Voice of the Glacier Park Foundation ■ Winter 2005 ■ Volume XIX, No. 1 Remembering J. Gordon Edwards

Gordon is standing on Thunderbird Peak looking toward Kintla Perak after a storm on August 31, 1956. (Bob Megard Photo)

Also in this issue: • Finding Old No. 98 • Running the PBX in the 1950s

The Inside Trail ◆ Winter 2005 ◆ 1 Farewell to Gordon Edwards Dr. J. Gordon Edwards, author of A Climber’s Guide to Glacier National Park, died on the trail on August 19,2004. Dr. Edwards was 84 years old. He was a legendary mountaineer and one of the most distinguished and famous figures in Glacier’s history. Dr. Edwards was setting out on a climb of Divide Mountain when he col- lapsed and died. He was with his wife Alice, his inseparable companion on Glacier’s trails and peaks for more than 55 years. Their daughter Jane was leading a climb of Mt. Cannon at the time of her father’s death. Dr. Edwards leaves behind many hundreds of Glacier friends. Despite his fame, he was unassuming and wonderfully personable, always willing to discuss mountaineering with the greenest novice. Dr. Edwards was a Glacier Park Foundation member from its beginning in 1980. He frequently wrote for The Inside Trail. This issue features a special memorial section dedicated to him.

Gordon Edwards leading a group on the Ptarmigan Wall, as always the consumate host, freely sharing magical places with those of us who had the incredible good fortune to share time with this gracious host. (Dave Shoup) photo Glacier Park Foundation Officers: P.O. Box 15641 John Hagen, President Minneapolis, MN 55415 Einar Hanson, First Vice President The Inside Trail takes its www.glacierparkfoundation.org Carol Dahle, Vice President - Membership Mac Willemssen, Secretary name from the famous old Board of Directors: Tessie Bundick, Historian trail which connected Gla- Tessie Bundick Jim Lees, Treasurer cier Park Lodge with the Laura Chihara Rolf Larson, Inside Trail Editor vanished chalets at Two Janet Eisner Cornish Medicine, Cut Bank, and St. Carol Repulski Dahle The Glacier Park Foundation was Joyce Daugaard formed by Glacier Park employees Mary. The name thus em- Glen Elvig and visitors who have a deep love for phasizes the publication’s fo- Lee Flath this special place. The Foundation is commited both to the importance cus on the lore and history of David Gilbertson of wilderness preservation and to the Glacier National Park. We John Hagen importance of places like Glacier Einar Hanson as classrooms where people can invite submission of histori- Paul Hoff experience wilderness in intense cal, scientific, or anecdotal Mark Hufstetler meaningful ways, learning not only a love for the land, but also a respect articles, commentary, poetry, Jeff Kuhn that nurtures the skills necessary to or artwork for publication in Linda Young Kuhn preserve that land. The Founda- future issues. Rolf Larson tion has a special interest in Glacier Leroy Lott Park’s history, traditions and visitor Greg Notess facilities. Mac Willemssen

2 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail GLACIER BULLETIN BOARD The Inside Trail welcomes not only The Ubiquitous “Reds” A Fateful Coin Flip articles, but also brief letters and anec- My wife and I recently toured New I met my husband when he came dotes. Here are a few which were sent England and stayed a couple of days hitchhiking through Glacier in to us recently. at the Trapp Family Lodge near 1952. He had flipped a coin to Farewell to Mark Tyers Stowe, Vermont. They have a gift determine which route to take back shop (of course), and among other to Vancouver, Canada. We married Mark Tyers’ many friends and fans things we bought a CD of the Von a year later. from Hootenanny days of 1973-75 Trapp children – who are carry- will be saddened to know that this Harriet Stapleton (Glacier Park Lodge ing on the family musical tradition world lost a great musician last June, 1952) – singing Christmas songs. When when he stepped out onto Heaven’s we got home and were sorting Kudos to the Inside Trail Peaks, followin’ the Drinkin’ Gourd, through our purchases, I noticed after a long illness. I’ve lived all over the U.S., relocating something very familiar on the back with my husband’s job, and you have Kathy Tyers (MGH 1973-75) of the Von Trapp CD. Sure enough, always been able to find me with The A Wedding Invitation two pictures of the kids sitting and Inside Trail. For this I am eternally standing in front of – a Glacier Park grateful. My one summer at Glacier Fellow gearjammer Emily Slagle red bus! We’re everywhere! was terrific and I would have come (#87) and I (#101) will be getting back but had already graduated from Paul Reinhard (Gearjammer 1959-61) married on June 25. My thanks to college and my parents thought it Leroy Lott for recruiting me to be a Generations in Glacier would be good to take me off the jammer! Anyone that shows up at Our granddaughter, Lindsey Fifield, dole so I would be motivated to find the wedding in an old red is wel- worked the front desk at Many a real job. Being the parent of a col- come. Glacier in 2003-04. Her mother lege freshman, I now see the wisdom Brad Dieringer (Gearjammer 2000) Martha was at St. Mary in 1974. of their ways. Reunion with Red Bus #105 Betty (her grandmother) worked the I’m pitching long and hard for my dining room at Many in 1946-47. I spent two years of time-consum- kids to work at the park by telling Betty’s uncle, Olie Landkamer, drove ing labor acquiring gearjammer stories of friends, hikes and fresh one of the first buses to the Logan lists and organizing the first-ever mountain air. This would also give Pass Dedication in July 1933. That decades-wide reunion of drivers of me an excuse to come back and is almost four generations in Glacier! the red busses in June 2002. I was visit. Keep up the good work, keep sitting in the lobby of Glacier Park Leo and Betty Schneider. sending info, and I’ll keep reading it while dreaming of the day I retire Lodge listening to the dedication Reunion Plans speeches when my wife, Billie, sent and can take one of the red buses Many Glacier employees of 1967- a messenger to get me to join her into the park and bore the pants off 68-69 are planning a big reunion at outside at the front driveway. To my the new drivers with my tales of yes- Many in 2007. Plan to attend – let’s great surprise, there sat my bus from teryear. All my best from Missouri bring back an alumni Hootenanny! 1950 (number 105), surrounded by (formerly Texas (4 cities), Ohio, a beautiful, large blue ribbon cov- Keith Bearden (Many Glacier ’67-’68) Louisiana and Alabama). ered by a layer of thick white snow. Challenging my Bus Number Trisha (Wiggins) Lee (Many Glacier With no coat, wearing my Ford-is- 1973) sued long sleeve “Once a Gearjam- I’m still around – now 84 years old! mer, Always a Gearjammer” shirt, I I hope to match my bus number commenced the photo celebration. (97) before I leave. I’m from the What a wonderful Christmas in Glacier Park class of 1942 – how June! many are left? Joe Funk Leroy Lott (Gearjammer 1949-50) The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 3 Remembering Gordon Edwards . . . An Anthology

