TOURIOSITY TRAVELMAG August - September I 2012 ` 50

Each forest has its own charisma, something very unique to itself. And this is not with respect only to its physical characteristics, but in terms of the very soul of it. The sounds, smells, whisper and the air of each forest is different. So is true for its residents. Unfortunately, the forest cover of the world is declining every day, thanks to technology advancements, urbanization, increased mining and agriculture. If mankind continues to be fascinated by modern technology to the extent that surrendering the future generations’ wellbeing becomes immaterial, it is not difficult to imagine that forests will vanish some day. Environmentalists today are increasingly concerned about the Climate change – the increase of Greenhouse gases in the atmosphere. Out of various reasons attributable to this deadly phenomenon, deforestation is one, and this, few of us know. In fact, a fifth of the greenhouses gases results from deforestation, more than that caused by automobile pollution all over the world. This sounds really scary. Many decades back, Mahatma Gandhi had said “What we are doing to the forests of the world is but a mirror reflection of what we are doing to ourselves and to one another.” Nobody could have possibly put this concern Rupanjana De, Editor in a better phrase. Those who have spent childhood or at least a major period of life in the vicinity of forests can tell you that forests are not gloomy or fear provoking. Rather it is the city that looks naked – ugly because shades of green are absent. Alarming to an equal extent is the continuous poaching of animals for monetary gains. The list of endangered animals over the years has been expanding. The 2012 Red List updated at Rio +20 Earth Summit lists 132 species of plants, birds and animals in India including the Asiatic lion, Indian elephant and Royal Bengal Tiger as endangered and a few more including leopards and black bucks as threatened. The eternal relation between humankind and trees need no introduction. Our ancestors have seen much more of them than us. From decades we have been constantly told that forests are to be conserved if we want to give the gift of a good future to our children. It is one of those important investments one would like to make for the coming generations. There has perhaps never been a time as important as the present. So, if any steps are to be taken, NOW is the time! We would like to hear from you. Share your thoughts with us at [email protected] Happy travelling!

Rupanjana

An appeal To ensure the safety of wild animals crossing roads close to forest reserve areas, we request our readers to ensure that they drive slow and take special care while passing by such roads, especially at night. To avoid the risk of devastating forest fires please make it a point not to carry combustibles during visit to forests. LET’S BE RESPONSIBLE TOURISTS. Contents

Masai Mara, Kenya Lake Nakuru 10 24 National Park, Kenya 18 Tanzania Safari

The Giants of 32 Kanha National Park My Trip to Goa From a mighty fort to a 40 tiger’s den - Bandhavgarh 46

Shades of Green and Wildness at Mudumalai Hitchhiking to the world’s 52 smallest Big City 58 Aarhus, Denmark

GUIDE TO THE MAG To make your reading through Touriosity Travelmag better, here’s presenting a quick glance at the various sections and features in the magazine.

Travelogue Globetrotter’s diary In this section we bring travel experiences This section explores the world of a globetrotter, of one of our readers from popular places whose passion is to travel, travel and travel more. around the world. It brings to readers unique facts and information from remote corners of the world.

Destination It introduces the readers to various destinations in India with an emphasis on at least one An Artist’s impression destination from each region. It provides in- A travelling artist makes it to faraway lands and depth information on the locations. In addition, brings memories in the form of impressive water there is also handy tourist information to help colour paintings. This section is a visual treat as our readers plan ahead of trips. well as interesting to read. Lake Nakuru Sustainable Forestry in Phone: 033-32613664 National Park, Kenya the light of Mobile: +919836511995 24 68 Rio+20 Conference Email: [email protected] Website: www.touriositytravel.com Snapshots 72 Editor Rupanjana De

Advisors Pratiti Moulik Dr. Paritosh Nandi

A date with Nature at Assistance Sonia Roy My Trip to Goa 76 Jaldapara National Park 46 The UNESCO World Design 82 Heritage Sundarban Raghunath Sharma Publisher & Printer Rupanjana De #E, B/6, Bapujinagar Kolkata – 700092

Printed at B. N. Process, 3B, Krittibas Mukhrjee Road Photo Feature Kolkata – 700067 Gir - The last home of 88 Asiatic lion Distributor 90 K. K. Puri News Distributors Pvt. Ltd. 9, Decares Lane, Kolkata – 700069 Ph – 033-2210-1136 Email - [email protected]

Cover Picture Photographer: Amartya Mukherjee Location: Bandhavgarh National Park

Photo feature Point of view In photo feature, we cover the theme of a Here we bring to our readers useful articles with particular issue in photographs from one of offbeat content. The idea is to give you the our readers. stimulus for thinking. It covers important issues that are in some way connected to travel and tourism. Memoirs of a backpacker A new adventure every time in an entirely new place across the globe by a solo female Snapshot backpacker. We follow the locals she meets, the This section is an ideal one for quick browsing. unusual things she comes across, the surprises she It provides interesting information from across gets and the problems she faces in her journeys the globe with a focus on the theme of the with a backpack across the world. issue. contributors’ profiles

Passionate about travelling, AMARTYA MUKHERJEE, a Kolkata based Chartered Accountant, has visited 25 countries across 4 continents. His travels have taken him on safaris to some of the wilderness areas of Eastern and Southern Africa. Also a keen photographer and travel writer, his articles and photographs have been published in many leading Indian English and Bengali publications. His photographs have been displayed in numerous solo and group exhibitions at various renown fora in Kolkata and published in leading magazines like BBC’s Lonely Planet and have also been featured in a Bengali TV Channel. Amartya Mukherjee

SAMIT BHATTACHARYA, 43, originally from Kolkata, now lives in Dubai, UAE. He started travelling young along with his parents. His career in software consulting has taken him to different countries and places of which Sydney remains his favourite. He loves nature and wildlife, and travels to historical places. His other interests include photography, movies, music and reading. A few of his photographs were published in “Gulfnews”. For the last 15 years, his wife has been his partner in many of in his travels and now his 9 year old daughter shares the same travel bug.

Samit Bhattacharya

JOAQUIN GONZALEZ DORAO, 50, Madrid, Spain, combines in his illustrated Travel Journals his passion for travel and his skills as a watercolour artist. He replaced his camera with a blank notebook and a box of watercolour. While exploring unknown lands, he fills its pages with landscapes, people, buildings and details. He has been to five continents and has authored and illustrated many books including “Travel Watercolors” (Greece, Australia, China, Croatia & Peru) published by Lonely Planet Publishers and “Ethiopia Travel Diary”. Joaquin has won many awards and held a number of exhibitions across the world. Joaquin Gonzalez Dorao

GRETE HOWARD, Bristol, UK, has travelled to 132 countries in 7 continents. She wonders at the traditions and way of life of other nations and is captivated by the beauty of little things. She makes a point of not judging other cultures by their actions, just because they are different to hers. She believes she has been lucky to be able to make seven trips abroad on an average every year for the last 21 years. She appreciates the opportunity travel has afforded her - to gain an insight into other people’s lives, to embrace the world with an open mind and tolerance.

Grete Howard

6 August - September I 2012

DEBABRATA BISWAS, Kolkata, is a member of the Indian Forest Service, 1981 batch and is presently holding the position of the Chief Conservator of Forest, Government of West Bengal. From 1998 to 2000, he was the Director of the Darjeeling Zoo which abodes high altitude endangered species like snow leopards and red panda. He has wide ranging experience in managing National parks and Sanctuaries.

Debabrata Biswas

VINOD KUMAR YADAV, Kolkata, is an officer from the Indian Forest Service with vast experience of working in the National Parks and Sanctuaries including those of Jaldapara, Chapramari, Gorumara and Neora valley in West Bengal. He has a passion for photography and has travelled across most of the wildlife areas of the country clicking photos of wildlife and their habitat.

Vinod Kumar Yadav

PRATITI MOULIK, Kolkata, loves travelling and gathering interesting experiences. A Practicing Company Secretary by profession, she loves music and making collages. Travelling gives her the treasure-trove of ‘stand and stare’ moments. It opens new windows of realization and deepens understanding. During travels she enjoys the moments of small discoveries of her 6 year old daughter as something new unfolds in front of her.

Pratiti Moulik

SARASIJ CHAKRABORTY is a Kolkata based photographer who specializes in wildlife photography. His passion for photography began in his early teens and later metamorphosed into a full time activity. His choice of subjects is quite unconventional; insect are his favourite. He loves traveling. His photographs have been published in a few magazines and displayed in various exhibitions.

Sarasij Chakraborty

Photo Contributors: Subhankar Mondal, Kolkata; Sanghamitra, Kolkata

7 readers’ opinion

For Rupanjana and her team

Passion for tourism generates from inherent human curiosity to know places and people, nature and culture, and to venture into the hitherto unknown. This thought must have prompted Rupanjana De to christen her travel magazine as TOURIOSITY, which she edits and publishes. I have had the privilege of going through the pages of the maiden issue of the magazine, between cover and cover, and wow, what a treasure-house of information and motivation it is! It speaks a lot about Rupanjana’s editorial and organizational skill. She could inspire and bind together a team of young comrades around her, devoted to the subject (the word ‘cause’ might be a bit high sounding!) and present to her readers a group of writers with awesome first-hand experience, and writing skill as well. From now on I shall Touriosity Travelmag remain ever curious about the Travelmag, that is, TOURIOSITY. June - July 2012 Touriously yours, Bibhash Chakraborty, Theatre Personality, Golf Green, Kolkata

To the Team of Touriosity, Greetings from Ahmedabad! It was very exciting to receive the copy of first issue of the Touriosity magazine. It has been an absolute pleasure to see the efforts made by your dynamic team to launch an exclusive travel magazine in state of West Bengal. I have enjoyed reading most of the articles of this issue. I would like to specially mention the beautiful sketches in the article “My trip to Kerala”, making it an awesome visual treat for the readers. I shall look forward to the forthcoming issues of Touriosity, I wish your entire team all the very best, keep up the good work. Regards, Parna Mukherjee, Law Faculty, Ahmedabad

I found this magazine extremely engaging. It helped me plan my next travel itinerary. It also gave me a firsthand sneak-peek into a traveler’s weather bitten knapsack. I thoroughly liked the piece on Matheran. It recreated a nice portrait of the tiniest hill station of India. I personally haven’t seen much review on this particular hill station so when I saw this mag containing a travel piece on Matheran I just knew I had to buy this book. My second like was – ‘My trip to Kerala’ by Joaquin Dorao. His sketches added a unique point to the travelogue. Sanghamitra’s ‘Coonoor’ was quite helpful for me as I could plan my Puja trip to the tea-garden. I was thoroughly amazed by the photographs of the ice hotel especially the ice hotel suite in the ‘Swedish Lapland’ piece. Overall, it’s a great source that provides an avid traveler with everything he or she needs to know about traveling; to all ends of the earth. This book is a really interesting and amazing one provoking curiosity about some great near and far tourist destinations. Great job, guys. Best–o-luck. Papri Chatterjee, Journalist, Kolkata

Touriosity Travelmag was in itself a complete informative package regarding travels across India as well as international destinations. The inaugural issue was quite interesting for a reader. I hope the forthcoming issues will also have such detailed articles. Dipankar Choudhury Private Sector Professional, Guwahati

8 August - September I 2012

I was absolutely delighted to come across your magazine at Oxford Bookstore. It has been an absolute pleasure going through the same. A good quality travel magazine (in English) from Kolkata was missing and your wonderful initiative has helped fill this important gap. I personally most enjoyed reading the ‘Beyond Limits’ article on the Karakorum Gender Equality Expedition. Apart from the exciting narrative and the accompanying pictures, what got me engrossed was the fact that this story was about a place in Pakistan that I really want to visit but, being an Indian, probably can’t, at least in the foreseeable future. A. Mukherjee, Chartered Accountant, Salt lake, Kolkata

Going through the pages of Touriosity Travelmag has been a fascinating experience specially for a travel freak like me. The title of the magazine itself generates curiosity to know about the unknown and see the unseen through the numerous lovely photographs. It has brought to us some articles of very interesting but hard to pronounce places a like Jukkasjärvi village of far away Sweden on one hand and again a well written feature of our very own Darjeeling mountain railway. It evokes interest and makes us look forward to the next issue of the mag. It is not only informative but also it urges us to plan for several destinations according to our budgets. Hope this passionate venture achieves success! Sunrita Ghosh, Teacher, Carmel High School and DD News Caster, Kolkata

The Touriosity Mag offers inspiring stories that takes you to the heart of adventure, tales from most beautiful places on our planet and articles full of stunning photography. A great read for those that want to relax, forget about the hustle of everyday life and immerse themselves in the world of exploration and adventure. Malgorzata Skowronska Poland

In the magazine ‘Touriosity Travelmag’, I enjoyed reading about the beautiful places through the different articles written by writers who shared their stories with us. I liked the concept of the first magazine in which it has tried to view mountain tourism from different angles and people who love to visit hill places. I liked the wonderful writing about the places by which I also came to know the beauty of different hill places from one corner of India to another including places abroad. Second issue should be published covering other tourist spot. The articles with photographs were attractive to me as a reader. But I think the magazine should be displayed in the shop so that people can come to know about the new publications and easily get a copy of their own. Nibedita Chakraborty, Student, Siliguri WB

9 Travelogue

MASAI MARA, KENYA Samit Bhattacharya, Dubai, UAE

Jambo Kenya The journey from Sharjah, UAE to Nairobi, Kenya on Air Arabia takes about 6 hours. As we approached landing, from high above, the earth looked green, the vegetation flat and smooth stretching all across the horizon. The sky was azure blue all around. Small hills bordered the horizon and dark clouds threw uneven patches on the ground. The pilot announced our descent into the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport at Nairobi and we fastened our seat belts. I was taking my family on a safari to Masai Mara, a long cherished dream of ours. Stories and images of the Masais in their red robes have been imbibed in my mind since long. Programmes on television channels only accentuated our anticipation and my 9 year old daughter was equally thrilled as me. We were setting our feet first time on Africa – on what is known as“the navel of the earth” – Kenya.

10 August - September I 2012

Stories and images of the Masais in their red robes have been imbibed in my mind since long. Programmes on television channels only accentuated our anticipation and my 9 year old Masai Mara Game reserve always used to daughter was equally thrilled invoke in my mind, scenes of animals wading across the Mara river with crocodiles snooping as me. We were setting our feet there, elephants grazing the grasslands, giraffes picking at tree leaves, zebras trotting across, first time on Africa – on what majestic lions lazing out in the open and the red-clothed Masais with the lone spear walking is known as “the navel of the through the Savannahs. It was our chance to earth” – Kenya. experience it all. Nairobi, the Capital Nairobi, the second largest city in Africa (after Cape Town), has a large Indian population which mostly controls the local business. Nairobi is a progressive city and on that particular day the city was hosting an international soccer match Placed on either side of the Mara river, Masai against Uruguay, their arch rival in football. Mara is the land of the Masais – one of the The stadium area was lively with supporters, oldest inhabiting tribes in the world. The Masais fans and hawkers thronging the streets. Karen 2 had warded off the advances of civilization Blixen Avenue, named after the Dutch author, 1 3 and development till the late eighties, but still is one of the up market areas of the city. She maintain an ultra-basic existential tribal lifestyle. is famous for her memoir on her life in Kenya 1. Mother and Baby Giraffe The forest reserves of Serengeti (Tanzania) titled ‘Out of Africa’ which was later made into and Masai Mara make up the largest wildlife a successful Hollywood film. This was the nicest 2. Lone Acacia Tree and the Savannahs population in the world and is a witness to the area of Nairobi we saw. Mostly it is a congested 3. A Masai woman singing “Great Migration” which happens from July to city and somehow looks a bit like Kolkata too. October each year. This is the best time to go to Hawkers thronged the market places; people Mara when the game population is the highest, crowded the sidewalks; groups at every corner and thus offer plenty of food for lions, cheetahs lazily discussed things known only to them. and leopards. None the less it was a lively city though a bit

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daunting with the large framed Africans all what we experience in March-April. The rains around you. We were booked at a hotel where started pouring heavily, as we waited in our the people were friendly, and we tasted some vehicle in front of the Reserve Entry Gates while Kenyan rice and chicken recipe which was nice. Lawrence got us the requisite permissions. We hit the bed early, inside mosquito nets in our hotel room with repellant creams splashed on all Nymbu Camp visible body parts. It was raining persistently now, and though the lush green grasslands started to look radiant the Lawrence, our Kenyan driver, picked us up at roads were muddy. We crossed a second river about 8 am in the morning from our hotel and through the Talek Bridge and entered the core we were ready and buzzing with enthusiasm. It area of the Mara reserve. The lodge we had was a Nissan 4X4 SUV with an open hood and booked had become inaccessible because of the two rows of seats at the back. We soon left the incessant rains by then as the Masai river had city on a black tarmac road taking us to Masai engorged to twice its size. So instead we were Mara. The drive took about 4 hours to the offered a stay at Nyumbu Camp. The camp Reserve gates. consisted of about 15 individual tents built After about half an hour from Nairobi we started around a central hospitality unit which served as seeing small animals, a few Thomson’s Gazelles the reception cum guest lounge and also had on the sides with an occasional Topi or a striped an adjacent dining hall for the guests. Nyumbu Zebra dotting the horizon. The vegetation was Camp is an open camp which means that there is light all around and Lawrence educated us about no fence to separate it from the wild open lands knew a few words of English and seemed very the different tribes that inhabited this region of and is thus guarded for 24 hours by a team of nice. Lawrence, our driver from Nairobi gave Kenya. Soon we stopped at the View Point, Masai guards. Nyumbu Camp and many others him company. where a few shops sold curios and artifacts and in the Mara Reserve run on solar power. offered a great view over the wide expanse. We It was late afternoon, the rains still a steady Game Drives relaxed there for 15 minutes, enjoyed the sight drizzle when we reached the camp and were The rains had stopped by then but it had already and sipped a cup of Kenyan coffee. welcomed warmly by the manager of the camp left large treacherous puddles of water in the Narok, the biggest town en-route to Masai who introduced us to the Masai staffs and muddy road and small streamlets seemed to Mara and the district headquarters was our explained the rules, regulations as well as the have emerged from everywhere. The vehicle next stop. We had a few minutes of respite here risks of staying in the camp. This basically meant seemed harder to control now and it started to at a local gas station. The road changes from that guests were prohibited to venture out of revolt and slip at every turn; Kantaai was having Narok onwards. It is broken and bumpy every the camp after sun down and would need to a tough time. Now the evening was slowly now and then, and you need to hold tight. be escorted by the guards for their dinner or giving way to darkness and the light drizzle was Animals became more frequently visible now. wherever and whenever required. After a strong still there, we saw a couple of elephants, eating It was hard to freeze them in my camera as cup of coffee and a recharging of our cameras, out from a few trees. I took out my camera to they scurried off with the sound of the vehicle. we were all ready to go out for our first game capture this magic moment, when without any Clouds gathered in the afternoon sky, and by viewing. Game viewing is the more politically warning, our Masai guide veered the car and the time we reached the gates of Masai Mara correct word used for shooting animals, albeit started to drive rapidly towards some trees out it had already started to drizzle. November and nowadays with cameras. We were now joined by in the open distance where a couple of other December are the season of the short rains, the Kantaai, a Masai warrior and guide who would SUVs were also speeding to. Soon we saw one period before the Kenyan summer, similar to drive our vehicle inside the reserve. Kantaai of the most memorable sights of the trip. Out

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We got our shocker soon. Kantaai rummaged the horizon with our binoculars and soon brought us within handshaking distance of a pride of 32 lions resting under a group of bushes and shrubs in order to get some respite from the harsh sun overhead. He rolled our SUV into the pride and then killed off its engine. Fully grown lions were looking at us directly, from all around, the closest being 5 feet from the vehicle. Fear gripped our throats. I forced myself to take out the SLR and take a few quick shots – all the while they might have been planning to fit me into their next menu. Though we were not allowed to speak and all communication was through sign language I almost felt like pleading Kantaai to take us away. The 10 minutes seemed like an eternity: we had held our breath tight, our brains had become a total blank, only thing that registered was what we saw in front of us. He assured us through hushed tones that the lions had enjoyed a kill a few hours ago and thus were in no mood to hunt immediately. We sincerely hoped so!!! in the open were three lions, one male and two Night brought us back to our camp. We had females courting each other. Kantaai ultimately dinner and were escorted by the Masai security 1 2 3 brought us to a stop about 50 meters from guards to our tents. There were the sounds of the the Maharaja of Africa. Hypnotized, we saw adjoining stream, reaching us over the silence of the three animals lazily nuzzling against each the forest and the occasional tweet, growl and 4 5 6 other and looking disdainfully at the sight of the roars of the inhabitants of the Reserve. It was vehicles standing around them in a semi circle. cold in the night, we went under our blankets. Cameras were everywhere and snaps came out Though we were dog tired, the thought of laying 1. Road to Masai Mara at random. My daughter was speechless with joy out in the open forest with animals all around 2. African Buffalo and so were we. and nothing separating us from each other, kept 3. Open tent at Nyumbu all of us from dozing off immediately. The sky Later in the hour we saw elephants, more than was clear, the moon was a bright slice in the sky, 4. A Pack of Hyenas a dozen, babies and their mothers and Kantaai and the footsteps of our Masai guards could 5. Maharaja of Africa rolled us into the middle of them. With the be heard amidst the rustling of leaves and the approaching darkness and the paucity of light, 6. The Cheetah scouting the Horizon movement of nocturnal inhabitants around us. the photographs did not do justice to the dreamy sequence that we were in; surrounded all around Morning tea was at 7. The sight of zebras, a by the herd of elephants, busy ripping the fleshy couple of giraffes and a herd of gazelle drinking leaves out of the branches, their grunts, snorts water from the adjoining stream greeted us. and cries resonating in the heavy air smelling of Birds happily chirped and squirrels hastily crossed grass, trees, wild berries and rain. the narrow paths. After a hurried breakfast we

13 Travelogue

The Preparation: Some preparations are needed for Mara or Kenya for the Indian traveler. Anti-malarial tablets should start at least a fortnight before travelling. Though the last reported yellow fever case in Kenya was in 1998, yellow fever vaccine is still needed for Indians and has to be administered minimum ten days in advance. The Yellow fever vaccine protects you for 10 years and the immunization card needs to be brought along for entry into Kenya and re-entry to India. Visa for Indians are at USD 50 per head and is “On Arrival”. The visa process takes about half an hour and is mostly hassle free. The airport has currency exchange counters and a couple of fast food joints towards the exit gates.

Shopping Tips: You can bargain heavily if you want to buy items from the sellers in any of the shops. The currency here is Kenyan Shillings (1 USD is equivalent to 96 Kenyan Shillings).

started on our game drive. We shot a host of came and stood in the shadow of our vehicle to Here we were welcomed with a series of animals all through the day including giraffe and rest a while, blood dripping from its jaws. traditional Masai dances, by the animated males elephant families, the famed wildebeest, a pack with whom we joyfully participated. The rustic of hyenas devouring a carcass, an ostrich family Masai Village and ethnic tunes of their music really carried with 11 young ones flanking their mother and No trip of Masai Mara is complete without a visit us away. Kaai, one of the more literate and running on a trot, zebras dancing and stomping to a Masai Village. So the day followed with a English speaking Masais explained their culture, away from our vehicle, warthogs from a distance, fantastic experience at one. I paid 40 USD for tradition and society to us. Each Masai village a fully grown African buffalo, Oryx and lots of our family. What one should remember while was built within a semicircular boundary made Topis standing far and near to the muddy roads. trying to negotiate a price with the Masais is of dried branches, shrubs and leaves rolled into The other special sight was when a cheetah, that all of the money collected by the different ropes and strengthened with dung. Every family satisfied after munching on a baby gazelle for Masai villages goes to the support of their local within the village had a separate entrance while breakfast, while the mother gazelle looked on, schools. the central pen was shared. The Masais believe in

14 August - September I 2012

Their staple food is cattle meat. Fresh cattle blood collected in a hardened gourd flask is a welcome drink for guests. The cattle were bled from their neck and then the wound immediately sealed with herbs to keep them fit. male Polygamy and female multiple marriages. For the Masais, even till the seventies, lion Each one of them marries based on his wealth, hunting was an active sport for the males. It is hunting prowess and physical appearance. Their said that even the African lion is afraid of a red staple food is cattle meat. Fresh cattle blood clothed Masai warrior with his spear. The Masais collected in a hardened gourd flask is a welcome use only red, as a symbol of blood and life. Now, drink for guests. The cattle were bled from their modernization has slowly trickled in and the 1 2 3 neck and then the wound immediately sealed Masai culture is also slowly melting towards a more civilized existence. with herbs to keep them fit. 5 The female dance followed. Young mothers 4 The Masais jump for the occasion. With a series with shaven heads to reduce perspiration and of dance numbers, the Masais praise the gods, older women with huge earrings which tripled nature and the forests of Savannahs. They also their ear lobes permanently, lined up for a quick 1. Giraffes and more Giraffes everywhere have a dance number to woo and court their song and dance program. But sadly we did not 2. Beautiful Masai Chieftains wife women. And during this they jump and sprint find that enthusiasm in them as we found in 3. Enjoying a joke with the Masais to show their physical prowess and their skill in the young males before. Once over, we were 4. Masai Warrior Jump hunting lions and protecting their mate from invited inside a Masai hut. It was dark and danger. We were spectators as well as happy utterly smoky with one single window providing 5. Masai Women in their Village participants too. ventilation and the entrance door on the other

15 Travelogue

at us, at our vehicle and stopped for about half a minute. Then slowly it went on his own trail, crossing the vehicle path from left to right till he vanished into the bushes. With the lion moving out of sight, life returned back to the gazelles and the smaller animals around them. We later heard from Kantaai that the young lion had crossed the threshold age now and walked away from the pride, in the process of creating his own family. He was trying to find a new den for himself, mark his territory and then find a mate. Well, surely some work to do!! A Short Detour Heading back to our camp we drove to a neighbouring Masai school. We met the Vice Principal and he spoke about the students, their side providing access. They asked us to rest a backgrounds, the school, about the teachers while and offered us food (beans prepared in and also about the grants and aids that ran some dark red syrup which we avoided). Later the school. The Principal’s office was decorated they prepared a makeshift venue for peddling nicely with charts and graphs illustrating the their handicrafts. The Masai women organised school’s progress. My wife, herself a teacher, handmade goods on tables made up of dried was interested to join a class. So my wife, leaves and cow dung. Strings, beads, amulets, daughter and I participated in a knowledge statues, trinkets, masks and small decorative exchange session with the students of grade items were hawked to us and we bought a 5. The children were excited to see us and we few. answered questions about our families, where Ultimately after an hour of some wonderful we came from, how we reached, how our time with the one of the oldest surviving tribes modern life was, our practices and customs, in the world, we took our leave, were happy and how the schools in our country were, what contended, amidst a lot of hugging and hand they studied in their school and so on. It was a waving. thrilling and enriching experience. Later we met a few of their teachers too. The third morning we went in search of hippos. Hippos do not live in any kind of shelter but Kwaheri Mara!! rather spend their time bathing in lakes and This marked the end of our Mara trip. On our rivers. Ultimately after about half an hour of 1 way back we checked in the local grocery store, hunting up their usual resting zones, we found bought a few necessities, went back to the camp them in a shady meander of a brook. A herd of to pack our bags and had a light lunch. We bade about twenty, half immersed in the water, were goodbye to Kantaai who drove us to one end of 2 enjoying a long muddy bath. From the other the wildlife Reserve, and then Lawrence took side came a rushing baby hippo with the mother over. We crossed the Reserve gates where they covering behind. In no time they joined the 1. A Pensive Lioness took note of our departure. Herds of gazelles whole herd, and all were merrily nudging each and zebras looked at us with sad eyes, as did the 2. Cheetah enjoying a Kill other up every few seconds with a reverberating occasional giraffes and elephants as we bade call. adieu to Masai Mara. The star attraction for day three was one young What still remains bright in my mind is the lion out in the open all by himself. The majestic spectacle of a Masai warrior, with his sinewy super-cat of the Savannahs was trotting towards upright frame, scalp-cropped curly hair and dark us with all grace and authority. We saw a herd ebony skin, draped in his red cloth standing of Thomson’s gazelle just freeze at the sight of guard, erect, with spear in his hand and the lush the lion. Kantaai stopped our SUV about 30 savannahs in the background. Thanks Mara, as metres from its path and turned off the ignition. it is fondly called, you will always remain special None of us even uttered a word. The lion stared in our hearts.

16

Globetrotter’s Diary

TANZANIA SAFARI Grete Howard, Bristol, United Kingdom

We arrived at the mobile camp just as the sun was setting, and were greeted by the manager with a cold drink and a warm, wet flannel. The latter was very welcome, as it had been a long, hot dusty drive from Lake Manyara, mostly in an open vehicle. Mobile camps, as the name suggests, are moved from place to place each season, according to where the concentration of game happens to be. Everything is brought in at the start of the season: 10 – 12 large, comfortable two-person tents complete with beds, furniture, solar heated bucket showers and a compostable toilet. The dining tent is the focal point of the evening, where delicious meals are served and new friends are made. At the end of the season, everything is

18 August - September I 2012

The dining tent is the focal point of the evening, where delicious meals are served and new friends are made. At the end of the season, everything is taken out again, and not a sign can be seen of the camp, in keeping with ecological and environmental intentions.

dinner drinks, or a necessity to keep warm, it also helped to keep wild animals away. There were no fences around the camp and the animals were free to wander through the camp at will. And they did. Sometime in the taken out again, and not a sign can be seen night I was awakened by the patter of not- 2 of the camp, in keeping with ecological and so-tiny, and I woke my husband up to try and 1 environmental intentions. determine what it was. We decided that it 3 came from further along the camp; the sound After settling in to what was going to be our got louder and louder until the animal was 1. Jungle safari home for the next two nights, we joined the just outside the tent. Not daring to move in 2. African sunset other guests around the camp fire, sharing case we made any sound that could scare stories of animal encounters and other the animal, we were painfully aware that 3. A Lioness travel stories. Once the sun went down, the only a thin piece of canvas separated us and temperature quickly dropped in the park, but a potentially dangerous wild animal. What the bonfire was not just a focal point for pre- followed could only be described as slurping

19 Globetrotter’s Diary

noises, as the animal was drinking the water starting their long day of hunting, sleeping arrival of a pride of lions. A small pack of in our bucket shower. There were at least and mating. Within a few hundred yards of jackals joined the party, along with a herd of three of them, and they seemed to spend an our camp, we came across our first big cat zebra. We still hadn’t even travelled half a eternity filling their bellies with clean water – a lone cheetah looking for her first meal kilometer from the camp! before sloping off back into the jungle. The of the day. Judging by the direction she was A safari in Tanzania is more than just ticking next day the rangers told us a pack of hyenas walking, she must have passed pretty near to animals off a list, although I have to confess had passed through the camp in the night. our tent while we were having breakfast. that I am rather partial to lists, and kept a Grabbing a quick breakfast, we headed out Our next spot was a group of hyenas (I tally of all the animals we saw during our for a day of game viewing before sunrise wonder if these were the same ones that visit to Serengeti. The Serengeti is one of the to make the best out of the early morning passed by our tent in the night?) half- finest and largest safari parks in Africa – the when the animals were most active. As the heartedly stalking out some buffalo. Having name comes from the local Masai language, sun broke over the horizon, the life on the managed to spook the much larger buffalo, and means ‘endless plains’. The topography plains came alive with the various animals the hyenas themselves were spooked by the varies enormously from thick bush to vast

20 August - September I 2012

open savannah and you can drive for hours camp at night. You are not allowed to walk in every direction. around the camp on your own after dark, 1 2 3 4 not even along the path from the tent to the After two nights in the mobile camp, we restaurant, so when I got up in the early hours moved on to another location for our third 5 6 7 8 to use the bathroom, I was not surprised to night in the park, this time in a permanent see three elephants outside our tent. tented camp. The accommodation consisted 1. Lions by the waterside of large tents on raised wooden platforms, Sometime later, while it was still dark outside, 2. A leopard relaxing on a tree with verandahs overlooking the dried-out I woke to an almighty commotion right 3. Viewing the elephants from the safari vehicle riverbed, where elephants, giraffes and zebra by the tent. Despite peering out through 4. African lioness chasing Zebras were seen trying to eke out some precious the windows of the tent, and even risking 5. Tarangire River Resort water from the underground springs. We popping out onto the verandah, I still could 6. A pack of hyenas stalking buffalos had been warned by the security guard that not see what was going on. The noise went 7. Local Masai women with their herd herds of elephants often travel through the on for a further few minutes before it finally 8. A herd of elephants

21 Globetrotter’s Diary

Like any safari experience, there were no guarantee as to what we might be able to see; it was all a matter of luck on the day. However, our luck included hyenas, jackals, wild cats and bush babies.

died down. In the morning we were told that a leopard was chasing a dik dik through the camp, and the poor deer was seeking refuge under our tent! A new day dawned and we set off in search of more adventures. One does not have to wait long or travel far here for excitement to come one’s way. Three young female lions had spotted a herd of zebra, and one of them decided to try her luck for lunch. Using the tall grass for camouflage, she stalked the unsuspecting zebras that were grazing by a waterhole. One could see all her muscles tensing as she made a huge leap out of her hiding place, and set off in pursuit of the now fleeing zebras. Unfortunately her hunting skills still required some honing, and the zebras all got away, leaving the lionesses hungry. One has to leave the park before night fall, and as we were staying just outside the park gates, park, explaining the nuances of wildlife and we were able to arrange a night time safari. 1 Searching for animals in the dark, armed with their habitats, such as the fact that the dik diks a powerful torch, was a completely different are fiercely territorial, and they always defecate experience, and offered us the opportunity to in the same place to mark their territory. 2 spot those nocturnal creatures that are too shy I will never tire of safaris, and if I could afford to show up during daylight hours. Knowing it, I would go every year. Each day is different; 1. Camp Fire that the animals could see you, but you may each day brings something new. The big five 2. Taking a break not possibly see them, was quite an unnerving are at the top of everyone’s list – and we were feeling. Like any safari experience, there were lucky enough to be able to tick off sixty five no guarantee as to what we might be able lions, five rhinos, numerous elephants, six to see; it was all a matter of luck on the day. leopards and countless buffalos. But to me, However, our luck included hyenas, jackals, wild a safari is so much more than just seeing the cats and bush babies. various species; it is the interaction between Also outside the park, we took a ranger for the animals, seeing them in their own habitat a walking safari – again a rather different and the intimate privilege of being part of all experience to the more common game drives. that. All animals, big and small, four legs, two Armed just in case, the rangers took us on a legs or wings, are important in this universe discovery walk of the little delights of the safari and we should never forget that.

22

Travelogue

Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya Amartya Mukherjee, Kolkata

Although I am not particularly religious, the sighting gods had been extremely kind during our stay in the Masai Mara, the crown jewel of Kenya’s wildlife sanctuaries, and we had been blessed with a plethora of views of the iconic African mammals including lion, leopard, elephant, cape buffalo, cheetah, giraffe, hippo, zebra and spotted hyena apart from a variety of antelopes like the Thomson’s gazelle, impala, topi and wildebeest. The rhinoceros, member of the much hyped ‘Big 5’, however, had remained elusive despite the best efforts of Joseph Djao, our friendly driver-guide. Djao had promised me that in the compact Lake Nakuru National Park, a UNESCO designated world heritage site located almost on the equator, I would get to see the two-horned African cousin of the Indian rhino, but perhaps he was just trying to keep me charged up. After the long drive to Nakuru, we were scheduled to have an early lunch at our hotel, which was situated inside the National Park, and set off on the game drive immediately thereafter. But we didn’t even have to wait till our scheduled drive to spot our first two-horned giant. Hardly

24 August - September I 2012

Lake Nakuru is one of the shallow, alkaline, soda lakes in the Great Rift Valley and is home to incredible congregations of hundreds of thousands of flamingos on the lake- shores, a phenomenon that has been sometimes dubbed as the ‘greatest ornithological spectacle on earth’. Tourists are permitted to disembark from their vehicles next to the shores of Lake Nakuru to better appreciate this enchanting bird lover’s paradise.

Though herbivorous, rhinos are not to be I gazed in wonder at the continually trifled with as they sometimes charge without shifting feathery mass of pink lining apparent reason since their eyesight is poor. They mostly rely on their excellent sense of the shores of the scenic lake as far smell and hearing. as the eye could see. This world- Djao explained that the species’ name i.e. famous spectacle is created by the ‘white’ rhino is a bit of a mistranslation from the innumerable greater and lesser Dutch word ‘weit’ meaning wide, a reference to their wide, square muzzle that is adapted flamingos standing in the waters of for grazing. The relatively smaller sized ‘black’ Lake Nakuru in mind-bogglingly vast rhino, on the other hand, is a browser and was so named to distinguish it from the ‘white’ numbers. Most birds and animals variant. Both these species have two horns find the intensely alkaline waters and generally have a grey colour with the exact shade depending on the terrain where they of Nakuru to be inhospitable but have been wallowing. flamingos, by virtue of evolutionary Rhinos have been relentlessly hunted and super-specialisation, are capable of ruthlessly poached to the point of near profiting from these waters by sieving extinction in the past century but with the had we entered the fenced premises of the help of concerted conservation initiatives them through their horny beaks for National Park when we came upon a female across Africa, including at Lake Nakuru, they white rhinoceros with her calf grazing on the the teeming algae that constitutes are taking slow and uncertain steps towards a grass barely 15 metres from the road. Such gradual recovery. Thanks to these dedicated the major part of their diet. is the enigma of the wild that our minds and transnational conservation attempts, it is bodies became instantly rejuvenated and our now estimated that there are over 20,000 eyes, wearied from travel till moments before, white rhinos and nearly 5,000 black rhinos in became peeled in alert anticipation of the Africa. bounties of nature awaiting us. 2 Unfortunately many people in Asia still believe 1 The rhino is the biggest land mammal after the ground-up rhino horn will cure all sorts elephant and to be able to see this primitive- of ailments, even though it is made from looking, two-horned, endangered giant, the same material as hair and nail. Some 1. The lakeshore populated with flamingos, pelicans and storks nonchalantly grazing from close quarters, was Kenyan rangers, however, are now cautiously a rare privilege for us. I had seen the rhinoceros optimistic that the easy availability of ‘Viagra’ 2. Yellow billed storks unicornis back home but this was the first time will hopefully arrest the traditional demand I was viewing its African counterpart. Djao for rhinoceros horn as aphrodisiac in the Far explained that the close relationship between a East! Though the demand for rhino horn as a female and her calf lasts for two to four years. medicine has shown signs of decline in China

25 Travelogue

The flamingo’s characteristic pink colouring is caused by the carotene pigment that is present in their diet through the algae. A salt-tolerant species of the tilapia fish also survives in the waters of Nakuru, having been introduced over four decades ago to combat mosquito breeding. The presence of fish and flamingos attracts a host of other birds including fish eating birds, raptors and scavengers like cormorants, egrets, pelicans, fish eagles, marabou storks and sacred ibises. The teeming bird life, impressive in their diversity and numbers, attracts tourists from all over the world. Next to the flamingos, the most abundant specie I noted was the pelican, a big, gregarious bird with an enormous bill that flocks together in large numbers.

and Yemen has significantly succeeded in feeding on crumbs of bread scattered around 1 2 restricting the use of rhino horn in ceremonial the bird feed, which was located right next to 5 dagger-handles, the latest threat to these the hotel’s glass-walled restaurant. From what animals emanates from Vietnam, the biggest I saw, starlings were the most common and 3 4 market for rhino horns today. Ever since the daring visitors. The next hour was pure bird last Javan rhino in Vietnam was killed a few watching bliss and photographically rewarding 1. Pelicans at the lakeshore years back, the value of rhino horn has kept as I patiently clicked the small birds using my 2. White rhinos increasing and is rumoured to rival the price of wife’s head as a makeshift tripod! Later, the gold in the black market. in-house wildlife guide helped us identify the 3. White-browed robin-chat feeding on scattered breadcrumbs After observing the rhinos for some time we birds – greater and lesser blue-eared starlings, superb starling, speckled mouse-bird, arrow- 4. Lake Nakuru – visually delightful drove towards our hotel, the Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge, and were welcomed by a herd marked babbler, white-browed robin-chat, red- 5. Endangered Rothschild giraffe, easily cheeked cordon-bleu, laughing dove, Speke’s distinguishable due to its white, of waterbucks near the hotel’s entrance. These knee-length ‘stockings’ large antelopes are quite plentiful in Nakuru weaver, golden palm weaver, Reichenow’s and I first spotted the defassa waterbuck weaver, rufous sparrow, common bulbul and which has light, wide patches on either side white-eyed slaty flycatcher. of the rump instead of the conspicuous white Our appetites were whetted by the rhinos and circle present in the common waterbuck. the birds that we had already sighted and I The Sarova Lion Hill is a haven for bird life and was really looking forward towards our game attracts several dozens of the 400 plus species drive. The varied topography of the Lake of feathered inhabitants of this national park. Nakuru National Park, spread across nearly I was, in turn, attracted by the birds that were 200 sq kms and situated at an altitude of

26 August - September I 2012

four to six thousand feet, consists of the lake, driver pulled across to one side and told us its gaping mouth in a ghastly grin. One could grasslands, woodlands and rocky ridges and to look to our left. A pride of five lionesses barely begin to imagine the ferocity of the life- this ecological diversity helps sustain a rich were resting at the edge of the woods, right and-death struggle that would have brought variety of wildlife that I was hoping to observe at the end of the grassland. I was simply awe- down this heavily-horned adult buffalo. The and photograph. struck to be able to view Africa’s most feared hyenas are the undertakers of the African With Djao at the wheel we set off on an predators languidly laze and stretch at the end wilderness and in time they would probably undulating road that took us from our hilltop of the meadow with nothing but a stretch polish off even the bones and the hide and hotel down to the lake shore. On the way we of savannah separating us. Through my leave just a few remaining scraps for the spotted various antelopes like Grant’s gazelle, binoculars I could clearly discern the animals’ vultures and storks. The grim law of the jungle Thomson’s gazelle and waterbucks as well as well-fed appearance and after proceeding a is inviolate - the death of one animal is the the strange looking long-tailed widow bird. bit further we came across their kill. source of sustenance for others. Its black tail was so disproportionately long The grisly buffalo carcass presented one of Scarcely a few hundred metres further down that a casual observer could be forgiven for the most haunting sights I have ever seen. the road we came across a crash of white thinking that there was a snake right behind The hide on its face, neck, back and legs rhinos foraging on one side of the road while the bird! seemed almost untouched. The lions had a herd of massive mud-caked cape buffaloes They say surprise is the key to pleasure during started eating it from the underside and had grazed on the other side. On our left, three a wildlife safari and the truth of the saying devoured the entire meat so comprehensively rhinos appeared to be aggressively protective was borne out for us at Lake Nakuru. We had that nothing but the rib cage had been left of their turf with two of the relatively smaller emerged from the woods and were driving untouched. The dead animal seemed to be animals forming a formidable coalition to through a large grassy plain, making our way staring directly at us in a macabre manner discourage the other rhino, a behemoth of to the lakeshore to keep our alluring tryst through the hollow sockets of its unseeing colossal proportions, from coming too close. with the flamingos when all of a sudden our eyes and its lower teeth were protruding from Immediately to our right I could hear the

27 Travelogue

buffaloes chomping the grass and observe the nauseous repulsion at seeing such a gory act 1 2 scary horns of the males, which broadened of untamed nature on the other. We stayed at into huge impenetrable shield across their the shores watching the birds for around half forehead. Our vehicle was parked right in an hour before getting back into our vehicle 3 4 between this mega fauna and I was palpably to continue the game drive. aware that both the species were easily The sheer density of white rhinos in Lake capable of inflicting considerable damage to Nakuru National Park continued to pleasantly 1. Birds around the lodge our van and its occupants! Luckily the giant surprise us as we encountered these grazers were more interested in the lush green 2. A pride of five lionesses resting at the heavyweights at close quarters on two more edge of the woods grass and we had a fascinating time watching occasions within the next hour. We missed out 3. An ornithological spectacle them from almost hand shaking distance, on their more reclusive relative as black rhinos with the lake and the hills forming a picture 4. A five feet tall marabou stork eating a tend to range in thicker brush for their browse. smaller bird and an ibis waiting for the postcard background. We spotted the endangered Rothschild leftovers We witnessed the disturbing but very natural giraffe, which is easily distinguishable from spectacle of a huge, five feet tall marabou the more abundant Maasai giraffe by virtue stork, arguably the ugliest bird in Africa, eating of having white, knee-length ‘stockings’ on its a smaller bird, while an ibis hung around for legs whereas the spots of the Maasai giraffe the leftovers. A cocktail of conflicting emotions cover its entire legs. We also came across a ran through me – the raw excitement of a black-backed jackal and small herds of zebras, nature photographer having a ringside view accompanied by ox-peckers. Ox-peckers are of the event on the one hand, and an almost faithful companions of several large herbivores

28

Travelogue

like buffalo, rhino, zebra etc. as they share a patchily overcast sky. From this spectacular symbiotic relationship – the birds get to eat the vantage point one could easily make out the Mother Nature has conspired in ticks on the animal’s body and the animals get car tracks criss-crossing the grassland and the a visually delightful manner to an early alarm system. In fact, the ox-pecker lakeshore. is known in Swahili as ‘askari wa kifaru’, the As the name suggests, Baboon Cliff is extremely rhino’s guard. make Lake Nakuru one of the popular with baboons. We came across a troop best and prettiest sanctuaries in We drove on further, skirting around the of baboons who, with their dog-like muzzles, lake’s perimeter, towards Baboon Cliff, the close-set eyes and peculiarly protruding pads Africa and from the top of the best vantage point for enjoying panoramic on their buttocks, will certainly not be serious views of the lake and its surrounding environs. contenders in any beauty contest. One has, cliff we watched the lush deep- Mother Nature has conspired in a visually however, got to be careful with these crafty and delightful manner to make Lake Nakuru one opportunistic omnivores. With their two inch green forests that cover the lower of the best and prettiest sanctuaries in Africa canines baboons have been known to chase and from the top of the cliff we watched the off, and occasionally even kill, predators like slopes of the hills merge into the lush deep-green forests that cover the lower the leopard. Though these adaptable primates slopes of the hills merge into the light-green normally eat grass and berries they sometimes light-green grasslands, which in grasslands, which in turn coalesce into the hunt smaller animals like hares, birds and small whitish-greyish-brownish lakeshore. A sea of antelopes. turn coalesce into the whitish- pink flamingos was lapping along the shores of the lake. On the far side of Lake Nakuru the Having drunk on the dramatic views of Lake greyish-brownish lakeshore. hills formed a natural boundary, rolling back Nakuru to our hearts content, we drove down into a blue horizon till they merged into the the cliff to the lakeshore and on the way came

30 August - September I 2012

This cultural experience proved to be a wonderful icing on our cake as it provided us with a fleeting but memorable glimpse into the complex and colourful Kenyan tribal traditions.

across more buffaloes and a fish eagle. This into the complex and colourful Kenyan tribal part of the lakeshore was similarly populated traditions. Though there were many peppy 2 3 with the denizens of the feathered world performances, one of the lilting Swahili 1 with enormous flocks of fuchsia pink lesser tunes called ‘Jambo Bwana’ (Hello Sir) was 4 5 flamingos and yellow billed pelicans being the particularly catchy and it still rings in my ears. most visible. We also noticed a pink-backed During this number my wife, Koel, was invited pelican, a couple of yellow billed storks and a to join the performers to shake a leg and she 1. Pelican, a big, gregarious bird with an enormous bill flocking in large spotted hyena. did it with élan, though the dance style was numbers quite a bit different from the Kathak that she As we took the winding road back to the hotel 2. Aggressive male baboon is trained in! Thereafter we had a delicious through the fading daylight we met with a 3. A herd of massive mud-caked cape roadblock. A family of baboons was sitting buffet dinner, which included the delectable buffaloes grazing on the road engaged in mutual grooming, a local delicacy, fried tilapia – surely no stranger 4. Gazelles in Lake Nakuru National Park key way of forming bonds as well as keeping to the Bengali palate! 5. Traditional Kenyan music and dance themselves clean and free from external Later in the night, as we sat under the parasites. whispering treetops staring at the starry By evening the temperature had dropped Kenyan sky we felt spellbound by the web of a few notches and we wore our jackets to ineffable joy that the munificence of nature the open-air cultural show organised by our had woven throughout this magical day. A hotel. This cultural experience proved to be deep sense of contentment enveloped us, a wonderful icing on our cake as it provided almost as if we were in total accord with the us with a fleeting but memorable glimpse very soul of Africa.

31 DESTINATION CENTRAL INDIA The Giants of Kanha National Park Debabrata Biswas, Kolkata

My saga with the wild began at my joining the Forest Service in the year 1981. Though I travelled along most of the national parks and sanctuaries across India during training and post training period, I never came across tigers anywhere. However, I had seen them in ex-situ, as all do. I never had the opportunity to embrace the sight of the amazing beauty amidst its natural habitat. The opportunity knocked later when I expressed my desire to my batch-mate in the service, the then Field Director of Kanha National Park, who invited me over there. It was in the year 2005. Along with the then Chief Conservator of forests and a wildlife enthusiast, I boarded the train to Jabalpur in the month of March. After an overnight journey, we reached the destination in the afternoon. Our host had come to Jabalpur all the way from Kanha National Park to

32 August - September I 2012

MP Tourism

We drove to the place where the remnants of the palace of a king of the Kanha kingdom stood, with its head held high. As we moved a few metres from the log hut, we were informed about the pugmark of a large wild felis with drops of blood traversed along the same way up to the dilapidated palace.

Subhankar Mondal MP Tourism receive us and take us to the Forest Guest sighting of a tiger and a tigress drinking water House situated in the centre of the city. Next at the Mukki Talab. We saw them from a close morning, after a short visit to the Marble rock quarter and on the next day, we came across along Narmada River, we proceeded towards the same pair, while this time we were on 2 the National Park. It was a few hours’ journey. elephant back. It felt as if life’s ambition was 1 We were served with sumptuous lunch. In the fulfilled! I framed the same in a camera. We 3 afternoon, the Field Director accompanied returned after sunset when darkness sprawled us to a log hut inside the arena of the Camp over in the Park. 1. Sambar Deer at Kanha office of the Directorate in the core area. The next morning, along with Forest officials, 2. Deep inside the forest At dusk, we went out in an open jeep with we drove to the place where the remnants of 3. Indian Wild Ox or Gaur a guide. To our delight, immediately on our the palace of a king of the Kanha kingdom entry into the Park, we were greeted with the stood, with its head held high. As we moved

33 DESTINATION CENTRAL INDIA

Subhankar Mondal MP Tourism

a few metres from the log hut, we were fading daylight, I had given up the hope of informed about the pugmark of a large wild photographing the tigress and thus, began All of a sudden, there was felis with drops of blood traversed along the packing my equipments. As the vehicle rolled same way up to the dilapidated palace. We up again, passing by a mysterious scenario an alarm call. The whole got off the jeep, and slowly walked towards against the backdrop of a reddish-yellow area suddenly became silent; the palace. It required an over ambitious horizon, it seemed like a documentary film day dreamer to slot a large wildcat in this on “African Safari” – fading in, fading out. even the leaves and twigs urbanized fiasco. We had to act immediately. Suddenly, the vehicle came to a stop and we After indefatigable poke in every nook and got to capture the scene of a herd of spotted did not move an inch. The corner of the small semi dark room sprawled deer with a few Sambar, drinking water from with dusty-misty spider webs and insects the nearby “jhara.” As the vehicle stopped, cold breeze was oblivion of caught up in them, we ultimately found a tiger they looked at us with innocent eyes. blowing in the sky. The herd feeding upon a Sambar, which gave us a clue to the entire incident: the Sambar was killed All of a sudden, there was an alarm call. The of deer immediately started in the same spot where we saw the pugmark whole area suddenly became silent; even the of the tiger and the blood stains belonged to leaves and twigs did not move an inch. The fleeing from the spot. To our the deer killed. The tiger had dragged it up to cold breeze was oblivion of blowing in the sky. an altitude of 1500 metres and a distance of The herd of deer immediately started fleeing astonishment, a spotted deer 500 metres. It is because the tiger wanted to from the spot. To our astonishment, a spotted was whisked away from the have the fresh flesh in silence and without any deer was whisked away from the others by disturbance. a tiger! It was killed by the tiger who broke others by a tiger! its shoulder and dragged it away to a nearby But we broke the silence. Not only that, we cave. The entire episode happened in the blink also disarrayed its habitat. Their habitats of an eye! As the sun had fallen below the have become fragmented because of the horizon, we could not capture it on camera. tremendous human population explosion, thereby leading to shortage of both habitat In the late evening, there was a call from the and food for the wild animals. Men have Field Director of Bandhavgarh National Park. 1 2 compelled them to come out of their natural He was a South Indian IFS Officer junior to habitat to prey upon domesticated animals, me. He requested me to have lunch with him further leading to man-wildlife conflict and and his family before boarding the train next 1. On our way through the forests ‘nuisance preying’. day from Katni for Calcutta. 2. The King of Kanha As the harsh afternoon sun gave way Next morning, after bidding goodbye to the to the cool evening breeze and quickly Field Director of Kanha National Park, we

34

DESTINATION CENTRAL INDIA

Subhankar Mondal Subhankar Mondal

Subhankar Mondal Subhankar Mondal went to the residence of the Field Director, move. She exited the cave in a flash and made Bandhavgarh National Park, which was a a beeline for her cubs. Seeing their mother, few hours’ drive from Kanha. His wife was the cubs changed direction and now moved It is moment like this that you a Bengali. The lady confessed that she had straight towards her. The public display of not spoken in Bengali for years and enjoyed affection that followed was heart-warming wait for while tiger watching. speaking with us for an hour. After lunch, the as the cubs nuzzled their mother and were Director accompanied us for a drive in and rewarded with reassuring licks in return. It is A tigress’ dedication to her around the Badhavgarh National Park. moment like this that you wait for while tiger watching. A tigress’ dedication to her cubs cubs would be hard to rival in We were parked outside some caves that would be hard to rival in the animal kingdom. had sheltered Buddhist monks hundreds of Mothers are fiercely protective and have been the animal kingdom. Mothers years ago. Today this served as a perfect den known to injure and kill larger males if their for tigresses with cubs. When we entered cubs are threatened. are fiercely protective and have into the cave, we spotted the tigress and her cubs enjoying an afternoon siesta. We human As the excitement levels rose in their human admirers, the mother understandably began been known to injure and kill beings can never do things silently. We feared that we might wake them up. to move her cubs away. We left them to their own devices at the edge of the meadow, larger males if their cubs are A guide and six vehicles ahead of us, suddenly more or less at the same spot my colleagues spotted few cubs in a distance as they darted had left the tigress, her mother and brother threatened. into the bushes, charging and tumbling onto two years earlier. The cycle of life continues one another. With the human herd’s attention for the tigers of Bandhavgarh. I revel in the now shifted to her cubs, the tigress made the joy associated with following these tigers

36 August - September I 2012

Kanha has about 22 species of mammals. Some herbivores found here are the Indian Wild Ox or Gaur, Sambar deer, spotted deer, barking deer, wild boars, blackbucks, Chowsingha (the only four horned antelope in the world) and the popular but Subhankar Mondal Later on the day we left for Katni after endangered Barasingha or the bidding good-bye to the Field Director of Bandhavgarh National Park and his wife. Swamp deer which is termed Flora and Fauna: as ‘Jewel of Kanha’ since it is Kanha has a very beautiful flora and fauna. Most of the area is covered by thick forest not found anywhere else. with Sal and Arjun trees found in plenty. One can also find fruit trees like mango and black plums. There are huge stretches of grasslands for the herbivores. The Mahuwa (Madhuca 1 2 3 Indica) tree famous for the popular liquor made from it is also found here. As for fauna, Kanha has about 22 species of mammals. Some 4 5 6 herbivores found here are the Indian Wild Ox or Gaur, Sambar deer, spotted deer, barking 1. Herd of gaur MP Tourism deer, wild boars, blackbucks, Chowsingha 2. Scratch marks made by tiger on tree and their fortunes. And with the infinite, (the only four horned antelope in the world) 3. Forest panorama endless pleasure is the acceptance that the and the popular but endangered Barasingha or the Swamp deer which is termed as ‘Jewel 4. Swamp Deer or Barasingha price we must pay in a world where wildlife of Kanha’ since it is not found anywhere else. 5. Driving through the forests trade grows more powerful by the moment, Apart from the herbivores, the sloth bear and 6. Tiger at Kanha today as things stand our only solution seems Indian wild dogs are also found here. Tigers endless vigilance. of Kanha need no mention. There are also

37 DESTINATION CENTRAL INDIA

Subhankar Mondal

Leopards, jackals, wild cats, porcupines and pangolins. Kanha is also an ornithological With the human herd’s paradise. A wide variety of birds, big and small, attention now shifted to her are seen here. It is also home to crocodiles and snakes of various types. Amongst snakes, cubs, the tigress made the Pythons, Cobras, rat snakes and wolf snakes are the common ones.

move. She exited the cave in MP Tourism General Information: a flash and made a beeline for How to go: Kanha is 230 kms from Jabalpur, timings are from sunrise to 11 am and then 5 hours drive away. Nagpur is 300 kms, 6 again from 5 pm till sunset. her cubs. Seeing their mother, hours away. Raipur is 230 kms, 5 hours away the cubs changed direction and Bandhavgarh is 325 kms, 7 hours away. Best time to visit: Kanha can be visited The nearest railway stations are Satna (130 during the cold season (November - February) and now moved straight kms) and Jabalpur. The nearest airports are or the hot Season (March - June). In the cold Jabalpur and Raipur. season the vegetation is green and lots of towards her. herbivores are seen. During the hot season, What to see: Apart from safaris, one may most of the wildlife of Kanha can be seen. also visit Bamni Dadar or the Sunset point from where visitors can see the spectacular Nearby attractions: The Bandhavgarh sunset and also have a view over the dense National Park is only a few hours’ drive away. forest of Kanha. The majestic Kawardha Palace in Kawardha, Where to stay: Kanha Earth Lodge (ph. Chhattisgarh, built in early 1900s by Maharaja 08800637711/09810253436). MP Tourism’s Dharamraj Singh is three hours drive from Kanha Safari Lodge, Mukki (outside the forest) Kanha. Close to this palace one can also find 1 2 and Baghira Log huts and Tourist Hostel, Kisli Krishna Temple, Bhoramdeo Temple, Mandwa (inside the forests) are also available – Booking Mahal and the Madan Manjari Mahal some of for these have to be done at the MP Tourism which date back to as early as the 7th century 1. Barasinghas regional offices (Kolkata ph. 03322833526) AD. The cities of Nagpur and Jabalpur, being 2. Spotted deer Wildlife Safari timings: The safari timings close by, one can also visit these places from depend upon the season. In winter the Kanha. Once in Jabalpur, one can visit the timings are from sunrise to 12 noon and then Marble Rocks, Dhuandhar Falls and Chausath again from 3 pm till sunset. In summer, the Yogini temple.

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With a vegetation of Sal forest across the valleys and slopes, deciduous forest up the hills and dense bamboo forests in parts, Bandhavgarh National Park is considered to be rich in biodiversity. It had a glorious past. For long it had been maintained as the game preserve of the Rewa Kings and their guests. The Bandhavgarh Fort, located in the centre of the forest here on top of Bandhavgarh hill, was the seat of Rewa Kings until 1617 A.D. Thereafter they shifted their capital to Rewa town and in the absence of proper maintenance the flora and fauna here started degrading. Maharaja Martand Singh, the last King of the princely state of Rewa and three times Member of Parliament from here, much known for his conservation of white tigers of the region, was affected by the shattered condition of forests. It was on his efforts that an area of 105 sq. kms. of Bandhavgarh forest was first declared as National Park in 1968. Later, in 1982, the area was extended to 448.84 sq. kms. Much later in 1993, realizing the importance and potentiality of the park, it was included in the Project Tiger Network. Located in Umaria district of Madhya Pradesh, Bandhavgarh is one of the more popular National parks of India. There is a hillock called Bandhavgarh in the middle of the forest, from which the park derives its name. The name has an important mythological belief associated with it. It is believed that on their return after defeating Ravana, Lord Rama and his brother Lakshmana had passed by From a mighty fort to a tiger’s den Bandhavgarh Sanghamitra

Amartya Mukherjee

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Sarasij Chakraborty Sarasij Chakraborty this hill. It is said that Lord Rama had got a fort extinct from here due to a disease passed on to built for his brother here and had given Lakshmana them from cattle but in 2010, around 35 pairs the responsibility of keeping vigilance over the of them were brought from Kanha national park It is said that Lord Rama island of Lanka from this fort, and hence the name and reintroduced to this forest. Chital deer are the Bandhavgarh, meaning ‘Brother’s Fort’ in Sanskrit. most abundantly found species in Bandhavgarh. had got a fort built for Around the main hill Bandhavgarh in the centre, Occasionally one can also spot wolves and hyenas. there are around 32 smaller hills surrounding it Apart from these, there are also about 80 species his brother here and had giving rise to multiple valleys with slopes. Most of butterflies and a wide variety of reptiles. of the hills have a flat top. Water flowing though given Lakshmana the Bandhavgarh is home to more than 250 species the valleys has created a number of permanent of birds. Some of the birds found here are Myna, streams and springs. Son and Johilla rivers flow on responsibility of keeping Little Egret, Cattle Egret, Great Egret, Plum-headed the eastern side and Umrar river flows through the Parakeet, Orange-headed Thrush, Brown-headed western side of Bandhavgarh. They make the hills vigilance over the island of Barbet, Coppersmith Barbet, Alexandrine Parakeet, and plains of the forest fertile and produce natural Indian Grey Hornbill, Rock pigeon, Green pigeon, Lanka from this fort vegetation. Black Drongo, Pond Heron, Common Snipe, Indian Bandhavgarh National Park is known to have the Peafowl, Indian Roller, Indian Robin, Eurasian highest density of Bengal tigers in the world. It was Collared Dove, Hoopoe, Large-billed Crow, also home to Sita and Charger, the legendary pair White-browed Fantail Flycatcher, Yellow-crowned of tigers. To her honour Sita, during her lifetime, Woodpecker, Lesser Adjutant Stork, Spotted Dove, had the title of being the most photographed tiger White-throated Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher, Red- in the world. A unique thing about this national rumped Swallow, Lesser Whistling Teal, Common park is that most of its tigers are known by names Kingfisher, Black Stork, Green Bee-Eater, Red- and some of them have actually been famous. vented Bulbul, Long-billed Vulture, Crested Serpent Wildlife enthusiasts from all across India are known Eagle, Black Redstart, Brahminy Starling, White- to visit this National Park year after year to meet tailed Swallow, Brown Fish Owl, Malabar Pied 2 3 their favourite tigers and tigresses. As of 2012, Hornbill, Common Kestrel, Rufous Woodpecker, there are about 50 tigers here and it is uncommon Sapphire Flycatcher, Crested Hawk Eagle, Oriental for visitors to come back without sighting one Turtle Dove, Red Collared Dove, White-rumped 1 during the safari. Out of the four main zones of Vulture, Red-necked Vulture, Lesser Kestrel, the core area of Bandhavgarh National Park, Tala, Sparrow, Golden Oriole, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Khitauli, Magdhi and Panpatta, Tala is the richest in Black Ibis, Asian Pied Starling, White-necked Stork, biodiversity, and has an abundance of tigers. Tickell’s Flowerpecker, Cormorant, Jungle Babbler, 1. The king of Bandhavgarh Tailorbird, Painted Francolin, Common Sandpiper, This national park also has a large population 2. Sambhar deer Greater Whistling Teal, Laughing dove and Purple of Leopards and a variety of deer species. There Sunbird. 3. Bengal tiger are a total of 27 mammals residing in this forest. Sambhar, barking deer and Nilgai are very The flora of the national park is diverse as well. common. The Indian bison or Gaur had become Some rare species of insectivorous plants like

41 DESTINATION CENTRAL INDIA

Sarasij Chakraborty Amartya Mukherjee Drocera peltata can be found here. There are also dynasty (10th – 13th century AD) and finally the 1 2 3 plenty of medicinal plants around. A host of fruit Baghel dynasty (13th – 17th century AD) that later bearing trees is also found. One can also see the moved its capital to Rewa and came to be known aromatic plant Pendanus, popularly known as as the Rewa dynasty. In the Bandhavgarh fort and 4 ‘Kewra’ in Indian languages. the nearby hillocks, there are 39 caves dating back 2000 years. The caves have interesting Buddhist inscriptions in Brahmi script and stone carvings of 1. Spotting the Tiger at Bandhavgarh Bandhavgarh Fort and caves Apart from the flora and fauna of Bandhavgarh, animals. The fort was last inhabited by descendants 2. Indian Roller the fort here is an important attraction for tourists. of kings in 1935. Today, the fort is home to several 3. Bari Gufa, the largest cave here It is believed to be 2000 years old and over all those endangered species of vultures and the caves are dens of the tigers. 4. Racing deer years many dynasties have ruled over the area and used this fort as their capital. This makes the fort one of the oldest in India. Important rulers of this Important places area who had made this fort their home include Bari Gufa: Bari gufa is the largest cave here and the Maurya dynasty (3rd century BC to 3rd century is 1000 years old. It has a huge entrance and nine AD), Vakataka dynasty (3rd – 5th century AD), rooms and many pillars. It is a manmade cave and Sengar dynasty (5th – 10th century AD), Kalachuri sheltered the king’s army during the medieval period. Now it is home to a variety of bats. Three Cave Pont: A classic architectural beauty, it is today, shelter to tigers, leopards and sloth bears. Gopalpur: The area is filled with river water and aquatic plants. This is a popular site for bird watching. Sidhbaba Temple: Around this holy temple, one is almost sure to see the tigers as they frequent this place. Sighting of sambar, chital and wild boars are also possible. This was the territory of some famous tigers of Bandhavgarh including Charger and Bokha. Ketkiha: This area is full of aromatic plants like Pendanus and is popularly called the Pendanus point. Charkadhara: Another popular area for tiger sighting, it is a marshy meadow and a hunting place for the predators. Sightings of diverse fauna are also common.

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Sarasij Chakraborty Shesh Shaiya: Here one finds a 65 ft long idol of Lord Vishnu in a reclining position on Shesh Naga, the seven hooded serpent. It is on the Bandhavgarh hill and is the only place in the forest where visitors are allowed to walk on foot. There is a host of fruit bearing trees around. The Charanganga river is said to originate from here. Sita Mandap: A natural creation, it is an arch type rock giving the impression of a bridge. It is known as the favourite place of the legendary tigress Sita, the mother of most tigers here. Raj Bahera: It is a marshy meadow where sambar deer, chitals and wild boars can be spotted feeding. Damnar river originates from here and a variety of birds can be viewed. One can also have a view of the Bandini hills from here. Photographer’s Point: It is a mountain top from where one can have a panoramic view of Bandhavgarh forest and wildlife sanctuary. For photography from this point special permission has to be taken from the Forest Director. Baghela Museum: Situated near the Tala village, it is worth a visit. The white tiger captured by Maharaja Martand Singh in 1951 is now stuffed and kept here on display. Nearby attractions While visiting the Bandhavgarh National Park, one might also consider visiting these nearby places, all of them situated in Madhya Pradesh.

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Sarasij Chakraborty Amartya Mukherjee Sanjay National Park: It is a part of Sanjay Dubri Tiger Reserve and is one of the best places to visit nearby. It is in Sidhi district of Madhya Pradesh and is 195 kms (4.5 hrs) away from Bandhavgarh. It is rich in flora and fauna. Nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts must visit this place. It is one of the largest wildlife sanctuaries in India. Kanha National Park: It is a must visit for all wildlife enthusiasts visiting Bandhavgarh. Tigers, chital deer, barasingha, blackbuck, wild boar and gaur are commonly seen here. Kanha is 218 kms (4.5 hrs) drive from Bandhavgarh. Panna National Park: It is a popular tiger reserve in India very rich in bio-diversity. Tigers, leopards, wolves, chital, sloth bear, chinkara and sambar are found here. It is only 57 kms from Khajuraho and 206 kms from Bandhavgarh (4 hrs). Pench National Park: It is 407 kms from Bandhavgarh (7 hrs) and is located close to Sarasij Chakraborty Maharashtra border. It has a glorious past and 07627-265314 / +91 9424973602, e-mail: info@ finds mention in Ain-i-Akbari. It is this national gtvresort.com) park and forest that formed the setting of the 1 2 famous ‘The Jungle Book’ by Rudyard Kipling. How to go Khajuraho: Khajuraho is situated 253 kms (5.5 By Air: The nearest airports are Khajuraho (237 Kms) and hrs) from Bandhavgarh. It is well known for its Jabalpur (190 kms), and they are well connected with all exquisite temple architecture and sculptures. major Indian cities. 3 General Information By Rail: Nearest rail stations are Jabalpur (190 kms), Katni (102 kms), Satna (112 kms) and Umaria (35 kms). Where to stay 1. Spotted Deers White Tiger Forest Lodge is run by MP Tourism. By Road: Driving distances to Bandhavgarh from major 2. Serpent Eagle Double bed AC rooms are Rs 4690 per night cities and towns are Jabalpur: 3-4 hrs, Satna: 3.5hrs, 3. Peacock and Non AC room rates per night are Rs Kanha: 4.5hrs, Katni: 2.5hrs and Khajuraho: 5.5hrs. There 3690. For booking one might call (ph. 07627- are state and private buses available between all these 265406/265366) or book via olrs.mptourism.com. places and Bandhavgarh and taxis can also be hired. There are also a host of private accommodations available for all types of budgets. For those Best time to visit interested in low budget good hotels, Golbro Tiger View (GTV) Resort might be a good choice. November to June is the best time to visit Bandhavgarh. The Double bed room charges start from Rs. The park is closed due to rains from 1st July to 15th 1000. For booking visitors can call or email. (Ph. October

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An artist’s impression

46 August - September I 2012 An artist’s impression

48 August - September I 2012

49 An artist’s impression

50 August - September I 2012

51 DESTINATION SOUTH

We arrived at Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary with the break of Monsoon. When we boarded at Ooty, the rains had started. We were anxious that our trip might get massacred due to rain. But our anxiousness turned into sheer happiness and contentment at the day’s end. Whether it was sheer luck or rain god’s help, a good shower brought out a good experience at the Sanctuary. The journey from Ooty to Mudumalai was enjoyable. The mountainous view across the way was scenic and the sky was heavily clouded. The very tall eucalyptus trees on both sides of the winding road for a brief stretch were a lovely sight. Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary conducts well structured and planned wild life safari for the tourists. We booked the vehicle safari from the forest office. After booking, there was a heavy squall. We waited at the forest office verandah for the previous trip to return. The children, the most enthusiasts of all, were discussing how it would be to see a tiger, grownups seemed to be hopeful in that prospect too, but the tigers are rarely seen in this area. Elephants and deer are the maximum in count. So we were not definitely meeting the tiger. We quizzed Shades of Green and Wildness at Mudumalai Pratiti Moulik, Kolkata

52 August - September I 2012

the previous batch on their return; they could the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve. The Ooty-Mysore see only two herds of deer and two or three highway goes straight through the middle of 2 elephants in the heavy rain. So we thought we the sanctuary. In fact, before coming to the 1 would be seeing those animals only. The forest Forest office one can experience the forest officials have knowledge of which animals from the highway itself. The dense forest cover were seen near the closest radius of the forest with all shades of green, the ups and downs office that day and accordingly the troupes of of the terrain, the occasional water bodies 1. A monkey at the forest mazda minis are sent in those routes. By the and swamps formed a beautiful landscape. 2. Flora of Mudumalai time we got up on the safari minibus, the We had got down from the car, which we had heavy rains had turned into a drizzle. Twenty booked from Ooty for our day’s trip, on a turn people were on the bus with us, armed with overlooking a water body. An eerie calmness the best of cameras to capture in the lens the was broken by occasional tourist cars and wild animals in their habitat. The rain stopped jeeps. We noticed that it is thoroughfare for eventually leaving a sigh of relief on the camera the local masses too. happy people who were trying so long to keep Back on the bus, we were told not to make away their gadgets from getting moist. any sound, even the mini was moving very Mudumalai Wildlife Santuary is on a hilly slowly sometimes almost in walking pace terrain at the western side of Tamil Nadu closer without making any sound. First we were on to Kerala and Karnataka border. It is a part of a high road, which turned into a smaller road.

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Suddenly, the forest guide on the bus alerted two bigger ones, one little shorter and the other us in a hush hush tone ‘langur’. The lone a strong built one. One after the other, they langur was busy, so gave a short appearance crossed the lane. Two went hiding behind the and hurriedly moved away. We moved deeper trees at a distance and the bigger elephant was into even smaller lane. Suddenly, on the left still watching us from there. Our bus advanced we were stunned by a herd of beautiful looking a little to have a final look and move on, but deer, we realized that they were watching us the elephant misjudged our intentions and keenly. Some of them had lovely antlers and came running at us in great speed and stopped spots on their bodies. Next we saw another two meters away from the bus, moved up his big herd of deer crossing the lane from the trunk in the air and did a massive trumpet to right. The bus maintained a distance, and they scare us off. Well, that was definitely frightful carefully crossed the lane always keeping an for city dweller like us! The few seconds of apprehensive eye on us. It took some time for fear of getting rammed by an elephant and the whole herd to cross. After waiting there for the ear piercing trumpet will remain vivid till some time we moved on. many years. The bus quickly moved away from Next, three bison were seen behind the trees at their path. After some more turns over a long a distance. The bus moved on for quite some stretch, we reached back the forest office with time after that, but there was no animal in huge tuskers happily enjoying the afternoon sight. snacks at its backyard. They would be ready next morning to take curious tourists on its 1 2 The pin drop silence of the bus amplified the back for the elephant safari. sound of the forest. There were more to it than it met the eyes. We realized the presence As we got down, everyone had a smiling face. The next batch moved in. Somebody asked 3 of small animals, birds, insects and reptiles in every square inch of the forest. The trees were the children ‘How many wild animals did denser, the air seemed cold. The trees were you see?’ The children’s summary sounded 1. An elephant behind the bushes young and old, long sturdy built, with some incredible for the one hour tour. One peahen, 2. Three bison having their barks broken in the middle. From one langur, three bison, three elephants and the appearance, one could make out that deer…. nobody counted, they were numerous. 3. A spotted deer summer had been quite harsh. There were The safari was a safe, comfortable, sneak peek pockets of bamboo trees around. Bushy plants into the untamed world. The rain drenched and long grass filled the space between the backdrop was soothing. trees. One peahen quickly moved away from After taking some snacks from the shops our path. Advancing a little, a smaller herd of we boarded our car. We returned to Ooty deer was seen in the left followed by another by a separate route. The journey back was bigger herd on the right. remarkable. With mountain steep on one side Suddenly, our bus stopped, three elephants and the slope on the other, the car climbed were crossing the road, a baby elephant and steeply up the mountain crossing one hairpin

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bend after another in quick succession, thirty the reserve forest area along with a guide and 1 2 3 six in all. We reached Ooty in half the time it jeep safaris outside the reserve forest area. took to reach Mudumalai. The road is a lonely The Jungle Hut Resort at Masinagudi close to road less travelled than the Gudalur route. One Mudumalai is one of the more popular stay 4 5 must take a good local driver for that. Amidst options. For booking rooms of the government the light hue of the already set sun we could forest guest houses one has to call the Forest 1. A herd of spotted deer see the ‘Sleeping Beauty’ of the Nilgiri, and office at Ooty (ph. 0423-2444098). The office knew that we have returned to Ooty. 2. A langur is located at the Mount Stewart Hill in Ooty centre. Booking has to be done 10 – 15 days 3. It was raining when we arrived General Information in advance depending upon the season. 4. Mother and baby monkey Mudumalai is a good one day trip from Mysore Although no online payment options are yet 5. A herd of elephants or Ooty. But it definitely demands a stay. Outside available, rooms may be blocked on request and the forest office, local private open jeeps and payment made at Ooty. Room rates are Rs. 1097 vans are available on hire, which can take only per night per room in the Woodhouses, Rs. 530 the road and move outside the reserve forest for normal rooms in other resorts and Rs. 65 area. The fare varies and is mutually agreed per bed in the 10 or 20 bed dormitories. These upon after bargaining. forest guest houses are located in Mudumalai, Staying there: There are many hotels to stay Masinagudi, Abhayaranyam and Kargudi inside apart from Forest Guest Houses which are to the Mudumalai Tiger Reserve. One often gets to be booked beforehand. There are many resort see the elephants and other forest animals from hotels, some of which provide trekking outside the resort windows.

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Safari booking: Elephant safari has to be booked on the spot at the Mudumalai Forest reception office (ph. 0423-2526235). The elephant safari as well as the vehicle safari takes place in the morning (7 am – 9 am) and afternoon hours (3 pm – 6 pm). They have to be booked at least one hour in advance. Four persons go on one elephant and for four it costs Rs. 465 and the safari lasts for 45 minutes. The rate per person for the vehicle safari is Rs. 35 and the duration is 1 hour.

Transportation: Nearby Railway Stations are Ooty and Mysore. Nearby airports are Coimbatore and Mysore. Hired cars and buses are available. Car rentals from Ooty to Mudumalai and back are Rs. 1500 for small cars and Rs. 1800 for bigger ones. The places are well connected by roads, which are in good condition. There is no law and order problem.

Best time to visit: Best time to visit Mudumalai is between May to June and then again between September to October. The period between July to August and again end of October to December are the monsoon months and should ideally be avoided. March and April months, being very dry here, the forest area is closed for tourists due to chances of forest fire.

Flora and Fauna: The sanctuary is in the middle of other reserve forests and sanctuaries bordering it. Moyar river flows through the sanctuary. Of the 321 sq. km. of the Sanctuary, 108 km core has been declared a National Park. It forms a continuous corridor for the wildlife. The forest vegetation is dry and moist deciduous variety and shrubs. It is home to elephant, chital, spotted deer, tiger, leopard, bison, hyenas, jackals, and sloth bears. Critically endangered bird species like Oriental white backed vulture and long billed vulture are found here. The density and variety of species is high.

Nearby attractions: The other places to visit nearby are Moyar River Gorge and Waterfall, Elephant feeding Camp, Kalatty waterfalls, Animal Museum. Bandipur Wild Life Sanctuary of Karnataka is one hour ten minutes drive away and Waynard Wildlife Sanctuary of Kerala is two hours drive away. They are also equally interesting eco tourism destinations.

57 MEMOIRS OF A BACKPACKER

Hitchhiking to the world’s smallest Big City

AARHUS, DENMARK Srinjayee Aloka

Ever since I got to know about it as a teenager, backpacking has hugely appealed to me. As a student, I was on budget; but backpacking also unfolded rare adventure and experiences for me. It helped me see the world beyond the guidebooks and realize that there are things that wait for me to discover and bring in front of the world. There’s immense pleasure in discovering un-treaded routes, as also in being left on your own in an unknown but fascinating world. There is charm in backpacking to popular destinations as well. Rather than looking for the beaten path, one can find ways down the lesser known alleys and remote corners and be part of the local people and culture. For those who dare to trade in the luxury of cozy beds at home for rare adventures and misadventures in the world beyond commonly treaded routes, backpacking is definitely a boon. With the backpack on my back, I have had the opportunity of experiencing the real destination and meeting the locals rather than following the rigid ‘tour itinerary’ and meeting only the tour guide as a representative of the ‘indigenous populace’. Now that as a decent salary earner, I can afford it, shutting up in comfortable air-conditioned taxis or buses and looking at the lanes and people through the window glasses still hardly appeals to me. Throwing myself into the stream and flowing with the native culture and way of life is what travelling actually means to me; because,

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I am not a tourist, only a traveler, with all my something that I was beginning to dislike by heart and soul. Given a choice, I would love to then. At Copenhagen, I met a lady who had 2 3 1 pack my backpack again and set off to romance just travelled from Aarhus and was all praises the beckoning world. You have no chance of for this Danish city. I was impressed and had 4 5 getting lost if you have no destination. And if had it in mind ever since, to visit Aarhus some getting lost is the choice, nothing like it! day. Weeks later as my weekend approached, a 1. Aerial view of Aarhus friend of mine in Bremen, Germany with whom 2. Lanes of 16th century Danish town Scandinavia has always thrilled me. I had I had been staying for the last few months told earlier been to Copenhagen with a group of me that a relative of her friend was travelling 3. Waterfront in aarhus in peak Autumn friends and together we had a decent time. from Dortmund to Aarhus. Dirk was supposed 4. An old windmill We were into a pre-planned tour with a fixed to pass by Bremen. It was Thursday and I still 5. Cycling is a popular activity with tourists itinerary neatly written down on a big piece had one day of class that week. I decided to of paper and we followed it almost blindly – let go and rather packed my backpack. Teresa

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While flanning down the picturesque lanes, I came to Åboulevarden, regarded as the most beautiful street in Aarhus. It was absolutely picture perfect. The street is by the side of a small canal that flows up to the harbour. On both sides are numerous showrooms, boutiques, shops, cafés and galleries. A leisurely stroll by this boulevard, at night when it is well lit up, is bliss. And unlike a similar posh area in an Indian metro, it was not crowded; there were a handful of people here and there, visiting the shops where ‘Udsalg’ (Danish term for year-end ‘Clearance Sale’) was going on. Quite unbelievable for any Indian!

noted down the car number in a piece of paper this when I came across the front of the 1 2 and handed it over to me. That was it! hauptbahnhof flooded with cars of all types. It was absolutely not possible to keep track of the 3 Aarhus was my second solo backpacking tour car number. We were supposed to meet at 9 and the first hitchhiking experience. It was 4 5 am and it was way past it by then. Dirk did not an absolute fun-filled adventure. I was a little apprehensive in the beginning. Early morning have a cell phone, making things worse. I was 1. Åboulevarden in autumn on Friday, I had a pleasant surprise with Teresa left with no choice but to ask for lift randomly, 2. Flower stall making me coffee and a lovely sandwich with in the hope that Dirk, wherever, he was, would 3. The town hall the delicious wild boar meat salami that her spot me. Back home in India, it might sound scary to ask for lifts, but in this part of the 4. Local sweets store mum had cooked back home in the middle of Germany. The lovely lady had packed some for world, it was not (so) scary. Although most 5. Limousines are very common here her daughter when she was home last time. girls like Teresa would never dare to hitchhike. Teresa was bit possessive about those, but that I knew this from the morning sandwich. She morning she came up with a surprise. I relished was bit worried. However, my trick worked and the food and set off with my backpack. From an old broken car came stopping by in front of the window of her second floor flat, she bade me. “Freundin von Teresa?” the gentleman at me goodbye and wished me a happy journey. the steering asked, popping his head out of the car. “Ja ja ich bin Aloka” I replied with a smile. We were to meet in front of the Bremen He politely let me in. hauptbahnhof (main railway station). I had never seen or talked to Dirk, nor even knew My German was pathetic. Thankfully, Dirk was a the model or colour of his car. I only realized good English speaker. A handsome chatterbox,

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all the way he kept narrating countless stories. a lot more time to reach the city. By the time we there were a handful of people here and there, I was told that it would take roughly three and reached, it was already late afternoon. I took visiting the shops where ‘Udsalg’ (Danish term half hours to reach Aarhus. He drove pretty my backpack, got off the car and thanked Dirk for year-end ‘Clearance Sale’) was going on. well and we crossed picturesque locales all the (and I paid him 20 euros). I decided to walk Quite unbelievable for any Indian! way up to Flensburg close to the Danish border down the streets exploring the unknown alleys At Åboulevarden I came across a Danish where a couple asked for a lift and Dirk, who and hidden corners of the city. There is a special Sweet store (I would rather love to call it ‘a was trying to share his fuel cost by offering lifts, charm unique to this city. Just strolling down chocolate store’) with thousands of varieties happily agreed. That was a couple hailing from the streets makes one feel good. There are of chocolates stored open, displayed on trays Afghanistan, the husband was a fish dealer in just so many things to see around. Scattered (just like Indian sweet shops). I did a lot of Flensburg and the wife was working as a nurse all across are wonderful examples of exquisite chocolate shopping here. Åboulevarden is also in a hospital in Aarhus. architecture even in unnoticed squares. the favorite boulevard of the people here and On the way we stopped for sometime at While flanning down the picturesque lanes, I naturally the best place to meet the locals. Here Sønderborg, a small Danish town where Dirk came to Åboulevarden, regarded as the most I came across Rita, a bubbly Danish girl who showed us a non-functioning aeroplane that beautiful street in Aarhus. It was absolutely chirped endless stories to me as we explored the had been discarded by the Danish airlines picture perfect. The street is by the side of alleys. She described herself as an ‘inheritress’, and bought by a Danish resident here who a small canal that flows up to the harbour. when I asked her what she did for living. “I converted it into his office. It looked and On both sides are numerous showrooms, only spend!” she said. She was looking for a sounded interesting. An aeroplane standing in boutiques, shops, cafés and galleries. A tattoo parlour where she could get a ‘naughty’ the middle of long stretching grassland, with leisurely stroll by this boulevard, at night when tattoo for herself. Together we peeped at the hardly anything else in sight, was but unique. it is well lit up, is bliss. And unlike a similar posh display sections of many tattoo shops until she Contrary to what Dirk had promised, it took us area in an Indian metro, it was not crowded; finalized on one and went in.

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Aarhus, called Århus prior to 2011 has been articles used by the Viking settlers including in the middle of the night. The hostel had a historically known as Aros. It is the second their houses. Ironically, therefore, Aarhus is at well furnished kitchen for travelers to cook largest city of Denmark with a relatively younger the same time the oldest city and the youngest their food. One evening I ventured out into the population, thanks to the 25 educational and city! The Vikings had settled on the mouth of a common room to watch TV and met two very research institutions situated here. The cross river which was then at the spot where the city nice ladies, Elena from Italy and Ingrid from section of people one comes across in the cathedral ‘Domkirke’ is now situated. The city Norway. streets here are much younger as compared to has played an important role in history, suffered Three girls in a TV room with the TV telecasting that in any other city. It lies around the centre ravages of war in the hands of the Germans more Danish channels which none of us could of Denmark on the peninsula of Jutland and and the Swedish, has been gutted by fire and decipher. A gossip naturally followed. The last is unofficially known as the capital of Jutland. suffered from diseases like plague but still it has week Elena had come to Aarhus for a weekend The city has a huge waterfront with a big maintained the grandeur and anybody visiting stay to explore the lovely city. However, she harbour. Parts of the city are hilly while parts the city is sure to like it. misplaced her passport and had to stay back are still surrounded by forests. It has expanded I stayed in the more popular City Sleep-In for police formalities. She had no clue to how much because of the trade through its harbour hostel at Aarhus and loved the place. The staff long her stay would ultimately extend to. Ingrid and holds an important position in the was friendly but hardly spoke any English. It had entirely different reasons for coming down country’s trade. For tourists, the city has plenty was located close to the harbour, almost right to the city. She was in search of donor sperm. of museums, galleries, theatres and cultural opposite to it and the railway station was also As she said this, Elena and me, both got equally organizations to explore. walking distance away. The old town with curious. Elena could not stop herself from Aarhus is believed to be the oldest among the many interesting buildings and museums was asking. As she stammered in search of the right big cities of Scandinavia dating back to as early just behind it. Unlike many hostels, it was open question, Ingrid got the clue and began her as the 8th century AD. From around the same 24 hours a day and it was no wonder that my story. She said she had a girlfriend back home time archaeological findings have revealed many room-mates often left for dance parties right in Norway and wanted to marry her. But the

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then laws in her country did not allow same the sperm bank, she naturally chose the Danish sex couple (under registered partnerships) to variety since that would match ethnicity and 2 adopt babies. So their plan was to have a baby being the indigenous variety would be cheap 1 3 first and then get their partnership registered. as well. She said she would have loved to 4 She was also hopeful that the same-sex couple have an African origin sperm but found it too marriage laws would soon be passed in her expensive. In the TV room that night, we spent 1. A woolens store 400 years back country and then they could legally marry. She hours discussing our cultures. Ingrid’s adoptive 2. A very beautiful city indeed was more inclined towards having a biological Norwegian parents had adopted another South child rather than adopting one. So sperm Korean girl before her and later had a biological 3. Beautiful Aarhus architecture bank was the only option and Denmark was child after which they got divorced. Today, the 4. Hostel beds in Aarhus the most obvious choice. Ingrid was in great two adopted girls lived with the father and mood to share her story that night. She told us the biological child lived with the mother. That more. She was a South Korean by birth born night was an eye-opener to cultures around out of wedlock. As her mother lay unconscious the world. Elena opined that her country was immediately after childbirth, she was sold rather conservative and cases like Ingrid were a off by her paternal aunt and grandma to a remote possibility. Norwegian childless couple. It was not until her 18th birthday, the fact was revealed to Ingrid I am not particularly a fan of museums. But and her biological parents, who, until that day Aarhus was an exception. I treasure my visit to knew that the child born to them 18 years back every museum here. Aarhus is home to various was stillborn. Today, Ingrid cannot relate to her types of museums. Two of my best experiences biological parents anymore; she believes she is in the city were a visit to Den Gamle By and the more Norwegian and when given a choice at Moesgård Museum.

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Another unique museum I came across in Aarhus was the Women’s Museum or Kvindemuseet i Danmark. There are only few such museums in the world that trace the history of women’s lives, their motherhood, careers, family, behavior and education with special emphasis on the changes in Den Gamle By or the ‘Old Town’ is an open- air village museum consisting of 75 half- women’s life over the last 200 timbered houses originally built in 20 towns across Denmark later brought and stored here. years. It was opened in 1914, making it the world’s first open-air museum of the kind. Till date it remains one of the few museums of this type and has millions of visitors every year. The buildings collected have been placed here in an organized manner and gives the impression of a small Danish village dating back to 16th to early 19th century AD. The ponds, bricked roads, windmills, wells, grocery stores, post office etc. make the village look like one from the pages of the fairy tales of Hans Christian Andersen. Each building here is a separate museum in itself and this is an added attraction. So one can see a clock museum, a medicine museum, a lifestyle museum, a coppersmith’s house fruits baskets, pickles, jams, wine, crockery, as a museum, a chemist’s shop, toy museum cutlery, aprons, etc. are available. Right next to and a book store that is now a museum. Each Den Gamle By, there is an old wind mill at the 1 2 3 museum is a visual treat on how the people of Botanical garden. olden days lived and worked. These are open The Moesgård Museum is located in Højbjerg, 4 5 for visitors and there are special exhibitions in some buildings occasionally which also attract a suburb of Aarhus. One finds here on display tourists. Walking down the bricked roads of several objects relating to Scandinavian history 1. A chemist shop 400 years back Den Gamle By takes one 400 years back in like a rune stone from the Viking Age, weapons, 2. Jewelry used by Viking dwellers time. Carriages, old bi-cycles, wine barrels and potteries, jewelries, utensils and skeletons 3. Marselisborg Palace many household items make very interesting dating back to the Viking age, dug out from the 4. Houses of 16th century Danish town display. Occasionally one also comes across ground. The main attraction here is, however, the Grauballe man. The Grauballe Man was 5. Bicycle in use in 16th century Danish town the museum staff dressed in traditional Danish attire moving around the streets playing their discovered in April, 1952, in a peat bog near the roles as if part of a seventeenth century village village of Grauballe near Silkeborg in Jutland, life. There is a souvenir shop at Den Gamle By Denmark. Investigations were carried on for a located in one of the old houses dating back to number of years and finally scientists have opined 1600s where all types of typical Danish items that this man is from around 290 BC (2300 years including books of Christian Andersen, CDs, old) and is therefore older than Jesus Christ! His

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The Besættelsesmuseet i Århus or Occupation I went to see the Marselisborg Palace in Museum is located inside the cellar of an old Aarhus. This summer residence of the Danish police station in Aarhus. This building had Royal Family is located in a small hilly area in served as Gestapo headquarters for some time Aarhus. It was built in 1967. I found it rather during the Second World War. Today it displays unimpressive. The Marselisborg garden is just items portraying the daily life in Aarhus during opposite to the Palace. Since I visited the city the German occupation from 1940 to 1945. in peak autumn, the garden also looked very There are also military equipments and items shabby. of terror against the civilian population, Allied, The old town of Arhus can be seen around Nazi and Danish propaganda materials, ration the Domkirke area. There are nice old houses, tickets, photographs etc. on display. narrow lanes and a glimpse of the old Aarhus. Another unique museum I came across in Aarhus The oldest house here dates back to 1575 was the Women’s Museum or Kvindemuseet i AD. The harbour and waterfront of Aarhus is Danmark. There are only few such museums in magnificent. My hostel was right opposite to the world that trace the history of women’s lives, the harbour and I made it a point to go to the their motherhood, careers, family, behavior and harbour early morning every day before the education with special emphasis on the changes sunrise and witness the inspiring sunrise from in women’s life over the last 200 years. there. As the sun slowly appeared from behind is one of the best preserved bog bodies in the the numerous vessels and ships and the sky world. The body is well preserved and its nails My next visit was to the ARoS Aarhus gradually changed its colour from black to dark and red hair are just amazing to see. Scientists Kunstmuseum. It is an art museum, one of the blue to light blue, the silent water and early have even taken his fingerprints. It is believed largest in northern Europe with 10 storeys and morning chirping of birds made for a hypnotic that this man was around 30 years old when he a total of 17,000 square meters dedicated to atmosphere. was killed. He died from a slit throat. There are Danish art. There are three sections inside. The two equally strong speculations as to the cause Danish “Golden Age” between 1770–1900, A trip to the city is definitely worth remembering. of his death. While as per some he might have Danish modernism between 1900–1960 and I loved every minute of my time here. It was the been executed as punishment for a crime, others the contemporary Danish art. Apart from first time I was staying in a youth hostel, the very first time that I was coming in touch with believe that he was a human sacrifice to please these permanent exhibitions, there are also many young people from all around the world. the Goddess of fertility, a popular practice in other temporary exhibitions from time to time. The first time I had backpacked solo, it was a those days. The body had been thrown off to a During my visit, an interesting exhibition of matter of one extended day and I did not stay peat bog that contained tanning acid which over Chinese art, light and music was going on. overnight. So Aarhus was special. Spending a all those centuries turned the skin of the man into And one also finds here the statue of the little less than three whole days in a new city, something like leather and is blackish in colour ‘Big Boy’ which attracts a lot of visitors from in a new country was exciting. I enjoyed the now. Standing next to the Grauballe man is sure all around the world. Many people are drawn time carefree. to give one goose bumps. I stood there for hours. to this museum initially to see the ‘Big Boy’ The man seemed to be looking at me. It is one of and eventually end up finding everything else My journey back was memorable too. Early in those feelings that are difficult to describe. worth praising as well. the morning I went to the railway station only

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to be informed that there were no tickets Getting to know varieties of world culture, 2 1 available, and that happens in the rarest of eating regional delicacies, making friends rare case. All I had in my pocket was 37 notwithstanding borders, are some bonuses euros and that was way too less for a 455 that backpacking has yielded me. And more 3 4 5 kilometer journey, that too in Scandinavia. I than just a bonus are the memories of my got a free lift to Kolding, a Danish harbour adventures (and misadventures) across the 1. The well preserved body of 2300 years old town from a middle aged lady who was globe. They always stay with me. They Grauballe Man returning home from Aarhus. On the way multiply with time as I keep on escaping 2. Shops of 16th century Danish town we stopped at McDonalds for some burger every time I get a chance. and fries. From Kolding I got a lift to Kiel 3. Danish Souvenirs from Den Gamle By Mark Twain had once said “Twenty years in Germany in a car for 15 euros. That was 4. The ‘Big Boy’ in ARoS museum from now you will be more disappointed by quite a high price given the distance of 180 the things that you didn’t do than by the 5. Weapons used by Viking dwellers kms only. From Kiel hauptbahnhof I took a ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. train to Bremen. I was back home penniless. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the Teresa was happy that I returned safe, but trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. no more sandwiches for me this time! Discover.” As a child I had dreamt of seeing More than just a vacation, travelling the world some day, and I am happy to has been means of education for me. have successfully done it all on my own.

66 BOOK

SPACE in this page

SIZE 1

Size: 5.5cm x 6.5cm Rate : Colour : ` 1500 Black & White : ` 700

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Size: 5.5cm x 4.5cm Rate : Colour : ` 1000 Black & White : ` 400

Size: 5.5cm x 3cm SIZE 3 Rate : Colour : ` 500 Black & White : ` 200 POINT OF VIEW

Sustainable Forestry in the light of Rio+20 Conference Dr. Paritosh Nandi, Kolkata

Forests are abundant renewable natural resources that bring to mankind a variety of economic, social, environmental and cultural benefits and services. The global demand for their products and services is ever increasing with the growth of population. Unfortunately, the growth of forest resources has not been impressive mainly due to deforestation, conversion into other landforms, overharvesting and degradation resulting from pollution. Late Wangari Maathai, in her Nobel Peace Through their involvement, women gain some of forest products like fruits, vegetables, oils, Prize Lecture in 2004 addressed the serious degree of power over their lives, especially their roots, spices, herbs, meat, bark and clothing issues on planted forestry and its ancillary social and economic position and relevance in material like animal fur and skins, building attributes and benefits. She said, “On the the family.” materials, gums, dyes and medicinal plants. environment front, they are exposed to many Needless to mention forests promote As per India State of Forest Report 2001, human activities that are devastating to the sustainable development and also help to 20.6% of the total land area in India was under environment and societies. These include stabilize greenhouse gas (GHG) concentrations forest cover and another 2.5% of land in the widespread destruction of ecosystems, in the atmosphere. Forestry leads to sustainable country was under tree cover. This amounted especially through deforestation, climatic development in numerous ways. Of these to a total of 23% of the total land area of instability, and contamination in the soils the most important are environmental, social the country out of which about 61.7% was and waters that all contribute to excruciating and economic benefits arising from forests. categorised as dense forests. The Tenth Five poverty” To maximise these benefits broader land Year Plan had proposed raising the forest and “We have planted over 30 million trees management plans are required. tree cover to 25% by 2007 and to 33% by that provide fuel, food, shelter, and income The forests around the world are abode to 2012. This implied bringing additional area to support their children’s education and about 60 million people who depend upon under forest and tree cover by afforestation household needs. The activity also creates them for their life and subsistence. They live on and tree plantation. It called for joint efforts employment and improves soils and watersheds. and derive their survival needs from a variety for maintenance and expansion. However,

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the target miserably failed. The India State of this trade off between development and forest scale and growth of investment going into Forest Report 2011, revealed that forests and conservation and management in proper sustainable development. They are part of a tree cover as in 2011 was only about 23.81% perspective will lead us to the emergence growing global movement for change. Our job of the country’s geographical area. The main of stakeholder participation in ecologically now is to create a critical mass, an irresistible reasons attributable to this failure, as per the sound development strategy, which should momentum.” Bjorn Lomborg, a professor at report, were prevalence of shifting cultivation emphasize harmonization of economic, social Copenhagen Business School and author of practiced in the forests of North East India, and environment concern in the process of ‘The Skeptical Environmentalist’ however said illegal timber trade and smuggling and rapid development. that the pledges reflect efforts of companies to urbanisation. Since forests constitute an integral part of take advantage of government incentives they Innumerable attempts at Sustainable Forestry sustainable development, the role of forests is expect to flow due to the recommendations Management around the world have failed gaining importance in international conventions set out in Rio. Concluding the conference, because adequate attention was not paid on biodiversity and climate change. Increased Brazilian President Dilma Rousseff made her to the various stakeholders involved and attention is also being paid to sustainable address at the summit and opined that the their particular interest. The local populace forest development in international trade final document is just the beginning ofa dwelling in the forests, local farmers, the of forest products. In some parts of the transformation process. One would seriously private sector deriving benefit out of forests world there is increased preference amongst hope so! and the government departments, national consumers for buying products obtained from and international policy makers and planners sustainably managed forests and manufactured Dr. Paritosh Nandi are the stakeholders in sustainable forestry by environmentally acceptable processes. A Ph.D. in Solar Energy Engineering, is management. Proper management calls for Conservation and sustainable development currently working with EnVERT Group as a cooperation in sharing the burdens and of all types of forests worldwide have now Director – Strategy & Technology. He has benefits. Stakeholders are expected to play emerged as priority items on the international previously worked for leading solar energy a synchronous role in the exploitation and policy agenda, particularly in the context of the companies in India and abroad in the field of management of the forest resource. Each United Nations Conference in Rio, first held in design development of MW level solar plants, stakeholder is likely to have different but June 1992, followed by Rio+10 at Johannesburg, both Solar Photovoltaic and Concentrated conflicting interest regarding the usage and South Africa in 2002 and Rio+20 again held Solar Power. He is a Certified Energy Auditor management of forest resources and these at Rio de Janeiro, Brazil in June 2012. Policy- by Ministry of Power, Government of India. differences may be vital. makers at the national and international level He is also a reviewer for various international Journals in the field of energy especially on are concerned about reconciling the role of Exploitation or conservation initiatives solar energy devices and systems. forests in meeting national socioeconomic and imply that some stakeholder stand to lose environmental objectives as well as the global while some stand to gain. It is the failure environmental and socio-economic interests of to identify this conflict in interest of the the community of nations. different stakeholders that has often led to local resistance to government policies and In the sustainable development front, the development initiatives. In effect, these fail recently concluded Rio+20 conference held at to meet their desired objectives. However, Rio de Janeiro, the world leaders adopted ‘The despite the various conflicts at different levels, Future We Want’ declaration on sustainable countries should be more proactive to promote development on the final day of the conference. sustainable development. As for instance, the In the conference, the United Nations obtained local forest dwellers mostly rely on wood fuel pledges worth $513 billion from governments for their cooking needs. Hence, for subsistence, and private companies for projects aimed they need to cut trees. The introduction of at cutting the use of fossil fuel, boosting up solar cookers among these dwellers would go usage of renewable energy, conservation of a long way towards reducing deforestation. water and reduction of poverty. The Rio+20 In addition to these, usage of solar lighting document puts top priority on eradication of among the forest communities, who do not poverty and shifting to green economy and have access to grid power, is expected to emphasises that developed countries cannot answer their inherent developmental needs. put additional financial burden or unwarranted conditions on the emerging and developing Development is essential for meeting human countries on Official Development Assistance needs and for progress of humankind. To (ODA) and finance required for sustainable reap the benefits of sustainable development, development. therefore, there has be a trade off between development and forest conservation so UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon, referring that forest can contribute meaningfully to to the pledges obtained at the conference, sustainable development in the country. Putting said “These huge numbers give a sense of the

69 ...... NEWS ...... TOURIOSITY NEWS

SpiceJet is all set to start flights to 6 countries by October, 2012 As a part of its expansion plan, SpiceJet Airlines has announced that it will start flights to six more countries, Afghanistan, China, Hong Kong, Saudi Arabia, Maldives and Thailand by the end of October, 2012. The idea is to Touriosity Travelmag is appointed connect to these international destinations from non-metro Media partner of Mountaineering Indian cities. The airlines is at present operating international Expedition flights for Dubai (UAE), Kathmandu (Nepal) and Colombo (Srilanka). Touriosity Travelmag has been appointed as a Media Partner in Afghanistan’s Secret Peaks, a Filming, Mountaineering & Paragliding Expedition 2012 which is aiming at traversing the length of Wakhan Corridor from West to the far East thereby exploring two untouched valleys and to make first ascents on nameless and virgin peaks on the Pamir range. The Tourism Master Plan for North expedition team consists of 6 mountaineers from Eastern Region gets approval Germany, Poland, England and Australia. They are With a view to boosting up tourism in North East India and to attract more foreign tourists, the all set to paraglide over these unexplored valleys Development of North East Region for getting precise aerial view that will help future Ministry of mountaineers. The team will produce a high definition (DoNER), has approved a comprehensive Tourism documentary film on the expedition for telecasting on Master Plan (TMP) for the North Eastern Region various adventure channels worldwide. (NER) jointly prepared by Tata Consultancy Services (TCS) and the North Eastern Council (NEC). It will be implemented in 3 phases over a period of 10 years. Nine inter-state tourism circuits identified in the plan will be developed in first phase. In addition tourism infrastructure will be developed in destinations like Kerala Tourism launches mobile- Kohima (Nagaland), Aizwal (Mizoram), Loktak Lake based services for tourists (Manipur), Nechuka (Arunachal Pradesh), Tawang Kerala Tourism became the first tourism bureau (Assam), Manas (Assam), Tea Tourism (Upper Assam) in India to launch mobile-based tourism services and Umiang Lake (Meghalaya). Special focus will be to help travelers explore destinations without on Eco, Cultural and Adventure Tourism. Emphasis external guides. These guides include WAP will be laid on online tourism portal, private sector guide, applications for Android and Bluetooth participation, promotion of handicrafts, greater air Kiosks. This makes Kerala the first state in connectivity, helipads and airstrips for small aircrafts India to adopt such mobile-based services for in hilly regions, better road connectivity in rural areas the benefit of tourists. These mobile based etc. North Eastern States have been asked to send guides are aimed at saving money and making across proposals for tourism development projects to communication easier. The bureau is trying DoNER for which tenders will be floated later on. to take help of advanced technology for the benefit of tourism industry. Tourists will have all information needed at their finger tips. The smart phone will be able to identify the Monsoon Masti carnival takes off at Ramoji location and show important tourists locations Film city to people. Tour planner option will also be Ramoji Film City is celebrating the onset of monsoon with a available. Tourists will also have share option carnival ‘Monsoon Masti’ that includes fun-filled activities and where they can share pictures and messages entertainment with the magic of cinema. Initially planned to just like in Facebook. The Bluetooth Kiosks set- last for eight weeks, from July 1 to August 15, it has now been up at various places including the international extended to 31st August 2012. It is the time for the entireDuring family this airport will provide comprehensive information to experience an amazing array of non-stop fun. about Kerala tourism. time special Monsoon packages have been made available for tourists. Explore the magical realm of mystery games and spend a pleasure-filled evening with entertainment shows.

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QUIZ

1 Which country is famous for these dolls?

2 What is the name of this famous gate?

3 Which famous European musician lived in this house?

4 Where is this famous monument located?

5 Where is this huge statue of Buddha located in India?

June - July Touriosity Send in your answers with the following details to [email protected] Quiz answers: 1. Full Name 1. Burj-al-Arab, Dubai 2. Complete Address 2. Panthoibi 3. Phone number 3. Haryana 4. Colour passport size photo 4. Shyam Rai temple, Bishnupur 5. Fascinating world, beckoning The first three correct entries will get attractive gifts. Names and photos of winners places will also be published in the next issue.

71 SNAPSHOTS

Forest Museum in Port Blair There is a Forest museum in Port Blair, Andaman and Nicobar Islands. The Indian union territory on the Bay of Bengal is known for its thick forests. Around 200 varieties of trees grow here, out of which about 35 are commercially used. For all those tourists who take active interest in forests, the Forest Museum has been opened by the Forest Department here. Various models have been displayed to show all types of forest activities here including those undertaken by the Forest Department. The idea is also to educate visitors on the various types of trees and timber grown here and their utility. In the museum, there is a collection of various decorative items and show pieces made from different types of reputed timber locally available like Pedauk, Marblewood, Oak, Peauma, Satinwood and Gurjan. This museum also demonstrates the lumbering methods used in the islands’ forests. The museum is located close to the zoo at Haddo, Port Blair. It remains closed on Sundays and national holidays. The open timings are from 8 AM to 12 noon and then from 2 PM to 5 PM. Port Blair is well linked by sea and Air with all metros and major cities of India.

Tribal Museum in Pune City dwellers are ever curious about culture and lifestyle of tribal people. With the duel aim of meeting this curiosity and preserving the tribal culture and tradition, the Tribal Museum of Pune was constructed. It focuses on the Maharashtrian tribes only and displays articles used by various such communities in their day to day lives including ornaments, clothes, utensils, musical instruments, weapons etc. Models have been prepared to depict their day to day lives. There are also pictures and artifacts made by these tribal people that reflect their culture and tradition. One also finds here various facts, documentation and pictures of customs and beliefs of the tribal communities of Maharashtra. Because of all these, the museum is an important place of visit for not only the tourists, but also academicians, historians, researchers and archeologists. It takes the visitors on a tour of the unknown and unexplored world of the tribes. The Tribal Museum is located in the Queen’s Road in Pune, Maharashtra. It is open to the visitors between 10.00 am and 5.00 pm everyday.

Zoo Safari Park in Hyderabad While many people cannot afford to visit dense forests due to various reasons like age, finance, lack of companion, fear etc., it is definitely possible to see the wild animals in an ‘almost’ natural habitat within the limits of the city. The Nehru Zoological Park in Hyderabad is one such place where a visitor can have the rare pleasure of a safari. While the Asiatic lions dominate 30 acres of savannah grassland and rocky plateaus in the safari park, about 42 acres of dense shrubs are made available to tigers. Huge walls have been built all around the safari park to ensure that the wild cats do not escape to the city. Apart from these two felines, there are also sloth bears often seen on trees, bison, black bucks, Chinkaras, Nilgai and the Chousingha, the only four horned antelope. The safari can be booked at the ticket counter of the Zoological Park and safari vehicles provided are mini vans with a capacity of about 20 people. The windows are covered with nets to ensure safety of visitors. The vehicle takes the visitors to covered safari park area inside the zoological garden which are protected by double gates to avoid the risk of the carnivores coming out of their habitat. There are two zones one for the carnivores and the other for the herbivores and the two are separated by two strong iron gates in between to ensure that the predators do not venture into the territory of the prey. The safari lasts for 30 – 45 minutes and is really popular with kids. The animals come very close to the safari vehicle and it is not unusual to come across tigers and lions sitting and relaxing in the middle of the road here. Similar types of safaris are also available in the Nandankanan Zoological Park or Nandankanan Zoo in Bhuvaneshwar, Odisha. The most common wild cats one comes across here are the Asiatic Lions and White Tigers.

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Eco Tourism at Jhargram It might sound like a stereotyped opinion, but India is definitely one of the most unique countries in the world with its socio cultural and economic diversification. Since ages, people from all over the world have been attracted to this enigmatic land. The country is rapidly witnessing growth and development. One such fast growing sector in India is tourism and one of its offshoots that is increasingly bringing more tourists from across the globe is ecotourism. Ecotourism as an industry has developed in India in the past few years. The idea is to promote tourism in such a way that it does not disturb the delicate ecosystem and still generates considerable revenue. Realizing the importance of eco-tourism globally, Kolkata based MPS Group recently took some important initiatives to create eco-tourism circuits and promote the same in West Bengal. After their initial experience at Jhargram, the Group has added new infrastructure and brought in professionalism in the style of functioning, thus providing the best possible service to the clients. Currently, MPS Eco- Tourism resort is located at Jhargram in West Bengal. It emblems a fast growing, professionally managed, cluster of beautiful resorts located in serene surroundings of a remote village. Jhargram is the sub-divisional town in the western part of West Midnapore district of West Bengal. It has lush Green beautiful areas in a near zero pollution atmosphere through modern orchards and vast expanses of greenery into deep forestry that can be a memorable experience. Nature’s bounty can be very well experienced in the multiple Horticulture and Herbal Projects. Jhargram seems to be heaven’s halt for the nature lovers with bountiful forests of Sal and Mehul and presence of deer and birds. Few enticing spots of tourist attraction nearby are the Deer Park (about 3 kms from Jhargram) where different types of wild animals and birds are found, Salboni, named after large Sal trees and Belpahari, where the Tarafeny river with its rippling water is the main attraction. MPS Resort offers an array of amenities to suit one’s social and family needs. It organizes some eco- events like rain dance, boating, bon fire with bar-b-que, etc. But perhaps the center of attraction is the Tribal Dance here. With aboriginal tribes like the Santhals, Bhumijs, Lodhas and Mundas cohabiting here, Jhargram is a true treasure house of Tribal dances. The bodies swaying and hands clapping in the rhythm of drum-beats makes for a delightful visual treat. It speaks a lot about their tribal culture. They show their social performances, religious rites and rituals through their dances and a spectator is naturally delighted. MPS is also planning to add new features to the existing eco-tourism resort, some of them being Cave House, Island House, Boat house, Club House, Ropeway, Water Park, Hanging Bridge, Floating Restaurant, Sauna Bath, Organic Herb Therapy, Natural Spa, and Steam Bath etc. Lately, MPS is also targeting the corporate sector in a big way. It’s ecotourism resort at Jhargram offers excellent conferencing facilities in natural surroundings. To further facilitate booking of the resorts, several private tour operators have been appointed to book rooms for this resort. To visit here, one can take a train from Kolkata (Howrah station) to Jhargram (176 kms) and after getting down at the station there take an auto that will directly take visitors to the Resort. It is also possible to drive to Jhargram from Kolkata via the 2nd Hoogly bridge.

Origin of Black Forest Cake Black Forest cake is definitely of German origin and called Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte in German which literally means Black Forest cherry cake. This multiple layered chocolate cake with loads of whipped cream and cherries between each layer is a favourite with many since the past century. However, it did not originate from the Black Forest (Schwarzwald) region of Germany, contrary to popular belief. The naming of the cake also has nothing to do with Germany’s mystic Black Forests. Rather the name comes from Kirschwasser (liquor made from cherries) that originates from this area and is known as Schwarzwälder Kirschwasser. It is the special flavour of this liquor that goes into the cake to add a unique taste to it. Now- a-days, however, this liquor has been replaced by many others including rum in the cake’s recipe in many areas while in some parts of the world it is also prepared without any alcohol. A confectioner named Josef Keller is said to have invented this cake in its present day form in a Café in Bonn, Germany in 1915 quite far away from the Black Forest. The Black Forest cake however shot to fame worldwide more than three decades later when it was given a prominent position in a list of Most Popular German cakes.

73 Fascinating world, beckoning places….

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DESTINATION EAST A date with Nature at Jaldapara National Park Pratiti Moulik, Kolkata

Jaldapara National Park is situated to the east of the Teesta river, also called the Dooars Region of Eastern Himalayas. In May, 2012, the park was elevated to the status of ‘National Park’ from the previous ‘Wild Life Sanctuary’. The park is fed by rivers Torsa (from north to south), Malangi (from east to west), and five rivulets Hollong, Buri Torsa, Chirakhawa, Sisamara and Gorumara. It is a part of Dooars Forest belt along with Gorumara National Park, Buxa Tiger Reserve, Chilapata Jungle, Chapramari Wildlife Sanctuary, Suntaley Khola forest, Patlakhawa Forest and Khairbari Forest. Jaldapara National Park has currently an area of 216.51 sq kms and is home to 155 rhinos, 6 Bengal tigers, 240 species of birds, wild elephants, eight species of turtles, gaurs (Indian bison), deer, barking deer, wild boars, leopard, reptiles and insects. The tall trees and the grass lands here are enchanting. The uniqueness of Jaldapara is its population of the Great Indian One Horned Rhinos. In terms of rhino population, it is next only to the Kaziranga National Park. The region sees movement of elephants and gaurs from one jungle to another. However due to the tea gardens and human

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In May, 2012, the park was elevated to the status of ‘National Park’ from the previous ‘Wild Life Sanctuary’.

the best place to stay at Jaldapara. It is like staying as nature’s guest deep inside the forest. At day time, the lodge garden, overlooking a small stream and a salt pit, is a good place to unwind and spot the birds flying in and out. With night fall, many animals come near the premises of the bungalow. The sounds of animals in the darkness and their sightings settlement, Gorumara National Park is cut under the spotlights make for an experience off from Jaldapara for the animals to migrate that renders the stay unforgettable and unique. easily. The National Highways and train tracks Jaldapara Tourist Lodge is the best place to also restrict movement of animals here. The stay along with children. It accommodates Tiger is the only predator of rhino in this part. more people than the Hollong Tourist Lodge 2 This area is a prime habitat of elephants which and has a dormitory. The guests staying at 1 move in herds. The National Park remains Hollong lodge have the first right to the 3 closed between June 15 and September 15, Elephant safari in the early morning followed being the breeding season of the animals, for by the guests of Jaldapara Tourist Lodge and 1. Elephant safari heavy rains and flooding of rivers. Malangi Wilderness Resort. If any surplus seat is available, that can be availed of by tourists 2. One horned rhino There are many private hotels from Chalsa to staying at other places. The jeep ride however Madarihat. They are only viable for a sudden 3. A baby elephant is available to all. But the elephant ride is a last minute decision to visit without any plan. must do while at Jaldapara. Hollong Tourist Lodge and Jaldapara Tourist Lodge are booked three months in advance at There are five elephants every day, each taking the West Bengal Tourism Department Office at four tourists on its back for a half hour tour. It Kolkata. Hollong Tourist lodge is undisputedly is, however, possible to take children up to 5 or

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6 years of age on lap. The elephants take the storied structures are so made so that men can come more in search for tender shoots and visitors directly inside the jungle to where there stay at night safely. One can appreciate, enjoy number of sightings are high. The summer is are no pathways. The mahouts are the guides. It and observe the tranquility of the place from hot and humid, the winter is chilling. is advisable to wear closed shoes during elephant the watch towers. Binoculars are a must to view safari to avoid risk of it falling off in the middle animals, mainly deer, rhinos, gaurs and birds. How to go: of the journey. The branches of the tall trees While staying at Jaldapara, one must enjoy both By Air: Nearest Airport is Bagdogra the elephant and Jeep safari. Each has its own come over the body as the elephant creates its By Train: Nearest rail station is Madarihat (9 flavour. own road out of nowhere. The elephants move kms away). The other stations located close over the water bodies and spread out in search Booking for stay: For booking stay at Hollong by are New Jalpaiguri, Siliguri, Falakata and of animals. Rhinos, barking deer, peacocks, Tourist Lodge and Jaldapara Tourist Lodge one Hasimara. wild boars and birds are the most seen. One has to call West Bengal Tourism Department must be careful of occasional big ants dropping Office (ph. 033-22254723). Booking has to be By Road: From Siliguri (75 kms. away) by down from the trees. The jeep safari takes the done three months in advance. NH31 and NH31C via picturesque Coronation tourists to three watch towers overlooking the Best time to visit: October to March is the best bridge, Dam Dim, Mal Bazaar, Chalsa, Birpara vast savanna of tall elephant grass. There are in time to visit Jaldapara. In October and March and Madarihat. Bus and hired vehicles are all twelve watch towers in this park. The three when new elephant grass grows, the animals available. Madarihat is the nearest bus stop.

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1. Jaldapara Watchtower 2. Sambhar deer 3. Safari elephants ready to take tourists for a ride 4. Scenic view inside the park 5. Safari vehicle

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Nearby Attractions Totopara: One can meet the original forest river Raidak. Buxa Fort, used as a detention There are many places of interest nearby. people of the region, the primitive Toto tribe camp for freedom fighters during British rule, at Totopara, 30 km from Jaldapara National is another tourist spot here. South Khairbari Tiger and Leapard Rescue Park beside Torsha River. Still untouched by Jayanti River: It is a remote picnic spot. The Center: In this rehabilitation center and park, the civilization, the vulnerable tribe is getting view of the Bhutan Hills on one side and the rescued tigers and leopards are kept in natural smaller in size with time. surroundings. The injured animals are taken Buxa Reserve Forest on the other and the flow care of and later released back. The park has a Gorumara National Park: Unending Tea of the mountain river Jayanti over rocky bed, number of birds too. Gardens on one side, this eco tourism make for a good retreat. destination has its own elephant and jeep Malangi Wilderness Resort at Baradabari: Jhallong: The gargling of the Jaldhaka river safari rides. The flora and fauna are like This is an eco-tourism resort 12 kms from water flowing over the rock bed, the hills and Jaldapara. The watch Towers are unique and Madarihat set up by West Bengal Forest the migratory birds makes the place unique. different from the Jaldapara Watch Towers. Department. The Murti River is a good picnic spot. One can Bindu: A quiet picturesque hilly village gives a Chilapata Jungle camp and Chilapata collect souvenirs and forest products here. lovely view of Jaldhaka river as it gorges down Sanctuary: Between 15 - 17 September the lower Kalimpong hills. The landscape view Buxa Duar: The Forest is near the Bhutan every year an eco-tourism festival is organized of Jhallong from Bindu is gorgeous. Beyond the Border and the presence of army is prominent. here. There are eco guides available who give Hydro electric project on Jaldhaka is Indo-Bhutan It is a tiger Reserve. The road to the Buxa guided tour in the jungle. The ruins of fort border. There are a number of trekking options Reserve is tricky because road crosses the of Nal Kings here are archeological treasure here. but not well maintained. This dark dense river beds which see flash floods often. The green belt between Jaldapara and Buxa is an construction of a new road is in progress and is Samsing, Suntalay khola: The Samsing and important corridor for the big herbivores. It is likely to come up soon. One can view wildlife, Suntaley khola is abode of beauty and a less- part of a bigger corridor for elephants from after taking on spot permit, from watch trodden wonder. The valley, mountains, mountain Mechi in Nepal to Sankosh in Assam. towers. One can go till Bhutan Ghat beside rivers and forest and tea gardens blend to give a

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visual treat. The wooden hanging bridge and orange orchards are a must see. Phuentsholing, Bhutan: It gives an opportunity for the Indian day visitors to enter the town and leave within the day hours without permit. The tea gardens and smooth roads make the journey pleasant. The Bhutanese architecture, Buddhist temple and Crocodile Breeding center are the tourist interest here.

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1. Elephant safari 2. Inside the forest area 3. Peahen 4. A herd of Gaurs (Indian Bison) 5. One horned rhino

For hiring cars in Jaldapara at affordable rates, call Gouranga Travels (9732441481) and Blue Bird Tour & Travels (9733141091)

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The UNESCO World Heritage

Sundarban Bratati Choudhury, Kolkata

Mauryan Emperor Ashoka was perhaps the first ruler in history to undertake animal conservation initiatives. It was he, who had realised for the first time that wild animals need a safe haven for their livelihood. And hence sanctuaries are important. Inscriptions on the stone edicts dating back to the period of his reign bear adequate testimony to his concern for animals. Centuries elapsed since the Emperor’s reign and his edicts were forgotten. In course of time, hunting of animals became an important source of entertainment for the royals. Simultaneously smuggling and animal trade across the border also gained popularity. This led to the extinction of many species and reduction in number of animals over the years. Wild animals are the valuable treasure of our country and with a view to arrest these unethical trade in and killing of animals various Wild life Conservation Acts have been enacted from

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1. Bade Miyan or Dakhin Rai for the local populace 2. Launch to Sundarban 3. Black capped kingfisher

time to time. Consequently many Sanctuaries, National Parks for wild animals and Tiger Reserves have also come up across the country. The objectives are three-fold, viz., conservation of wild life, establishment and preservation of wild life habitat and attracting the foreign tourists. In West Bengal there are few Sanctuaries and the forest attraction nearest to Kolkata is the Sundarbans. Spread across an area of 4,264 sq. kms., it is situated at the estuary of rivers like Ganga, Brahmaputra and Meghna thereby forming the largest estuarine delta in the world. Sundarban is covered by a large number of mangrove trees and the mangrove forest here is also one of the largest in the world. The enchanting beauty of Sundarban casts a mysterious spell. For those in love with nature, the attraction of Sundarban is unparalleled. It is home to the Royal Bengal tiger. Because of the variety of wildlife found here, coupled with the unique natural beauty, Sundarban was declared a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1974, a wildlife sanctuary in 1977 and a national park in 1984. For conservation of the Royal Bengal Tiger, this sanctuary has been registered as a Tiger Project. As a result, the population of tigers here have marked an increase. ‘Dakkhin Rai’, ‘Banbibi’ and ‘Bade Miyan’ are the common names of the Royal Bengal Tiger among the local populace here. It is said that some British officer had first coined the name ‘Royal Bengal Tiger’ and this is how the mighty king of this jungle came to be better known to the rest of the world by this name. One of the rarest of sights in Sundarban is that of the tiger swimming in water. Compared to the tigers of other forests, the Royal Bengal tigers are known to be exceptionally good fighters in water as well as on land. At Sundarban, it is not unusual to spot it swimming across the rivers carrying its prey on its back.

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The rivers of Sundarban are also home to ferocious crocodiles and gharials and Indian dog sharks, locally called ‘Kamot’. They are not afraid of the King of the jungle, and if they come face to face with each other, a fierce battle would naturally follow where anyone can emerge as the winner. Another attraction of Sundarban is viewing the migratory birds that come here from faraway lands and build their nests during the months of June to October every year and this time of the year, the air of Sundarban is filled with the chirping sounds of birds. Storks, grey herons, black-headed Ibis, kingfishers, white crows, parrots, cormorants, open-billed storks, common mynahs, jungle crows, pariah kites, swamp partridges, paradise flycatchers, spot-billed pelicans, parakeets, egrets, seagulls, woodpeckers and falcons that migrate from all across the globe and build their nests in Goran (Ceriops decandra), Sundari (Heritiera littoralis), Gewa (Excoecaria agallocha), Keora (Sonneratia apetala), Hogla (Typha elephantina Roxb) and Hetal (Phoenix paludosa) trees in the beautiful Sundarban. In addition, one can also find here a variety of colourful butterflies. It is also home to numerous venomous snakes. Monocled Cobra, Indian cobra, Golden flying snake and green vine snake are the common varieties. One also finds here estuarine Crocodiles, Gangetic Dolphins and Snubfin dolphins. There is also an abundance of tortoises and turtles of many species, the common ones being marine turtles like Olive Ridley, Green Sea Turtle and Hawksbill Turtle. Sundarban is also home to thousands

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1. Mangrove forest 2. Crocodile at Sundarban 3. A kite flying away with a fish

of Chital deer. It is truly an area full of natural Harinbhanga in Sundarban. On the bank of biodiversity. river Sudannakhali, there is a watch tower, There are numerous rivers, rivulets and canals the road to which is partly surrounded by in Sundarban and innumerable islands of all water and partly by forest. There is a sweet sizes and shapes. The mangrove forests is water pond underneath the tower where spread across the banks of tidal estuarine wild animals often come to quench their rivers like Muriganga, Saptamukhi, Thakuran, thirst. It is also possible to view tigers drinking Matla, Vidya, Gonna, Jhilla, Raimangal and water from here. There are watch towers in

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Sajnekhali, Netidhopani, Haldibari, Burirdabri and in Gazikhali also. During the months from September to March, the West Bengal Tourism Department organises a variety of Sundarban tours. Visit to Sundarban is a lifetime experience. It is a beautiful place surrounded by Sundari trees. And if one wants to see the people who have, for generations, perennially fought for their survival against the mighty Royal Bengal tigers and the venomous snakes, a visit to Sundarban is a must.

General Information How to go: Canning is the gateway to Sundarban. Trains to Canning are available from the Sealdah station in Kolkata. Apart from Canning, Sundarban is also accessible from Kakdwip, Ghosaba, Namkhana, Basanti and Raidighi. Buses regularly ply between Kolkata and these places. One can find these buses from Esplanade area. From these places one can take a speed boat and make a tour around Sundarban. Launches are also available for hire.

Where to stay: Pakhirala is a small village with many small and big stay options of various budgets. Apart from this, there is also Sajnekhali Tourist Lodge for which advance booking has to be done at the WB Tourism Office at 2, Brabourne Road, Kolkata – 700001 (Ph : 033-2225 4723 / 4724).

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Best time to visit: Winter season is the best Hindus and Muslims take part irrespective of any time to visit Sundarban. For those willing to religious consideration. Taking part in these 2 3 visit Pakhiralaya for bird viewing, the ideal celebrations is a unique thing to experience. 1 time will be between the months of June and September. Handy tips: It is advisable to bring in snacks and basic necessities while visiting Sundarban. Other attractions: With a good launch facility, 1. Royal Bengal tiger swimming one can even make a trip to the Bay of Bengal. Permissions: For entry and photography in 2. Local women in the mangrove forest Also, every year, on the last Tuesday of the Sundarban, permissions have to be taken from 3. Spotted deer Bengali month of Baishakh (sometime in mid- the Forest Department. Permission is given *The author is working with the West Bengal Forest May), the festival of ‘Banbibi’, the presiding deity by the Field Director, Tiger Reserve, Canning, Department. **Photos by Vinod Kumar Yadav, Sarasij Chakraborty of the forests is held wherein local people, both South 24 Parganas (Ph: 03218-255280). and West Bengal Tourism Department

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Sarasij Chakraborty, Kolkata

A yellow wasp in Botanical Garden, Kolkata

An Ibis at the Purbasthali Bird sanctuary

Holly Blue butterfly in Buxa, West Bengal

Garden lizard in Buxa, West Bengal

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Hoopoe bird, Kolkata

Mating of butterfly in Botanical Garden, Kolkata

Largetail Nightjar in Chintamoni Kar Bird Sanctuary

Red backtail grasshopper in Red Crested Bulbul Chintamoni Buxa, West Bengal Kar Bird Sanctuary

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Gir - The last home of Asiatic lion Sanghamitra

The Gir forest of Gujarat is home to the Asiatic lion (Panthera leo persica) which is an endangered subspecies of lions. In fact, today, this mammal is found only in Gir, and accordingly, it has been aptly named ‘the last home of the Asiatic lion’. At some point in history, it was widely found in Northern Africa, Asia Minor and Arabia. Hunting of lions was regarded as a heroic deed and trophies were won for killing them. By the last quarter of the 19th century, it disappeared from the rest of the world, leaving a sole hope with Gir. Even here, there were a handful of them, an effect of rampant killing and devastating famines. The continuous pressure of human habitation had also forced it’s habitat to shrink in size. The then Nawab of Junagadh, a hunter himself, became the savior. In early 1900s, when he came to know that little more than a dozen of the wild cat are surviving, he declared a ban on their hunting.

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Over the years conservation efforts of the government has shown increasingly positive results and the count of Asiatic lions has gone up from a handful to a few hundreds over the last half decade. And with a population of almost 300 leopards here, Gir is one of the main concentrations of felid species in India.

His efforts in preserving the felis received much is in Amreli district of Gujarat. The Gir National appreciation from the Centre post Independence Park and Wildlife Sanctuary is a dry deciduous and the ban on hunting lions was continued. forest consisting of teak trees and evergreen and Subsequently, Gir was declared a National Park semi-evergreen grasslands and shrubs. It is fed 2 and a Sanctuary. Over the years conservation by seven rivers viz., Hiran, Shetrunji, Datardi, 1 efforts of the government has shown increasingly Shingoda, Machhundri, Godavari and Raval. It 3 positive results and the count of Asiatic lions has spreads over an area of 1,412 sq. kms. Apart gone up from a handful to a few hundreds over from these rivers, there is the Kamleshwar Dam the last half decade. And with a population of which is known as ‘the lifeline of Gir’. It is home 1. The last wild cats of Gir almost 300 leopards here, Gir is one of the main to a large crocodile population. 2. Blackbucks concentrations of felid species in India. Both tigers and lions are regarded as top big 3. Lesser Flamingo Gir, also known as Sasan-Gir, is located 60 kms cats in their respective territories. But while the from Junagadh and 60 kms from Amreli and gradual decline in the number of tigers in India 80% of the forest area is in Junagadh while 20% raises a national alarm and concern amongst all,

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1. Asiatic Lion, Gir National Park 2. Sloth bear 3. Demoiselle crane

the low count of the Asiatic lion and its existence and a rail track crossing the forest which puts and livestock as a possible location. It is 1,000 in only one forest in India gets much less focus a question mark on the safety of animals here. kms away. The suggestion was to prepare a than it deserves. As against 1706 tigers across In some villages outside the sanctuary, there prey base here for six to eight adult Asiatic India (as per the 2011 Tiger census) spread across are limestone mines and a cement factory. This lions and lionesses with their young ones, who many forest reserves in India, there are only is polluting the natural habitat of the Asiatic will be brought here once it is ready. It meant about 400 Asiatic lions and that too confined to lion and forest resources like water which is so first relocating the villagers who lived here and Gir sanctuary. essential especially during the dry months of accumulating sufficient prey for the lions to feed Gujarat, are being wasted. Absence of water on. However, the process of implementation of It has been debated that a few of the Asiatic in the sanctuary compels the animals to come the translocation proposal met with opposition lions should be translocated to other forest areas out of the protected area in search of water. from the people and Gujarat Government. in India, in order to increase the chances of their They have been heard to have ventured into They were reluctant to part with the “pride of survival. Although Gir Forest is well protected, the coastal area. It is also believed that the Gujarat” and suggested that if translocation has there are stray instances of poaching. Threats increase in the number of lions in Gir is beyond to be done, it could be done to some place within like natural calamities, fires and epidemics are its capacity to accommodate. The Gir Protected Gujarat itself. Further it was opined that Kuno also there. A canine distemper epidemic that area is little more than half the original size as Reserve forest is home to tigers and in a forest hit the Serengeti National Park of Tanzania in after independence. Naturally, the wild cats are tigers and lions cannot co-exist. Introducing an early 1990s took the life of about 1000 lions. moving out in search of more land. animal in an entirely new environment is also not If something like that ever happened in Gir, an easy task. which is much smaller in area with much lesser An alternative habitat for the lions was proposed lion population, it could result in total extinction more than a decade back in 1995. Out of the Credit definitely goes to the Gujarat government of the endangered species. In addition, the three alternatives suggested by experts at the in successfully increasing the number of Asiatic increasing number of visitors to the 3 temples Wildlife Institute of India (WII), the Ministry of lions from a few dozens. But one has to think and 23 shrines within the protected area of Gir Environment and Forests chose the Kuno reserve in terms of the long term. With a few hundreds raises concern. There are five state highways forest in Madhya Pradesh with sufficient space of an endangered species, concentrated in one

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All about Asiatic Lions

Appearance: The Asiatic lion in appearance, skeletal structure and build is different from its African cousin. It is smaller with a less dense mane but with longer tufts of hair at the end of its tails as compared to the African ones. It grows to an average height of 90 cms, length is between 200 – 275 cms and an additional length of 60 – 90 cms of the tail. The average weight is 200 – 250 kgs.

Life expectancy: Their life expectancy is 20 - 30 years.

Food habit: Asiatic lions mainly feed upon chital, sambhar, antelope, Nilgai and wild boars. Shortage of food also compels them to prey upon livestock of nearby Maldhari villages.

Breeding: Asiatic lionesses breed every two years on an average. They can have babies from the age of 2.5 years to 3 years. They have a gestation period of 3.5 – 4 months and generally have multiple cubs.

Behaviour: Lions generally live in prides with many males and females and one leader. Lions are known to be lazy with kinglike behaviour. Lionesses do the maximum hunting but lions get to relish the prey first. Lionesses exhibit a strong family bond and they stay in the same pride life-long. However, lions are known to venture out.

Hunting technique: Unlike tigers, lions hunt in groups and are known for their expert hunting strategies. They collectively stalk their prey and chase it in a direction where other lionesses wait to catch it. The males generally join only when a big prey is to be killed.

forest, that has shrunk to half its original size, mongooses, civet cats, ratels and spotted cats. needs some serious thinking and planning. The herbivore population mainly consists of 1 2 To avoid the risk of extinction, it is definitely a Chital or spotted deer, Nilgai or blue bull, Sambar, good idea to move out a few lion couples into a Chowsingha or the four-horned antelope, different forest. The argument that co-existence Chinkaras or Indian gazelles, blackbucks, wild 3 of tigers and lions is dangerous, might be true, boars, porcupines and black-naped Indian hare. but they do have their separate territories. Gir is home to around 300 species of birds. There 1. An Asiatic lioness History is witness to co-existence of the two big are scavenger birds including long-billed vulture, cats in the same forest. Lions prefer to live in Indian white-backed vulture, red-headed vulture 2. Spotted Deer dry grasslands, while tigers make dense forest and Eurasian griffon vulture. Other Common 3. Pelicans their home. birds here are endangered lesser florican, a number of eagle species like the crested serpent Fauna of Gir eagle, endangered Bonelli’s eagle, hawk eagle, The fauna of Gir forest mainly comprises of greater and lesser spotted eagle, tawny eagle, carnivores or predators, herbivores or preys, birds, steppe eagle, imperial eagle, Pallas’s fish eagle, reptiles, amphibians and insects. The carnivores grey-headed fish eagle, owl varieties like Brown mainly present are the Asiatic lions, Leopards, Fish Owl, Indian Eagle-Owl, Eurasian eagle Sloth bears, Jungle cats, Striped Hyenas and owl, spotted owlet and others like Pygmy Golden Jackals. Apart from them, there are also Woodpecker and Saras crane. Species like Asian

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crocodiles, tortoises and monitor lizards that Over the years they settled here and grew dominate the water areas. Snakes are present in number. They were given the status of a in plenty and are mainly found in the forests. tribe by the government. Gir area has some Indian Cobras and Pythons are the common villages of the Siddis. Their dances and other variety. There are about 2000 species of insects performances are well known. They have including butterflies. an important shrine called Nagarshi Pir at Jhambur nearby. Tribes around Gir Gir has mainly two tribe population, the Maldhari General Information tribe and the Siddi tribe. Maldharis are the nomadic pastoral group that grazes its livestock How to go within the protected area of Gir forest. They By Air: The nearby airports are Rajkot (160 Kms) have lived in hutments without any basic facility and Diu (110 Kms). The nearest International in this forest area for generations. They have Airport is Ahmedabad (368 kms) co-habited with the lions for many centuries, By Train: Nearest Railway stations are Sasan, much before it was declared a National Park Junagadh (60 Kms ), Rajkot (160 Kms) and and are therefore not willing to leave their Bhavnagar (238 kms). These stations are well ‘home’ to make more place for lions. They live in connected with important cities and towns small traditional settlements and their livestock across India. After reaching these places by include buffalos, cows, camels, sheep and goats. Shortage of food and water often force the wild trains one can travel by road to Gir. paradise flycatcher, Asian brown flycatcher, grey- cats to venture into their settlements and prey By Road: The road distances of major cities and headed flycatcher, tickell’s blue flycatcher, grey on their cattle. They accept it as a natural towns from Gir are Ahmedabad - 408 Kms (7 francolin, quails, black-naped monarch, white- phenomenon. Thousands of Maldharis living hour drive), Rajkot - 160 Kms (3.5 hour drive), browed fantail, greenish warbler, coppersmith inside the sanctuary are proud of the lion and Junagadh - 60 Kms (1.25 hour drive), Keshod barbet, green pigeon, osprey, peregrine falcon, feel happy with its presence around. – 45 kms (1 hour drive), Veraval - 40 Kms (1 red-headed falcon, oriental honey-buzzard, The other tribe here is the Siddi tribe with its hour drive) and Diu - 110 Kms (2 hour drive). white-eyed buzzard and nightjars are also seen. origin in Africa. They had come from African From all these places there are buses and taxis The major population of reptiles is from marsh countries as slaves, labourers and mercenaries. to Gir. Taxi fares have to be bargained.

95 DESTINATION WEST

Where to stay Nearby attractions There are a host of stay options in Gir, ranging Crocodile Rearing Centre – Here crocodile Gir is home to around 300 from budget to luxury ones. The Sinh Sadan Forest hatchling are reared and subsequently released species of birds. There are Lodge and Gir Lodge located within the forest are in the forests. Crocodiles are also there for public scavenger birds including run by the Government Forest department. In these viewing. It is close to Sinh Sadan Lodge. lodges, there are basic amenities. At Sinh Sadan Gir Interpretation Zone (GIZ) – For tourists long-billed vulture, Indian Lodge 15 days’ advance reservation is required. visiting the sanctuary, there is an Interpretation white-backed vulture, red- Online booking is not possible. Demand drafts have Zone within the sanctuary. It has chained headed vulture and Eurasian to be sent for booking. Double Bed Non AC room fences and covers all habitat types and wildlife charges are Rs. 500 per night and AC room charges of Gir. There are feeding-cum-living cages for griffon vulture. are Rs. 1500 per night. There are also 18 – 20 bed carnivores. For entry and exit, there is a double- dormitories available with per bed charges of Rs. gate system. It is located at Devaliya, 12 kms 50. A deluxe dormitory with 12 beds is available from Sasan. for large groups for Rs. 2000. (Ph. 02877285540). 1 2 3 Gir Orientation Centre – It is in the premises of There are also private lodges available. the Sasan Guest House and provides basic fact 1. Lions Best time to visit and scientific information about Gir with the help of photographs, paintings and models. 2. Tenting at Gir The Gir sanctuary is open for tourists from 16th 3. Wild ass October to 15th June. Winter (December – February) Somnath Temple – The famous temple is is a good time to visit. located near Veraval, 40 kms from Gir. It is one

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of the twelve Jyotirlinga shrines of Lord Shiva. This temple was destroyed six times and rebuilt six times.

Junagarh Fort – Some historians believe that this fort was built by Chandragupta Maurya in 320 BC. However, the general belief is that it was built by Rajput kings in the 9th century AD on Upperkot hill. In the fort there are rock edicts from the period of Emperor Ashoka. The fort was besieged 16 times over 800 years time. It is here that the 12 year long war between King Siddharaj Jaisingh of Gujarat and King Ra Khengar of Junagadh over queen Ranakdevi took place in which ultimately the king of Gujarat won but Queen Ranakdevi committed suicide after the defeat of her husband.

Ashoka Shilalekh – A stone edict of Emperor Ashoka dating back to 250 BC is found in between Junagadh and Girnar hills. On a stone of 10 metre height and 7 metres width, the inscription was made with an iron pen in Brahmi script of Pali language. It directs the subjects to practice morality, harmony and tolerance towards others.

Diu Beach, Fort and Church - The Diu Beach is located very close to Gir at Diu and is a picturesque beach retreat. The Diu Fort is located on the coast of Diu and was built in 1535 AD by the Portuguese during their colonial rule here. The Portuguese ruled over Diu for about 425 years, a record length of time for any colonial rule in the world. St. Paul’s Church built by the Portuguese in Diu is a very good example of baroque architecture.

Palitana Jain Temples – These are holy temples of the Swetambara Jain people located close to Gir on Mount Satrunjaya. There are a total of 863 temples carved beautifully in marble with the main temple being located on top of the hill.

Sanctuary Timings and permissions The visit timings for tourists are between sunrise and sunset. Permits are issued by the Reception Center on request and after filling the necessary form on first come first served basis. For getting the permits at 6.30 am, there are people queuing up from 5.00 am. One can also hire guides and vehicles here.

97 PHOTO FEATURE

AFRICAN WILDLIFE Grete Howard

An African lion family relaxing in the savannas Impala, an antelope that is found in plenty in many countries across Africa.

A pair of Masai Giraffes, the tallest land animal found, in Kenya and Tanzania Grant’s Gazelle, one of the gazelle species found in Africa

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African White Backed Vulture

Kori Bustard, native of Africa is the heaviest among all birds capable of flying

Dik Dik, a tiny antelope found in eastern and southern Africa

Zebras and wildebeests

99 Protecting your camera from moisture Atanu Paul, Third Eye

Monsoon is the favourite season of writers and artists. Many lyrics, poems, novels, paintings, sculptures and photographs have been dedicated to this season. However, capturing a beautiful photo on camera in this season can be tricky. At such times, it is possible for a photographer to lose his creativity and concentrate more on how to protect his camera. This explains the reason why Indian Travel photographers and the Creative Photographers have lagged behind to a considerable extent. Moisture is the enemy of camera and its accessories and even a little bit of it can cause rust, corrosion or mildew. One needs to protect the camera from moisture no matter how old or new it is. Is there a way out of this problem? Definitely there is. A few drops of rain can damage a camera. One way out is to buy an Underwater Baby Camera for those monsoon days (and to keep it idle for the rest of the year). The starting price range of such water proof camera is around INR 20,000. Those who are determined to use the same camera for the whole year can follow a simple tip especially for the monsoon season. Polythene or transparent plastic covers can be used to cover up the whole body of the camera. A small hole can be made into it where the lens can be adjusted. This is a very simple way out for the amateurs or the travellers who love taking photos outdoors. For professionals, there is a professional solution to this problem. A bottle of Silica gel can be bought from the chemist shop. Silica gel helps dehumidification and protects your camera and lens from sudden downpours or other water contact. They are not much expensive and can absorb moisture effectively. Silica gel looks like sugar crystals but the colour is deep blue and it can be used year after year. Nowadays Silica gel can be found in different shapes. By absorbing the moisture of the air Silica gel crystals gradually change colour from deep blue to white. When white, it can be heated for some time so that the moisture in the gel vaporises and the colour changes to deep blue again. This way, it is ready for reuse in the same process. The silica gel should be stored in a common transparent vacuum plastic container (those that are commonly used in our kitchens for storage purposes). The vacuum containers need to be transparent so that the colour of the silica gel can be observed from outside without opening the container every time to keep a check. While taking the camera outdoors, the vacuum container containing the gel should be kept on the camera bag and a piece of cloth or handkerchief should be placed over it. The camera needs to be placed above the container in an upwardly manner with the lens facing the top. It keeps the camera, lens and other parts of the camera safe. If the air is moisture free there are limited chances of getting fungus in the lens of the camera. It is advisable that camera should be kept in this way for the whole year as it will extend the longevity of camera. After running THIRD EYE for over 25 years and working in the field of photography for more than 35 years, my experience tells me that cameras should be used often whether you are holding it on your neck or on your shoulder as it also needs the sun rays, otherwise it will be affected by fungus.

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TOURIOSITY TRAVELMAG August - September I 2012 ` 50