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Home , Adare Manor, Ballymaloe House, Ballynahinch Castle, Bantry House, Beara Peninsula, Blackwater Way

15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 407

ACCOMMODATIONS INDEX

Note: Page numbers of accommodation profiles are in boldface type.

A Conrad Hotel, , 111 Crescent Townhouse, , 370, 373–74 Abbeyglen Castle Hotel, , 300, 327–28 Country House, Adare, 269–70 D , Adare, 29, 93, 270–71 Days Inn Talbot Street, Dublin, 111 , Cong, 93, 300, 332–33 Delphi Mountain Resort and Spa, Westport, Ash-Rowan House, Belfast, 370, 372, 373 300, 333–34 Atlantic Coast Doyle’s Townhouse, Dingle, 237, 256 Doolin, 299, 300 , , 93, 270, 286–87 Westport, 300, 333 Dunraven Arms, Adare, 270, 271–72 Avenue House, Belfast, 370, 372–73 F B The Fitzwilliam, Dublin, 31, 112, 113, 115 , Midleton, 29, 186, 216 Foley’s, , 236, 237 , Recess, 30, 300, 328 Foyles Hotel, Clifden, 300, 328–29 Barnabrow Country House, Midleton, 186, Frewin, North , 30, 342, 362 216–17 Friar’s Lodge, , 186, 225–26 Bewleys Hotel, Dublin, 112, 113–14 Brownes Hotel, Dublin, 112, 113, 114 G Bushmills Inn, Antrim Coast, 30, 373, 400–401 Glenlo Abbey, , 300, 312, 317 Butler Court, , 184, 186–87 Glenview House, Midleton, 30, 186, 217–18 Butler House,COPYRIGHTED Kilkenny, 184, 186, 187 Great Southern MATERIAL Hotel, Galway, 300, 312–13, 317 C Greenmount House, Dingle, 30, 237, Captains House, Dingle, 237, 255 256–57 Castle Grove Country House Hotel, North The Gresham, Dublin, 112, 113, 115–16 Donegal, 342, 361–62 Castlewood House, Dingle, 237, 255–56 H Chart House, Kinsale, 186, 225 Hayfield Manor, Cork, 31–32, 186, 203, 204–5 The Clarence, Dublin, 31, 112, 113, 114–15 Heaton’s Guesthouse, Dingle, 237, 257 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 408

408 INDEX

Hillcrest View Bed and Breakfast, Kilrush, 270, O 293 Old Bank, Kinsale, 186, 226 Hilton Dublin, 111, 113 The Old Ground, Ennis, 270, 287 Hotel Isaacs Cork, 186, 203, 205 Old Pier, Dingle, 237, 258 Hotel Isaacs Dublin, 112, 113, 116 Old Presbytery, Kinsale, 186, 226–27 J p Jurys Inn Christchurch, Dublin, 112, 113, House Hotel, Galway, 300, 314, 317 116–17 Jurys Inn Galway, 300, 313, 317 R Jurys Inn , 270, 281–82, 283 Radisson SAS , Ballincar, 340, 342, 343 K Rathmullan House, North Donegal, 31, 342, 362–63 Kilkenny Ormonde, 184, 186, 187–88 Killeen House, Galway, 30, 300, 313–14, 317 S 357–58 L St. Ernan’s House, Donegal, 342, Sallyport House, Kenmare, 236, 237 Lancaster Lodge, Cork, 186, 203, 205–6 Sea Shore Farm, Kenmare, 236–37 Longfield’s Hotel, Dublin, 112, 113, 117 Shelburne Lodge, Kenmare, 31, 237, 238 Lotamore House, Cork, 186, 203, 206–7 T M Temple House, Ballymote, 31, 340, 342, Maddybenny Farmhouse, Antrim Coast, 373, 343–44 401 Ten Square, Belfast, 32, 370, 373, 374–75 Malone Lodge, Belfast, 370, 373, 374 Tower Hotel Derry, 373, 390, 392 , Collooney, 30–31, 340, The Townhouse, Dublin, 112, 113, 119–20 341–42 Trident, Kinsale, 186, 227 Merchants House, Derry, 373, 390, 392 , Dublin, 32, 112, 113, 118 W Milltown House, Dingle, 237, 257–58 The Westbury, Dublin, 112, 113, 120 Morrison Hotel, Dublin, 112, 113, 118–19 Westin Dublin, 113 N Z Number 31, Dublin, 32, 112, 119 Zuni Townhouse, Kilkenny, 184, 186, 188 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 409

RESTAURANT INDEX

Note: Page numbers of restaurant profiles are in boldface type.

A , Belfast, 32–33, 388 Cruise’s, Ennis, 291 An Café Liteartha, Dingle, 259 An Driochead Beag, Dingle, 262 D An Leath Phingin, Kenmare, 238–39 David Byrne’s, Dublin, 151–52, 163 Auld Dubliner, Dublin, 162 Davitt’s, Kenmare, 240 B Dick Mack’s, Dingle, 263 Badger’s, Derry, 390, 396 Doheny and Nesbitt, Dublin, 163 Ballymaloe House, Midleton, 32, 197, 221 Doyle’s, Dingle, 239, 260 Beatrice Kennedy, Belfast, 370, 385–86 , Galway, 320 Beshoffs, Dublin, 149, 152, 153 Durty Nellie’s, Ennis, 273, 291 Bewley’s Café, Dublin, 150, 160 E Bistro Bianconi, Sligo, 340, 352, 353 Blue Haven, Kinsale, 197, 229 Eamon Langton’s, Kilkenny, 199 Botanic Inn, Belfast, 388 Eden, Dublin, 149, 153, 154 Brazen Head, Dublin, 162 Eglantine, Belfast, 388 Bridge Café, North Donegal, 353, 366 Elephant and Castle, Dublin, 150 Bulman, Kinsale, 230 Ely, Dublin, 149, 153, 154–55 English Market, Cork, 33 C Enoteca della Langhe, Dublin, 149, 153, Café en Seine, Dublin, 162–63 155 Café Sol, Kilkenny, 184, 196–97 Epicurean Food Hall, Dublin, 150 The Castle Inn, Dublin, 163 Caviston’s, Dublin, 150 F Cayenne, Belfast, 370, 386 Farmgate Café, Cork, 197, 203, 212 , Dublin, 149, 153, 154 Farmgate Restaurant and Country Store, Chart House, Dingle, 32, 239, 259 Midleton, 197, 221 Ciaran’s, Ennis, 291 Fenns Quay, Cork, 197, 203, 212 The Cloister, Ennis, 273, 290–91 Fenton’s, Dingle, 239, 260 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 410

410 INDEX

F (continued) Lord Baker’s, Dingle, 239, 261 The Lord Edward, Dublin, 163 Fishy Fishy Café, Kinsale, 197, 229 Foley’s, Kenmare, 240 M Foxy John’s, Dingle, 263 McCormack’s, Westport, 335 G McDermott’s, Doolin, 300 McDonagh’s, Galway, 301, 317, 319 Global Village, Dingle, 239, 260–61 McGann’s, Doolin, 299–300, 301 Goat Street Café, Dingle, 239, 261 Malt House, Galway, 301, 317, 318–19 Green Onion, Limerick, 273, 283, 285 Mange 2, Derry, 390, 396–97 Green Room, North Donegal, 353, 366 Marconi Restaurant, Clifden, 301, 329 Gruel, Dublin, 150–51 Markree Castle, Sligo, 340, 352, 353 , Dublin, 33 Matt Malloy’s, Westport, 335 H Mermaid Cafe, Dublin, 149, 153, 157 Halo, Dublin, 149, 155–56 , Belfast, 34, 370, 386–87 Harcourt Hotel, Dublin, 163 Miss Sushi, Dublin, 150 Hargadon Brothers, Sligo, 353 Montmartre, Sligo, 340, 353 Mother Hubbard’s, Kinsale, 229 I Inn Between, Adare, 272–73 N Irish Film Centre, Dublin, 151 Nash 19, Cork, 197, 203, 214 Itsabagel, Dublin, 150 National Gallery of Café, Dublin, 151 Neary’s, Dublin, 163 J Nick’s Warehouse, Belfast, 34, 370, 387 Jacob’s Ladder, Dublin, 33, 149, 153, 156 Nimmo’s, Galway, 34, 301, 317, 319 Jacobs on the Mall, Cork, 33, 197, 203, 212–13 O Jacques, Cork, 197, 203, 213 O’Connor’s, Doolin, 300 James Street South, Belfast, 33, 370, 386 O’Currain’s, Dingle, 263 O’Donoghue’s, Dublin, 163 K O’Donovan’s, Midleton, 197, 221–22 K C Blakes, Galway, 301, 317, 318 O’Flaherty’s, Dingle, 263 Kelly’s, Kilrush, 273, 296 Old Bushmills Distillery, 34 Kitty Kelly’s, Killybegs, 353, 360 Oliver St. John Gogarty, Dublin, 151, 163 Kyteler’s Inn, Kilkenny, 184, 188, 197, 198 101 Talbot, Dublin, 149, 153, 158 L O’Neill’s, Dublin, 152 Out of the Blue, Dingle, 34–35, 239, 261–62 La Mère Zou, Dublin, 149, 153, 156 Owenmore Restaurant, Recess, 35, 301, Lacken House, Kilkenny, 33–34, 184, 197, 329–30 198 L’Ecrivain, Dublin, 34, 149, 153, 156–57 P Leo Burdock’s, Dublin, 151 Packie’s, Kenmare, 239, 239–40 Les Frères Jacques, Dublin, 149, 153, 157 Paddy Quinn’s, Ennis, 291 Les Gourmandises, Cork, 197, 203, 213–14 Pearl Brasserie, Dublin, 149, 158 Lime Tree, Kenmare, 239, 239–40 Peploe’s, Dublin, 149, 153, 158–59 Little Skillet, Kinsale, 197, 229–30 Pordylos, Kilkenny, 184, 197, 198–99 The Long Hall, Dublin, 163 The Purple Heather, Kenmare, 239, 240 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 411