Dick Schwab Robert Megard John Hagen Edward Sanman III Dave Shoup Jana Hjelmseth Baker and Jacquie Hjelmseth Fennel (Photo by Larry Burton. 1939-2004. Overlay route map is a drawing by Gordon Edwards Rolf Larson from “A Climber’s Guide to Glacier National Park,” reprinted with permission of the Glacier Natural History Association)

4 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail Adventures with Gordon Edwards By Dick Schwab (MGH 1947-52) I think the best eulogy my family The following selection of diary entries give an could make for our great friend, immediate sense of Gordon as someone who had Gordon, is already in my Glacier adventure built into him and who generated diary, which records the happy and exciting days of grand adventure unforgettable memories for all who knew him. we enjoyed with him, Alice, and Jane over the past thirty years. The grasshoppers and Gordon with his Perhaps it was Jane, in conjunction following selection of diary entries net and kill jar. We peered over the with someone else, who knew how give an immediate sense of Gor- cliff to see the milky color of Cracker to pull the skin on the skull together don as someone who had adventure Lake straight down below. so the two sides of the gash matched well, and then secured the cut with built into him and who generated John Mauff’s Fall unforgettable memories for all who a “butterfly” dressing that kept the knew him. Spread over a genera- Wed. 9 July 1978: This was one of wound tightly closed. John, with tion of good times, these notes bear our more memorable expeditions in his amazing tolerance for pain and witness to the kindness, generos- Glacier. Gordon, Jane, John Mauff, almost casual attitude toward acci- ity, and humor of Gordon’s lively Joe Steffen, Randy Kay (the Many dents of this kind, sat quietly talk- spirit, which made all our hours with Glacier dance band leader) and I ing with us for awhile, taking some him so pleasurable and memorable. started out on a beautiful day, climb- nourishment in the form of a candy Whenever I read them over I smile ing to Snow moon first and then bar or so, and then insisted we plod and think how lucky we were to up the ridge to the east overlook- forward to the summit. have known this great man. ing Cracker Lake. From there we ascended a cliffy pitch and got onto Gordon, worrying about going back down the cliffy side of Allen to Snow These notes bear witness to the kindness, Moon, etc., decided we should cut generosity, and humor of Gordon’s lively across the great western scree slope of Allen on the Josephine side and spirit, which made all our hours with him so make our way through that terrible pleasurable and memorable. but safe jungle of alders along a steep stream that eventually intersects the upper trail on the eastern side of Red Grasshoppers and Red the long, long upper ridge. I think Lake Josephine. John, always game Argillite this is what Gordon, Alice, and Jane and amazingly stoical, although have called strolling along the great perhaps not quite with his usual Wed. 25 July 1973: Mark [our son, 12 “Tightrope in the Sky” which is a sure-footedness, weathered the de- years old], Gordon Edwards, John much higher ridge than any other scent remarkably well. I went ahead Mauff, some others, and I went up on either side, offering magnificent crashing through the alders, finding Gordon’s route to Schwab Falls [on views all over the Park. routes around little cliffs along the the stream flowing out of Snow Moon waterfalls of the creek. It was a hot Lake]. From Snow Moon we climbed As we were going up a fairly gentle and sweaty operation. The alders up a shoulder of Mt. Allen that looks slope with cliffy outcroppings, John, served as cushions and obstacles to over Cracker Lake. Gordon put Mark who was walking and talking with be pushed through, and so although to work catching the red grasshoppers Joe Steffen, lost his footing, toppled it was quite safe it was also quite that matched the red Grinnell argil- over backward, and sustained a very a travail to get down this way. To lite on the slope. It was a wonderful nasty cut on his forehead. We all make things a bit worse, there was a scene: Mark and Gordon catching the rushed down to administer first aid.

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 5 Remembering Gordon Edwards continued rumbling of thunder as a big storm but she sustained only abrasions and other side to the Ptarmigan trail. seemed to be approaching us from tore a fingernail or so. Of course We decided this is what we would the west, and occasionally we felt a she was pretty much shocked. We have to do now, and after a bit of a heavy drop of rain. A real downpour fed her candies and checked her out. rest we began the slow ascent to- would have made for bad footing, The problem was how to get her out ward the cleft. Everyone gathered but with good luck we finally broke of that very awkward place on the close to Carolyn like worker bees through to the trail before the storm wrong side of the wall. around the queen, guiding her every hit. John casually suggested as we step. But we did not know exactly Gordon remembered that once he, got to the trail that we all make for what it would be like on the other Alice, and Jane had been over there, the grill to have a beer! side. Someone made the mistake of and the two ladies had some reason muttering, “I dread to think what The “High Rollers Club” to get back early. They had climbed we’ll see when we get to the top.” If up through a cleft in the wall that Tues. 31 July 1979: This was one of Carolyn heard this she did not lose did not look too hard to get to, the all-time great adventures during spirit, but seemed to pick up energy and they made their way down the our time in Glacier – and nearly a the more we climbed. major misadventure. Gordon, Joe Steffen, Worth and Carolyn Moffat, and I set off with several others on a beautiful day on Gordon’s Helen Lake Overlook Goat Trail. This spectacular trip starts above and to the right of the Ptarmigan Tunnel, weaves around behind the Ptarmigan Wall, up and down, and along ledges through splendid country with the grandest views. We were in sight of the amazing narrow goat trail high above Helen Lake on the way to Ahern Pass, when suddenly Carolyn tripped and started rolling down toward a cliff. Everyone was shouting at her to spread her arms. For a while, from the angle where I stood, I could see the top of her blond head as she sped along like a rolling pin toward a cliffy section. Joe was experiment- ing around like a human fly on a cliff above and was shouting at her Gordon leading a group along a Goat Trail on the Ptarmigan-Ahern to spread her arms, and Worth was route. The Edwards called this route the “Great Tightrope in the Sky“. rushing along after her. Suddenly Gordon, as always leading, is disappearing into the mist at the front, she sort of flipped and ended up while Jane is at the rear wearing her trademark straw hat. This picture is sitting dazed with her back against from a different trip than the one mentioned in Dick’s story. However, a rock outcropping. We were sure Dick and his son Mark were also on this adventure. You can see their silhouettes in the middle of the group. (Rolf Larson photo) she must have broken some bones,

