[Type text] Northeast : March 2011

Northeast India 14-29 March 2011

Guide: Josh Engel All photos taken on this tour by the guide.

Bar-winged Wren-Babbler at left.

INTRODUCTION Northeast India has been gaining quickly in popularity as a birding destination in recent years. With elevations ranging from 100m along the Brahmaputra River to high Himalayan peaks, this region harbors a diversity of unrivaled anywhere else in Asia. Our tour covers elevations ranging from the lowlands of Nameri National Park to Sela Pass at 4200m, though the real focal point of the tour is the area in between, the remote forests of Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary. The tour extension to Kaziranga National Park not only adds over 100 additional of birds, including a wide variety of waterbirds, raptors, and grassland rarities, but gives the opportunity to visit Asia’s best mammal-viewing park, with its abundance of elephants, rhinoceros, wild buffalo, and deer. (See separate trip report for the Kaziranga extension.) We recorded over 400 species between the main tour and the extension, plus an excellent diversity of mammals. highlights included White-winged Wood Duck, Pied Falconet, Oriental Hobby eating its avian breakfast, Ibisbill, Long-billed Plover, Black-tailed Crake, six owls seen, Slender-billed and Coral-billed Scimitar-Babbler, Blackish-breasted Babbler, Wing- barred and Rufous-breasted Wren-Babblers, Black-headed Shrike-Babbler, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Green Cochoa, spectacular views of Beautiful Nuthatch, male Blyth’s Tragopan, and a Rufous- breasted Partridge feeding calmly on the track in front of our vehicle. We were also lucky enough to see a wild elephant cooling itself in the Jia Bhareli River and to scope a Himalayan palm civet on a night drive in Eaglenest.

TOUR REPORT Straight from the airport in Guwahati we were on our way to our first birding destination, Nameri National Park. The drive took a little longer than expected as we had to detour around a district-wide protest; we arrived at the eco-camp to the calls of Brown Hawk-Owl. The next morning we were up early to start birding in earnest. We picked up a few birds around camp, like Common Hill Myna and Red-breasted Parakeet, but we didn’t linger as we had a date with White-winged Duck to keep. As soon as we crossed the Jia Bhareli River into the park proper, new birds started coming at a rapid pace. Among them were Ruddy Shelducks and Pallas’ Fish- www.tropicalbirding.com 1

[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011

Eagle along the river’s edge and Greater Flameback, Lesser Yellownape, and Golden-fronted Leafbird in the woodlands. Carefully checking secluded ponds for the park’s most alluring avian denizen, the rare White-winged Duck, we flushed a pair from a secluded spot and had great views of their distinctive wing pattern as they flew on to another pond. A young Lesser Adjutant in the same pond was more cooperative. Checking another pond to try for sitting views of the duck, we came across a stunning Pied Falconet which gave us leisurely scope views. Further pond checks yielded one more fleeting glimpse of the duck, as well as a wild boar.

The other main attraction at Nameri is a leisurely boat ride down the river. Besides being great for birds, it’s simply a very pleasant trip down a beautiful tributary of the Brahmaputra. Our main target here was the iconic Ibisbill, and after getting only very distant looks at the site where they had been seen regularly, it was a great relief to get point-blank looks further downriver. Small Pratincole was abundant, a few River Terns showed nicely, and we had great views of both Indian and Great Thick-knees. Sand Lark was elusive¸ but we managed nice views of a bird flying past. A wild elephant enjoying the cool river water was a real bonus.

Pied Falconet (left)—a striking, rare, and diminutive falcon—was a highlight of our visit to Nameri. Small Pratincoles (right) were abundant on our raft trip down the Jia Bhareli River.

We also spent a productive early morning and an afternoon birding around the eco-camp. Owls were definite highlights, including good views of Asian Barred Owlet, Brown Hawk-Owl, and Spotted Owlet. The famous Oriental Hobby pair was conspicuous throughout the day; on two mornings we watched them eat their breakfast—one morning an Olive-backed Pipit, the other an Asian Pied Starling. A Gray-headed Lapwing in the fields behind the lodge was a nice surprise.

