Fall 2017 Trend Tracker

PLUS page 78 I’ll DrinkI’ll to That! The bar works the kitchen, the kitchen, bar works The page 64 Time to Grow MONEY & SENSE MONEY mogul? to be a restaurant Want page 46 FOOD PEOPLE FOOD Second Chances The benefits of ex-offenders, benefits of ex-offenders, The

Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success Business of Food—Inspiring Sharing the Love

FOOD page 22 The dish on Filipino, dish on Filipino, The

Original Fusion

BISCU ITS! BISCU IT WITH RUN AND CUT HOLEY HOLEY

HOLEY BISCUITS FALL 2017 TREND TRACKER

Stay ahead of the curve, p. 38 Fall 2017 FoodFanatics.com MONEY & SENSE CASH OUT Why operators are sticking to plastic and going cashless. 61 FOOD GO FORTH AND MULTIPLY But read this before starting ROLL WITH IT your restaurant empire. Biscuits have room to rise. 64 7 SQUASH IT IN EVERY ISSUE Diners are ready to gorge TREND TRACKER on gourds. What’s hot and what’s not. 16 38 NEXT STOP PHILIPPINES FEED THE STAFF An amalgam of cuisines Five questions to aid you in steps forward. reducing labor costs. 22 50 FOOD FOR THOUGHT IHELP Cater to tomorrow’s diners Understand the metrics from by studying today’s college your social channels. dining commons. 68 32 PR MACHINE How to engage with social FOOD PEOPLE media influencers. LONG LIVE THE NIGHT WALKERS 70 Don’t put your kitchen to sleep when late-night diners are BEYOND THE PLATE awake and hungry. Advice from the experts. 41 72 TALK SHOP DEAR FOOD FANATICS Why hire ex-offenders? Are robots about to takeover 46 your operations? 76 ROAD TRIP! Check out Knock Detroit all you want. The I’LL DRINK TO THAT! FOODFANATICS.COM Motor City is rocking it out. Culinary cocktails bring the for more menu 54 kitchen to the bar. inspiration and 78 business solutions. FEEDING CHANGE Community fuels Chef BY THE NUMBERS Marcus Samuelsson. Attack the snacks.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL STRABBING PAUL BY PHOTOGRAPHY 56 80

Progressive Casualty Ins. Co. & affiliates. Business insurance may be placed through Progressive Specialty Insurance Agency, Inc. with select insurers, which are not affiliated with Progressive, are solely responsible for servicing and claims, and pay the agency commission for policies sold. Prices, coverages, privacy policies and commission rates vary among these insurers. FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 1 Go online for exclusives. Join the FoodFanatics.com US FOODS ADVISORY BOARD President and Chief Executive Officer conversation on social. Pietro Satriano

Senior Vice President of Marketing Marshall Warkentin

Vice President of Product Development and Innovation Stacie Sopinka

Vice President of Corporate Marketing Diane Hund Program Sales and Sponsorships Jennifer Paulson

CHEF AND RESTAURANT OPERATION CONSULTANT CONTRIBUTORS Steve M. Affixio, Tampa, FL Alexander Boggs, Memphis Mike Dulek, Streator, IL Gene R. Gransaull, Port Orange, FL Steven Grostick, Detroit Kevin Hatfield, Omaha and Iowa Pasul LaRue, Seabrook, NH Gary Mueller, Centennial, CO Jaci Shelby, Kansas City, KS Joey Rowland, Fort Mill, SC Jeffrey Schlissel, Boca Raton, FL SON OF A BISCUIT Randall Smith, Detroit The offspring of the biscuit is making waves. Check out these biscuit PUBLISHING PARTNER Feedback We welcome your comments. sandwiches for inspiration. There’s Contact Food Fanatics at: even a recipe for consideration. Publisher [email protected] Elizabeth Ervin Contact Bite Me Media at: Chief Content Officer Bite Me Media Laura Yee 4407 N. Beacon St., Suite 3S STEPPED UP SQUASH Chicago, IL 60640 or email Gourds are in the spotlight, ready to Chief Creative Officer [email protected] Joline Rivera satisfy meat and meatless eaters with Unless otherwise specified, all correspondence sent to Food Contributing Editors their girth and meatiness. They’ll also Fanatics is assumed for publication Carly Fisher and becomes the copyright Peter Gianopulos impress penny-pinchers with their property of US Foods. high yield, lower cost profile. Here’s Contributing Writers Advertising Information some inspiration with recipes. Lisa Arnett For rates and a media kit, contact Kate Bernot Jennifer Paulson at Jodi Helmer 847-268-5176 or email Megan Rowe [email protected]. Amy Sherman Mike Sula Food Fanatics is the go-to source DESTINATION PHILIPPINES for the foodservice industry and Get a crash course on classic Photographers anyone truly passionate about Frank Lawlor food, food people and improving Filipino dishes with our quick Paul Strabbing the bottom line. Issued quarterly and hand-delivered to readers, the reference guide. Prop Stylist magazine is a US Foods publication Johanna Lowe produced by BiteMe Media.

For more information on the Food Fanatics program, visit DEEP SIX THE BAD RAP www.FoodFanatics.com Need more convincing that All rights reserved. © ex-offenders can be an asset to About US Foods your restaurant? Tap into these US Foods is one of America’s great food companies and a leading foodservice distributor, partnering with approximately 250,000 chefs, additional insights. restaurateurs and foodservice operators to help their businesses succeed. With nearly 25,000 employees and more than 60 locations, US Foods provides its customers with a broad and innovative food offering and a comprehensive suite of e-commerce, technology and business solutions. US Foods is headquartered in Rosemont, Ill. and generates approximately RAISE THE SNACK BAR $23 billion in annual revenue. Discover more at www.usfoods.com. Just about everyone is into snacks so why are your offerings lame or non-existent? Time to nab a piece of the snack pie.

9300 W. Higgins Rd.

Suite 500 LAWLOR FRANK BY PHOTOGRAPHY COVER FRONT Rosemont, IL 60018 (847) 720-8000 www.usfoods.com 2 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 Get inspired this season Autumn is a perfect time to pause, evaluate and switch gears, if necessary, to ensure that 2017 meets or exceeds our expectations.

We can make a fresh start through improving current methods and undertaking new ones. That’s where the latest issue of Food Fanatics® comes in, with menu inspiration and practical ways to improve operations – all with the goal of finishing the year profitably. EQUIPPED First, get ready for the future by reading up on the culinary preferences of today’s college students. Gen Z is the newest generation of diners, and understanding what they want can set you up for long-term success. Equally as important as understanding dining preferences is addressing big issues, such as labor costs, now. Our article on controlling labor costs encourages you to ask five questions on what TO SUCCEED you could do differently to see big changes.

Next, head to the menu board and get inspired by different takes on Outshine the competition by using top-quality equipment and supplies. a comfort food classic to see how the humble biscuit can be a great We deliver thousands of outstanding products nationwide, and ordering vehicle for complex and memorable flavors. If you’re looking to tap into something unique for your diners, don’t miss our article on Filipino with us is the easiest part of your day. From the front to the back of the food. The popularity of this Southeast Asian cuisine is on the rise, and house, your success is our priority. here we provide a primer on the key ingredients and the chefs moving it into the mainstream. For more information, contact your US Foods Representative or Save Time. Order Online! usfoods.com This fall also represents a new start for US Foods® as we introduce our latest Scoop™ product lineup featuring new items inspired by acclaimed Chef Marcus Samuelsson. You can read about his diverse background which has inspired the multicultural cuisine he is known for today. We know these new products will inspire all of you to put your own spin on his signature style.

Enjoy the issue and share your thoughts @foodfanatics.

Pietro Satriano President and Chief Executive Officer US Foods

Chicken in a Biscuit Wa e Sandwich Corned Beef Pretzel Biscuit Sandwich

THINKING SANDWICHES? THINK BISCUITS! Pillsbury® Frozen Biscuit Dough delivers ﬂ avorful, ﬂ uffy biscuits. Did you know that the very same dough can be used to make sandwiches – perfect menu items for both breakfast and lunch? For these recipes and more, visit generalmillscf.com © General Mills

Turkey Avocado Club Biscuit Sandwich Biscuit Burger Wellington

BISCUITS HAVE ROOM TO RISE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANK LAWLOR FRANK BY PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAURA YEE FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 7 MAKE YOUR DESSERT SPARKLE ❱ SOME FOODS RILE UP CHEFS AND DINERS MORE THAN OTHERS, ENSURING A FOOD FIGHT OF EPIC PROPORTIONS. Take the biscuit. Use butter, shortening or lard? Go with buttermilk or milk? Eggs or no eggs? Does the type of flour matter? Keep it simple or go over- the-top with improvisation? “In the South, everyone thinks their biscuits are the best,” says Brian Wiles of Durham, North Carolina-based Rise biscuits. “Sometimes it comes down to personal preference, but it’s always because you’re baking with pride.” Chef Chris Uhrich Southerners lay claim to the biscuit, but it has folds and forms stretched far beyond, increasing its presence on the dough for his creme brulee menus nationwide by 99 percent over the last four doughnut-biscuits years, according to research firm Datassential. Chef- (also pictured driven restaurants like Giant in Chicago can fetch on the cover) at Mucci’s Italian for $7 for two small freshly baked biscuits with jalapeno the ultimate in butter, while 61 Local in Brooklyn, New York, offers flakiness. corn biscuits with hot honey and butter for $6. ® Biscuits are also proving they can headline a Since 1894, Ambrosia has delivered “Food of the Gods” – delicious chocolate concept. Last year, casual dining chain Cracker of the finest quality. Today, the portfolio stands tall as “The Chocolate Resource®”, Barrel joined the biscuit arena’s fast casual fray, delivering consistently high quality chips, chunks and coatings. a trend that’s been led by independents. Its first Holler & Dash in Homewood, Alabama, serves signature biscuit sandwiches, such as fried pork For more information about our Ambrosia products, contact your Cargill Foodservice tenderloin with blackberry butter and fried onion representative or visit us online at www.cargill.com/food-beverage/na/ambrosia. straws and country ham with red-eye aioli, kale and apple butter. For the most part, biscuits get a nod for low food costs, usually around 15 percent. The price of improvisation depends on how far you want to take this baked good. Just ask the following operators. PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANK LAWLOR FRANK BY PHOTOGRAPHY

8 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 Creme Brulee The Crossover Doughscuit Chef-owner Chris Uhrich What is it: The doughscuit, a hybrid created by Mucci’s Italian, St. Paul, Chris Uhrich, chef-owner of Mucci’s Italian in Minnesota St. Paul, Minnesota. Part biscuit, part doughnut, the doughscuit’s distinguishing characteristic 1 cup water is a punched-out hole perched on its top. Flavors 1 cup whole milk emulate classic desserts, like this spin on ½ cup sugar creme brulee. Vanilla pastry cream tops the $4 2 teaspoons instant yeast doughscuit after the surface and hole are dipped 500 grams flour in lightly caramelized sugar that turns into a 500 grams bread flour hard coating. 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1½ pounds unsalted butter Inspiration: Uhrich’s love and fascination with 500 grams sugar coating, biscuits led to this ideal doughnut-biscuit union. recipe follows Like legions of people across America, Uhrich 2 cups pastry cream, was intrigued by New York City Chef Dominique your recipe Ansel’s cronut. “The goal was to achieve a tender raised doughnut that has flaky layers, which was Combine liquids, sugar and very difficult,” Uhrich says. yeast; set aside. In a separate bowl, combine flours and salt. Obsession factor: “We had a lot of screw-ups,” Dice the butter and cut it into Uhrich says, but getting it wrong only drove him the flour with your fingertips to get it right, batch after batch. Uhrich knew he until small, flat pieces of butter nailed it when its popularity skyrocketed. remain. Add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients and stir to Impact: Mucci’s launched a side concept just combine. featuring the doughscuits served only on You work hard for your reputation. Saturday mornings. The twist on creme brulee Transfer to a lightly floured has become a signature and fan favorite. surface and roll into a rectangle. Fold the rectangle So should your oil. into thirds and then roll flat again. Repeat process two more times. Wrap and You put everything you’ve got into your menu and your business. refrigerate dough overnight. Choose an oil with a reputation for doing the same. Roll dough to about ½-inch thickness and cut doughscuits. Cover with a tea towel and g ervin let rise at room temperature, 1 per s hour. Fry in preheated 350 F neutral oil, about 1 minute each side. Drain on a wire rack.

Dip surface of doughscuit in hot sugar, place on wire rack and top with pastry cream. Dip doughscuit hole in hot sugar and place on top of pastry cream. Makes 1 dozen.

To make sugar coating, heat 500 grams sugar with a Increase profitability and operational efficiency with our fryer management tools, call877-376-6250 . tablespoon of water until lightly

caramelized, about 310 F. LAWLOR FRANK BY PHOTOGRAPHY *Crisco Professional ® shortening and oils meet U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) requirements for labeling as zero grams trans fat per serving. See Nutritional Facts panel for total fat and saturated fat content. Kosher Certification Crisco Professional ® shortening and oils are Kosher Certified by the Union of Orthodox Jewish Congregations of America (OU). Crisco Professional ® and the Crisco Professional ® logo are trademarks of The J.M. Smucker Company, used under license. ©2017 Cargill, Incorporated. All Rights Reserved. 10 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 MAKING DOUGH WITH BISCUITS ❱ The MacGregor biscuit made with bacon, cheese and caramelized onions Black Pepper and HONEST BISCUITS, SEATTLE Bacon Biscuits Chef-owner Carrie Morey ❱ Sour cream biscuit with pimento cheese Callie’s Hot Little Biscuits, spread and spiced buckwheat honey Charleston and Atlanta MILKTOOTH, INDIANAPOLIS 2 cups self-rising flour ❱ Housemade corn biscuits with hot (White Lily preferred) plus honey and local butter more for dusting 61 LOCAL, BROOKLYN, NEW YORK 1½ tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper plus ❱ Everything bagel drop biscuits with extra for sprinkling sawmill gravy and fried eggs 4 tablespoons unsalted REX 1516, PHILADELPHIA butter, cubed ¼ cup cream cheese ❱ Maple bacon sweet potato biscuit ¾ cup whole buttermilk SHAKE SUGARY, NEW ORLEANS Crumbled bacon 1 tablespoon melted butter Kosher salt as needed

Combine flour with pepper Flavor Drivers and work in butter and cream cheese until mixture What is it: Small, peppery biscuits with bacon resembles cottage cheese. featured at Callie’s Hot Little Biscuits, a fast-casual Make a well in the center. concept in Atlanta and Charleston, South Carolina, Pour in buttermilk and, using owned by Carey Morey. They’re a part of a menu your hands, mix the flour that includes several other types of biscuits such as into the buttermilk. buttermilk; shortcake; and cheese-and-chive, which sell for $3 or $4 per pair. Sprinkle flour on top of the dough, which will be wet. Inspiration: Morey’s mother, Callie, “made the Transfer to a surface dusted most wonderful biscuits.” They came together fast with flour and dust top of and hot out of the oven at breakfast, lunch or dinner. dough with flour. Sprinkle in bacon and roll out the Obsession factor: The ingredients all depend dough into an oval shape on what you intend to serve the biscuit with. The with a ½-inch thickness. Cut peppery one have a bit of zip, but the buttermilk into rounds. ones are wonderful with jam, pimento cheese or our crispy fried chicken. Never over handle the dough or Brush with the melted use too much fat or too little fat. The consistency of butter. Combine equal the ingredients ensures the same results every time. amounts of salt and pepper to total 1 tablespoon Impact: Morey’s love for biscuits turned one and sprinkle on biscuits. location into three, led to an online biscuit business Place biscuits in preheated and a cookbook, “Callie’s Biscuits and Southern 500 F oven and immediately Traditions” (Atria Books, 2013). She also mentors reduce to 450 F. Bake 16 aspiring artisanal producers through her consulting to 18 minutes, until light business and lectures at the College of Charleston brown. Makes about 10 School of Business. 2-inch biscuits. PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL STRABBING PAUL BY PHOTOGRAPHY

12 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 13 Get the recipe for Rise’s roasted butternut squash, pepper relish, goat cheese and arugula biscuit at FOODFANATICS.COM.

Suited For A Sandwich The Rise Buttermilk Biscuit What is it? A Southern-style biscuit sturdy enough Chef Brian Wiles to be a sandwich for Rise, a concept Chef-owner Rise Biscuits, Durham, North Carolina, Tom Ferguson launched five years ago in Durham and 11 other locations after a successful run with his Only Burger food truck. Rise started with complex biscuit flavors and 8 ounces cold unsalted butter, diced ingredients, but Ferguson found that the approach 24 ounces self-rising flour posed consistency issues as he began to open other 2 eggs locations. The solution: create one badass biscuit for 1 cup cold buttermilk the sandwiches. Melted butter for brushing

Inspiration: Recon at Pine State Biscuits, a casual Cut butter into the flour mixture until restaurant, in Portland, Oregon. Ferguson, however, pea-sized morsels form. Make a well wanted a fast casual he could stamp out but maintain a and add eggs and lightly beat them. chef-driven approach, so he hired Brian Wiles, whose Add buttermilk and mix ingredients credentials include working the line with renowned with a wooden spoon. Chef Michel Richard at Citronelle in Washington, D.C. Transfer dough to a flour-dusted Obsession factor: Biscuit nirvana can be reached surface and gently knead and in many ways, but nothing beats mixing ingredients flatten dough using your hands, and rolling out the dough by hand, Wiles says. Cold folding it evenly. Repeat this step ingredients are essential, as well as self-rising locally two more times. milled flour, eggs and buttermilk. A wetter dough, he says, leads to a biscuit that doesn’t crumble when Roll dough to ¾-inch-thickness and paired with sandwich fillings. cut with biscuit cutter. Bake on a sheet tray in a preheated 400 F oven for 12 Working with cold ingredients Impact: Eleven locations and many more to come. “It minutes, turning once. Brush biscuits in cool surroundings is essential for the ideal biscuits takes a solid recipe, solid training and holding people with melted butter and serve. Makes at Rise. accountable,” Wiles says. n about 1 dozen biscuits. PHOTOGRAPHY BY FELICIA TRUJILLO ON BOTH PAGES.

14 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 15 ❱ THE CHANGING TINT OF LEAVES MEANS FALL HAS ARRIVED, Build on Beauty Leveraging the unique sweet-savory flavors and WHEN DINERS WANT HEARTY DISHES BURSTING WITH COLORS organic shape of squashes can lead to signature that mimic the cornucopia of the season. To satisfy pairings and stunning plating options. their hunger without killing your budget on proteins, Mike Wiley of Hugo’s in Portland, Maine, builds look no further than the rainbow of local squash. main dishes with vegetables like squash and uses “Squash psychologically triggers thoughts of proteins as accent flavors. His delicate squash brulee fall, winter, Thanksgiving, family and happiness,” with duck liver mousse, for example, is a play on pate says Chef Vishwatej Nath of the Urban Farmer in en croute, using the outer layer of squash instead of Cleveland. “In terms of flavor, they can be delicate, puff pastry. nutty or sweet, and at times, a blank canvas.” SWEET AS Wiley leverages the pipe-like shape of delicata Not only do squashes offer solid yields and to carve a cylindrical-shaped tube of flesh that a long shelf life, they’re inherently versatile. SQUASH is packed tight with a Calvados-spiked duck Varying flavors and textures lend to the creation Squash-based mousse, wrapped in plastic and then sous vided. of complex dishes that naturally attract more desserts and drinks Sprinkling turbinado sugar and flambeing than vegetarians. Over the last four years, squash are aiming to be the transforms the dish into a unique take on classic has increased by 31 percent, now appearing on 22 next big thing. sweet-salty foie gras flavors, finished with pickled percent of all U.S. menus, according to foodservice apple and crispy quinoa. research firm Datassential. CUSTARD: At Vicia “The great thing about squash is that it’s in St. Louis, the forgiving,” he says, “You can spice the bejesus out Hail to the Yield rind of honey nut of it or go for more subtle results.” At Local Provisions in Asheville, North Carolina, squash is used With its dry fleshy texture, intense color and Chef Justin Burdett offers a super-sized squash as the “cup” for pumpkin-like flavor, kabocha is an increasingly feast for two, complete with a roasted tromboncino a caramelized popular Japanese varietal making the rounds on squash “steak” and tempura squash shoots topped custard topped menus across the country. At Quality Eats in New with a thin layer of shaved squash. with cinnamon York, Chef Craig Koketsu uses it as a substitute for The unique growing season of tromboncino—a and nutmeg. chickpeas in his hummus. Along with producing zucchini-shaped squash with an almost nutty bold and creamy purees, this squash is ideal for flavor—allows Burdett to make the most of the MILKSHAKE: absorbing surrounding flavors, like tahini and squash. It’s a fall variety that can be harvested in Seasonal roasted garlic, before being topped with a bright purple the summer. Even late in the year, Burdett can pick squash, such as mop of beet tabbouleh. sprouts, shave some of the raw flesh and then roast acorn, buttercup “People tend to feel satisfied after they eat it, so its meaty core. Because tromboncinos don’t retain a and kabocha, it appeals not only to vegetarians but diners who lot of water, they hold on to their density in ways that headline a aren’t interested in eating a lot of animal proteins,” can mimic meat. milkshake with Koketsu says. “There’s not a lot of waste with squash,” he says. maple, rum and “You get a good yield from them.” cloves at Gristmill Tell a Story Even better, squash can cost one-tenth the in Brooklyn, Slipping lesser-known varieties or sourcing stories amount of some upper echelon proteins, says Scott New York. can spark a dialogue between guests and servers to Blackerby, chef at Maritana Grille in St. Pete Beach, help generate sales. Florida. He likes working with hubbard squash, a AGUA FRESCA: sweet yellow-fleshed variety, to make his popular Beverages at vegetarian terrine. Agave Mexican Maximizing the yield, he says, is all about layering Restaurant in DINERS ARE the terrine correctly, using a little gelatin to bind Healdsburg, the leeks to the squash. He cuts 1¼-inch slices to California, include LAST SEEN READY TO GORGE showcase color, then adds goat cheese before plating agua de chilacayota Kabocha, delicata or buttercup are the star with quinoa and romesco sauce. with cooked attractions in a roasted squash salad with red quinoa, “Our servers sometimes describe it as a thinly chilacayote squash, spiced pecans, stracciatella, arugula and warm spice ON GOURDS sliced lasagna made with fresh vegetables,” he says. water, Mexican vinaigrette, $13, at Cindy’s, the rooftop restaurant at BY PETER GIANOPULOS “More hesitant diners tend to respond to dishes that sugar, lime and the Chicago Athletic Association Hotel in Chicago. PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL STRABBING they already know.” cinnamon sticks.

16 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 17 Pumpkin Pork Stew Heat 2 tablespoons oil in cooking water, bring to a boil Chef-owner Desmond Tan a large pot and saute 2 and gently simmer until meat Burma Superstar, tablespoons each of ginger is tender, about 1½ hours. San Francisco and garlic, about 1 minute. Add ½ teaspoon turmeric Add curry powder, fish 2 tablespoons canola oil, and remove from heat. Slice sauce, pumpkin and ½ 1 plus ⁄3 cup, divided use squash into wedges about cup pumpkin water. Gently 5 tablespoons ginger, 1-inch thick, nestle in the simmer, about 10 minutes. minced, divided use pot and add enough water Serve with bowls of mint, 4 tablespoons minced to cover. Add ½ teaspoon cilantro and lime wedges garlic, divided use salt and simmer 10 to 15 on the side. Makes 4 to 1½ teaspoons turmeric, minutes until tender. Cool in 6 servings. divided use liquid; reserve. 1 pound kabocha squash, Adapted from “Burma Superstar,” by Desmond peeled and seeded Portion the pork into ½-to Tan and Kate Leahy, 2½ teaspoons salt, 1-inch pieces. Toss with (Ten Speed Press, 2017). divided use remaining 2 teaspoons salt 2 pounds boneless and remaining 1 teaspoon pork shoulder turmeric. Marinate at room 3 cups onions, finely diced temperature for an hour. 2 to 3 Thai chilies, thinly 1 sliced (optional) Heat remaining ⁄3 cup 1 teaspoon curry powder oil in a 6-quart pot. Add 1½ tablespoons fish sauce onions, cook and stir for 4 (optional) minutes, and add remaining ½ cup mint leaves 3 tablespoons minced for garnish ginger and 2 tablespoons ½ cup cilantro sprigs minced garlic and cook until for garnish glossy. Add pork and chilies 1 lime or lemon, cut if desired and stir to coat. into wedges Ladle in 3 cups of pumpkin

18 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 Spaghetti Squash with Smoked Labneh ™ & Shishito peppers A Brilliant Choice Executive Chef Charlie Foster Woods Hill Table, Concord, Massachusetts for chefs

3 pounds butternut squash, peeled and juiced since 1886. ½ pint organic ketchup ¼ pint organic molasses ¼ pint Dijon mustard Diamond Crystal® Kosher Salt ¼ pint raw apple cider vinegar is pure salt with no additives. 1 tablespoon organic garlic powder 1 tablespoon organic With unique, hollow salt onion powder crystals that are fragile enough 1 tablespoon paprika to crush between fingers 1 tablespoon smoked Spanish paprika and perfect for controlled 1 tablespoon coriander seasoning, Diamond Crystal® 1 tablespoon black peppercorns Kosher Salt is truly A Brilliant 2 star anise pods Choice™. 1 tablespoon fennel seed 1 teaspoon chili flakes 1 teaspoon allspice 2 bay leaves 4 cloves Kosher salt, as needed 2 large spaghetti squashes, roasted 1 pint smoked labneh Toasted pumpkin seeds, as needed Shishito peppers, as needed Chef Bill Wallender’s love affair withtetsukabuto , new spin on Middle Eastern bruschetta. a fleshy, green-skinned Japanese gourd that’s Starchy butternut squash is good for a viscous Combine all ingredients slightly sweeter than butternut squash, happened bisque-like puree that acts as the foundation for except spaghetti squashes, by accident. an autumn-flavored barbecue sauce teeming with labneh, pumpkin seeds and “It just kind of fell into our lap,” he says. “One of paprika, chili and bay leaves at Woods Hills Table shishito peppers, and cook our farmers was out of delicata and butternut and in Concord, Massachusetts. Although the sauce can on medium-low heat until introduced us to it. We’ve been using it ever since.” be used to spice up proteins, Chef Charlie Foster juice naturally thickens. The name, which translates to “steel helmet,” says it works particularly well with thick strands Strain, adjust seasonings gets people’s attention at his Portland, Oregon, of spaghetti squash, which he bakes until al dente. with salt. Toss with restaurant, Quaintrelle, allowing the waitstaff to An extra dollop of smoked labneh cuts through the spaghetti squash. discuss the importance of supporting local farmers. sugar and spice, delivering a dish both exotic and Because tetsukabuto holds its shape well under familiar. To plate, spread smoked high, direct heat, Wallender puts them under the Diners love it for the flavor, but for Foster, it’s a way labneh on bottom of bowl, broiler, allowing the sugars to char over and create to support local farmers through the leanest months top with spaghetti squash ® deep roasted notes. After coating the squash with a of the year. and garnish with toasted dressing made from Aleppo peppers and agrodolce “Once you tell that story, more people will be pumpkin seeds and thinly zinfandel vinegar, he combines the mixture with inclined to try something seasonal, like squashes,” sliced shishito peppers. goat cheese and sets atop sourdough or levain for a he says. n Makes 10 to 12 servings.

20 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 www.diamondcrystalsalt.com nex t stop PHILIPPINES

AN AMALGAM OF CUISINES STEPS UP

BY AMY SHERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL STRABBING

22 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 23 Squid ink pancit malabok from Jeepney in New York City includes shrimp, calamari and long beans topped with chicharones. ❱ Influenced by the individuality within their multicultural cuisine, Filipino-American chefs are moving their food into the spotlight by leveraging modern techniques and local ingredients. “Filipino cuisine is real fusion,” says Manila- raised Francis Ang, chef-owner of Pinoy Heritage in San Francisco. Drawing culinary inspiration from China, Malaysia, Spain and Mexico, this melting pot of a cuisine is gaining momentum—and it’s about time. Although Filipinos, according to the U.S. Census Bureau, are the second-largest Asian group in the United States behind only the Chinese, Filipino restaurants are far from ubiquitous. Making a splash across the country, Filipino flavors are gaining favor everywhere from pop-ups and street food spots to fast-casual and fine-casual concepts. And their influence is expected to grow.