6 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail When we got to the top it was clear the sunset and the gathering night, to protect ourselves from the cold that it would not be terribly difficult dreaming up all sorts of details, blasts. There are good views every- to descend if we engaged in careful officers, mottos, anthems, hymns, where on this mountain, and we had route-finding. Gordon fashioned a etc., for the High Rollers Club. The a peek at Goat Lake down below, sort of rope leash for Carolyn. He chaplain was to be called the Holy approaching the lip of the cliff above had her go ahead of him, while Roller, etc., etc. Alice took notes on it carefully so as not to get blown others stayed in front of her, and it all, and we thought it was pretty over it. we began the adventure of getting amusing. Hymn: “When the Roll is When we got down to the road at down to the trail. My job was to be Called Up Yonder.” Drinking song: Sunrift Gorge, Gordon talked with a the route-finder, and it turned out “Roll Out the Barrel,” etc. couple from Massachusetts who had that there were quite easy ways to Mass Climb of Mt. Clements taken the Siyeh Pass hike from Siyeh get through the cliffy parts and then Bend, and he graciously offered the to traipse down the scree and steep Wed. 18 July 1990: Gordon led the amazed husband a ride back to re- grassy, bushy slope to the trail. It Glacier Mountaineering Society on trieve his car. I quietly let him know was amusing to look around and see an amazing trip to the summit of who Gordon was as we both got out Carolyn gamely making her way in Clements, along the new, longer, of the car at Siyeh Bend, and he, front of Gordon who was holding lower cliff-hanging goat trail on the having been a ranger elsewhere, was onto the rope carefully so as not to north side that he found the previ- much impressed. A milkshake and jerk her off balance but to give her ous year. There were forty-six people charburgers revived us at St. Mary. support if it were needed. on this hike, and he and Jane man- aged to get them all through in good Sparks on Mt. Siyeh We all were quite exuberant when shape. I note on my calendar that Fri. 24 July 1998: A group from we got back to the trail. And so it it was a “perfect day.” Gordon is to the Glacier Mountaineering Soci- turned out to be an unforgettable be seventy-one years old this August, ety made the huge expedition from and victorious day. We had a “Gator and he could still wear us all out! Ade Orgy” at Ptarmigan Falls, which was the first good water source on the way back. Worth broke out his Whenever I read [my notes of these days], endless supply of Gator Ade mix. We all congratulated Carolyn for her I smile and think how lucky we were to have grit. known this great man. In any case, Carolyn joined the ranks of the “High Rollers,” an informal club we established for those who A Gale on Goat Mountain Wynn to Siyeh – including Gordon had been involved in episodes such Tues. 26 July 1995: I had a wonder- and Alice. Gordon soon will be as this. There are many distin- seventy-nine! They ran into a vary guished members among us. And ful first climb of Goat Mountain with Gordon, Alice, and Jane in dicey electrical storm, with lots of most of us have qualified as well for sparks and crackling and buzzing on the title of “Rolaids,” who are those bright but exceptionally windy weather. We had a happy time talk- the summit of Siyeh, but no harm who help the High Rollers get down. was done to them. One night Gordon, Alice, Jane, and ing and joking all day. The wind I spent a good share of the evening was so intense it nearly blew us flat over in the lounge of the hotel next at times. We had lunch behind a to the dining room, looking out at little fort of stones near the summit

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 7 An Ascent of Thunderbird Mountain

Suddenly, we were in bright sunlight. The wet rocks, crusted with colorful lichens, sparkled around us. (Bob Megard photo)

By Robert Megard (Many Glacier a goat trail that followed a scree- us, beyond Boulder Pass, two of the 1953-57) covered ledge all the way across the highest mountains in Glacier Park, mountain’s east face. We followed Kintla and Kinnerly peaks, were Thunderbird Mountain, an isolated it until we found a wide, steep gully emerging from the mist. Snow fields rock spire in northwestern Glacier through the cliffs, and were surprised on their southern flanks were sunlit, Park, attracted Gordon Edwards again when we scrambled to the top but their summits were still shroud- attention as a rare opportunity for a of the gully and found ourselves on ed. Kinnerly resembled an erupt- “first ascent” in Glacier. He thought the summit ridge. We had persisted ing volcano as cloud appeared to be it may have been overlooked, not during an exceedingly unpleasant spewing from its conical summit. climbed previously because it is day, enticed by the prospect of a first All was sunlit still farther north, as located in such a remote part of ascent. Our enthusiasm faded as we the waning storm moved eastward. the park and, at 8,800 ft, not espe- approached the summit, where we could We tried our best to capture the cially high. From vantage points see a cairn built by previous climbers. spectacle around us on film. on neighboring peaks, he also saw that it might be a challenging climb, Suddenly, we were in bright sun- Gordon also thought our ascent of with no easy routes to the top; other light. The wet rocks, crusted with Thunderbird was especially memora- climbers may have been repelled by colorful lichens, sparkled around us. ble, but for different reasons, which steep cliffs that support the summit Below us, Thunderbird Glacier also he recounted in issue 21 of the ridge on all sides and threaten severe was bathed in sunlight, but farther Journal of the Glacier Mountaineer- exposure on potential climbing routes. east, toward Mt. Cleveland, all peaks ing Society published in 1990, with were still shrouded in black clouds. words copied from his field notes for The weather was awful, but we were A lightning flash and an instanta- August 31 and September 1, 1956. surprised to find that the ascent of neous thunderclap made us crouch He led the morning naturalist’s hike Thunderbird was easy. The last part, low near the summit cairn. North of to Grinnell Glacier on August 31 through mist and fog, was along

