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The Study on the Bottom Friction and the Breaking Coefficient for Typhoon

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The Study on the Bottom Friction and the Breaking Coefficient for Typhoon Acta Oceanol. Sin., 2015, Vol. 34, No. 3, P. 99–107 DOI: 10.1007/s13131-015-0637-4 http://www.hyxb.org.cn E-mail: [email protected] The study on the bottom friction and the breaking coefficient for typhoon waves in radial sand ridges–—the Lanshayang Channel as an example XU Zhuo1,3, ZHANG Wei1*, LU Peidong2, CHEN Kefeng2 1 College of Harbor, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China 2 River and Harbor Department, Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute, Nanjing 210029, China 3 The Development Office of Yangtze River in Tongzhou District, Nantong 226301, China Received 8 November 2013; accepted 8 October 2014 ©The Chinese Society of Oceanography and Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2015 Abstract Owing to the interactions among the complex terrain, bottom materials, and the complicate hydrodynam- ics, typhoon waves show special characteristics as big waves appeared at the high water level (HWL) and small waves emerged at low and middle water levels (LWL and MWL) in radial sand ridges (RSR). It is as- sumed that the mud damping, sandy bed friction and wave breaking effects have a great influence on the typhoon wave propagation in this area. Under the low wave energy, a mud layer will form and transport into the shallow area, thus the mud damping effects dominate at the LWL and the MWL. And high Collins coef- ficient (c around 1) can be applied to computing the damping effects at the LWL and the MWL. But under the high wave energy, the bottom sediment will be stirred and suspended, and then the damping effects disappear at the HWL. Thus the varying Collins coefficient with the water level method (VCWL) is imple- mented into the SWAN to model the typhoon wave process in the Lanshayang Channel (LSYC) of the RSR, the observed wave data under “Winnie” (“9711”) typhoon was used as validation. The results show that the typhoon wave in the RSR area is able to be simulated by the VCWL method concisely, and a constant wave breaking coefficient (γ) equaling 0.78 is better for the RSR where wide tidal flats and gentle bed slopes exist. Key words: typhoon wave, radial sand ridges, RSR, mud damping effects, varying Collins coefficient with the water level method, wave breaking coefficient Citation: Xu Zhuo, Zhang Wei, Lu Peidong, Chen Kefeng. 2015. The study on the bottom friction and the breaking coefficient for typhoon waves in radial sand ridges–—the Lanshayang Channel as an example. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 34(3): 99–107, doi: 10.1007/s13131-015-0637-4 1 Introduction is 70% less than the sandy area. The erosion and sedimentation induced by the typhoon Owing to strongly mud damping effects, the wave height wave gained the most interests in the engineering stability stud- on the mud coast is not large in the normal weather condition. ies for the radial sand ridges (RSR). And simulating the typhoon According to the observation on the mud coast of Korea (Kim, wave process is the first step to study the mechanism of the 2003), and in Brouage, Skeffling and Seine Estuaries of Europe ridges erosion and channel deposition in the RSR. In fact, due to (Le Hir et al., 2000), the wave height is small, the proportion of the interactions among the complex terrain, bottom materials, the significant wave height (Hs) and the water depth (h) is close wave, storm surge and tidal current, the typhoon wave process to 0.2 (Kim, 2003). The observed results are similar in the RSR. in the RSR is considerably complicate, and difficult to model, if Thus, the mud damping effects need more concentration when it is impossible. modeling the typhoon wave in this area. The bottom dominant materials in the RSR are very fine The mud layer changes under different wave energies. Gra- sand, silt and clay, and most in the shallow tidal flat are fine tiot et al. (2007) analyzed the long-term interactions between sand. Owing to the wave oscillation and wave energy varying, the wave energy and the bottom mud layer, and suggested the thickness, density and viscosity of the bottom mud layer during the low wave energy stage or the early stage of the high are prone to change, and then the mud damping effects are in- wave energy (Hs around 1.0 to 1.5 m), the bottom mud layer will duced and will have great impacts on the wave attenuate (Win- keep certain thickness, viscosity and mobility. But under the big terwerp et al., 2012). wave (Hs>2 m), the mud sediment will be incipient immediate- Compared with sand, mud sediments usually will signifi- ly, and the thickness of the mud layer will soon decrease. Similar cantly affect the wave energy dissipation. Sheremet et al. (2005) conclusion was provided by Elgar et al. (2006) who found that made synchronous wave processing observations at two sta- the incoming wave which wave height is nearly 1 m would be tions located at −5 m isobaths offshore in the Atchafalaya Bay. mostly dissipated on the mud coast. The results show that the observed wave height in the mud area Wave breaking is another important factor for the simu- Foundation Item: The National High Technology Research and Development Program (863 Program) of China under contract No. 2012AA112509; the National Natural Science Fundation of China under contract No. 41373112; the Open Research Foundation from the State Key Laboratory of Hydrology-Water Resources and Hydraulic Engineering, Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute under contract No. 2012491311. *Corresponding author, E-mail: [email protected] 100 XU Zhuo et al. Acta Oceanol. Sin., 2015, Vol. 34, No. 3, P. 99–107 lation. Lots of field surveys and flume research show that the there are West Taiyangsha, Huoxingsha and Dahonggengzi sand varying of the beach profile has directly impacted the wave ridges which divide the LSYC into three sub-channels. In the breaking; therefore the wave breaking coefficients can be from east, there are Taiyangsha and Hetunsha which divide the LSYC 0.60 to 1.59 in different bed slopes (Battjes and Stive, 1985; Ka- from the outer ocean. Thus, the wave diffraction and refraction minsky and Kraus, 1993). Especially, the wave breaking coeffi- are common in this area. cient at the positive bottom slope of the offshore bar is larger The bottom materials in the area deeper than −5 m (theoret- than the non-positive bottom slope. Thus, Battjes and Janssen ical base level) are very fine sand, silt and clay; but in the area (1978), Nelson (1997), Ruessink et al. (2003) and Goda (2004) shallower than −5 m, fine sand dominated (Fig. 2). Especially, in suggested empirical formulas respectively for the wave break- the area near the Huoxingsha, Dahonggengzi and West Taiyang- ing. Junwoo Choi and Yong (2011) applied different wave break- sha, the mud content of the bottom materials is larger than 30% ing coefficients at different parts of the offshore bar in the sim- in the depth between −5 and −10 m, and in a considerable area ulation aiming at reflecting the varying of the wave breaking the mud content is larger than 50%. effects under the terrain undulation. Owing to the interactions among the complex terrain, bot- But both the horizontal scale and the undulate terrain in tom materials, and hydrodynamics, the wave energy can be the RSR are obviously different as the offshore bar on the san- strongly dissipated during propagation along the LSYC. Thus, dy coast. There is not significant positive or non-positive bed in normal weather days, the wave is weak in the study area. Ac- slope in the RSR. Thus, the varying wave breaking coefficient cording the wave field survey from 1996 to 1997, in the north formula might not be suitable for this area, even complicate the of the West Taiyangsha (S4ADW, 32.548 3°N,121.412 5°E) (Fig. 2), problem. the emergent proportion of waves which the significant wave Besides the complex terrain, the bottom materials also affect height (Hs) is around 0.4 m and the mean wave period T is be- the wave breaking. On the Cassion beach, Brail, the wave break- tween 4.0 and 4.9 s is around 40%. ing was absent for continuously 14 months along 13 km mud Under “Winnie”, big waves emerged at the HWL, and small coastline until the storm wave comes (Hollan et al., 2009). It can waves appeared at the LWL and the MWL in the West Taiyangsha be inferred that it will not show obvious wave breaking on the area (Fig. 3). At August 18th 23:00, the wind speed was 23.4 m/s, mud coast except the high wave energy stage. The ratio of the the wind direction was ENE, and the maximum significant wave significant wave height to the water depth (Hs/h) observed by height was 4.2 m, the wave direction is NE. Although at August Kim (2003) increases to 0.7 in big wave days. 18th 08:00, the maximum wind speed arrived at 26.6 m/s, but at Feng (2003) computed the “Winnie” typhoon wave process the same time, the maximum significant wave height was only in the Lanshayang Channel (LYSC) by a combining refraction 0.8 m. Comparing these two time records, the wind speeds are and diffraction wave model; and the results at the LWL and close; but the water level is different, former is at the HWL, the MWL had good agreement with the field data. TIWTE (2005) latter is at the LWL. It can be inferred that the high wind speed is applied the SWAN to simulating the same typhoon wave in the only a necessary condition; the wave height may be closely re- same area based on the wind velocity and air pressure data pro- lated to the water level.
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