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PRESS KIT September 14th-18th 2016 World Championships

& paraclimbing

2 Summary

Presentation of the event 3 © photo credits: Gaël BOUQUET des CHAUX/FFME Editorials 4 Anne COMBAZ/FFME Marc DAVIET/FFME Climbing for dummies 6 Rémi FABRÈGUE/FFME Olivier MANSIOT/FFME Olympic Games 7 Marie-Anne MIDY/FFME Program 8 AccorHotels Arena 9 Disciplines 10 Defending champions 14 The world’s bests 16 The world medalists 17 The French team 18 Ticketing 20 Practical information 21 The FFME 22 Media & contacts 23

worldclimbing2016.com September 14th-18th 2016 World Championships Organize the best & paraclimbingclimbing competition ever! 3

© photo credits: Gaël BOUQUET des CHAUX/FFME Anne COMBAZ/FFME Marc DAVIET/FFME Rémi FABRÈGUE/FFME Olivier MANSIOT/FFME Marie-Anne MIDY/FFME

This is “just” what the FFME, in charge of the Climbing World Championships organization at the AccorHotels Arena from the 14th to the 18th of September 2016 – is promising for this climbing world summit. It is time to introduce them.

Five days of competition. The four climbing disci- for us. It is the climbing world supreme title that is plines. The 500 best climbers worldwide competing at stake during a few minutes of competition", tells to win one of the 16 gold medals (at least). This is the Romain Desgranges, one of the biggest 2016 Climbing World Championships scenario that specialists in the French team. will be staged in the biggest arena of the country: The brand new AccorHotels Arena. "Successful and spectacular World Championships are one of the best arguments in favor of our disci- An exceptional venue for the main climbing compe- pline. Bercy perfectly fulfilled this role in 2012. I have tition. "For the moment, they are our Olympic Ga- no doubt on the fact that the teams of the FFME, mes!", states Nicolas Januel, the French which will participate in the organization of the next coach. "Not a single international competition can edition, will succeed in fulfilling again this mission", be compared to Bercy." shares Corentin Le Goff, his concludes Pierre-Henri Paillasson, managing direc- counterpart for lead climbing. Both of the French tor and national technical director at the FFME. A vi- coaches know something about it: they were at the sion shared by Pierre You, president of the FFME: "I bottom of the walls in 2012 during the first Climbing am not afraid of saying it: we organized the greatest World Championships organized in -Bercy. in the world in 2012. We had An oppinion widely shared by the athletes. "Of course only one wish since then: do even better! " the World Cup circuit is very important, but the World Championships have clearly a greater dimension

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4 Editorials

Four years after the unforgettable by the IOC to include in the Tokyo 2012 World Championships, Sport 2020 Olympic Games. Climbing is back in September, in Our sport is riding high, capturing the attention of Paris Bercy, at the newly renovated the youth - and not only - worldwide, with its amazing AccorHotels Arena. This unique and natural movements. The possibilities for growth venue will feature the highest level are endless, as climbing is a human instinct. We are all of competition climbing by top committed to climb higher, stronger and faster, under athletes and para-athletes from the Olympic Values. around the globe.

The 2016 World Championships is the main calen- dar event of what has been a fantastic year for Sport Climbing: a rich World Cup, the World Youth Cham- Marco SCOLARIS, pionships, the 1st World University Sport Climbing President of the International Federation of Championship, and of course, the fantastic decision Sport Climbing

After the success ringing of the countries, the AccorHotels Arena will welcome four 2012 Climbing World Cham- kinds of climbing competitions: lead, bouldering, pionships, is happy to wel- speed and paraclimbing. come again - from the 14th to the The FFME, represented by its President Pierre You 18th September 2016 - this compe- and by the National Technical Director Pierre-Henri tition organized by the Internatio- Paillasson, has been committed for several years on nal Federation of Sport Climbing. the path of performance and development. The suc- The consecutive organization of cess of paraclimbing’s integration in the competition two World Championships shows the excellent health during the last World Championships was an example of the French Federation of mountain and climbing of this successful alchemy. and its efforts to register climbing in the olympic pro- I particularly want to thank the investment of all, gram and to contribute to the success of the applica- managers, elected representatives, volunteers and tion of Paris for the organization of the Olympics in technical frames who will, I am sure, make this event 2024. a success for the climbing community, for Paris, for the Region of Île-de-France and for France. The Climbing World Championships will be organi- zed within the framework of the «new» AccorHotels Arena, where more than 20 000 spectators will be expected. Sport largely practiced, dynamic and spec- tacular, climbing gathers a public who shares enthu- siasm and strong educational and sport values. During this international event which will gather Laurence LEFEVRE, more than 500 athletes who come from 50 different Director of Sports

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Editorials 5

The FFME is delighted to cele- We are very proud to present again paraclimbing at brate the 2016 Climbing World the same time as the other disciplines. This strong Championships in Paris. We orga- commitment shows our will to promote the practice nized the best climbing competi- of this sport to everyone, the public and the climbers. tion in the world in 2012. We had I want to thank all our partners, volunteers, athletes only one wish since then: do even and spectators who contribute to this unforgettable better! competition.