8 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail and ran all the way from the glacier Kinnerly back to his cabin at the Swiftcurrent resembled Ranger Station. He picked up Tom an erupting Landis (a fireguard) at Swiftcurrent volcano and me (a bellhop) at Many Glacier as cloud Hotel and we headed north in his appeared to be spewing car, across the International Bor- from its der to Waterton, for our assault on conical Thunderbird. The distributor failed summit. and the car stalled, but we fixed it (Bob Megard and arrived at Waterton too late for photo) the afternoon boat we planned to take to Goat Haunt, at the far end of Waterton Lake. We planned to spend the night at the Goat Haunt Ranger Station and get an early start the next morning for the hike to called Waterton and located a man ascent of Thunderbird. It was too Brown Pass and the climb up Thun- who had a boat. Slim was found late in the season; few tourists were derbird. Instead, we took in a movie in a bar, but agreed to retrieve us coming now, student employees were and camped at Waterton. Then we for a fee of $5.00. After our return leaving, and the hotel was closing took the morning launch, which to Waterton, we drank coffee and down for the season, although there battled fierce wind and whitecaps for milkshakes at the little café. About was always the ominous possibil- 10 miles all the way to the head of 11:00 pm, we left Waterton for the ity that we would not be invited the lake. We were now far behind border crossing, which had closed back next year. Gordon and family schedule but determined to attempt for the night about two hours before probably left for California within a the climb, so we “hiked eight miles we got there. Everything looked few days to begin another academic to Brown Pass and climbed Thun- dark on both sides of the border, but year at San Jose. I also left, to begin derbird in snow squalls and tremen- we parked and went around to the graduate school at the University of dous winds”, as we reconnoitered American side, where we saw a light New Mexico, which I had decided the route he described later in his in a rear room. The boarder guard on partly because Albuquerque was Climber’s Guide. was in his pajamas, but he dressed, much closer to mountains than were We arrived back at Goat Haunt unlocked the gate, and let us across Minneapolis, Madison or Ann Arbor. ranger station, soaking wet, about 8 the border. We got home to Many Gordon’s photographs of mountains pm, long after the last boat had left Glacier Hotel and Swiftcurrent with really changed my life after I first saw for the return trip across the lake more than enough time to get to them during one of his naturalist’s back to Waterton. The ranger’s wife work in the morning. lectures three years previously. I was gave us hot chocolate and crackers. We probably didn’t need to worry a photographer for the college news- We were told that there was a new about losing our jobs if we had been paper and news bureau. I had seen telephone connection, so the ranger late for work after our miserable many landscape portraits of moun- tains on calendars and above sofas [Gordon] led the morning naturalist’s hike to in mid-western living-rooms. Other Grinnell Glacier . . . ran all the way . . . back to naturalists in Glacier Park showed mostly pictures of pretty mountains his cabin at the Swiftcurrent Ranger Station. He viewed from valleys, but never had I picked up Tom Landis and me at Many Glacier seen such fantastic topography until Hotel and we headed north in his car . . . to Gordon’s photography, in such vivid kodachrome colors, from vantage points Waterton, for our assault on Thunderbird. so high above the rest of the world.

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 9 Adventures Real and Vicarious with Gordon Edwards By John Hagen (Many Glacier 1970-80) out in Many Glacier’s Lower Dorm. Like thousands of others, I’ve also Employees in several rooms along had the pleasure of vicarious climb- I got to know Gordon Edwards dur- the front of the building were being ing with Gordon. The Climber’s ing my first two summers working devoured at night by microscopic Guide has summoned up images of as a counter hand at Many Glacier pests. Gordon identified them as Glacier adventure for me in many Hotel. Gordon often stopped in the bird lice which had crept in through places far from the Park. I especially St. Moritz Room for an hour or two the walls from swallows’ nests up remember days in law school, op- to write in the many notebooks that under the eaves. He dusted our beds pressed with long hours of studying he kept on mountaineering and on with DDT, which promptly ended cases, when I would refresh myself alpine insects. He was a distinctive the attacks. with five minutes of diversion in Gordon’s book. I was struck from the outset by Gordon’s I never lose my sense of awe at Gor- generosity. don’s section on Mt. St. Nicholas, Glacier Park’s most dangerous peak. At one point he states: “A ledge figure among the crowds of tourists, I vividly recall the day of Gordon’s leads eastward … and gives access with his barrel chest, plain white T- famous grizzly bear encounter. He to an easier cliff which is, however, shirt, and pleasant smile. was charged by a sow in the Morn- above a sheer drop of possibly 2,000 ing Eagle Valley, and managed to I was struck from the outset by feet and is composed of extremely fend the first attack off with his ice Gordon’s generosity. His famous rotten rock slabs in a vertical wall. axe. In the subsequent scramble, Climber’s Guide was out of print The handholds here are thin slabs of however, his forearm was clenched at the time, and it would be several quartzite and red argillite not more between the bear’s teeth. Gordon years before a new edition appeared. than a couple of inches thick. They patted the bear’s face and spoke gen- Gordon took time out of his busy will not stand the strain of a hori- tly, and the animal let him go. I was professorial schedule to xerox and zontal pull. Here is a place to hold on duty as a bellman that afternoon mail me a copy during the off-sea- the mountain together as you climb when he walked nonchalantly into son. I was impressed that he would it! Keep your elbows against the cliff the hotel and showed me his swollen take this trouble for an obscure and make sure the pull exerted on and bleeding arm. young employee. the holds is straight downward.” I had the privilege of several out- On one day off in June, a friend and Likewise arresting is Gordon’s ac- ings with Gordon, Alice, and Jane, I were drenched by hours of cold count of the routes up Mt. Wilbur, including a hike along the spectacu- rain while taking a hike to Red Eagle all of which involve hair-raising per- lar goat trails above Helen Lake on Lake. Returning famished to St. ils above yawning chasms. Gordon the Ptarmigan Wall. We improvised Mary Lodge, we perversely ordered famously gave the name of “Thin milk shakes. Gordon happened into the restaurant and noticed us We improvised ice axes out of sharp stones to there shivering and sipping on those cross a steep snowfield on Ahern Pass. shakes. He promptly packed us into his car and drove us back to Many Glacier, curtailing his other plans for ice axes out of sharp stones to cross a Man’s Pleasure” to one of these the day. steep snowfield on Ahern Pass. On routes. As he describes it: “[Climb another occasion, I had the benefit the small, open chimney just south On another occasion, Gordon came of following orange ribbons that of the prominent ridge… About 80 to the rescue in his scientific role. Gordon had tied on the flanks of feet up, this chimney pinches togeth- An infestation of what the employees Mt. Allen to mark a safe route to er and ends in a peculiar cavity be- believed to be bedbugs had broken Snow Moon Lake. neath an overhang. In the ceiling of