We departed early on our final morning to head into the mountains. We did little birding along the busy road to Dirang (though Long-tailed Sibia and Black Eagle put in appearances), but made it in time to slip into the more secluded Sangti Valley for the afternoon. We quickly picked up three new redstarts, including Blue-fronted. We played hide-and-seek with three calling Black-tailed Crakes, but unfortunately they hid better than we sought. Likewise, the Long-billed Plovers that reside nearby were nowhere to be found, but great eye-level views of a Himalayan Buzzard was nice consolation. The time for the crake and the plover would come in a few days time. www.tropicalbirding.com 2

[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011

Our first full day in Dirang was spent going to--and quickly retreating from—the tour’s highest elevation, the 4200m Sela Pass. Unfortunately, the weather scuttled our plans; the wind, fog, and snow drove us to lower elevations. We spent the remainder of the day working our way down from the pass, trying to bird on the lee side of ridges to avoid the day’s strong winds. Given the difficult conditions, the birding was actually pretty good. We picked up some excellent birds, including a mixed flock of (Himalayan) White-browed and (Himalayan) Beautiful Rosefinches, some very cooperative Black-faced Laughingthrushes and Streak-chested Scimitar-Babblers, White-winged Grosbeak, and Ludlow’s Fulvetta. A group of four Tibetan Blackbirds was somewhat of a surprise, although there had been recent sightings in the area. Lower down the mountain the sun was actually shining (though that didn’t stop snow from falling occasionally). There we picked up a number of new birds, including Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird, Black-throated Tit, and Rufous-breasted Accentor, but a calling Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler wouldn’t show. Re-entering the Dirang Valley, a stop along the river produced Brown Dipper and Hodgson’s Redstart. Our day’s last stop in a grove of trees in the valley held our first White-collared Blackbird, Russet Sparrow, and Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher.

Rafting is a good way to get close looks at waterbirds along the Jia Bhareli River. Besides our main target of Ibisbill, we saw Great Thick-Knee (left) and Ruddy Shelduck (right).

For our second full day in Dirang, we ascended the nearby Mandala Road, reaching an altitude of 3500m. Of course, reaching those heights took some time as we made several productive stops along the way. Our first one, in scrub and agriculture, yielded great looks at Laughingthrush, Black-throated (Hill) Prinia, Red-flanked (Himalayan) Bluetail, Brownish- flanked Bush-Warbler, and Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush. Our next stop yielded two new Turdus , both of which posed in the scope, Gray-collared Blackbird and Black-throated Thrush. A mixed flock was also in the area, and among the many birds that responded strongly to a Collared Owlet tape was a brilliant male Fire-capped Tit that gave us great views. Further short stops yielded our first Gold-naped , Rusty-flanked and Hodgson’s (Eurasian) Treecreepers, and an extremely showy Gray-flanked Bush-Warbler. We soon reached the village of Mandala, where our high-altitude birding began with some brilliant White-throated Redstarts on the edge of the settlement. We were soon racking up a number of other great birds, including Red-headed Bullfinch, Gold-billed Magpie, Spotted Nutcracker, and typical mixed flock birds like Ashy- www.tropicalbirding.com 3

[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011 throated Leaf-Warbler and Rufous-vented Yuhina. Just before taking a tea break Lakpa called in a pair of Slender-billed Scimitar-Babblers, showing off why they are among my favorite Himalayan birds as they used their remarkable bill to probe for insects right out in the open. Unfortunately Spotted Laughingthrush singing in the same area remained unseen far down the valley. On our return to Mandala, a pair of Bar-winged Wren- Babblers showed off why they are one of the few wren-babblers suitably described as exquisite, sitting in the open at close range while we admired (and photographed) their stunning (and often unseen) plumage. After lunch we slowly started working our way back down the road. It was soon clear that there were many more good birds to be had in this area. A Darjeeling Woodpecker posed for the scope, and just as I was scoping two cooperative Beautiful Sibias, a female Crimson-browed Finch hopped up to join them in the field of view. A small party of Golden-breasted Fulvettas passed through some dense roadside rhododendrons, giving us enough glimpses to piece them together. We finally made it back to the hotel, tired and satiated.

The wintery scene we encountered at Sela Pass (left). Right: Two of a flock of about twenty Tibetan Serins.

For our final day in the Dirang area, we decided to forego the dust and drive, wind and cold of Sela Pass for another day in the peace and mixed flocks of the Mandala Road. We started the day on the lower parts of the road, where riverside scrub delivered a couple of birds that I generally think of as high altitude denizens, here on their wintering quarters—first a Eurasian Wren, then a stunning male Golden Bush-Robin. Resident birds, of course, were out in force as well, including cracking looks at Pygmy Wren-Babbler, our first good looks at Chestnut- crowned Laughingthrush, and a couple of hyperactive Yellow-bellied Fantail. We even picked up some quality longer-distance migrants in the form of a flock of 20 or more Black-throated and Red-throated Thrushes, including males of both species in the same scope view as they hopped around the road verge. Unfortunately, a Black-headed Shrike-Babbler singing its head off inside the top of a large, densely leafed oak was wholly unresponsive to playback. It was a sunny, beautiful day, but the wind was blustery at times. Indeed, the wind picked up and the birds quieted down as we reached the top. We did add Rufous-winged Fulvetta, followed by further great looks at the beautiful and range-restricted Ludlow’s Fulvetta. Just before lunch we www.tropicalbirding.com 4