The organization of this international sports event is a new decisive stage for sport climbing. After the decision of the IOC to add sport climbing to the 2020 Pierre YOU, Olympics in Tokyo, hosting such event will be an op- President of the French Federation portunity to promote once more our sport constantly increasing and to reaffirm the sports and educational mountaineering and climbing values that it conveys.

Let’s all support the sports in the Île- taineering and climbing regional committee of Île- de-France region! de-France. The Region supports promotional opera- tions for paraclimbing and actions such as "Climbing There are more than 6 million of and health" It also values involved volunteers and inhabitants in the Île-de-France managers but also the arrival of women leaders as region who practice regularly a phy- well as the creation of a female team. Furthermore, it sical activity. Because sports take helps with the technicians, judges and referees’ trai- an important place in the everyday ning. life of the region’s inhabitants, we choose, besides the world’s actors Today, the Île-de-France Region is a major partner of of sports, to make it a strong axis of the sports movement. our regional politics. We wish the biggest success to all of you, climbers, Our Region welcomes the 2016 organizers, referees and volunteers of the 2016 Clim- Climbing and Paraclimbing World bing and Paraclimbing World Championships. May Championships that will take place this event be a sport celebration for all the Île-de- from the 14th to the 18th of Septem- France’s inhabitants. ber 2016 in the Parisian structure of the AccorHotels Arena and we are proud to bring our support for this athletic and festive event. Valérie PÉCRESSE, This partnership fits within the framework of a sup- Regional President, Île-de-France port strategy to the sports movement. This is how a Patrick KARAM, convention of objectives was signed with the moun- Vice-President convener for Sports Youth and the Volontary Sector

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Ladies and Gentlemen, Welcoming the Climbing World Championships is also a great opportunity to promote and expand the sport. I am very happy to welcome you in Paris, in the new AccorHotels Arena, This sport that is now on the program of the Olympics for the return of a big climbing in Tokyo 2020, conveys values of perfection, surpas- international competition. Indeed, sing oneself, but also environmental protection. Rapi- after the World Championships in dly expanding, sport climbing has already been part of 2012, Paris is very proud to have the Parisian sports landscape for a long time, with 12 the World Championships this year artificial structures, including two new gym walls in La- th th again. doumègue (19 ) and Beaujon (8 ) inaugurated recently. But we also wish to bring the development and the in- As you know, Paris is this year on the center stage of terest around this sport by installing climbing modules the international sports again. In addition to its candi- in public places, to make Paris even more an open-air dacy for the organization of the Olympic and Paralym- playground. pic Games in 2024, we successfully hosted this summer the Euro of football while waiting for next year and for Finally, welcoming the Climbing World Championships the male handball World Championships in January, is also something to share with the Parisians, a show of the male hockey World Championships in May and the high intensity with incredible performances. wrestling World Championships in August. Other big sports events such as the 2018 Ryder Cup and the 2018 I wish you all a very nice climbing week, and I send my Gay Games but also the 2019 women soccer World most sincere encouragements to all the competitors. Championships will reinforce Paris as the worldwide sports capital that is hosting major sports events. Jean-François MARTINS, Deputy Mayor of Paris convener for Sports

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TOP

WORLD 20 000 CHAMPION 500 SPECTATORS 16 TITLES CLIMBERS 5 DAYS OF COMPÉTITION

THE FRENCH THE SPEED RECORDS

Already 38 French medals won during CLIMBING 15 METERS IN 5.60! It’s the men speed world record. Climbing World Championships, including medals during the last 2014 Climbing World Championships World records 6 th 7.53 Iuliia KAPLINA (RUS) on Jul. 11 , 2015 Charlotte DURIF IFSC World Cup in Chamonix, FRA Combined (gold) Mathieu BESNARD 5.60 Danyl BOLDYREV (UKR) NPD - A (gold) on Sept. 12th, 2014 - IFSC Climbing World Nicolas MOINEAU Championships in Gijón, ESP Visual impairment (silver) Alban LEVIER French records Combined (bronze) 7.62 Anouck JAUBERT Orianne MORENO 5.82 Bassa MAWEM NPD - A (bronze) The 2 records set on Apr. 25th, 2015 Serge LAURENCIN at the French championships in Voiron. NPD - B (bronze)

DISCIPLINES 4 STRONGER - Bouldering Succeeding to reach the top of a maximum of "boul- HIGHER - Lead & paraclimbing ders" (structures high of 4 meters, protected by lan- ding mats) with the smallest number of attempts, and On a very difficult route high of 15 in a given time. meters, climbing as high as possible (8 min. maximum during the final Speed stages). FASTER - In semi-final and final the climbers On a route known by everyone, be the discover the route just before clim- fastest to reach the top. Ranking with the bing, they have 6 min. to “read” it. time during the qualifications, then multiple They climb "on sight". duels with direct eliminations in final stages. The only difference for the para- climbers is that they climb with a COMPLETE - Combined top rope. Ranking based on the 3 disciplines combined.

IMPRESSIVE LOGISTICS 1 000 000 OCCASIONAL OR REGULAR CLIMBERS, IN FRANCE 3 km of ropes of them, 93 000 to be precise, + 10% are members of the FFME : • + 49% members in 10 years Endless climbing surface ! • 1010 FFME affiliated clubs 2 of overall climbing surface 250 m for les 4 disciplines ++ de 20 tons of walls + de 800 holds & volumes

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9 OLYMPIC GAMES

The IOC officially accepted the inclusion of Sport Climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics Games! Marco SCOLARIS, President of the IFSC: “We are so happy that Sport Climbing will be partici- pating in the Games of Tokyo. The Olympics have been our dream for quite some time, and now the hard work has finally paid off. We would like to thank the IOC for extending a truly unique opportunity to our sport.” Pierre YOU, President of the FFME: "An anomaly has just been corrected: one of the most natu- ral movements of the human body - climbing - is now in the Olympics! It is the outcome of many years of hard work from the international federation and its members. We are delighted at the FFME!" Shared values Sport Climbing embodies core values of the Olympics Movement. It is an exciting, healthy and affordable sport which can be practiced on all five continents. Women and youth are well repre- sented, and persons with disabilities participate as well. The sport is growing in popularity. The journey continues Although the road to official approval has concluded, the work is far from finished. Many steps must be taken to prepare for the upcoming Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. Pierre-Henri PAILLASSON, National Technical Director and Managing Director at the FFME: "It is a new step for sport climbing, which was already in a nice dynamic. It is a very good news for the top level and the French teams, but also for the development of our federation and our practices." What about athletes reactions? Gautier SUPPER, lead French team member: "It is a nice reward considering the IFSC invest- ment over these last years. The consequences of this decision can be very important for all of us. With a bigger media coverage, we are going to be able to share our passion with more people, it is a very good thing!" Romain DESGRANGES, lead French team member: "2020 is still far away and there are still some competitions to participate in, in the meantime. But it is a big news: it is now our job to show to the public that sport climbing is a beautiful sport with its values and athletes involved." Anouck JAUBERT, speed French team member: "The inclusion of sport climbing in the Olym- pics Movement testifies its major evolution over these last years. It should help accelerating its development, with more resources, a framework, media coverage, passion... As an athlete, it makes me dream! It is an opportunity to have our sport discovered by a large public, and to make the French people vibrate by winning medals! It is the beginning of a new era!"

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10 Program AccorHotels Arena

Wednesday, September 14th 9:00 - 16:00 Qualification MEN BOULDER 10:00 - 15:00 Qualification PARACLIMBING ROUTE 1 10:00 - 15:00 Qualification WOMEN LEAD Thursday, September 15th 9:00 - 16:30 Qualification MEN LEAD 9:00 - 14:00 Qualification PARACLIMBING 10:00 - 15:00 Qualification WOMEN BOULDER Friday, September 16th 11:00 - 13:30 Qualification MEN & WOMEN SPEED 18:30 - 21:30 Finals PARACLIMBING O ( O RP3, O AU-2 , O > RP-1, O > B-2, O > RP-2, AL-2, O > RP-3 ) 19:00 - 21:30 Semi-final MEN BOULDER Semi-final WOMEN LEAD 21:30 AWARDING CEREMONY PARACLIMBING Saturday, September 17th 9:00 - 11:30 Semi-final WOMEN BOULDER Semi-final MEN LEAD 17:00 - 17:30 OPENING CEREMONY 17:30 - 19:00 Final MEN BOULDER 19:00 - 19:30 Final PARACLIMBING - O > B1 19:30 AWARDING CEREMONY MEN BOULDER & PARACLIMBING BREAK 20:15 - 21:00 Final MEN SPEED 21:00 - 22:00 Final WOMEN LEAD 22:00 - 22:15 AWARDING CEREMONY MEN SPEED & WOMEN LEAD Sunday, September 18th 12:00 - 13:30 Final WOMEN BOULDER 13:30 - 14:00 Final PARACLIMBING - O > AL-2 14:00 - 14:15 AWARDING CEREMONY WOMEN BOULDER & PARACLIMBING BREAK 14:45 - 15:30 Final WOMEN SPEED 15:30 - 16:30 Final MEN LEAD 16:30 - 16:50 AWARDING CEREMONY WOMEN SPEED & MEN LEAD 16:50 - 17:05 CLOSING CEREMONY

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AccorHotels Arena 11

Wednesday, September 14th 9:00 - 16:00 Qualification MEN BOULDER 10:00 - 15:00 Qualification PARACLIMBING ROUTE 1 10:00 - 15:00 Qualification WOMEN LEAD Thursday, September 15th 9:00 - 16:30 Qualification MEN LEAD 9:00 - 14:00 Qualification PARACLIMBING 10:00 - 15:00 Qualification WOMEN BOULDER Friday, September 16th 11:00 - 13:30 Qualification MEN & WOMEN SPEED The Palais Omnisports of Paris Bercy got a facelift in innovative services which will provide new expe- 18:30 - 21:30 Finals PARACLIMBING 2015! Becoming the AccorHotels Arena, a modern riences for attending audience. venue, more welcoming and open onto the city, the ( RP3, AU-2 , RP-1, B-2, RP-2, AL-2, RP-3 ) As a place of artistic, musical and sports achieve- new arena confirms its ranking in the top 5 global 19:00 - 21:30 Semi-final MEN BOULDER ments, with more than 30 million spectators over arenas and will contribute to the international in- thirty years the AccorHotels Arena now competes Semi-final WOMEN LEAD fluence of Paris. 21:30 AWARDING CEREMONY PARACLIMBING with the largest indoor facilities in the world. Big Thought and designed to fit almost all the sports events like the Paris Grand Slam – the most impor- th events and every type of entertainment, this true tant Judo event – the BNP Paribas Masters, the Saturday, September 17 living space can host 20 300 people in its largest greatest indoor tennis event and, of course, the 9:00 - 11:30 Semi-final WOMEN BOULDER configuration. Offering a numerous number of 2012 Climbing World Championships. Semi-final MEN LEAD 17:00 - 17:30 OPENING CEREMONY 17:30 - 19:00 Final MEN BOULDER 19:00 - 19:30 Final PARACLIMBING - B1 4th Arena in the world, 19:30 AWARDING CEREMONY MEN BOULDER & 20 300 seats, PARACLIMBING 130 events per year, BREAK 100% connected with mass wifi, 20:15 - 21:00 Final MEN SPEED 30 room configurations (sports and concerts). 21:00 - 22:00 Final WOMEN LEAD 22:00 - 22:15 AWARDING CEREMONY MEN SPEED & WOMEN LEAD Sunday, September 18th 12:00 - 13:30 Final WOMEN BOULDER 13:30 - 14:00 Final PARACLIMBING - AL-2 14:00 - 14:15 AWARDING CEREMONY WOMEN BOULDER & PARACLIMBING BREAK 14:45 - 15:30 Final WOMEN SPEED 15:30 - 16:30 Final MEN LEAD 16:30 - 16:50 AWARDING CEREMONY WOMEN SPEED & MEN LEAD 16:50 - 17:05 CLOSING CEREMONY

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12 disciplines

Lead

The aim is to go as high as possible on a 15m wall. Clim- bers have a limited amount of time (6 minutes in qua- lifications and 8 minutes for semi-finals and finals) for their attempt. In semi-finals and finals, the climbers have no prior knowledge of the route (they are said to climb "on sight"). They do not see the previous clim- bers’ attempts (unlike in qualifications) but there is a collective observation time (6 minutes).

Male and female climbers have different routes.

Handholds can be: • Controlled and stable: the height is recorded by way of the last controlled hold; • Used: the climber has controlled the hold and begun to move towards the next hold (in which case the height will be recorded with a “+").

Competition organization Qualification: two qualifying pools, split according to international rankings over two routes: the 13 best climbers from each pool qualify. Semi-final: one semi-final route: the 8 best climbers qualify. Final: one final route.

The routes are modified between each round.

Ranking This is dictated by the height achieved by the climber.

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disciplines 13

Paraclimbing

In July 2011, the IFSC embraced disability in sport, organising the first ever Paraclimbing World Championships in the history of climbing. Since then three Paraclimbing World Championships have taken place (Arco 2011, Paris 2012 and Gijón 2014), enabling the discipline to firmly establish itself in the climbing world.

Climbers are belayed on top rope.

Male and female climbers have different routes.

Competition organization The number of categories that will be featured, will depend on the number of climbers enrolled and the number of countries represented. Two qualification routes per category (the number of qualifiers will depend on the number of participants) One final route

Ranking This is dictated by the height achieved by the climber (see Lead).

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14 disciplines

bouldering The aim is to solve (complete) the most problems in the least Semi-final: One semi-final 4( problems): the best 6 climbers amount of attempts over a given period of time, on several qualify. 4m structures, equipped with safety mats. Final: One final 4( problems). The climbers have a specified amount of time (5 minutes in qualifications and semi-finals, 4 in finals) in which to at- Ranking tempt each problem in turn. This is dictated by the number of problems solved. The Male and female climbers have different routes. climber to solve the most problems wins. If there is a tie, the number of attempts is counted. If there is still a tie, the number of bonus* holds is taken into account and then the Competition organization number of attempts to reach the bonus*. Qualification: One qualifying round (5 problems) with two pools (as for lead): the 10 best climbers from each pool *Intermediate holds in the problem, identified by a colour code. qualify.

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disciplines 15

Speed

The aim is to be the fastest to get to the top of a 15m high wall.

Competition organization One Qualification phase: each climber has two attempts in which to lodge the fastest time possible. The best 16 climbers qualify.

One final phase: depending on their ranking after the qualifications, climbers will face off 2 by 2 (the 1st against the 16th, the 2nd against the 15th, etc.) in 8th finals, quarter finals, semi-finals and finals.

Ranking The climbers duel in pairs on absolutely identical routes. The winner is the first to arrive at the top of the route. Records For the last 9 years, there has been a homologated standard 15m wall, the only one that enables records to be validated.

World records Female: 7.53, Iuliia KAPLINA (RUS) on Jul. 11th, 2015 IFSC World Cup - Chamonix (FRA) Male: 5.60, Danyl BOLDYREV (UKR) on Sept. 12th, 2014 - IFSC World Championships - Gijón (ESP) French records Female: 7.62, Anouck JAUBERT on Apr. 25th, 2015, French Championships 2015, Voiron Male: 5.82, Bassa MAWEM on Apr. 25th, 2015, French Championships 2015, Voiron September 14th-18th 2016 World Championships

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16 Defending champions

LEAD BOULDERING

Jain KIM (KOR) (CZE) Juliane WURM (GER) Adam ONDRA (CZE)

SPEED COMBINED

Alina GAIDAMAKINA Daniyl BOLDYREV Charlotte DURIF (FRA) Sean McCOLL (CAN) (RUS) (UKR)

2014 Climbing World Championships - Gijón (ESP) & Munich (GER) LEAD SPEED BOULDERING COMBINED O femmeO hommeO> O> O O> O O> KIM J. (KOR) ONDRA A. (CZE) GAIDAMAKINA A. (RUS) BOLDYREV D. WURM J. (GER) ONDRA A. (CZE) DURIF C. (FRA) McCOLL S. (CAN) (UKR) MARKOVIC M. (SLO) PUIGBLANQUE R.J. BUCZEK K. (POL) KOKORIN S. (RUS) PUCCIO A. (USA) KRUDER J. (SLO) KLINGER P. (SUI) HOJER J. (GER) (ESP) RÖCK M. (AUT) AMMA S. (JPN) RUDZINSKA A. (POL) ALIPOURSHENA- NOGUCHI A. (JPN) HOJER J. (GER) MARKOVIC M. LEVIER A. (FRA) ZANDIFAR R. (IRN) (SLO)

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Mineo ONO (JPN)

Jain KIM (KOR) Adam ONDRA (CZE) Juliane WURM (GER) Adam ONDRA (CZE)

Mathieu BESNARD (FRA)

Nicolas MOINEAU (FRA)

Mineo ONO (JPN)

Alina GAIDAMAKINA Daniyl BOLDYREV Charlotte DURIF (FRA) Sean McCOLL (CAN) (RUS) (UKR) Oriane MORENO (FRA)

PARACLIMBING

2014 Climbing World Championships - Gijon - (ESP) VISUAL IMPAIRMENT AMPUTEE LEG PD NPD A NPD B femme / womO - B2 - B2 O > - B1 O O> O O> O> REFOLO A. (ITA) KOBAYASHI K. (JPN) BRELSFORD C. (USA) C.BARANDIARAN U. (ESP) ORBAEN E. (BEL) BESNARD M. (FRA) SZIJARTO A. (HUN) POGGIOLI G. (ITA) MOINEAU N. (FRA) SAWFORD K. (CAN) RONALD D. (USA) PAOLINI T. (ITA) KUMAR M. (IND) CORNAMUSINI A. (ITA) GLUSIC T. (SLO) STEFANI M. (ITA) HARTE E. (GBR) DEMARTINO C. (USA) MORENO O. (FRA) KHALAJI B. (IRL) LAURENCIN S. (FRA) September 14th-18th 2016 World Championships

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18 The world’s bests 2016 Overall World Cup ranking Starters: http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=1563

LEAD

Janja GARNBRET (SLO) Domen SKOFIC (CZE) Anak VERHOEVEN (BEL) (AUT) Jain KIM (KOR) Romain DESGRANGES (FRA)

BOULDERING

Miho NONAKA (JPN) Tomoa NARASAKI (JPN) Mélissa LE NEVÉ (FRA) Kokoro FUJII (JPN) Akiyo NOGUCHI (JPN) Alexey RUBTSOV (RUS)

SPEED

Anouck JAUBERT (FRA) Marcin DZIENSKI (POL) Iuliia KAPLINA (RUS) Libor HROZA (CZE) Aleksandra RUDZINSKA (POL) Daniyl BOLDYREV (UKR)

COMBINED

Janja GARNBRET (SLO) Sean McCOLL (CAN) (AUT) Kokoro FUJII (JPN) Yuka KOBAYASHI (JPN) Jakob SCHUBERT (AUT)

worldclimbing2016.com September 14th-18th 2016 World Championships

& paraclimbing The world medalists 19 2016 Overall World Cup ranking Starters: http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=1563

Lead Speed Bouldering Combined WORLD O O O O CHAMPIONSHIPS femme / woman hommeO >/ man O> O> O> 2012 EITER A. (AUT) SCHUBERT J. (AUT) LEVOCHKINA Y. (RUS) ZHONG Q. (CHN) SANDOZ M. (FRA) SHARAFUTDINOV D. (RUS) KIM J. (KOR) McCOLL S. (CAN) Paris KIM J. (KOR) McCOLL S. (CAN) KAPLINA I. (RUS) HROZA L. (CZE) IAKOVLEVA O. (RUS) FISHHUBER K. (AUT) AVEZOU C. (FRA) TAUPORN T. (GER) FRANCE ERNST J. (AUT) ONDRA A. (CZE) TITOVA N. (RUS) TIMOFEEV D. (RUS) STÖHR A. (AUT) GELMANOV R. (RUS) KLINGER P. (SUI) LACHAT C. (SUI) 2011 EITER A. (AUT) PUIGBLANQUE R.J. (ESP) KRASAVINA M. (RUS) ZHONG Q. (CHN) STÖHR A. (AUT) SHARAFUTDINOV D. (RUS) Arco KIM J. (KOR) SCHUBERT J. (AUT) TSYGANOVA A. (RUS) KOKORIN S. (RUS) DIGIULIAN S. (USA) ONDRA A. (CZE) RÖCK M. (AUT) ONDRA A. (CZE) KUZNETSOVA T. (KAZ) BOLDYREV D. (UKR) WURM J. (GER) GELMANOV R. (RUS) 2009 ERNST J. (AUT) USOBIAGA P. (ESP) HE C. (CHN) ZHONG Q. (CHN) ABRAMCHUK Y. (RUS) RUBTSOV A. (RUS) Qinghai KIM J. (KOR) ONDRA A. (CZE) HE C. (CHN) NIGMATULIN A. (KAZ) SHALAGINA O. (UKR) GELMANOV R. (RUS) CHINA VIDMAR M. (SLO) LAMA D. (AUT) LI C. (CHN) NOVIKOV I. (RUS) STÖHR A. (AUT) BARRANS D. (GBR) EITER A. (AUT) PUIGBLANQUE R.J. (ESP) RUYGA T. (UKR) ZHONG Q. (CHN) STOHR A. (AUT) SHARAFUTDINOV D. (RUS) 2007 SARKANY M. (BEL) USOBIAGA P. (ESP) ROPEK E. (POL) ESCOBAR M. (VEN) NOGUCHI A. (JPN) STRANIK M. (CZE) Aviles VIDMAR M. (SLO) MRAZEK T. (CZE) YURINA V. (RUS) SINITSYN S. (RUS) BIBIK O. (RUS) LACHAT C. (SUI) LACHAT C. (SUI) VERHOEVEN J. (NED) 2005 EITER A. (AUT) MRAZEK T. (CZE) RYEPKO O. (UKR) VAYTSEKHOVSKY (RUS) SHALAGINA O. (UKR) RAKHMETOV S. (RUS) Munich HARRINGTON E. (USA) USOBIAGA P. (ESP) YURINA V. (RUS) STENKOVYY M. (UKR) ABRAMCHUK Y. (RUS) FISCHHUBER K. (AUT) NOGUCHI A. (JPN) CHABOT A. (FRA) ROPEK E. (POL) SINITSYN S. (RUS) KOTASOVA V. (CZE) POUVREAU J. (FRA) 2003 SARKANY M. (BEL) MRAZEK T. (CZE) RYEPKO O. (UKR) STENKOVYY M. (UKR) LEVET S. (FRA) CORE C. (ITA) Chamonix POUGET E. (FRA) USOBIAGA P. (ESP) RUYGA T. (UKR) OLESKY T. (POL) PERLOVA N. (UKR) MEYER J. (FRA) FRANCE LEVET S. (FRA) CAUDE D. (FRA) YURINA V. (RUS) PESHEKHONOV A. (RUS) ROGEAUX F. (FRA) OLESKY T. (POL) 2001 CUFAR M. (SLO) POUVREAU G. (FRA) RYEPKO O. (UKR) STENKOVYY M. (UKR) MOTTEAU M. (FRA) CALIBANI M. (ITA) Winterthur SARKANY M. (BEL) MRAZEK T. (CZE) PIRANTINSKAYA (RUS) ZAKHAROV V. (UKR) LEVET S. (FRA) TUSCAN F. (FRA) SWISS MINORET C. (FRA) PETIT F. (FRA) SUTKINA S. (RUS) OLESKY T. (POL) PERLOVA N. (UKR) CORE C. (ITA) 1999 SANSOZ L. (FRA) LAGNI B. (ITA) ZAKHAROVA O. (UKR) ZAKHAROV V. (UKR) Birnimgham SARKANY M. (BEL) HIRAYAMA Y. (JPN) RYEPKO O. (UKR) NETSVETAEV V. (RUS) ENGLAND OVTCHINIKOVA (USA) PETRENKO M. (UKR) NOVIKOVA N. (RUS) GADEEV A. (RUS) 1997 SANSOZ L. (FRA) PETIT F. (FRA) RUYGA T. (RUS) ANDRADA D. (ESP) Paris SARKANY M. (BEL) SHARMA C. (USA) ZAYTSEVA I. (RUS) KRYVOSHEYTSEV (UKR) FRANCE UHDEN M. (GER) LEGRAND F. (FRA) BEIBIK O. (RUS) BYTCHKOV D. (RUS) 1995 ERBESFIELD R. (USA) LEGRAND F. (FRA) RICHER N. (FRA) VENDENMEER A. (UKR) Genêve GUYON L. (FRA) PETIT A. (FRA) AVEZOU C. (FRA) BENIAN M. (CZE) SWISS SANSOZ L. (FRA) PISZCZEK R. (POL) NETSVETAEV V. (RUS) 1993 GOOD S. (SUI) LEGRAND F. (FRA) BEIBIK O. (RUS) VENDENMEER A. (UKR) ERBESFIELD R. (USA) GLOWACZ S. (GER) DORSIMOND I. (BEL) BENIAN M. (CZE) PATISSIER I. (FRA) HIRAYAMA Y. (JPN) PISZCZEK R. (POL) NETSVETAEV V. (RUS) 1991 GOOD S. (SUI) LEGRAND F. ( FRA) DORSIMOND I. (BEL) FLORINE H. (USA) Frankfurt PATISSIER I. (FRA) HIRAYAMA Y. (JPN) BRARD A. (FRA) GODOFFE J. (FRA) GERMANY ERBESFIELD R. (USA) KOSTERMEYER G. (GER) CHERESNEVA V. (RUS) RAKHMETOV K. (KAZ)

worldclimbing2016.com September 14th-18th 2016 World Championships

& paraclimbing

20 The french team

PARACLIMBING

Nolwenn ARC Mathilde BECERRA LEAD Julia CHANOURDIE Hélène JANICOT Salomé ROMAIN Romain DESGRANGES Thomas JOANNES Gautier SUPPER

Maëlys AGRAPART Fanny GIBERT Clémentine KAISER Mélissa LE NEVÉ BOULDERING Marine THÉVENET Jérémy BONDER Alban LEVIER Mickaël MAWEM Jules NICOULEAU

Lucie JARRIGE - AL2 Oriane MORENO - RP3 Mathieu BARBE - B2 Mathieu BESNARD - RP3 Julien GASC - AL2 Serge LAURENCIN - RP2 Nicolas MOINEAU - B1 Romain PAGNOUX - RP3

Victoire ANDRIER COMBINED Elma FLEURET Anouck JAUBERT

SPEED Aurélia SARISSON

Bassa MAWEM Guillaume MORO Quentin NAMBOT

Charlotte DURIF Manu CORNU worldclimbing2016.com 21 September 14th-18th 2016 World Championships

& paraclimbing

22 Ticketing

NEW IN 2016! The qualifications phases and the beginning of the final phases are open to the public

wednesday, sept. 14th; thursday, sept. 15th & friday, sept. 16th

SINGLE DAY Wednesday 14th Thursday 15th Friday 16th INDIVIDUAL PRICE* 13 € 13 € 20 € GROUP* +5 5 € 5 € 10 €

saturday, sept. 17th & sunday, sept. 18th

SINGLE DAY Gold Silver 2 DAYS Gold Silver INDIVIDUAL PRICE* 60 € 40 € INDIVIDUAL PRICE* 96 € 64 €

GROUP* +20 38 € 25 € GROUP* +20 68 € 46 € GROUP* +40 33 € 20 € GROUP* +40 56 € 39 €

* Within the limit of available seats. All spectators must be in possession of a ticket, including children regardless of their age. Chairs sitting numbered.

Information & reservation: www.worldclimbing2016.com

Or reservation AccorHotelsArena.com 0892 390 490 – 0,34€/min

worldclimbing2016.com September 14th-18th 2016 World Championships

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Practical information 23

AccorHotels Arena 8, boulevard de Bercy 75012 Paris

METRO ACCESS "Bercy" Station Line 14 : Saint-Lazare / Olympiades Line 6 : Nation / Charles de Gaulle - Étoile

BUS ACCESS "Gare de Bercy" stop Line 24 : Gare Saint-Lazare / Line 87 : / Porte de Reuilly

TRAIN AccorHotels Arena is less than 500m from three mainline stations: Paris , Paris-Austerlitz, and Paris-Bercy.  "Gare de Lyon" station RER A , RER D  "Gare d’Austerlitz" station RER C

GARE de LON

Q line 1 14 uai de la Rapée ont P RER A B A venue Daumesnil Jardin d’Austerlitz des plantes

Promenade Plantée

ont Charles Q BERC P de Gaulle uai de Bercy Quai d’Austerlitz line 6 14 GARE d’AUSTERLIT line 5 10 RER C Bd de Bercy UGOMMIER ont de P Bercy line 6

Q UAI de la GARE uai François Mauriac Parc line 6 de Bercy

oulevard de l’Hôpital B COUR St EMILION Boulevard Vincent Auriol line 14 ont de P Tolbiac

CAR • From the centre of Paris / take the right bank • From thes outh-east and south-west Paris / take expressway that runs in front of the AccorHotels the Périphérique (Paris ring-road) and come off at Arena. the Bercy exit, 1200m from the AccorHotels Arena. th th • From the 12 & 13 arrondissement / take the But please remember that traffic will be difficult on Boulevard de Bercy. competition days, so plan ahead.

worldclimbing2016.com September 14th-18th 2016 World Championships

& paraclimbing

24 La FFME

ounded in 1945, the French Federa- Ftion mountaineering and climbing pro- motes and develops six sports in France, including Climbing.

Chaired by Pierre You since 2005, the FFME is a member of the French Olym- pic Committee, the Inter-national Fede- ration of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and the International Ski Mountaineering Fede- ration (ISMF).

The FFME organizes and takes part in many national and international compe- titions for all its sporting activities.

worldclimbing2016.com September 14th-18th 2016 World Championships

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Media & contacts 25

PHOTOS https://www.flickr.com/photos/ifsclimbing/albums

VIDÉOS ftp://ftp.ifsc-climbing.org/ User: media Pass: climbing2016 MEDIA ACCREDITATION Online registration for media accreditations : http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/media-centre/media-accreditation FFME 8/10 quai de la Marne – 75019 Paris [email protected][email protected] 01 40 18 75 50T PRESS RELATION 15LOVE 160 boulevard de la République – 92210 Saint Cloud Olivia TEBOUL [email protected] 01 80 88 52 88 06 80 10 62 62 SOCIAL MEDIA You can keep up with the latest news, photos, videos and behind the scenes footage via the event’s social media channels. Use the hashtag #IFSCwch. For more information: www.worldclimbing2016.com FOLLOW US @IFSCwch2016 @ffme1 instagram.com/world_climbing_2016 youtube.com/webtvffme

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