10 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail Remembering Gordon Edwards continued this cave is a hole about 2 feet square can that held the summit register on en” in the section on Heaven’s Peak. that gives access to a protected gully Going-to-the-Sun Mountain; the This rare apparition (named after a above it. The climbers who follow whimpering porcupines that make it mountain in Germany) occurs when the leader here should be roped, and difficult to sleep at Gunsight Lake; the westering sun casts a climber’s will certainly be exposed to a trickle the rocky blotch like a backwards shadow, with a surrounding rainbow of gravel during their ordeal in the E that marks the route over Iceberg halo, onto lowlying clouds. cavity.” Notch; the mysterious swarming of Gordon’s departure is wrenching for ladybird beetles on top of Mount The Climber’s Guide is full of color- family and friends, but his legacy Allen. Especially memorable is his ful details: the lightning-mangled certainly will continue to enrich the account of “the Specter of the Brock- Glacier Park experience for count- less people. And I hope to see him The Climber’s Guide has summoned up again. The prophet Isaiah describes images of Glacier adventure for me in many the Kingdom of Heaven with im- ages of a mountain. It’s pleasant to places far from the Park. imagine climbing with Gordon once again on celestial peaks.

Gordon ascending a gully on Going-to-the Sun Mountain. He was always at home when on a mountain. (Rolf Larson photo)

Gordon and Jane traversing one of the many goat trails he ‘sniffed’ out over his half-century of exploration in Glacier Park. (Rolf Larson photo)

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 11 Childhood Memories of Gordon Edwards By Edward Sanman III (Many Gla- right over the head of my bed. Each From 1955 to 1959, my father was cier, Swiftcurrent, and GPI Auditor, of the 3 rooms had an electric light stationed at other locations around 1964-72) powered by the hotel generator be- Glacier and so I lost track of Gor- low Swiftcurrent Falls. don. I met him again in 1968 when I first met Gordon Edwards in June I was working at Swiftcurrent Motor 1954 at the Many Glacier Ranger Given the room layout of the cabins, Inn as the Night Auditor. Gordon Station. He was a seasonal Ranger entertaining had to be a family affair would visit Glacier for several weeks Naturalist and my father was a — there was no separate room that each summer, usually staying in seasonal Ranger at the Many Glacier the children could be sent to. When the Many Glacier Campground. Entrance Station. I was 7 years old the Edwards entertained, they found He would come over to the lobby and this was our family’s 3rd sum- that the very small pantry (off of the of Swiftcurrent Motor Inn in the mer in Glacier and 1st summer at kitchen and next to the back door) evenings and use one of the writing Many Glacier. The Edwards family was big enough for a make shift tables for several hours. I also saw were living in the 2nd cabin to the cradle for their daughter. Gordon occasionally in 1971 and right of the Ranger Station, and we I remember that Gordon was an avid 1972 at Swiftcurrent Motor Inn were living in the 1st cabin to the hiker and mountain climber. Hiking when I was working as the Roving left. Their daughter Jane was only was a family affair and the Edwards (Raving) Auditor. about 1 or 2 years old. had an early version of a backpack In talking to Gordon, I learned that The cabin we lived in had 3 rooms for carrying an infant. I even re- there was an extensive network of (bedroom/living room, bathroom, member a Postcard for sale in the animal trails at the higher eleva- and kitchen). The kitchen had a Hotels showing the Edwards hiking tions that could be used by people. wood burning stove with oven and a in Glacier (I think it was along the Gordon offered to show me a path small refrigerator. The stove pro- Garden Wall) carrying their daughter between Many Glacier Hotel and the vided heat for the cabin and had a in the backpack. cirque which held Snow Moon and special set of water pipes that con- Gordon was best remembered for his Falling Leaf Lakes. I had studied the nected the stove to a water tank to mountain climbing in Glacier. Each government topographical map and provide hot water. When we arrived in Many Glacier and found out about this housing He would come over to the lobby of assignment, we thought we were Swiftcurrent Motor Inn in the evenings and use in heaven. The previous two sum- one of the writing tables for several hours. mers we had been in Apgar in the old Nyberg Cabin Camp. Those cabins only had one room, a tap summer he would climb various looked at the terrain and could not with cold running water (no sink, mountains and peaks in Glacier. He see any easy way to get to these lakes. throw the rinse water out the front kept notes about various routes to Gordon indicated that there was a door), wood stove, no refrigerator, the tops and which ones were prefer- mountain sheep trail along a ledge and a communal outhouse (with able. His enthusiasm for climbing on the side of Mt Allen leading into separate men’s and women’s sides), 2 in Glacier got him into trouble when the high cirque. wash tubs (for bathing and washing he painted a “THIS WAY UP” sign I regret that we never found the clothes), and 2 electric lights on one on the side of a mountain. The Park time to take that hike. I will always switch. Our cabin at Many Glacier Service was not amused and made remember Gordon as a person who even had a telephone (hand crank) him remove the sign. A few years enjoyed talking with people, loved connected to the Many Glacier later, Gordon published his Glacier Glacier National Park and was Hotel switchboard. The phone was Park Climber’s Guide. always enthused about hiking in Glacier. 12 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail A Thank You to Gordon Edwards By Jana Hjelmseth Baker (Many Gla- recalls you both being so kind and laughter and an ease that we haven’t cier 1980-81) and Jacquie Hjelmseth interesting. Jane was especially en- experienced since. Dr. Edwards, Fennel (Many Glacier 1981) couraging of Jacquie and her music. you made our climb feel like a nice Before you left, you invited her and easy walk to Red Rock Falls. That Dear Dr. Edwards, the tag-along little sister to join you. was your gift to us and to so many You may not remember us, but What luck – we happened to be off you climbed with in your life. You we are two sisters from Missoula, the next day. We accepted without loved your craft and did it so seem- Montana whom you graciously a thought that we had never really ingly without much effort that you invited to climb Mt. Reynolds with climbed a mountain that took more inspired generations to do the same. you and your lovely daughter Jane than just walking to the summit. We continue to have a passion in the summer of 1981. We know So many of the details are foggy for for hiking and climbing with our we’ve been remiss in thoroughly and both of us now but the overall day families and friends. It is marvelous properly thanking you for the honor is etched in our memories – glori- to make our way over the pass when of making our first Glacier mountain ous! We’re sure there were moments we get to Glacier and feast our eyes ascent so memorable. And yet, we’re of internal panic at various difficult on Mt. Reynolds. We delight in the quite sure we really had no idea then spots we encountered – chimney rich experience you so generously how fortunate and blessed we were chutes that we had to scramble up gave to us. We didn’t know how for- to accompany you that day. and down and extremely narrow tunate we were then, but we do now. Jaquie happened to wait on you and goat trails, to name a few. But we Thank you for your extraordinary Jane in the Many G. dining room primarily remember the day being life and how it touched us all. the night before the climb. She dominated by great conversation,