[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011 saw a confusing redstart that was likely an immature male of the typically more westerly ranging phoenicuroides subspecies of Black Redstart. The drive back down started out slowly, but when we finally made it out of the wind bird activity picked up considerably. One area had a showy pair of the warbler-like Pygmy Blue Flycatcher. Striated Bulbuls grabbed our attention from the vehicle, and after scoping those we scoped Great Barbet, Scarlet Minivet, Gray-winged Blackbird, Crimson-browed Finch, and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker quick succession practically without moving! Persistence sometimes does indeed pay. Before departing for Eaglenest, we decided to try the Sangti Valley one more time for its key birds: Black-tailed Crake and Long-billed Plover. Arriving to the crake spot, we soon were hearing several individuals calling from below. We scanned and scanned, but saw nothing. Our attention was diverted by other new species for the trip, Long-tailed Shrike and a migrant Yellow-browed Warbler, when Lakpa excitedly called us over. There they were—feeding leisurely on the edge of a paddy, giving brilliant scope views in the early morning light. It was then on to the nearby river, where more carefully scanning revealed many common birds, but not our main quarry. Distracted, we wandered off after pipits and others when once again the call came from Lakpa. Rushing over, the plover had disappeared before we arrived, not to be found again. Dejectedly walking back to the car, Lakpa came through again, spotting a Long-billed Plover standing completely motionless, blending in perfectly with the surrounding rocks. We had great views, and some well-placed rocks provided the perfect cover for a close approach for photos.

Long-billed Plover’s only known breeding site in India is in the Sangti Valley, where we saw this one (left). Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler (right) is one of my favorite birds of the .

It was finally time to set off for Eaglenest, where we would be spending the second half of the tour scouring the beautiful forests for eastern Himalayan specialties and rare forest dwellers. After lunch in Tenga, we forked onto the dirt track that would take us into and through the wildlife sanctuary. Our birding started as we neared Lama Camp with a Rufous-bellied Eagle soaring over valley. We then got out and walked much of the rest of the way to camp, adding Gray-cheeked and Chestnut-crowned Warblers and Yellow-throated Fulvetta. Just beyond camp, we called in a Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler which we were able to piece together from several www.tropicalbirding.com 5

[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011 quick views. We finished off our birding by spotlighting Gray Nightjar flying around the camp (but always landing somewhere out of view!). We began our first day in Eaglenest hunting—unsuccessfully as it would turn out—for the recently described Bugun Liocichla, a bird only known from the area around Lama Camp. Undeterred, we found lots of other new birds to keep us entertained, starting with two juvenile Red Crossbills feeding on the ground in the middle of camp. A small party of Gray-headed Bullfinches posed for a minute at the top of a tree and we enjoyed watching a beautiful Rufous- bellied Woodpecker rechecking its previously drilled sap holes, with a Beautiful Sibia in tow picking up any leftovers. A group of Rusty-fronted Barwings got our blood pumping, as the liocichla sometimes accompanies them, but today it was not to be. It was a good morning for raptors, with a Mountain Hawk-Eagle cooperatively landing on an exposed perch and a Himalayan Griffon passing overhead while we enjoyed a tea break. After lunch we headed upslope from camp, immediately coming across an excellent mixed flock that contained both Green and Black-eared Shrike-Babblers. Another stop for a flock yielded a surprise in the form of an unusually showy Chestnut-headed Tesia. The pass itself was windy and fogged-in, so we returned downslope, screeching to a halt for an adorable Collared Owlet perched in a roadside tree, completely unbothered by our presence. We again began the day with an unsuccessful liocichla hunt, but we did find a different rarity in the form of a stunning male Black-headed Shrike-Babbler, that after much coaxing sat right out in the open singing for us. We also added Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker and a brilliant male Scarlet Finch. After breakfast, we turned our attention upslope and spent the rest of the day wending our way to Sunderview. We stopped at the pass, which was windy and fog-bound, but managed to call up Spotted Laughingthrush, that sat out nicely singing, showing off its intricate plumage. A small troop of Streak-throated Barwings also showed nicely. Flocks were abundant after the pass, especially flocks of yuhinas and sunbirds thoroughly enjoying a particular tree in bloom with small pink flowers. One of these flocks contained a fog-bound Fire-tailed Myzornis, seen just well enough to make out its green plumage. Another contained three fire-backed male Fire-tailed Sunbirds. A close flock of Fork-tailed (Pacific) Swifts fed under the fog layer. What followed was three full days of birding the incredibly bird-rich forest south of Eaglenest Pass. The lowest reaches of the road have been closed off, making a few species unavailable, but a week could easily be spent birding the area that remains open. We spent one day mostly between Sunderview and Bomphu, another between Bomphu and Sesni, and the final day working our way up from Sesni.

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[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011

A pair of fulvettas: Ludlow’s (Brown-throated) is restricted to the eastern Himalayas; Rufous-winged is more widespread.

The first of these days, at higher elevations, was generally slow going as we fought foggy conditions. There was, however, lots of excitement early on when a Blyth’s Tragopan sang from very close to the road. We went in and spent nearly an hour trying to see it, listening to it sing and scratch in the leaf litter. At one point, I saw just its head sticking up above fallen bamboo. Finally it came out and Gary had the full bird in view for two glorious seconds before the bird became aware of his presence and shot off down the improbably steep slope. Back on the main track, we finally got visuals on Bay Woodpecker, while Broad-billed Warbler showed nicely. A flock of Brown Bullfinches was typically sedentary feeding on buds in a tall tree and we found our first Gray-chinned Minivets, a pair with a mixed flock that we found while exploring an elephant trail off the main track. The day’s other main highlight came on our drive back to camp when the driver screeched to a halt, pointing to something in front of the vehicle. Three partridges! Two ran off immediately, but the third, a gorgeous Rufous-throated Partridge, continued calmly feeding just meters in front of us. It was an extraordinary end to the day. There are not enough superlatives to describe the following day, spent on the lower accessible parts of the road. Without doubt, it was one of my best days of birding in India. The day certainly started out right, when just about our first bird was Blackish-breasted Babbler! Soon after, we picked up a few additional goodies, including an adorable White-browed Piculet and scope views of Long-tailed Sibia. We followed with another mega—incredible views of the bizarre Long-billed Wren-Babbler. Commotion in the understory brought our attention to a large flock of Rusty-fronted Barwings and Silver-eared Mesia, but the real prize was the half-dozen or so Coral-billed Scimitar-Babblers that showed off their striking head pattern and eponymous bill unusually well. We stopped for lunch at Sesni, picking up Sapphire Flycatcher and Mountain Bulbul while we awaited the delivery of our hot picnic lunch. It was a well-deserved rest, but there was business to attend to, and we carried on down the road. Lakpa called out Black-headed Shrike-Babbler, but by the time I set up the scope it had flown. Still, several birds were perched in the top of the tree. Beautiful Nuthatch! We had been trying for it all morning, and there it was when we least expected it. Unfortunately, the bird was rather backlit, so we thought to walk ahead and try for a better view. We took a short detour to get views of some very responsive Slaty-bellied Tesias. Rounding the next bend, we first heard the nuthatch, then it was perfect scope views of one singing, the other feeding just below, in all their blue-streaked glory. www.tropicalbirding.com 7

[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011

It was finally time to start the drive back up from 1200m to camp at 2500m. But we weren’t ready to give up, and almost immediately we stopped for a flock. It was well-timed—four Long- tailed Broadbills were feeding in a fruiting tree at eye level for unusually good views of this incredibly brightly-plumaged . Another stop for Green Magpie and Slaty-backed Forktail. Another for eye-level Mountain Imperial Pigeon. And a final one when a Chestnut- breasted Partridge flew off the track! After the previous very long and satisfying day, we got a little later start this morning. It turned out to make for an interesting comparison—after yesterday’s non-stop action¸ today seemed oddly quiet. Livening things up was a typically rowdy gang of White-crested Laughingthrushes. Just after talking to another birding group lower down the road, their leader came running after us—Green Cochoa sitting up singing! We hurried back and everyone enjoyed scope views of this uncommon species uncharacteristically sitting atop a bare tree, singing its heart out. The Beautiful Nuthatches from yesterday were again in the exact same spot, but this time they had company—one of our day’s main targets, a pair of the bizarre and beautiful Sultan Tit, one of whom was carrying moss in its bill presumably heading towards its nest. We tried for Red- headed Trogon on the way up, finding a bird that very impressively managed to respond aggressively to playback but stay just out of view. This is more that we can say for Ward’s Trogon—similar attempts yielded no response at all.

Two common residents of higher altitude forests in the Himalayas: Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher (left) and Rufous-fronted Tit (right).

Motivated by reports of porcupine on another group’s night drive the previous evening, we set out on our own pre-dinner night drive. It was a quiet, still, slightly foggy evening. Eventually, an owl flew across the road, then immediately back the other direction. It looked like a Himalayan Wood-Owl. Getting out, our suspicion was confirmed, with two calling back in forth from the valley below, but fog blocked any attempts to spotlight them. We turned around at that point. On the way back we stopped for mammal eyeshine. A very obliging was sitting on a branch, its luxurious tail held over its back, calmly staring at us. A little research back at camp revealed it to be a Himalayan palm civet, but for the moment we just enjoyed watching the beautiful creature on a beautiful night in the mountains. www.tropicalbirding.com 8

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Before heading back to Lama Camp for our final night in Eaglenest, we made one last go below Sunderview. An attempt for the Blyth’s Tragopan yielded only a very distant response thirty minutes later. We also got no response from Ward’s Trogon in some of its usual haunts. More obliging was a hyper flock of the wonderfully charismatic Black-throated Parrotbills (now split as Orange-eared Parrotbill) amidst a large understory flock containing Rufous-winged and Yellow-throated Fulvettas, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, and Rufous-capped and Golden Babblers. We also enjoyed watching a Crested Goshawk displaying over the forest. After packing up the vehicle, we made our way back over the pass to Lama Camp. Before reaching the pass, we got brief views of another Fire-tailed Myzornis for the half of the group that hadn’t seen it previously, though it disappeared rather quickly. We devoted the afternoon to another liocichla search. Once again, no liocichla. We had one final morning to devote to our liocichla quest. Despite three birding groups scouring the area, again not a peep! We did see our first Cutias, a fantastic flock that we found three times as we worked up and down the road, accompanied by, among others, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker and White-browed Shrike-Babbler. Ward’s Trogon was calling far below Lama Camp, but wouldn’t come any closer. Just as we were about to leave the area, a small flock of barwings got our hopes up (yet again!), but we had to settle for great views of a nearby group of Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbills (now split as White-breasted Parrotbill), before departing for our overnight in Bhalutpong. We stopped for a walk along a forested river as we dropped in elevation, improving on our earlier brief views of Slaty-backed Forktail, before arriving at our hotel and its lack of much-anticipated hot water. Finally, it was time for the grand finale at Kaziranga. See the Kaziranga trip report for details. TRIP LIST follows the latest update of The Clements Checklist of Birds of the World (2007), available here . Alternate names, mostly from Rasmussen and Anderton (2005; Birds of South Asia: The Ripley Guide ) are in parentheses. Conservation status follows Birdlife International: CR=Critically Endangered, EN=Endangered, VU=Vulnerable, NT=Near-threatened. H=Heard only.

Lesser Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna javanica Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus Good views of a pair during our rafting trip at Nameri. Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea White-winged Duck (EN) Cairina scutulata A pair flushed from an area of the pond that we unfortunately couldn’t see; we nonetheless had nice flight views of their striking wing pattern. Green-winged Teal Anas crecca Common Merganser Mergus merganser Hill Partridge (H) Arborophila torqueola Chestnut-breasted Partridge (VU) Arborophila mandellii An extremely difficult species to see, we flushed one off the track in Eaglenest. Rufous-throated Partridge Arborophila rufogularis www.tropicalbirding.com 9

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Another tough one to see, this one was outrageously cooperative, feeding calmly in front of the vehicle in the evening on the track in Eaglenest. Blyth's Tragopan (VU) Tragopan blythii A stunning male that we called in to close range was seen by just half the group. An incredibly shy bird. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus Gray Peacock-Pheasant (H) Polyplectron bicalcaratum Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans Black Stork Ciconia nigra Lesser Adjutant (VU) Leptoptilos javanicus Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger Little Egret Egretta garzetta Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Indian Pond-Heron Ardeola grayii Striated Heron Butorides striata Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus Black Kite Milvus migrans Pallas's Fish-Eagle (VU) Haliaeetus leucoryphus Nesting along the Jia Bhareli River in Nameri, seen during our rafting trip. Himalayan Griffon Gyps himalayensis One seen flying over a ridge in Eaglenest. Crested Serpent-Eagle Spilornis cheela Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus Besra Accipiter virgatus Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Common (Himalayan) Buzzard Buteo (burmanicus) buteo Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis Rufous-bellied Eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii Mountain Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus nipalensis Pied Falconet Microhierax melanoleucos A definite highlight of the tour was great views this diminutive raptor just after seeing White-winged Duck in Nameri. Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Oriental Hobby Falco severus We frequently saw the resident pair sitting in their favorite tree at Nameri Eco-camp. The first morning I watched it eat a pipit (probably Olive-backed), the next morning we watched it eat an Asian Pied Starling. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus One seen streaking across the Jia Bhareli River while we looked for Ibisbill. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Black-tailed Crake Amaurornis bicolor A beautiful pair was scoped in the Sangti Valley on our second attempt at this rare www.tropicalbirding.com 10

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rallid. Eurasian (Indian) Thick-knee Burhinus (indicus) oedicnemus Heard at night at Nameri Eco-camp and seen roosting along the Jia Bhareli River on our rafting trip. Also called Indian Stone-Curlew. Great Thick-knee Esacus recurvirostris Also seen while rafting on the Jia Bhareli River. One was seen in flight being mobbed by Small Pratincole. River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii Gray-headed Lapwing Vanellus cinereus One was seen in the fields behind Nameri Eco-camp. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus Long-billed Plover Charadrius placidus Our local guide Lakpa really showed off his skills spotting this rare plover sitting completely motionless in a large expanse of rocks exactly the same color as the bird at the very last second before we were leaving the area for good. To top it off, there was a conveniently placed pile of rocks in front of the bird that allowed me to sneak up on it for photos. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii Our main target on the rafting trip, after distant scope views we got very close views as we went through some small rapids. We had great views, but photography was difficult! Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii Jack Snipe Lymnocryptes minimus We were surprised to flush one in a field near Nameri Eco-camp. Small Pratincole Glareola lactea Dozens, if not hundreds, seen on our rafting trip on the Jia Bhareli River. River Tern Sterna aurantia Rock Pigeon Columba livia Oriental Turtle-Dove Streptopelia orientalis Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia unchall Yellow-footed Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus Pin-tailed Pigeon Treron apicauda Green Imperial-Pigeon Ducula aenea Mountain Imperial-Pigeon Ducula badia Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri Large Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis www.tropicalbirding.com 11

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Brown Fish-Owl Ketupa zeylonensis One was seen sitting on a branch over a forested pond in Nameri. Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei Fantastic views of one on an open branch next to the road in Eaglenest. Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides Many good looks in and around Nameri. Spotted Owlet Athene brama One seen very well in the fields behind Nameri Eco-camp. Himalayan Tawny Owl Strix aluco Seen flying across the track in front of the vehicle on our night drive in Eaglenest. We then got out of the car and heard two countersinging, a wonderful sound on a very dark night. Brown Hawk-Owl Ninox scutulata Heard frequently and seen a couple of times around Nameri Eco-camp. Gray Nightjar Caprimulgus indicus Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus One flushed a couple of times during the day along the edge of the Jia Bhareli River while we searched for White-winged Duck. Himalayan Swiftlet Aerodramus brevirostris Fork-tailed Swift Apus pacificus House Swift Apus nipalensis Asian Palm-Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis Red-headed Trogon (H) Harpactes erythrocephalus Heard at extremely close range, yet entirely out of view in Eaglenest. No matter how creative we were with playback, it just wouldn’t come out. Ward's Trogon (NT) (H) Harpactes wardi Very elusive this year, with just a single distant bird heard near Lama Camp. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops Great Hornbill (NT) (H) Buceros bicornis One was heard above our tents at Nameri Eco-camp. Fortuantely, we saw one on the extension in Kaziranga. Rufous-necked Hornbill (VU) Aceros nipalensis Some very nice looks at this local bird in Eaglenest. Wreathed Hornbill Aceros undulatus Great Barbet Megalaima virens Lineated Barbet (H) Megalaima lineata Golden-throated Barbet Megalaima franklinii Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala Gray-capped Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus www.tropicalbirding.com 12

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Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus Crimson-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos cathpharius Darjeeling Woodpecker Dendrocopos darjellensis Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae Incredible, eye-level looks at about four birds with a mixed flock in the lower reaches of Eaglenest. Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Large Cuckoo-shrike Coracina macei Black-winged Cuckoo-shrike Coracina melaschistos Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus Gray-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach Gray-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer Hair-crested (Spangled) Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius Gold-billed Magpie Urocissa flavirostris Green Magpie Cissa chinensis Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda House Crow Corvus splendens Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax Sand Lark Calendrella raytal Plain Martin Riparia paludicola House-Martin Delichon nipalense Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis Coal Tit Periparus ater www.tropicalbirding.com 13

[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011

Rufous-vented Tit Periparus rubidiventris Great Tit Parus major Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus Yellow-cheeked Tit Parus spilonotus Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus Sultan Tit Melanochlora sultanea Awesome looks at a pair of this remarkable, huge tit keeping company with Beautiful Nuthatch near Sessi Camp in Eaglenest. Fire-capped Tit Cephalopyrus flammiceps A beautiful male responded very strongly to our Collared Owlet tape on the Mandala Road. Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata Very common in Eaglenest, we saw this stunning little warbler several times. Slaty-bellied Tesia Tesia olivea Great views of a small group of these skulking warblers on the lower slopes of Eaglenest. Gray-bellied Tesia (H) Tesia cyaniventer Brownish-flanked Bush-Warbler Cettia fortipes Yellowish-bellied Bush-Warbler Cettia acanthizoides A very responsive bird was seen near Sela Pass once we got below the snow, fog, and wind. Gray-sided Bush-Warbler Cettia brunnifrons Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps Broad-billed Warbler Tickellia hodgsoni Mountain Tailorbird Phyllergates cucullatus Black-throated Tit Aegithalos concinnus Black-browed (Rufous-fronted) Tit Aegithalos iouschistos White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis Beautiful Nuthatch (VU) Sitta formosa A definite tour highlight was great views of a pair of beautiful nuthatches singing, feeding, and generally going about their business. Seen on consecutive days in the same place. Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris Rusty-flanked Treecreeper Certhia nipalensis Brown-throated Treecreeper Certhia discolor Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii Striated Bulbul Pycnonotus striatus Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus Mountain Bulbul Ixos mcclellandii Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus Tickell's Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus affinis Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher www.tropicalbirding.com 14

[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011

Ashy-throated Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis Pale-rumped Warbler Phylloscopus chloronotus Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides Blyth's Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides Whistler's Warbler Seicercus whistleri Gray-hooded Warbler Seicercus xanthoschistos Gray-cheeked Warbler Seicercus poliogenys Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Hill Prinia Prinia atrogularis Fire-tailed Myzornis Myzornis pyrrhoura Seen very briefly twice in Eaglenest, but just enough for everyone to see. Black-throated Parrotbill Paradoxornis nipalensis We saw several of these charismatic little parrotbills with a large understory flock on our last morning from Sunderview Camp. Rufous-headed (White-breasted) Parrotbill Paradoxornis ruficeps Seen very well just as we were leaving Eaglenest while we were giving one last, desperate search for Bugun Liocichla. Rufous-headed Parrotbill was recently split several ways, with this form now called White-breasted Parrotbill. Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher strophiata Red-breasted (Taiga) Flycatcher Ficedula albicilla Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra Nice looks at a male of this uncommon flycatcher in Eaglenest. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni Ultramarine Flycatcher Ficedula superciliaris Sapphire Flycatcher Ficedula sapphira A beautiful male was seen in the old Sessni Camp as we took a break and awaited our lunch to arrive. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus Large Niltava Niltava grandis Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae Pale Blue-Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor Pygmy Blue-Flycatcher Muscicapella hodgsoni Red-flanked Bluetail Tarsiger cyanurus Very common this trip, we saw them well many times. Golden Bush-Robin Tarsiger chrysaeus A beautiful male was in streamside scrub on the lower reaches of the Mandala Road. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Hodgson's Redstart Phoenicurus hodgsoni White-throated Redstart Phoenicurus schisticeps Great views of this stunning redstart near the village of Mandala. www.tropicalbirding.com 15

[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011

Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis White-capped Redstart Chaimarrornis leucocephalus Plumbeous Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosa White-tailed Robin (H) Cinclidium leucurum Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus Green Cochoa Cochoa viridis Incredible scope views of a bird sitting on a completely exposed branch on the lower slopes of Eaglenest. We traded the use of our scope for news of the bird! It was a good deal all around, considering how infrequently this species is actually seen. Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata Gray Bushchat Saxicola ferreus Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush Monticola rufiventris Blue Whistling-Thrush Myophonus caeruleus White-collared Blackbird Turdus albocinctus Gray-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul Eurasian (Tibetan) Blackbird Turdus merula A rarity here, this species (often split as Tibetan Blackbird) has been seen each of the last two winters at Sela Pass, where we saw a group of three females and a male. Black-throated Thrush Turdus atrogularis Red-throated Thrush Turdus ruficollis We found a wonderful mixed flock containing many of both of the former Dark- throated Thrush complex. We even had males of both species in the scope at the same time as they fed along the roadside. White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus Striated Laughingthrush Garrulax striatus Gray-sided Laughingthrush (H) Garrulax caerulatus This always elusive laughingthrush was heard several times, but only glimpsed briefly. We heard it doing a perfect imitation of Large Hawk-Cuckoo as well. Bhutan Laughingthrush Garrulax imbricatus Blue-winged Laughingthrush (H) Garrulax squamatus Black-faced Laughingthrush Garrulax affinis Some very nice views below Sela Pass. Fortunately they were close enough to us that the fog didn’t matter. Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush Garrulax erythrocephalus Abbott's Babbler (H) Malacocincla abbotti Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis When we were struggling to see anything through the fog as we ascended Sela Pass, one of these guys came close for us and lifted our spirits. Coral-billed Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus ferruginosus Nice views of this rare and difficult-to-see scimitar babbler with a flock of barwings below Bomphu Camp. Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler Xiphirhynchus superciliaris We had fantastic looks at this outrageous-looking bird at the higher reaches of the Mandala Road. Also heard several times elsewhere. Long-billed Wren-Babbler Rimator malacoptilus www.tropicalbirding.com 16

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We had great looks at this super-skulker singing and feeding in dense scrub below Bomphu. Eyebrowed Wren-Babbler (H) Napothera epilepidota Pygmy Wren-Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler (NT) Spelaeornis caudatus We had nice looks at this lovely babbler below Bomphu. Bar-winged Wren-Babbler Spelaeornis troglodytoides Another highlight of the tour was incredible, point-blank views of a pair of these exquisite wren-babblers on the Mandala Road. Spotted Wren-Babbler Spelaeornis formosus We heard this species’ remarkable song at very close range, but only saw it fly across the road. Blackish-breasted Babbler (NT) Sphenocichla humei Nice views of pair below Bomphu. Also heard at a couple of other locales in Eaglenest. Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyris ruficeps Golden Babbler Stachyris chrysaea Gray-throated Babbler (H) Stachyris nigriceps Pin-striped Tit-Babbler Macronous gularis Silver-eared Mesia Leiothrix argentauris Himalayan Cutia Cutia nipalensis A very showy flock that we came across a few times kept us entertained as we searched in vain for Bugun Liocichla on our final morning at Eaglenest. Black-headed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius rufiventer Another rare Eastern Himalayan specialty, we had stunning views of a male. We also heard it several other times. White-browed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis Green Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius xanthochlorus Black-eared Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius melanotis Rusty-fronted Barwing Actinodura egertoni Hoary-throated Barwing Actinodura nipalensis Streak-throated Barwing Actinodura waldeni Chestnut-tailed Minla Minla strigula Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta Golden-breasted Fulvetta Alcippe chrysotis A characteristic bird of high-elevation bamboo in the eastern Himalayas, we had stunning views several times of this most-colorful of the fulvettas. Yellow-throated Fulvetta Alcippe cinerea Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps Ludlow's Fulvetta Alcippe ludlowi This range-restricted species replaces White-browed Fulvetta to the east, and is likewise fairly common. Beautiful Sibia Heterophasia pulchella Long-tailed Sibia Heterophasia picaoides White-naped Yuhina Yuhina bakeri www.tropicalbirding.com 17

[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011

Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis Rufous-vented Yuhina Yuhina occipitalis Black-chinned Yuhina Yuhina nigrimenta White-bellied Yuhina Yuhina zantholeuca Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa White-vented Myna Acridotheres grandis Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Asian Pied Starling Gracupica contra Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnia malabarica Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum melanoxanthum We twice had nice looks at this huge flowerpecker. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectum Gould's Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga ignicauda We saws three beautiful males together at a flowering tree below Sunderview Camp. Streaked Spiderhunter Arachnothera magna Rufous-breasted Accentor Prunella strophiata Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola White Wagtail Motacilla alba Oriental (Paddyfield) Pipit Anthus rufulus Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni Little Bunting Emberiza pusilla Crimson-browed Finch Pinicola subhimachala Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus (Himalayan) White-browed Rosefinch Carpodacus thura We saw a small flock of these intensely pink below Sela Pass. (Himalayan) Beautiful Rosefinch Carpodacus pulcherrimus A male was with the flock of White-browed Rosefinches below Sela Pass. Scarlet Finch Haematospiza sipahi Yellow-breasted Greenfinch Chloris spinoides Tibetan Serin thibetanus We were very lucky to have a flock of about twenty of these uncommon finches land in a tree right next to us on the Mandala Road, where we watched them feed on buds until we had had our fill. Brown Bullfinch Pyrrhula nipalensis www.tropicalbirding.com 18

[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011

Not always an easy bird to find, we saw them very well several times in Eaglenest, in flocks of up to 15 or more birds. Red-headed Bullfinch Pyrrhula erythrocephala Nice looks at a pair on the Mandala Road. Gray-headed Bullfinch Pyrrhula erythaca Gold-naped Finch Pyrrhoplectes epauletta Some very nice looks, first on the Mandala Road, then again at Eaglenest. White-winged Grosbeak Mycerobas carnipes Red Crossbill Loxia curvirostra Two juveniles were feeding on the ground underneath the new restaurant in Lama Camp one morning. Russet Sparrow Passer rutilans Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus

MAMMAL LIST

Capped Langur Trachyptithecus pileatus Seen right over our tents in Nameri Eco-camp. Assam Macaque Macaca assemensis Black Giant Squirrel Rotufa bicolor Hoary-bellied Squirrel Callosciurus pygerythrus Himalayan Striped Squirrel Tamiops mcclellandii Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel Dremomys lokriah Indian Gray (Common) Mongoose Herpestes edwardsii Nice views while we were birding in the fields behind Nameri Eco-camp. Barking Deer Muntiacus muintjak Good views of one standing on the track in Eaglenest. Wild Boar Sus scrofa We startled one taking a mud bath in the forested pond in Nameri. Indian Elephant Elephas maximus We watched one cooling itself off in the Jia Bhareli River during our rafting trip.

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