05_59771x ch01.qxp 11/18/05 10:22 PM Page 4 1 The Best of Ireland At first glance, Ireland presents a familiar face to American visitors. The language is the same, only more lyrical, the faces are familiar, the food recognizable, even the stout well known. Many visitors, notably Irish Americans, experience it as a kind of home- coming. It takes a while for this superficial impression to wear off, but it will, because this is a unique country in its own right, a fact that becomes clearer the longer you stay here. The impenetrable Gaelic language is increasingly prevalent, and in some counties road signs are predominately in Gaelic. This creates a kind of distance, a feel- ing of foreignness, that it seems many Irish do not mind cultivating. These are a proud people and, in part because of the success of the powerful Irish tourism industry, increasingly possessive of their nation. They know how many people come here from other lands and feel a sort of ownership here—because of family backgrounds, and the familiarity of last names—and while they are sympathetic, they will quickly remind you that this is their country. Don’t be put off by this. Most of them are genuinely glad you’re here—they can just feel a bit overrun from time to time. For visitors this is an ideal country to traverse, and with its varied and extensive offerings within a compact frame, it’s visually addictive. Within a few miles you can travel from rugged coastline to smooth pastureland to towering mountains to gloomy peat bog. You may not go very fast on its winding narrow roads, but you will see a great deal in a small period of time. Within a half-day’s drive of downtown Dublin lie Neolithic tombs, Bronze Age forts, early Christian monastic sites, Viking city walls, and vast Georgian estates. Centuries-old castles stand anachronistically in pastures, with ponies grazing nonchalantly around them. The past is all around you here: Pre- historic stone tables stand in backyards, and farmers drive their tractors carefully around ancient stone circles There are thousands of unexcavated ancient sites dotted around the countryside, waiting to be explored. Others are marked, but open to the public—most of these are in perfect condition, protected by the general population who have a profound respect for these mysterious sites that were, until recently, believed by many to be protected by fairies. So here is a quick list of some of our favorite places in Ireland. We hope that while you’re here you’llCOPYRIGHTED find a few of your own. MATERIAL 1 The Best Picture-Postcard Towns • Dalkey (County Dublin): This to enjoy. Dalkey is an upscale bed- charming south-coast Dublin suburb room community for Ireland’s rich, has just enough glorious freedom so it’s unsurprising that it also has from that city’s traffic snarls and fine restaurants and welcoming pubs. frenzy. With a castle, a mountaintop This is a tempting town to settle into. folly, and lovely beaches, there’s a lot See chapter 5. 05_59771x ch01.qxp 11/18/05 10:22 PM Page 5 THE BEST NATURAL WONDERS 5 • Carlingford (County Louth): Up in Kinsale through Scilly to Charles Fort quiet, lazy Louth, little Carlingford is and Frower Point is breathtaking. a draw. A tiny medieval village with Kinsale has the added benefit of being castle ruins on the bay, its pedestrian- a foodie town, with no shortage of friendly lanes are filled with colorful good restaurants. See chapter 9. shops, cafes, and pubs, and its other • Kenmare (County Kerry): If you’re draws include a scattering of good driving the Ring of Kerry, this is the eateries. See chapter 6. best base you could wish for at the • Inistioge (County Kilkenny): Nes- mouth of the River Roughty on Ken- tled in the Nore River Valley, sur- mare Bay. The town is picture perfect rounded by undulating hills, this with stone cottages, colorful gardens, riverfront village with two spacious and flowers overflowing from win- greens and a host of pubs cries out to dow boxes. See chapter 10. be photographed. Its rivers and lakes • Adare (County Limerick): Like a are swimming with fish and attract town plucked from a book of fairy hosts of anglers. See chapter 7. tales, Adare has thatched cottages, • Kilkenny (County Kilkenny): black-and-white timbered houses, Kilkenny is a charming medieval town. lichen-covered churches, and roman- Its city walls, splendidly restored castle, tic ruins, strewn along the banks of and renowned arts scene draw visitors the River Maigue. It’s also got two from across Ireland and abroad. The excellent hotels and one fabulous combination of the historic feel and restaurant. See chapter 11. the modern arts movement makes this • Athlone (County Westmeath): Sit- an especially rewarding town to dis- ting at the edge of the River Shan- cover. See chapter 7. non, its streets curving around a • Kinsale (County Cork): Kinsale’s sturdy, fortresslike castle, Athlone is a narrow streets all lead to the sea, drop- charmer. Houses are painted in ping steeply from the hills around the bright hues, and with its small, funky harbor, although the crowds of visi- boutiques and spirit of fun, it has the tors teeming on the sidewalks every feel of a busy university town. Good summer attest to the fact that the restaurants and lively pubs add to its Kinsale secret is out. The walk from charms. See chapter 15. 2 The Best Natural Wonders • The Slieve Bloom Way (County Reeks not only has the best name of Laois): Slieve Bloom, Ireland’s largest any mountain range in Ireland, but and most unspoiled blanket bog, rises also the highest mountain on the gently above the peat fields. Its island, Carrantuohill (1,041m/3,414 beauty—gentle slopes, glens, rivers, ft.). The Reeks are among Ireland’s waterfalls, and bog lands—is subtle greatest spectacles. See p. 322. but persistent, and it is comparatively • The Burren (County Clare): We can untouched. You can have it more or guarantee this: the Burren is one of less to yourself, apart from its deer the strangest landscapes you’re likely and foxes, and an occasional frolick- to see. Its vast limestone grassland is ing otter. 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