Jana and Jacquie join Gordon and Jane on the traverse across the face of Mount Reynolds. (Photo courtesy of Jana Hjelmseth Baker and Jacquie Hjelmseth Fennell)

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 13 Gordon at Swiftcurrent By Dave Shoup (Swiftcurrent, Many of us made up Mt. Merritt in 1974, into his hand. On his hike out, he Glacier 1973-76) giving us a new canister for climber took a picture of his enormously registration to leave at the summit. swollen hand, which he shared with As a waiter for two summers at the audience that evening. Swiftcurrent Motor Inn in 1974 and One evening, Gordon held a Glacier 1975, I fondly remember Gordon slide show in the Swiftcurrent Coffee He always had time to hear stories of drinking coffee most mornings with Shop. I vividly recall him detail- our “adventures”. (I know mine cer- the local “mountaineering gang,” ing his encounter with a bear near tainly paled in comparison). We all talking about the next climb or hike Morning Eagle Falls — talking gen- owe many, many thanks to Gordon or past experience. Gordon always tly to calm the bear as it bit deeply for his Climber’s Guide. had time to give employees advice on our climbing expeditions. My most notable memory was hiking with I fondly remember Gordon drinking coffee most Alice and Gordon on the Ptarmigan mornings with the local “mountaineering gang,” Wall goat trail from the Ptarmigan Tunnel to Ahern Pass. He took talking about the next climb or hike or past experience. particular interest in a climb several Paying Tribute to Gordon Edwards By Rolf Larson (MGH 1975, 1977-80, understand and communicate with when all were welcome to join the NPS 1981-1985) the creatures and natural elements group and share in lively conversa- that surrounded him in Glacier. tions. I will remember the thrill of Gordon Edward was larger than “Look for goat trails,” he would tell watching him on the slopes. He life. Glacier National Park defined us. had a tendency to always look up him for better than 50 years of slope, savoring the adventure and his life, and in turn, he defined us I met Gordon during my first sum- assessing possibilities at each ledge who shared his passion for Glacier’s mer working in Glacier. I was just or turn. I will always marvel at the mountains. In all, he influenced another young person caught by way he knew what was going to three generations of climbers. A the lure of Glacier’s magical peaks. happen next, be it a pending storm strong case can be made that he Though surrounded by throngs of or a potential hazard. It was as if he defined the sport of climbing in Gla- friends, when he sensed my passion knew something the rest of us could cier. He defined how we see moun- for climbing, he welcomed me, as only guess at. tains, how we relate to the landscape he did hundreds of others during his and how we relate to each other as half century in Glacier. The overriding perception that Gor- people who use Glacier’s backcoun- don brought to the sport of climb- I treasure the memories of times try, especially climbers. ing in Glacier National Park was his spent with him and his family. I love of Glacier and his passion for He exhibited extraordinary powers will always remember the expand- the sport of climbing. He enjoyed of observation, intense powers of ing meals at Swiftcurrent Motor Inn the entire mountain environment understanding and a subtle ability to and attempted to share that broader enthusiasm with all of us who seek A strong case can be made that he defined the guidance from his climbing guide. sport of climbing in Glacier. He guided both our hearts as well as our hands and feet, sharing with us not only secrets of Glacier’s high

14 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail places but a wealth of myth and his- footsteps. Without his intuition, in- I would personally like to thank tory that have been attached to this telligence and gracious spirit, many, him. He made a better person of special place by people whose lives if not most of us would never have me. I think there are many of us were also touched by this passion to experienced the thrill and camarade- who share this feeling. We were explore and exuberance to celebrate. rie of many great days spent in the privileged to know this man. No matter how significant or impres- mountains, and memories worthy of We now experience the passing of sive our personal accomplishments, being passed on to anyone who will the torch. The world of climbers we as backcountry users in Glacier listen to our personal tales. in Glacier has moved from those Park are only following in Gordon’s of us who know this man to those who knew him. It is a tragedy that He defined how we see mountains, how we nobody else will have the privilege to experience this very special man as relate to the landscape and how we relate we did. to each other as people who use Glacier’s May we all have the strength and backcountry, especially climbers. wisdom to pass on the lessons this man shared with us.