RESTAURANT INDEX 411

Q The Spaniard, Belfast, 388 The Stag’s Head, Dublin, 152, 163 Quay Cottage, Westport, 301, 335 The Quays, Galway, 301, 317, 319 T Queen of Tarts, Dublin, 152 The Tea Room, Dublin, 149, 153, 159–60 R V Rain City Café Grill, Belfast, 370, 387 The Vintage, Kinsale, 197, 230 Ramore Wine Bar, Antrim Coast, 404–5 Restaurant , Dublin, 35, 149, W 153, 159 Wagamama, Dublin, 152 The Weaver’s Loft, Donegal, 353, 359 S Weeping Elm, North Donegal, 353, 366 Shanakee, Kinsale, 230 White’s Tavern, Belfast, 388 Spaniard, Kinsale, 230 Wild Geese, Adare, 273–74 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 412 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 413

SUBJECT INDEX

A Abbey(s), 17–18 information, 94 Abbey of St. Mary, 398 Kenmare, 36–238, 237 Black Abbey, 189 Kilkenny, 184, 186–88 , 18, 174, 178–79 Kilrush, 270, 293 Jerpoint Abbey, 18, 189–91 Kinsale, 186, 225–27 Kylemore, 18, 303, 309, 325–26 Limerick, 270, 281–82 Old Abbey, 358–59 Midleton, 186, 225–27 Ross Errilly, 307 North Donegal, 342, 361–63 Sherkin, 249 ratings of, 96–97 Sligo, 340, 345–47 reservations for, 95–96 Trinitarian, 272 for seniors, 49 , Dublin, 127, 134–35, 160 Sligo Town, 341–44 Accommodations, 93–97 South of Ireland, 186 Adare, 269–72, 270 types of, 93–94 Antrim Coast, 373, 400–401 Westport, 300, 333–34 Belfast, 370, 372–75 , 74, 336 best of, 29–32 Adare, 267–75 Clifden, 300, 327–29 accommodations, 269–72 Cong, 300, 330–31 arrival at, 269 Cork, 186, 204–7 attractions, 275–77, 279 costs, 38–39, 93, 95 exploring, 272 Derry, 373, 390, 392 information, 269 Dingle, 237, 255–58 recreation, 274 for disabled visitors, 48 restaurants, 272–74, 273 Donegal Town, 342, 357–58 transportation, 269 Doolin, 299, 300 Adare Manor, 272 Dublin, 95, 110–20 Admission pass, Dublin, 107 East Cork, 186, 216–18 Air travel Ennis, 270, 286–87 airports for, 59–61 Galway, 300, 312–14, 317 , 322 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 414

414 INDEX

A (continued) National Museum of Ireland—Decorative Arts and History at Collins Barracks, Air travel (continued) 130, 132, 136 deals in, 39–42 Niland Gallery, 352 Galway, 311 Royal Hospital Kilmainham—Irish Museum within Ireland, 68 of Modern Art, 130, 132, 134–35, 145 Shannon, 269 Museum, 23, 370, 383, 385 Albert Memorial Clock Tower, Belfast, 377–78 Arthur’s Quay, Limerick, 282 Aliwee Caves, The , 302, 306 Arts festivals, 53–57 Angela’s Ashes, 281–82 Atlantic Drive Animals , 20, 297–98 Achill Island, 336 Connemara National Park, 324 Peninsula, 347 Dolphinwatch , 275, 295 ATMs, 51 Dublin Zoo, 28, 134–35, 147–48 Attractions. See specific locations Fota Wildlife Park, 28, 190, 219–20 Augustine monastery, Cong, 331 Annaghdown Priory, Connemara, 307 Augustinian Priory, Adare, 272 Antiques, 99–100, 167–68 Aviation museums, 274–75 Antrim Coast, 346, 400–405 accommodations, 373, 400–401 B arrival at, 400 Ballina, 336 attractions, 20, 383, 403–4 Ballinrobe, 308 driving tours, 74 Ballsbridge, Dublin, 106 exploring, 401–2 Ballybunion, 276, 277 restaurants, 404–5 Ballycastle, 376, 377, 401 transportation, 400 Ballycotton, 218 Apprentice Boys’ Memorial Hall, Derry, 390, Ballycrovane Stone, 246 393 Ballycroy National Park, 76 Aquariums, Oceanworld, 259 Ballydehob, 249 Aran Islands, 321–23 Ballyferriter, 264 Archaeology. See Prehistoric sites Ballynahinch Castle, Connemara, 325 Archdale Castle, 379 , 302, 304, 306 Ards Forest Park, 347, 348, 363 Baltimore, 249 Area codes, telephone, 52 Bank of Ireland, Dublin, 128, 134–35 The Ark: A Cultural Centre for Children, Banking, 51 Dublin, 134–35, 147 Bay, 249 Art museums and galleries , , 243 and Gallery of Barnacle House, Galway, 315 Oriental Art, 22, 132–35 Bars. See Entertainment and nightlife Crawford Municipal Art Gallery, 22, 190, Basalt pillars (Giants Causeway), 383, 403–4 203, 210–11 Beaches Glebe House, 364–65 Achill Island, 336 Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Dublin, 169 Art, 22, 132, 134–35, 139, 161 East Cork, 218 , 22, 275, 282–84 , 251–52 National Gallery of Ireland, 22–23, 130, North Donegal, 363 132, 134–35, 141–42 Rosses Point, 355 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 415

SUBJECT INDEX 415

West Clare Peninsula, 293–94 Boat trips. See also Ferries Beara Peninsula, 20, 74–75, 241, 243 Cliffs of Moher, 20, 297–98 , 73, 245–46 Connemara, 325 Beatty, Sir Alfred Chester, 22, 132–35 Corrib Princess, 316 Beckett, Samuel, 121, 161 Dingle, 259 Bed-and-breakfasts, 94 Dolphinwatch Carrigaholt, 275, 295 Beer, Guinness Storehouse, 130, 132, 134–35, , 357 138–39 Galway, 316 Behan, Brendan, 121 Skellig Islands, 253 Belfast, 370–89 Bogside, 25, 392–94 accommodations, 370, 372–75 Boll, Heinrich, 336 arrival at, 371–72 Book of Kells, Dublin, 17, 131–32, 134–35 attractions, 370, 382–85 Book shops, 100, 168 entertainment and nightlife, 370, 388–89 Botanic Gardens, Belfast, 360, 382–84 exploring, 375–79, 382 Boyne Valley, 123–25 information, 371 Brandon’s Creek, , 264 maps, 370 Bray Head, 122 restaurants, 370, 385–87 Breweries, Guinness Storehouse, 130, 132, shopping, 389 134–35, 139 special events, 371 Bridges spectator sports, 388–89 Adare, 272 tourist board offices, 43 Carrick-a-Rede, 28, 377, 383, 402 transportation, 371–72 Daly, 192 Belfast International Airport, 61 Old Weir, 246 Belleek, 379 St. Patrick’s, 207 Bells of Shandon, Cork, 28, 190, 203, 209–10 Salmon Weir, 315 Bembaun, Connemara, 324 Bridges of Ross, , 294 Ben Bulben, 355 Bunglass, 346 Bewley’s Café, Dublin, 160 Castle and Folk Park, Ennis, Biking, 71–73, 321 23, 27–28, 275, 288–89 Binnagorm Point, 347 Bureaux de change, 51 Bird-watching, 76 , 75–76, 301–7 Black Abbey, Kilkenny, 189 attractions, 20, 302–7 Black Hill, 346 exploring, 302 Black Strand, 347 The Burren Centre, 302–3 Blackrock, 192 The Burren Exposure, 303–4 Blackwater Valley, 75, 193–94 Burren National Park, 301, 304 Blackwater Way, 192 Buses, 66–68 , Cork, 23, 190, 203, 208–9 Adare, 269 Blasket Centre, 264–65 Antrim Coast, 400 Blasket Islands, 245, 263–64 Aran Islands, 322 Blennerville Windmill, , 279–80 Belfast, 372 Blessington, 125 Connemara, 325 Bloody Foreland, 348 Cork, 204, 208 Bloody Sunday Monument, Derry, 390, 394 Derry, 391 Boa Island, 379 Dingle, 255 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 416

416 INDEX

B (continued) emergencies during, 66 Ennis, 286 Buses (continued) , 397 Donegal Town, 357 on ferries, 61 Dublin, 60, 108 Galway, 311 East Cork, 216 gasoline for, 66 Ennis, 286 insurance for, 64–65 Enniskillen, 397 Kenmare, 235 escorted tours in, 69–70 Kilkenny, 185 Galway, 311 Kilrush, 292 Kenmare, 235 Kinsale, 225 Kilkenny, 185 Limerick, 281 Kilrush, 292 Midleton, 216 Kinsale, 225 North Donegal, 361 Limerick, 281 rental, 63–65 Midleton, 216 roads and roundabouts, 65–66 North Donegal, 361 rules of the road for, 64–65 Sligo Town, 341 Sligo Town, 341 Bushmills, 377 Westport, 332 Bushmills Distillery, Antrim Coast, 383, 404 Carrick-a-Rede Bridge, Antrim Coast, 28, 377, Butler family home (), 24, 184, 383, 402 190, 191 Carrigaholt, 294–95 Butlerstown, 194 Carrigart, 347 Butter Exchange, 207 Carrowkeel, 19, 345 Butter Slip, Kilkenny, 188 Carrowmore, Sligo Town, 19, 340, 344–45 C Cashel Cabs, Dublin, 110 attractions, 190, 199–200 Caherconnel, 302 driving tours, 193–94 Caherdaniel, 251 Castle(s) Cahermore Stone Fort, The Burren, 302 Ballynahinch, 325 Calendar, of special events, 53–57 best, 23–25 Cape Clear Island, 249 Blarney, 23, 190, 203, 208–9 Car travel, 63–66. See also Driving tours Bunratty, 23, 27–28, 275, 288–89 Adare, 269 , 28, 289 Antrim Coast, 400 Desmond, 227, 272, 277 Belfast, 371 Doe, 347–48 Clifden, 327 Donegal, 23–24, 358 Cobh, 223 Dublin, 130, 147 Cong, 332 Dún na Long, 249 Cork, 204 Dunguaire, 320 Derry, 391 Dunluce, 24, 383, 402–3 Dingle Town, 255 Dysert O’Dea, 288, 306 Donegal Town, 357 Enniskillen, 397–98 drive times, 66 , 24, 365 Dublin, 108, 110 Glin, 275–77, 279 East Cork, 216 , 172 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 417

SUBJECT INDEX 417

Kannpogue, 289 St. Colman’s Cathedral, 222–23 Kilkenny, 24, 184, 190, 191 St. Columb’s Cathedral, 390, 393 King John’s, 24, 28–29, 284 St. Mary’s Cathedral, 282 Leamaneh, 302 St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral, 127, 134–35 Lismore, 193 St. Multose Church, 227 lodging in, 93–94 St. Patrick’s Cathedral, 19, 132, 134–35, 146 Lynch’s, 315 Whitefriar Street Carmelite Church, 148 Malahide, 24–25, 29, 173–75 Church Hill, 349 Matrix, 276–77 Church of St. Anne Shandon, Cork, 203, Parke’s, 25, 354–55 209–10 Ross, 25, 250–51 City Hall Timoleague, 194 Belfast, 370, 375 Castle Archdale, 379 Dublin, 130 , Enniskillen, 383, 398–99 Claddagh, 315 Castlebar, 336 Claddagh Hall, Galway, 320 Castletown Bearhaven, 245 Clew Bay, 305, 332 , 241 Clifden, 327–30 Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven accommodations, 300, 327–29 and St. Nicholas, Galway, 315 arrival at, 327 Causeway Coast, 73, 376–78 driving tours, 309 Caves, Aliwee, 302, 306 restaurants, 301, 329–30 Céide Fields, 336 shopping, 330 Cell phones, 52–53 special events, 327 Celts, 9–10 Cliffs, , 21, 74, 346, 360 Cemeteries Cliffs of Moher, 20, 297–98, 305–7 Huguenot, 129 Clogheen, 192 Milltown, 382 Clonakilty Bay, 194 Chapel of St. Joseph’s Convent, Dingle, 258 , 193 Charles Fort, Kinsale, 25, 190, 192, 228 Clothing Chester Beatty Library and Gallery of Oriental packing suggestions, 47 Art, Dublin, 22, 132–35 shopping for, 100 Children, attractions for, 27–29, 47–48. See Clubs, Dublin, 164–66 also attractions with the “kids” logo Cobh Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin, 130, 132–36 arrival at, 223 Church(es) attractions, 190, 223–24 Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed into history, 222 Heaven and St. Nicholas, 315 Cobh, the Queenstown Story, 25, 190, 223–24 Chapel of St. Joseph’s Convent, 258 Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas, Galway, 315 Christ Church Cathedral, 130, 132–36 Collins Barracks museum, Dublin, 130, 132, Church of St. Anne Shandon, 28, 190, 203, 136 209–10 Colonization, English, 12–13 Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas, 315 Cong, 300, 307, 330–31 Gallus Oratory, 264 Connemara, 323–26 Little Ark of Kilbaha in, 294 attractions, 20, 303, 325–26 St. Anne’s Cathedral, 377 driving tours, 307–9 St. Canice’s Cathedral, 188, 190, 196 exploring, 324–25 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 418

418 INDEX

C (continued) Crystal and Connemara (continued) factory for, 190, 201–2 recreation, 326 Galway Irish Crystal Heritage Centre, Connemara National Park, 76, 304–5, 324 316–18, 321 Connor Pass, 264 shopping for, 100, 168 Consular offices, 45–46 Cultural museums Coomakista Pass, 251 Blasket Centre, 264–65 Cork, 202–15 Ulster Folk and Transport Museum, 29, accommodations, 186, 204–7 383–85 arrival at, 204 Curragchase, Forest of, 274, 276 attractions, 190, 208–12 Currency, 50–51 Cushenden, 378 entertainment and nightlife, 214 Customs regulations, 59 exploring, 207–8 history, 202 D information on, 202 Daly Bridge, Cork, 192 maps, 203 Dame Street, Dublin, 128 recreation, 215 Dance, Dublin, 161 restaurants, 197, 212–14 DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit), 108–9 shopping, 215 Day trips, from Dublin, 171–79 special events, 202 de Valera, Eamon, 15–16 transportation, 204 Department stores, 167 walking, 192 Derreena Taggart , 245 Cork City Gaol, 190, 203, 210 Derry, 389–97 Cork Harbour, 192 accommodations, 373, 390, 392 Cork University, 202 arrival at, 391 Corofin, 288, 306 attractions, 383, 390, 395–96 Corrib Princess, 316, 325 exploring, 392–95 Costs history, 389 accommodations, 38–39, 93, 95 information, 389, 391, 395 gasoline, 66 maps, 390 restaurants, 38–39, 97–98 restaurants, 390, 396–97 Coulagh Bay, 246 special events, 391 Country-house hotels, 94 transportation, 391 Courthouse, Kilkenny, 188 Derry Walls, 390, 393 Courtmacsherry Bay, 194 Derrylahan Nature Trail, 349 Crafts, shopping for, 168–69, 262 Derrynane, 244 Craggaunowen, Ennis, 28, 289 Derrynane Dunes Nature Trail, 244 Crawford Municipal Art Gallery, Cork, 22, Derrynane House, Iveragh Peninsula, 26, 252 190, 203, 210–11 Derryveagh Mountains, 349 Credit cards, 63, 101 Creslough, 347, 348 Adare, 272, 277 , Westport, 73, 332 Kinsale, 227 Croaghaun, Achill Island, 336 Devenish, 379 Cross of Cong, 307, 331 Devenish Island, 398 Crown Liquor Saloon, Belfast, 376–77 Diamond, Donegal Town, 356 Cruises. See Boat trips , Connemara, 304 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 419