Defining Authenticity Filipino cuisine has been slow to gain traction in the States, in part, because defining the cuisine is tricky. The Philippines make up more than 7,000 tropical islands, 2,000 of which are inhabited by 120 ethnic groups, eight major dialects, and a myriad (vinegar-braised pork, chicken or other protein), of regions, each with its own culinary variations. sinigang (soup soured with fruits, leaves and citrus) It’s a complex cuisine that differs with each family and kinilaw (a version of ceviche using souring member who cooks it. agents). Acid reigns, with ingredients like vinegar Amy Besa, chef-owner of Purple Yam in Manila and calamansi lime juice used in adobo. Heavily and New York City, categorizes Filipino cuisine in salted and fermented ingredients are also common, FILIPINO two ways: “Food that was always ours and food that including fish and shrimp paste,bagoong ; salted was borrowed and made our own.” duck egg, itlog na maalat; and fish sauce,patis . “Food that was always ours were dishes that Along with adding umami to proteins commonly CUISINE Filipinos came up with from what they saw in the available in the Philippines, these are pragmatic environment,” says Besa, co-author of “Memories of preserved foods for a tropical climate. Acid, though, Philippine Kitchens.” is the real powerhouse. IS REAL “Methods that are ours would be grilling (sugba), “In the Philippines, sourness is a major steaming and baking in makeshift ovens (low heat protagonist. It is up there, front and center, driving A deconstructed version below and high heat on top with hot coals piled high the profiles forward,” Besa says. “If you look at FUSION. of lumpia sariwa from Pinoy Heritage unites a over a cover). Two major sources of foreign food cuisines from other cultures, sourness plays a buckwheat pancake with influences were pork-oriented: Spain and China.” supporting character role, indispensable working in vegetables, mushroom She points specifically to three native Filipino the background to mitigate sweetness, saltiness or —Francis Ang, chef -owner of marmalade, dashi glaze, black garlic puree and a dishes that double as cooking methods: adobo too much oil, but never claiming top billing.” Pinoy Heritage garlic croquant.

24 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 25 2 1 THE WALK-IN Get to know these core Filipino ingredients.

1. COCONUT VINEGAR 7. ITLOG NA MAALAT 3 Varieties, such as tuba, (SALTED DUCK EGG) coconut sap (pictured), Chopped, it serves as a sugar cane and pinakurat condiment, usually for (spiced vinegar), are charred eggplant, onion featured in dishes like and tomato or with a kinilaw and adobo as well whole fried fish. It also 5 as marinades and pickles. complements vegetables.

2. SAMPALOC 8. GATA (COCONUT MILK) Also known as tamarind, Adds creaminess and this tart and tangy fruit tempers bolder flavors. is used primarily in Widely used in the Bicol sinigang, a sour-savory region for sweet and stew, and candies. It also savory dishes. is sold as a paste to add to marinades. 7 9. ACHUETE 4 3. PANCIT These annatto seeds are 6 used as a coloring agent A general term for in dishes like kare kare noodles derived from and empanadas. the Chinese word that means “convenient.” 10. SOY SAUCE Found in a variety of 4. BANANA KETCHUP dishes, soy adds umami Made of bananas, sugar, flavor much like the way vinegar and spices, this it does in Chinese or ingredient is found in Japanese food. Filipino sweet spaghetti and barbecue sauce. 11. FISH SAUCE The smell may make 5. BAGOONG your eyes water but the A funky-flavored umami flavor spectacularly adds bomb of fish or shrimp depth and complexity to paste, bagoong works as the cuisine. a condiment, a topping 9 11 for rice or in salad dressing. The product varies by region. 8 6. DRIED FISH Dried fish such as daing are used to flavor rice, sauces and other dishes. 10

26 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 27 Get the word on classic The New Guard version of ceviche with local steelhead, roe and Filipino dishes at Stateside interest in Filipino cuisine has been serrano chilies. FOODFANATICS.COM fueled largely by younger first- and second- Chef-owner Christina Quackenbush spent two generation chefs exploring traditional recipes by years building a following in New Orleans with pushing unexplored boundaries. pop-ups before opening her first brick-and-mortar, Multiple research trips to the Philippines have Milkfish, in 2014. The restaurant closed after a deepened Chef-owner Nicole Ponseca’s appreciation two-year run, but she maintained momentum and understanding of the cuisine. She sees a by returning to pop-ups. Her next project, Saint Calamansi Barbecue correlation with American soul food in dishes Malo, merges two heavily fused cuisines: Filipino Shrimp like fried chicken and stewed greens, which and Creole. Chef-owner she brings to her gastropub Jeepney and bistro “(Saint Malo in) New Orleans is the original Cristina Quackenbush Maharlika in New York. Filipino settlement in the U.S.,” she says. “I want to Saint Malo, New Orleans Knowing who you are and where you’re from represent the area here, how it can come together makes the food authentic, Ponseca says. “Filipino and be even more delicious.” 5 pounds large head/tail- food is a gold rush right now, but for those who want But winning over American diners isn’t the biggest on shrimp, peeled to make an impression or have something to say challenge. “The Filipinos are the toughest audience,” and deveined about it, should err against making it trendy. That Lamagna says. “You’re playing with fire because Salt, pepper and Cajun was never our goal.” you’re manipulating memories. The younger seasoning, to taste Techniques like sous vide—which would be generation is more open to it because they are used Oil as needed challenging in the Philippines, where refrigeration to it.” ½ cup unsalted butter is sometimes scarce—are being adapted stateside 2 tablespoons garlic, to maintain the integrity of ingredients. Subtler Future Filipino minced seasoning and flavors from other cuisines are also Fast-casual and fine casual concepts are taking 1 tablespoon ginger, evolving classic dishes. the lead. Tuazon recently opened Manila Bowl in minced Lumpia sariwa, a Chinese-inspired crepe filled San Francisco with a fast-casual format similar to 1 cup fresh calamansi juice with sauteed vegetables, takes on new life at Chipotle, serving chicken, brisket and milkfish atop 2 tablespoons soy sauce Jeepney, where Ponseca serves a modern seasonal rice or salad. 2 tablespoons Crystal version filled with red leaf lettuce, daikon, carrot, Food truck Senor Sisig built a cult following Hot Sauce cucumber, hearts of palm, pumpkin-seed puree, in San Francisco for its mashups of sisig-spiced 1 tablespoon black pepper brown sugar-tamari and crushed peanuts. At Pinoy pork, chicken and tofu served in burritos, tacos 10 cups jasmine rice, Heritage, Ang serves a deconstructed version with and nachos. Jollibee, a fast-food import from the cooked a buckwheat crepe stuffed with Okinawa sweet Philippines, has exploded onto the national dining potatoes, English peas, snow peas, broccolini, scene with 37 locations scattered throughout the Season shrimp with salt, mushroom marmalade, dashi glaze, black garlic Midwest, Southeast and California. pepper and Cajun seasoning. puree and garlic croquant. On the fine casual side, it’s hard to keep up with all Grill or saute until pink; the new openings. Bad Saint, a buzzy Washington, set aside. Getting the Word Out D.C., destination, nabbed a finalist spot for the 2017 Chef-owner Aris Tuazon of Ugly Kitchen in James Beard Awards, while Filipino-style barbecue Heat butter in medium New York says shows like “Fear Factor” and has landed in Brooklyn, New York, at a spot called saucepan until it starts to “Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown” have helped F.O.B. After a long run of pop-up events, Los Angeles turn brown. Add garlic and destigmatize, and even popularize, dishes such as favorite Lasa has landed a permanent home. ginger and cook for 2 min- isaw (fried pork intestines served with soy sauce Based on his own success of two bi-coastal utes. Add juice, soy sauce, and vinegar). Customers now flock to Tuazon’s Filipino concepts, Tuazon expects interest to hot sauce and black pepper. restaurant to try balut (cooked underdeveloped duck continue. “In the next three to five years, Filipino Turn heat on high until it embryo), which he referred to as his “ugly duckling” cuisine will be recognized like Chinese or Japanese boils. Reduce heat to medi- dish on his menu. or Vietnamese,” he says. n um and reduce sauce until Social media and the popularity of street food slightly thicker. Toss shrimp and pop-up concepts have exposed diners to bold, into sauce and cook until modern versions of classic dishes. At his Portland, Amy Sherman is a San Francisco-based writer, recipe coated. Serve over jasmine Oregon-based pop-up, Twisted Filipino, Chef-owner developer and author of several books. Follow her on rice. Makes 8 to 10 servings. Carlo Lamagna serves a riff onkilawin , a Filipino Instagram @cookingwithamy.

28 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 29 WILD ALASKAN POLLOCK VERSATILE. SUSTAINABLE. Ginataang Alimasag (Crab cooked in coconut milk) AFFORDABLE. DELICIOUS ABLE. Chef-owner Patrice Cleary Purple Patch, Washington, D.C.

6 to 8 blue crabs or 1 pound jumbo lump crab WILD CAUGHT 2 tablespoons oil 1 cup yellow onions, ALASKAN POLLOCK julienned ½ cup ginger, finely DELIVERS ON THE julienned 1 tablespoon fish sauce SUSTAINABILITY 5 cups coconut milk your customers demand and 1 teaspoon kosher salt 4 cups spinach the versatility you need for Jasmine rice, cooked, your menu. It’s mild flavor as needed works in a variety of menu Rinse crabs well and steam for about 20 minutes or until applications from tacos to shells change color; cool. sandwiches to fish and chips Remove the top shell, split the body in half and remove and more! lungs; set aside.

Heat oil in a large pot over high heat and cook onions and ginger until onions are translucent; add fish sauce.

Turn heat to medium. Add coconut milk and salt and bring to a boil. As sauce thickens, add crabs or crab meat. Turn heat to medium and continue to cook until the coconut milk starts to reduce, about 12 minutes. Add spinach and cook for 2 more minutes. Plate with jasmine rice. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Visit tridentseafoods.com 30 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 for more information. Foodservice at Stanford University is taking cues from students who want healthier options. FOOD FOR THOUGHT CATER TO TOMORROW’S DINERS BY STUDYING TODAY’S COLLEGE CAFETERIAS BY MIN CASEY

At the University of Colorado at Boulder, foodservice options are influenced by student preferences, which include (clockwise from the top): panini sandwiches, hot sauce bars, self-serve cereal centers, spice stations to amp up everyday dishes and locally sourced food. PHOTOGRAPHY BY CRAIG LEE PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANK LAWLOR FRANK BY PHOTOGRAPHY

FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 33 ❱ Customization A SNEAK PREVIEW OF THE is big at the University of RESTAURANT INDUSTRY’S Colorado at FUTURE IS PLAYING OUT Boulder. AT COLLEGE CAFETERIAS ACROSS THE COUNTRY. These dining halls are offering valuable insights into the meals, preparations and flavors likely to attract the 60 million-strong Generation Z demographic for years to come. To be sure, these aren’t your college lunchrooms. Progressive-minded dining directors are pushing staples like pizza, chicken fingers and mystery- meat specials to the sidelines. A wide array of notably upmarket fare, including made-to-order preparations using quality ingredients and a diverse range of globally influenced offerings, are taking their place. “Students are noticeably more interested in food than ever before,” says Zia Ahmed, senior director of dining services at The Ohio State University in Columbus, Ohio. “They’ve grown up eating out and have been exposed to so many different cuisines. PHOTO PROVIDED BY THE UNIVERSITY OF COLORADO BOULDER AT Being adventuresome is who they are. Their appetites are diverse; they’re curious and open.”

THE WORLD IS THEIR OYSTER OSU’s sprawling dining facility in Columbus THE RISE OF THE FLEXITARIANS THEIR handles 40,000 transactions each day. In the past, Interest in vegetarian and vegan options food operations of this scale tended to offer safe and remains strong on college campuses but in new and INTEREST IN predictable dining choices. unexpected ways. “This generation is very aware of Today, OSU students have access to a cultural and focused on plant-based diets but not necessarily FOOD GOES smorgasbord of options, from Korean barbecue in becoming a vegetarian,” says Nona Golledge, BEYOND and rice bowls to a pop-up Indian concept and a of Grand Rapids, Michigan-based Bakergroup churrascaria. “Their interest in food goes beyond Foodservice Consulting and Design. “Flexitarian is NOURISHMENT. nourishment,” says Ahmed. “For them, it’s an closer to their reality.” experience, and we have to bring it up to that level.” College students relish flexibility more than FOR THEM, Multicultural options abound at the University of anything. It’s not uncommon, for example, for Colorado at Boulder. A Persian food station serves some students to begin their day by eating healthy, IT’S AN halal meat, a curry concept draws from the top of transition toward a greasy snack like french fries, EXPERIENCE, India to the bottom of the South Pacific and a kosher sip some coffee as a mid-day restorative and finish concept has shown great cross-over appeal for with a balanced dinner or comfort food classic in the AND WE HAVE non-Jewish students, says Paul Houle, director of evening. campus dining services. All-day breakfast menus are also on the rise. The TO BRING IT A weekly pho station with customized soup bowls, breakfast stations at OSU serve more meals from 7 he says, draws huge crowds. “You think they won’t to 10 p.m. than they do in the early morning. UP TO THAT stand in line, but every Friday, they’ll be at least “Students do not label themselves the same way LEVEL.” 30 deep. We serve 500 to 600 portions,” says Amy that the industry does,” says Eric Montell, executive —Zia Ahmed, senior director Beckstrom, executive director of housing and dining director of Stanford Dining in Stanford University’s of dining services at The Ohio LAWLOR FRANK BY PHOTOGRAPHY Students pedal their way to a smoothie at services at UCB. Residential & Dining Enterprises. State University UC Boulder.