Gordon Edwards describes the route up Iceberg Notch. He always found time to both share his knowledge and to listen to the experiences of others. (Rolf Larson photo)

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 15 Running the PBX in the 1950’s

Carolyn Anderson Woodbury, Kay Doherty Roam and Lisa Ambrose at Many Glacier front desk, 1959. (Kay Doherty Roam photo)

by Kay Doherty Roam (Glacier Park Western Star. The deal was that you On about the third morning, while Lodge 1958, Many Glacier Hotel had to work through the summer to be doing my duty in the dorm bathroom, 1959) given the return half—if you left early I overheard the hotel manager’s secre- you paid for it yourself. I recall that tary tell a friend that they were going to I did not want to work at Glacier Na- compensation for working six days per have to send back to St. Paul for a new tional Park that summer of 1958, after PBX operator because one that they had hired was already homesick and headed I did not want to work at Glacier National for the barn—hang the cost of the tick- Park that summer of 1958, after finishing my et. I came boiling out of the stall and hollered, “No, no, I am a trained PBX sophomore year at the University of Minnesota. operator and would love to have the job!” She looked me up and down and finishing my sophomore year at the week was 85 cents an hour, plus room then instructed me to report for duty at University of Minnesota. It would mean and board and the ticket. 7:00 the next morning. It was absolutely giving up my cushy room-and-board Upon arrival I was told that I had been the best job in the park. You were right job working on the switchboard in upgraded to room cleaner—no ad- in the middle of everything, seated next the dorm, and that would mean mov- ditional money, alas. My training took to the room clerk at the front desk. You ing back home—perish the thought. just long enough to clean one room, were the first to know everybody’s busi- But stressed by two jobs and a seven- teen credit hour load as a chemistry major, I twice that spring ended up I walked away with a signed contract to be a in the University Hospital. That did hall cleaner at Glacier Park Lodge and one-half it for Mom and Dad. One of Dad’s good friends was a golf buddy of Don of a round trip ticket to East Glacier on the Knutson, whose company then man- Great Northern’s Western Star. aged the park hotels. Dad hauled me to Mr. Knutson’s office for an interview— with emphasis on hospital sheet corners ness. The split shifts were 7-noon and didn’t trust me to go on my own—and on the beds. I still remember that the 6-11 PM one day and noon-6 PM the I walked away with a signed contract to drinking glasses in the bathroom were next, which were ideal for studying on be a hall cleaner at Glacier Park Lodge encased in tidy little glassine bags—after the job and exploring the area when off. and one-half of a round trip ticket to having been rinsed out in the sink. So East Glacier on the Great Northern’s much for sanitation.

16 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail Running the PBX continued That summer was over in flash, but “No, no, I am a trained PBX operator and before collecting my train ticket I signed a contract to work the board the next would love to have the job!” She looked summer at Many Glacier. Oh, my— me up and down and then instructed me to even better, deep in the heart of the report for duty at 7:00 the next morning. park. One of my best Many memories was those talented folks who presented the musical shows in the evening. Who When she was busy I would assist the notice. I knew I had arrived when I was could ever forget DeAnna Dougherty room clerk and the most famous person handed a shirt that needed attention. belting out “I’m just a girl who can’t say I checked in was Tennessee Ernie Ford, no” in “Oklahoma!” Or the three bell- I loved being able to ride on the busses whom I recall as a lovely gentleman. men who, in their lederhosen, intro- on days off when they weren’t full, and When it wasn’t busy I could watch what duced us to the tunes of the Kingston in short order had visited all the other was going on in the lobby and was oc- Trio. Or my roommate, Margie Ladd, hotels in the park and Prince of Wales at casionally known to pick bark off the a bagpiper from the University of Iowa Waterton. Two or three of us could ride ponderosa log pillar located next to the whose plaintive tones could make a the bus to Logan Pass, hike over Swift- PBX board. magpie cry. Me, too, because it usually current Pass to Many, and then safely took the two of us the better part of an Life in the park was a revelation. I hitch a ride back home. I never did get hour to get her into discovered mountains, hiking, fresh air, stranded or miss having my own wheels. her regalia, with time out to crawl hitchhiking, the ability to make friends. I fell in love with the smell of the pines around on the floor for the missing I gained so much weight on the good when they were damp and years later contact lens or two. food that I had to send Mom an SOS bought a house mostly because the pines for some larger clothes. I learned that in the yard had been rained on the night Carolyn Anderson was the room clerk the ultimate status symbol was to have before. I had never noticed wildflowers, I worked with and I looked on with a gearjammer boy friend and to prove and their color and variety and profu- approval as Bill Woodbury, boatman it by ironing his red cowboy shirt in sion were overwhelming. for Mr. Burch, courted her. I still am the dorm front room, preferably in the in contact with them and, in fact, it evening when there were the most to was they that introduced me to the Glacier Park Foundation. Because the U of M began classes later in the year than most schools, I was able to stay on to help close down the hotels. One day I received a call that there was a fire somewhere near the hotel with heavy smoke. Doing some research I found that Mr. Burch had ordered a new boat for the next year and had decided that the best way to get rid of the old one was simply to burn it out on the lake. So subsequent callers could simply be told that the boat was being deliberately burned. I still think there are some who disbelieved me. My red-cowboy-shirted jammer of the previous summer, Rhodes Perry (anyone have any idea what became of him?—he was a medical student at Baylor Uni- versity in Texas while at Glacier) came back for a visit and gathered a group of Red bus at Chief Mountain Customs; Jan Franke, Kay Doherty friends for a more sober and sedate re- Roam, John Duchow, Jeanne Stokes. (Kay Doherty Roam photo) The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 17 Running the PBX continued union at the Swiftcurrent campground. He and I were at one point leaning against his car while waiting for the coffee pot on the campfire to boil, when suddenly the car began to shake. Think- ing maybe a bear was pushing on it, we pulled out our flashlights and explored the area to no avail. When we returned to the dorm, we learned of the Hebgen earthquake down in Yellowstone. I had a funny experience during the late 1960’s. I ended up marrying my high school boyfriend and one summer while we were living in Oregon we headed to Minneapolis to visit the folks. We decided to really splurge with a night at Many, rather than staying in the camp- ground. After dinner we got the three little boys to sleep and then decided to

