Traditional Hide Tanning Techniques of the Saskatchewan Woods Cree
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Traditional Hide Tanning Techniques of the Saskatchewan Woods Cree ANNA LEIGHTON Saskatoon, Saskatchewan A Cree woman introduced me to the practical art of hide tanning when I was doing a study of Saskatchewan Woods Cree plant names and uses in 1979 and 1980. She asked me to help her tan a hide and taught me what to do as we went along. After a time she began to see my involvement as an opportunity to write a booklet to teach people how to tan hides; she asked me to record the process and write it up with her help. The booklet was an important project to her because older women, like herself, are getting too old to do the hard work of tanning and few young women are learning the craft. This is affecting the supply of traditionally tanned leather that people like her rely on to make moccasins and mittens for their own use and for sale. So, at her initiative, we put together a how-to booklet on hide tanning based on the method she learned as a young woman from her mother (Hastings and Leighton 1993). I was very glad to work on this hide tanning booklet for several reasons. First, I quickly became interested in the hide tanning process. The more I learned about it, the more I realized that it is a complex and intricate process that requires a great deal of know-how. In addition, it produces a very high quality of leather for clothing that is flexible, soft, warm, tough and unharmed by moisture. Secondly, I became interested in the process of recording a technology like hide tanning, which, aside from several tools, a few raw materials and some home-made equipment, is simply a series of processes, done in a certain sequence and in a certain way. It is the kind of thing that is best learned by working with someone who knows how to do it, and is difficult to describe in words. The Woods Cree woman I worked with described hide tanning as a process involving ten procedures that are named in Cree. I took these named procedures to be fundamental and used these, in translation, to be the framework for describing her method of hide tanning. The details of 196 ANNA LEIGHTON each step were learned from what she showed me and in discussions with her about what was important and how to do things right. What I will present here is a description of the hide tanning method of this particular woman and then a brief comparison of her method with two other Saskatchewan methods, to give an idea of the kind of variation that exists. Although tanning involves a lot of hard physical work, it is actually a chemical process. Fundamental to every tanning method are chemicals, called tanning agents, that alter the structure of the hide to give it the properties of leather. Native North Americans typically used fatty animal tissues, such as brain, liver and fat, as tanning agents. This kind of tanning is called oil tanning. Many groups, like the Cree, used smoke, in addition to fatty tissues, as a tanning agent. This is referred to as smoke tanning and is what this paper is about. What do the chemicals do? They enter the hide and replace the water molecules that, in the living animal, bind together the collagen fibres which make up the animal's skin. The water in the hide must be replaced because it is a poor binding agent; as the hide dries, the water evaporates and the hide becomes stiff. If the untreated hide comes into contact with water, water molecules will bind to the collagen fibres again, attract more water, and soon cause the hide to rot. The tanning chemicals are good binding agents because they do not leave the hide as it dries. Their presence keeps the hide flexible and water repellant, so that even if the hide does get wet, the water will not bind to the collagen fibres and cause damage. Tanning, then, is the process of replacing the bound water with other chemicals. Much of the hard physical work involved helps to bring about this replacement. The Cree smoke tanning method I recorded can be summarized as follows. The hide is stretched on a wooden frame before it is fleshed and dehaired. When the flesh layer and then the hair layers have been removed, the tanning agents, the cooked brain of the animal and some grease, are applied to the hide. The hide is gently heated to ensure complete penetration of these two throughout the hide. When the hide has been heated enough, it is placed in warm soapy water and worked with the hands by squeezing water through the pores of the hide. When the hide has been sufficiently softened by this method, all the water is TRADITIONAL HIDE TANNING TECHNIQUES 197 Figure 1: a stretched hide, showing the placement of the ropes wrung out of it on a powerful wringer and the hide is then pulled until it is completely dry. When the hide is dry, the flesh side is scraped again to make it smooth and soft and then the hide is placed over a smoky fire to allow the smoke to penetrate the hide and turn it a brown colour. I will explain in more detail how each of these steps is done. Stretching the hide: A properly stretched hide is tight and flat. The entire surface of the hide must be accessible to the tanner and the hide must be stretched tight enough to provide resistance to the fleshing and dehairing tools. Stretching is done by suspending the hide by ropes inside a square wooden frame, called a stretcher, and pulling the ropes as tight as possible. Holes are cut around the edge of the hide and a rope is passed down through each hole and over the stretcher pole. The hide is then pulled up into the centre of the stretcher and stretched tight by tightening the ropes again and again, until they cannot be tightened further. Fleshing the hides: When the hide is stretched, fleshing begins. First, the flesh layer is covered to keep it from drying out and a pole is placed across the stretcher to support the tanner. Fleshing begins at the top of the hide; the flesh layer is removed as one large sheet as the tanner works down the surface of the hide. The fleshing tool is a moose hind leg bone (metatarsus), with a blade shaped at one end. A sling for the 198 ANNA LEIGHTON Figure 2: fleshing a hide with Figure 3: scraping the hide with a bone fleshing tool. a metal bladed scraper. tanner's wrist allows her to deliver force through her arm as well as her hand. This tool is very effective. The blade is directed with a steady chopping motion at the point of attachment of the flesh layer and acts like a wedge that pries the flesh layer away. Fleshing a moose hide takes one person about a day. Dehairing: Next the stretcher, with the hide attached, is turned over so the hair side of the hide is up. The hair and the underlying hair- producing layer, which is embedded in the hide, are removed with a metal-bladed tool called a scraper. This step includes not just removing the hair but also thinning down the hide to a useable thickness. In fall and winter when the animal is growing and maintaining a heavy coat, the hair-producing layer is very thick and requires a lot of shaving with the scraper to thin the hide. The scraper has a metal blade and is used with great force against the surface of the hide. It is honed, frequently to razor sharpness. The scraper is used in two hands — one pushes the tool against the hide, the other pulls it down across the surface. Edward Ahenakew (1948) describes the tanner dehairing a hide as having "the appearance of a patient horse galloping as she wields her tool". This strenuous job takes at least a day. TRADITIONAL HIDE TANNING TECHNIQUES 199 Figure 4: turning the long pole Figure 5: using a pole to pull to wring out a deer hide. the hide as it dries. The fleshed and dehaired hide is rawhide, i.e., the dry, unprocessed layer of hide that is tanned to make leather. Rawhide has many uses but it is unsuitable for clothing because it is rigid, it rots after prolonged wetness, and it becomes stiff on drying. Applying brain and grease to the hide: The rawhide is cut off the stretcher and the actual tanning begins with the application of brain and grease to the hide. The brain is prepared by cooking and mashing it in a small amount of water to make a thick solution. The grease is melted and applied as a warm liquid. After these are spread over the hair side of the hide, the hide is heated in the sun or over a smudge until these substances penetrate deeply into the hide. Squeezing water through the hide: When the brain and grease have penetrated the hide and start to show through on the other side, the hide is soaked in warm soapy water and worked until it is very soft. This is done by squeezing water through the entire hide with the hands. At intervals it is taken from the water, wrung on a wringer (Fig. 4), draped over a pole and scraped with the fleshing tool. Then it is put back into the water for more squeezing.