34 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 35 FEED AND INFORM THEM Food narratives matter to college BACK TO students, according to Montell. “They’re highly intelligent and expect SCHOOL easy access to information about their food College kids may be choices,” he says. “They care deeply about eating better than you food and what it means, especially in terms do. A menu sampler: of climate change and sustainability.” To ensure freshness and help reduce BOWDOIN COLLEGE, their carbon footprint, some colleges are BRUNSWICK, MAINE building greenhouses and on-campus ❱ Gulf of Maine fish farms that supply just-picked produce with lime-cilantro specifically for their dining halls. vinaigrette; smoky black Introducing authentic flavors doesn’t beans with kale hurt either. Stanford University ❱ Java-braised beef collaborates with prominent women chefs with cinnamon and and restaurateurs, including Mai Pham orange glaze; gazpacho for Asian cuisine, Iliana de la Vega for with pepper-Jack panini; modern Mexican and Tanya Holland for beef bibimbap African-American fare. The R&DE group provides comprehensive food education CALIFORNIA BAPTIST for its students so that they leave campus UNIVERSITY, RIVERSIDE, Pressed watermelon CALIFORNIA with a better appreciation of global food salad with feta and Executive Chef Erica and a strong sense of its role in building microgreens was ❱ Mediterranean flatbread Holland-Toll discusses served at a pop-up her dish with students community. ❱ American breakfast event at Stanford. at Stanford University’s They hope Gen Z will take all these tart with egg, applewood- Chef’s Table. traits with them as they leave college and smoked bacon, artisan pressure restaurants to adapt and respond. cheese and caramelized Nijo Joseph, assistant “It’s an ever-changing landscape,” says director of culinary onions Houle. “Every single year there’s a new set excellence, uses herbs ❱ Market salad with from Stanford’s indoor spinach, romaine, brie, of needs.” greenhouse. UCB’s Beckstrom agrees. “The days of apples, dried cranberries, FROM A ‘this is what we’re doing’ are gone,” she pecans and jalapeno- says. “You have to listen to customers balsamic vinaigrette and meet their needs. With so many TO GEN Z choices, someone will give them what they COLLEGE OF THE Nona Golledge has want. If you’re not customer-centric, it ATLANTIC, BAR observed college KNOW IT KNOW IT KNOW IT KNOW IT won’t last.” n HARBOR, MAINE They’re tech-savvy digital They desire a fast- High-quality ingredients— Variety is their birthright students from multiple ❱ Tamarind eggplant; natives who enjoy instant paced lifestyle and especially organic, local, and pretty much all vantage points. She’s Southwest pie with local info from any type of rely on convenience sustainable and humanely they know. the mother of one, chicken or local beans screen, especially their to support them. raised products—are as well as principal ❱ Glazed grilled mobile devices. an expectation. DO IT of Bakergroup THEY CARE DEEPLY ABOUT salmon with couscous Offer a variety of menu Foodservice DO IT and broccoli Develop grab-and-go choices, focusing on Consulting and DO IT DO IT FOOD AND WHAT IT MEANS, Build an app and make options and quick-serve To make the math work, customization and limited- Design; she previously KENNESAW STATE sure it offers sourcing info kiosks, even for made-to- manage the costs on the time offers. Offer access was director of ESPECIALLY IN TERMS OF UNIVERSITY, and nutritional profiles order fare. Prepayment back end, controlling to create condiments so dining services at the KENNESAW, GEORGIA about all your menu items. options and delivery portion size and waste. they can create their own CLIMATE CHANGE AND University of Kansas. ❱ Pancetta, arugula and Online ordering should options are also a must. flavor profiles. Golledge weighs in on SUSTAINABILITY. onion pizza be simple and provide an Estimate that you have some of the defining —Eric Montell, executive director of Stanford Univer- ❱ Slow mesquite-smoked online forum for feedback about five seconds to grab traits and offers sity’s Residential & Dining Enterprises Auburn BBQ pork and communication. their interest; miss it and suggestions to meet ❱ Dijon pork loin with they’re history. their needs. rosemary and garlic TOP PHOTO PROVIDED BY STANFORD UNIVERSITY. BOTTOM PHOTOGRAPHY BY CRAIG LEE PHOTO PROVIDED BY STANDFORD UNIVERSITY STANDFORD BY PROVIDED PHOTO

36 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 37 TREND TRACKER The heat index on what’s happening

PLANT-BASED LOVE. Alternative non-dairy milks, vegan and all the other California meatless hippie-dippie trends you probably rolled your eyes dreaming. at are now mainstream. Turn Octopus over a new leaf, then put it on Healthy eating has evolved from being trendy the menu. to requisite, which is why chefs are taking is over. holistic cues from the West Coast, using fresh Blame it on the eerie IT’S COOL TO LAST SEEN: Charlie Was A flavors and on-trend nutritious ingredients similarity to the Sinner in Philadelphia riffs off inspired by Californian cuisine. monsters in “Arrival” or BE SQUARE. the classic wheatgrass shot Clean color palettes those creepily alien-like by adding a healthy dose LAST SEEN: New Yorkers re-energize with and geometric designs YouTube videos, but of green Chartreuse for a creamed-kale bowls featuring black rice, are outfitting the latest it’s time to catch some refreshing if herbaceous twist. sweet-potato mash, eggplant, bonito, chili- hotspots for a look that’s other critters in the sea. Italian cuisine isn’t known for cucumbers and grapefruit-ginger ponzu at approachably retro-cool. plant-based dishes, but Civico hotspot Dimes. The Field Table in Madison, THE POWER OF PERSUASION. TRY THIS INSTEAD: 1845 in San Diego, California, Wisconsin, turns chiogga beets into a Like it or not, restaurants have entered Keep it a la plancha by is transforming a substantial carpaccio topped with horseradish crema, the marketing age of social influencers. substituting lobster, a number of traditional items balsamic gel, frisee and shallots. Learn how to work with these social salty crustacean that into an entirely vegan menu. media honchos without busting your works well with the budget on page 70. same Spanish flavors used for octopus.

GIVE THE FINGER CASHLESS COWS. TO POKE BOWLS. Does anyone really carry cash This fast casual trend these days? The restaurant Rye Now exploded faster than industry is starting to follow No longer an underdog anyone expected, suit, ditching cash-only grain, rye is expanding giving way to the same policies for mandatory card beyond whisky and bread punishing overexposure readers. See page 61. and appearing as a flavor that plagued fro-yo on menus from Venetian- shops for years. inspired SRV in Boston to the French-flavored TRY THIS INSTEAD: Republique in Los Angeles. Don’t want to reinvent the wheel? Lean a little more Japanese with Chicken is flying. chirashi bowls to stand INVENTIVENESS out from the crowd. PARTY IN THE BACK. Rotisserie birds are soaring in the casual GOOD ON GOURDS. OVERLOAD. Dual concepts aren’t new, segments, as white tablecloth restaurants show Don’t let your creativity go off The meatless and but restaurants and bars are their love for savory, slow-roasted chicken. the deep end. Did that cookie healthier-eating upping the entertainment really need salty black olives? movement can take ante with full-service LAST SEEN: Rich Table’s Sarah and Evan Rich credit for winter squash’s movie theaters, arcades, expand to their second San Francisco venture, TRY THIS INSTEAD: Stop newfound popularity as a shuffleboard courts and even RT Rotisserie. Rotisserie Georgette in New overthinking. Pare down your Find the side, salad and center-of- retro hot tub concepts. The York makes double use of its rotisserie to churn ingredients and get back to flame to see the-plate ingredient. See goal? Keep diners spending out four kinds of French-style chicken and basics for no-fuss dishes that what’s hot. page 16. money all night long. crispy potatoes. speak for themselves. #TrendTracker

38 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 39 FOOD PEOPLE

When Miss Vickie first started making potato chips, she relied on farm-fresh ingredients. Today, that approach inspires our commitment to not use artificial flavors or preservatives.

long live the NIGHT WALKERS BE READY. THESE DINERS WANT TO FEED BY MIKE SULA For more information and to order, please contact your local representative or visit us at MissVickies.com. E.P. & L.P. in Los Angeles is prepared to quell

PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANK LAWLOR FRANK BY PHOTOGRAPHY late-night hunger. FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 41 BEYOND BURGERS AND FRIES Most operators list burgers among their top-selling late-night menu items. But chefs tend to offer much more originality than what the nighthawks swoop in for. SORBETTO AL MIRTO Chef Kevin Hickey of Chicago’s Otto Mezzo The Black Cat in collaborated with local San Francisco serves healthy producer Black Dog options and the Gelato to conceive ice more late-night creams and sorbets to preferences of burgers and fries. complement the Italian PHOTO BY KELLY PULEIO liqueurs served at the bar. The one made with Sardinian myrtle berry “Work schedules are changing,” he says, second shift workers, those with unconventional liqueur is a runaway “Especially late night. It’s somebody working on a ❱ IF NOTHING GOOD EVER schedules and industry friends. best-seller. project. They will likely come by, grab a quick bite and probably head home to do some work.” HAPPENS AFTER MIDNIGHT, Location scouting then how do you explain the enduring success of The Automatic is located in Kendall Square, CRISPY CHICKEN SANDWICH Keep it simple New York’s Blue Ribbon Brasserie? Morning after a Cambridge, Massachusetts, neighborhood “It’s a fairly spicy Cooks aren’t generally accustomed to working early morning, it draws legions of sleepless off-duty surrounded by restaurants that serve their last signature sandwich, early morning hours, so it can be tough to find the chefs, musicians, tourists and Broadway actors for tables by 11 p.m. With a kitchen open until 2 a.m., which when you’re right crew. Chef Kevin Hickey of Chicago’s 4 a.m. bar its full fine dining menu. owner Dave Cagle gets plenty of cooks, servers and having a beer on the Otto Mezzo hired a fellow chef and former colleague Chef Ralph Johnson at The “It always kind of annoyed us when you would go bartenders rolling in for burgers and fries. rooftop goes hand who worked with him at the Four Seasons to run the Pikey, top left to a restaurant late at night and they would tell you “We’ve become the central meeting place for in hand,” says owner kitchen at the new Italian-inspired hotspot. photo at right, Grant Smillie of E.P. & and staff cater they were closing because they weren’t doing any service industry people,” he says. “Which is There’s only enough room in his tiny kitchen to regular and business,” says Chef-owner Bruce Bromberg. “We great because they order one of everything on the L.P. in Los Angeles. for two cooks, so Hickey designed a simple menu late-night diners wanted to be that place that everyone could count food menu and then buy rounds of shots for the of paninis, bruschetta and pastas of the day. “I with a variety of favorites, including on. That no matter when they showed up, they would whole bar.” tried to keep it super, super simple and just budget shareable entrees have that exact same experience at 8 in the evening But other diners also want to eat after midnight, VIETNAMESE FRIED RICE really high quality ingredients,” he says. “The and appetizers. as they would get at 2, 3, 4 o’clock in the morning.” which Cagle figured out how to draw them in. “We’re Duke’s Grocery in flavors are gonna be great, and you don’t need Blue Ribbon had the good fortune of capitalizing close to a couple hotels, and I have relationships with Washington, D.C., serious technique.” on exceptional word of mouth early on. Restaurateur the concierges,” he says. “People will ask where to serves it in a Chinese Rooftop bar E.P. on top of the restaurant L.P. in Drew Nieporent was among the first regulars, go, and the concierges give us a call. We make sure to takeout container with Los Angeles serves a four-item late-night menu from bringing in night owls such as Charlie Trotter and treat them like Kennedys when they get here.” bird’s eye chilies, basil, a back line separate from the downstairs dining Paul Bocuse back in the day. But you don’t need a The Black Cat in San Francisco doubles as a restau- peas, mint, carrots room’s kitchen. Simple, easy-to-eat bites—chicken SoHo address and the allegiance of every off-duty rant and music venue. Owner Fritz Quattlebaum sees and peanuts, and an sandwich, tofu fries, pastrami bao—require just line cook in town to pull in a post-midnight crowd. his fair share of drinkers looking to soak up alcohol, optional sweet sausage five minutes to serve and only daytime prep. “It’s A bonafide segment of diners wants to eat after but with the typical northern California appetite that or runny egg, which kind of like junior chef-level guys that can get it out hours—and not just those looking to sponge away demands something healthy even after midnight. satisfies vegetarians with consistency because it’s not too complex,” says developing hangovers. Think late-night travelers, Then there’s the tech industry. and carnivores alike. owner Grant Smillie.

42 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 43 CELEBRATE A

Don’t alienate your base Drinkers might be the most important part of your bottom line, so create an environment that LESS IS MORE welcomes them without alienating diners. “The most difficult part is trying to bridge both Grant Smillie opened his the bar crowd and the diners,” says Eric Shani, Los Angeles concept two general manager of The Pikey, a neighborhood pub years ago featuring E.P. in Los Angeles. “We’ve done stuff to bring in the Asian Eating House, a 150- drinkers, like DJs during the week and trivia night seat ground-level restau- in our private room. We have a comedy show on rant, and L.P., a 250-head Wednesdays, which tends to bring in more drinkers.” capacity rooftop bar, with a separate nine-item menu Stick to your guns available until 2 a.m. If you say you’re going to stay open, then stay open. Sticking to your posted hours, even during But after downsizing the slow nights, will build customer loyalty. But take rooftop menu to four items your time. and not serving it until 9 “A late-night menu is something that the staff and p.m., something surprising guests need time to digest,” says Daniel Kramer, happened: early rooftop managing partner at Duke’s Grocery in Washington, drinkers headed down- D.C. “If it doesn’t take off immediately, don’t stairs for a full meal, and be scared.” restaurant diners ended Ultimately, consistency and commitment are the their evening with a night- most important aspects of late-night dining, Blue cap on the rooftop. Ribbon’s Bromberg says. “It takes a ridiculous amount of dedication, focus “We increased our walk- and discipline, but our success was sitting there at ins for the restaurant by In honor of our golden anniversary and true, unmatched taste and ENTER THE GOLDEN GIVEAWAY the beginning for three and half hours without a 30 to 40 covers a night,” quality, look for our limited-time golden can of #1 best-selling for the chance to win a golden beach getaway including person walking in the front door and not closing the he says. “You extrapolate standard roundtrip airfare, standard hotel accommodations that over seven days, doors,” he says. “I think that’s paid off tenfold for us Country Sausage Gravy and the chance to win the Golden Giveaway. and a $1,000 gift card, or instantly win a prize. See details below.* down the road.” n you’re talking about a couple hundred covers at At L.P., the rooftop bar above the restaurant E.P. in Los VISIT CHEFMATEGOLDEN.COM Mike Sula is an award-winning journalist who is Angeles, chicken sandwiches, tofu fries and pastrami baos, a far greater ticket spend per head.” *NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Open only to Foodservice Operators who reside in the 50 U.S. or D.C., and are 18 years of age or older (or 19 or older for residents of AL and NE). Void where prohibited. proud to count himself as a late-night diner. top left, appeal to late-night drinkers and diners. Sweepstakes portion starts at 12:00:00 AM ET on 7/1/17 and ends at 11:59:59 PM ET on 12/31/17. The Instant Win portion starts at 12:00:00 AM ET on 7/1/17 and ends at 11:59:59 PM ET on 3/31/18. For a free code, email [email protected]. Odds of winning depend on the time and day the participant submits his/her Code, Receipt or AMOE Code and the order in which such Code, Receipt or AMOE Code is received. Subject to Official Rules at chefmategolden.com. Sponsor: NESTLÉ USA, Inc. 800 N Brand Blvd, Glendale, CA 91203

All trademarks are owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A., Vevey, Switzerland. 44 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017

NES-22188_CMGGAD_062617_v02c_FoodFanatics.indd 1 6/29/17 2:16 PM JOE DELOSS STEVE HOOPER JR. Founder of Hot Chicken Takeover, which has three Co-founder and CEO of Kigo Asian Kitchen, which WHY HIRE EX- locations and a food truck in Columbus, Ohio has five locations in Seattle WHEN YOU Backstory: An investment banking analyst Backstory: Financial services pro prior to join- GIVE THESE and entrepreneur prior to opening Hot ing Boston-based burrito chain Boloco in 2010. Chicken Takeover. Approach: Formed a partnership with Pioneer APPLICANTS Approach: Follows inclusive hiring practices, Human Services, which vets potential hires which give individuals with criminal back- with past offenses and provides support OFFENDERS grounds a fair chance at employment. during employment. A CHANCE, Restaurateurs complain DELOSS SAYS HOOPER SAYS THEY’RE that good help is hard Challenges: “A criminal record Challenges: “We founded Kigo Asian oftentimes is a symptom of instability. A Kitchen with the intent of taking care of to find, but how many of criminal record is often circumstantial and people and providing better wages and INCREDIBLY them consider workers not character-based. It’s that instability benefits. This is an industry and a country with a criminal past? that comes to work and shows itself in uniquely positioned to help people. Closing LOYAL. THEY terms of attendance or conflict. We can ourselves off from that population (1 in 3 Bias is the norm. attribute that to things like unreliable Americans have a criminal record) is a bad WANT TO transportation, inadequate childcare and business practice.” Over 90 percent of poor health care. That’s why we provide Advantages: “When you give these REBUILD overall companies use new employees with bus passes and gas applicants a chance, they’re incredibly background checks; a cards as well as access to financial literacy loyal. They want to rebuild themselves. THEMSELVES. criminal record reduces and savings programs.” They want the job. They want to be here, Advantages: “Our HR strategy has and they understand what mistakes look a job possibility by provided us with a highly engaged team like, much more than, say, college kids, … AS A RESULT, 50 percent, according that’s consistently more productive and whom we also hire. As a result, we’ve seen to the Leadership more engaged then what you usually see lower turnover. I came into this worried WE’VE SEEN Conference, an umbrella in the restaurant industry. In regards to that there was a higher risk, compared with organization for American key metrics like retention and turnover, the average employee, (for) theft or other LOWER we’re outperforming the industry things. The reality has been 180 (degrees) civil and human rights (average) by two-times. My life has been from that. We’ve only had one truly bad interest groups. enriched from the education I’ve received experience. When you compare that to the TURNOVER.” —Steve Hooper Jr., of Kigo Asian Kitchen and the relationships we’ve built with rest of our population, that’s a pretty good However, fair chance people who have very different experiences hit rate.” from my own.” hiring—policies that help job seekers reduce the stigma of incarceration, an arrest or a probation record—is making inroads. of AMERICANS HAVE A POLICE RECORD Just ask these operators. BY LISA ARNETT According30% to the American Leadership Conference and other sources

FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 47 KARIM WEBB CHAD HOUSER DENO ANDREWS Operating partner of PCF Restaurant Management, Founder, CEO and executive chef of President of Felony Franks in Oak Park, Illinois a franchisee of three Buffalo Wild Wings Grill & Bars Cafe Momentum in Dallas, Texas in South Los Angeles Backstory: Corporate executive before Backstory: Worked in the restaurant industry taking over Felony Franks, his family’s social Backstory: Worked in the restaurant industry for more than 20 years. enterprise restaurant business. Offers free for more than 25 years, beginning as a teen at Approach: Offers internships for teens ages consulting for restaurants interested in hiring his parents’ McDonald’s franchise. 15 to 19 formerly in juvenile detention. ex-convicts. Approach: Practices fair-chance hiring prac- Approach: Hires only employees who have tices designed to help and secure employment HOUSER SAYS served jail or prison time. for formerly incarcerated individuals and those Challenges: “When I started Cafe Mo- with arrest or probation records. mentum, people said, ‘What are you going ANDREWS SAYS to do when those kids stab each other in the Challenges: “What we’re really trying WEBB SAYS kitchen?’ And ‘Those kids don’t want a job; to do is lessen the stigmas associated with Challenges: “We aren’t intimidated they just want a check.’ It was very racist. If having a criminal record. When people by these kids’ backgrounds. Everyone we give teens a little more attention, more come into a place staffed by ex-felons deserves a second chance to do well and resources and hope, things can be very, and the food, the service and the whole create a better life for themselves. Instead very different.” experience is fantastic, that’s what starts of seeing someone as being straight out of Advantages: “My friends who own to chisel away at those stigmas.” juvenile detention or jail, we see people restaurants … every single one of them Advantages: “Certain states offer who are underloved and who have not been has the very same response, which is that tax incentives to businesses that hire shown how to be excellent. They have skill the best employees they’ve ever had were ex-offenders. There could also be some sets, but not enough people give them a ex-felons. They work hard and they take positive publicity for your restaurant based chance. We give them a chance not only to nothing for granted. Having been in the on your hiring practices. Obviously, with use their skills but to develop them.” industry for 20 years, I get tired of new us, it’s front and center because everyone Advantages: “We hold them to a high employees who say, ‘You don’t have to tell is an ex-offender. But if you can promote level of excellence and accountability. Ei- me how to do that. I’ve waited tables for 10 the fact that you have a diverse hiring ther they live up to it, or they don’t. If they years.’ OK, but we have a specific way that process—that you don’t discriminate do, we will help them develop more skills, we want you to wait tables. With our kids, against ex-offenders—you can open your and they will get to where they want to go. they’re a blank canvas. You show them how business to new clientele who are socially We start with the basics, create expecta- to do something one time, and they do it driven consumers.” n tions and go from there.” that way every single time. In our industry, that’s invaluable.” Lisa Arnett is a Chicago-based freelance writer who covers a wide range of topics, including food.

More than 50 WITH OUR KIDS, THEY’RE A BLANK CANVAS. YOU SHOW THEM HOW TO DO Regalia™ catering Grab Green and Go and WorldView™ SOMETHING ONE TIME, AND THEY DO IT THAT WAY EVERY SINGLE TIME. IN Grab and Go SKUs are available OUR INDUSTRY, THAT’S INVALUABLE.”—Chad Houser of Cafe Momentum through the CES

48 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 virtual catalog Questions to Reducing Labor Costs Rethink your slasher tendencies for better operations BY DAN MCGOWAN

❱ WHENEVER A RESTAURATEUR SAYS, “WE NEED TO DISCUSS LABOR COSTS,” THE IMMEDIATE RE- ACTION FROM MANAGERS IS TYPICALLY, “WE’LL HAVE TO START SLASHING HOURS AND PEOPLE.” As a longtime restaurant executive who spent almost 30 years at Chicago-based Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises before working with Tom Colicchio’s ’Wichcraft in New York City and consulting for a number of operators including Gibsons Restaurant Group, I can assure you other options are possible. It doesn’t have to be an either/or proposition. Operators who think in terms of binaries (either cut labor or face lower profits) usually hurt staff and erode the quality of the dining experience. Instead, make ‘and’ a part of your approach. You can run great labor models and be efficient while exceeding At Urbanbelly in Chicago, Dan guest expectations. Ask yourself these five questions McGowan, opposite page bottom photo, and staff practice the to reduce labor-related costs without sacrificing strategies he offers to reduce labor customer satisfaction. costs while improving operations and customer satisfaction. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SEAN MCGILL SEAN BY PHOTOGRAPHY

50 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 51 2 IS THAT REALLY NECESSARY? Although this is an extension of my “questioning tradition” philosophy, it can often result in stopping flawed practices. When I worked with Don & Charlie’s, a LEYE concept in Scottsdale, Arizona, we offered every table a complimentary relish tray. It was a great option for some, but costly for us and not eaten by all guests. At that time, we were also considering a price increase. We decided not to raise menu prices, but tacked a $1.95 charge for the relish tray, which was near cost. In no time, sales revealed that only 15 to 20 percent of our customers ordered the tray when they had to pay for it. By asking, “Is this necessary?” we developed a way to reallocate that labor in the kitchen, while reducing waste and avoiding a price hike.

3 CAN SOMEONE ELSE DO THE JOB? Cooks are usually responsible for breaking down and cleaning their station and the kitchen at the end of their shifts. However, as labor costs continue to rise, and the labor pool for able cooks continues to shrink, restaurants are opting for outside cleaning crews. They’re usually only a little more by the hour than the cooks but prove to be a relief for the line after slamming an eight- to 10-hour shift. It’s also a small perk for recruiting cooks. Leveraging technology leaves more time for staff 4 HAVE YOU MAXIMIZED TECHNOLOGY? at Urbanbelly to attend to diners. Let restaurant management software handle the time-sucking aspects of the business such as inventory, online ordering, scheduling, purchasing and reservations. Scheduling smarter will reduce 1 WHY? labor costs but the best services improve overall Being an outsider as a consultant has its profitability. Also, when you optimize technology, advantages, but that doesn’t mean you can’t workers can spend that time elsewhere, such as staff question the status quo. When I ask the question, training or paying more attention to guests. “Why do we do it this way?” managers typically say, “Well, that’s the way we’ve always done it.” 5 An established practice isn’t always an optimal ARE YOU HIRING THE BEST LEADERS? practice, but the act of questioning sets up an Management is a fixed cost, so be sure you have opportunity for positive change. the best management. Great leaders will always While working for ’Wichcraft, we ran a generate efficiencies because they don’t want to commissary for the New York stores. Knowing that micro-manage, deal with superfluous systems or be Manhattan real estate is costly, everyone assumed embarrassed by poor service. They want a stellar that a commissary would be the most efficient team to make their job easier. In a business with model. This may have been true during the plenty of challenges, who wouldn’t want that? n concept’s early days, but after careful analysis, we realized changing some purveyors allowed us to Dan McGowan is vice president for Chicago-based phase out most of the commissary work and obtain Cornerstone Restaurant Group, which includes the better products. Urbanbelly concepts and Michael Jordan restaurants.

52 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FOOD FANATIC ROAD TRIP! Get a mouthful from our resident experts

THE HIGHLIGHTS Astro Coffee (Corktown) Do you see a coffee bar in your future? Check out the specialty coffees at Astro from roasters locally and all over the country, as well as bread from Ann Arbor’s infamous Zingerman’s. Parc (Campus Martius Park) With its glass structure, the restaurant puts itself on full display as part of the city’s revival. If you’re thinking of a pasta program, get inspired by Chef Jordan Hoffman’s ways with flour and water or check out how his cooking reflects his Midwestern roots and childhood food memories.

Sugar House (Midtown) Take notes at Sugar House, a pre-Prohibition joint run by native Dave Kwiatkowski who seamlessly blends classic cocktails with modern flavors. Try the “Twister,” a blend of Brugal rum, Rhum JM, Galliano, coconut, MONOGRAM passion fruit, falernum, citrus and absinthe, or enjoy a classic Manhattan made with rye, Italian vermouth, maraschino and Angostura bitters. BOXES COMPLETE Mabel Grey (Hazel Park, Michigan) Opening a restaurant in a blue collar suburb 10 miles north of the city in a former diner sandwiched between YOUR MASTERPIECE a wrestling supply store and funeral home takes moxie. Chef-owner James Rigato shows how to exceed expectations and then some. Vincentes (Downtown) Detroit❱ DETROIT IS KNOWN AS THE MOTOR CITY and the home of Motown, This stalwart has endured the ups and downs of the but it could also be called a Timex Town. It takes a beating but keeps on ticking, city for 12 years, getting kudos for its longevity and civic pride fully intact. putting Cuban food on the map before it was cool. The proof is in the dining scene. Detroit is undergoing a restaurant renaissance that’s well worth the visit. Young chefs are setting up shop, putting down roots, kicking ass and making sure you know their names. Neighborhoods once forgotten are alive again with gastropubs, hipster bars and thoughtfully plated fancy food spots that you’d pay a lot more to enjoy in other cities. Take Phil Cooley, for example, who always seems to be betting on Detroit. Moving to Detroit in 2002, Cooley bought space in Corktown for his born-again barbecue concept, Slow’s Bar BQ, now a multi-unit hometown favorite. The city is luring talented chefs who cut their teeth at Chicago “name” restaurants like Table Fifty-Two. Co-executive Chefs John Vermiglio and Joe Giacomino have been turning heads nationally since they opened their neighborhood joint, Grey Ghost, last year. Get a taste of their Midwestern roots with hearty butchery such as lamb kielbasa with caper, brown butter and saffron or the octopus corn dog with chipotle, avocado and cotija. FOOD FANATICS We’ve called out some places to headline a trip to Detroit, which promises to Steven E. Grostick, left, and Randall Smith For more information, contact your US Foods Representative be an eye-opening journey into what’s new, cool and enduring. The Motor City have a line into the Detroit dining scene. or Save Time. Order Online! usfoods.com isn’t your dad’s Detroit anymore. n Connect with @ChefSGrostick on Twitter. DETROIT ILLUSTRATION BY TIM MARRS © 2017 US Foods, Inc. 07-2017-FOF-2017062203

54 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 Marcus Samuelsson has helped transform his Harlem community through food. Food has the poWeR to In 1994, Samuelsson moved to New York to work at Aquavit, the restaurant that change coMMunities. would earn him a shining 3-star rating Marcus Samuelsson doesn’t just ascribe from The New York Times and put his name to this philosophy; he lives it. Over the on the culinary map. While Samuelsson past decade as the internationally had no problem rising in the downtown renowned chef and restaurateur built fine dining world, he continued to feel a a veritable culinary empire, he has pull toward Harlem. simultaneously helped uplift a community “Moving to Harlem, understanding that has inspired him since his youth: that challenge and how I could bridge Harlem, New York. that gap—all of that came together,” he Along with opening his three says. “It was asking why are all the jobs destination restaurants in Harlem (Red downtown? Why can’t they be in this area? Rooster, Ginny’s Supper Club, Streetbird I held up the mirror and was like stop Rotisserie), Samuelsson co-produced complaining, do something.” and launched Harlem EatUp!, a four-day annual festival celebrating the diversity of Change FRoM Within the neighborhood. He’s also board co-chair Red Rooster, Samuelsson’s first Harlem of Careers through Culinary Arts Program concept, was a labor of love years in the (C-CAP), which helps disadvantaged youth making. Launched in 2010, it’s an homage prepare for careers in the restaurant and to the soul of Harlem as filtered through hospitality industries across the country. his unique Ethiopian and Swedish heritage. Most recently, Samuelsson partnered The menu is peppered with dishes like with US Foods to create products that chicken and waffles alongside Helga’s will carry the culinary spirit of this iconic meatballs (a nod to his grandmother, who neighborhood across the country. inspired Samuelsson’s love of cooking). “Food creates an identity that reflects the Good food can bring anyone into a community,” Samuelsson says. “Everyone restaurant, but Samuelsson wanted to wants to have a local experience.” jump-start a community. “The gospel choir came from Harlem, the Love at FiRst Sight artists came from Harlem—that represents After weathering a century of the walls (at Red Rooster). The plumber complicated history and socioeconomic comes from down the block. They look at MaRcus conditions, Harlem continues to find Rooster and see the community, that they strength from within. Its history as a can talk to us,” he says. “It feeds your local SaMueLSson cultural hub for African-American music, aspiration but also entrepreneurship.” art, poetry, dance, theater and food speaks Committed to hiring from the at a glance for itself. This is a neighborhood that gave neighborhood, Samuelsson employs an rise to landmark institutions such as the average of 200 employees and volunteers Apollo Theater and Dance Theatre of with C-CAP to help prepare at-risk young Age: 46 Harlem as well as swing dancing, jazz and people for careers in the restaurant and the birth of hip-hop. hospitality industry. In addition to creating Number of restaurants: As an adopted Ethiopian-born, Swedish- local jobs, Red Rooster bolsters area foot 11 concepts internationally raised immigrant still searching for his own traffic, pulling in 5,000 customers per identity, Samuelsson was inspired by the week, including those who might not Number of books: 7 imagery and music produced by Harlem’s otherwise visit the area. This attention African-American community. So could has turned Samuelsson’s restaurant into Awards: Youngest chef to anyone blame him for being starry-eyed on a community fixture, while increasing receive 3-star rating from The New his first visit to Harlem as a teenager? interest in local foodways. York Times while executive chef “We were in front of the Apollo; it was Rooster added to the culinary landscape, of Aquavit in 1995; received the such a big deal. It was so fascinating to helping reshape conversations surrounding Rising Star Chef Award from the be in this place that I was just trying to Harlem’s food scene. Soon, farmers James Beard Foundation in 1999. COMMUNITY FUELS CHEF MARCUS SAMUELSSON understand,” he says. “I started thinking markets began to pop up where there were about what’s my purpose and why is it that once none, along with piqued interest from Follow Marcus @MarcusCooks BY FOOD FANATICS STAFF good food is only in certain communities?” restaurateurs who wanted to help shape

56 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 57 Marcus Samuelsson shares his passion for the business with C-CAP high school students (clockwise from left) Jorge Torres, Jessica Moran and SaMuelsson Jaylen Downer. Says Creating change through C-CAP

One of Samuelsson’s greatest passions is working as board co-chair with the Careers through Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP), a nonprofit founded by industry vet Richard Grausman in 1990 to help underserved youth prepare for a career in the restaurant and hospitality industry.

Grausman noticed that the teens were most engaged when they were cooking and working hands-on in the kitchen, an observation that helped shape the program. C-CAP starts by introducing high school students to basic culinary skills and linking them to jobs and a support network. It then goes a step further by providing promising students with scholarships to culinary school.

In addition to New York, C-CAP now has branches in Philadelphia, Chicago, Washington, D.C., Los Angeles, Arizona, and Hampton Roads, Virginia.

“C-CAP is one of the most beautiful endeavors I’ve ever been part of. It’s important to make sure kids in the Above: Marcus Samuelsson shows searing and basting techniques to C-CAP students Jaylen Downer, left, community see the types of careers and Jorge Torres. Below: Like Samuelsson, Sharene Wood, co-owner of Harlem Haberdashery, is a strong they can aspire to in the restaurant supporter of the community. business,” Samuelsson says. “At the the growing community. In 2015, he co-produced and curated same time, C-CAP graduates are a overseas. Marcus’ Bermuda, which opened Who are the writers that inspired this “If you dine somewhere, you’re more Harlem EatUp!, a food, art, music and “COMING UP WITH huge benefit to the growing restaurant in 2015 at the Hamilton Princess hotel in place? I challenge my team to do the likely to walk around the community and cultural festival. Headlining Harlem chefs industry and chefs looking for skilled Bermuda, introduced signature dishes, homework first. Then we say, ‘How can we engage a community like Harlem,” he says. including Lance Knowling of Blujean A GREAT PRODUCT and motivated talent.” such as his fried yard bird and shrimp and add to that?’ Add value to the community and Melba Wilson of Melba’s along with grits, to a wider audience. Red Rooster that you work in.” BReaKing BRead celebrity culinarians such as Daniel FOR OTHER CHEFS, Shoreditch, a replica of his Harlem outpost, His latest venture involves sharing his Much like the hospitality industry serves Boulud and Dominique Crenn created a landed in London in the spring of 2017. passion for great food with a community as a tight-knit community beyond the walls draw and ultimately turned the event into INVITING THEM Translating an existing concept or menu that has given so much to him. By working of its restaurant, Samuelsson leveraged a highly sought after ticket. in a different country might seem like a with US Foods, Samuelsson hopes these his brand in hopes of taking the spirit of Straight off the success of Red Rooster INTO A SPACE simple cut-and-paste job, but Samuelsson products will instill chefs with a sense of Harlem to a larger platform. and Ginny’s Supper Club, he opened his takes extra steps to ensure he’s socially curiosity and experimentation. It began with bringing more New Yorkers third Harlem restaurant, Streetbird THEY MIGHT NOT responsible and an authentic culinary “Whether it’s the cornbread, spice and tourists into the fold—people who Rotisserie, a pop culture-driven rotisserie ambassador. His process starts a few years or smoked salmon, all of these things often viewed the neighborhood as a mere concept inspired by the neighborhood’s KNOW ABOUT— prior to the opening of his restaurant, represent comfort for me,” he says. “For stop-off point en route to other locales. hip-hop and street art scene from the late perhaps with the launch of a pop-up eatery. me, it’s about solutions. I’m very lucky that “(Tourists) would come on a bus with ’70s to ‘90s. The more casual menu and THAT’S AS It’s all about digging deep and asking a lot I can travel the world, and share that with images of iconic places, like the Apollo, vibe allowed Samuelsson to reach an even of questions. your compadres. Coming up with a great then get back on the bus and leave,” he says. wider audience. IMPORTANT AS “Who was here before us? Who do we product for other chefs, inviting them into “I wanted them to stay longer and have a He also started opening concepts owe this place to? What can we add?” a space they might not know about—that’s true experience with food.” internationally, bringing a taste of Harlem THE CUSTOMER.” Samuelsson says. “Who are the fishermen? as important as the customer.” n

58 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 59 MONEY CASH & SENSE

OUTThe case for sticking to plastic and opting for mobile payments BY LISA ARNETT PHOTO BY FRANK LAWLOR

FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 61 TRANSACTION FEES ❱ Not long ago, cash-only GAIN BACK LOST TIME Argo Tea mitigates costs by grouping Transaction times are reduced when transactions monthly into a single charge. bars and restaurants employees aren’t required to make “It’s similar to what Apple does with change—a boon to customers and staff grouping together small iTunes charges. made what some alike. “Many guests choose (us) because Rather than charge customers for each customers might call an they are looking to enjoy a fantastic dining song separately, they wait a few days and experience when they don’t have the time then bundle charges together to save on unfortunate comeback. to sit down at a table and enjoy a two- credit card fees,” says Zangara. Merchants The return to old-school transactions with hour meal,” says Max Rockoff, assistant pay transaction fees for each credit card cold, hard cash allowed operators to skip manager of Daily Provisions, a cashless charge, no matter if it’s for $1 or $50.” credit card fees and reel in extra profit by sandwich and coffee shop in New York pointing diners to an on-site ATM. City from Danny Meyer’s Union Square DINERS CAUGHT OFF GUARD With fewer customers carrying cash Hospitality Group. “Time is important to Daily Provisions notes its cashless and more migrating to mobile payment them. Removing cash from the equation policy on its website and on-site, but the options, such as Apple Pay or Google plays to that guest need, while not taking occasional guest is still caught unprepared Wallet, the pendulum is swinging toward away from their experience.” at the counter. cashless transactions. Though kicking It also cuts time spent on cash Monitoring how “We happily find a way to help them out,” customers pay cash to the curb isn’t feasible for every management. Argo Tea Director of will determine Rockoff says. “Many times, we will offer to operation, the benefits can often outweigh Operations Jonathan Zangara estimates whether Burrito take care of his or her meal, as we don’t feel the inevitable challenges. Here, operators that employees spend six to 10 hours a day Beach ends cash that a guest should be penalized for being transactions. who have gone digital share what to expect managing cash, whether it’s counting the unaware of our cashless policy.” from the switch. cash till, making multiple bank deposit Sometimes, diners would prefer to cancel trips or closing registers at the end of the their order than accept a freebie, Rockoff night. In May, the tea chain started testing WATCHING CASHLESS CLOSELY says. “If they insist on not allowing us to cashless operations in three Chicago stores THE CHALLENGES take care of their meal, we will offer them THE BENEFITS and one New York store, which they hope Consumer preferences will help determine a ‘Hey Neighbor’ card, our version of a will reduce transaction times and increase whether Burrito Beach goes cashless. BACKLASH FROM CUSTOMERS comp card, so that next time, one item is on INCREASED SECURITY customer service. Customers might gripe that their money us, and we can make up for the meal they The absence of cash on the premises When there’s no cash counting, staff Go to “isn’t good” at your restaurant. “There are weren’t able to have this time.” makes your business a less-likely target for regains the time to attend to customer FOODFANATICS.COM guests who have strong opinions, but these As transactions increase on a theft. After his business was the victim of needs, Zangara says. for more on opinions have led to great conversations, EXCLUDING CERTAIN POPULATIONS repeat armed robberies, David Hart, owner improving operations. cashless basis, it becomes clear further fostering a relationship with those Alienating those who don’t have access of Park Cafe & Coffee Bar in Baltimore, BOOST CLEANLINESS what your customer wants. There who choose to dine with us,” Rockoff says. to credit—whether it’s teenagers, seniors made the move to go cash-free. When Handling cash is one of many sources are benefits to it—possibly speed Because Park Cafe is among a handful or low-income customers—is a concern but other recommended security measures of cross-contamination in foodservice. of service—and there are technical of cashless businesses in Baltimore, other can be addressed. didn’t work, such as adjusting hours and By going cashless, operators can wipe drawbacks (such as credit card curious business owners check in with Cashless customers are asked if they are installing panic buttons, going cashless their hands of a health-code risk. “Cash readers going down). But as the Hart about lost business. “Yes, I’ve lost willing to accept cash from another diner gave him and his staff much-needed peace is just phenomenally dirty,” Hart says. only 10 to 20 percent of customers use electronic economy evolves and it some, but it’s such a nominal number. It’s to execute the transaction, which Hart of mind. “It’s a contributing factor in passing on cash. The majority use credit cards, mobile becomes more mainstream, more really not even worth considering,” he says. says builds community. He’s also offered “Baltimore has its problems with foodborne illness. I’m really glad we don’t payment or Argo’s own mobile app, which people may give it a try. At Argo Tea, Zangara has been pleasantly his credit card and has taken care of the increasing opioid and addiction problems, have that issue anymore.” allows customers to order and pay in surprised by the low volume of negative transaction the same way. so a lot of people would come in with bags advance, customize their order and earn reactions. “We are generally seeing them “Time marches on, and there’s of change, and when we could, we would PROMOTE A MOBILE APP rewards, Zangara says. To get customers on in the older demographic,” he says, “but the generational change,” Hart says, adding cash them out,” Hart says. “We do try to be Taking cash out of the equation can board, team members are promoting the —Greg Schulson, founder and CEO of younger demographic is understanding and that younger diners see cashless as being humane, but (without cash on hand) that’s provide an opportunity to promote an app in-person with $5 incentives to spend multi-unit Burrito Beach, on whether to willing, and some of them are even saying, seamless. “We will likely get to the point now disappeared.” in-house app to customers. At Argo Tea, at the location on the spot. transition to cashless payments ‘You’re speaking my language.’” where cash will probably go away.” n

62 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 63 John Bush, left, Dale Talde, David Massoni of The Three Kings team.

wning and operating a Boneyard Bistro in Sherman Oaks, different. So he and Snipes made a move, stand-alone restaurant is California, in 2005, no restaurants were transforming the decades-old space a high-risk, high-reward similar to his traditional barbecue joint into SOCA (short for Sherman Oaks, endeavor. But the thrill of fused together with an American bistro. California), a globally influenced steak- continued growth can often Robins contemplated opening other and-seafood spot. be too alluring to pass up. Do Boneyard locations but he couldn’t find the After observing how narrowly focused The team behind SOCA it right and you’re counting right fit. culturally driven restaurants tend to fall considered the clientele Benjamins. Do it wrong and everything Then, about a year ago, a property in a in and out of favor, he decided to create and traffic flow before Ocould be jeopardized. Overseeing an prime location nearby became available, a seasonally driven steak menu. “We’re choosing its location in Sherman Oaks, California. expansion demands a different set of and he began to consider opening a new not being lassoed into a single type of skills and considerations than what led to concept in his own backyard. cuisine,” he says. “That allows us to evolve success the first time around. Months before, Robins and his partner, and change as customers change and Take in how these three operators are Rory Snipes, had thoroughly cased the palates change.” navigating growth and the lessons they space. They’d have a drink, observe the Whether he opens his second Boneyard learned along the way. clientele and gauge traffic flow. The site Bistro location depends on SOCA’s offered advantages, including a large performance, he says, along with how labor kitchen as well as proximity to their issues, price hikes and the shortage of Lesson No. 1 existing restaurant. cooks play out over the next few years. Proximity Has Its Benefits “When you’re managing two different “We definitely have a whole list of GO FORTH + MULTIPLY Aaron Robins opened his second spots,” Robins says, “you can quickly jump concepts that are ready to go,” Robins says. restaurant, SOCA, over 10 years after his over to the other if there are problems.” But relishing his experience designing BUT READ THIS BEFORE STARTING YOUR RESTAURANT EMPIRE first one, but it wasn’t for lack of trying. After talking with his customers, Robins SOCA, he’s mulling the idea of consulting BY MEGAN ROWE AND PETER GIANOPULOS When Robins launched his first concept, realized they were looking for something for others as well.

FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 65 Steak & Whisky in Hermosa Beach, California, is one of Blackhouse Hospitality’s with a food hall developer working on growing repertoire Lesson No. 2 Grandview Public Market in West Palm of concepts. Partnerships matter Beach, Florida, they knew they were truly If you’re in high-octane growth mode, ready to oversee a market. They agreed to consider looking for ways to mitigate risk create three concepts for that space, with by forging strategic partnerships with perhaps more on the way. hotels or food hall developers. Through it all, the Three Kings team Initially, Chef Dale Talde and his has learned the importance of shuttering partners in Three Kings Restaurant underperforming spaces. They’ve recently Group, David Massoni and John Bush, closed two other Brooklyn projects that prized speed over prudence. When their didn’t make sense for financial or strategic Asian-American concept Talde debuted in reasons, choosing instead to look for more Brooklyn, New York, in 2012, it was such partnerships. an instant hit that they wanted to begin “We’re now at the point where we’re expanding as quickly as possible. hiring people who have more experience But the haste proved to be waste. than we have,” Massoni says. “Sometimes Flattered by all the positive attention, they we go without to make sure we are building didn’t properly vet all the potential deals the right team.” coming their way. “We thought, ‘Oh my God—another opportunity. We’re hungry, we want to grow, let’s make it happen,’” Lesson No. 3 Chef-owner Aaron says Massoni. Know When to Take a Breather Robins, below, took a steady and The group opened a second Talde in Never underestimate the toll of break- strategic approach Jersey City, New Jersey, and eagerly neck expansion. Just because you can Bluegold/LSXO in to open his second took on a second concept, an Italian continue to expand doesn’t mean you Huntington Beach, restaurant, SOCA. restaurant and gourmet food market should. Sometimes the smarter play is to Blackhouse will double the number of its California, melds two Blackhouse called Carrino Provisions. call a timeout so you can analyze your own Little Sister locations from two to four this brands into one. Talde clicked, but Carrino Provisions strengths and weaknesses. coming year. proved to be a misstep. “Doing a fine- That’s the strategy Blackhouse Knowing big-name developers often food market was not in our wheelhouse,” Hospitality Management adopted earlier court independent operators by offering Massoni recalls. “It did not work out.” this year. Previously, Blackhouse had been incentives, Blackhouse has learned to be “WHEN YOU’RE The smarter play, the group decided, on a tear, launching eight restaurants far more strategic in choosing sites. The was to open a third Talde location in the across Southern California in the first five company now looks for space in mixed-use MANAGING Thompson Miami Beach Hotel (now The years of its existence. developments and locations that offer the Confidante) in Miami Beach, Florida. After opening its newest project in 2016— kind of all-day traffic that leads to lunch and TWO To prepare, they soaked up as much a hybrid seafood/steak concept called dinner sales. knowledge about hotel dining as they Bluegold, which included a miniature As its restaurant portfolio grows DIFFERENT could. With newfound experience came version of flagship restaurant Little Sister the company uses more outside help. new opportunities. The group soon agreed called LSXO tucked inside it—the group It outsources its HR and finance SPOTS, YOU to develop the food and beverage program has hit the pause button. operations, and has added internal food at the new Arlo NoMad Hotel in New York The much-needed break will give and beverage specialists, operations CAN QUICKLY City before its fall 2016 debut, rolling out Blackhouse’s founders—Jed Sanford, Tin experts and a marketing manager to four dining concepts over several months. Vuong and Scott Young—a chance to map standardize procedures. Now confident in their ability to out the company’s next phase of growth. “People open restaurants for a lot of JUMP OVER handle large crowds, the group agreed Until now, Blackhouse’s strategy has reasons,” Sanford says. “It came from a in early 2017 to open Atlantic Social, a been predicated almost entirely on place of passion for us, but it turns into a TO THE OTHER classic tavern in Brooklyn, and to run a instinct. As a result, some of its concepts business. You can’t lose that passion, but restaurant, rooftop bar and subterranean have yielded less-than-optimal results. you have to manage it from a little more IF THERE ARE late-night lounge in the forthcoming 50 The lesson learned? Say “no” more logical standpoint.” n Bowery Hotel, which is set to debut this often. Instead Blackhouse has decided to PROBLEMS.” year in New York’s Chinatown. build out concepts that don’t have a lot Cleveland-based writer Megan Rowe covers —Aaron Robins of Boneyard Bistro and SOCA But they didn’t stop there. When a well- of direct competition. French-Southeast restaurant, hotel and travel trends. Follow connected attorney put them in touch Asian restaurants are rare, which is why her on Instagram @ontherowed.

66 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 67 iHELP Be efficient and tech savvy at the same time REACH ENGAGEMENT Found in People who have seen a social media A combination of social media shares, likes message. Reach indicates the message’s and comments. Strong engagement makes popularity, but it doesn’t reveal who saw it for highly valued brand advocates. It shows Translation or identify potential customers. an emotional connection. How to interpret social media success By Megan Rowe You post specials on Facebook, tweet more than Donald Trump and maintain a killer Instagram portfolio. But is any of this impacting the bottom line? Understanding the language for tracking metrics or “key performance indicators” can provide insight. Commit this guide to memory. ORGANIC AMPLIFICATION FOLLOWERS MENTIONS RATE Those who share your messages on their Number of social shares per post. Your number of followers on Facebook, own accord. Positive mentions are terrific; This matters because consumers trust Instagram and Twitter doesn’t always equate negative ones require damage control. recommendations from their friends over to actual or potential customers. Check out messages from businesses. other measurements here. MASH UP YOUR MARTINI

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meals for influencers who came into the restaurant to sample its menu. Last summer, Instagram influencer A Post is @new_fork_city shared a photo of THESE ARE MODERN FOOD strawberry-rhubarb ice cream from Springbone Kitchen with its 818,000 CRITICS, AND WE WANT followers. The impact was immediate: TO HAVE RELATIONSHIPS Worth 1,000 There was a significant increase in sales of the sweet treat, according to co-owner WITH THEM, BUT WE DON’T Sam Eckstein. “These are modern food critics, and EXPECT ONE POST TO Shares we want to have relationships with them, CONVERT SOMEONE.THEIR Engage social media but we don’t expect one post to convert someone,” he says. “Their posts help keep influencers by spreading the us in the conversation.” POSTS HELP KEEP US IN good food gospel THE CONVERSATION. BY JODI HELMER Grabbing their attention —Sam Eckstein, co-owner of Springbone Kitchen Courting influencers is simple: host special events, serving the most Instagram-worthy dishes on the menu and ❱ WHEN DINERS TREAT NELLIE’S provide plenty of time—and good lighting— SOUTHERN KITCHEN AS A PHOTO STU- for influencers to get the perfect shots to share with their followers. Finding the DIO, OWNER KEVIN JONAS SR. KNOWS right influencers, however, is the challenge. invites influencers to dine at Nellie’s GOOD THINGS WILL HAPPEN. Henry spends countless hours looking Southern Kitchen. After a meal, photos of the fried chicken, at social media accounts, searching for “It gets to the point that we know them, four-cheese mac, and shrimp and grits influencers who are a good fit for her not just their handles,” he says. “We treat will be posted on social media sites such How influential? Twitter, according to a study by Twitter clients. An influencer with an Instagram them like VIPs and show them the same as Instagram, Snapchat, Twitter and Consider this: When the influencers and data analytics firm Annalect. feed filled with vegan foods, for example, respect for their work that we hope to Facebook, giving the Belmont, North behind @noleftovers shared a photo of “There is a lot more engagement and is not going to promote a new burger joint. receive in return.” Carolina, restaurant invaluable exposure an egg and smoked salmon sandwich exposure on platforms like Instagram Then, she checks their follower numbers What influencers almost never receive to the masses. from a New York pop-up of Eggslut, a Los than in traditional media,” notes Terri and assesses their level of engagement. in return is cash. In some industries, Although Jonas loves when diners Angeles-based restaurant, with their Henry, founder of Terri Henry Marketing, Fielding calls from Instagrammers influencers are paid to post photos. It spread the gospel of their restaurant via 306,000 Instagram followers, it racked up a California-based public relations firm boasting about their follower numbers and happens in the restaurant business, too, social media, the impact is most profound 6,384 likes and comments like, “Please get specializing in restaurant clients. “It’s asking for reservations and comps at her but Jonas prefers to deal in dinners, not when Instagrammers with robust this for me,” and, “This is what I (want) not the marketing of the future; it’s the clients’ restaurants is also common, which dollars. followings—called influencers—post tomorrow a.m.” marketing of right now.” means she vets those potential influencers Although it’s impossible to control photos, tagging @NelliesSouthernKitchen Influencer marketing delivers a return as well. what an influencer shares, most share and using hashtags like #YUM. on investment that is 11 times higher Gauging the return Jonas looks past the total number only raves; a series of negative posts will With a single post, influencers can than traditional channels, according Despite increased engagement and of followers, noting, “In this area, we’re not make it difficult to get VIP treatment from help restaurants build credibility, boost to a market study by ad targeting and exposure, it’s difficult to calculate the going to have accounts with millions their target restaurants. For this reason, brand awareness and drive sales, which metrics firm Nielsen Catalina Solutions return on investment from influencer of followers.” Henry believes, “You need to get on the is why more restaurants are eschewing and TapInfluence. Moreover, 49 marketing. You can see the number of Instead, he wants to connect with bandwagon. Influencer marketing cannot traditional media placements percent of social media users rely on impressions, likes and comments, but influencers who are active on their be ignored.” n in favor of engaging with influencers and recommendations from influencers when might never know if followers dropped in platforms by following influencers, their audiences. making purchasing decisions and nearly for dinner. liking, sharing and commenting on their Jodi Helmer is a freelance writer whose “These are people with a big audience— 40 percent of consumers have purchased New York City’s Springbone Kitchen posts, and getting to know them through work has appeared in numerous business Sam Eckstein, top right, and Jordan Feldman, founders of Springbone Kitchen, experienced the power of an and that audience is loyal to them,” he says. items influencers promoted on social began hosting influencer events to promote their social media activities. Once he’s publications, from Forbes to Fast Company. influencer when sales of their strawberry-rhubarb ice “Their influence has an impact.” media channels like Instagram and its 2016 opening with complimentary established a virtual connection, Jonas Follow her on Twitter @HelmerJodi. cream spiked after an Instagram post.

70 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 71 Chowbotics’ robot makes salads to order.

❱ If you’re curious how advances in AI and robotics might fundamentally transform the restaurant industry, consider Miso Robotics’ Flippy what happened at a CaliBurger consists of a work station to make location in Pasadena last summer. automated burgers. In the restaurant’s kitchen, a machine named Flippy—using thermal sensors, cameras and special attachments—cooked a hamburger almost entirely by itself. First, a cook placed an uncooked burger onto a grill. Flippy flipped it over as it monitored its internal temperature, and then alerted one of its human “assistants” it was time to apply a slice of cheese and send it on its way. “We wanted to show that it’s possible to Deepak Sekar, founder and CEO of in their kitchens. Typically, they’re small leverage technology to leave the dull, dirty Chowbotics, the San Francisco startup that pilot projects used to test feasibility, often work (in restaurant kitchens) to robots WE WANTED TO SHOW created a salad robot, believes that food for food prep. and free up chefs to work on tasks that will be at the heart of the next industrial Chowbotics started taking pre-orders for improve the dining experience,” says David THAT IT’S POSSIBLE TO revolution. “Today, several industries have its salad robot this spring; Miso Robotics Zito, CEO of Miso Robotics, the California LEVERAGE TECHNOLOGY become more efficient by using automation. went back to the lab to tweak Flippy after startup that created Flippy. One of the last major industries that its proof-of-concept shift at CaliBurger and But this is about more than just flipping TO LEAVE THE DULL, DIRTY has not seen these improvements is is targeting 2018 for its commercial rollout. burgers. Restaurants are beginning to use WORK TO ROBOTS AND foodservice,” he says. Meanwhile, startup companies like Zume RAGE AGAINST robots to measure ingredients, toss salads The question being pondered now is Pizza are testing robots in single-unit and spread marinara sauce on pizza dough FREE UP CHEFS TO WORK just how much help—if any—tomorrow’s restaurants while Eatsa, a self-ordering, in hopes of cutting costs and creating back- kitchen robots will need from their human automat-like fast-casual quinoa bowl of-the-house efficiencies. ON TASKS THAT IMPROVE sous chefs. concept, has been tweaking its menu. Thanks to the growing interest in “There are certain less-skilled tasks in THE MACHINES? everything from driverless cars and drone THE DINING EXPERIENCE. Evaluating the Impact the kitchen that have to be done to prep Robots will likely work in tandem with staff deliveries to cashless operations and self- —David Zito, CEO of Miso Robotics Contrary to the media hype on robots for service and that kind of repetitive prep ordering kiosks, it seems almost inevitable replacing humans, only a handful of work can be taken over by machines,” BY JODI HELMER that robots will impact foodservice as well. operators are using advanced automation says Karen Malody of Culinary Options,

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a restaurant consultancy in Portland, multiple pieces of equipment to automate competitive edge, made operations more Oregon. But Malody questions whether a the entire kitchen. productive and helped increase sales. surge of fully automatic innovations will Though companies declined to provide “Because wages are rising so fast, there is occur soon. specifics about the costs of their robots, a lot of pressure on fast-casual restaurants Instead, Malody envisions more “co- Malody estimates the innovations price to automate the customer experience,” robotic” partnerships where kitchen staff tags are upwards of $30,000. says Anil Bathwal, who opened The Kati work side-by-side with robots. “You need enough capital to invest in this Roll Company in 2002. Bathwal has used A recent report from the McKinsey kind of technology,” notes Malody. “But if technology to track revenue and expenses, Global Institute supports that idea, noting you have a high-volume business, you could while also adding online ordering and self- that less than 5 percent of occupations see a return on investment very quickly, order kiosks. “If the restaurant can run could be fully automated using current especially in the back of the house where better through technology, it makes sense technologies, but almost every occupation robots can improve speed and efficiency.” to adopt it.” has the potential to be partially automated. It’s not just the cost that needs to be But Bathwal’s street food concept is more Even partial automation, the report notes, considered. Robots won’t need breaks complex than tossing a salad or flipping a could save almost $15 trillion in wages. or have to call in sick, but Zito admits burger, leading him to believe that robots Still, Sekar believes widespread software malfunctions and repairs wouldn’t have a place in his kitchens. adoption of robotics in foodservice might be needed. He estimates it will take “We’ll need to use some automation for is not far off. “In the next five years,” years before foodservice robots are 100 scale, but our entire concept is based on he says, “we expect many foodservice percent reliable. making our food by hand,” he says. establishments to begin using robots to Even if robots become standard in make their operations more efficient.” Embracing Low Tech Where It Counts the back of the house, Zito believes Research shows that online reservations, restaurants will always need talented Change Comes at a Cost remote ordering, mobile payment staff in the kitchen to experiment with Current robotic innovations tend to processing, ordering kiosks and email new ingredients, create menus and taste focus on completing specific tasks, such receipts are top priorities for customers. dishes—at least in the foreseeable future. as making a salad or flipping burgers. A National Restaurant Association report “With AI, the hype is so far ahead of the The singular focus of these machines found that 80 percent of operators agreed technology,” he says. n means operators would need to invest in that technology gave their restaurant a © 2017 US Foods, Inc. 07-2017-FOF-2017011104

74 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 DEAR FOOD FANATICS Seasoned advice on the front and back of the house

I wish my kitchen was more efficient. My ticket times are really lagging. What options do I have?

Take a hard look at the line. Can the space easily execute the menu? Does the flow make sense or are cooks tripping over one another because the equipment isn’t in the right spot? Make sure that the execution flows with the line. Once you figure this out, determine whether it’s more cost effective to tweak the menu or restructure the kitchen.

Q. I’ve created back-of-the-house recipe Q. I’m not much of a baker nor do I have the to hold workers accountable. Such measures will books and front-of-the-house cheat sheets to talent on my team, but I would love to make lead to a more productive work environment and ensure consistency, but there are still issues, bakery items more profitable with easy from- ensure better customer experiences. especially when I take a day off. Suggestions? scratch recipes. How can I get this done? A. Try the money jar solution. When FOH A. Desserts are a great category to make up Q. We’re big on smoked meat, but we’re employees ring in an incorrect order or take the food costs from higher-cost proteins. Try getting more requests for vegetarian options. the wrong food out of the window, they add $1 quick breads like banana nut, zucchini and creme What would work for us? of their own money. When the BOH misses the fraiche, and bourbon nut with orange glaze. A. Lightly smoking vegetables can satisfy as details of a customer request or places the wrong Cooking down apples or pears with cranberries a center-of-the-plate option. Think of cauliflower side with an entree, the individual adds $1. At the makes a nice filling for puff pastry, which can sliced as “steaks.” Same with winter squash. end of the month, reward the ones who did not be purchased frozen. Try bread pudding using Smoking high protein grains such as quinoa add to the jar by giving them the money. After day-old bread or leftover cinnamon rolls. A creme and millet for vegetable burgers can also add a few weeks of your staff shelling out their own anglaise or a caramel and sweetened condensed flavor. Consider smoking nuts, such as walnuts or money, things will change. milk sauce spiked with a liqueur and a canelle of cashews, to use as milks or to puree for a pasta ice cream rounds out the bread pudding. sauce or as a complement for another dish. n Q. New hires show so much promise, but then all hell breaks loose when the Q. How do I get my employees to promote honeymoon wears off. What gives? my brand as a restaurant and give the best A. Be honest with yourself: do you spend customer experience? enough time with training? Training isn’t a one- A. Start with your restaurant culture and shot deal; it’s ongoing. A good training program demonstrate these values to your employees For more tips will cover quality standards, food safety, company every day. If you don’t have these core guidelines check out principles, policies and procedures so that established and written, take time to articulate @foodfanatics your staff will be armed with the knowledge to them. Post them where workers can see them. on Twitter. GOOD TO-GO. consistently perform duties according to the Point out when an employee demonstrates these Today’s customers place orders for takeout or delivery with the touch of a ® expectations. Training should also be consistent beliefs and follows guidelines, keep score and cellphone. Send their meals off in sturdy Monogram shopping bags. These ®* with creating an exceptional guest experience. reward them weekly or monthly. Also, remember FSC -certified bags, made from 100% post-consumer recycled paper, are responsibly sourced and reduce waste – part of the Serve Good™ program at US Foods®. Available in three sizes, these bags ensure you’ll be ready when it’s to-go time. *Forest Stewardship Council® Got a question for the Food Fanatics? Send your challenges, comments and suggestions to [email protected]. For more information, contact your US Foods Representative or Save Time. Order Online! usfoods.com

76 FOOD FANATICS | FALL 2017 Matthew Biancaniello uses candy cap mushrooms for eggnog.

As you’re building a drink, Biancaniello ❱ Chances are that your bar says, continually ask yourself whether you Get this recipe, Throw dabbles in culinary cocktails can taste its distinct elements. “Balance the Dog a Bone, at doesn’t mean tasting each ingredient FOODFANATICS.COM without knowing it. equally, but being able to taste that each Ever make a Bloody Mary? Long before is in there,” he says. When a cocktail with bars started garnishing them with mini muddled jalapenos proved too spicy, for cheeseburgers and candied bacon, the example, he created a hot pepper tincture “Mary” was the original culinary cocktail that allowed other flavors to shine through. says Matthew Biancaniello, a Los Angeles- based cocktail chef and author of “Eat CONSIDER THE SOUS VIDE Your Drink,” (Dey Street Books, 2016) Sous-vide machines are pricey and may Culinary cocktails are an expansive not work for every bar program, but Dram category defined by the collaboration & Grain’s head bartenders use it for every between kitchen and bar, either in terms house-infused liqueur. Bixby recommends of ingredients, technique or both. These a cold maceration for fruit-based infusions, run the gamut from the lab-like creations but a sous-vide machine for herbs and at New York’s Apotheke to the super-fresh, tinctures. market-inspired drinks at Los Angeles’ five different things to do with that basil,” “You can cook it to temperatures that plate Hinoki & the Bird. Making culinary he says. Fall is a great time to stock up on alcohol would normally evaporate off, to cocktails work for your bar requires only flowering herbs like lavender or chamomile around 150 degrees, which allow for better creativity, access to fresh ingredients and and use them as infusions or garnishes. infusions,” he says. a willingness to experiment. Here’s how to bring a bit of the kitchen behind the stick. EMBRACE SAVORY REMEMBER CHEMISTRY Umami is often neglected in the cocktail Cooking is a chemical process that PICK YOUR CHEF’S BRAIN realm, but it can open up a host of exciting changes an ingredient’s flavor, texture At Dram & Grain in Washington, D.C., flavor possibilities. Consider fat-washing: and color. Before manipulating a raw head bartenders Benny Hurwitz and Andy the adding of fat (butter, animal fat or ingredient—caramelization, dehydration Bixby collaborate with the kitchen on an oil) to a spirit at room temperature and or charring—consider what you might gain ambitious cocktail menu that includes then freezing until the fat can easily be and lose from each choice. There are vast methods like dehydrating, vacuum sealing skimmed off the top. Dram & Grain created differences in flavor profiles between the and compressing. Find a chef who’s open an alligator fat and Cajun-spice-infused warm, oily properties of a cooked orange to working together, says Bixby, and mine Chartreuse for a cocktail that’s a riff on a and the bright citric zest of the fresh fruit. their technical expertise. classic called Swamp Water. It combines Chefs are a wealth of knowledge; they’ll alligator-butter-washed green Chartreuse MAKE IT PERSONAL remind you that cashews, for example, with Don Ciccio & Figli Carciofo and Food triggers memories; culinary are poisonous when raw. If you’re making pineapple, lime and tamarind juices in a tin cocktails should as well. When you’re an orgeat, they’ll suggest roasting the can garnished with a plastic alligator and looking for inspiration, think about meals nuts first. “Say, ‘Hey, this is my idea pineapple fronds. and experiences you’ve enjoyed: What about getting this flavor or texture into Bitters can also be an umami delivery flavors do they call to mind? How did those a drink. How would you go about that?’” vehicle: Bar Argos in Ithaca, New York, flavors interact? Dram & Grain’s hit Gator GLASS he says. “There’s nothing worse than has used mushrooms bitters in a Michter’s Wrestlin’ & Paddle-Backs cocktail is a liquid Culinary cocktails misunderstanding a technique or utilizing Sour Mash Whiskey-based cocktail that representation of a day the bartenders an ingredient wrong.” also includes Amaro Nonino and maple spent on a swamp boat watching alligator syrup; Dallas’ FT33 found a hit with a wrestling in the bayous of Louisiana while bring the kitchen THINK SEASONALLY drink called Truffle Pig that includes drinking chartreuse. Guests now expect bar offerings to vary DeLeon tequila, lemon juice, muddled “We asked, ‘How can we pull the concepts to the bar as often as the food menu, reflecting the mushrooms and honey, garnished with a and flavors and mentality of this place into a flavors and colors of the season. The first hen of the woods mushroom. drink?’” Bixby says. n BY KATE BERNOT place to turn is your local farmers market, Techniques from PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANK LAWLOR the kitchen go Biancaniello says, but don’t necessarily DON’T LOSE BALANCE Kate Bernot, who lives in Missoula, Mon- into this drink seek out the strangest fruit or herb. Flavors can quickly become tangled and tana, is beer editor at DRAFT Magazine. She with ume plums, “Take something that you love, even if it’s competitive with so many ingredients and also covers cocktails, cider, restaurants and, passionfruit and bone broth. something common like basil, and find techniques brought to bear on one drink. once, cigars.

FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 79 PEOPLE ALWAYS LOVED HOW THE MOZZARELLA ON BY THE NUMBERS Get more insights on snacks at FoodFanatics.com OUR MEATBALL SUB WOULD SO MELT IN THE ONE DAY AT PAN... ALEX TRIED COOKING HOW TO WIN SNACK ATTACKS HEN HOUSE ...AND Snacking is an American pastime that’s practiced throughout the day, giving restaurants plenty of opportunities RESTAURANT IN GET ALL THE MOZZ to feed the bottom line. Take a bite out of these figures to get started. UBER-COOL BROWN & ALL BY OAKLAND, CA TOASTY. ITSELF WHO’S GOT THE MUNCHIES? ALEX LOPEZ & THEN I CELESTE JUST PINCHED IT. COOPER AND I WAS LIKE, 82% 72% 59% 49% TURNED “HEY! I MADE ONE LITTLE A BOW!” Gen Zers Millennials Gen Xers Boomers EXPERIMENT who choose who choose who choose who choose INTO AN EPIC entree snacks* entree snacks entree snacks entree snacks CHEF HACK

TIMING IS AND I SAID, BIGGEST EVERYTHING “YEAH, LET’S JUST DO THAT DRAWS THE SS FOREVER 31% 2/3 HEN HOUSE NOW.” FRUIT A A SA CRISPY S 46% 26% 26% CHEESE BOW SALTY/CRUNCHY ICE CREAM IS NOW G AN OAKLAND IT’S S FOODS 45% INSTITUTION MORE FAMOUS THAN MOST Entree snacks eaten THE SUB WE PUT POPULAR SNACKS between 4 p.m.–7 p.m., IT ON. 42% the highest amount A 40% 37% 25% 23% Entree snacks eaten PIZZA CHEESE between 10 a.m.–1 p.m., SS the second highest AL 22% amount AND WE S 35% FRENCH FRIES OWE IT ALL TO REAL CALIFORNIA GAL DAIRY! LAS GOOD FOR YOU THE MOST Highest growth in snack choices IMPORTANT ATTRIBUTES

39% 35% 34% Use 18% 16% 14% 12% G S GALS SSS G AL AL L S

*An entree snack is a smaller portion of an entree. Source: Datassential SS LLG A 71% A AL SA ILLUSTRATION BY KANNY YEONG