The chorus of “Oklahoma!” in 1959, Dee Daugherty in stripes. (Kay Doherty Roam photo) slip down to the bar just off the lobby trip mates were well aware that this was for a nightcap. It was dark and crowded a much-anticipated homecoming for and as I plowed my way through the me. When the bus turned west at Babb throng looking for a couple of empty and the beloved mountains began to chairs a hand reached out and grabbed come into view, I breathed “Oh, they’re my slacks. Ready to swat whomever was even bigger than I remembered.” What being so fresh I looked down and to my a wonderful moment! Compounded by utter amazement saw my old bagpiper the fact that the tour director had asked roommate Margie sitting there grinning. the hotel to give me the best room in Of course we joined her and her dentist the place rather than the old coal bin husband and then exchanged Christmas usually assigned to single travelers. A cards for years. big corner room with wonderful views over Swiftcurrent Lake. I had died and In the summer of 2003, I signed up for gone to heaven. But I managed to wake a ten-day tour of Lewis and Clark sites

“Oh, they’re even bigger than I remembered.”

in Montana. The deciding factor was up early enough the next morning to the ride over Logan Pass in one of the head out with the trusty camera in hand Margie Ladd in 1959. (Kay new jammer busses and a night at Many and take a couple of rolls of the sunrise. Doherty Roam photo) Glacier. By the time we got there my

18 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail (Photo courtesy of After 67 years. . . might be at East Glacier, so John B. Turner) down the road we all eagerly Finding Old No. 99 went. Arriving at East Glacier, we soon discovered the 75th anniversary display in the lobby, and were thrilled to find Dad in the group photo of the original 1937 Gearjammers! All of the By John B. Turner the 2004 gathering. As the reunion other pictures and memorabilia on dis- approached, Mom’s health deterio- play brought out many more stories and I would like to share with your readers rated, and sadly, she passed away in memories from Dad. By then, we were my family’s memorable experiences at June, bringing us all together a month all stunned at the sequence of events Glacier, which span more than 60 years. early for a more somber reunion. After that was making this such a magical day My parents, John F. Turner, of Texas, the funeral, we all decided to follow for the family. But there was still no sign and Mary T. Turner of Minnesota, met through with the planned July reunion of old #99. at Glacier while working summer jobs and tried to encourage Dad to join us, As we were about to wrap up the day, in the park. Dad was a Gearjammer since his burden of care giving had come one final surprise found us in front of from 1936 to 1939, and he was the first to an end. But due to his 89 years and a the Lodge: one of Dad’s granddaughters driver of bus #99 when the new fleet few nagging ailments, he told us he did met another driver named Brock Haley was first introduced in the summer of not think it was wise to make the trip. (from Atlanta). As it turns out, Brock 1937. He later became the Dispatch In July, we all congregated in White- is the current driver of bus #99, and so Agent at East Glacier, during the sum- fish as planned, only to unexpectedly our magical day improbably continued mers of 1940 and 1941. As Dad fondly discover that on his own initiative, Dad as Dad and Brock exchanged more won- remembers, he noticed the name “Mary had gone on-line, booked his own ticket derful stories. Brock graciously listened Treacy” of Minnesota on the incoming and flown to the reunion, much to the to Dad, and his love and pride for the train manifest, and became determined surprise and delight of us all. To accom- Park, and his willingness to share it with to meet her. As fate would have it, modate this happy development, we his passengers, were evident in all his Mom got a job across the lobby as a decided to change the whole focus of words. Brock told us he could arrange cashier, and so their friendship began. the sibling reunion: we started to plan a for a shuttle bus to take us all down to He eventually proposed to her at the trip to Glacier in hopes of finding Dad’s the lot where #99 was parked for the East Glacier train station, and they were old bus #99. We wanted to recreate our rest of the day. Brock opened it up and married in 1942. They moved to Cali- family photo from 15 years ago, only let Dad sit in the drivers seat as we all fornia, where they raised five children: this time in front of the right red bus. posed for photos...Brock took turns Byron, Ann, Judy, Sara and David. They shooting with about a dozen different have returned to the Park a few times We left Whitefish and began our search cameras so that we could all go home over the years, including the memorable for #99 at the West Glacier Lodge, with our own memories. summer of 1989 when our family held where we encountered several of the old a reunion at Waterton. During the ’89 buses. Dad reminisced with some of the It was a truly memorable day, and we reunion, we looked everywhere for Dad’s current “Jammers” while our cameras cannot thank the Park and its employ- beloved bus #99, but alas with no luck, and clicked. We then set out over Logan ees enough for going out of their way we finally settled on taking our family photo Pass as Dad told tales along the way, to make it so special for Dad and his in front of a different red bus. stopping for lunch and more stories family. He has raved about his days at at St. Mary’s Junction, but no sight- Glacier for so many years, and it was so For many months, all five siblings ing of #99. After lunch, we went to heartwarming to encounter your present and the grand kids had been planning Many Glacier and met “Jammer” David day employees who still take such pride another reunion at our brother David’s Eglsaer (also from Texas) and Joe and in their work and in sharing the Park house in nearby Whitefish, MT. Mom’s Geri Kendall, who have worked at the with its many visitors. We look forward health had been failing for several years, park since 1949. We were all spellbound to visiting the Park again in years to and Dad had been house bound for as the four of them exchanged stories of come. Please pass our sincere thanks much of that time caring for her, so it their years working at Glacier. During along to everyone who made our 2004 was not an option for them to attend the conversation they suggested that old #99 reunion so memorable.

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 19 Gordon Edwards was by profession a scientist. By style he was a naturalist and teacher. In this picture, he takes a moment to rest and enjoy a hard- earned perch atop the Ptarmigan Wall. (Rolf Larson photo)

JOIN THE GLACIER PARK FOUNDATION All friends of Glacier Park are invited to join the Glacier Park Foundation. Membership includes a subscription to The Inside Trail and the right to vote for directors. Please download a membership form from our Web Site (www.glacierparkfoundation.org) or send your name, address, phone number, and park experience to Glacier Park Foundation, Box 15641, Minneapolis, MN 55415.

An annual membership in the Foundation costs $10. A “Friend of the Park” membership costs $25 annually, cumulating to a Lifetime membership in five installments. A Lifetime membership paid in one installment costs $100.

The Glacier Park Foundation is a § 501(c)(3) nonprofit corporation. Contributions are tax deductible to the extent permitted by law.

(Panorama by Christine Baker)

20 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail