles and 2011 USA Cycling National Road Race Champion) introduced me to the profession- al sport of cycling. From there I’ve basically been full-on racing.” Though Albershardt stresses the fun part, what she says is important for young Tandem tradition. Longtime Adventure Cycling members Craig and Rebecca Cassel of riders who wish to compete is to treat Hummelstown, Pennsylvania, ready to roll with their children Avery and Elliot. The family took a cycling as if it were any other sport. “Be cycling vacation in Wisconsin’s Door County last summer. ready for injuries,” she says. “Understand it isn’t inexpensive. Many start slow parents didn’t push her, she credits their back. She’d be a cycling junkie even with- which can be good — doing things like strong support in getting her this far. out any of the accomplishments that have . There are no cars so you “They like to remind me that they were followed. “When I’m out there, it just don’t have to worry about getting hit by my first sponsors,” she laughs. “They feels amazing,” she says. anything. Then, when you grow older, don’t have to pay for anything now since Sounds like the way it’s supposed to feel. you can transition into road racing or I have pro sponsors, but during the grass- track racing. Step it up as you feel com- roots times, they were there.” With almost fortable.” a full-ride scholarship to college thanks Eric Butterman has written for more than 50 publica- tions, including Men’s Journal and ESPN.com. You can Even though Albershardt says her to her talent, cycling continues to pay her contact him at [email protected].

34 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 35 ROAD TEST PASHLEY

Road Test: Pashley Clubman should you join the club? Hand built in Stratford-upon-Avon, this is a touring machine for the ages by Patrick O’Grady

If you have two bikes to transport on a rainy day, one of them a Pashley Clubman, and room for only one inside your car, there’s no doubt as to which will brave the storm atop the roof rack. Adventure Cyclist editor Mike Deme and I were on the lookout for the Clubman as we cruised the halls at Interbike 2011, hunting bikes for 2012 review purposes. And once we found the modest Pashley display tucked away at the rear of the Sands Expo and Convention Center, toff’s cycle. This you ride not I immediately fell under the to coffee, but to tea. Clubman’s dark spell. Sexy as Elizabeth Hurley, Black magic, it was. The the Clubman is as well Pashley website displays the dressed as James Bond at a Clubman in ivory or rich bur- casino. Brooks accoutrements gundy, but the 2012 model include a titanium-chassis on show at Interbike was all Swift saddle and black leather jet black and rich silver, like bar tape, complete with cork Elric of Melniboné’s armor, and wood plugs. The starkly graced with brown accents lovely GB crankset is a tip on saddle, sidewalls, brake of the bowler to the classic hoods, bottle cages, toe clips Gerry Burgess components, and straps. which UK-journalist Carlton p at r ick o ’ g ad y Yes, I said toe clips and Reid reports Pashley has straps. They’re standard Sands and toward my Subaru for the brought back to life for UK equipment, making the Clubman ready drive back to Colorado. builders in a joint venture with Burgess’s to ride right out of the box. And if that’s I had only done a cursory fit before son, Jeremy. And the understated graph- not enough blast from cycling’s past for spiriting the Clubman away from Loring ics murmur rather than bellow, a rarity you, this lugged Reynolds 531 machine — straddling it, giving it a quick tug in the modern era. also sports eight-speed, down-tube upward, and pronouncing, “I can ride this The second thing you notice is the Shimano 105 shifting and old-school bike.” Only after I got home did I notice Clubman’s stout construction, which is Gran Compe brake levers whose cables the too short, dead-level quill parked likewise unfashionable in this age of plastic swoop gracefully over the handlebars well below the saddle (I’m a geezer whose wonderbikes that weigh less than the plat- toward a pair of Dia-Compe centerpull chiropractor is on speed-dial) and the 170- inum card you need to borrow to buy one. stoppers. Bonus: The left lever brakes the mm crank arms (I recently began retreat- You may recall that the Brits invented rear wheel and the right the front — just ing to 172.5-mm from 175; I don’t recall the tank. Well, the Clubman is right up the way I like it. pushing 170s since I started shaving). there with the Centurion, which debuted The Clubman reminded me very much Loring graciously shipped a stem with in World War II and remained operation- of a Bianchi that I nearly bought back in more rise and extension, but I left the cranks al into the 1990s. the mid-eighties. I eventually went for a stock and started rolling around town. My 21.5-inch Clubman tips the scales lesser, cheaper machine and have regret- The first thing I noticed while riding at 26.2 pounds, 8.7 of which can be ted the decision ever since. So after some the Pashley Clubman was the attention found in the wheels, a pair of Panaracer discussion with Loring Kohrt of Belmont it got. I don’t believe I’ve ever had a bike Pasela Tourguard 700C x 32 tires fitted Distribution, which handles Pashley draw as many eyeballs. I could practical- to double-wall aluminum box rims laced products in the Colonies, I was rolling ly hear them click as they locked on. It’s to high-flange hubs with double-butted his show bike through the doors of the the very antithesis of a hipster rig — a stainless steel spokes. The robust stain-

36 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 37 ROAD TEST PASHLEY

Specifications: Pashley Clubman less steel mudguards add some heft too; Price: $2,695 (complete bike); $1,495 Tires: Panaracer Pasela Tourguard 700x32 it being winter, I never pulled them off (frame and fork) Front derailleur: Shimano 105 to gauge their weight. Sizes available: 20, 21 1/2, 23, 24 1/2 Rear derailleur: Shimano 105 The Pashley website proclaims that inches (center to top) Shift levers: Shimano SL-R400 indexed the Clubman “reflects on the era when Size tested: 21.5 downtube shifters Weight: 26.2 pounds with pedals Brake levers: Gran Compe traditional (non- one bike would be used for many pur- aero) TEST BIKE MEASUREMENTS poses — club cyclists would put mud- Brakes: Dia-Compe drop-forged centerpulls Seat tube: 21 1/2 inches, center to top guards and saddlebags on their bikes to Pedals: VP Components with steel toe clips Top tube: 21 1/2 inches go touring, strip all accessories off for (L) and leather straps Head tube angle: 72° the weekly club time trial, and ride to Seat post, quill stem, handlebar: Un- Seat tube angle: 73° work in between.” branded Chainstays: 17 1/2 inches Fair play to them too. If your bike Headset: Tange Levin CrMo Seat height above ground: 40 inches Saddle: Brooks Swift with titanium chassis can’t handle fat tires, fenders, and at Bottom bracket drop: 2 1/4 inches Fenders: Stainless steel, unbranded least one rack, you’re factory farm, not Crank spindle height above ground: 11 Cassette: SRAM 11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30 free range, one step from driving to 3/8 inches 8-speed your destination and cycling laps around Fork offset: 2 1/8 inches (53mm) Chain: Wippermann Connex the motel. But unless you’re racing in a Wheelbase: 40 5/8 inches Bottle cages: Zéfal Classic with brown Standover height: 32 inches Clubman-only league, you’ll have to shed leather accents Frame: Reynolds 531 butted manganese more than the accessories if you want to Bell: Universal Spring Bell molybdenum with investment-cast cutaway finish that club time trial before everyone Gearing in inches: else has gone home, showered, and had lugs; cast dropouts with eyelets for fenders 52 39 a nap. and a rear rack; two bottle-cage mounts and pump peg. 11 127.6 95.7 That said, chances are you’re less Fork: Reynolds taper gauge oval blades; 13 108.0 81.0 interested in getting there fast than in investment-cast crown; small radius bend; 15 93.6 70.2 simply getting there. On that score, cast dropouts with fender eyelets 17 70.2 61.9 there’s nothing to fear. The Clubman has Rims: 36-hole double-wall box rims, polished 20 82.6 52.7 everything required for cruising, com- aluminum, unbranded 23 61.0 45.8 muting, or an overnight tour. Spokes: 14g stainless, cross three 26 54.0 40.6 The Clubman has the same seat- and Hubs: High-flange, quick-release alloy hubs 30 46.8 35.1 top-tube angles as the Soma Saga (see the with sealed bearings, unbranded August-September 2011 issue), but consid- Crank: GB square taper with sealed car- Contact: Belmont Distribution, (602) 903- 7852, belmontdistribution.com, www. erably more fork offset and a slightly short- tridge bottom bracket, 170mm arms, 52/39 pashley.co.uk, britishbicycle.com. er wheelbase, and the steering feels a little 130mm BCD chainrings livelier. Nothing scary, mind you. And at speed, it’s as solid as the Rock of Gibraltar. my old Sidi cyclo-cross shoes. Like the inclined, though at the expense of style Shifting is crisp and quick. If you centerpulls, they go with the bike the points. And style should count for some- used downtube shifters in a previous life, way chips go with fish. Swapping them thing, yes? Cheaper, less elegant steel the technique will come right back to out for a pair of clipless pedals would machinery can be had, but not from the you. It’s not much of a stretch for anyone be a crime against Harry, England, and craftsmen at Stratford-upon-Avon, where accustomed to bar-end shifting either. St. George. And by all means, add a real 86-year-old Pashley Cycles continues to If you live in hilly country as I do, frame pump. The Clubman has a pump create and assemble bicycles it calls “dif- you may find yourself running out of peg; why not take advantage of it? ferent by design, distinct by nature.” gears now and then, especially when Given that the Clubman seems intend- The Clubman seems designed to slow carrying a load. The Clubman comes ed for casual gentlemanly outings, I’d your frenetic pace, allowing you to see with 52/39 chainrings and an 11-30 forego rack and panniers for saddle and/ and be seen. Even the refined tone of the SRAM cassette, and that 39 x 30 low end or bar bags. The bike cries out for some stem-mounted brass bell — ping-ing-ing- doesn’t offer much in the way of comfort stylish luggage, like Rivendell’s Sackville ing-ing! — evokes a desk clerk summon- on a nine percent grade. SaddleSack Medium ($200) and Sackville ing a bellhop in some tony lodgings. Going down the other side, you’ll find BarSack ($175 plus a $70 Nitto BarSack Finally, if you like the idea of a kingly the Dia-Compe centerpulls adequate. A Rack). steed but subsist on a commoner’s wages, few people had warned me against them, If you’re dead set on going the or just prefer choosing your own compo- but a panic lockup triggered by a motor- rack-and-pannier route, however, the nents, the Pashley Clubman can also be ist who considered stop signs advisory Clubman is perfectly happy to accom- had as a frame and fork for $1,495. proved reassuring. These work, and they modate that arrangement. Gentlemanly match the overall style of the bike. to the end. Patrick O’Grady has written and cartooned about cycling since 1989 for Velo, Bicycle Retailer and The VP Components pedals, clips, Silver plastic SKS P45 fenders would Industry News, and a variety of other publications. and straps suit both street footwear and trim a bit of weight if you were so

36 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 37 • d • • • • • • A• rl Vi w • • • W • • e • • o • • • • • • • • with Spokes •

David Mozer of the International Bicycle Fund and Bicycle • Africa believes in the transformative power of the bicycle

by Dan D’Ambrosio Photos by Melissa O’Hearn

avid Mozer has a hard time getting all of Mozer’s various two-wheeled inter- people to sign up for his tours to ests, including the IBF and Bicycle Africa, Africa. Bicycle Africa, the com- Mozer lists what he calls the “15 Myths of pany he founded in 1983 together Bicycling and Travel in Africa.” with the International Bicycle Fund First is the myth of the void, followed D(IBF), was designed to be the for-profit fun- closely by the myth of wilderness, both draising arm of the nonprofit IBF, which of which essentially posit that you’d have Mozer has used to spread the word of the to be crazy to ride a bike in Africa unless good bicycles can do in the world. you want to get lost or eaten. Africa is “The purpose of the International more than wildlife and vast open spaces, Bicycle Fund is to promote sustainable says Mozer. transportation and cultural understanding “Wildlife constitutes a very small part wordwide,” Mozer said in a recent inter- of Africa, and only a very small por- view. tion of Africa contains wildlife,” Mozer Mozer attributes the difficulties of sign- writes. “Africa is about people and culture: that certainly does occur in Africa, but he ing bicyclists up for his African adventures people with a long history, a multiplic- says we have a twisted view of what it’s to a variety of factors, including what may ity of complex cultures with sophisticated like on the ground in many of the countries be his own shortcomings as a promoter, governmental structures, elaborate artistic there. but believes that these are mostly out of expressions, diverse religions, ontology, “Granted, people must be selective his control. and colorful traditions.” about where they go; however, there are “It struggles,” Mozer said of Bicycle Next Mozer tackles what he calls the more choices than one can manage to get Africa. “The early 2000s were not good myths of violence and disease. The first to,” Mozer writes. “The violence associated for international travel. I don’t go to main- holds that the people of Africa are “violent with Africa is tragic, but it is also isolated stream places. People hear about problems and dangerous.” to specific geographical pockets.” in Somalia and hesitate to go to Ghana even “The exact opposite is probably closer And disease? There are a number of though those two places are in the same to the truth,” Mozer contends on his web- serious ones, Mozer says, but the chance of proximity as New York and Los Angeles. I site. “It is safer in many African capitals to contracting them is miniscule. have a love of bicycling and I have a love of take a late-night stroll than in many North “Of diseases with higher infection rates, Africa, so I keep perservering.” American cities.” easy effective prevention is available,” he On his website, ibike.org, which covers Mozer is not naïve about the violence writes. “You will be 95 percent of the way •

Man on a mission. David Mozer in his hub, where he researches and deconstructs the myths about bicycle travel in Africa.

to being safe by being current on your organizations in the U.S., Canada, and the as they imagine. Year in and year out, I go, immunizations: tetanus-diptheria, polio, Scandinavian countries. I have fun, and I return. I have seen people and measles are pretty routine.” Mozer goes on to cover myths of sani- from nine to 75 years old do the same.” The myth of pollution holds that the tation, pestilence, famine, AIDS, climate, Mozer, 57, has been a self-described water is unsafe in Africa. hygiene, civilization, and suicide, the last bicycle activist since junior high school in “Generally, African countries are less of which has to do with the way Africans Seattle, where he grew up and still lives. industrial and use few or no chemicals for drive, leading to the belief that in Africa, His introduction to Africa was through the agriculture,” Mozer writes. “The ground- bicycling is suicidal. Peace Corps in 1975, when he was assigned water in Africa can be as safe or safer than “The endless stream of negative images to Liberia. Mozer had thought he might that in industrialized countries.” of Africa is amazing,” Mozer writes in his be sent to South America, but was just as Not only that, he says, but in the past conclusion. “Even as I finish this article, I happy to go to Africa. 20 years there has been a “massive effort” have a hunch that many readers will find “I took my bicycle with me, which was to develop water resources, thanks to the one more reason for not considering Africa. unheard of in 1975,” Mozer said. “Not World Health Organization and other aid Whatever it is, I suspect it’s not as serious much bicycle touring was going on at that DAMBO IBF - 2

point — anywhere. If you wanted pan- three-year tour with the Peace Corps and niers, you found somebody in the UK to get left for his own “serpentine exploration” of you canvas saddlebags.” West Africa. His bike had served him well Graduating from Evergreen State while working for the Peace Corps, but College with a nontraditional bachelor’s for this adventure — from Ivory Coast to degree that covered history, economics, Nigeria, Cameroon, Chad, Niger, and across and “behavioral stuff,” as well as biology, the Sahara to Algeria and Tunisia, then on math, science, and teacher training, Mozer to Malta for a boat to Italy — Mozer relied taught math and science in a middle school on various forms of local ground transpor- in a Liberian village called Gorblee, a trad- tation, from to shoe leather. ing center. He hitchhiked across Europe to Austria, The second year, Mozer was in Fisebu, Germany, and the Netherlands before find- where he was more involved in developing ing his way to the UK for a flight back home curriculum, and traveling back and forth to the U.S. In Italy and the Netherlands, he to villages in roadless areas to help them was able to borrow bikes from friends, see- make their schools more effective and effi- ing for the first time in the Netherlands cient. When he was done at one school, how it was possible to have an entirely the administration would send him off to separate infrastructure just for bikes. the next school with a group of students Back in the States, Mozer applied to to guide him. graduate schools and was accepted at “I’d grown up in western Washington. American University in Washington, DC, I threw my cards to the wind and the where he started a master’s program in Peace Corps was the first thing that came applied economics with a focus on Africa. through,” Mozer said. “I tend to be a In 1981, he returned to Liberia as a gradu- sponge wherever I am. I take an interest in ate intern at the American embassy. the complexity and diversity of the world. “The day I arrived, I had more time in I didn’t know enough to be scared. I didn’t country than anybody else in the embas- work for the State Department. I tended to fixate on Hollywood images of Africa. I sy,” Mozer said. “It was good in terms of leave town every weekend instead of hang- was just going someplace to have a job.” being prepared, but it reinforced for me ing out at the bar with people.” In JanuarySchwalbe_Adventure_May10.ai 1978, Mozer completed 1 2/16/2011 his 1:14:06 PMthat I was not cut from the right cloth to Mozer says there are four main func- tions for an embassy: political, econom- ic, counseling, and general services. He served in all four areas, including what ended up being his favorite job, manag- The journey is ing a discretionary fund of $50,000 that allowed the U.S. embassy to help villages the objective. throughout the country. “I was in charge of reviewing these Not the end. requests for development, grants of $1,000 to $3,000 matched with labor in kind,” The perfectly coordinated rubber compound provides speed, durability and grip. Tread Mozer said. “If they wanted to build a C and side wall doubly protected. Roads school, they might ask for money for M become uplifting and drift easily by. Trails are sublime in their ruggedness. cement but cut their own timber and pro- Y DUREME is the most versatile vide labor. Marathon in the high tech CM Evolution series. “So I was in charge of reviewing their progress, doing site visits, making recom- MY mendations, monitoring projects, going to CY dedications. It was fun. It got me out of CMY town every weekend, and when I arrived,

K they would help me find lodging and food. It was life at its best.” By the fall of 1981, Mozer knew it was time to move on. He returned to Seattle and enrolled in a doctoral program at the University of Washington. After just one quarter, however, he wanted to get back to Africa and bicycle activism. Mozer had gathered extensive touring www.schwalbetires.com experience over the years, not only in Africa, but also in the U.S., where he had

40 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 41 DAMBO IBF - 2

passed on the Bikecentennial ride of 1976 more of a problem recruiting new people,” grants to grassroots or community-based that formed the seed for the Adventure he said. “I don’t seem to be able to pique organizations undertaking unique initia- Cycling Association, to follow his own people’s interest, but a couple of repeat tives in less developed economies,” Mozer path. clients have done a dozen trips.” writes on the IBF website. “We have been “I wasn’t a joiner,” Mozer said. “People Bicycle Africa tours are not inn-to-inn particularly active in sub-Saharan Africa. have more or different kinds of imagination and don’t use five-star accommodations, Some of IBF’s support has gone to train- than me. I couldn’t imagine getting hun- but they are “very friendly,” Mozer says, ing welders in Zimbabwe to make bicycle dreds of people to bicycle across the U.S.” with “good immersion and good food.” Josh trailers, supplyling bike parts to Eritrea, To prepare himself for offering a tour Lehman, now bicycle-pedestrian coordina- supporting a youth mechanics training pro- in Africa, Mozer joined the most remote tor for the state of Massachusetts, based gram in Ghana, supporting the Pan-Africa bike tour happening at the time, a ride in Boston, is among the “small corps” of Bicycle information Network, and donating to Mongolia that included former Seattle people who believe in what Mozer is trying bikes to Cuba.” bicycle coordinator Josh Lehman and for- to do with bikes in Africa, but that hasn’t Today, Mozer is beginning to organize mer Adventure Cycling board member and made it any easier for him. tours in his own backyard, a “cultural” Seattle bike-shop owner Angel Rodriguez “He said, ‘Hang on, people will get it,’ tour, for example, from Seattle to Victoria. and his wife, Carla. almost 30 years ago,” Mozer said. “I’m still He tries to bring his own belief that the “It was fascinating,” Mozer said. “I fig- waiting.” bicycle is a means and not an end — a ured out what I liked and didn’t like. One Mozer may be waiting, but he is not means to incorporate “education, knowl- thing I didn’t like was support vehicles.” standing still. One visit to the IBF website edge and experience, clean living, and Mozer began advertising his first Liberia makes that clear, with its wealth of infor- sustainability.” trip for December 1983. He created a bro- mation on subjects ranging from urban IBF and Bicycle Africa are extensions of chure, took out an advertisement in the planning, facility design, rural mobility, his personality, says Mozer, which never Bicycle Paper, a Seattle publication that’s traffic safety education, energy conserva- caused anybody harm and never made still around, and some other papers, and tion, and responsible tourism. As Mozer much money. got “two or three” sign-ups. Bicycle Africa writes, the one common element of every- “I could be idealistic, maybe to a fault,” has more or less struggled along with low thing IBF does is the bicycle and under- he says. numbers ever since, but Mozer has never writing its proliferation. given up and he does have some very loyal “Because of limited resources (both labor Dan D’Ambrosio is a staff writer for the Burlington clients. and funds), most of our material and finan- Free Press in Burlington, Vermont, and the former editor of Adventure Cyclist magazine. “I have good repeat participation. It’s cial support is provided as small matching ©2011

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44 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 45 BAVARIA and NORTHERN ITALY — A blend TIMBERLINE ADVENTURES — Fully sup- Bike the Florida Keys — The ultimate of bicycling, culture and history. First Class ported bicycling & hiking adventure vaca- Bicycle Vacation. Bike the entire key sys- hotels and fine regional cuisine. Individual tions with an organization whose sole focus tem, down and back. Fully-supported includ- pace, optional distances, support van. Our for 26 years is extraordinary adventure ing breakfasts and most dinners. Beautiful 39th year! GERHARD’S BICYCLE ODYSSEYS. throughout western U.S. & Canada. Website: sunsets. Swim with the dolphins. Snorkel. (800) 966.2402. www.since1974.com. www.timbertours.com Email: timber@earth Dive. The Seven Mile Bridge just might be net.net Phone: 800-417-2453. the most beautiful seven miles you will ever EUROPE — 200 ROUTES IN 30 COUNTRIES bike. November 3-10, 2012. Details from — Bike Tours Direct - Guided and self-guid- CROSSROADS CYCLING ADVENTURES BubbasPamperedPedalers.com or BikerBubba@ ed tours with European bike tour companies. — Celebrating 16 years of excellence! Come aol.com. It’s just not a bicycle tour, it’s a Keys Weekly and daily departures. Tours from ride with Tracy Leiner - owner, cyclist and EXPERIENCE … It’s all GOOD !! $600. From familiar - Loire Valley, Provence, tour director. Tracy travels with every group, Danube, Tuscany, Bavaria, Ireland - to exotic everyday managing daily logistics, driving Vacation Bicycling — “After taking more - Croatia, Greece, Turkey, Slovenia, Adriatic support vans and pedaling with her cyclists. than 90 bicycle tours, Vacation Bicycling is island-hopping. 877-462-2423 www.bike Small groups, personal attention, superior one of our top 10 experiences!” We provide toursdirect.com. [email protected]. accommodations and meals. Extensive pre-trip beautiful 7-day tours from $1099, includ- support including training plan and telephone ing hotels, food & SAG through Martha’s BIKE ITALY WITH SICICLANDO! — Join us consultations. Rider reference list available. Vineyard/Cape Cod, NC Outer Banks, Maui, in June! Discover the undiscovered places of (800) 971-2453 www.crossroadscycling.com. Arizona’s Sonoran Desert, Florida Keys and Tuscany on our Maremma Bike Tour depart- Canada’s Prince Edward Island. Come join us! ing June 24. Enjoy rolling hills as you make ALL RIDES ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL — 800-490-2173 www.VacationBicycling.com. your way to the sea. Explore the beauty of Challenge yourself riding 400+ miles and Sicily’s baroque region and bike Mt Etna. climbing 30,000’ through the Scenic Byways CYCLE AMERICA® COAST‑TO‑COAST — Tour departs June 5. www.siciclando.com or and National Parks of the West. 714-267-4591 Enjoy a Fully Supported Cycling Vacation this call 1-800-881-0484. www.cyclingescapes.com. Summer. 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We are a specialist for bike tours in This year it’s back to the Berkshires with 2 all Madison, GA. 33rd Annual Bicycle Ride Central Europe since 1996. We concentrate only new routes each day. Spectacular views, chal- Across Georgia, June 2-9, 2012. Great fun for ADS on the countries where we live: Czech Republic, lenging arrowed routes, quaint towns, muse- families and groups. Various mileage options. Slovakia, Austria, Hungary, Germany, and ums, history and local culture. Most meals, 770-498-5153, [email protected], www.brag.org. Poland. Visit and ride between the beautiful cities SAG, refreshment stops, maps & cue sheets. of Vienna, Prague, Budapest, Krakow, Salzburg, www.MassBikePike.org or 617-710-1832. CLASSIC ADVENTURES since 1979 NEW!! Dresden, and Passau. Carefully planned self- COAST TO COAST 2012 — Fully supported, guided tours. Small guided groups with local RIDE TWO STATES-TWO COUNTRIES — hotels, guides. Also Austria, Lake Constance, knowledgeable guides. 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Our tours are — (April 13-15, 2012) Washington, NC – You dip your rear wheel into the Pacific and in Alabama, Mississippi, Georgia, Tennessee, Enjoy unique waterfront camping and cycling your front wheel into the Atlantic, I will and Florida. 3 to 7-day tours. www.recum on scenic country roads in Coastal North do everything in between. March 8 – April benttours.com. Carolina. Register for 1, 2, or 3 days. Various 29, 2013. BubbasPamperedPedalers.com or mileage options for all skill levels from easy [email protected]. WOMEN ONLY BIKE TOURS — For all family to challenging century. Additional ages and abilities. Fully supported, inn-to- lodging options are available. Fully support- AMERICA BY BICYCLE, INC. — Your full inn, bike path & road tours. Cross-country, ed with SAG Support and rest stops. cyclenc@ service bicycle touring leader. Chose from 38 National Parks, Europe & more. Bicycle work- ncsports.org, www.ncsports.org. tours ranging from 5 to 52 days. Let us take shops, wine tasting, yoga. Call for free cata- you on your dream ride — Coast to Coast! log. 800-247-1444, www.womantours.com. abbike.com. 888-797-7057 FREE CATALOG. continued on next page

44 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 45 JUMP

2012 Vermont Bike and Brewery RAINSTORM™ — July 16-21, 2012. Need Challenge — Cycle through the Green coast-to-coast preparation? Try five cen- classified ads Mountains and taste some of the best beer in the turies over five days, with a 160-mile ride continued country, visiting half the breweries in the state. on day six. Inn or motel accommodations, Coming this June. More at mountmajor.com. air conditioning, free WiFi, seven catered meals. Contact: 812-333-8176; [email protected]; THE GREAT ALLEGHENY PASSAGE AND September Escapade™ TRIRI® — or www.triri.org. C&O CANAL — 334.5 continuous trail miles September 16-21, 2012. Scenic, historic tour from Pittsburgh to DC; custom or group tours; of southeastern Indiana with inn or camping CYCLE NORTH CAROLINA FALL RIDE includes B&Bs, inns, excellent meals, luggage overnights at Indiana State Parks, two layover — 13th Annual “Mountains to the Coast” shuttle, full sag support, vehicle or people and days, and ten catered meals. Contact: 812-333- (September 29 – October 6) — Cycle 450 plus gear shuttle; attractions including Frank Lloyd 8176; [email protected]; or www.triri.org. miles while experiencing the North Carolina Wright’s Fallingwaer, Antietam battlefield plus countryside on scenic back roads amidst beau- so much more... Call Trail Gail at 301-722-4887 MONTANA BIKE HOSTEL & CAMPING tiful fall colors. Explore quaint towns, visit 240-727-7039 or www.mountainsidebiketours. — Tour Glacier Park & Northern Tier, famous State Parks, Historic Sites, wineries, and net You Pedal, We Pamper.” Continental Divide Routes. Lodging & more. Fully supported with SAG Support and Camping, Custom Cycling Tours Shuttle or rest stops. Various registration options avail- Ride Two States - Two CountrieS — sag service, Airport, Amtrak & Border PU. able. [email protected], www.ncsports.org. Six day, 350-mile fully-supported Rotary ride Explore Montana’s Spectacular Flathead September 17-22, 2012 on the International Valley! 406-755.2204, Facebook, robertbev- Around Wisconsin Bicycle Tours Selkirk Loop, incredible Scenic Byway [email protected], www.montana — Flavors of Wisconsin July 9-14. Ride through Washington, Canada, Idaho. www. bikehostel.com. bike, eat cheese, taste microbrews. Northern WaCanId.org or 888-823-2626. Registration Woods and Water. August 20-25. Cycle opens Mar. 1 – limited to 100 riders. Scenic Cycle Tours — Come cycle and paved forest roads. Stay in historic lakefront explore the beauty that Canada’s landscape lodges. and swim in quiet lakes. www. Vesta Velo Cycling Tours for holds, The Great lakes, Niagara Region, mighty aroundwisbike.com 920-427-6086. Women — Come cycle and be pampered rivers. Supported cycle tours of beautiful in the majestic White Mountains of New southern Ontario, Quebec and feature loca- Oregon Memories — When it comes Hampshire. We offer two- and five-day tours tions. www.sceniccycletours.com. to dazzling combinations of show-stopping with exceptional rides & equally excep- landscapes and world class cycling, it’s hard tional accommodations and cuisine. July- CAROLINA TAILWINDS BICYCLE to beat Oregon. Whether you’re looking for September. www.vestavelo.com. VACATIONS — Easy, flat terrain tours include: the magnificent volcanic vistas and deep for- South Carolina’s Lowcountry, North Carolina’s est of the Cascade Region which can be found Touring Ride in Rural Indiana® Outer Banks, and Maryland’s Eastern Shore. on our Cascadian Traverse or you’re looking (TRIRI®) Bicycle Rallies — June 10-13, More challenging, mountainous tours for the craggy coastlines and sandy beaches 2012. Loop rides with a theme from a sin- include: Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley and of our Oregon Coastal Odyssey, we have the gle Indiana State Park, with camping or North Carolina’s Blue Ridge Mountains. All perfect Oregon tour for you. www.advent inn accommodations and six catered meals. tours include intimate group size, cozy coun- urecycling.org/tours (800) 755-2453. Contact: 812-333-8176; [email protected]; or try inns, and outstanding cuisine. www.caro- www.triri.org. linatailwinds.com; 888-251-3206.

Your bicycle helmet counts as a hard hat

Building the home of Adventure Cycling requires lots of help from our construc- tion crew, our staff, and our generous donors. To learn how you can make your LIKE A GIANT POP TART A structurally insulated panel is lifted onto mark on the future of bicycle travel visit: the steel framework of the Adventure Cycling headquarters expansion. The www.adventurecycling.org one-foot–thick panels with an R value of 50 are just one of the energy conser- /donate_today vation features of the new construction.

46 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 47 OPEN ROAD GALLERY

Open Road Gallery feet firmly on the pedals by Sarah Raz Photographs by Greg Siple

Reine Wiley came through Adventure Cycling’s headquarters in July of 2009, accompanied by three old friends. The group was traveling from Portland, Oregon, to Portland, Maine, to celebrate 25 years of touring together. They’d become friends at a Church Bicycle Camp in the mid 1980s and ridden together every summer since, all over the U.S., Canada, and Europe. “I didn’t start cycling until I was 42 and it ran away with me,” says Reine. “I became confident that I could meet chal- lenges: climb Mt. Evan, the Rockies ditto, Mesa Verde, all with my own strength.” Their trip across the U.S. went smoothly. At the end of the tour, Reine went in for a checkup to see about some stomach trouble she’d been having. To her complete shock, she was told she was in stage four of a rare Neuroendocrine cancer and was given five months to live. Since discovering the cancer, Reine has undergone numerous treatments and nine surgeries. Her doctors told her that she wouldn’t have survived the operating table if it hadn’t been for her strong physical condition due to cycling more than 10,000 miles a year regularly for more than 20 years. Although Reine is still technically in stage four cancer, she feels blessed by the love of the cycling community as well as her family and friends. Reine used to ride 30 miles every morning before work. “I love feeling nature, the rain, the snow, the weather. I grin when I see rain coming. I’m not kidding you.” Although she can’t manage as many miles these days, she still tries to get out as much as possible. She says, “My trip across the U.S. was the highlight of my cycling life. There’s nothing like a great shower and a peanut butter sandwich after a mountain climb. I just turned 67, and Alaska is my new horizon. I have to improve a bit, but I won’t give up as long as I can put my feet on my pedals and breathe fresh air.”

From Adventure Cycling’s National Bicycle Touring Portrait Collection. © 2012 Adventure Cycling Association.

46 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 47 Adventure Cycling Association Non-profit P.O. Box 8308 U.S. POSTAGE Missoula, Montana 59807-8308 PAID Adventure Cycling Association

TransAm, Van • May 19 - August 9 A long Sierra Cascades • May 26 - July 25 Red Rock Ramble, Inn to Inn • June 2 - 8 Great Lakes • June 9 - 19 Cape Cod Pilgrimage • June 16 - 23 list for Finger Lakes Loop • July 1 - 10 Glacier-Waterton • July 8 - 17 Adirondack Loop • July 28 - August 6 the Cascadian Traverse • August 4 - 14 Selkirk Splendor • August 11 - 20 Atlantic Coast • August 14 - October 18 long Black Hills, Inn-to-Inn • September 1 - 7 Great Lakes, Inn to Inn • September 15 - 25 Southern Tier • September 15 - November 18 road Florida Keys • October 27 - November 6 www.adventurecycling.org/toursmag CHUCK HANEY