SUBJECT INDEX 419

Dingle, 254–65 Cashel, 193–94 accommodations, 237, 255–58 Connemara, 307–9 arrival at, 255 Dublin, 123–26 attractions, 241 Galway, 308–9 entertainment and nightlife, 262 itineraries for, 78–91 exploring, 258–59 Lower Shannon, 276–78 information, 255 , 88–91, 377–81 recreation, 262–63 Northwest of Ireland, 75, 85–88, 347–51 restaurants, 239, 259–62 South of Ireland, 79–80, 82 shopping, 262 Southwest of Ireland, 81, 82, 84, 242, special events, 255 248–49 transportation, 255 , 194 Dingle Peninsula, 21, 75, 263–65 West of Ireland, 83–85, 305–10 , 73, 245 Drombeg Stone Circle, West Cork, 194 Disabled visitors, 48 Druid Stone Circle, Kenmare, 238 Discounts , 354–55 air travel, 39–42 Dublin, 103–79 for senior travelers, 49 accommodations, 95, 110–20 sightseeing, 70 attractions, 107, 131–48 Distilleries day trips from, 171–79 Old Bushmills, 383, 404 driving tours, 123–26 Old Jameson, 134–35 embassies in, 46–47 Old Midleton, 190, 220 entertainment and nightlife, 160–66 , 347–48 exploring, 120–48 Dolphinwatch Carrigaholt, 275, 295 gay and lesbian activities in, 49–50, 164 , 23–24, 358 information, 106–7 Donegal Town, 356–59 maps, 104–5, 109, 112, 126 accommodations, 342, 357–58 neighborhoods, 103, 106 arrival at, 357 not-to-be-missed attractions, 107 attractions, 345, 358–59 overview, 7 exploring, 357 public transportation, 108–10 information, 357 recreation, 169–71 restaurants, 353, 359 restaurants, 149–60 shopping, 359 shopping, 166–69 Donegall Square, Belfast, 375 tourist board offices, 43 Doo Lough, 246 transportation, 60 Doogort, Achill Island, 336 walking, 108, 121–23, 126–31 Doolin, 26, 299–301 Dublin Airport, 60 Doolough Valley, 332 Dublin Area Rapid Transit (DART), Downings, 347 108–9 Downpatrick Head, 336 , 169 Dress recommendations, 47 , 130, 147 Driver’s license, 63 Dublin Experience, 134–35, 147 Driving. See Car travel Dublin Tourism office, 106–7 Driving tours , 27, 132, 134–35, best routes, 74–75 137–38 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 420

420 INDEX

D (continued) shopping, 291 special events, 286 Dublin Zoo, 28, 134–35, 147–48 transportation, 286 and the Viking World, 130, 132, , 275, 290 134–37 Dún Aenghus, Aran Islands, 323 Enniskerry, 125 Dún Laoghaire, 174, 176–77 Enniskillen, 397–400 Dún na Long Castle, 249 attractions, 383, 398–99 Dunbeg Fort, Dingle Peninsula, 245, 263 driving tours, 379 Dunfanaghy, 348 exploring, 397–98 Dunguaire Castle, Galway, 320 recreation, 399–400 Dunlewey, 346, 349 restaurants, 399 Dunlewey Lough, 349 transportation, 397 Dunloe, Gap of, 245–47 Enniskillen Castle, 397–98 , Antrim Coast, 383, 402–3 Entertainment and nightlife Dunmore Head, 245, 263 Belfast, 370, 388–89 Dunquin, 263 Dingle, 262 Dunraven family, Adare Manor, 272 Doolin, 300–301 Dunree Head, 363–64 Dublin, 160–66 Durrus, 249 Ennis, 291 , 241 Galway, 320 Dysert O’Dea Castle, Corofin, 288, 306 Kenmare, 240 Kilkenny, 199 E Kinsale, 230 East Clare Way, 292 Sligo Town, 353 East Cork, 215–22 Errigal Mountain, 346–49 accommodations, 186, 216–18 Euros, 50–51 arrival at, 216 Exercise. See Recreation attractions, 190, 218–19 Exploring exploring, 218 Adare, 272 information, 215 Antrim Coast, 401–2 restaurants, 197, 221–22 Belfast, 375–79, 382 Easter Rebellion of 1916, 15 Cong, 331 Elderhostel, 49 Cork, 207–8 Electricity, 50 Dingle, 258–59 E-mail, 53 Donegal Town, 357 Embassies, 46–47 Dublin, 120–48 English Market, Cork, 190, 203, 211–12 East Cork, 218 Ennis Ennis, 287–88 accommodations, 270, 286–87 Enniskillen, 397–98 arrival at, 286 escorted tours, 68–70 attractions, 275, 288–90 essential gear for, 70–71 entertainment and night life, 291 Galway, 314–16 exploring, 287–88 Kenmare, 238 information, 285–86 Kilrush, 293–95 recreation, 291–92 Kinsale, 227–28 restaurants, 273, 275, 288–91 Limerick, 282 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 421

SUBJECT INDEX 421

maps for, 70–71 Fota House, Midleton, 190, 218–19 North Donegal, 363–64 Fota Wildlife Park, 28, 190, 219–20 Sligo Town, 344 Foynes Flying Boat Museum, 274–75 Tralee, 279–80 Franciscan monastery, Adare, 272 Westport, 334 French Quarter, Cork, 207 Eye of Ireland, 171 Frower Point, Kinsale, 192 Eyeies, 246 Fry Model Railway Museum, Malahide, 173 Eyre Square, Galway, 314 Fungie, 28, 259

F G Fair Head, 377 Gaelic football, Dublin, 171 Falcarragh, 348 Gaiety theater, Dublin, 161 Falls Road, Belfast, 26, 375, 379, 381 Gallery of Photography, Dublin, 128 Head, 347, 363 Gallus Oratory, Dingle Peninsula, 264 Farms Galway, 308–21 lodging on, 94 accommodations, 300, 312–14, 317 and Traditional Farms, arrival at, 311 248–49 attractions, 303, 316–19 Father Matthew, 207 driving tours, 308–9 , 192 entertainment and nightlife, 320 Ferries, 61 exploring, 314–16 Aran Islands, 321–22 history, 308 Kilrush, 292 information, 309, 311 Festivals, calendar for, 53–57 maps, 317 Fishing, 76–77 recreation, 321 Adare, 274 restaurants, 301, 317–19 Connemara, 326 shopping, 320–21 Dublin, 169–70 special events, 311 Galway, 321 transportation, 311 FitzGerald family, Glin Castle, 275–77, 279 Galway Irish Crystal Heritage Centre, 316–18, Fitzgerald Park, Cork, 192 321 Fitzwilliam Street, Dublin, 129 Heritage Centre, 363 Gap, 192, 193 , Enniskillen, 398 Gap of Dunloe, 245–47 Flying boat museums, 274–75 Gap of Mamore, 363 Folk Park, Bunratty, 23, 27–28, 275, 288–89 Garden(s) Football (soccer), Dublin, 171 Bantry House, 243 Forest of Curragchase, 274, 276 Blarney Castle, 23, 190, 203, 208–9 Forts Botanic Gardens, 360, 382–84 Caherconnel, 302 Forest of Curragchase, 274, 276 Cahermore, 302 Fota House, 190, 218–19 Charles, 25, 190, 192, 228 Garden of Remembrance, 128 Dunbeg, 245, 263 Glebe House, 364–65 Staigue, 251 , 24, 365 Teernahilane Ring Fort, 245 Rhododendron Gardens, 172, Forty Foot Bathing Pool, 176 174 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 422

422 INDEX

G (continued) Grand Circle Travel, 49 Garden(s) (continued) Grand Opera House, Belfast, 370, 375–76, Kylemore Abbey and Garden, 18, 303, 309, 388 325–26 Grand Parade, Cork, 207 Liss Ard Foundation, 249 Gratan Lough, 349 Muckross House and Traditional Farms, Grianan Ailigh, 363 248–49 Guest houses, 93 Powerscourt House and Gardens, 129, 174, Guildhall, Derry, 394 179 Guinness Storehouse, Dublin, 130, 132, Talbot Botanic Garden, 173 134–35, 138–39 Vandeleur Walled Garden, 275, 295–96 Headland, 348 , 303, 334–35 H The Gate, Dublin, 161 Hag’s Head, Cliffs of Moher, 20, 297–98 , Dublin, 128, 134–35 Headford, 307 Gay and lesbian travelers, 49–50, 164 Health insurance, 50 Georgian houses, Dublin, 106, 129–30 Healy Pass, 241 Geraldine Tralee, 280 Henry Street, Dublin, 127, 166 Giants Causeway, Antrim Coast, 383, 403–4 Heritage card, 70 Giant’s Ring, Belfast, 383 Heritage centers Glebe House, North Donegal, 349, 364–65 Cobh, 190, 223–24 Glenariff, 401–2 Kenmare, 238 Glenariff Forest Park, 73, 376, 378, 402 Heritage items, shopping for, 168 Glendalough Abbey, Wicklows, 18, 174, Hiking, Connemara, 326 178–79 , Boyne Valley, 19, 123, 124, 175 , 306 Historic museums, sites, and events. See also Glenmacnass, 125 Monasteries; Prehistoric sites Glens of Antrim, 400, 401 best of, 19, 25–26 Glenveagh Castle, North Donegal, 24, 365 , 23, 27–28, 275, 288–89 Glenveagh National Park, 21, 73–76, 349, 364 calendar for, 53–57 Glin Castle, 275–77, 279 Derrynane National Historic Park, 244 Global System for Mobile Communications Dublin Experience, 147 network, 52–53 Galway Irish Crystal Heritage Centre, Goleen, 249 316–18, 321 Golf, 77–78 Hill of Tara, 19, 123, 124, 175 Adare, 274 , 280 Connemara, 326 Kilrush Heritage Centre, 293 Cork, 215 National Museum of Ireland, 23, 132, Dingle, 262–63 142–43 Dublin, 170 National Museum of Ireland—Decorative Ennis, 291–92 Arts and History at Collins Barracks, 130, Galway, 321 132, 136 Kilrush, 296 Newgrange, 19, 123, 124, 175–76 Kinsale, 231 Regional Museum, 227 Sligo Town, 354 , 340, 348–49, 352 Gore-Booth, Constance, 356 Tower Museum Derry, 383, 390, 395 Grafton Street, Dublin, 106, 129, 166 , 23, 370, 383, 385 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 423

SUBJECT INDEX 423

History, overview, 9–17 Adare, 269 Homes. See also Castle(s) air travel, 39–42 Adare Manor, 272 Aran Islands, 322 Andrew Mellon, 378–79 Belfast, 371 Bantry House, 243 Clifden, 327 Derrynane House, 26, 252 Cong, 330 Florence Court, 398 Derry, 389, 391, 395 in Folk Park, 289 Dingle, 255 Fota House, 190, 218–19 Donegal Town, 357 birthplace, 27, 132, Dublin, 106–7 134–35, 146–47 Ennis, 285–86 Georgian, Dublin, 106, 129–30 for gay and lesbian travelers, 50 Glenveagh Castle, 24, 365 Kenmare, 235 , 355–56 Kilkenny, 185 Muckross House and Traditional Farms, Kilrush, 292 248–49 Kinsale, 224 Newman House, 134–35, 148 Limerick, 281 House, 315 Midleton, 215 North Donegal, 364–65 North Donegal, 361 Number 29 house, Dublin, 132, 134–35, Sligo Town, 341 143 tourist-information centers for, 43–44 Oscar Wilde, 129, 132, 134–35 Tralee, 280 Powerscourt House and Gardens, 129, 174, Westport, 332 179 Inisheer, 321–23 Rothe House, 188–89 Inishmaan, 321–23 Tigh Neachtain, 315 Inishmore, 321–23 Westport House, 303, 334–35 Peninsula, 21, 346, 363 , 347, 348 Insurance Horse racing, Dublin, 171 auto, 64–65 Horseback riding, 78 health, 50 Dingle, 264 International Museum of Wine, Kinsale, 227–28 Dublin, 170 Internet Hotels. See Accommodations; separate access to, 53 accommodations index travel information on, 40–42, 44 House of Lords, Dublin, 128 Irish Film Centre, Dublin, 128 Howth and , 21, 122, 169, 171–72 Irish Heraldry Society, 276–77 Howth Castle Rhododendron Gardens, 172, Irish Landmark Trust, 94 174 Irish Museum of Modern Art, Dublin, 130, Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art, 134–35 Dublin, 22, 132, 134–35, 139, 161 , 13 Huguenot Cemetery, Dublin, 129 Irish Republican Brotherhood, 14 Hunt Museum, Limerick, 22, 275, 282–84 Irish Tourist Board, 42–43 Hurling, Dublin, 171 Island Heritage Center, Aran Islands, 323 I Isle of Innisfree, 354 Inch beach, 262 Iveragh Peninsula (Ring of Kerry), 251–52 Information, 309, 311 attractions, 241 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 424

424 INDEX

I (continued) history, 181, 183 Iveragh Peninsula (Ring of Kerry) (continued) information on, 185 walking, 244 maps, 184 restaurants, 184, 196–99 J shopping, 199 Jails special events, 185 Cork City Gaol, 190, 203, 210 Kilkenny Castle, 24, 184, 190, 191 , 26, 130–32, 134–35, Killala, 336 140–41 , 21, 76, 241, 243–48 Centre, Dublin, 132, 134–35, Killary Harbour, 309, 332 139–40 Killimer, 274 James Joyce Tower, , 174, 177 , 169 Jerpoint Abbey, Kilkenny, 18, 189–91 Killybegs, 353, 359–60 Jogging, Dublin, 170 Killyhoey Beach, 348 Joyce, James, 55, 121, 134–35, 139–40, 174, Kilmacduagh, The Burren, 18, 303, 305–7 177, 315 Kilmainham, 106, 130–31 Kilmainham Gaol, 26, 130–32, 134–35, K 140–41 Kannpogue Castle, Quinn, 289 Kilronan, 322–23 Kate Kearney’s Cottage, 247 Kilrush, 292–96 Kayaking, 78, 170 accommodations, 270, 293 Kenmare arrival at, 292 accommodations, 236–38, 237 attractions, 275, 295–96 arrival at, 235 exploring, 293–95 attractions, 241 information, 292 entertainment and nightlife, 240 recreation, 296 exploring, 238 restaurants, 273, 296 history, 233, 235 transportation, 292 information, 235 Kilrush Heritage Centre, 293 maps, 234 King John’s Castle, Limerick, 24, 28–29, restaurants, 239–40 284 transportation, 235 King’s Island, Limerick, 282 Kenmare Heritage Centre, 238 Kinsale, 224–31 Kenmare Lace and Design Centre, 238 accommodations, 186, 225–27 Kerry County Museum, 275, 280 arrival at, 225 , 244 attractions, 190, 228 Kilbaha, 294 entertainment and nightlife, 230 Kilcrohane, 249 exploring, 227–28 , 302, 307 information on, 224 Kilkee, 276, 294 recreation, 230–31 Kilkenny, 181, 184–99 restaurants, 197, 229–30 accommodations, 184, 186–88 special events, 224 arrival at, 185 transportation, 225 attractions, 184, 189–91, 196 walking, 192 entertainment and nightlife, 199 Kinvarra, 320 exploring, 188–89 , 192–94 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 425

SUBJECT INDEX 425

Knocknarea, Sligo Town, 344 attractions, 275, 282–84 Kylemore Abbey and Garden, Letterfrack, 303, exploring, 282 309, 325–26 information, 281 Kylemore Valley, 309 maps, 283 Kyteler’s Inn, Kilkenny, 188 restaurants, 273, 284–85 shopping, 285 L transportation, 281 Lace making, Kenmare, 235 Linen Hall Library, Belfast, 375 Ladies’ View, Killarney National Park, 244–45 Lisdoonvarna, 305 Lagan Lookout Visitors Centre, Belfast, , 193 378–79 Liss Ard Foundation, Skibbereen, 249 Lagan Weir Lookout, Belfast, 378 Lissadell House, Drumcliff, 355–56 Lakelands, 378 Literary pub crawls, 26–27, 121 Lakes Little Ark of Kilbaha, 294 Dunlewey Lough, 349 Little Skeele, 253 Gratan Lough, 349 Local protocols, 7 Lough Corrib, 75, 307, 324 Lodging. See Accommodations; Lough Erne, 378–79, 397, 399–400 separate accommodations index Lough Gill, 354–55 Londonderry. See Derry Lough Lilly, 347 Long Haul trail, 376 Lough Mask, 75, 307–8 Drive, 276, 277, 294–95 Lough Veagh, 349 Lough Corrib, 75, 307, 324 Muckross, 74, 246–47 Lough Erne, 378–79, 397, 399–400 Laragh, 125 Lough Gill, 354–55 Latin Quarter, Galway, 314–15 Lough Hyne, 248 Lauragh, 241 Lough Lilly, 347 Lavitt’s Quay, 207 Lough Mask, 75, 307–8 , The Burren, 302 Lough Veagh, 349 Leenane, 305, 309 Lower Shannon, 267–96 Leenane Sheep and Wool Museum, 309 Adare, 267–74, 275 House, Dublin, 130 around Adare, 274–79 Lesbian travelers, 49–50, 164 attractions, 267, 275 Letterfrack, 309, 324 driving tours, 276–78 Kylemore Abbey and Garden, 303, 309, Ennis, 270, 273, 275, 285–92 325–26 Kilrush, 270, 273, 275, 292–96 Letterkenny, 348–49, 361 Limerick, 270, 273, 275, 281–85 The Liberties, Dublin, 106, 130–31 maps, 268 Libraries not-to-be-missed attractions, 267 Chester Beatty Library and Gallery of overview, 8 Oriental Art, 22, 132–35 Tralee, 275, 279–80 Linen Hall Library, 375 walking, 276, 278 Marsh’s Library, 27, 132, 134–35, 141 West Clare Peninsula, 275, 293–96 Lighthouses, Sheep’s Head, 248 LUAS streetcar system, Dublin, 110 Limerick, 281–85 Luggage, 44–45 accommodations, 270, 281–82 Lusitania memorials, 190, 223–24 arrival at, 281 Lynch’s Castle, Galway, 315 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 426

426 INDEX

M Martello Tower, Howth Head, 122 Martin, Dick, 315 Maam and Maam Cross, 308, 324–25 Matrix Castle, 276–77 McCarthy clan, Blarney Castle, 23, 190, 203, Meenlaragh, 348 208–9 Meeting House Square, Dublin, 128 MacDonnell clan, Dunluce Castle, 24, 383, Meeting of the Waters, Muckross Lake, 246 402–3 MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, 246, 247 Mellon, Andrew, 378–79 MacMahon Castle, Carrigaholt, 294–95 Merrion Square, Dublin, 129 Mail service, 53 Michael, Skellig, 19, 252–54 Malahide, 169, 172–75 Mid-Clare Way, 292 Malin Head, 346, 363 Midleton, 215–22 Malin Well Beach, 346 accommodations, 186, 216–18 Malone, Molly, statue of, 129 arrival at, 216 Manuscripts, Book of Kells, 17, 131–32, 134–35 attractions, 190, 218–20 Maps information, 215 Belfast, 370 restaurants, 197, 221–22 bus routes, 67 Military museums, 363–64 Cork, 203 Milltown Cemetery, Belfast, 382 Derry, 390 , 248–49 driving itineraries, 79, 81, 83, 86–87, 90–91, Model-railway museums, Fry, 29, 173 195, 310 Moher, Cliffs of, 20, 297–98, 305–7 Dublin, 104–5, 109, 112, 126, 134–35, 153, Moll’s Gap, 244 175 Monasteries, 10 Galway, 317 Annaghdown Priory, 307 Ireland, 6 Augustinian Priory, 272 Kenmare, 234 Black Abbey, 189 Kilkenny, 184 Cong, 331 Limerick, 283 Ennis Friary, 275, 290 Lower Shannon, 268, 278 Franciscan, 272 Northern Ireland, 368–69 Glendalough, 174, 178–79 Northwest of Ireland, 338–39 Glendalough Abbey, 18, 174, 178–79 Sligo Town, 340 Jerpoint Abbey, 18, 189–91 sources for, 70–71 Kilmacduagh, 303, 305–7 South of Ireland, 182–83 Kylemore Abbey, 18, 303, 309, 325–26 Southwest of Ireland, 234, 242 Old Abbey, 358–59 train routes, 62 Reasc, 264 walking itineraries, 195, 310 Ross Errilly Abbey, 307 West of Ireland, 298 St. Molaise, 398 Maradyke, Cork, 192 Scattery Island Centre, 293 Maritime exhibits, Cobh, 222–24 Sherkin, 249 Markets , 19, 252–54 Dublin, 167 Sligo Abbey, 340, 345–47 English, 190, 203, 211–12 Trinitarian, 272 Markievicz Leisure Centre, Dublin, 170 Monea, 379 Marley Park, Dublin, 123 Money, 50–51 Marsh’s Library, Dublin, 27, 132, 134–35, 141 Monument of Light, Dublin, 127 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 427

SUBJECT INDEX 427

Moore, Annie, statue of, 222 special-events calendar for, 53–57 Moore Street, Dublin, 127 traditional, 26–27 Mountains Belfast, 388 Derryveagh, 349 Doolin, 300–301 Errigal, 346–49 Ennis, 285–86, 291 Knockmealdown, 192–94 Mweelrea, 309 of Mourne, 376 Purple, 247 N Sperrin, 397 Nassau Street, Dublin, 166 , 304, 324 National Concert Hall, Dublin, 161 Wicklow, 22, 75, 174, 177–79 National Gallery of Ireland, Dublin, 22–23, Mourne, Mountains of, 376 130, 132, 134–35, 141–42 Muckross House and Traditional Farms, National History Museum, Dublin, 134–35 248–49 National Monument, Cork, 207 Muckross Lake, 74, 246–47 National Museum of Ireland, Dublin, 23, 132, Murals, Derry, 394 142–43 Murrisk, 305 National Museum of Ireland–Decorative Arts Museums and History, Collins Barracks, Dublin, art. See Art museums and galleries 130, 132, 136 aviation, 274–75 National parks, 75–76. See also specific parks best, 22–23 National Photographic Archive, Dublin, crystal and china, 316–18 128–29 cultural, 23, 29, 264–65, 383–85 National Transport Museum of Ireland, historical. See Historic museums, sites, Howth, 29, 172, 174 and events Natural beauty, best sites for, 20–22 history, 340, 348–49, 352 Natural-history museums James Joyce, 174, 177 The Burren Centre, 302 military, 363–64 Natural History Museum, 148 model railway, 29, 173 Ulster Museum, 23, 370, 383, 385 natural history, 23, 148, 302, 370, 383, 385 Navan, 124 photography, 128–29 Newcastle, 376 sheep, 309 Newgrange, Boyne Valley, 19, 123, 124, Skellig Islands, 254 175–76 transport, 29, 172, 174, 383–85 Newman House, Dublin, 134–35, 148 wine, 227–28 Newspapers, travel information in, 40 workhouse, 383, 390, 395–96 Nightlife. See Entertainment and nightlife writers, 26–27, 132, 134–35, 137–38, 174, Niland Gallery, Sligo Town, 352 177 Nora Barnacle House, Galway, 315 Music Norman Invasion, 11 best experiences, 26–27 North , 169 classical, 161, 388 North Donegal, 360–66 Dublin, 27, 122–23 accommodations, 342, 361–63 Galway, 311 arrival at, 361 pub crawls, 27, 122–23 attractions, 345, 364–65 shopping for, 169 exploring, 363–64 Sligo Town, 341 information, 361 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:05 PM Page 428

428 INDEX

N (continued) Old Abbey, Donegal Town, 358–59 Old Bushmills Distillery, Antrim Coast, 383, North Donegal (continued) 404 Letterkenny, 337, 348–49 Old Courthouse, Kinsale, 227 restaurants, 353, 366 , 194 transportation, 361 Old Jameson Distillery, Dublin, 131, 132, North Peninsula, 74 134–35 Northern Ireland, 367–405 Old Midleton Distillery, 190, 220 accommodations, 373 Old Weir Bridge, Muckross Lake, 246 Antrim Coast, 373, 383, 400–405 Olympia Theatre, Dublin, 128, 162 Belfast. See Belfast Omagh, 378 Derry, 373, 383, 389–97 One Man’s Pass, 346, 360 driving tours, 88–91, 377–81 Opera, Dublin, 161 Enniskillen, 379, 383, 397–400 Opera House, Cork, 207 history, 367 Oriental art museums, 22, 132–35 maps, 368–70 Oscar Wilde House, Dublin, 129, 132, 134–35 not-to-be-missed attractions, 367 Oughterard, 308, 324 overview, 8 South of Derry, 397–400 P walking, 376, 380–81 Package deals, 39–40 Northern Ireland Tourist Board, 43 Packing, 44–47 Northwest of Ireland, 337–66 Parke’s Castle, Lough Gill, 25, 354–55 accommodations, 342 Parking, Cork, 204 attractions, 337, 345 Parks Donegal Town, 342, 345, 353, 356–60 Ards Forest Park, 347, 348, 363 driving tours, 75, 85–88, 347–51 Ballycroy National Park, 76 Drumcliff, 355–56 Burren National Park, 301, 304 Killybegs, 353, 359–60 Connemara National Park, 76, 304–5, 324 Lough Gill, 354–55 Derrynane National Historic Park, 244 maps, 338–39 Glenariff Forest Park, 73, 376, 402 North Donegal, 342, 345, 353, 360–66 Glenveagh National Park, 21, 73–76, 349, not-to-be-missed attractions, 337 364 overview, 8 Killarney National Park, 21, 76, 243–48 restaurants, 353 Phoenix, 106, 130–31 Rosses Point, 355–56 Tollymore Forest Park, 376 Slieve League, 21, 74, 346, 360 Wicklow National Park, 76, 125, 177–78 Sligo Town, 337–56 , Dublin, 127–28 walking, 346–47, 350–51 Passports, 45–47, 59 Number 29 house, Dublin, 132, 134–35, 143 Patrick Street, Cork, 207, 215 Pay phones, 51–52 O Peat harvesting, Connemara, 324 O’Brien’s Tower, Cliffs of Moher, 297 Performing arts. See also Music Oceanworld Aquarium, Dingle, 259 Belfast, 388 O’Connell, Daniel, 252, 288 Dublin, 160–62 O’Connell Street, Dublin, 103, 106, 127–28, Galway, 320 166 Phoenix Park, Dublin, 106, 130–31 O’Donnell family, Donegal Castle, 23–24, 358 Photography museums, 128–29 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:06 PM Page 429

SUBJECT INDEX 429

Pilgrim’s Path, Connemara, 305 R Point Depot, Dublin, 162 Racing, horse, Dublin, 171 Portora Royal School, Enniskillen, 398 Rail line, Dublin, 108–9 Portrush, 377, 400, 401 Rail passes, 66, 68 Portstewart, 376 Rain, 38–39 Post Office, Dublin, 127 , 347, 361, 363 Post offices, 53 Rathkeale, 276–77 Potato Famine, 13–14 Rathmullan, 361, 363 Pottery, shopping for, 100 Reasc, 264 Poulaphouca reservoir, 125 Recess, 308 Poulnabrone , The Burren, 302, 306 Recreation, 76–78 Powerscourt House and Gardens, Wicklows, Adare, 274 129, 174, 179 beaches. See Beaches Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, Dublin, 129 biking, 71–73, 321 Prehistoric sites, 9–10 bird-watching, 76 Ballycrovane Ogham Stone, 246 Connemara, 326 best of, 19 Cork, 215 Caherconnel Fort, 302 Dingle, 262–63 Cahermore Stone Fort, 302 Dublin, 169–71 Carrowkeel, 19, 345 Ennis, 291–92 Carrowmore, 19, 340, 344–45 Enniskillen, 399–400 Céide Fields, 336 fishing, 76–77, 169–70, 274, 321, 326 Craggaunowen theme park, 28, 289 football, 171 Derreena Taggart, 245 Galway, 321 Drombeg Stone Circle, 194 golf. See Golf Dún Aenghus, 323 hiking, 326 Dunbeg Fort, 245, 263 horse racing, 171 Giant’s Ring, 383 horseback riding, 78, 170 Gleninsheen, 302 hurling, 171 Newgrange, 19, 123, 124, 175–76 jogging, 170 , 302, 306 Kilrush, 296 Staigue Fort, 251 Kinsale, 230–31 Teernahilane Ring Fort, 245 Sligo Town, 354 Prisons spectator sports, 53–57, 171, 388–89 Cork City Gaol, 190, 203, 210 swimming, 169, 170 Kilmainham Gaol, 26, 130–32, 134–35, walking. See Walking 140–41 water sports, 78, 170, 230–31, 326, , Dublin, 162 399–400 Pub crawls Reenadinna Wood, Muckross Lake, 246–47 literary, 26–27, 121 Refunds, value-added taxes, 51, 101 music, 27, 122–23 Regional Museum, Kinsale, 227 Pubs, Dublin, 162–63 Relief of Derry Celebration, 391 Purple Mountain, 247 Religious sites. See Abbey(s); Church(es); Q Monasteries Queenstown Story, Cobh, 25, 190, 223–24 Reservations, accommodations, Quiet Man Cottage, Cong, 331 95–96 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:06 PM Page 430

430 INDEX

R (continued) , 272 River Owenbeagh, 349 Restaurants, 97–99. See also separate River Shimna, 376 restaurant index Roaringwater Bay, 249 Adare, 272–74 Rocks. See also Stone circles Antrim Coast, 404–5 Ballycrovane Ogham Stone, 246 Belfast, 370, 385–87 in Blarney Castle, 23, 190, 203, 208–9 best of, 32–35 Bridges of Ross, 294 Clifden, 301, 329–30 Cliffs of Moher, 20, 297–98, 305–7 Cork, 197, 212–14 Giants Causeway, 383, 403–4 costs, 38–39, 97–98 , 18–19, 190, 199–201 Derry, 390, 396–97 Slieve League, 21, 74, 346, 360 Dingle, 239, 259–62 Rope bridge, Carrick-a-Rede, 28, 377, 383, Donegal Town, 353, 359 402 Doolin, 299–301 Rosapenna Beach, 347 Dublin, 149–60 Rosguill Peninsula, 347 East Cork, 197, 221–22 Ross, Bridges of, Kilkee, 294 Ennis, 273, 290–91 , Killarney, 25, 250–51 Enniskillen, 399 Ross Errilly Abbey, 307 Galway, 301, 317–19 Rossaveel, 308 Kenmare, 239–40 Rosscarbery, 194 Kilkenny, 196–99 Rosses Point, 354–55 Killybegs, 353 Rothe House, Kilkenny, 188–89 Kilrush, 273, 296 Roundstone, 308 Kinsale, 197, 229–30 Roundwood, 125 Limerick, 273, 284–85 Royal Dublin Society, 162 Midleton, 197, 221–22 Royal Hospital Kilmainham–Irish Museum of North Donegal, 353, 366 Modern Art, Dublin, 130, 132, rating, 98–99 134–35, 145 Sligo Town, 352–53 tipping in, 97 S Westport, 301, 335 Sailing, 78, 170, 230–31 Rhododendron Gardens, Howth Castle, 172, St. Anne Shandon, Cork, 28, 190, 203, 209–10 174 St. Anne’s Cathedral, Belfast, 377 Riding horseback, 78, 170, 264 St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny, 188, 190, 196 Ring of Kerry (Iveragh Peninsula), 241, 244, St. Colman’s Cathedral, Cobh, 222–23 251–52 St. Columb’s Cathedral, Derry, 390, 393 , 315 St. Finbarr’s Cathedral, 207 , 277 St. George’s Arcade, Dublin, 166 , 356 St. Joseph’s Convent, Dingle, 258 , 287 St. Mary’s Cathedral, Limerick, 282 , 389 St. Mary’s Dominican Church, Cork, 207 River Garavogue, 337, 344 St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral, Dublin, 127, 134–35 , 383 St. Molaise monastery, Enniskillen, 398 , 207 St. Multose Church, Kinsale, 227 , 363 St. Nicholas, Collegiate Church of, Galway, 315 , 127 St. Patrick’s Bridge, Cork, 10, 207 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:06 PM Page 431

SUBJECT INDEX 431

St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin, 18, 132, hours for, 100–101 134–35, 146 Kilkenny, 199 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin, 106, 129 Limerick, 285 Sally Gap, 125 markets, 167 Salmon Weir Bridge, Galway, 315 music, 169 Centre, Dublin, 161 pottery, 100 Sandycove, 174, 176–77 salespeople in, 101 Sandymount, 169 shopping centers, 167 Scattery Island Centre, Kilrush, 293 woolens, 100, 168, 331 Schull, 249 Sightseeing. See Exploring Scilly Walk, 192 Sinn Féin offices, Belfast, 382 Sciuird Archaeology Tours, 264 Skellig Experience, 254 Scrib, 308 Skellig Islands, 19, 252–54 Seasons to visit, 37–39, 53–57 Skellig Loop, 251 Senior travelers, 48–49 Skellig Ring, 251–52 Seven Heads, West Cork, 194 Skibbereen, 248 Shanagarry, 218 Sky Road, Clifden, 309, 325 Shandon Church, Cork, 28, 190, 203, 209–10 Slane, 124 Shandon Quarter, Cork, 207 Slea Head, 245, 263 , Belfast, 26, 375, 379, 381 Slieve League, 21, 74, 346, 360 Shannon. See Lower Shannon Slievemore, Achill Island, 336 , 60 Sligo Abbey, 340, 345–47 Shaw, George Bernard, 27, 132, 134–35, Sligo County Museum, 340, 348–49, 352 146–47 Sligo Town, 337–56 Sheep museums, 309 accommodations, 341–44 , 347, 348 arrival at, 341 Sheep’s Head Peninsula, 247–48 attractions, 344–49, 352 Sherkin Island, 249 entertainment and nightlife, 353 Shopping, 99–101 exploring, 344 antiques, 99–100, 167–68 information, 341 Belfast, 389 maps, 340 books, 100, 168 recreation, 354 Clifden, 330 restaurants, 352–53 clothing, 100 special events, 341 Cong, 331 transportation, 341 Cork, 215 Smith-Barry clan, Fota House, 190, crafts, 168–69, 262 218–19 credit cards for, 101 Sneem, 251 crystal and china, 100, 168 Soccer, Dublin, 171 department stores, 167 South of Ireland, 181–231 Dingle, 262 accommodations, 186 Donegal Town, 359 attractions, 181, 190 Dublin, 166–69 Cashel, 190, 193–94, 199 Ennis, 291 Cobh, 190, 222–24 Galway, 320–21 Cork, 186, 190, 197, 202–15 heritage items, 168 driving tours, 79–80, 82 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:06 PM Page 432

432 INDEX

S (continued) Giant’s Ring, 383 South of Ireland (continued) Kenmare, 238 East Cork, 186, 190, 197, 215–22 Streetcars, Dublin, 110 Kilkenny, 181, 184–99 Swimming, Dublin, 169, 170 Kinsale, 186, 190, 192, 197, 224–31 Synge, J. M., 321 maps, 182–83 Midleton, 186, 190, 192, 197, 215–22 T not-to-be-missed attractions, 181 Talbot Botanic Garden, Malahide, 24–25, 173 overview, 8 Talbot family, , 24–25, 29, restaurants, 197 173–75 walking, 192 Tarbert, 274, 277 Waterford, 190, 201–2 Taxes, value-added, 51, 97–98, 100 West Cork, 194 Taxis Southwest of Ireland, 233–65 Belfast, 382 accommodations, 237 Dublin, 110 attractions, 233, 241 Teelin, 360 Beara Peninsula, 241, 243 Teernahilane Ring Fort, 245 Dingle, 254–63 Telephones, 51–53 Dingle Peninsula, 263–65 Temperatures, 39 driving tours, 242, 248–49 Temple Bar, Dublin, 106, 128–29, 166 Iveragh Peninsula (Ring of Kerry), 241, 244, Theater 251–52 Dublin, 160–61 Kenmare, 233–41 Galway, 320 Killarney National Park, 21, 243–51 Tholsel, Kilkenny, 188 maps, 234 Tigh Neachtain, Galway, 315 not-to-be-missed attractions, 233 Timoleague, 194 overview, 8 Tipping, 97 restaurants, 239 memorials, 190, 223–24, 382 The Skelligs, 19, 252–54 Titanic Trail Tours, Cobh, 222 walking, 24, 244–48 Tivoli theater, 162 Special events. See also specific locations Tollymore Forest Park, 376 calendar for, 53–57 Tooremore Bay, 249 Spectator sports Torc Waterfall, 245, 246 Belfast, 388–89 Tory Island, 348 calendar for, 53–57 Tours Dublin, 171 Belfast, 379, 382 Sperrin Mountains, 397 Connemara, 325 Spiddle, 308 Derry, 394–95 Sports. See Recreation Dingle Peninsula, 264 Sruffaunboy, Connemara, 304 for disabled visitors, 48 Stables, 78, 170, 264 driving. See Driving tours Staigue Fort, Iveragh Peninsula, 251 escorted, 42, 69–70 Steeplechases, Dublin, 171 Galway, 316 Stone circles Limerick, 282 Derreena Taggart, 245 Skellig Islands, 253 Drombeg, 194 walking. See Walking 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:06 PM Page 433

SUBJECT INDEX 433

Tower Museum Derry, 383, 390, 394, 395 Kenmare, 235 Towers Kilkenny, 185 Albert Memorial Clock Tower, 377–78 Kilrush, 292 James Joyce, 174, 177 Kinsale, 225 Martello, 122 Limerick, 281 O’Brien’s, 297 Midleton, 216 Turnley’s, 378 North Donegal, 361 Traffic Sligo Town, 341 cautions with, 108 wheelchair access in, 48 Cork, 204 Travel agents, 39–40 Dublin, 108, 110 Trim, 124–25 Trains, 61–63, 66, 68 Trinitarian Abbey, Adare, 272 Belfast, 371–72 Trinity College, Dublin, 17, 106, 128, 131–32 Cobh, 223 , 16–17 Derry, 391 Belfast, 375, 379, 381 Dublin, 60 Derry, 394 Galway, 311 Turnley’s Tower, 378 Limerick, 281 Twelve Bens (Pins) Mountains, Connemara, route map, 62 304, 324 Sligo Town, 341 Tynan’s Walking Tours, Kilkenny, 189 ticket purchase, 63 U Tralee–Blennerville Steam Train, 279 wheelchair access in, 48 Ulster, 267. See also Northern Ireland Tralee, 275, 279–80 Ulster Folk and Transport Museum, Belfast, Tralee—Blennerville Steam Train, 279 29, 383–85 Tranarossan Strand, 347 Ulster Museum, Belfast, 23, 370, 383, 385 Transport museums Ulster-American Folk Park, 378 National Transport Museum of Howth, 29, V 172, 174 Value-added taxes, 51, 97–98, 100 Ulster Folk and Transport Museum, 29, Vandeleur Walled Garden, Kilrush, 275, 295–96 383–85 VATs (value-added taxes), 51, 97–98, 100 Transportation, 61–68. See also Car travel; Vee, 193 specific types, eg, Buses Vehicle museums, 29, 172 Adare, 269 Ventry, 245 Antrim Coast, 400 Verbal Arts Centre, Derry, 390, 393–94 Aran Islands, 322 Viking history, 10–11 Belfast, 371–72 Dublinia and the Viking World, 130, 132, Cobh, 223 134–37 Cork, 204 Viking Splash tours, 124–25 Derry, 391 Visas, 45–47 Dingle, 255 Dublin, 60, 108–10 W East Cork, 216 Walking Ennis, 286 best routes for, 73–74 Enniskillen, 397 Cobh, 222 Galway, 311 Cork, 192, 208 15_598929_bindex.qxd 8/4/06 12:06 PM Page 434

434 INDEX

W (continued) not-to-be-missed attractions, 298 Walking (continued) overview, 8 , 292 walking, 304–5, 310 Dublin, 108, 121–23, 126–31 Westport, 300, 301, 303, 322–35 escorted tours, 69, 72–73 Westport, 332–35 festivals for, 73 accommodations, 300, 333–34 Galway, 316 arrival at, 332 holidays for, 72–73 attractions, 303, 334–35 Kinsale, 192 exploring, 334 Lower Shannon, 276, 278 information, 332 maps for, 70–71 restaurants, 301, 335 Northern Ireland, 376, 380–81 Westport House, 303, 334–35 Northwest of Ireland, 346–47, 350–51 Wheelchair access, 48 route information, 71–72 Whiskey production. See Distilleries South of Ireland, 192 White family, Bantry House, 243 Southwest of Ireland, 242, 244–48 Whitefriar Street Carmelite Church, Dublin, West of Ireland, 304–5, 310 148 War of Independence, 15–16 , 22, 75, 174, 177–79 Washerwoman’s Rock, 253 Wicklow National Park, 76, 125, 177–78 Water sports, 78 , 74, 76, 122, 177 Connemara, 326 Wilde, Oscar, 129, 132, 134–35 Dublin, 170 Wildlife parks, Fota Wildlife Park, 28, 190, Enniskillen, 399–400 219–20 Kinsale, 230–31 Windmills, Blennerville, 279–80 Waterfalls Windsurfing, Dublin, 170 Aasleagh, 332 Wine museums, 227–28 Glenariff Forest Park, 376 Wishing Pool, Adare, 272 Torc, 245, 246 Wolf Shipyard, Belfast, 382 Waterford, attractions, 190, 201–2 Woolens Waterford Crystal Factory, 100, 190, 201–2 Leenane Sheep and Wool Museum, 309 Waterfront Hall, Belfast, 388 shopping for, 100, 168, 331 Watergate, Enniskillen, 397–98 Workhouse Museum, Derry, 383, 390, Weather, 38–39, 47 395–96 West Clare Peninsula, 275, 292–96 Writers museums West Cork, driving tours, 194 best of, 26–27 West of Ireland, 297–336 Dublin, 27, 132, 134–35, 137–38 Achill Island, 74, 336 Sandycove, 174, 177 Aran Islands, 321–23 Y The Burren, 301–7 Céide Fields, 336 Yeats, Jack, 75, 349, 352, 355 Clifden, 300, 301, 327–30 Yeats, William Butler, 27, 75, 121, 337, 340, Cliffs of Moher, 20, 297–98, 305–7 349, 352, 354, 355, 356 Cong, 300, 330–31 , 193, 218 Connemara, 303, 323–26 Doolin, 299–301 Z driving tours, 83–85, 305–10 Zoos Galway, 300, 301, 303, 308–9, 311–21 Dublin, 28, 134–35, 147–48 maps, 298 Fota Wildlife Park, 28, 190, 219–20